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Miles and I had a cheery trip to the Secret Nuclear Bunker at Hack Green a couple of weeks ago. Originally a Starfish site in the Second World War to decoy attacks from Crewe, then a radar site it became the site of an R6 hardened Regional Seat of Government Bunker. In time of nuclear war from the 1960's to the 1990's, the county of Chester would have been governed from this place. Situated in countryside south west of Nantwich, it was connected to a hardened communication network with other RGHQ's and central government. Many people would have lived and worked in the semi buried bunker.
Abandonned in 1992 as a dividend of the end of the Cold War it was opened in 1998 as a tourist attraction and house a large collection of Cold War relics and a number of deactivated nuclear weapons.
Hackness, a small village on the edge of the North Yorks Moors, captured in sunshine - a relief from the winter snow.
Textures by Pareeerica.
Angi Viper brings the Cassie Hack, the Slasher Slayer to life at Long Beach Comic-Con.
You can see more of Angi's wonderful cosplay on her facebook page at: www.facebook.com/AngiViper
And on Twitter at: twitter.com/AngiViper
This past weekend, I picked up a Fuji Instax instant film camera and had a blast taking it to parties. There were a few things I've seen that attracted me to this camera. One of them was the incredibly cool instax windows shots by slightlynorth (I'm still experimenting with the concept...nothing too exciting to show yet). Another was the clever hack by the good reverend ogalthorpe to enable off-camera flash.
I sat down last night to do ogalthorpe's hack and got to the point where I needed to saw the "lens" off of the optical trigger. The saw was down in storage and I am eternally lazy, so I started thinking about other ways to hack the camera. I got the idea of trying to install an honest sync port in the thing...something I could plug a pocket wizard in to without the use of the optical trigger. I had an extra mini jack lying around from a previous project, so I started trying to take the camera apart to see if I couldn't find some place to install the thing...why not? I mean I've had the thing for over 48 hours...the novelty has surely worn off by now. ;)
Opening the Instax was a bit of a pain in the ass. I couldn't find any instructions for taking the thing apart on the Internets, so I just had to kinda wing it. I did end up breaking a tab in the process, but nothing a little super glue (or gaffer's tape) can't fix.
After I got the thing open, I was able to find the flash triggering circuit and just barely enough room to accommodate my mini-jack. I soldered an optoisolater across the points to insulate the camera from any crazy sync voltages (just to be safe) and then I drilled a hole in the bottom and installed the mini-jack.
The end result is a fully working flash sync-port on the Instax. :D
The built-in flash still works normally and you still have to cover it with some gaffer's tape if you don't want to use it in the shot. This is my first test shot last night. Exposure issues aside, you can see that both the built in flash and the speedlight I'm holding in my hand are going off. The speedlight is triggered by the pocket wizard connected to the instax.
You can see a shot of the solder points here.
One of the easiest little hacks imaginable!
These started off as a 4-pack of fuzzy ponytail scrunchies from the DollarTree store.
Here's the sort of thing I mean:
www.pinterest.com/pin/301459768815570205/
All I had to do was to stitch one end closed.
They make a cute hat for a doll with hair, or a fun wig for a lock-less lady.
Oh yeah - a super cheap hack, too, at just 25¢ per! :-D
I was bugged by the fully-automatic controls of the Instax. Trying out a Fuji Instax 200 with the guts and lens removed. It's fully manual : you put the film in, cover the light seals with electrical tape. To take a photo, you either cover and uncover the pinhole lens, or use the shutter from the Seagull 6x6 TLR lens. The advantage of the Seagull is that it has an adjustable aperture from f/3.5-22, with speeds from 1/300, 1/125, 1/60, 1/30, 1/15, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, 1" and Bulb. The pinhole [Loreo "Lens in a Cap"] has apertures of f/5.6-f/64.
The first shot was taken at f/5.6, a quick guess of exposure by flicking the tape on and off -- it was around 1:00PM, so quite bright. The second was at f/5.6, 1/2 second approximation without light meters or anything -- I just guessed, covering the lens opening with my finger.
The lens gets really sharp at f/64.
I need to find a reliable shutter cocking mechanism for the Segull lens, as I currently only use that during night time in a dark enviroment -- I have to take the lens off the body in order to cock it.
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The first is blue because of daylight lighting.
The second is red because of incandescent lighting.
This is one of my IKEA hacks. I purchased the Malm headboard shelf with roll out night stands. It is designed to be used with the Malm bed frame.I turned it the opposite of how it is designed to be used and use my own bed frame.
Although I am usually very happy with my IKEA products, I was not happy with the original design of this product. The wheels were not large enough to ensure the unit could clear the carpet making it unusable in my carpeted bedroom. To remedy the problem, I added larger casters ($20.00 US for 8 casters) to the roll out unit so it now clears the carpet.
I needed to remedy the problem of the roll-out with its added height. It would no longer fit under the headboard shelf. I chose to add 8 inch Capita legs to the headboard. This required adding a 1” x 3” solid birch piece to bottom of headboard for a solid material to screw the legs into. I used wood glue and nails to attach the birch. After drying, I attached 4 Capita legs - 3 on the bottom of the headboard, and one on the middle support section that is perpendicular to the headboard. Adding the solid birch is essential if you add legs. Screws will not hold in the Malm material because it is not dense enough and your legs will not be stable.
If you don’t want to raise the height of your headboard shelf any more than to clear the roll-out, choose the correct size of solid birch to add the needed height and your roll-in should fit fine. I added legs for my own reasons but they are not required.
One other issue with the design is that the roll-out is difficult to grab to pull out especially if there is any weight on it. I’d add handles.
++++ WARNING: HIGH VOLTAGE INSIDE .... TRY THIS MOD ONLY; IF YOU KNOW THE RISKS +++
Bare-bulb flash is the future, and the modification is quite easy. You only need a guitar slide, some SUGRU and a screwdriver ....!
The advantage is, that, after the hack, your speedlight emits light just like a studio flash and works perfectly together even with light modifiers like PAR reflectors and so on.
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More details:
fotopraxis.wordpress.com/2012/10/18/news-bare-bulb-flash-...
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For more strobist and Photoshop stuff visit
Have fun!
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Westbound Main Line local Train #1215 passes over a beautifully storm-lit Upper Hack drawbridge. In the foreground the remnants of the causeway that once carries the Erie Railroad's New York & Greenwood Lake Division hides in the shadows.
Before NJ Transit service was terminated on the old NY&GL (then known as the Boonton Line) it was at one point possible to frame three trains at the same time on the Boonton, Main and Bergen lines along with two drawbridges.
NJT 1215 @ Upper Hack Drawbridge, Secaucus, NJ
NJTr ALP45-DP 4530
I noticed these three birds occasionally hacking away at the sea ice and wondered why. What is hiding in sea ice that is attractive enough for birds to want to spend a considerable amount of time standing around in the freezing cold ? I was also attracted to the strange mix of bluish, greenish and yellowish colours in this otherwise barren winter landscape.
Here are some of my favourite Flickr "hacks" (they're toys really) that make photopages work much better. Hover your mouse over the image to see the notes and links (bold text) to the hacks. To use most of them you must first install the Firefox browser (click here) and then GreaseMonkey (click here). There's a group dedicated to them here. I add new hacks all the time, check below for details. Also, if any of you are budding Admins or moderators I have a group that might interest you called Admin Help that, amongst other things explains how to use hacks to run a group.
Great discarded collection of abandoned vehicles on a large farm near Romsey, Victoria, Australia
Amongst all of the mess appears to be a Ford XW or XY wagon (top left), a HD or HR Holden (underneath), possibly a Holden ute (alongside), a mid 1940's Nash or Vanguard (right) and a selection of Holden HQ - HZ doors (front right).
Many thanks to 'Couldn't Call It Unexpected' and '54 Ford Customline' for their help trying to identify these vehicles and associated parts.
For folks who don't feel like building a whole pinhole camera from scratch... it's easy to take apart one of these focus-free plastic cheapies and convert to pinhole use. That way you can get 35mm images with the standard framing & spacing so that any minilab can develop them.
I posted another version of this idea before... but this shows the more common kind of plastic camera, that has a little lens-guard operated by the tab below it. I see literally baskets of these for sale at most thrift stores--the one in back with the swooshy grips seems especially common. I've made quite a few pinhole cameras out of that kind. (Note the 80 cent price-- about all it's worth as a regular camera.)
I've hot-glued some plywood on the bottom here, with a 1/4-20 nut epoxied into a hole to make a tripod socket. The plywood also adds a stable base you can steady against doors, tables, etc. during exposures of a few seconds.
[EDIT: Sample shots from the Vivitar pinhole here, and from my earlier plastic-trashcam conversion here.]
[Another edit, May 2008: I've now blogged all the details on how to hack one of these cheapie trashcams and how to make & measure the pinhole itself.]
Evoking the foggy atmosphere for a wintry evening and the yellow light created by the gas-fired lamps, Return from the Matinée, Piccadilly Circus belongs to a group of paintings, three of which were exhibited at the Royal Academy that year. In a re-run of the RA show, The Studio called them “three remarkable tone and colour studies of London at night.” Hacker (1858 - 1919) was well established by the time he produced these works. He had trained at the Royal Academy schools for four years, prior to a period of study at Bonnat’s atelier in Paris and further travels on the continent. He commenced exhibiting at the Royal Academy in 1878 Romantic and Symbolist-inspired compositions and he was also much sought after as a society portraitist. Hacker was invited to exhibit at the first NEAC show of 1886, was elected as an Associate of the Royal Academy in 1894 and became a full Academician in 1910.
[Oil on canvas, 50.8 x 61 cm]
gandalfsgallery.blogspot.com/2012/02/arthur-hacker-return...