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Leica MP
Leica Summicron 35mm f/2 IV "King of Bokeh"
Kodak Portra 160
Bellini Foto C-41
Scan from negative film
Hasselblad 500 C/M
Carl Zeiss Distagon 50mm f/4 C T*
Kodak Ektar 100
Bellini Foto C-41
Scan from negative film
Leica MP
Leica Summicron 35mm f/2 IV "King of Bokeh"
Kodak Ektar 100
Bellini Foto C-41
Scan from negative film
Pentax K1000
SMC-K 55mm f/1.8
Ilford HP5+
Shot @ 320 ISO
Dev: Ilfosol 3 1+9 5 min.
September 2020
Honeysuckle Hideout - Elkhart, IN
Leica MP
Leica Summicron 35mm f/2 IV "King of Bokeh"
Kodak Portra 400
Bellini Foto C-41
Scan from negative film
Leica MP
Leica Summicron 35mm f/2 IV "King of Bokeh"
400 Hundred Film
Bellini Foto C-41
Scan from negative film
Leica MP
Leica Summicron 35mm f/2 IV "King of Bokeh"
Kodak Portra 400
Bellini Foto C-41
Scan from negative film
Hasselblad 500 C/M
Carl Zeiss Distagon 50mm f/4 C T*
Fomapan 400
Microphen 1+0
10 min 20°C
Scan from negative film
A higher resolution of the previous shot, but scanned in 6x9 format as my scanner is limited only to medium format aspect. At 2400DPI the tones are much smoother and lighting captured much more subtle.
Linhof Technika IV, Nikon - W 180mm F5.6, Home development, HC110, Dilution B(1+7), 4 1/2 minutes, Ilford Rapidspeed fixer, 6 minutes, 15D lens twist, F5.6, 1/125th
Rudolph Tegner (1873-1950), Danish sculptor
Camera: Zeiss Super Ikonta 531/16
Lens: Novar-Anastigmat 75mm f:3.5 (yellow filter)
Exposure: 1/500 @ F/8 (Gossen Profisix sbc)
Film: Fomapan 200 Creative home developed in D-76 1+1
Leica MP
Leica Summicron 35mm f/2 IV "King of Bokeh"
Kodak Color Plus 200
Bellini Foto C-41
Scan from negative film
If you're interested in E-6 home development, it's almost certain that you've already done C-41 at home. If not, have a look at this tutorial: much of the process is the same, so I'm just going to run through the differences compared to C-41 development here.
There are some notes attached to the image, so don't miss out on those.
I use the Tetenal Colortec E-6 (5 litre) box, a three-bath kit (really four, as you need to use the stabilizer too – hence the four bottles above in the image). Adapt as you see fit for the kit you use, if it's a different one.
Main difference compared to C-41: it's crucial that you keep the water bath at 38 degrees C., give or take 0.3 degrees, during the entire process – at least during the two developer stages and the bleach fix.
You accomplish this by constantly monitoring the water bath: add warm water when the temperature drops off too much.
Make sure to keep the Paterson tank submerged in the water bath for the duration of the process, except of course when you agitate – and you will agitate quite a lot.
The entire process, once you've started the first stage, takes 28 minutes and 15 seconds. This includes:
1. First developer: 6.15
2. Water rinse, in 38 degrees C.: 2.30
3. Colour developer: 6
4. Water rinse, in 38 degrees C.: 2.30
5. Bleach fix: 6
6. Water rinse, in 38 degrees C.: 4
7. Stabilizer: 1
= 28 minutes and 15 seconds
As my timer counts DOWN, I have it set at 28.15, and I watch these times for the seven steps mentioned above (reverse this if your timer counts up):
28.15: add FIRST DEVELOPER
22: pour FIRST DEVELOPER into a jug, start WATER RINSE
19.30: empty water, add COLOUR DEVELOPER
13.30: pour COLOUR DEVELOPER into a jug, start WATER RINSE
11: empty water, add BLEACH FIX
5: pour BLEACH FIX into a jug, start WATER RINSE
1: empty water, add STABILIZER
0: done!
There's a lot more agitation involved in E-6 compared to C-41. Here's the gist of it:
* In stages 1, 3 and 5, agitate for the first fifteen seconds and then agitate (four upside-downs) every fifteen seconds after that for the duration of that stage.
There's really not that much more to it. It does take more time and slightly more effort compared to C-41, but if I can do it – so can you. Just make sure that you have an undisturbed half hour in which to complete the work, and make sure that the water bath is at a constant 38 degrees. And the 38 degrees goes for the Paterson tank and for the water rinse stages too – make sure to rinse with running water of approx. the same temperature, or the tank will cool off too much!
I may add to this rather fragmentary description at a later stage, but please add insights and caveats in the comments if you feel like it.
Leica MP
Leica Summicron 35mm f/2 IV "King of Bokeh"
Kodak Ektar 100
Bellini Foto C-41
Scan from negative film
Hasselblad 500 C/M
Carl Zeiss Distagon 50mm f/4 C T*
Kodak T-Max 100
Studional 1+30
10 min 20°C
Scan from negative film
Hasselblad 500 C/M
Carl Zeiss Distagon 50mm f/4 C T*
Fuji Pro 160 NS
Tetenal Colortec C-41
Scan from negative film
Hasselblad 500 C/M
Carl Zeiss Distagon 50mm f/4 C T*
Kodak Tri-X 400
Kodak HC-110 Dil B (1+31)
7 min 30 sec 20°C
Scan from negative film
Olympus µ[mju:] Panorama
Fujifilm Neopan ACROS 100
On tumblr: theatreofthemundane.tumblr.com
On Instagram: lemonhats
Minolta XD-s, Rokkor 50, Rollei IR400, Haida 720 filter.
Adonal 1+50.
Middle summer, midday. Aperture priority.
Leica MP
Leica Summicron 35mm f/2 IV "King of Bokeh"
Kodak Gold 200
Bellini Foto C-41
Scan from negative film