Renfe Monopolio.
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Monopoli like a lot of coastal southern towns is a labyrinth of narrow alleys and streets surrounded by a wider path that separates the sea from the city, the defenders of the city had a place to engage invaders from the sea with the ability to fall back into the maze of alleys and engage the attackers as they tried to navigate the twists and turns, blind alleys and hidden choke points.
Pictured here early one morning as I wandered the town is the main ring street of old Monopoli with the maze of city streets to the right and to the left the sheltered harbor for the fishermen of the city.
For me there is not a better way to experience an Italian town than through the ambiance of softly lit streets and the solitude of the early morning it provides a sharp contrast to the busy daylight hours filled with city life in full swing also enjoyable but in a less intimate manner.
I took this on Sept 20, 2016 with my D750 and Nikon 24-85 f3.5-4.5 Lens at 24mm 1/3 sec f/4 ISO 200 processed in LR, PS +Lumenzia, Topaz , and DXO
Disclaimer:
My style is a study of romantic realism as well as a work in progress
A view of Monopoli that excluding the modern lighting probably hasn’t changed much over the past 500 years or so when the city was part of the Amalfi and Venetian maritime empires when it wore the nickname of the “The City of Dens” due to the rugged coastline littered with small grottos.
Due to the rockiness of the coastline the beaches in the area are rather small affairs and very sheltered this shot was taken from the next beach up from the Cala Porto Bianca city beach and is called Punta Cala Porto Rosso a great spot to while away a sunny day but also a prime sunrise location if catching the first rays of the day is of interest.
The cities coat of arms consists of three white roses on a field of red, it was presented to it by Frederick II of Svevia to symbolize the bravery and blood shed of the populace during a siege and may also explain why its two closest beaches are called white and the other red.
I took this on Sept 20, 2016 with my D750 and Nikon 24-85 f3.5-4.5 Lens at 66mm 8s f/25 ISO 200 processed in LR, PS +Lumenzia, Topaz , and DXO
Disclaimer: My style is a study of romantic realism as well as a work in progress
Monopoli is at its heart is a city that loves the sea and the bounty it provides, most shots showing this usually center on the sheltered harbor near the fortress that guards the passageway into the town but for me sitting on the small cliff of Cala Porto Rosso this shot fully embodies this love.
As I was shooting the city in the early morning wandering from the center to the outer reaches I watched as cheerful men made their way to the small dories in the harbor rowing their way out to begin the mornings fish not knowing they would soon become a part of my favorite sunrise shot of the trip.
Monopoli is a town that should not be overlooked for an authentic experience it feels like your favorite pair of jeans, lived in, very comfortable, maybe a little ragged and should be on everyone’s list for a visit or as a hub to visit other places in the area if you travel to Puglia and has definitely earned a place on my Italian revisit list.
I took this on Sept 20, 2016 with my D750 and Nikon 24-85 f3.5-4.5 Lens at 66mm 1.6s f/29 ISO 200 processed in LR, PS +Lumenzia, Topaz , and DXO
Disclaimer: My style is a study of romantic realism as well as a work in progress
Sometime you are at the right place at the right time ready to shoot and you get an unexpected bonus like having a model to give scale to a shot, the cat or gatto as they are locally known just wandered out into my shot gave me a sleepy look up and down then continued on his way.
An orange tabby in the warm light of tungsten bulbs is not the best for subject contrast separation but this shot was about capturing the warmth of the light and was my favorite of the night, the warm glow was a comforting balm to a cool black night.
The city was founded by Greeks in 500 BC the name which means “One or Sole City” is a good fit as Monopoli is truly a treasure for those that are traveler versus tourists and it is a city that is good for your soul.
I took this on Sept 20, 2016 with my D750 and Nikon 24-85 f3.5-4.5 Lens at 24mm 2.5sec f/20 ISO 200 processed in LR, PS +Lumenzia, Topaz , and DXO
Disclaimer: My style is a study of romantic realism as well as a work in progress
This last scene of Monopoli shows life at its best in the town the relaxing period of the mid-morning when the sun is warm but not overly so painting the walls with a golden glow transforming an otherwise ordinary scene into shabby chic and making those from outside observing wishing they had this also as a regular part of their day.
Not every image you shoot will be a resounding success, those that you think will be liked are usually not and sometimes the ones you find least appealing win the most accolades and as much as I enjoy the end result it is like most wise ones have said in one form or another “It is not the destination but the journey”.
My favorite thing in every Italian village or town besides hearing the little kids speaking Italian is to catch the Nonna’s delivering the days news usually hanging from windows or balconies taking in the world as it travels by them with everyone deferring to their watchful eyes as they traverse the staked territory that they have claimed over the years, a true matriarchal marvel.
I took this on Sept 21, 2016 with my D750 and Nikon 24-85 f3.5-4.5 Lens at 48mm 1/1000s f/4,2 ISO 250 processed in LR, PS +Lumenzia, Topaz , and DXO
Disclaimer: My style is a study of romantic realism as well as a work in progress
Scendendo da Monopoli ad Egnazia, la strada fiancheggia la costa rocciosa, che spesso si apre in calette frequentate dai bagnanti. A Capitolo, si incontrano quelle che Google chiama "piscine romane" , in realtà antiche cave di pietra tenera.
After the destruction of Gnathia by the Ostrogoth king Totila in 545, its inhabitants fled to Monopoli, from which it derives its name as "only city". In the following centuries the area would be controlled by the Byzantines, Normans and Hohenstaufen, and was a starting point for naval Crusades expeditions, living in that period the peak of its splendor. Later it was a fief under Angevine and Aragonese feudal lords.
In 1484 the city came under Venetian control and saw an economic upswing as a seaport on the Adriatic Sea as a base between Bari and Brindisi, as well as through trading its own agricultural goods. It was frequently attacked by Muslim pirates in the following decades. These continuous threats forced Monopoli to build strong fortifications which allowed them in 1529 to resist against the Armada of Charles V for three months, forcing the Spaniards to abandon the siege. However, the next year, Monopoli passed under Spanish rule, but remained a free city.
Sitting on Puglia's Adriatic coast around 30km south of Bari, Monopoli is a lovely town for a day trip, possibly in combination with Polignano a Mare just up the coast, mixing a dip in the sea with a good lunch and a wander around the old town centre.
Like so many towns on the Adriatic, Monopoli's history has been thoroughly influenced by its east-facing position and its fortified sea-front walls and castle tell many a story.