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Shot I did for a thumbnail for my Raspberry Pi Pico review. Overhead strip LED light (battery powered) and a focus stacked image (9 exposures) from my Nikon D750 with 60mm f/2.8 lens.
I bought Canon's remote switch (RS-60E3) last year, but it's lost. For shooting July 4th fireworks, I need a remote release switch. Instead of buying the same stuff again, I decided to build one by myself.
The design is simple for now. It has just 2 buttons, 1 toggle switch, and a 2.5mm jack.
I left some extra space in the case. This is for microcontrollers that I'm planning to install for time-lapse shooting. Right now, I just don't have enough time to do this :-(
Using a pair of XBees to send packets back and forth between my laptop and an ARM microcontroller while a logic analyzer keeps tabs on the process.
Vintage Motorola MC68705 8-bit microcontroller.
Confusing the on-chip A/D converter with a flashlight.
This light sensitivity is not intended. Many ICs would react to light
and thus they are encapsulated in black plastic.
The uC even gets stuck by erratic currents caused by the flashlight
and needs a reset.
It is vintage NMOS technology, it draws 100mA
supply current for doing nothing! (power-saving CMOS
technology already existed these times,
but it could not reach the MHz speed range yet).
Computer controlled shutter for the Automatic 100 series packfilm cameras with manual exposure control. See www.chemie.unibas.ch/~holder/shutterpic/index.html
Arduino UNO does PWM (pulse width modulation) – 16mm scale.
This test board has a UNO configured to provide 6 PWM servo outputs as a microcontroller for points (turnouts) and/or signals on my 16mm scale narrow gauge exhibit. Two vero strip boards incorporate the required crossovers to provide Futaba/Hitec/etc format servo pinouts on the UNO’s digital output sockets.
Each of the UNO’s analogue inputs is held at intermediate potential by a pair of 1 Kohm resistors. The remote commander has a 20 foot wander lead and its four momentary push buttons short out one or other 1 Kohm resistor to take the analogue input to LOW or HIGH potential as a tri-state switch. The UNO picks up the change in potential and moves the corresponding servo through the number of degrees pre-programmed in the sketch, via the selected PWM output.
This basic setup will enable the option of automated signal and point control on the 16mm scale exhibition layout by linking the UNO's analogue inputs to other sensors.
Continued from the other day, some of the initial circuit has changed, and now includes a built-in sound trigger. Except that the sound triggering is giving me fits... that part of the circuit is analog, and the logic, of course, is digital. Apparently, the microcontroller and I have differing views of what "rising edge" means, and the trigger causes the flash interrupt well before it's supposed to. So far, I've not been able to work it out.
I'm sure I will, though. The problem is probably in my code, with a second choice being the analog interface into the digital logic section. Anyway, this is the most complicated circuit/microcontroller code project I've ever worked on, and I've had surprisingly few issues with it, so far...
Anyway, since I don't have the photos I was building this to help capture, here's a description of what it does, when I think about it, blissfully absent from the hard reality... notes above describe the various parts.
Prefocus and compose the shot on the unsuspecting firework. Turn on the device, wait for the "ready" indicator light. Push the little yellow button. The shutter interface opens the shutter in bulb mode. Half a second later, the igniter circuit activates, cranking 4 amps through the rocket motor igniter. Since 2 amps should "guarantee" ignition, that should be good. Once the igniter circuit goes hot, the sound trigger starts listening for the boom. When it hears the boom, it signals the microcontroller to cut power to the igniter, pop the flash, and close the shutter on the camera. Then it recycles, waiting for the next one. Except, of course, it doesn't... it doesn't do that, at all.
Unfortunately, I've already begun to get distracted... it occurred to me today that I could probably make a cheap-o 16-24 channel logic analyzer with an Atmega16. That's very appealing to me, because sometimes an analog scope isn't enough. It's painful to work out chip-to-chip communications with a 2-channel scope. I may switch over and work on that for the rest of the night. Of course, I'll have to implement a USB interface, and write a Windows app to actually use it, so there's like a zero percent chance I'll have it done this weekend. Which means that by next weekend, I'll be on to something else...
update!!! Live fire trial run tomorrow!!! Fixed both known issues (both were code - one was a misread register name, the other was a lack of understanding of how code optimization can jeopardize variables)!!!
An Atmel microcontroller, the ATmega8, on a little protoyping module, plugged into a solderless breadboard. This is the controller that I've been using for a number of small projects, including a persistence-of-vision wand and an LED dot-matrix display. The CPU runs at 16MHz and is programmed in either assembler or C.
I built a PC Meter which display CPU and Memory usage for an attached computer. It's driven by an Arduino microcontroller, which is fed the stats by a C#.Net application I developed. More information, source code, and a video demonstration can be found on the project web page here:
This is a microcontroller-powered temperature controller for a fridge I built out of fabricated necessity and spare parts last weekend.
Backstory: We replaced our ancient 2nd fridge with a big new upright freezer, which left our little chest freezer empty. Sometimes we do need the extra fridge space though during harvest season at the farm, so I figured I could just turn the temperature up on that old chest freezer and turn it into a fridge. Nope. Highest it goes is -4C. OK. Time for some gratuitous technology. See the notes.
Demonstration video: www.youtube.com/watch?v=a_xyQyoIves
Using the polyphonic sound code from my electronic Dry Bones sprites along with the structural functionality of my illuminated mosaic Link portrait, I’ve combined both concepts. In this new portrait, I use a grid of flat LED panels fastened on to the rear door, with a 16 Ohm speaker attached as well. Controlling the whole circuit is a homemade circuit board with an Atmel ATmega328P as the central brain, containing an Arduino code for playing the music and activating the lights. The biggest technological feat for this project is how I successfully managed to control the 12V LED panels through a small 5.5V AVR, through the help of transistors.
In layman’s terms, a small microcontroller like the ATmega328 is only capable of controlling circuits between 3-5.5V; anything else will burn out the chip. By using transistors attached to the digital outputs of the ATmega, I can control much larger loads, with the overall 12V input power being directed into the circuit via a voltage regulator. This new method allows me to control larger lights than simple LEDs, which opens new doors for potentially building more LEGO traffic lights and whatnot.
The physical LEGO portion was rather straightforward and didn’t have a lot of flaws. Towards the end of the construction, I had to slightly rebuild the project to use a small tactile button to activate the circuit. Originally I had a large momentary pushbutton installed near the bottom of the rear door: the button required too much pressure to push, which caused the structure to wobble and almost fall over when pressed.
Creating the circuit board and wiring the Arduino code was also rather simple, since I used the same functionality of the Dry Bones model. Unfortunately, when I was testing out the method of using transistors for controlling the LED panels, I accidentally loaded the 12V power into my Arduino Uno’s 5.5V input — thus frying it. After purchasing a new Arduino, I successfully did some breadboard experiments with TIP120 transistors to control the LED panels.
The LEGO structure opens like a book, and on the rear door are eight white SMD LED panels connected in parallel to three digital output pins of the ATmega — cathode to cathode, with the red positive wires being channeled into the positive terminal of the 12V power supply. For sound output, I created some makeshift speaker holes on the top right orange brick sprite: this was achieved by placing LEGO grille tiles over headlight pieces.
The results of a DIY project writing custom code for a Node MCU micro-controller to control addressable LEDs.
2 drop collision into Xanthan gum mix, blue ink and a little Dettol kitchen cleaner.
The blue/green in the rise is from gels on the 2 flashes behind the glass.
100% uncropped and unedited.
2:1 using Canon 7D and 100mm f/2.8L macro with 68mm of extension tubes (full kenko set).
Computer controlled shutter for the Automatic 100 series packfilm cameras with manual exposure control. See www.chemie.unibas.ch/~holder/shutterpic/index.html
I built a PC Meter which display CPU and Memory usage for an attached computer. It's driven by an Arduino microcontroller, which is fed the stats by a C#.Net application I developed. More information, source code, and a video demonstration can be found on the project web page here:
Photo taken to accompany short article on working with AVR microcontrollers, and making minimalist target boards for programming them.
Arduino UNO does PWM (pulse width modulation) – 16mm scale.
This test board has a UNO configured to provide 6 PWM servo outputs as a microcontroller for points (turnouts) and/or signals on my 16mm scale narrow gauge exhibit. Two vero strip boards incorporate the required crossovers to provide Futaba/Hitec/etc format servo pinouts on the UNO’s digital output sockets.
Each of the UNO’s analogue inputs is held at intermediate potential by a pair of 1 Kohm resistors. The remote commander has a 20 foot wander lead and its four momentary push buttons short out one or other 1 Kohm resistor to take the analogue input to LOW or HIGH potential as a tri-state switch. The UNO picks up the change in potential and moves the corresponding servo through the number of degrees pre-programmed in the sketch, via the selected PWM output.
This basic setup will enable the option of automated signal and point control on the 16mm scale exhibition layout by linking the UNO's analogue inputs to other sensors.
Using Digispark ATTINY85 USB board, programmed Zoom Mute and Video toggle keystrokes to the buttons (guitar pedal switches).
In the past the setup of this laser signal was always a pain. This adjustement need to be very exactly to have the max reflected signal on the microcontroller. Now the new setup make this adjustements simply. I can finetune the laser into all direction, first very coarse and then very precise into the X and Y direction. As you can see there are a lot of small parts. But this new setup give me the assurance to have always the max detection signal. This cost me 5 days of heavy works to make all this very small parts! once for the left side and once for the right side. The IR laser works at 840 nm and is pulsed 20us on and 20us off. The difference between the ambient light and the IR laserlight is processed into the AVR controller ATtiny45 into a separeted macro lens the AF60/2.8Dmicro from Nikkor. The information go to the central CPLD controller to make the decision to take a photo in focus.
I've assembled a few of the new boards so far - it's been a while, I'm a little out of practice, but these are looking good after some minor rework.
The other boards are waiting for now, I didn't notice that I was missing a part for the main quad pcb (the expensive gyro, I apparently only ordered a small qty and used them all in other boards)
The new scrap of veroboard is a simple interface to drive an LED from Pin 21 of the PIC microcontroller to indicate optimum audio input level.
Homemade using an Addressable RGB LED Light Strip and Microcontroller Board
See my YouTube video showing all of my current Light Painting Tools and how they work.
www.youtube.com/user/michaelrross1
You can find get to the detailed tutorial information and videos to make this tool yourself on my personal website under the new Tutorial Blog at:
A state-of-the-80s bootloader programmer for the Motorola 68705 microcontroller.
The uC (left) feeds itself with the content of an EPROM (right)
Fun to build this in 2010.
Programming runs with 20 Bytes per second, so it takes three minutes
to toast the wafer.
Ruined by the Flames of Excess, 2011, Wood, steel rod, epoxy clay and feathers.
A Phantom Torso, 2011, Silkscreen printed polystyrene, expanding foam, & microcontroller with servo.
Photo: Ola O Smit
Photo taken to accompany short article on working with AVR microcontrollers, and making minimalist target boards for programming them.
Photo taken to accompany short article on working with AVR microcontrollers, and making minimalist target boards for programming them.
Driving a stepper motor that was salvaged from an old Epson ink-jet printer with an Allegro A3982 chip. It's basically the same design as the MIT Machines That Make driver PCB: makeyourbot.org/a3982-1-0