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Timmins Home Hardware Building Center on Riverside Drive in the City of Timmins Northern Ontario Canada
Copyright Robert W. Dickinson. Unauthorized use of this image without my express permission is a violation of copyright law.
Lovely Janelle at the Sexy Power Tools photoshoot in my garage on 10/5/19. Very fun shoot. Janelle did her own hair and makeup.
The main light was a DigiBee800 camera left, fired into a small, gridded Chimera strip bank, set to about 1/2 power. The fill light was a DigiBee800 camera right, fired into a medium, gridded Chimera strip bank, set four stops dimmer than the main light. The hair light was a Canon 550EX atop my water heater fired at 1/128 power, and the flash head zoom setting was at 70mm. All lights were triggered with Pocket Wizards.
Canon 6D Mark II and Canon EF 35mm f2.0 IS USM lens. ISO 200, f5.6 at 1/125 second.
mitre joint that I am happy with in straight grain quarter sawn douglas fir, part of a picture frame I made using hand tools.
The tools are organized and arranged for quick access by the Carpenter. Dark in the barn where this is, I used a 50mm f1.8 but still had a little grain.
Kline Creek Farm, an 1890's Working Farm.
This is after i've flattened the top of the bench and used my brace and bit to bore holes for the tennon's i would cut in the legs. it also shows the work site in relation to our camp ground.
#whatwoulddickproennekedo
Title / Titre :
A girl with a sledgehammer /
Une jeune fille tient une masse
Creator(s) / Créateur(s) : R.G. Edwards
Date(s) : 1942-1943
Reference No. / Numéro de référence : ITEM 3613768
central.bac-lac.gc.ca/.redirect?app=fonandcol&id=3613...
Location / Lieu : Unknown / Inconnu
Credit / Mention de source :
R.G. Edwards Collection. Library and Archives Canada, e003895283 /
Collection R.G. Edwards. Bibliothèque et Archives Canada, e003895283
Carving Axe. Robin Wood Edition.
Overall length: 365mm (14.3")
Blade length: 126mm (5")
Head height: 135mm (5.3")
Head weight: 500 grams (1.1 lbs)
Blade hardness: HRC 59.
Bohler K460 steel for the edge.
Elm handle. Cow hide leather sheath.
Favorite 10,11,12 numbers on watch dial, 10 x macro. Technique :(I don't like photo stacking, even f stop with numbers over 22 can do the job, but rarely obvious thing wins attention if there is no illusion, - blur is what we pay for). Click on the 🌟 ^_ , "as the time waits for nobody" : )
100% handmade traditional wooden puzzle.
Comprising of 6 identical pieces.
Tropical hardwood in beeswax finish.
Size: 18mm x 18mm x 65mm (approx.)
The goal was to do a project that did not involve my iMac (I guess until right now..): build a chair! This is a traditional Chinese / Japanese design, or as at least as close as I could get by studying the one I already have, and consulting with a colleague who made one many years ago in China (thanks Zhong-Min!). Fig. 1 is the final result (plus Veronica the cat) and Fig. 2 is my inital concept (argh more iMac). This was my first woodworking project. I used scrap pine boards, which felt like less pressure. I'll try nice hardwoods next time.
I had three rules:
1. No power tools.
2. No nails or glue.
3. No sandpaper or paint.
The idea behind Rule #1 was to spend some 'quality time' with the wood, using only hand tools, many of them Japanese. This meant spending _much_ quality time learning how to sharpen the blades! But boy did they end up sharp...
The idea behind Rule #2 was to learn how to make mortise and tenon joints. I ended up making twelve pegged, blind (i.e. 'stub' or 'stopped') tenon joints. The trick here was that every joint was at a 97 degree angle. This required some iMac-sketching and head-scratching (Fig. 3). For the 8 rail joints, I angled the mortise, and for the 4 leg-seat joints I angled the tenon, in both the x and y directions (Fig. 4). In doing the latter I screwed up some angles, and hence had to violate Rule #2. A sort of chain reaction of bad angles necessitated a reworking of all 12 joints, so that they no longer fit perfectly and required some wood glue. Luckily, making the 1/8" hardwood pegs was satisfying and successful!
Rule #3 was intended to leave the wood surface feeling 'like wood'. I read a great furniture artisan book from the SF Library (can't remember the title) that advocated the use of a scraper to take off thin, single shavings from the surface, leaving a superior finish to sandpaper, which creates hundreds of miniature cuts. Pretty neat. A combination of blue and green stains ended up quite vivid.
Slow work...but all in all very enjoyable!
The tools (Fig. 5)...Japanese and Western mortise gauges. Gimlets for hand-drilling holes. Japanese saw, chisel, and mortise chisel. Drawknife for shaping the curved seat. Arkansas stone and Japanese water stone for sharpening. Scraper. Mallet. Combination square. Old plane that didn't work so great. Band clamp.
Tool sources and info:
Alameda Antique Faire
Japan Woodworker (Alameda)
Hida Tool (Berkeley)
Cliff's Variety (San Francisco)
Books and Bookshelves [stains and inspiration] (San Francisco)
Robert Larson Hand Tools (San Francisco)
"Japanese Woodworking Tools" by Toshio Odate
"Hand Tools" and "Planes and Chisels" from the "Fine Woodworking on..." Series
"Woodworking" by Jackson, Day, and Jennings
"HOME BUILDING AND WOODWORKING IN COLONIAL AMERICA" by C KEITH WILBUR