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Gwadar is located on the southwestern coast of Pakistan, close to the Strait of Hormuz on the Persian Gulf. More than 13 million bbl/d of oil pass through the Strait. It is strategically located between three increasingly important regions: the oil-rich Middle East, heavily populated South Asia and the economically emerging and resource-laden region of Central Asia. The Gwadar Port is expected to generate billions of dollars in revenues and create at least two million jobs.[2] In 2007, the government of Pakistan handed over port operations to PSA Singapore for 25 years, and gave it the status of a Tax Free Port for the following 40 years. There is also money invested into the port by the People's Republic of China. The strategic PRC plan to be engaged in many places along oil and gas roads is evident.[3]
The Makran region surrounding Gwadar was occupied by an ancient Bronze age people which settled in the few oases. It later became the Gedrosia region of the Achaemenid Persian empire. It is believed to have been conquered by the founder of the Persian empire, Cyrus the Great. The capital of the satrapy of Gedrosia was Pura, which is thought to have been located near the modern Bampûr, in Iranian Balochistan. During the homeward march of Alexander the Great, his admiral, Nearchus, led a fleet along the modern-day Makran coast and recorded that the area was dry, mountainous, and inhabited by the Ichthyophagoi (or "fish eaters"), an Greek rendering of the ancient Persian phrase "Mahi khoran" (which has itself become the modern word "Makran"). [4] After the collapse of Alexander's empire the area was ruled by Seleucus Nicator, one of Alexander’s generals. The region then came under "local rule" around about 303 BC.
The region remained on the sidelines of history for a millennium, until the Arab-Muslim army of Muhammad bin Qasim captured the town of Gwadar in AD 711 and over the intervening (and nearly equivalent) amount of time the area was contested by various powers, including the Mughals (from the east) and the Safavids (from the west). Portuguese explorers captured and sacked Gwadar in the late 16th century and this was then followed by almost two centuries of local rule by the various Balochi tribes. The city was visited by Ottoman Admiral Sidi Ali Reis in 1550s and mentioned in his book Mirat ul Memalik (The Mirror of Countries), 1557 CE [5]. According to Sidi Ali Reis, the inhabitants of Gwadar were Baloch and their chief was Malik Jelaleddin, son of Malik Dinar. In 1783, the Khan of Kalat granted suzerainty over Gwadar to Taimur Sultan, the defeated ruler of Muscat. [6] When the Sultan subsequently retook Muscat, he was to continue his rule in Gwadar by appointing a Wali (or "governor"). This Wali was then ordered to subjugate the nearby coastal town of Chah Bahar (in modern-day Iran), which ... The Gwadari fort was built during Omani rule, whilst telegraph lines were later extended into the town courtesy of HRM of the British.
In 1958, the Gwadar enclave was transferred to Pakistan. It was then made part of the Balochistan province In 2002, the Gwadar Port project (of building a large, deep-sea port) was begun in the town. The government of Pakistan intends to develop the entire area in order to reduce its reliance in shipping on the port of Karachi. In addition to expanding port facilities, the Project aims to build industrial complexes in the area and to connect the town via a modern highway to the rest of Pakistan. By the end of 2004 the first phase had been completed.
[edit] Culture
Gwadar's location and history have given it a unique blend of cultures. The Arabic influence upon Gwadar is strong as a consequence of the Omani era and the close proximity of other Arab-majority regions. The legacy of the Omani slave trade is observed in the population by the presence of residents which can trace their descent from the African slaves who were trafficked through the town (en route to destinations in the Muslim Far East. The area also has a remarkable religious diversity, being home to not only Sunni muslims, but also to groups of Christians, Hindus, Parsis, and various minorities such as the Qadianis.
Very few people have seen the Hingol National Park in the Balochistan province of Pakistan. Its nearest approach is from Karachi. Most visitors tend to go to the Hinglaj temple, an important sight for Hindu pilgrims but we managed to go deep into the national park with the Offroad pakistan who have made numerous visits there. Their website is worth a look :- offroadpakistan.com/
Hingol National Park or Hungol National Park (Urdu: ہنگول) is the largest of National Parks of Pakistan. It is on the Makran coast in Balochistan and is approximately 190 km from Karachi. The area was declared reserved in 1988.[1]
The park area covers parts of the three districts: Lasbela, Gwadar and Owaran of Balochistan province. It contains a variety of topographical features and vegetation, varying from arid sub tropical forest in the north to arid montane in the west. Large tracts of the NP are covered with drift sand and can be classified as coastal semi desert. The National Park includes the estuary of the Hingol river which supports a significant diversity of bird and fish species.
Currently, 20 staff members including 18 game watchers, two deputy rangers are responsible for the management of the Park under the guidance of the park Manager who reports to the Conservator and the Secretary Wildlife, Forest, Livestock, Environment and Tourism.
The shrine of Devi Hinglaj, the holiest among the 51 Shakti Peeths of Hinduism is situated in the park. It is a 15km trek from the main road. There is also a dirt track that leads to the site. Several thousand pilgrims visit the shrine each year.
Detailed inventories of wildlife were undertaken in 2006 and will be completed in the first half of 2007. Hingol is known to support at least 35 species of mammals, 65 species of amphibians and reptiles and 185 species of birds. Some 250 plant species were recorded in the initial surveys including 7 yet undescribed species. Many more species are yet to be collected.
The park forms an excellent habitat to wild Sindh Ibex, Afghan Urial and Chinkara Gazelle. Ibex is found in all steep mountain ranges and numerous in the Hinglaj and Rodani Kacho Mountain areas. Total population is estimated over 3000. The Urial populations are small and occur in isolated populations. The Machi and Upper Pachhri Mountains harbour the largest populations. Total population is less than 1000. The Chinkara occurs in good numbers along the great rivers (Nal-Hingol, Arra, Babro-Mar) in the Northern Plains and in the Harian and Maniji-Gurangatti valley areas. Elsewhere populations have been extirpated are very low. The total populations are preliminary estimated between 800-1200.
The Hingol River banks, estuary and mudflats forms an important habitat for migratory birds. About 40% of the bird species is related to water habitats. Migratory birds listed to visit Hingol include Dalmatian and Spot-billed Pelican, Sociable Plover, Spoonbills, Black Ibis, Black and White Stork. The Houbara Bustard (Chlamydotis undulata) visits the plains and valleys.
The River Hingol has been nurturing crocodiles for centuries. The Marsh Crocodile (Crocodylus palustris) occurs over large areas along the Hingol-Nal and some tributaries up to more than 100 km inland. The total population is about 50. There are several beaches along the more than 100 km coastline, however few tirtles visit the beaches nowadays. Historical records includes Olive Ridley (Lepidochelys olivacea) and Green Marine Turtles (Chelonia mydas). The vulnerable Spiny Tail Lizard (Uromastyx hardwickii) a mainly vegetarian lizard finds its most western distribution in Hingol.
Mammals in the park include Leopard, Jungle Cat, Caracal and Indian Desert Cat, Indian Fox, Bengal Fox and Sand Fox, Golden Jackal, Sindh Ibex, Afghan Urial, Chinkara Gazelle, Honey Badger, Indian Pangolin, Hedgehog (probably more than one species), Indian Crested Porcupine, Indian Grey Mongoose, Five striped Palm Squirrel, Wild Boar, Cape Hare and Desert Hare, Cairo Spiny mouse, Grey Spiny Mouse, Persian Jird, Indian Desert Jird and Libyian Jird, House Mouse, Roof Rat, and Mouse like Hamster. Wolf (Canis lupus pallipes) and Striped Hyena (Hyaena hyaena) are on the brink of extinction. The Leopard and Caracal populations are low.
The park has very few caves/ grottos, including one in the Dhrun Mountains with a bat population.
Birds in the park include Houbara Bustard, Dalmatian and Spot-billed Pelican, Bonnelli's eagle, Imperial eagle, Tawny eagle, Golden eagle, Eurasian griffon vulture, Egyptian vulture, Cinereous vulture, Lagger falcon, Red-headed merlin, Kestrel, Close-Barred sandgrouse, Grey partridge, See See partridge, Stone Curlew, Indian sand grouse, Coronetted sand grouse, Painted sand grouse, Eagle owl, Sind pied woodpecker, Hume's chat, Brown rock pipit, Striped buning, Finche larks, Hoopoe, Shrikes and Wheatears.
The Marsh Crocodile, Olive Ridley and Green Marine Turtles, Desert Monitor lizard, Yellow Monitor lizard, and different species of lizard and chameleon have been found in the park.
The government is all set to slice land off the Hingol National Park, the country’s largest, as the Pakistan Air Force and another defence-related organisation eye the prized real estate near the estuary whose value is likely to increase phenomenally once the Gwadar port starts functioning.
Sources in the Balochistan revenue department told Dawn that while the PAF has asked for around 80,000 acres (320 km²), including 23,000 acres (93 km²) in the national park, Pakistan Space and Upper Atmosphere Research Commission’s demand is for eight mauzas. [2]
Very few people have seen the Hingol National Park in the Balochistan province of Pakistan. Its nearest approach is from Karachi. Most visitors tend to go to the Hinglaj temple, an important sight for Hindu pilgrims but we managed to go deep into the national park with the Offroad pakistan who have made numerous visits there. Their website is worth a look :- offroadpakistan.com/
Hingol National Park or Hungol National Park (Urdu: ہنگول) is the largest of National Parks of Pakistan. It is on the Makran coast in Balochistan and is approximately 190 km from Karachi. The area was declared reserved in 1988.[1]
The park area covers parts of the three districts: Lasbela, Gwadar and Owaran of Balochistan province. It contains a variety of topographical features and vegetation, varying from arid sub tropical forest in the north to arid montane in the west. Large tracts of the NP are covered with drift sand and can be classified as coastal semi desert. The National Park includes the estuary of the Hingol river which supports a significant diversity of bird and fish species.
Currently, 20 staff members including 18 game watchers, two deputy rangers are responsible for the management of the Park under the guidance of the park Manager who reports to the Conservator and the Secretary Wildlife, Forest, Livestock, Environment and Tourism.
The shrine of Devi Hinglaj, the holiest among the 51 Shakti Peeths of Hinduism is situated in the park. It is a 15km trek from the main road. There is also a dirt track that leads to the site. Several thousand pilgrims visit the shrine each year.
Detailed inventories of wildlife were undertaken in 2006 and will be completed in the first half of 2007. Hingol is known to support at least 35 species of mammals, 65 species of amphibians and reptiles and 185 species of birds. Some 250 plant species were recorded in the initial surveys including 7 yet undescribed species. Many more species are yet to be collected.
The park forms an excellent habitat to wild Sindh Ibex, Afghan Urial and Chinkara Gazelle. Ibex is found in all steep mountain ranges and numerous in the Hinglaj and Rodani Kacho Mountain areas. Total population is estimated over 3000. The Urial populations are small and occur in isolated populations. The Machi and Upper Pachhri Mountains harbour the largest populations. Total population is less than 1000. The Chinkara occurs in good numbers along the great rivers (Nal-Hingol, Arra, Babro-Mar) in the Northern Plains and in the Harian and Maniji-Gurangatti valley areas. Elsewhere populations have been extirpated are very low. The total populations are preliminary estimated between 800-1200.
The Hingol River banks, estuary and mudflats forms an important habitat for migratory birds. About 40% of the bird species is related to water habitats. Migratory birds listed to visit Hingol include Dalmatian and Spot-billed Pelican, Sociable Plover, Spoonbills, Black Ibis, Black and White Stork. The Houbara Bustard (Chlamydotis undulata) visits the plains and valleys.
The River Hingol has been nurturing crocodiles for centuries. The Marsh Crocodile (Crocodylus palustris) occurs over large areas along the Hingol-Nal and some tributaries up to more than 100 km inland. The total population is about 50. There are several beaches along the more than 100 km coastline, however few tirtles visit the beaches nowadays. Historical records includes Olive Ridley (Lepidochelys olivacea) and Green Marine Turtles (Chelonia mydas). The vulnerable Spiny Tail Lizard (Uromastyx hardwickii) a mainly vegetarian lizard finds its most western distribution in Hingol.
Mammals in the park include Leopard, Jungle Cat, Caracal and Indian Desert Cat, Indian Fox, Bengal Fox and Sand Fox, Golden Jackal, Sindh Ibex, Afghan Urial, Chinkara Gazelle, Honey Badger, Indian Pangolin, Hedgehog (probably more than one species), Indian Crested Porcupine, Indian Grey Mongoose, Five striped Palm Squirrel, Wild Boar, Cape Hare and Desert Hare, Cairo Spiny mouse, Grey Spiny Mouse, Persian Jird, Indian Desert Jird and Libyian Jird, House Mouse, Roof Rat, and Mouse like Hamster. Wolf (Canis lupus pallipes) and Striped Hyena (Hyaena hyaena) are on the brink of extinction. The Leopard and Caracal populations are low.
The park has very few caves/ grottos, including one in the Dhrun Mountains with a bat population.
Birds in the park include Houbara Bustard, Dalmatian and Spot-billed Pelican, Bonnelli's eagle, Imperial eagle, Tawny eagle, Golden eagle, Eurasian griffon vulture, Egyptian vulture, Cinereous vulture, Lagger falcon, Red-headed merlin, Kestrel, Close-Barred sandgrouse, Grey partridge, See See partridge, Stone Curlew, Indian sand grouse, Coronetted sand grouse, Painted sand grouse, Eagle owl, Sind pied woodpecker, Hume's chat, Brown rock pipit, Striped buning, Finche larks, Hoopoe, Shrikes and Wheatears.
The Marsh Crocodile, Olive Ridley and Green Marine Turtles, Desert Monitor lizard, Yellow Monitor lizard, and different species of lizard and chameleon have been found in the park.
The government is all set to slice land off the Hingol National Park, the country’s largest, as the Pakistan Air Force and another defence-related organisation eye the prized real estate near the estuary whose value is likely to increase phenomenally once the Gwadar port starts functioning.
Sources in the Balochistan revenue department told Dawn that while the PAF has asked for around 80,000 acres (320 km²), including 23,000 acres (93 km²) in the national park, Pakistan Space and Upper Atmosphere Research Commission’s demand is for eight mauzas. [2]
Route leading towards Gwadar leaving coastal views behind us, these giant rocks are like a sleeping giants, gazing us while we pass them.
These territories are well guarded,perfectly safe to visit, it’s a hidden gem of our country, these hills formation are very rare to witness anywhere else in Pakistan.
A worker making stairs on the top of muddy volcano. This wondrous mud volcano is located in northwestern Chabahar city, Sistan Baluchistan province.
After each eruption, a sound like gunshot is heard with gas and mud issuing from the depths of the earth instead of lava.
The gas in Chabahar mud volcano is carbon dioxide, which is formed by the metamorphic alteration of deep rocks and is not flammable. Pure mud gushes out of this mud volcano.
This unique geological phenomenon demonstrates morphologic characteristics and tectonic activities in the area and the substances jetting out of it provide information on the condition of subterranean water and oil reserves.
Sistan Baluchistan Cultural Heritage, Tourism, and Handicrafts Department has proposed mud volcano be registered on UNESCO World Heritage List.
India is helping develop the Chabahar port and that would give it access to the oil and gas resources in Iran and the Central Asian states, in this it is competing with the Chinese which is building the Gwadar port, in Pakistani Baluchistan.
Iran plans to use Chabahar for transhipment to Afghanistan and Central Asia while reserving the port of Bandar Abbas as a major hub mainly for trade with Russia and Europe.
India, Iran and Afghanistan have signed an agreement to give Indian goods, heading for Central Asia and Afghanistan, preferential treatment and tariff reductions at Chabahar
Work on the Chabahar-Melak-Zaranj-Dilaram route from Iran to Afghanistan is in progress. Iran is with Indian aid upgrading the Chabahar-Melak road and constructing a bridge on the route to Zaranj. India's BRO is laying the 213-kilometer Zaranj-Dilaram road. It is a part of its USD 750 million aid package to Afghanistan.
The advantages that Chabahar has compared to Gwadar are the greater political stability and security of the Iranian hinterland and the hositlity and mistrust that the Pakistani Baluchis hold against the Punjabi dominated Pakistani Federal government. The Baluchis consider Sino-Pak initiative at Gwadar as a strategy from Islamabad to deny the province its deserved share of development pie. They also look with suspicion on the settlement of more and more non-Baluchis in the port area.
The Chabahar port project is Iran's chance to end its US sponsored economic isolation and benefit form the resurgent Indian economy. Along with Bandar Abbas, Chabahar is the Iranian entrepot on the North - South corridor. A strategic partnership between India, Iran and Russia to establish a multi-modal transport link connecting Mumbai with St. Petersburg. Providing Europe and the former Soviet republics of Central Asia access to Asia and vice-versa.
Mud volcanoes are caused by the movements of the earth gases. Generally, they can reach several hundred meters in height, and when the natural gas is ignited, they may burst out in flames much like a volcano.
Very few people have seen the Hingol National Park in the Balochistan province of Pakistan. Its nearest approach is from Karachi. Most visitors tend to go to the Hinglaj temple, an important sight for Hindu pilgrims but we managed to go deep into the national park with the Offroad pakistan who have made numerous visits there. Their website is worth a look :- offroadpakistan.com/
Hingol National Park or Hungol National Park (Urdu: ہنگول) is the largest of National Parks of Pakistan. It is on the Makran coast in Balochistan and is approximately 190 km from Karachi. The area was declared reserved in 1988.[1]
The park area covers parts of the three districts: Lasbela, Gwadar and Owaran of Balochistan province. It contains a variety of topographical features and vegetation, varying from arid sub tropical forest in the north to arid montane in the west. Large tracts of the NP are covered with drift sand and can be classified as coastal semi desert. The National Park includes the estuary of the Hingol river which supports a significant diversity of bird and fish species.
Currently, 20 staff members including 18 game watchers, two deputy rangers are responsible for the management of the Park under the guidance of the park Manager who reports to the Conservator and the Secretary Wildlife, Forest, Livestock, Environment and Tourism.
The shrine of Devi Hinglaj, the holiest among the 51 Shakti Peeths of Hinduism is situated in the park. It is a 15km trek from the main road. There is also a dirt track that leads to the site. Several thousand pilgrims visit the shrine each year.
Detailed inventories of wildlife were undertaken in 2006 and will be completed in the first half of 2007. Hingol is known to support at least 35 species of mammals, 65 species of amphibians and reptiles and 185 species of birds. Some 250 plant species were recorded in the initial surveys including 7 yet undescribed species. Many more species are yet to be collected.
The park forms an excellent habitat to wild Sindh Ibex, Afghan Urial and Chinkara Gazelle. Ibex is found in all steep mountain ranges and numerous in the Hinglaj and Rodani Kacho Mountain areas. Total population is estimated over 3000. The Urial populations are small and occur in isolated populations. The Machi and Upper Pachhri Mountains harbour the largest populations. Total population is less than 1000. The Chinkara occurs in good numbers along the great rivers (Nal-Hingol, Arra, Babro-Mar) in the Northern Plains and in the Harian and Maniji-Gurangatti valley areas. Elsewhere populations have been extirpated are very low. The total populations are preliminary estimated between 800-1200.
The Hingol River banks, estuary and mudflats forms an important habitat for migratory birds. About 40% of the bird species is related to water habitats. Migratory birds listed to visit Hingol include Dalmatian and Spot-billed Pelican, Sociable Plover, Spoonbills, Black Ibis, Black and White Stork. The Houbara Bustard (Chlamydotis undulata) visits the plains and valleys.
The River Hingol has been nurturing crocodiles for centuries. The Marsh Crocodile (Crocodylus palustris) occurs over large areas along the Hingol-Nal and some tributaries up to more than 100 km inland. The total population is about 50. There are several beaches along the more than 100 km coastline, however few tirtles visit the beaches nowadays. Historical records includes Olive Ridley (Lepidochelys olivacea) and Green Marine Turtles (Chelonia mydas). The vulnerable Spiny Tail Lizard (Uromastyx hardwickii) a mainly vegetarian lizard finds its most western distribution in Hingol.
Mammals in the park include Leopard, Jungle Cat, Caracal and Indian Desert Cat, Indian Fox, Bengal Fox and Sand Fox, Golden Jackal, Sindh Ibex, Afghan Urial, Chinkara Gazelle, Honey Badger, Indian Pangolin, Hedgehog (probably more than one species), Indian Crested Porcupine, Indian Grey Mongoose, Five striped Palm Squirrel, Wild Boar, Cape Hare and Desert Hare, Cairo Spiny mouse, Grey Spiny Mouse, Persian Jird, Indian Desert Jird and Libyian Jird, House Mouse, Roof Rat, and Mouse like Hamster. Wolf (Canis lupus pallipes) and Striped Hyena (Hyaena hyaena) are on the brink of extinction. The Leopard and Caracal populations are low.
The park has very few caves/ grottos, including one in the Dhrun Mountains with a bat population.
Birds in the park include Houbara Bustard, Dalmatian and Spot-billed Pelican, Bonnelli's eagle, Imperial eagle, Tawny eagle, Golden eagle, Eurasian griffon vulture, Egyptian vulture, Cinereous vulture, Lagger falcon, Red-headed merlin, Kestrel, Close-Barred sandgrouse, Grey partridge, See See partridge, Stone Curlew, Indian sand grouse, Coronetted sand grouse, Painted sand grouse, Eagle owl, Sind pied woodpecker, Hume's chat, Brown rock pipit, Striped buning, Finche larks, Hoopoe, Shrikes and Wheatears.
The Marsh Crocodile, Olive Ridley and Green Marine Turtles, Desert Monitor lizard, Yellow Monitor lizard, and different species of lizard and chameleon have been found in the park.
The government is all set to slice land off the Hingol National Park, the country’s largest, as the Pakistan Air Force and another defence-related organisation eye the prized real estate near the estuary whose value is likely to increase phenomenally once the Gwadar port starts functioning.
Sources in the Balochistan revenue department told Dawn that while the PAF has asked for around 80,000 acres (320 km²), including 23,000 acres (93 km²) in the national park, Pakistan Space and Upper Atmosphere Research Commission’s demand is for eight mauzas. [2]
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Makran_Coastal_Highway
Makran Coastal Highway is a 653 km-long coastal highway along Pakistan's Arabian Sea coastline. It runs primarily through Balochistan province between Karachi and Gwadar, passing near the port towns of Ormara and Pasni.
The official and technical designation of the Makran Coastal Highway is N10, which is the abbreviation for National Highway 10.
BackgroundPrior to the construction of the Makran Coastal Highway in 2004, the port city of Karachi was linked to the port town of Gwadar via an uncarpeted "jeep" or "dirt" track. The journey between Karachi and Gwadar used to take at least two days and took a heavy toll on the "wear and tear" of vehicles. It was considered preferable to take the safer but longer route via Quetta.
After completion of the Makran Coastal Highway, the average journey time between Karachi and Gwadar has been reduced to only 6 to 7 hours and transportation costs have also been reduced.
The Makran Coastal Highway was conceived and built by the Government of Pakistan with the following objectives:
To develop infrastructure and boost economic activity in the areas along Pakistan's coastline
To improve the transportation and communications infrastructure in Balochistan province
To develop the coastal towns of Ormara, Pasni and Gwadar into major port cities
To link Ormara, Pasni and Gwadar with the rest of Pakistan's national highways network
To develop the seafood industry along Pakistan's coastline by reducing the time and costs involved in transporting fresh seafood from seafood catchment areas to major cities in Pakistan as well as export processing zones in Karachi and Gwadar
ConstructionThe construction contract for the Makran Coastal Highway was awarded to Pakistan's Frontier Works Organisation (FWO), which built the Karakorum Highway.
Construction work on the Makran Coastal Highway Project commenced in 2002 and was completed by 14 December 2004, in a period of three years.
Management and maintenanceThe Makran Coastal Highway is managed and maintained by Pakistan's National Highway Authority.
Hinglaj (Sindhi: هنگلاج, Urdu: ﮨنگلاج, Sanskrit: हिङ्ग्लाज, Hindi: हिंगलाज) is an important Hindu pilgrimage place in Balochistan, Pakistan and Kuldevi of Kshatriya Bhavsar Community. It is situated in Balochistan province about 250 km north of Karachi.[1]
Mythological Origin
When Lord Vishnu cut up the body of Sati into 51 pieces so that Lord Shiva would calm down and stop his Tandava, the pieces were scattered over various places of the Indian subcontinent. It is said that the head of Sati fell at Hingula or Hinglaj and is thus considered the most important of the 51 Shakti Peeths. At each of the Peeths, Bhairava (a manifestation of Shiva) accompanies the relics. The Bhairava at Hinglaj is called Bhimalochana, located in Koteshwar, Kutch. The Sanskrit texts mention the part as 'Brahmadreya' or vital essence. For details, see this.
In the Ramayana, after slaying Ravana, Lord Ram came to Hinglaj to atone for his sin of 'Brahmhatya' (killing a Brahmin). Ravana was a Brahmin and a great devotee of Lord Shiva and Durga. Lord Ram meditated at Hinglaj as it was a very important shrine.
The mantra or incantation for Devi Hinglaj is attributed to Saint Dadhichi, an important saint in Hindu mythology. The mantra is :
ॐ हिंगुले परमहिंगुले अमृतरूपिणि तनुशक्ति
मनः शिवे श्री हिंगुलाय नमः स्वाहा
OM HINGULE PARAM HINGULE AMRUTRUPINI TANU SHAKTI
MANAH SHIVE SHREE HINGULAI NAMAH SWAHA
Translation : "Oh Hingula Devi, she who holds nectar in her self and is power incarnate. She who is one with Lord Shiva, to her we pay our respects and make this offering (swaha)."
Yet another incarnation:
ब्रह्मरंध्रम् हिंगुलायाम् भैरवो भीमलोचन: |
कोट्टरी सा महामाया त्रिगुणा या दिगम्बरी ||
BRAHMARANDHRAM HINGULAAYAAM BHAIRAVO VIMALOCHANAH
KOTTARI SAA MAHAAMAAYAA TRIGUNAA YAA DIGAMVARI
Translation : "Mahaamaayaa (Queen of Illusions) who represents the supreme virtue by reigning over all three virtues, has Bhimalochana as her Bhairava, and derides the worldly trappings by dancing naked, resides in this cave of Hingula that enshrines her sacred head."
Geographical Location
Hinglaj is situated in the Balochistan province of Pakistan. It is near the peak of one of the mountains of the Makran range. It is approximately 120 km from the Indus River Delta and 20 km from the Arabian Sea. The area is extremely arid and the pilgrimage also called 'Nani ki Haj' by local Muslims takes place before summer. The pilgrimage starts at a place near the Hao river which is 10 km from Karachi.
The name of Hinglaj lends itself to the Hingol river, the largest in Balochistan and the Hingol National Park which at 6,200 square kilometers is the largest in Pakistan.
Since it is located in a desert which is called Maru in Sanskrit, the shrine is referred to in holy texts as "Marutirtha Hinglaj" which means Hinglaj, the Shrine of the desert. "Marutirtha Hinglaj" is also the name of a Bengali novel by Kalikananda Abadhut who made a pilgrimage to Hinglaj and Koteshwar. The novel is based on real-life experience and has later been adapted into a very successful Bengali movie of the same name.
The Makran Coastal Highway linking Quetta and Gwadar passes through Balochistan. It was built by FWO and follows the same path which Alexander took when he ended his campaign. The highway has made the pilgrimage and visiting the shrine very convenient.
Social Significance
Despite the partition and the increasing Islamic stance of the Pakistani Government and society, Hinglaj has survived and is in fact revered by local Muslims who call it 'Nani ki Mandir'. Muslims offer red or saffron clothes, incense, candles and a sweet preparation called 'Sirini' to the deity[citation needed]. The Muslims protected sites like Hinglaj which are the last vestiges of the Hindu society which once straddled the area.
Hingula means cinnabar (HgS Mercuric Sulphide). It was used in ancient India to cure snakebite and other poisonings and is still employed in traditional medicine. The Goddess Hingula is thus believed to possess powers which can cure poisoning and other diseases. The Muslim name 'Nani' is an abbreviation of the name of the ancient Goddess "Nanaia", whose Persian name is "Anahita".
The Pilgrimage
Although the road linking the port of Gwadar on the Arabian Sea with the interior has shortened the pilgrimage a lot, the ancient path followed for millennia through the Baluch desert is endowed with a unique importance. The very journey on foot is considered a penance to purify oneself before approaching the deity. An account of such a journey is given below.
The pilgrims are led by priests or caretakers of the shrine through the desert. They hold a wooden trident in their hands. The trident or Trishul is the weapon of Lord Shiva and hence is associated with the Sati too. Since they hold the trident during the trip, they are called 'Charidaars' (Those who hold the stick or Chadi). The Chadi is draped with saffron, red or pink coloured fabrics.
The priests give a saffron cloth to every pilgrim and an oath is taken that each would help the other. However they are warned not to share their personal stores of water. This act is deemed to be a sort of fast and penance necessary for the journey.
On the path to the shrine are situated wells which are guarded by the local tribesmen. Feuds over water, a scarce commodity, is common in the area. The tribesmen are offered food consisting primarily of Roti (circular flat disks of baked flour) in lieu of water.
Baba Chandrakup
An important stop during the pilgrimage is the mud volcano called 'Chandrakup' (literally 'Moon Well'). It is considered holy and is addressed as 'Baba Chandrakup' The volcano is filled with mud, instead of magma, hence the term "mud volcano". It is considered to be the abode of Babhaknath. It is one of the few sites of active volcanic activity in the Asian mainland. The mud is semi fluid and sometimes it spills over and aggregates and cools into hillocks which surround the site. There are altogether 18 mud volcanoes in the region.
Pilgrims stay up all night at the base of the volcano making Rotis which are offered to the volcano. The activity is considered to be very holy. The ingredients, flour, ghee (clarified butter), jaggery, sugar are mixed on a cloth which is held at all times at four corners by pilgrims. This is done to ensure that it never touches the ground. The prepared Rotis are covered with wood.
At daybreak, the Rotis are carried by the pilgrims and priests to the mouth of the crater. A Chadi or Wooden Trident is planted near the edge of the crater and offerings of incense and cannabis are made along with recitation of 'mantras'. The rotis are then tore up and cast into the crater.
After this ritual every pilgrim is asked to confess his sins and ask for forgiveness. Anyone who refuses or hesitates to confess to his or her sins is ostracised and abandoned by the party. After the confession, the party proceeds with the permission of 'Baba Chandrakup'.
Reaching the Shrine
The pilgrimage continues for another four to five days after leaving Chandrakup. The final stop is a small village with wooden houses. It is home to the caretakers of the shrine and Baluch tribesmen who revere the deity even though they are Muslims. Before entering the shrine, the pilgrims bathe in the Hingol River (also called the Aghore River). The shrine is situated on the mountain on the other bank of the river. The pilgrims bathe and visit the shrine in their wet clothes.
The Shrine's Mark
The shrine is recognised by a mark which resembles the sun and the moon. This mark is upon a giant boulder at the top of the hill containing the cave. It is believed that Lord Ram created this mark with the strike of his arrow after his penance ended.
The Shrine
The shrine is called 'Mahal', a word of Arabic origin which means palace. The natural beauty of the shrine has spawned folklore that it was constructed by demigods called 'Yakshas'. The walls and roof of the cave are encrusted with colourful stones and semi-precious veins. The floor is also multi hued.
The entrance to the cave is around 50 feet in height. At the end of the cave is the sanctum sanctorum , which houses the holy relic. It is covered by red clothes and vermilion. There are two entrances to the sanctum. One has to crawl into the sanctum, take the 'darshan' and leave through the other opening. Prasad is distributed to the pilgrims and they return after seeing the Milky Way at night.
Hingula Pithas
Although the Hingula shrine in Balochistan is considered to be a true Shakti Peeth, other shrines dedicated to the goddess exist in India and Sri Lanka. One important shrine is located 14 km from Talcher in the state of Orissa in India. King Nala of the Vidarbha region of Western India was an ardent devotee of Devi Hingula. He was approached by the King of Puri for help. In order to start cooking 'Mahaprasada' for Lord Jagannath he had to procure Devi Hingula as fire for the temple kitchen. The Goddess agreed and moved to Puri as fire. The Hingula shrine in Balochistan with its location west of the River Indus (and in Balochistan) is the only Shakti Peeth outside the subcontinent.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Karakoram_Highway
The Karakoram Highway (KKH) (Urdu: شاہراہ قراقرم, Chinese: 中巴公路) is the highest paved international road in the world. It connects China and Pakistan across the Karakoram mountain range, through the Khunjerab Pass, at an altitude of 4,693 m/15,397 ft as confirmed by both SRTM and multiple GPS readings. It connects China's Xinjiang region with Pakistan's Gilgit-Baltistan and also serves as a popular tourist attraction. It is now part of the route officially known as as N-35 within Pakistan. Due to its high elevation and the difficult conditions in which it was constructed, it is also referred to as the "Ninth Wonder of the World."[citation needed]
History
Karakoram Highway route mapThe Karakoram Highway, also known as the Friendship Highway in China, was built by the governments of Pakistan and China, and was completed in 1986, after 20 years of construction. 810 Pakistani and 82 Chinese workers lost their lives,[1] mostly in landslides and falls, while building the highway. The route of the KKH traces one of the many paths of the ancient Silk Road.
On the Pakistani side, the road was constructed by FWO (Frontier Works Organization), employing the Pakistan Army Corps of Engineers. Presently, the Engineer-in-Chief branch of the Pakistani Army is working on a project documenting the history of the highway. It is being written by Brigadier (Retired) Muhammad Mumtaz Khalid, who oversaw its construction.
The Highway
The highway, connecting Gilgit-Baltistan of Pakistan to the ancient Silk Road, runs approximately 1,300 km from Kashgar, a city in the Xinjiang region of China, to Abbottabad, of Pakistan. An extension of the highway south west from Abbottabad, in the form of N-35, meets the Grand Trunk Road, N-5 at Hassanabdal, Pakistan.
The highway cuts through the collision zone between the Eurasian and Indian plates, where China, Tajikistan, Afghanistan and Pakistan come within 250 km of each other. Owing largely to the extremely sensitive state of the Kashmir conflict between India and Pakistan, the Karakoram highway has strategic and military importance.
On June 30, 2006, a memorandum of understanding was signed between the Pakistani Highway Administration and China's State-owned Assets Supervision and Administration Commission (SASAC) to rebuild and upgrade the Karakoram Highway. According to SASAC, the width of the highway will be expanded from 10 metres to 30 metres, and its transport capacity will be increased three times. As well, the upgraded road will be constructed to particularly accommodate heavy-laden vehicles and extreme weather conditions.
China and Pakistan are also planning to link the Karakoram Highway to the southern port of Gwadar in Balochistan through the Chinese-aided Gwadar-Dalbandin railway, which extends up to Rawalpindi.
Pakistani Section
The Pakistani section of the highway is 806 km long. It starts from Abbottabad (though N-35 of which KKH is now a part, officially starts from Hassanabdal). The highway meets the Indus River at Thakot, and continues along the river until Bunji, where the Gilgit River joins the Indus River. This is the place where three great mountain ranges meet, the Hindukush, the Himalaya and the Karakoram. The western end of the Himalayas, marked by the 9th highest peak in the world, Nanga Parbat can be seen from the highway. The highway passes through the capital of the Gilgit-Baltistan, Gilgit, and continues to the beautiful valleys of Nagar and Hunza, along the Hunza River. Many of the highest mountains, lakes and glaciers in the Karakoram can be directly seen from the highway in this section. Finally, the highway meets the Pakistan-China border at Khunjerab Pass.
Chinese Section
The Karakoram Highway in the Xinjiang region of China.The Chinese Section of the Karakoram Highway follows the north-south Sarykol ('Yellow Lake') valley just west of the Tarim Basin, which is barely visible in the satellite image at left. The road from Kashgar goes southwest about 80 km and then turns west to enter the Gez (Ghez) River canyon between Chakragil mountain on the north and Kongur mountain on the south. From the Gez canyon the population becomes Kirgiz. Having climbed up to the valley, the road turns south past Kongur, Karakul Lake and Muztagh Ata on the east. Below Muztagh Ata a new road goes west over the Kulma Pass to join the Pamir Highway in Gorno-Badakhshan, Tajikistan. The main road continues over a low pass (where the population becomes Tajik) and descends to Tashkurgan. Further south a valley and jeep track leads west towards the Wakhjir Pass to the Wakhan Corridor. Next the road turns west to a checkpost and small settlement at Pirali, and then the Khunjerab Pass, beyond which is Pakistan, the Khunjerab River and Hunza.
(In 747 Gao Xianzhi, a Tang general crossed the Broghol Pass into what is now Pakistan - the furthest Chinese penetration in this direction. He was later defeated at the Battle of Talas, and the Chinese withdrew from the region.)
Major Towns
Chilas
Gilgit
Danyor
Chalt
Nagar, Pakistan
Hunza
Gulmit
Passu
Sost
Tashkurgan Town, China
Ghez
Upal
Kashgar - Chinese railhead - 1,435 mm (4 ft 8+1⁄2 in) gauge.
pagal
Tourism
In recent years, the highway has become a destination for adventure tourism. It was ranked as the 3rd best Tourist Destination in Pakistan by The Guardian.[2] road has also given mountaineers and cyclists easier access to the many high mountains, glaciers and lakes in the area. The highway also provides access to Gilgit and Skardu from Islamabad by road. These are the two major hubs for mountaineering expeditions in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan administered Kashmir.[3] The Gilgit-Baltistan Administration of Pakistan and the Xinjiang Administration of China have signed an agreement to issue border passes to their permanent residents. This pass is valid for a calendar year and is used to travel through Khunjerab Pass only.
Mountains and glaciers
KKH alonge the Indus River.Karakoram Highway provides the pathway to expeditions for almost all peaks in Gilgit-Baltistan of Pakistan, Kashmir and several peaks in Xinjiang China. The region includes some of the world's largest glaciers like Baltoro Glacier. Five of the Eight-thousanders (above 8,000m) of the world that are in Pakistan are accessible by the highway. The notable mountains that can be directly seen while traveling on the highway are:
Nanga Parbat, Gilgit-Baltistan,Kashmir, 9th highest of the world at 8126m
Rakaposhi, Gilgit-Baltistan,Kashmir, 27th highest of the world at 7788m
Diran, Gilgit-Baltistan,Kashmir, most dangerous mountain in Pakistan
Shishpar, Gilgit-Baltistan,Kashmir
Ultar Peak, Gilgit-Baltistan,Kashmir
Tupopdan, Gilgit-Baltistan,Kashmir, also known as Cathedral Peaks near Passu
Many glaciers can be seen while traveling on the highway:
Minapin Glacier
Passu Glacier
Ghulkin Glacier
Khunjerab Glacier
Rivers and Lakes
Several rivers and lakes are also made accessible by the highway. These include:
Indus River
Hunza River
Gilgit River
Ghujerab River
Karakul Lake in Xinjiang (China)
Rock art and petroglyphs
There are more than 20,000 pieces of rock art and petroglyphs all along the highway that are concentrated at ten major sites between Hunza and Shatial. The carvings were left by various invaders, traders and pilgrims who passed along the trade route, as well as by locals. The earliest date back to between 5000 BC and 1000 BC, showing single animals, triangular men and hunting scenes in which the animals are larger than the hunters. These carvings were pecked into the rock with stone tools and are covered with a thick patina that yields their age.
Traveling
There are several transport companies in Pakistan that offer bus service between major towns of the highway, and from Rawalpindi and Lahore. The largest company is Northern Areas Transport Corporation (NATCO). Other companies are Masherbrum Travel and Silk Route Travel.
Bus service between Gilgit and Kashghar
On June 1, 2006, a daily bus service began between Gilgit, Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistani Kashmir and Kashghar, Xinjiang, through the Sust and Tashkorgan border area.[4]
Weather
Landslides often disturb the traffic for several hours.The KKH is best traveled in the spring or early autumn. Heavy snow during harsh winters can shut the highway down for extended periods. Heavy monsoon rains, around July and August, cause occasional landslides that can block the road for hours or more. The border crossing between China and Pakistan at Khunjerab Pass is open only between May 1 and December 31 of every year.
Very few people have seen the Hingol National Park in the Balochistan province of Pakistan. Its nearest approach is from Karachi. Most visitors tend to go to the Hinglaj temple, an important sight for Hindu pilgrims but we managed to go deep into the national park with the Offroad pakistan who have made numerous visits there. Their website is worth a look :- offroadpakistan.com/
Hingol National Park or Hungol National Park (Urdu: ہنگول) is the largest of National Parks of Pakistan. It is on the Makran coast in Balochistan and is approximately 190 km from Karachi. The area was declared reserved in 1988.[1]
The park area covers parts of the three districts: Lasbela, Gwadar and Owaran of Balochistan province. It contains a variety of topographical features and vegetation, varying from arid sub tropical forest in the north to arid montane in the west. Large tracts of the NP are covered with drift sand and can be classified as coastal semi desert. The National Park includes the estuary of the Hingol river which supports a significant diversity of bird and fish species.
Currently, 20 staff members including 18 game watchers, two deputy rangers are responsible for the management of the Park under the guidance of the park Manager who reports to the Conservator and the Secretary Wildlife, Forest, Livestock, Environment and Tourism.
The shrine of Devi Hinglaj, the holiest among the 51 Shakti Peeths of Hinduism is situated in the park. It is a 15km trek from the main road. There is also a dirt track that leads to the site. Several thousand pilgrims visit the shrine each year.
Detailed inventories of wildlife were undertaken in 2006 and will be completed in the first half of 2007. Hingol is known to support at least 35 species of mammals, 65 species of amphibians and reptiles and 185 species of birds. Some 250 plant species were recorded in the initial surveys including 7 yet undescribed species. Many more species are yet to be collected.
The park forms an excellent habitat to wild Sindh Ibex, Afghan Urial and Chinkara Gazelle. Ibex is found in all steep mountain ranges and numerous in the Hinglaj and Rodani Kacho Mountain areas. Total population is estimated over 3000. The Urial populations are small and occur in isolated populations. The Machi and Upper Pachhri Mountains harbour the largest populations. Total population is less than 1000. The Chinkara occurs in good numbers along the great rivers (Nal-Hingol, Arra, Babro-Mar) in the Northern Plains and in the Harian and Maniji-Gurangatti valley areas. Elsewhere populations have been extirpated are very low. The total populations are preliminary estimated between 800-1200.
The Hingol River banks, estuary and mudflats forms an important habitat for migratory birds. About 40% of the bird species is related to water habitats. Migratory birds listed to visit Hingol include Dalmatian and Spot-billed Pelican, Sociable Plover, Spoonbills, Black Ibis, Black and White Stork. The Houbara Bustard (Chlamydotis undulata) visits the plains and valleys.
The River Hingol has been nurturing crocodiles for centuries. The Marsh Crocodile (Crocodylus palustris) occurs over large areas along the Hingol-Nal and some tributaries up to more than 100 km inland. The total population is about 50. There are several beaches along the more than 100 km coastline, however few tirtles visit the beaches nowadays. Historical records includes Olive Ridley (Lepidochelys olivacea) and Green Marine Turtles (Chelonia mydas). The vulnerable Spiny Tail Lizard (Uromastyx hardwickii) a mainly vegetarian lizard finds its most western distribution in Hingol.
Mammals in the park include Leopard, Jungle Cat, Caracal and Indian Desert Cat, Indian Fox, Bengal Fox and Sand Fox, Golden Jackal, Sindh Ibex, Afghan Urial, Chinkara Gazelle, Honey Badger, Indian Pangolin, Hedgehog (probably more than one species), Indian Crested Porcupine, Indian Grey Mongoose, Five striped Palm Squirrel, Wild Boar, Cape Hare and Desert Hare, Cairo Spiny mouse, Grey Spiny Mouse, Persian Jird, Indian Desert Jird and Libyian Jird, House Mouse, Roof Rat, and Mouse like Hamster. Wolf (Canis lupus pallipes) and Striped Hyena (Hyaena hyaena) are on the brink of extinction. The Leopard and Caracal populations are low.
The park has very few caves/ grottos, including one in the Dhrun Mountains with a bat population.
Birds in the park include Houbara Bustard, Dalmatian and Spot-billed Pelican, Bonnelli's eagle, Imperial eagle, Tawny eagle, Golden eagle, Eurasian griffon vulture, Egyptian vulture, Cinereous vulture, Lagger falcon, Red-headed merlin, Kestrel, Close-Barred sandgrouse, Grey partridge, See See partridge, Stone Curlew, Indian sand grouse, Coronetted sand grouse, Painted sand grouse, Eagle owl, Sind pied woodpecker, Hume's chat, Brown rock pipit, Striped buning, Finche larks, Hoopoe, Shrikes and Wheatears.
The Marsh Crocodile, Olive Ridley and Green Marine Turtles, Desert Monitor lizard, Yellow Monitor lizard, and different species of lizard and chameleon have been found in the park.
The government is all set to slice land off the Hingol National Park, the country’s largest, as the Pakistan Air Force and another defence-related organisation eye the prized real estate near the estuary whose value is likely to increase phenomenally once the Gwadar port starts functioning.
Sources in the Balochistan revenue department told Dawn that while the PAF has asked for around 80,000 acres (320 km²), including 23,000 acres (93 km²) in the national park, Pakistan Space and Upper Atmosphere Research Commission’s demand is for eight mauzas. [2]
Quetta is one of my favourite cities in Pakistan. It is unique in the sense that it looks well planned and is surrounded by mountains, which are snow-capped in winter. Quetta can be quite cold in winter and hot in summer. The geography and location of Quetta give it a very non-South Asian feel. There is also quite a mix of people belonging to the Middle East, Central Asia and South Asia. The majority in the city are the Pashtuns but you also have the Baloch, the Brahvi in good numbers too. There are the Hazaras and also migrants from Punjab and Sindh, some of them Hindus too. Sadly there is a civil war raging in some parts of Balochistan and it is not as safe to visit as it once was. The situation maybe worsened if the Americans feel that the leader of the Taliban, Mullah Omer, is hiding there as they want to conduct drone attacks on what they believe to be aliban training camps. Quetta is a beautiful city and deserves peace and I wish the violence disappears.
Quetta (help•info) (Pashto: کوټه, Urdu: کوئٹہ, Hazaragi: کویته, Brahui: Koŧá) is the largest city and the provincial capital of the Balochistan Province of Pakistan. It is known as the "Fruit Garden of Pakistan", due to the diversity of its plant and animal wildlife. Situated at an average elevation of 1,654 metres (5,429 ft) above sea level,[3] the city is a major stronghold along the western frontier of the country. The city is also home to the Hazarganji Chiltan National Park, which contains some of the rarest species of wildlife in the world and to a research institute, the Geological Survey of Pakistan.
Quetta sits near the Durand Line border with Afghanistan and is an important trade and communications centre between the two countries as well as an important military location occupying a vital strategic position for the Pakistani Armed Forces. The city lies on the Bolan Pass route which was once the only gateway to and from South Asia. The city was the closest city to the 1935 and the 2008 earthquakes both of which resulted in a great deal of damage to the city and significant loss of life.
Etymology
Quetta is also spelled Kuwatah which is a variation of Kuatta, a Pashto word,.[4] It is believed the city's name is derived from the four imposing hills (Chiltan, Takatu, Zarghoon and Murdaar) that surround the city.
History
The area was originally inhabited by Kasi (A tribe of Pashtun), the first detailed account of Quetta is from the 11th century when it was captured by Mahmud of Ghazni during one of his invasions of the Indian sub-continent. In 1543, the Mughal emperor Humayun rested in Quetta on his retreat to Persia, leaving his one-year-old son Akbar in the city until his return two years later. The Khan of Kalat ruled Quetta until 1556, when the Persians conquered the city only to have it retaken by Akbar in 1595. In 1828 the first westerner to visit Quetta described it as a mud-walled fort surrounded by three hundred mud houses. Although the city was occupied briefly in 1839 by the British during the First Afghan War, it was not until 1876 that Quetta became part of the British Empire, with Robert Sandeman being made the political leader for Baluchistan. The arrival of British troops led to the establishment of road and rail links and the introduction of schools, mainly for strategic purposes.
The British made the largely Pashtun area part of British Balochistan. In April 1883 it was combined with Pishin into a single administrative unit.
By the time of the earthquake on May 31, 1935 Quetta had developed into a bustling city with a number of multi-story buildings. The epicentre of the earthquake was close to the city and destroyed most of the city's infrastructure and killed an estimated 40,000 people. After many years the city has been rebuilt mainly with local funds. Structures are now generally earthquake resistant comprising of mainly single story structures with bricks and re-inforced concrete. However multi-story buildings are also built, while the number of buildings of three to five floors are being constructed in the city.
On joining Pakistan, Quetta was made the capital city of the newly created province of Balochistan before it was combined with other Balochi states (Kalat, Makran, Lasbela and Kharan) to form the Baloch province. Quetta was supposed to remain the capital of the province until 1971.
Geography and climate
Quetta has a desert climate (Köppen BWk) with a significant variation between summer and winter temperatures. Summer starts in late May and goes on until early September with average temperatures ranging from 24-26 °C (75-78 °F).The highest temperature in Quetta is 42 °C (108 °F) which was recorded on 10 July 1998.[5] Autumn starts in late September and continues until mid-November with average temperatures in the 12-18 °C (55-65 °F) range. Winter starts in late November and ends in late March, with average temperatures near 4-5 °C (39-41 °F).The lowest temperature in Quetta is −18.3 °C (−0.9 °F) which was recorded on 8 January 1970.[5] Spring starts in early April and ends in late May, with average temperatures close to 15 °C (60 °F). Unlike most of Pakistan, Quetta does not have a monsoon season of sustained, heavy rainfall. Highest rainfall during 24 hours in Quetta is 113 millimetres (4.4 in) which was recorded on 17 December 2000.,[5] Highest monthly rainfall is 232.4 millimetres (9.15 in) which was recorded in March, 1982.[5] and the highest annual rainfall is 949.8 millimetres (37.39 in) recorded in 1982.[5] In the winter snow is the principle mode of precipitation with snow falling mostly in the months of December, January and February.
The city saw droughts in the year 2000, and 2001. During these years the city didn't received snowfall and received below normal rains. While in 2003 the city received snowfall after a long period of five years. In 2004, and 2005 Quetta received normal rains with snowfall while in 2006, 2007 and 2009 the city doesn't revived any snow, except 2008 when Quetta received snowfall of four inches in four hours on 29 January 2008.[6] While on 2 February 2008 Quetta received ten inches of snow in just 10 hours.[7] These are the heaviest snowfall for the city in the last ten years. During the winter of 2010 it doesn't received any snowfall and saw below normal rains due to the presence of El-Nino over Pakistan.[8]
Quetta comprises approximately 2,653 km2 (1,036 square miles) and consists of series of valleys which act as a natural fort surrounded on all sides by a number of imposing hills named Chiltan, Takatoo, Murdar and Zarghun. There are no natural boundaries between Quetta and its adjoining districts of Dera Ismail Khan to the northeast, Dera Ghazi Khan and Sibi to the east, Sukkur and Jacobabad to the southeast, Karachi and Gawadar to the south and Ziarat to the southwest. The closest major city is Kandahar in Afghanistan which is located to the west of the Quetta.
Government and politics
Under the latest revision of Pakistan's administrative structure, promulgated in 2001,[10] Quetta was restructured as a City District, and divided into two towns[11][12] Each town in turn consists of a group of union councils (U.C.'s).[13]:
1.Zarghoon Town
2.Chiltan Town
Transport
Quetta is on the western edge of Pakistan and is well connected to the rest of the country by a network of roads, railways and airways.
At an altitude of 1,605 metres (5,260 ft) above sea level, Quetta Airport is the second highest airport in Pakistan. Pakistan International Airlines, Shaheen Air International and Airblue all have regular flights between Quetta and the other major cities of Pakistan including Islamabad, Gwadar, Karachi, Lahore and Peshawar while Pakistan International Airlines operates direct flights to Manchester, Dubai, New York and other major international airports.
Quetta Railway Station is one of the highest railway stations in Pakistan at 1,676 metres (5,495 ft) above sea level. The railway track was laid in 1890's during the British era to link Quetta with rest of the country. The extensive network of Pakistan Railways connects Quetta to Karachi in south, by a 863 km (536 miles) track, Lahore in northeast (1,170 km or 727 miles) and Peshawar further northeast (1,587 km or 986 miles). A metalled road runs alongside the railway that connects Quetta to Karachi via Sibi, Jacobabad and Rohri. A track from the Iranian city of Zahedan links to Quetta via Taftan. Service was temporarily discontinued in 2006 due to unrest in Balochistan. Since 2008 railway service has come under attack by the Balochs, especially in the Bolan Pass area resulting in the bomb blast on the railway tracks and firing on trains, creating a sense of insecurity amongst the traveling public.
Recently there has been a proposal to construct a railway track that will link Gawadar to China and Gawadar with Quetta via Kalat. Although the distance from Quetta to Lahore is only 700 km (417 miles), there is no direct track on this route because of the Sulaiman Range that lies in the east of Quetta. All northeast-bound trains for Punjab or the North-West Frontier Province must first go over 350 km (218 miles) south to Rohri, Sindh (near Sukkur) before continuing north to Punjab and North-West Frontier Province.
Quetta is connected by metalled roads to the rest of the country. A recently built road connects it with Karachi through Mastung, Kalat, Khuzdar and Lasbela. Other major roads are Quetta to Karachi following the Sibi, Jacobabad, Sukkur and Hyderabad route and two roads from Quetta to Lahore one (the older) via Sibi, Sukkur, Rahim Yar Khan, Bahawalpur and Multan the other route via Khanozai, Muslimbagh Loralai, Fort Mondro, Dera Ghazi Khan and Multan. Quetta is also connected with Afghanistan through Chaman and to Iran through Mastung, Nushki, Dalbandin and Taftan.
Educational institutions
Quetta has a number of institutions of higher education. The prestigious military Command and Staff College, which was founded by the British. The city is home to the University of Balochistan which was established in 1974, the Balochistan University of Information Technology, Engineering and Management Sciences, Sardar Bahadur Khan Women's University, the Geological Survey of Pakistan, the Sandeman Library and two government colleges affiliated with the University of Peshawar.
Flora and fauna
A wide variety of mammals such as Markhor, Balochi language: مار خور (mounatin goat), leopards, wolves, hyena, rabbits, wild cats and porcupines are to be found in the Quetta region. Local birds species include partridge, warblers, shikra, the blue rock pigeon, rock nuthatch, golden eagle, sparrows, hawks, falcons and bearded vultures. Flora in Quetta is both numerous and rare. A total of 225 species have been identified in the area including; pistachios, juniper, wild olives, wild ash and wild almonds. Also found are a wide range of shrubs including; wild fig, barbery, wild cherry, makhi and herbs such as ephedra intermadia and gerardiana.
Culture
Quetta is a tourist attraction for foreigners to whom it is advertised as a "thrilling location, full of adventure and enjoyment". Among the attractions are the bazaars located on the Shahrah-e-Liaquat (Liaquat Bazaar and Suraj Gang Bazaar and Shahrah-e-Iqbal (Kandahari Bazaar). In bazaars the colourful handicrafts, particularly Balochi mirror work and Pashtun embroidery both of which are admired world-wide. Afghan rugs, fur coats, embroidered jackets, waist-coats, sandals and other traditional Pashtun items are also famous.
Balochi carpets are made by the nomadic tribes of the area. They are generally not nearly as fine or expensive as either the Persian city products or even the Turkoman tribal rugs from further north, but they are generally more authentic than the copies of Turkoman and Persian designs often found in the major cities of Pakistan. The rugs range in price and size, from lower priced crude examples to fine and valuable pieces. Many are small enough to be portable.
For those interested in local cuisine, there are many dishes to try. The famous Pashtun tribal cuisine “Roash” which non-locals call “Namkin” is to be found in both city restaurants as well as in the outlying areas. Some of the finest mutton in the country is raised around Quetta and is a mainstay of local cuisine. The Pashtun tribal dish, “Landhi”, is made of a whole lamb which is dried and kept fresh during the cold winters. "Khadi Kebab" is a lamb barbecue while "Sajji" (leg of lamb) and "Pulao" are other local dishes. The best restaurants are Usmania, Tabaq, Green Hotel, Gulab Hotel, Lal Kabab, and the Abasin Hotel all of which serve both Pakistani and western food while the Cafe China is one of the oldest and most reputable Chinese restaurants. A number of small hotels located along Alamdar road provide accommodation for tourists.
Hanna Lake, which nestles in the hills ten kilometres (six miles) east of the city, is a startling turquoise pool which contrasts markedly with its bare brown surroundings. An attraction for holidaymakers, with facilities for boat hire and a lakeside restaurant it is crowded by hikers and campers in holiday periods. At one end there is an irrigation dam while on the eastern shore line there is Hayat Durrani Water Sports Academy, the only water sports training center in Balochistan Province. The Hana Lake Development Authority, the Hayat Durrani Water Sports Academy and Merck Marker (Pvt.) Ltd have planted a range of trees in the Hanna Lake Mountains both for beautification and the protection of the environment.
The Hazarganji Chiltan National Park, 20 km (13 miles) south-west of Quetta, Markhors is a protected park area. The name of the park, "Hazarganji" literally means "Of a thousand treasures" is spread over 32,500 acres (132 km2) at an altitude ranging from 2,021 to 3,264 metres (5,625 to 10,700 feet). In the folds of the mountains, according to legend, there are over a thousand treasures buried, reminders of the passage over the ages of great armies including the Bactrians, the Scythians, the Muslims, and the Mongols.[citation needed] Pir Ghaib is a waterfall and picnic point located 70 km from the City Center on Sibi Road. Kharkhasa is located 10 km (6 miles) west of Quetta in a 16 km (10 miles) long narrow valley which contains a variety of flora and fauna species. The Chiltan Hill Viewpoint in the park provides a panoramic view over the city. A visit to the nearby cities of Kirani and Ziarat are popular scenic places for tourists traveling to and from Quetta.
The Quetta Geological Museum, located on Sariab Road has a collection of rocks and fossils found in Balochistan. The Command and Staff College Museum is a museum dedicated to British military history. It is housed in the former bungalow of Field Marshal Bernard Montgomery. The Quetta Archaeological Museum, located on Fifa Road has a collection of rare antique guns, swords, manuscripts and a display of Stone Age tools, prehistoric pottery and articles found in Mehrgarh. There are also coins, manuscripts and photos of Quetta before the 1935 earthquake. The Balochistan Arts Council Library is a newly opened facility which houses a variety of arts and crafts from Balochistan province.
A number of cultural and religious festivals are held in the city every year. The two Eid festivals which mark the end of fasting and the end of the Hajj allow the majority Muslim community to put on musical shows, distribute sweets and presents. Buzkashi is a peculiar festival celebrated by Pashtuns in which two teams on horse-back attempt to snatch a goat from each other.
Demography
Quetta, real name is Shaal (a Balochi word, شال Quetta District ), was historically part of the Khanate of Balochistan, Khan of Kalat, until it was invaded by the British Raj in the mid-19th century, during the First Anglo-Afghan War. The city in general is dominated by Baloch people and Pashtun people followed by Hazaras, Punjabi and others as the minority groups. Most of the Pashtun people in Quetta arrived after 1970s, from Afghanistan due to harsh economic conditions and later Soviet invasion.
Pashto is the main language spoken throughout the city. Other languages include Brahui, Balochi, Urdu, Hazaragi, Sindhi, and Punjabi. The city has expanded from a population of just 11,000 in 1891 to a total of between 565,137 to 676,941 according to the 1998 census which makes it the ninth biggest city in Pakistan.[14][15] Although the majority were repatriated back to Afghanistan through the UNHCR,[16] a small number of registered Afghan refugees are still to be found in and around the city but are not counted in the national census of Pakistan as they are citizens of Afghanistan deemed to be remaining in the country temporarily.
About 99% of the people are Muslims, that includes the majority Sunni sect and the minority Shias most of whom are the Hazaras. Christian, Hindu, and Sikh population are the other people living in the city.
Sports
The residents of the city are avid sports fans. In Quetta, unlike most of Pakistan, football rather than cricket is the most popular sport. Football teams from Quetta include Quetta Zorawar, Afghan Football, Hazara Green Football, Baluch Football and Quetta Bazigars Club. In cricket, Quetta is home to the Quetta Bears.
In field hockey, Quetta has produced Zeeshan Ashraf and Shakeel Abbasi, who are current members of the Pakistan national field hockey team. In mountain climbing and caving, Hayatullah Khan Durrani (Pride of Performance), the chief executive of Hayat Durrani Water Sports Academy at Hanna Lake. In Kayaking, Muhammad Abubakar Durrani, National Junior Champion was selected for the world Junior Canoeing Championship in 2009 in Moscow. In Boxing Olympians from Quetta include: Syed Agha Ibrar Shah,Abdul Salam Khan Kakar, Asghar Ali Changezi and Haider Ali Changezi. Weight lifting Dilawar Khan Khilji, Mohammad Rafiq Khan Khilji and Mohammad Alam Khan Kakar were the famous weightlifters.
In squash, Hiddy Jahan Khan was ranked among the top-6 players in the world from 1970 through to 1986. British Open champion Qamer Zaman also hails from Quetta. Other famous squash players include: Zarak Jahan Khan, Abdul Wali Khan Khilji, Hamayoon Khan Khilji, Zubair Jahan Khan, Shams ul Islam Khan Kakar, Tariq Rahim Khan Kakar and Shaied Zaman Khan. The Ayub National Stadium is the largest stadium in the city and the site of international cricket and football matches.
Very few people have seen the Hingol National Park in the Balochistan province of Pakistan. Its nearest approach is from Karachi. Most visitors tend to go to the Hinglaj temple, an important sight for Hindu pilgrims but we managed to go deep into the national park with the Offroad pakistan who have made numerous visits there. Their website is worth a look :- offroadpakistan.com/
Hingol National Park or Hungol National Park (Urdu: ہنگول) is the largest of National Parks of Pakistan. It is on the Makran coast in Balochistan and is approximately 190 km from Karachi. The area was declared reserved in 1988.[1]
The park area covers parts of the three districts: Lasbela, Gwadar and Owaran of Balochistan province. It contains a variety of topographical features and vegetation, varying from arid sub tropical forest in the north to arid montane in the west. Large tracts of the NP are covered with drift sand and can be classified as coastal semi desert. The National Park includes the estuary of the Hingol river which supports a significant diversity of bird and fish species.
Currently, 20 staff members including 18 game watchers, two deputy rangers are responsible for the management of the Park under the guidance of the park Manager who reports to the Conservator and the Secretary Wildlife, Forest, Livestock, Environment and Tourism.
The shrine of Devi Hinglaj, the holiest among the 51 Shakti Peeths of Hinduism is situated in the park. It is a 15km trek from the main road. There is also a dirt track that leads to the site. Several thousand pilgrims visit the shrine each year.
Detailed inventories of wildlife were undertaken in 2006 and will be completed in the first half of 2007. Hingol is known to support at least 35 species of mammals, 65 species of amphibians and reptiles and 185 species of birds. Some 250 plant species were recorded in the initial surveys including 7 yet undescribed species. Many more species are yet to be collected.
The park forms an excellent habitat to wild Sindh Ibex, Afghan Urial and Chinkara Gazelle. Ibex is found in all steep mountain ranges and numerous in the Hinglaj and Rodani Kacho Mountain areas. Total population is estimated over 3000. The Urial populations are small and occur in isolated populations. The Machi and Upper Pachhri Mountains harbour the largest populations. Total population is less than 1000. The Chinkara occurs in good numbers along the great rivers (Nal-Hingol, Arra, Babro-Mar) in the Northern Plains and in the Harian and Maniji-Gurangatti valley areas. Elsewhere populations have been extirpated are very low. The total populations are preliminary estimated between 800-1200.
The Hingol River banks, estuary and mudflats forms an important habitat for migratory birds. About 40% of the bird species is related to water habitats. Migratory birds listed to visit Hingol include Dalmatian and Spot-billed Pelican, Sociable Plover, Spoonbills, Black Ibis, Black and White Stork. The Houbara Bustard (Chlamydotis undulata) visits the plains and valleys.
The River Hingol has been nurturing crocodiles for centuries. The Marsh Crocodile (Crocodylus palustris) occurs over large areas along the Hingol-Nal and some tributaries up to more than 100 km inland. The total population is about 50. There are several beaches along the more than 100 km coastline, however few tirtles visit the beaches nowadays. Historical records includes Olive Ridley (Lepidochelys olivacea) and Green Marine Turtles (Chelonia mydas). The vulnerable Spiny Tail Lizard (Uromastyx hardwickii) a mainly vegetarian lizard finds its most western distribution in Hingol.
Mammals in the park include Leopard, Jungle Cat, Caracal and Indian Desert Cat, Indian Fox, Bengal Fox and Sand Fox, Golden Jackal, Sindh Ibex, Afghan Urial, Chinkara Gazelle, Honey Badger, Indian Pangolin, Hedgehog (probably more than one species), Indian Crested Porcupine, Indian Grey Mongoose, Five striped Palm Squirrel, Wild Boar, Cape Hare and Desert Hare, Cairo Spiny mouse, Grey Spiny Mouse, Persian Jird, Indian Desert Jird and Libyian Jird, House Mouse, Roof Rat, and Mouse like Hamster. Wolf (Canis lupus pallipes) and Striped Hyena (Hyaena hyaena) are on the brink of extinction. The Leopard and Caracal populations are low.
The park has very few caves/ grottos, including one in the Dhrun Mountains with a bat population.
Birds in the park include Houbara Bustard, Dalmatian and Spot-billed Pelican, Bonnelli's eagle, Imperial eagle, Tawny eagle, Golden eagle, Eurasian griffon vulture, Egyptian vulture, Cinereous vulture, Lagger falcon, Red-headed merlin, Kestrel, Close-Barred sandgrouse, Grey partridge, See See partridge, Stone Curlew, Indian sand grouse, Coronetted sand grouse, Painted sand grouse, Eagle owl, Sind pied woodpecker, Hume's chat, Brown rock pipit, Striped buning, Finche larks, Hoopoe, Shrikes and Wheatears.
The Marsh Crocodile, Olive Ridley and Green Marine Turtles, Desert Monitor lizard, Yellow Monitor lizard, and different species of lizard and chameleon have been found in the park.
The government is all set to slice land off the Hingol National Park, the country’s largest, as the Pakistan Air Force and another defence-related organisation eye the prized real estate near the estuary whose value is likely to increase phenomenally once the Gwadar port starts functioning.
Sources in the Balochistan revenue department told Dawn that while the PAF has asked for around 80,000 acres (320 km²), including 23,000 acres (93 km²) in the national park, Pakistan Space and Upper Atmosphere Research Commission’s demand is for eight mauzas. [2]
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baloch_people
The Baloch or Baluch (بلوچ) are an ethnic group that belong to the larger Iranian peoples. Baluch people mainly inhabit the Baluchestan region and Sistan and Baluchestan Province in the southeast corner of the Iranian plateau in Western Asia.
The Baloch people mainly speak Balochi, which is a branch of the Iranian languages, and more specifically of the North-western Iranian languages, that is highly influenced by that of Mesopotamia and shares similarities with Kurdish and other languages of the region. It also contains archaic features reminiscent of Old Persian and Avestan.[8] They inhabit mountainous terrains and deserts, and maintain a very distinct cultural identity.
About 60 percent of the Baloch live in Balochistan, a western province in the Islamic Republic of Pakistan.[9] Around 25 percent inhabit the eastern province of Sistan and Baluchestan Province in the Islamic Republic of Iran; a significant number of Baloch people also live in Sindh and South Punjab in Pakistan. Many of the rest live in Afghanistan, Turkmenistan, Oman, Bahrain, Kuwait and in some parts of Africa. Small communities of Baluch people also live in Europe (particularly Sweden) and in Perth, Australia, where they arrived in the 19th century.
Origins and history
Superimposed on modern borders, the Achaemenid Empire under Cyrus's rule extended approximately from Turkey, Israel, Georgia and Arabia in the west to Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, the Indus River and Oman in the east. Persia became the largest empire the world had ever seen.
In 334 BC, the Achaemenid empire fell from its western borders following Alexander's conquest. The last 30-day stand by Achaemenid forces was made at the Battle of the Persian Gate, around 825 kilometers from present-day Sistan va Baluchestan.[10]
This also includes the harsh desert path where previously Cyrus the Great and Semiramis are thought to have lost large portions of their army. These stories are thought to have inspired Alexander to do better than Cyrus and Semiramis.[11] Later Ferdowsi in his book "Shahnameh" Chapter 11 also mentions this desert path and tells the story of army of Kai Khosrow that decided to avoid the desert and instead took the road that leads toward Kelat for rest and refreshment where Kai Khosrow's brother Firoud had been the ruler.[12]
Today the economy of Makrani Baluch is largely based on use of the oceans; practices like designing boats and fishing are traditional to the Baluch. The ancient Mesopotamian text "Adapa and the Food of Life" mentions Adapa (a wise man and a priest) and fishing in the Persian Gulf as one of his sacred duties.[13]
The Baluch people of today are descendants of ancient Median and Persian tribes. Historical references of ancient Persia have made it possible to arrive at this conclusion. Maka is mentioned by Greek historian Herodotus as one of the early satraps of Cyrus the Great, who successfully united several ancient Iranian tribes to create an empire.[14][15] In the Behistun Inscription, Darius the Great mentions Maka as one of his eastern territories.[16] Darius is recorded to have personally led his elite forces, whose ranks were restricted to those with Persian, Mede or Elamite ancestry, to fight the invading Scythians of Asia[17] and then led the conquest towards the Indian sub-continent,[18][19][20] where he conquered Sindh in 519 BC, constituted it as his 20th Satrapy, and made use of the oceans there.[21][22] Darius wanted to know more about Asia, according to Herodotus; he also wished to know where the "Indus (which is the only river save one that produces crocodiles) emptied itself into the sea".[23] The present region of Makran, which is inhabited by Baluch people, derived its name from the word "Maka". The Babylonians had also made voyages using Maka to communicate with India.[24] Maka had also communicated with Euphrates, Tigris and Indus valley, objects from the Harappan culture have also been found in modern-day Oman, other archaeology suggest that Maka was exporting copper. Herodotus mentions the inhabitants of Maka as "Mykians" who were also previously involved in several conquests with Cyrus the Great and after the conquest of Egypt with Cambyses,[25] they went to Sindh in command of Darius I, and also took in army of Xerxes the great at the battle of Thermopylae, where they were dressed and equipped the same as Pactyans, Utians and Paricanians, the tribes adjacent to the Mykians. The word Maka later became Makran as it is common in closely related ancient Avestan and Old Persian languages to use "an" and "ran" at the end of plurals,[26] which then translates as "the land of Mykians". They are mentioned as "the men from Maka" in daeva inscriptions. The "daeva inscription" is one of the most important of all Achaemenid inscriptions; in the Baluchi language, dêw translates as "giant devil or monster". Mykians were also responsible for many inventions, such as qanats and underground drainage galleries that brought water from aquifers on the piedmont to gardens or palm groves on the plains. These inventions were important reasons behind the success of the Achaemenid Empire and survival of Mykians in their largely harsh natural environment. Other inscriptions also record that gold, silver, lapis lazuli, turquise, cornalin, cedar wood, wood and the decoration for the relief at Susa were from Maka.[27] The Mykians of the other side of ancient Maka, the present-day region of Balochistan and Sindh had later taken independence because they are not mentioned in the book written by Arrian of Nicomedia about campaigns of Alexander the Great but he only mentions the Oman side of Maka which he calls "Maketa". The reasons for this may have been the arguably unjust rule of Xerxes.[28][28][29] It is highly likely that the ancient Mykians were one of the Median or Persian tribes and an important part of Achaemenid empire, as they are not mentioned as one of the ancient Iranian tribes that Cyrus the Great and Darius I had fought with. Cyrus himself was of both Persian and Median ancestry as his father was Cambyses I, who is believed to have married Mandane of Media, the daughter of Astyages, a Median king.[30]
Historical evidence suggests that Baluch people were the ancient inhabitants of the Maka satrapy in Achaemenid empire. Baluch inhabiting the coastal areas in the region of Makran (Chabahar, Gwadar), Gulf (Oman, Kuwait, Bahrain) and Arabian Sea (Karachi and other parts of Sindh) and tribes including the Rind, Bizenjo, Brahvi and Gabol are highly skilled in designing boats, fishing and other skills required to survive in their environment. Herodotus also mentions that Darius had made use of the ocean in this region of Sindh. The Slemani Baloch who inhabit the region of Baluchistan including Makran—for example, tribes including the Brahvi, Marri, Bugti, Buzdar, Mazari, Mengal, Rind, Bizenjo, Hasni, Zehri, Dehwar and others—carry different skills to survive in their mostly mountainous environment and have a history of aggressive behavior towards invasions. These tribes are not confined to one specific location as they also contain sub-tribes and can be found all over the region.
The origins of the word "Baluch" are shrouded in controversy. According to German archaeologist and Iranologist Ernst Herzfeld, it is derived from the Median word brza-vaciya, which means "loud cry", while others claim the word derives from ancient Iranian languages.
Baluchi culture
The origins of Baluchi culture and traditions can be traced back to Mesopotamia, which is widely accepted as the origin of the Baluch people.
However, due to poverty and fear of radical Islamic organizations, cultural fashion has become very limited. Radical Islamic organizations have repeatedly targeted Baluch people, including bombing Baluchi cultural celebrations.
Baluchi customs and traditions are conducted according to codes imposed by tribal laws. These strong traditions and cultural values are important to Baluch people and have enabled them to keep their distinctive ancient cultural identity and way of life with little change to this day.
Baluchi culture is mentioned in the Pirmohamad M. Zehi's account of his travel to the province of Sakestan, or the present-day Sistan va Baluchistan province of Iran, which holds strong significance to the culture of Baluch people. Baluch people have preserved their traditional dress with little change over the centuries. The Baluch men wear long shirts with long sleeves and loose pants resembling the Achaemenid outfits of ancient Persians; the dress is occasionally accompanied by a turban or a hat on their heads. The dress worn by Baluch women is one of the most interesting aspects of Baluchi culture. They are of strong significance to the culture of Iran and hold a special place in the society. The women put on loose dress and pants with sophisticated and colorful needlework, including a large pocket at the front of the dress to hold their accessories. The upper part of the dress and sleeves are also decorated with needlework, a form of artistry that is specific to the clothing of the Baluch women. Often the dress also contains round or square pieces of glass to further enhance the presentation. They cover their hair with a scarf, called a sarig in the local dialect.[31] These customs are unique to the people of Iran and the art of this needlework on women's clothing may provide one with a picture of the freedom and high status of Baluchi women in Achaemenid era.[32] Gold ornaments such as necklaces and bracelets are an important aspect of Baluch women's traditions and among their most favored items of jewelry are dorr, heavy earrings that are fastened to the head with gold chains so that the heavy weight will not cause harm to the ears. They usually wear a gold brooch (tasni) that is made by local jewelers in different shapes and sizes and is used to fasten the two parts of the dress together over the chest. In ancient times, especially during the pre-Islamic era, it was common for Baluch women to perform dances and sing folk songs at different events. The tradition of a Baluch mother singing lullabies to her children has played an important role in the transfer of knowledge from generation to generation since ancient times. Apart from the dressing style of the Baluch, indigenous and local traditions and customs are also of great importance to the Baluch.[33]
Baluch people are culturally and traditionally regarded as secular. However, Baluch people are a minority, and growing Islamic fundamentalism in the region is seen as a threat to Baluchi culture. Other challenges include violations of basic human rights, psychological warfare, propaganda in mass media of their modern geography enabled by poverty, illiteracy and inaccessibility to information in the digital age.[34][35][36][37][38][39] According to Amnesty International, Baluch activists, politicians and student leaders are among those who have been targeted in forced disappearances, abductions, arbitrary arrests and cases of torture and other ill-treatment.[40] Islamic radical organizations such as 'Sepah-e-Shohada-e-Balochistan' and others[41] claims responsibility for killing Baluch nationalists in order to secure Islam and Pakistan. Bodies of missing Baluch student activists and nationalists are later found dumped with signs of severe torture. Baluch sources claim that these missing Baluch students and activists are picked up by civilian dressed officials who come with the Pakistan's security forces.[42]
Baluchi music
Folk music has always played a great role in Baluchi traditions. Baluchi music and instruments belong to the same branch of Iranian music performed by many other Iranian peoples including Persians, Kurds, Lurs, Tajiks and others. Traditions like the transfer of knowledge from generation to generation by singing lullabies to children and praising warriors also have a significant role in Baluchi music traditions. The fact that both men and women participate in folk music reflects on the pre-Islamic significance of folk music in Baluchi culture. Many years of invasions, wars and later adopted religious values have prevented Baluchi music from prevailing further in the 21st century[clarification needed]. However, a Swedish folk band, Golbang, has made progress in introducing Baluchi folk music to the Western world. The most commonly used instruments in Baluchi folk music are tanbur, long-necked lutes. Lutes have been present in Mesopotamia since the Akkadian era, or the third millennium BCE. The dohol, a large cylindrical drum with two skin heads, is the principal accompaniment for the surna, an ancient Iranian woodwind instrument that dates back to the Achaemenid Dynasty (550-330 BCE). The ney is also commonly played, using single or double flutes. The suroz, a Baluchi folk violin, is also commonly played. Other Baluchi musical instruments include the tar and the saz. Balochi music has also influenced Sindhi and Seraiki folk music.
Geographic distribution
The total population of ethnic Baloch people is estimated to be around 9 million worldwide. However, the exact number of those who are Baloch or claim to be of Baloch ancestry is difficult to determine. As of 2010, the Baloch are 4.97% of Pakistan's 177,276,594 million people.[43] They make up 2% of Afghanistan's roughly 30 million people[44] and 2% of Iran's estimated 67 million.[45]
Baluch ancestry is also claimed in the neighboring areas that adjoin Baluch majority lands. The Brahui are also considered Baloch but they speak the Brahui language. Despite very few cultural differences from the Baluch. Many Baluch outside of Balochistan are also bilingual or of mixed ancestry due to their proximity to other ethnic groups, including the Sindhis, Saraikis and Pashtuns. A large number of Baluch have been migrating to or living in provinces adjacent to Balochistan for centuries. In addition, there are many Baluch living in other parts of the world, with the bulk living in the GCC countries of the Persian Gulf. The Baluch are an important community in Oman, where they make up a sizable minority.
There is a small population of Baloch in several Western countries such as Sweden and Australia. Some Baloch settled in Australia in the 19th century; some fourth-generation Baloch still live there, mainly in the western city of Perth.
Baluch in Oman
The Baluch in Oman have maintained their ethnic and linguistic distinctions. The Southern Baloch comprise approximately 22% of the country's population. The traditional economy of Baluch in Oman is based on a combination of trade, farming and semi-nomadic shepherding.[46]
Baluchi language
The Balochi language is spoken in Iran, Pakistan, Afghanistan, the Persian Gulf Arab states, Turkmenistan, and as far as East Africa and some Western countries. It is classified as a member of the Iranian group of the Indo-European language family, which includes Kurdish, Persian, Pashto, Dari, Tajik and Ossetian. The Baluchi language has the closest similarities to Kurdish, Avestan, old Persian and other Iranian languages.
Two main dialects are spoken in Sistan va Baluchestan and Baluchestan: Eastern and Western. The exact number of Baluch speakers is difficult to know, but the estimated number could be around six million. The majority speak Western Baluchi, which is also the dialect that has been most widely used in Baluchi literature. Within the Western dialect are two further dialects, Rakhshani (spoken mainly in the northern areas) and Makkurani (in the south).[47]
The Baluch have several tribes and sub-tribes. Some of these tribes speak Brahui, while most speak Baluchi. Multilingualism is common, with many Baluch speaking both Brahui and Baluchi. The Marri tribe Domki and the Bugti tribe speak Baluchi. The Mengal tribe, who live in the Chagai, Khuzdar, Kharan districts of Balochistan and in southern parts of Afghanistan, speak Brahui. The Lango tribe, who live in central Balochistan in the Mangochar area, speak Baluchi as their first language and Brahui as their second. The Bizenjo tribe living in the Khuzdar, Nal, and parts of Makran, speak both languages, as do the Muhammadsanis. The Bangulzai tribe mostly speaks Brahui, but has a Baluchi-speaking minority (known as Garanis).
The Mazaris widely speak Baluchi or both dialects. The Malghani are part of the Nutkani tribe, which is the largest tribe in the tehsil. The Talpur, Mastoi, Jatoi, Gabol, Lashari, Chandio, Khushk, Khosa, Bozdar, Jiskani, Heesbani, Magsi, Zardari, Rind, Bhurgri, Jakhrani,MIRJAT,JAMALI and other Baluch tribes that settled in Sindh speak Sindhi, Baluchi and Saraiki. The Qaisrani Baluch living near Taunsa Sharif in the Punjab province of Pakistan speak Saraiki and Baluchi, while their clansmen living the Dera Ghazi Khan tribal areas speak Balochi. The Lund Baluch living in Shadan Lund speak Sindhi, Sairaki and Balochi. The Leghari, Lashari, Korai, and Kunara Baluch in the Dera Ismail Khan and Mianwali districts of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa speak Saraiki as their first language. The Tauqi Baloch in the Khara, Noshki, Chaghai and Washuk districts of Balochistan can speak both Baluchi and Brahui, but their primary language is Baluchi. The Buzdar are one of the largest tribes of Baloch in southern Punjab, living in the Koh-e-Suleman range.The Mashori are also one of the large tribe of Baloch in southern Punjab and in large area of Sindh.
This was the first ship with cargo to arrive at the port. It was a vessel from Canada carrying wheat.
Gwadar is located on the southwestern coast of Pakistan, close to the Strait of Hormuz on the Persian Gulf. More than 13 million bbl/d of oil pass through the Strait. It is strategically located between three increasingly important regions: the oil-rich Middle East, heavily populated South Asia and the economically emerging and resource-laden region of Central Asia. The Gwadar Port is expected to generate billions of dollars in revenues and create at least two million jobs.[2] In 2007, the government of Pakistan handed over port operations to PSA Singapore for 25 years, and gave it the status of a Tax Free Port for the following 40 years. There is also money invested into the port by the People's Republic of China. The strategic PRC plan to be engaged in many places along oil and gas roads is evident.[3]
The Makran region surrounding Gwadar was occupied by an ancient Bronze age people which settled in the few oases. It later became the Gedrosia region of the Achaemenid Persian empire. It is believed to have been conquered by the founder of the Persian empire, Cyrus the Great. The capital of the satrapy of Gedrosia was Pura, which is thought to have been located near the modern Bampûr, in Iranian Balochistan. During the homeward march of Alexander the Great, his admiral, Nearchus, led a fleet along the modern-day Makran coast and recorded that the area was dry, mountainous, and inhabited by the Ichthyophagoi (or "fish eaters"), an Greek rendering of the ancient Persian phrase "Mahi khoran" (which has itself become the modern word "Makran"). [4] After the collapse of Alexander's empire the area was ruled by Seleucus Nicator, one of Alexander’s generals. The region then came under "local rule" around about 303 BC.
The region remained on the sidelines of history for a millennium, until the Arab-Muslim army of Muhammad bin Qasim captured the town of Gwadar in AD 711 and over the intervening (and nearly equivalent) amount of time the area was contested by various powers, including the Mughals (from the east) and the Safavids (from the west). Portuguese explorers captured and sacked Gwadar in the late 16th century and this was then followed by almost two centuries of local rule by the various Balochi tribes. The city was visited by Ottoman Admiral Sidi Ali Reis in 1550s and mentioned in his book Mirat ul Memalik (The Mirror of Countries), 1557 CE [5]. According to Sidi Ali Reis, the inhabitants of Gwadar were Baloch and their chief was Malik Jelaleddin, son of Malik Dinar. In 1783, the Khan of Kalat granted suzerainty over Gwadar to Taimur Sultan, the defeated ruler of Muscat. [6] When the Sultan subsequently retook Muscat, he was to continue his rule in Gwadar by appointing a Wali (or "governor"). This Wali was then ordered to subjugate the nearby coastal town of Chah Bahar (in modern-day Iran), which ... The Gwadari fort was built during Omani rule, whilst telegraph lines were later extended into the town courtesy of HRM of the British.
In 1958, the Gwadar enclave was transferred to Pakistan. It was then made part of the Balochistan province In 2002, the Gwadar Port project (of building a large, deep-sea port) was begun in the town. The government of Pakistan intends to develop the entire area in order to reduce its reliance in shipping on the port of Karachi. In addition to expanding port facilities, the Project aims to build industrial complexes in the area and to connect the town via a modern highway to the rest of Pakistan. By the end of 2004 the first phase had been completed.
[edit] Culture
Gwadar's location and history have given it a unique blend of cultures. The Arabic influence upon Gwadar is strong as a consequence of the Omani era and the close proximity of other Arab-majority regions. The legacy of the Omani slave trade is observed in the population by the presence of residents which can trace their descent from the African slaves who were trafficked through the town (en route to destinations in the Muslim Far East. The area also has a remarkable religious diversity, being home to not only Sunni muslims, but also to groups of Christians, Hindus, Parsis, and various minorities such as the Qadianis.
Very few people have seen the Hingol National Park in the Balochistan province of Pakistan. Its nearest approach is from Karachi. Most visitors tend to go to the Hinglaj temple, an important sight for Hindu pilgrims but we managed to go deep into the national park with the Offroad pakistan who have made numerous visits there. Their website is worth a look :- offroadpakistan.com/
Hingol National Park or Hungol National Park (Urdu: ہنگول) is the largest of National Parks of Pakistan. It is on the Makran coast in Balochistan and is approximately 190 km from Karachi. The area was declared reserved in 1988.[1]
The park area covers parts of the three districts: Lasbela, Gwadar and Owaran of Balochistan province. It contains a variety of topographical features and vegetation, varying from arid sub tropical forest in the north to arid montane in the west. Large tracts of the NP are covered with drift sand and can be classified as coastal semi desert. The National Park includes the estuary of the Hingol river which supports a significant diversity of bird and fish species.
Currently, 20 staff members including 18 game watchers, two deputy rangers are responsible for the management of the Park under the guidance of the park Manager who reports to the Conservator and the Secretary Wildlife, Forest, Livestock, Environment and Tourism.
The shrine of Devi Hinglaj, the holiest among the 51 Shakti Peeths of Hinduism is situated in the park. It is a 15km trek from the main road. There is also a dirt track that leads to the site. Several thousand pilgrims visit the shrine each year.
Detailed inventories of wildlife were undertaken in 2006 and will be completed in the first half of 2007. Hingol is known to support at least 35 species of mammals, 65 species of amphibians and reptiles and 185 species of birds. Some 250 plant species were recorded in the initial surveys including 7 yet undescribed species. Many more species are yet to be collected.
The park forms an excellent habitat to wild Sindh Ibex, Afghan Urial and Chinkara Gazelle. Ibex is found in all steep mountain ranges and numerous in the Hinglaj and Rodani Kacho Mountain areas. Total population is estimated over 3000. The Urial populations are small and occur in isolated populations. The Machi and Upper Pachhri Mountains harbour the largest populations. Total population is less than 1000. The Chinkara occurs in good numbers along the great rivers (Nal-Hingol, Arra, Babro-Mar) in the Northern Plains and in the Harian and Maniji-Gurangatti valley areas. Elsewhere populations have been extirpated are very low. The total populations are preliminary estimated between 800-1200.
The Hingol River banks, estuary and mudflats forms an important habitat for migratory birds. About 40% of the bird species is related to water habitats. Migratory birds listed to visit Hingol include Dalmatian and Spot-billed Pelican, Sociable Plover, Spoonbills, Black Ibis, Black and White Stork. The Houbara Bustard (Chlamydotis undulata) visits the plains and valleys.
The River Hingol has been nurturing crocodiles for centuries. The Marsh Crocodile (Crocodylus palustris) occurs over large areas along the Hingol-Nal and some tributaries up to more than 100 km inland. The total population is about 50. There are several beaches along the more than 100 km coastline, however few tirtles visit the beaches nowadays. Historical records includes Olive Ridley (Lepidochelys olivacea) and Green Marine Turtles (Chelonia mydas). The vulnerable Spiny Tail Lizard (Uromastyx hardwickii) a mainly vegetarian lizard finds its most western distribution in Hingol.
Mammals in the park include Leopard, Jungle Cat, Caracal and Indian Desert Cat, Indian Fox, Bengal Fox and Sand Fox, Golden Jackal, Sindh Ibex, Afghan Urial, Chinkara Gazelle, Honey Badger, Indian Pangolin, Hedgehog (probably more than one species), Indian Crested Porcupine, Indian Grey Mongoose, Five striped Palm Squirrel, Wild Boar, Cape Hare and Desert Hare, Cairo Spiny mouse, Grey Spiny Mouse, Persian Jird, Indian Desert Jird and Libyian Jird, House Mouse, Roof Rat, and Mouse like Hamster. Wolf (Canis lupus pallipes) and Striped Hyena (Hyaena hyaena) are on the brink of extinction. The Leopard and Caracal populations are low.
The park has very few caves/ grottos, including one in the Dhrun Mountains with a bat population.
Birds in the park include Houbara Bustard, Dalmatian and Spot-billed Pelican, Bonnelli's eagle, Imperial eagle, Tawny eagle, Golden eagle, Eurasian griffon vulture, Egyptian vulture, Cinereous vulture, Lagger falcon, Red-headed merlin, Kestrel, Close-Barred sandgrouse, Grey partridge, See See partridge, Stone Curlew, Indian sand grouse, Coronetted sand grouse, Painted sand grouse, Eagle owl, Sind pied woodpecker, Hume's chat, Brown rock pipit, Striped buning, Finche larks, Hoopoe, Shrikes and Wheatears.
The Marsh Crocodile, Olive Ridley and Green Marine Turtles, Desert Monitor lizard, Yellow Monitor lizard, and different species of lizard and chameleon have been found in the park.
The government is all set to slice land off the Hingol National Park, the country’s largest, as the Pakistan Air Force and another defence-related organisation eye the prized real estate near the estuary whose value is likely to increase phenomenally once the Gwadar port starts functioning.
Sources in the Balochistan revenue department told Dawn that while the PAF has asked for around 80,000 acres (320 km²), including 23,000 acres (93 km²) in the national park, Pakistan Space and Upper Atmosphere Research Commission’s demand is for eight mauzas. [2]
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baloch_people
The Baloch or Baluch (بلوچ) are an ethnic group that belong to the larger Iranian peoples. Baluch people mainly inhabit the Baluchestan region and Sistan and Baluchestan Province in the southeast corner of the Iranian plateau in Western Asia.
The Baloch people mainly speak Balochi, which is a branch of the Iranian languages, and more specifically of the North-western Iranian languages, that is highly influenced by that of Mesopotamia and shares similarities with Kurdish and other languages of the region. It also contains archaic features reminiscent of Old Persian and Avestan.[8] They inhabit mountainous terrains and deserts, and maintain a very distinct cultural identity.
About 60 percent of the Baloch live in Balochistan, a western province in the Islamic Republic of Pakistan.[9] Around 25 percent inhabit the eastern province of Sistan and Baluchestan Province in the Islamic Republic of Iran; a significant number of Baloch people also live in Sindh and South Punjab in Pakistan. Many of the rest live in Afghanistan, Turkmenistan, Oman, Bahrain, Kuwait and in some parts of Africa. Small communities of Baluch people also live in Europe (particularly Sweden) and in Perth, Australia, where they arrived in the 19th century.
Origins and history
Superimposed on modern borders, the Achaemenid Empire under Cyrus's rule extended approximately from Turkey, Israel, Georgia and Arabia in the west to Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, the Indus River and Oman in the east. Persia became the largest empire the world had ever seen.
In 334 BC, the Achaemenid empire fell from its western borders following Alexander's conquest. The last 30-day stand by Achaemenid forces was made at the Battle of the Persian Gate, around 825 kilometers from present-day Sistan va Baluchestan.[10]
This also includes the harsh desert path where previously Cyrus the Great and Semiramis are thought to have lost large portions of their army. These stories are thought to have inspired Alexander to do better than Cyrus and Semiramis.[11] Later Ferdowsi in his book "Shahnameh" Chapter 11 also mentions this desert path and tells the story of army of Kai Khosrow that decided to avoid the desert and instead took the road that leads toward Kelat for rest and refreshment where Kai Khosrow's brother Firoud had been the ruler.[12]
Today the economy of Makrani Baluch is largely based on use of the oceans; practices like designing boats and fishing are traditional to the Baluch. The ancient Mesopotamian text "Adapa and the Food of Life" mentions Adapa (a wise man and a priest) and fishing in the Persian Gulf as one of his sacred duties.[13]
The Baluch people of today are descendants of ancient Median and Persian tribes. Historical references of ancient Persia have made it possible to arrive at this conclusion. Maka is mentioned by Greek historian Herodotus as one of the early satraps of Cyrus the Great, who successfully united several ancient Iranian tribes to create an empire.[14][15] In the Behistun Inscription, Darius the Great mentions Maka as one of his eastern territories.[16] Darius is recorded to have personally led his elite forces, whose ranks were restricted to those with Persian, Mede or Elamite ancestry, to fight the invading Scythians of Asia[17] and then led the conquest towards the Indian sub-continent,[18][19][20] where he conquered Sindh in 519 BC, constituted it as his 20th Satrapy, and made use of the oceans there.[21][22] Darius wanted to know more about Asia, according to Herodotus; he also wished to know where the "Indus (which is the only river save one that produces crocodiles) emptied itself into the sea".[23] The present region of Makran, which is inhabited by Baluch people, derived its name from the word "Maka". The Babylonians had also made voyages using Maka to communicate with India.[24] Maka had also communicated with Euphrates, Tigris and Indus valley, objects from the Harappan culture have also been found in modern-day Oman, other archaeology suggest that Maka was exporting copper. Herodotus mentions the inhabitants of Maka as "Mykians" who were also previously involved in several conquests with Cyrus the Great and after the conquest of Egypt with Cambyses,[25] they went to Sindh in command of Darius I, and also took in army of Xerxes the great at the battle of Thermopylae, where they were dressed and equipped the same as Pactyans, Utians and Paricanians, the tribes adjacent to the Mykians. The word Maka later became Makran as it is common in closely related ancient Avestan and Old Persian languages to use "an" and "ran" at the end of plurals,[26] which then translates as "the land of Mykians". They are mentioned as "the men from Maka" in daeva inscriptions. The "daeva inscription" is one of the most important of all Achaemenid inscriptions; in the Baluchi language, dêw translates as "giant devil or monster". Mykians were also responsible for many inventions, such as qanats and underground drainage galleries that brought water from aquifers on the piedmont to gardens or palm groves on the plains. These inventions were important reasons behind the success of the Achaemenid Empire and survival of Mykians in their largely harsh natural environment. Other inscriptions also record that gold, silver, lapis lazuli, turquise, cornalin, cedar wood, wood and the decoration for the relief at Susa were from Maka.[27] The Mykians of the other side of ancient Maka, the present-day region of Balochistan and Sindh had later taken independence because they are not mentioned in the book written by Arrian of Nicomedia about campaigns of Alexander the Great but he only mentions the Oman side of Maka which he calls "Maketa". The reasons for this may have been the arguably unjust rule of Xerxes.[28][28][29] It is highly likely that the ancient Mykians were one of the Median or Persian tribes and an important part of Achaemenid empire, as they are not mentioned as one of the ancient Iranian tribes that Cyrus the Great and Darius I had fought with. Cyrus himself was of both Persian and Median ancestry as his father was Cambyses I, who is believed to have married Mandane of Media, the daughter of Astyages, a Median king.[30]
Historical evidence suggests that Baluch people were the ancient inhabitants of the Maka satrapy in Achaemenid empire. Baluch inhabiting the coastal areas in the region of Makran (Chabahar, Gwadar), Gulf (Oman, Kuwait, Bahrain) and Arabian Sea (Karachi and other parts of Sindh) and tribes including the Rind, Bizenjo, Brahvi and Gabol are highly skilled in designing boats, fishing and other skills required to survive in their environment. Herodotus also mentions that Darius had made use of the ocean in this region of Sindh. The Slemani Baloch who inhabit the region of Baluchistan including Makran—for example, tribes including the Brahvi, Marri, Bugti, Buzdar, Mazari, Mengal, Rind, Bizenjo, Hasni, Zehri, Dehwar and others—carry different skills to survive in their mostly mountainous environment and have a history of aggressive behavior towards invasions. These tribes are not confined to one specific location as they also contain sub-tribes and can be found all over the region.
The origins of the word "Baluch" are shrouded in controversy. According to German archaeologist and Iranologist Ernst Herzfeld, it is derived from the Median word brza-vaciya, which means "loud cry", while others claim the word derives from ancient Iranian languages.
Baluchi culture
The origins of Baluchi culture and traditions can be traced back to Mesopotamia, which is widely accepted as the origin of the Baluch people.
However, due to poverty and fear of radical Islamic organizations, cultural fashion has become very limited. Radical Islamic organizations have repeatedly targeted Baluch people, including bombing Baluchi cultural celebrations.
Baluchi customs and traditions are conducted according to codes imposed by tribal laws. These strong traditions and cultural values are important to Baluch people and have enabled them to keep their distinctive ancient cultural identity and way of life with little change to this day.
Baluchi culture is mentioned in the Pirmohamad M. Zehi's account of his travel to the province of Sakestan, or the present-day Sistan va Baluchistan province of Iran, which holds strong significance to the culture of Baluch people. Baluch people have preserved their traditional dress with little change over the centuries. The Baluch men wear long shirts with long sleeves and loose pants resembling the Achaemenid outfits of ancient Persians; the dress is occasionally accompanied by a turban or a hat on their heads. The dress worn by Baluch women is one of the most interesting aspects of Baluchi culture. They are of strong significance to the culture of Iran and hold a special place in the society. The women put on loose dress and pants with sophisticated and colorful needlework, including a large pocket at the front of the dress to hold their accessories. The upper part of the dress and sleeves are also decorated with needlework, a form of artistry that is specific to the clothing of the Baluch women. Often the dress also contains round or square pieces of glass to further enhance the presentation. They cover their hair with a scarf, called a sarig in the local dialect.[31] These customs are unique to the people of Iran and the art of this needlework on women's clothing may provide one with a picture of the freedom and high status of Baluchi women in Achaemenid era.[32] Gold ornaments such as necklaces and bracelets are an important aspect of Baluch women's traditions and among their most favored items of jewelry are dorr, heavy earrings that are fastened to the head with gold chains so that the heavy weight will not cause harm to the ears. They usually wear a gold brooch (tasni) that is made by local jewelers in different shapes and sizes and is used to fasten the two parts of the dress together over the chest. In ancient times, especially during the pre-Islamic era, it was common for Baluch women to perform dances and sing folk songs at different events. The tradition of a Baluch mother singing lullabies to her children has played an important role in the transfer of knowledge from generation to generation since ancient times. Apart from the dressing style of the Baluch, indigenous and local traditions and customs are also of great importance to the Baluch.[33]
Baluch people are culturally and traditionally regarded as secular. However, Baluch people are a minority, and growing Islamic fundamentalism in the region is seen as a threat to Baluchi culture. Other challenges include violations of basic human rights, psychological warfare, propaganda in mass media of their modern geography enabled by poverty, illiteracy and inaccessibility to information in the digital age.[34][35][36][37][38][39] According to Amnesty International, Baluch activists, politicians and student leaders are among those who have been targeted in forced disappearances, abductions, arbitrary arrests and cases of torture and other ill-treatment.[40] Islamic radical organizations such as 'Sepah-e-Shohada-e-Balochistan' and others[41] claims responsibility for killing Baluch nationalists in order to secure Islam and Pakistan. Bodies of missing Baluch student activists and nationalists are later found dumped with signs of severe torture. Baluch sources claim that these missing Baluch students and activists are picked up by civilian dressed officials who come with the Pakistan's security forces.[42]
Baluchi music
Folk music has always played a great role in Baluchi traditions. Baluchi music and instruments belong to the same branch of Iranian music performed by many other Iranian peoples including Persians, Kurds, Lurs, Tajiks and others. Traditions like the transfer of knowledge from generation to generation by singing lullabies to children and praising warriors also have a significant role in Baluchi music traditions. The fact that both men and women participate in folk music reflects on the pre-Islamic significance of folk music in Baluchi culture. Many years of invasions, wars and later adopted religious values have prevented Baluchi music from prevailing further in the 21st century[clarification needed]. However, a Swedish folk band, Golbang, has made progress in introducing Baluchi folk music to the Western world. The most commonly used instruments in Baluchi folk music are tanbur, long-necked lutes. Lutes have been present in Mesopotamia since the Akkadian era, or the third millennium BCE. The dohol, a large cylindrical drum with two skin heads, is the principal accompaniment for the surna, an ancient Iranian woodwind instrument that dates back to the Achaemenid Dynasty (550-330 BCE). The ney is also commonly played, using single or double flutes. The suroz, a Baluchi folk violin, is also commonly played. Other Baluchi musical instruments include the tar and the saz. Balochi music has also influenced Sindhi and Seraiki folk music.
Geographic distribution
The total population of ethnic Baloch people is estimated to be around 9 million worldwide. However, the exact number of those who are Baloch or claim to be of Baloch ancestry is difficult to determine. As of 2010, the Baloch are 4.97% of Pakistan's 177,276,594 million people.[43] They make up 2% of Afghanistan's roughly 30 million people[44] and 2% of Iran's estimated 67 million.[45]
Baluch ancestry is also claimed in the neighboring areas that adjoin Baluch majority lands. The Brahui are also considered Baloch but they speak the Brahui language. Despite very few cultural differences from the Baluch. Many Baluch outside of Balochistan are also bilingual or of mixed ancestry due to their proximity to other ethnic groups, including the Sindhis, Saraikis and Pashtuns. A large number of Baluch have been migrating to or living in provinces adjacent to Balochistan for centuries. In addition, there are many Baluch living in other parts of the world, with the bulk living in the GCC countries of the Persian Gulf. The Baluch are an important community in Oman, where they make up a sizable minority.
There is a small population of Baloch in several Western countries such as Sweden and Australia. Some Baloch settled in Australia in the 19th century; some fourth-generation Baloch still live there, mainly in the western city of Perth.
Baluch in Oman
The Baluch in Oman have maintained their ethnic and linguistic distinctions. The Southern Baloch comprise approximately 22% of the country's population. The traditional economy of Baluch in Oman is based on a combination of trade, farming and semi-nomadic shepherding.[46]
Baluchi language
The Balochi language is spoken in Iran, Pakistan, Afghanistan, the Persian Gulf Arab states, Turkmenistan, and as far as East Africa and some Western countries. It is classified as a member of the Iranian group of the Indo-European language family, which includes Kurdish, Persian, Pashto, Dari, Tajik and Ossetian. The Baluchi language has the closest similarities to Kurdish, Avestan, old Persian and other Iranian languages.
Two main dialects are spoken in Sistan va Baluchestan and Baluchestan: Eastern and Western. The exact number of Baluch speakers is difficult to know, but the estimated number could be around six million. The majority speak Western Baluchi, which is also the dialect that has been most widely used in Baluchi literature. Within the Western dialect are two further dialects, Rakhshani (spoken mainly in the northern areas) and Makkurani (in the south).[47]
The Baluch have several tribes and sub-tribes. Some of these tribes speak Brahui, while most speak Baluchi. Multilingualism is common, with many Baluch speaking both Brahui and Baluchi. The Marri tribe Domki and the Bugti tribe speak Baluchi. The Mengal tribe, who live in the Chagai, Khuzdar, Kharan districts of Balochistan and in southern parts of Afghanistan, speak Brahui. The Lango tribe, who live in central Balochistan in the Mangochar area, speak Baluchi as their first language and Brahui as their second. The Bizenjo tribe living in the Khuzdar, Nal, and parts of Makran, speak both languages, as do the Muhammadsanis. The Bangulzai tribe mostly speaks Brahui, but has a Baluchi-speaking minority (known as Garanis).
The Mazaris widely speak Baluchi or both dialects. The Malghani are part of the Nutkani tribe, which is the largest tribe in the tehsil. The Talpur, Mastoi, Jatoi, Gabol, Lashari, Chandio, Khushk, Khosa, Bozdar, Jiskani, Heesbani, Magsi, Zardari, Rind, Bhurgri, Jakhrani,MIRJAT,JAMALI and other Baluch tribes that settled in Sindh speak Sindhi, Baluchi and Saraiki. The Qaisrani Baluch living near Taunsa Sharif in the Punjab province of Pakistan speak Saraiki and Baluchi, while their clansmen living the Dera Ghazi Khan tribal areas speak Balochi. The Lund Baluch living in Shadan Lund speak Sindhi, Sairaki and Balochi. The Leghari, Lashari, Korai, and Kunara Baluch in the Dera Ismail Khan and Mianwali districts of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa speak Saraiki as their first language. The Tauqi Baloch in the Khara, Noshki, Chaghai and Washuk districts of Balochistan can speak both Baluchi and Brahui, but their primary language is Baluchi. The Buzdar are one of the largest tribes of Baloch in southern Punjab, living in the Koh-e-Suleman range.The Mashori are also one of the large tribe of Baloch in southern Punjab and in large area of Sindh.
Hingol National Park or Hungol National Park (Urdu: ہنگول) is the largest of National Parks of Pakistan. It is on the Makran coast in Balochistan and is approximately 190 km from Karachi. The area was declared reserved in 1988.[1]
The park area covers parts of the three districts: Lasbela, Gwadar and Owaran of Balochistan province. It contains a variety of topographical features and vegetation, varying from arid sub tropical forest in the north to arid montane in the west. Large tracts of the NP are covered with drift sand and can be classified as coastal semi desert. The National Park includes the estuary of the Hingol river which supports a significant diversity of bird and fish species.
Currently, 20 staff members including 18 game watchers, two deputy rangers are responsible for the management of the Park under the guidance of the park Manager who reports to the Conservator and the Secretary Wildlife, Forest, Livestock, Environment and Tourism.
The shrine of Devi Hinglaj, the holiest among the 51 Shakti Peeths of Hinduism is situated in the park. It is a 15km trek from the main road. There is also a dirt track that leads to the site. Several thousand pilgrims visit the shrine each year.
Detailed inventories of wildlife were undertaken in 2006 and will be completed in the first half of 2007. Hingol is known to support at least 35 species of mammals, 65 species of amphibians and reptiles and 185 species of birds. Some 250 plant species were recorded in the initial surveys including 7 yet undescribed species. Many more species are yet to be collected.
The park forms an excellent habitat to wild Sindh Ibex, Afghan Urial and Chinkara Gazelle. Ibex is found in all steep mountain ranges and numerous in the Hinglaj and Rodani Kacho Mountain areas. Total population is estimated over 3000. The Urial populations are small and occur in isolated populations. The Machi and Upper Pachhri Mountains harbour the largest populations. Total population is less than 1000. The Chinkara occurs in good numbers along the great rivers (Nal-Hingol, Arra, Babro-Mar) in the Northern Plains and in the Harian and Maniji-Gurangatti valley areas. Elsewhere populations have been extirpated are very low. The total populations are preliminary estimated between 800-1200.
The Hingol River banks, estuary and mudflats forms an important habitat for migratory birds. About 40% of the bird species is related to water habitats. Migratory birds listed to visit Hingol include Dalmatian and Spot-billed Pelican, Sociable Plover, Spoonbills, Black Ibis, Black and White Stork. The Houbara Bustard (Chlamydotis undulata) visits the plains and valleys.
The River Hingol has been nurturing crocodiles for centuries. The Marsh Crocodile (Crocodylus palustris) occurs over large areas along the Hingol-Nal and some tributaries up to more than 100 km inland. The total population is about 50. There are several beaches along the more than 100 km coastline, however few tirtles visit the beaches nowadays. Historical records includes Olive Ridley (Lepidochelys olivacea) and Green Marine Turtles (Chelonia mydas). The vulnerable Spiny Tail Lizard (Uromastyx hardwickii) a mainly vegetarian lizard finds its most western distribution in Hingol.
Mammals in the park include Leopard, Jungle Cat, Caracal and Indian Desert Cat, Indian Fox, Bengal Fox and Sand Fox, Golden Jackal, Sindh Ibex, Afghan Urial, Chinkara Gazelle, Honey Badger, Indian Pangolin, Hedgehog (probably more than one species), Indian Crested Porcupine, Indian Grey Mongoose, Five striped Palm Squirrel, Wild Boar, Cape Hare and Desert Hare, Cairo Spiny mouse, Grey Spiny Mouse, Persian Jird, Indian Desert Jird and Libyian Jird, House Mouse, Roof Rat, and Mouse like Hamster. Wolf (Canis lupus pallipes) and Striped Hyena (Hyaena hyaena) are on the brink of extinction. The Leopard and Caracal populations are low.
The park has very few caves/ grottos, including one in the Dhrun Mountains with a bat population.
Birds in the park include Houbara Bustard, Dalmatian and Spot-billed Pelican, Bonnelli's eagle, Imperial eagle, Tawny eagle, Golden eagle, Eurasian griffon vulture, Egyptian vulture, Cinereous vulture, Lagger falcon, Red-headed merlin, Kestrel, Close-Barred sandgrouse, Grey partridge, See See partridge, Stone Curlew, Indian sand grouse, Coronetted sand grouse, Painted sand grouse, Eagle owl, Sind pied woodpecker, Hume's chat, Brown rock pipit, Striped buning, Finche larks, Hoopoe, Shrikes and Wheatears.
The Marsh Crocodile, Olive Ridley and Green Marine Turtles, Desert Monitor lizard, Yellow Monitor lizard, and different species of lizard and chameleon have been found in the park.
The government is all set to slice land off the Hingol National Park, the country’s largest, as the Pakistan Air Force and another defence-related organisation eye the prized real estate near the estuary whose value is likely to increase phenomenally once the Gwadar port starts functioning.
Sources in the Balochistan revenue department told Dawn that while the PAF has asked for around 80,000 acres (320 km²), including 23,000 acres (93 km²) in the national park, Pakistan Space and Upper Atmosphere Research Commission’s demand is for eight mauzas. [2]
Zaver Pearl Continental Hotel Gwadar, a Five Star Hotel situated on a cliff (Koh-e-Batil), overlooking the port, city and surrounded by azure Arabian waters. The hotel is equipped with all those features which are mark of the Hashoo Group. Brief summary of those features are as under:
Guest Rooms Facilities:
120 air conditioned guest rooms including suites, with balconies, located on four floors.
Provided with most modern facilities, including multi channel TV, fridge, safe and 24 hours room service.
Hi-TecH communication system including high speed internet connectivity.
Features:
24 hours coffee shop with seating capacity for 160 guests.
Specialty restaurant with seating capacity for 95 guests and 3 private dining rooms each accommodating 10 guests.
500 seats capacity Banquet Hall (can be sub-divided into two) with pre function space for 250 guests, availability of audio visual and provision of separate entrance.
Open air Bar-B-Q court
Business center with three secretarial offices and two meeting rooms, fully equipped with modern communication and audio visual equipments, dinning room / bar facility for 55 guests.
Male and female swimming pools with fully equipped health club.
Shopping arcade.
Meditation court.
Two high speed scenic elevators.
Spacious main lobby and ground floor.
Full laundry and dry cleaning services.
International standard fire safety and emergency systems.
Adequate car parking.
Beautifully landscaped surroundings with water bodies.
Very few people have seen the Hingol National Park in the Balochistan province of Pakistan. Its nearest approach is from Karachi. Most visitors tend to go to the Hinglaj temple, an important sight for Hindu pilgrims but we managed to go deep into the national park with the Offroad pakistan who have made numerous visits there. Their website is worth a look :- offroadpakistan.com/
Hingol National Park or Hungol National Park (Urdu: ہنگول) is the largest of National Parks of Pakistan. It is on the Makran coast in Balochistan and is approximately 190 km from Karachi. The area was declared reserved in 1988.[1]
The park area covers parts of the three districts: Lasbela, Gwadar and Owaran of Balochistan province. It contains a variety of topographical features and vegetation, varying from arid sub tropical forest in the north to arid montane in the west. Large tracts of the NP are covered with drift sand and can be classified as coastal semi desert. The National Park includes the estuary of the Hingol river which supports a significant diversity of bird and fish species.
Currently, 20 staff members including 18 game watchers, two deputy rangers are responsible for the management of the Park under the guidance of the park Manager who reports to the Conservator and the Secretary Wildlife, Forest, Livestock, Environment and Tourism.
The shrine of Devi Hinglaj, the holiest among the 51 Shakti Peeths of Hinduism is situated in the park. It is a 15km trek from the main road. There is also a dirt track that leads to the site. Several thousand pilgrims visit the shrine each year.
Detailed inventories of wildlife were undertaken in 2006 and will be completed in the first half of 2007. Hingol is known to support at least 35 species of mammals, 65 species of amphibians and reptiles and 185 species of birds. Some 250 plant species were recorded in the initial surveys including 7 yet undescribed species. Many more species are yet to be collected.
The park forms an excellent habitat to wild Sindh Ibex, Afghan Urial and Chinkara Gazelle. Ibex is found in all steep mountain ranges and numerous in the Hinglaj and Rodani Kacho Mountain areas. Total population is estimated over 3000. The Urial populations are small and occur in isolated populations. The Machi and Upper Pachhri Mountains harbour the largest populations. Total population is less than 1000. The Chinkara occurs in good numbers along the great rivers (Nal-Hingol, Arra, Babro-Mar) in the Northern Plains and in the Harian and Maniji-Gurangatti valley areas. Elsewhere populations have been extirpated are very low. The total populations are preliminary estimated between 800-1200.
The Hingol River banks, estuary and mudflats forms an important habitat for migratory birds. About 40% of the bird species is related to water habitats. Migratory birds listed to visit Hingol include Dalmatian and Spot-billed Pelican, Sociable Plover, Spoonbills, Black Ibis, Black and White Stork. The Houbara Bustard (Chlamydotis undulata) visits the plains and valleys.
The River Hingol has been nurturing crocodiles for centuries. The Marsh Crocodile (Crocodylus palustris) occurs over large areas along the Hingol-Nal and some tributaries up to more than 100 km inland. The total population is about 50. There are several beaches along the more than 100 km coastline, however few tirtles visit the beaches nowadays. Historical records includes Olive Ridley (Lepidochelys olivacea) and Green Marine Turtles (Chelonia mydas). The vulnerable Spiny Tail Lizard (Uromastyx hardwickii) a mainly vegetarian lizard finds its most western distribution in Hingol.
Mammals in the park include Leopard, Jungle Cat, Caracal and Indian Desert Cat, Indian Fox, Bengal Fox and Sand Fox, Golden Jackal, Sindh Ibex, Afghan Urial, Chinkara Gazelle, Honey Badger, Indian Pangolin, Hedgehog (probably more than one species), Indian Crested Porcupine, Indian Grey Mongoose, Five striped Palm Squirrel, Wild Boar, Cape Hare and Desert Hare, Cairo Spiny mouse, Grey Spiny Mouse, Persian Jird, Indian Desert Jird and Libyian Jird, House Mouse, Roof Rat, and Mouse like Hamster. Wolf (Canis lupus pallipes) and Striped Hyena (Hyaena hyaena) are on the brink of extinction. The Leopard and Caracal populations are low.
The park has very few caves/ grottos, including one in the Dhrun Mountains with a bat population.
Birds in the park include Houbara Bustard, Dalmatian and Spot-billed Pelican, Bonnelli's eagle, Imperial eagle, Tawny eagle, Golden eagle, Eurasian griffon vulture, Egyptian vulture, Cinereous vulture, Lagger falcon, Red-headed merlin, Kestrel, Close-Barred sandgrouse, Grey partridge, See See partridge, Stone Curlew, Indian sand grouse, Coronetted sand grouse, Painted sand grouse, Eagle owl, Sind pied woodpecker, Hume's chat, Brown rock pipit, Striped buning, Finche larks, Hoopoe, Shrikes and Wheatears.
The Marsh Crocodile, Olive Ridley and Green Marine Turtles, Desert Monitor lizard, Yellow Monitor lizard, and different species of lizard and chameleon have been found in the park.
The government is all set to slice land off the Hingol National Park, the country’s largest, as the Pakistan Air Force and another defence-related organisation eye the prized real estate near the estuary whose value is likely to increase phenomenally once the Gwadar port starts functioning.
Sources in the Balochistan revenue department told Dawn that while the PAF has asked for around 80,000 acres (320 km²), including 23,000 acres (93 km²) in the national park, Pakistan Space and Upper Atmosphere Research Commission’s demand is for eight mauzas. [2]
Koh-e-Murad (Persian: كوه مراد ) is a shrine, which is located in Turbat, Baluchistan. This is a sacred place for Zikris where they offered prayers for a long time. Zikris think that the founder of their religion, Syed Muhammad Janpuri (1443 - 1505 CE), The Imam E Aakhiruzamaa.n, visited this place.
The members of Zikri sect gather here at the night of 27th Ramadan for ziarat (literally 'a visit' in Arabic: زيارة) of this shrine.
The Zikri (Arabic: ذكرى) faith is an offshoot of Islam concentrated in Makran, Balochistan (Pakistan and Iran). The name Zikri comes from the Arabic word dhikr (pronounced "Zikr" in South Asia). The word is commonly used to describe Sufi worship.
They are generally regarded as heretical by mainstream Muslims. Zikris, like mainstream Muslims, are religiously obligated to pray five times daily. However, the content of their prayers, which they call Zikr, differs from the orthodox practice of Salah. Although Mahdavi, the direct followers of Syed Mohammad Jaunpuri offer prayers according to the Sunnah and follow Sunnah which was practised and stressed by the saint. Syed Mohammed Jaunpuri would strictly adhere to the Sunnah of Prophet and accordingly the commandments in the Qur'an. The Mahdavis perform Hajj and even Umrah.
The Zikris, however, do not perform the standard Islamic Hajj, but instead make pilgrimage (ziyarat) to a shrine called Koh-e-Murad (Mountain of Desire), in Persian). The shrine is located in the city of Turbat in Balochistan. They do ziyarat on the 27th night of Ramadan.
Most Zikris live in Baluchistan, where they are the majority religious group in the district of Gwadar. There are also large groups of Zikris in the Pakistani city of Karachi, the Pakistani province of Sindh, and in Iran. Many of the other smaller groups live in Karachi and Makran, although the Zikris, for example, are predominantly in south-western Baluchistan where their spiritual center, Koh-i-Murad, is located. However, they are becoming less visible, fearing that they will also be designated a ‘minority’, against their will.
The Zikris of Balochistan – a predominantly Baloch ethnic group in Makran and the adjoining areas – fear they will suffer the fate of the Ahmadis, as there are demands from certain groups for their designation as a non-Muslim minority. The Zikris are an under-researched community. However, many Baloch nationalist leaders and writers have expressed solidarity with the Zikris, considering them the ‘archetypal Baloch’.
Zikris believe in Syed Muhammad Jaunpuri (1443-1504), "but i as a Zekri my self say that we and all other Zekri believe in the 12th imam, Imam Mehdi the Akhir u Zaman" and we really believe that he has came into this world as our Shia brothers say in their books and some of the muslims belives in" But many don't, as the promised mehdi who emphasized on the purity and formalism in Islam. The faith stresses on abstinence, seclusion, contentment and invocation of divine names, or Zikir-i-Khatir.
Zikirs participate in their annual congregation at Turbat, at the end of the Ramzan (ramadan), every year. Some scholars consider this annual rite in Koh-i-Murad near Turbat, as the surviving remnant of daira system. It is, according to Zikirs, in no way a substitute for the Muslim annual pilgrimage to Kaaba, as their detractors claim.
Most Zikris are poor peasants or nomads who enjoy coming to Koh-i-Murad as others elsewhere enjoy visiting shrines. The number of Zikris is not known since they identify themselves as Muslims. It is estimated that there are several million living in Pakistan, India and Iran. (The Zikri community is deemed as a member of the 4 million-strong Mahdawis in India.) In addition, there are huge Zikri communities in Karachi, Las Bela and Quetta. There are more Zikri Baloch in Karachi than anywhere else, but many have recently migrated for economic reasons, while staying in touch with their native Makran.
The cultural and commercial significance of the Zikri festivals is considerable. Zikri intellectuals challenge Sunnis’ and others’ claims regarding their faith. However, their religious leaders – Malais – believe that the Zikri prayer is ‘a bit different than the others’. Some locals do not consider them to be heretically different from other Muslim orders and finds similarities with many other doctrinal interpretations. Their zikr khanas – they have few places of worship, unlike the growing number of mosques across Makran – are like mosques but do not have pulpits pointing towards Mecca. Instead, there are stones and mats on which they sit and do the zikr. However, on a visit to the prayer places at Koh-i-Murad, a few copies of the Qur’an were found on the shelves. The Sunni/Namazi Muslims, belonging to the JUI and JI have attacked Zikris for being a ‘heretic sect’, and campaigns have been mounted to stop Zikris from congregating at Koh-i-Murad. Recently, police protection has been provided to Zikri visitors. To many observers, the emphasis on reconversion or designation as a non-Muslim minority is linked with the growing accent on Islam in Pakistan since Zia and since Khomeini in neighboring Iran.
Zikris had traditionally been victimized in Iran and in Afghani Balochistan, and the recent emphasis on Sunni and scripturalist Islam encouraged the JUI to make inroads into Baloch regions. There are demands for Zikris to be declared a non-Muslim minority. The Zikri status remains unchanged but they are scared and thus find solidarity with a secular version of Baloch ethnicity. NGOs, including the Human Rights Commission of Pakistan (HRCP), and local activists are creating a greater awareness of the Zikri predicament and aim to forestall a majoritarian backlash against this scattered and impoverished community.
Very few people have seen the Hingol National Park in the Balochistan province of Pakistan. Its nearest approach is from Karachi. Most visitors tend to go to the Hinglaj temple, an important sight for Hindu pilgrims but we managed to go deep into the national park with the Offroad pakistan who have made numerous visits there. Their website is worth a look :- offroadpakistan.com/
Hingol National Park or Hungol National Park (Urdu: ہنگول) is the largest of National Parks of Pakistan. It is on the Makran coast in Balochistan and is approximately 190 km from Karachi. The area was declared reserved in 1988.[1]
The park area covers parts of the three districts: Lasbela, Gwadar and Owaran of Balochistan province. It contains a variety of topographical features and vegetation, varying from arid sub tropical forest in the north to arid montane in the west. Large tracts of the NP are covered with drift sand and can be classified as coastal semi desert. The National Park includes the estuary of the Hingol river which supports a significant diversity of bird and fish species.
Currently, 20 staff members including 18 game watchers, two deputy rangers are responsible for the management of the Park under the guidance of the park Manager who reports to the Conservator and the Secretary Wildlife, Forest, Livestock, Environment and Tourism.
The shrine of Devi Hinglaj, the holiest among the 51 Shakti Peeths of Hinduism is situated in the park. It is a 15km trek from the main road. There is also a dirt track that leads to the site. Several thousand pilgrims visit the shrine each year.
Detailed inventories of wildlife were undertaken in 2006 and will be completed in the first half of 2007. Hingol is known to support at least 35 species of mammals, 65 species of amphibians and reptiles and 185 species of birds. Some 250 plant species were recorded in the initial surveys including 7 yet undescribed species. Many more species are yet to be collected.
The park forms an excellent habitat to wild Sindh Ibex, Afghan Urial and Chinkara Gazelle. Ibex is found in all steep mountain ranges and numerous in the Hinglaj and Rodani Kacho Mountain areas. Total population is estimated over 3000. The Urial populations are small and occur in isolated populations. The Machi and Upper Pachhri Mountains harbour the largest populations. Total population is less than 1000. The Chinkara occurs in good numbers along the great rivers (Nal-Hingol, Arra, Babro-Mar) in the Northern Plains and in the Harian and Maniji-Gurangatti valley areas. Elsewhere populations have been extirpated are very low. The total populations are preliminary estimated between 800-1200.
The Hingol River banks, estuary and mudflats forms an important habitat for migratory birds. About 40% of the bird species is related to water habitats. Migratory birds listed to visit Hingol include Dalmatian and Spot-billed Pelican, Sociable Plover, Spoonbills, Black Ibis, Black and White Stork. The Houbara Bustard (Chlamydotis undulata) visits the plains and valleys.
The River Hingol has been nurturing crocodiles for centuries. The Marsh Crocodile (Crocodylus palustris) occurs over large areas along the Hingol-Nal and some tributaries up to more than 100 km inland. The total population is about 50. There are several beaches along the more than 100 km coastline, however few tirtles visit the beaches nowadays. Historical records includes Olive Ridley (Lepidochelys olivacea) and Green Marine Turtles (Chelonia mydas). The vulnerable Spiny Tail Lizard (Uromastyx hardwickii) a mainly vegetarian lizard finds its most western distribution in Hingol.
Mammals in the park include Leopard, Jungle Cat, Caracal and Indian Desert Cat, Indian Fox, Bengal Fox and Sand Fox, Golden Jackal, Sindh Ibex, Afghan Urial, Chinkara Gazelle, Honey Badger, Indian Pangolin, Hedgehog (probably more than one species), Indian Crested Porcupine, Indian Grey Mongoose, Five striped Palm Squirrel, Wild Boar, Cape Hare and Desert Hare, Cairo Spiny mouse, Grey Spiny Mouse, Persian Jird, Indian Desert Jird and Libyian Jird, House Mouse, Roof Rat, and Mouse like Hamster. Wolf (Canis lupus pallipes) and Striped Hyena (Hyaena hyaena) are on the brink of extinction. The Leopard and Caracal populations are low.
The park has very few caves/ grottos, including one in the Dhrun Mountains with a bat population.
Birds in the park include Houbara Bustard, Dalmatian and Spot-billed Pelican, Bonnelli's eagle, Imperial eagle, Tawny eagle, Golden eagle, Eurasian griffon vulture, Egyptian vulture, Cinereous vulture, Lagger falcon, Red-headed merlin, Kestrel, Close-Barred sandgrouse, Grey partridge, See See partridge, Stone Curlew, Indian sand grouse, Coronetted sand grouse, Painted sand grouse, Eagle owl, Sind pied woodpecker, Hume's chat, Brown rock pipit, Striped buning, Finche larks, Hoopoe, Shrikes and Wheatears.
The Marsh Crocodile, Olive Ridley and Green Marine Turtles, Desert Monitor lizard, Yellow Monitor lizard, and different species of lizard and chameleon have been found in the park.
The government is all set to slice land off the Hingol National Park, the country’s largest, as the Pakistan Air Force and another defence-related organisation eye the prized real estate near the estuary whose value is likely to increase phenomenally once the Gwadar port starts functioning.
Sources in the Balochistan revenue department told Dawn that while the PAF has asked for around 80,000 acres (320 km²), including 23,000 acres (93 km²) in the national park, Pakistan Space and Upper Atmosphere Research Commission’s demand is for eight mauzas. [2]
Kech has been very much popular for a love story of Punnu and Sassi. Punnu was a Hoth prince remnant of whose miri (fort) can still be seen near Turbat, and Sassi was his beloved. Many folklore have been written about this legend in all the local languages.
It is thought that Punnu fort could date back to 6000-8000 BC.
The town is located in southwest of the Balochistan province in Pakistan it is situated on the left bank of the Kech River, which is a tributary to the Dasht River. The Makran Range to the north and east descends to coastal plains in the south. The town is a marketplace for dates grown in the surrounding region and has a date-processing factory. Jowar (sorghum), barley, wheat, and rice are also grown, and livestock are raised.
Turbat was ruled since ancient times by the Gichki Tribes of Makran. It was then the headquarter of the Makran State and the Gichki Nawab of Makran was residing in Shahi Tump Near Turbat.When the Makran State was dissolved, Turbat city still remained the Division Head Quarter.
Turbat has a domestic airport which offers direct flights to Gwadar and Karachi. The road network links Turbat with Panjgur and Kalat to the northwest and Pasni to the southeast and to Karachi in the East.
Very few people have seen the Hingol National Park in the Balochistan province of Pakistan. Its nearest approach is from Karachi. Most visitors tend to go to the Hinglaj temple, an important sight for Hindu pilgrims but we managed to go deep into the national park with the Offroad pakistan who have made numerous visits there. Their website is worth a look :- offroadpakistan.com/
Hingol National Park or Hungol National Park (Urdu: ہنگول) is the largest of National Parks of Pakistan. It is on the Makran coast in Balochistan and is approximately 190 km from Karachi. The area was declared reserved in 1988.[1]
The park area covers parts of the three districts: Lasbela, Gwadar and Owaran of Balochistan province. It contains a variety of topographical features and vegetation, varying from arid sub tropical forest in the north to arid montane in the west. Large tracts of the NP are covered with drift sand and can be classified as coastal semi desert. The National Park includes the estuary of the Hingol river which supports a significant diversity of bird and fish species.
Currently, 20 staff members including 18 game watchers, two deputy rangers are responsible for the management of the Park under the guidance of the park Manager who reports to the Conservator and the Secretary Wildlife, Forest, Livestock, Environment and Tourism.
The shrine of Devi Hinglaj, the holiest among the 51 Shakti Peeths of Hinduism is situated in the park. It is a 15km trek from the main road. There is also a dirt track that leads to the site. Several thousand pilgrims visit the shrine each year.
Detailed inventories of wildlife were undertaken in 2006 and will be completed in the first half of 2007. Hingol is known to support at least 35 species of mammals, 65 species of amphibians and reptiles and 185 species of birds. Some 250 plant species were recorded in the initial surveys including 7 yet undescribed species. Many more species are yet to be collected.
The park forms an excellent habitat to wild Sindh Ibex, Afghan Urial and Chinkara Gazelle. Ibex is found in all steep mountain ranges and numerous in the Hinglaj and Rodani Kacho Mountain areas. Total population is estimated over 3000. The Urial populations are small and occur in isolated populations. The Machi and Upper Pachhri Mountains harbour the largest populations. Total population is less than 1000. The Chinkara occurs in good numbers along the great rivers (Nal-Hingol, Arra, Babro-Mar) in the Northern Plains and in the Harian and Maniji-Gurangatti valley areas. Elsewhere populations have been extirpated are very low. The total populations are preliminary estimated between 800-1200.
The Hingol River banks, estuary and mudflats forms an important habitat for migratory birds. About 40% of the bird species is related to water habitats. Migratory birds listed to visit Hingol include Dalmatian and Spot-billed Pelican, Sociable Plover, Spoonbills, Black Ibis, Black and White Stork. The Houbara Bustard (Chlamydotis undulata) visits the plains and valleys.
The River Hingol has been nurturing crocodiles for centuries. The Marsh Crocodile (Crocodylus palustris) occurs over large areas along the Hingol-Nal and some tributaries up to more than 100 km inland. The total population is about 50. There are several beaches along the more than 100 km coastline, however few tirtles visit the beaches nowadays. Historical records includes Olive Ridley (Lepidochelys olivacea) and Green Marine Turtles (Chelonia mydas). The vulnerable Spiny Tail Lizard (Uromastyx hardwickii) a mainly vegetarian lizard finds its most western distribution in Hingol.
Mammals in the park include Leopard, Jungle Cat, Caracal and Indian Desert Cat, Indian Fox, Bengal Fox and Sand Fox, Golden Jackal, Sindh Ibex, Afghan Urial, Chinkara Gazelle, Honey Badger, Indian Pangolin, Hedgehog (probably more than one species), Indian Crested Porcupine, Indian Grey Mongoose, Five striped Palm Squirrel, Wild Boar, Cape Hare and Desert Hare, Cairo Spiny mouse, Grey Spiny Mouse, Persian Jird, Indian Desert Jird and Libyian Jird, House Mouse, Roof Rat, and Mouse like Hamster. Wolf (Canis lupus pallipes) and Striped Hyena (Hyaena hyaena) are on the brink of extinction. The Leopard and Caracal populations are low.
The park has very few caves/ grottos, including one in the Dhrun Mountains with a bat population.
Birds in the park include Houbara Bustard, Dalmatian and Spot-billed Pelican, Bonnelli's eagle, Imperial eagle, Tawny eagle, Golden eagle, Eurasian griffon vulture, Egyptian vulture, Cinereous vulture, Lagger falcon, Red-headed merlin, Kestrel, Close-Barred sandgrouse, Grey partridge, See See partridge, Stone Curlew, Indian sand grouse, Coronetted sand grouse, Painted sand grouse, Eagle owl, Sind pied woodpecker, Hume's chat, Brown rock pipit, Striped buning, Finche larks, Hoopoe, Shrikes and Wheatears.
The Marsh Crocodile, Olive Ridley and Green Marine Turtles, Desert Monitor lizard, Yellow Monitor lizard, and different species of lizard and chameleon have been found in the park.
The government is all set to slice land off the Hingol National Park, the country’s largest, as the Pakistan Air Force and another defence-related organisation eye the prized real estate near the estuary whose value is likely to increase phenomenally once the Gwadar port starts functioning.
Sources in the Balochistan revenue department told Dawn that while the PAF has asked for around 80,000 acres (320 km²), including 23,000 acres (93 km²) in the national park, Pakistan Space and Upper Atmosphere Research Commission’s demand is for eight mauzas. [2]
Very few people have seen the Hingol National Park in the Balochistan province of Pakistan. Its nearest approach is from Karachi. Most visitors tend to go to the Hinglaj temple, an important sight for Hindu pilgrims but we managed to go deep into the national park with the Offroad pakistan who have made numerous visits there. Their website is worth a look :- offroadpakistan.com/
Hingol National Park or Hungol National Park (Urdu: ہنگول) is the largest of National Parks of Pakistan. It is on the Makran coast in Balochistan and is approximately 190 km from Karachi. The area was declared reserved in 1988.[1]
The park area covers parts of the three districts: Lasbela, Gwadar and Owaran of Balochistan province. It contains a variety of topographical features and vegetation, varying from arid sub tropical forest in the north to arid montane in the west. Large tracts of the NP are covered with drift sand and can be classified as coastal semi desert. The National Park includes the estuary of the Hingol river which supports a significant diversity of bird and fish species.
Currently, 20 staff members including 18 game watchers, two deputy rangers are responsible for the management of the Park under the guidance of the park Manager who reports to the Conservator and the Secretary Wildlife, Forest, Livestock, Environment and Tourism.
The shrine of Devi Hinglaj, the holiest among the 51 Shakti Peeths of Hinduism is situated in the park. It is a 15km trek from the main road. There is also a dirt track that leads to the site. Several thousand pilgrims visit the shrine each year.
Detailed inventories of wildlife were undertaken in 2006 and will be completed in the first half of 2007. Hingol is known to support at least 35 species of mammals, 65 species of amphibians and reptiles and 185 species of birds. Some 250 plant species were recorded in the initial surveys including 7 yet undescribed species. Many more species are yet to be collected.
The park forms an excellent habitat to wild Sindh Ibex, Afghan Urial and Chinkara Gazelle. Ibex is found in all steep mountain ranges and numerous in the Hinglaj and Rodani Kacho Mountain areas. Total population is estimated over 3000. The Urial populations are small and occur in isolated populations. The Machi and Upper Pachhri Mountains harbour the largest populations. Total population is less than 1000. The Chinkara occurs in good numbers along the great rivers (Nal-Hingol, Arra, Babro-Mar) in the Northern Plains and in the Harian and Maniji-Gurangatti valley areas. Elsewhere populations have been extirpated are very low. The total populations are preliminary estimated between 800-1200.
The Hingol River banks, estuary and mudflats forms an important habitat for migratory birds. About 40% of the bird species is related to water habitats. Migratory birds listed to visit Hingol include Dalmatian and Spot-billed Pelican, Sociable Plover, Spoonbills, Black Ibis, Black and White Stork. The Houbara Bustard (Chlamydotis undulata) visits the plains and valleys.
The River Hingol has been nurturing crocodiles for centuries. The Marsh Crocodile (Crocodylus palustris) occurs over large areas along the Hingol-Nal and some tributaries up to more than 100 km inland. The total population is about 50. There are several beaches along the more than 100 km coastline, however few tirtles visit the beaches nowadays. Historical records includes Olive Ridley (Lepidochelys olivacea) and Green Marine Turtles (Chelonia mydas). The vulnerable Spiny Tail Lizard (Uromastyx hardwickii) a mainly vegetarian lizard finds its most western distribution in Hingol.
Mammals in the park include Leopard, Jungle Cat, Caracal and Indian Desert Cat, Indian Fox, Bengal Fox and Sand Fox, Golden Jackal, Sindh Ibex, Afghan Urial, Chinkara Gazelle, Honey Badger, Indian Pangolin, Hedgehog (probably more than one species), Indian Crested Porcupine, Indian Grey Mongoose, Five striped Palm Squirrel, Wild Boar, Cape Hare and Desert Hare, Cairo Spiny mouse, Grey Spiny Mouse, Persian Jird, Indian Desert Jird and Libyian Jird, House Mouse, Roof Rat, and Mouse like Hamster. Wolf (Canis lupus pallipes) and Striped Hyena (Hyaena hyaena) are on the brink of extinction. The Leopard and Caracal populations are low.
The park has very few caves/ grottos, including one in the Dhrun Mountains with a bat population.
Birds in the park include Houbara Bustard, Dalmatian and Spot-billed Pelican, Bonnelli's eagle, Imperial eagle, Tawny eagle, Golden eagle, Eurasian griffon vulture, Egyptian vulture, Cinereous vulture, Lagger falcon, Red-headed merlin, Kestrel, Close-Barred sandgrouse, Grey partridge, See See partridge, Stone Curlew, Indian sand grouse, Coronetted sand grouse, Painted sand grouse, Eagle owl, Sind pied woodpecker, Hume's chat, Brown rock pipit, Striped buning, Finche larks, Hoopoe, Shrikes and Wheatears.
The Marsh Crocodile, Olive Ridley and Green Marine Turtles, Desert Monitor lizard, Yellow Monitor lizard, and different species of lizard and chameleon have been found in the park.
The government is all set to slice land off the Hingol National Park, the country’s largest, as the Pakistan Air Force and another defence-related organisation eye the prized real estate near the estuary whose value is likely to increase phenomenally once the Gwadar port starts functioning.
Sources in the Balochistan revenue department told Dawn that while the PAF has asked for around 80,000 acres (320 km²), including 23,000 acres (93 km²) in the national park, Pakistan Space and Upper Atmosphere Research Commission’s demand is for eight mauzas. [2]
Hinglaj (Sindhi: هنگلاج, Urdu: ﮨنگلاج, Sanskrit: हिङ्ग्लाज, Hindi: हिंगलाज) is an important Hindu pilgrimage place in Balochistan, Pakistan and Kuldevi of Kshatriya Bhavsar Community. It is situated in Balochistan province about 250 km north of Karachi.[1]
Mythological Origin
When Lord Vishnu cut up the body of Sati into 51 pieces so that Lord Shiva would calm down and stop his Tandava, the pieces were scattered over various places of the Indian subcontinent. It is said that the head of Sati fell at Hingula or Hinglaj and is thus considered the most important of the 51 Shakti Peeths. At each of the Peeths, Bhairava (a manifestation of Shiva) accompanies the relics. The Bhairava at Hinglaj is called Bhimalochana, located in Koteshwar, Kutch. The Sanskrit texts mention the part as 'Brahmadreya' or vital essence. For details, see this.
In the Ramayana, after slaying Ravana, Lord Ram came to Hinglaj to atone for his sin of 'Brahmhatya' (killing a Brahmin). Ravana was a Brahmin and a great devotee of Lord Shiva and Durga. Lord Ram meditated at Hinglaj as it was a very important shrine.
The mantra or incantation for Devi Hinglaj is attributed to Saint Dadhichi, an important saint in Hindu mythology. The mantra is :
ॐ हिंगुले परमहिंगुले अमृतरूपिणि तनुशक्ति
मनः शिवे श्री हिंगुलाय नमः स्वाहा
OM HINGULE PARAM HINGULE AMRUTRUPINI TANU SHAKTI
MANAH SHIVE SHREE HINGULAI NAMAH SWAHA
Translation : "Oh Hingula Devi, she who holds nectar in her self and is power incarnate. She who is one with Lord Shiva, to her we pay our respects and make this offering (swaha)."
Yet another incarnation:
ब्रह्मरंध्रम् हिंगुलायाम् भैरवो भीमलोचन: |
कोट्टरी सा महामाया त्रिगुणा या दिगम्बरी ||
BRAHMARANDHRAM HINGULAAYAAM BHAIRAVO VIMALOCHANAH
KOTTARI SAA MAHAAMAAYAA TRIGUNAA YAA DIGAMVARI
Translation : "Mahaamaayaa (Queen of Illusions) who represents the supreme virtue by reigning over all three virtues, has Bhimalochana as her Bhairava, and derides the worldly trappings by dancing naked, resides in this cave of Hingula that enshrines her sacred head."
Geographical Location
Hinglaj is situated in the Balochistan province of Pakistan. It is near the peak of one of the mountains of the Makran range. It is approximately 120 km from the Indus River Delta and 20 km from the Arabian Sea. The area is extremely arid and the pilgrimage also called 'Nani ki Haj' by local Muslims takes place before summer. The pilgrimage starts at a place near the Hao river which is 10 km from Karachi.
The name of Hinglaj lends itself to the Hingol river, the largest in Balochistan and the Hingol National Park which at 6,200 square kilometers is the largest in Pakistan.
Since it is located in a desert which is called Maru in Sanskrit, the shrine is referred to in holy texts as "Marutirtha Hinglaj" which means Hinglaj, the Shrine of the desert. "Marutirtha Hinglaj" is also the name of a Bengali novel by Kalikananda Abadhut who made a pilgrimage to Hinglaj and Koteshwar. The novel is based on real-life experience and has later been adapted into a very successful Bengali movie of the same name.
The Makran Coastal Highway linking Quetta and Gwadar passes through Balochistan. It was built by FWO and follows the same path which Alexander took when he ended his campaign. The highway has made the pilgrimage and visiting the shrine very convenient.
Social Significance
Despite the partition and the increasing Islamic stance of the Pakistani Government and society, Hinglaj has survived and is in fact revered by local Muslims who call it 'Nani ki Mandir'. Muslims offer red or saffron clothes, incense, candles and a sweet preparation called 'Sirini' to the deity[citation needed]. The Muslims protected sites like Hinglaj which are the last vestiges of the Hindu society which once straddled the area.
Hingula means cinnabar (HgS Mercuric Sulphide). It was used in ancient India to cure snakebite and other poisonings and is still employed in traditional medicine. The Goddess Hingula is thus believed to possess powers which can cure poisoning and other diseases. The Muslim name 'Nani' is an abbreviation of the name of the ancient Goddess "Nanaia", whose Persian name is "Anahita".
The Pilgrimage
Although the road linking the port of Gwadar on the Arabian Sea with the interior has shortened the pilgrimage a lot, the ancient path followed for millennia through the Baluch desert is endowed with a unique importance. The very journey on foot is considered a penance to purify oneself before approaching the deity. An account of such a journey is given below.
The pilgrims are led by priests or caretakers of the shrine through the desert. They hold a wooden trident in their hands. The trident or Trishul is the weapon of Lord Shiva and hence is associated with the Sati too. Since they hold the trident during the trip, they are called 'Charidaars' (Those who hold the stick or Chadi). The Chadi is draped with saffron, red or pink coloured fabrics.
The priests give a saffron cloth to every pilgrim and an oath is taken that each would help the other. However they are warned not to share their personal stores of water. This act is deemed to be a sort of fast and penance necessary for the journey.
On the path to the shrine are situated wells which are guarded by the local tribesmen. Feuds over water, a scarce commodity, is common in the area. The tribesmen are offered food consisting primarily of Roti (circular flat disks of baked flour) in lieu of water.
Baba Chandrakup
An important stop during the pilgrimage is the mud volcano called 'Chandrakup' (literally 'Moon Well'). It is considered holy and is addressed as 'Baba Chandrakup' The volcano is filled with mud, instead of magma, hence the term "mud volcano". It is considered to be the abode of Babhaknath. It is one of the few sites of active volcanic activity in the Asian mainland. The mud is semi fluid and sometimes it spills over and aggregates and cools into hillocks which surround the site. There are altogether 18 mud volcanoes in the region.
Pilgrims stay up all night at the base of the volcano making Rotis which are offered to the volcano. The activity is considered to be very holy. The ingredients, flour, ghee (clarified butter), jaggery, sugar are mixed on a cloth which is held at all times at four corners by pilgrims. This is done to ensure that it never touches the ground. The prepared Rotis are covered with wood.
At daybreak, the Rotis are carried by the pilgrims and priests to the mouth of the crater. A Chadi or Wooden Trident is planted near the edge of the crater and offerings of incense and cannabis are made along with recitation of 'mantras'. The rotis are then tore up and cast into the crater.
After this ritual every pilgrim is asked to confess his sins and ask for forgiveness. Anyone who refuses or hesitates to confess to his or her sins is ostracised and abandoned by the party. After the confession, the party proceeds with the permission of 'Baba Chandrakup'.
Reaching the Shrine
The pilgrimage continues for another four to five days after leaving Chandrakup. The final stop is a small village with wooden houses. It is home to the caretakers of the shrine and Baluch tribesmen who revere the deity even though they are Muslims. Before entering the shrine, the pilgrims bathe in the Hingol River (also called the Aghore River). The shrine is situated on the mountain on the other bank of the river. The pilgrims bathe and visit the shrine in their wet clothes.
The Shrine's Mark
The shrine is recognised by a mark which resembles the sun and the moon. This mark is upon a giant boulder at the top of the hill containing the cave. It is believed that Lord Ram created this mark with the strike of his arrow after his penance ended.
The Shrine
The shrine is called 'Mahal', a word of Arabic origin which means palace. The natural beauty of the shrine has spawned folklore that it was constructed by demigods called 'Yakshas'. The walls and roof of the cave are encrusted with colourful stones and semi-precious veins. The floor is also multi hued.
The entrance to the cave is around 50 feet in height. At the end of the cave is the sanctum sanctorum , which houses the holy relic. It is covered by red clothes and vermilion. There are two entrances to the sanctum. One has to crawl into the sanctum, take the 'darshan' and leave through the other opening. Prasad is distributed to the pilgrims and they return after seeing the Milky Way at night.
Hingula Pithas
Although the Hingula shrine in Balochistan is considered to be a true Shakti Peeth, other shrines dedicated to the goddess exist in India and Sri Lanka. One important shrine is located 14 km from Talcher in the state of Orissa in India. King Nala of the Vidarbha region of Western India was an ardent devotee of Devi Hingula. He was approached by the King of Puri for help. In order to start cooking 'Mahaprasada' for Lord Jagannath he had to procure Devi Hingula as fire for the temple kitchen. The Goddess agreed and moved to Puri as fire. The Hingula shrine in Balochistan with its location west of the River Indus (and in Balochistan) is the only Shakti Peeth outside the subcontinent.
Gwadar is located on the southwestern coast of Pakistan, close to the Strait of Hormuz on the Persian Gulf. More than 13 million bbl/d of oil pass through the Strait. It is strategically located between three increasingly important regions: the oil-rich Middle East, heavily populated South Asia and the economically emerging and resource-laden region of Central Asia. The Gwadar Port is expected to generate billions of dollars in revenues and create at least two million jobs.[2] In 2007, the government of Pakistan handed over port operations to PSA Singapore for 25 years, and gave it the status of a Tax Free Port for the following 40 years. There is also money invested into the port by the People's Republic of China. The strategic PRC plan to be engaged in many places along oil and gas roads is evident.[3]
The Makran region surrounding Gwadar was occupied by an ancient Bronze age people which settled in the few oases. It later became the Gedrosia region of the Achaemenid Persian empire. It is believed to have been conquered by the founder of the Persian empire, Cyrus the Great. The capital of the satrapy of Gedrosia was Pura, which is thought to have been located near the modern Bampûr, in Iranian Balochistan. During the homeward march of Alexander the Great, his admiral, Nearchus, led a fleet along the modern-day Makran coast and recorded that the area was dry, mountainous, and inhabited by the Ichthyophagoi (or "fish eaters"), an Greek rendering of the ancient Persian phrase "Mahi khoran" (which has itself become the modern word "Makran"). [4] After the collapse of Alexander's empire the area was ruled by Seleucus Nicator, one of Alexander’s generals. The region then came under "local rule" around about 303 BC.
The region remained on the sidelines of history for a millennium, until the Arab-Muslim army of Muhammad bin Qasim captured the town of Gwadar in AD 711 and over the intervening (and nearly equivalent) amount of time the area was contested by various powers, including the Mughals (from the east) and the Safavids (from the west). Portuguese explorers captured and sacked Gwadar in the late 16th century and this was then followed by almost two centuries of local rule by the various Balochi tribes. The city was visited by Ottoman Admiral Sidi Ali Reis in 1550s and mentioned in his book Mirat ul Memalik (The Mirror of Countries), 1557 CE [5]. According to Sidi Ali Reis, the inhabitants of Gwadar were Baloch and their chief was Malik Jelaleddin, son of Malik Dinar. In 1783, the Khan of Kalat granted suzerainty over Gwadar to Taimur Sultan, the defeated ruler of Muscat. [6] When the Sultan subsequently retook Muscat, he was to continue his rule in Gwadar by appointing a Wali (or "governor"). This Wali was then ordered to subjugate the nearby coastal town of Chah Bahar (in modern-day Iran), which ... The Gwadari fort was built during Omani rule, whilst telegraph lines were later extended into the town courtesy of HRM of the British.
In 1958, the Gwadar enclave was transferred to Pakistan. It was then made part of the Balochistan province In 2002, the Gwadar Port project (of building a large, deep-sea port) was begun in the town. The government of Pakistan intends to develop the entire area in order to reduce its reliance in shipping on the port of Karachi. In addition to expanding port facilities, the Project aims to build industrial complexes in the area and to connect the town via a modern highway to the rest of Pakistan. By the end of 2004 the first phase had been completed.
[edit] Culture
Gwadar's location and history have given it a unique blend of cultures. The Arabic influence upon Gwadar is strong as a consequence of the Omani era and the close proximity of other Arab-majority regions. The legacy of the Omani slave trade is observed in the population by the presence of residents which can trace their descent from the African slaves who were trafficked through the town (en route to destinations in the Muslim Far East. The area also has a remarkable religious diversity, being home to not only Sunni muslims, but also to groups of Christians, Hindus, Parsis, and various minorities such as the Qadianis.
Plateaus are flat highlands that are separated from the surroundings due to steep slopes. They are formed by collisions of tectonic plates, magma action that causes the elevation in earth’s crust.
The Place is Coastal Highway,Hingol Balochistan
Very few people have seen the Hingol National Park in the Balochistan province of Pakistan. Its nearest approach is from Karachi. Most visitors tend to go to the Hinglaj temple, an important sight for Hindu pilgrims but we managed to go deep into the national park with the Offroad pakistan who have made numerous visits there. Their website is worth a look :- offroadpakistan.com/
Hingol National Park or Hungol National Park (Urdu: ہنگول) is the largest of National Parks of Pakistan. It is on the Makran coast in Balochistan and is approximately 190 km from Karachi. The area was declared reserved in 1988.[1]
The park area covers parts of the three districts: Lasbela, Gwadar and Owaran of Balochistan province. It contains a variety of topographical features and vegetation, varying from arid sub tropical forest in the north to arid montane in the west. Large tracts of the NP are covered with drift sand and can be classified as coastal semi desert. The National Park includes the estuary of the Hingol river which supports a significant diversity of bird and fish species.
Currently, 20 staff members including 18 game watchers, two deputy rangers are responsible for the management of the Park under the guidance of the park Manager who reports to the Conservator and the Secretary Wildlife, Forest, Livestock, Environment and Tourism.
The shrine of Devi Hinglaj, the holiest among the 51 Shakti Peeths of Hinduism is situated in the park. It is a 15km trek from the main road. There is also a dirt track that leads to the site. Several thousand pilgrims visit the shrine each year.
Detailed inventories of wildlife were undertaken in 2006 and will be completed in the first half of 2007. Hingol is known to support at least 35 species of mammals, 65 species of amphibians and reptiles and 185 species of birds. Some 250 plant species were recorded in the initial surveys including 7 yet undescribed species. Many more species are yet to be collected.
The park forms an excellent habitat to wild Sindh Ibex, Afghan Urial and Chinkara Gazelle. Ibex is found in all steep mountain ranges and numerous in the Hinglaj and Rodani Kacho Mountain areas. Total population is estimated over 3000. The Urial populations are small and occur in isolated populations. The Machi and Upper Pachhri Mountains harbour the largest populations. Total population is less than 1000. The Chinkara occurs in good numbers along the great rivers (Nal-Hingol, Arra, Babro-Mar) in the Northern Plains and in the Harian and Maniji-Gurangatti valley areas. Elsewhere populations have been extirpated are very low. The total populations are preliminary estimated between 800-1200.
The Hingol River banks, estuary and mudflats forms an important habitat for migratory birds. About 40% of the bird species is related to water habitats. Migratory birds listed to visit Hingol include Dalmatian and Spot-billed Pelican, Sociable Plover, Spoonbills, Black Ibis, Black and White Stork. The Houbara Bustard (Chlamydotis undulata) visits the plains and valleys.
The River Hingol has been nurturing crocodiles for centuries. The Marsh Crocodile (Crocodylus palustris) occurs over large areas along the Hingol-Nal and some tributaries up to more than 100 km inland. The total population is about 50. There are several beaches along the more than 100 km coastline, however few tirtles visit the beaches nowadays. Historical records includes Olive Ridley (Lepidochelys olivacea) and Green Marine Turtles (Chelonia mydas). The vulnerable Spiny Tail Lizard (Uromastyx hardwickii) a mainly vegetarian lizard finds its most western distribution in Hingol.
Mammals in the park include Leopard, Jungle Cat, Caracal and Indian Desert Cat, Indian Fox, Bengal Fox and Sand Fox, Golden Jackal, Sindh Ibex, Afghan Urial, Chinkara Gazelle, Honey Badger, Indian Pangolin, Hedgehog (probably more than one species), Indian Crested Porcupine, Indian Grey Mongoose, Five striped Palm Squirrel, Wild Boar, Cape Hare and Desert Hare, Cairo Spiny mouse, Grey Spiny Mouse, Persian Jird, Indian Desert Jird and Libyian Jird, House Mouse, Roof Rat, and Mouse like Hamster. Wolf (Canis lupus pallipes) and Striped Hyena (Hyaena hyaena) are on the brink of extinction. The Leopard and Caracal populations are low.
The park has very few caves/ grottos, including one in the Dhrun Mountains with a bat population.
Birds in the park include Houbara Bustard, Dalmatian and Spot-billed Pelican, Bonnelli's eagle, Imperial eagle, Tawny eagle, Golden eagle, Eurasian griffon vulture, Egyptian vulture, Cinereous vulture, Lagger falcon, Red-headed merlin, Kestrel, Close-Barred sandgrouse, Grey partridge, See See partridge, Stone Curlew, Indian sand grouse, Coronetted sand grouse, Painted sand grouse, Eagle owl, Sind pied woodpecker, Hume's chat, Brown rock pipit, Striped buning, Finche larks, Hoopoe, Shrikes and Wheatears.
The Marsh Crocodile, Olive Ridley and Green Marine Turtles, Desert Monitor lizard, Yellow Monitor lizard, and different species of lizard and chameleon have been found in the park.
The government is all set to slice land off the Hingol National Park, the country’s largest, as the Pakistan Air Force and another defence-related organisation eye the prized real estate near the estuary whose value is likely to increase phenomenally once the Gwadar port starts functioning.
Sources in the Balochistan revenue department told Dawn that while the PAF has asked for around 80,000 acres (320 km²), including 23,000 acres (93 km²) in the national park, Pakistan Space and Upper Atmosphere Research Commission’s demand is for eight mauzas. [2]
Hinglaj (Sindhi: هنگلاج, Urdu: ﮨنگلاج, Sanskrit: हिङ्ग्लाज, Hindi: हिंगलाज) is an important Hindu pilgrimage place in Balochistan, Pakistan and Kuldevi of Kshatriya Bhavsar Community. It is situated in Balochistan province about 250 km north of Karachi.[1]
Mythological Origin
When Lord Vishnu cut up the body of Sati into 51 pieces so that Lord Shiva would calm down and stop his Tandava, the pieces were scattered over various places of the Indian subcontinent. It is said that the head of Sati fell at Hingula or Hinglaj and is thus considered the most important of the 51 Shakti Peeths. At each of the Peeths, Bhairava (a manifestation of Shiva) accompanies the relics. The Bhairava at Hinglaj is called Bhimalochana, located in Koteshwar, Kutch. The Sanskrit texts mention the part as 'Brahmadreya' or vital essence. For details, see this.
In the Ramayana, after slaying Ravana, Lord Ram came to Hinglaj to atone for his sin of 'Brahmhatya' (killing a Brahmin). Ravana was a Brahmin and a great devotee of Lord Shiva and Durga. Lord Ram meditated at Hinglaj as it was a very important shrine.
The mantra or incantation for Devi Hinglaj is attributed to Saint Dadhichi, an important saint in Hindu mythology. The mantra is :
ॐ हिंगुले परमहिंगुले अमृतरूपिणि तनुशक्ति
मनः शिवे श्री हिंगुलाय नमः स्वाहा
OM HINGULE PARAM HINGULE AMRUTRUPINI TANU SHAKTI
MANAH SHIVE SHREE HINGULAI NAMAH SWAHA
Translation : "Oh Hingula Devi, she who holds nectar in her self and is power incarnate. She who is one with Lord Shiva, to her we pay our respects and make this offering (swaha)."
Yet another incarnation:
ब्रह्मरंध्रम् हिंगुलायाम् भैरवो भीमलोचन: |
कोट्टरी सा महामाया त्रिगुणा या दिगम्बरी ||
BRAHMARANDHRAM HINGULAAYAAM BHAIRAVO VIMALOCHANAH
KOTTARI SAA MAHAAMAAYAA TRIGUNAA YAA DIGAMVARI
Translation : "Mahaamaayaa (Queen of Illusions) who represents the supreme virtue by reigning over all three virtues, has Bhimalochana as her Bhairava, and derides the worldly trappings by dancing naked, resides in this cave of Hingula that enshrines her sacred head."
Geographical Location
Hinglaj is situated in the Balochistan province of Pakistan. It is near the peak of one of the mountains of the Makran range. It is approximately 120 km from the Indus River Delta and 20 km from the Arabian Sea. The area is extremely arid and the pilgrimage also called 'Nani ki Haj' by local Muslims takes place before summer. The pilgrimage starts at a place near the Hao river which is 10 km from Karachi.
The name of Hinglaj lends itself to the Hingol river, the largest in Balochistan and the Hingol National Park which at 6,200 square kilometers is the largest in Pakistan.
Since it is located in a desert which is called Maru in Sanskrit, the shrine is referred to in holy texts as "Marutirtha Hinglaj" which means Hinglaj, the Shrine of the desert. "Marutirtha Hinglaj" is also the name of a Bengali novel by Kalikananda Abadhut who made a pilgrimage to Hinglaj and Koteshwar. The novel is based on real-life experience and has later been adapted into a very successful Bengali movie of the same name.
The Makran Coastal Highway linking Quetta and Gwadar passes through Balochistan. It was built by FWO and follows the same path which Alexander took when he ended his campaign. The highway has made the pilgrimage and visiting the shrine very convenient.
Social Significance
Despite the partition and the increasing Islamic stance of the Pakistani Government and society, Hinglaj has survived and is in fact revered by local Muslims who call it 'Nani ki Mandir'. Muslims offer red or saffron clothes, incense, candles and a sweet preparation called 'Sirini' to the deity[citation needed]. The Muslims protected sites like Hinglaj which are the last vestiges of the Hindu society which once straddled the area.
Hingula means cinnabar (HgS Mercuric Sulphide). It was used in ancient India to cure snakebite and other poisonings and is still employed in traditional medicine. The Goddess Hingula is thus believed to possess powers which can cure poisoning and other diseases. The Muslim name 'Nani' is an abbreviation of the name of the ancient Goddess "Nanaia", whose Persian name is "Anahita".
The Pilgrimage
Although the road linking the port of Gwadar on the Arabian Sea with the interior has shortened the pilgrimage a lot, the ancient path followed for millennia through the Baluch desert is endowed with a unique importance. The very journey on foot is considered a penance to purify oneself before approaching the deity. An account of such a journey is given below.
The pilgrims are led by priests or caretakers of the shrine through the desert. They hold a wooden trident in their hands. The trident or Trishul is the weapon of Lord Shiva and hence is associated with the Sati too. Since they hold the trident during the trip, they are called 'Charidaars' (Those who hold the stick or Chadi). The Chadi is draped with saffron, red or pink coloured fabrics.
The priests give a saffron cloth to every pilgrim and an oath is taken that each would help the other. However they are warned not to share their personal stores of water. This act is deemed to be a sort of fast and penance necessary for the journey.
On the path to the shrine are situated wells which are guarded by the local tribesmen. Feuds over water, a scarce commodity, is common in the area. The tribesmen are offered food consisting primarily of Roti (circular flat disks of baked flour) in lieu of water.
Baba Chandrakup
An important stop during the pilgrimage is the mud volcano called 'Chandrakup' (literally 'Moon Well'). It is considered holy and is addressed as 'Baba Chandrakup' The volcano is filled with mud, instead of magma, hence the term "mud volcano". It is considered to be the abode of Babhaknath. It is one of the few sites of active volcanic activity in the Asian mainland. The mud is semi fluid and sometimes it spills over and aggregates and cools into hillocks which surround the site. There are altogether 18 mud volcanoes in the region.
Pilgrims stay up all night at the base of the volcano making Rotis which are offered to the volcano. The activity is considered to be very holy. The ingredients, flour, ghee (clarified butter), jaggery, sugar are mixed on a cloth which is held at all times at four corners by pilgrims. This is done to ensure that it never touches the ground. The prepared Rotis are covered with wood.
At daybreak, the Rotis are carried by the pilgrims and priests to the mouth of the crater. A Chadi or Wooden Trident is planted near the edge of the crater and offerings of incense and cannabis are made along with recitation of 'mantras'. The rotis are then tore up and cast into the crater.
After this ritual every pilgrim is asked to confess his sins and ask for forgiveness. Anyone who refuses or hesitates to confess to his or her sins is ostracised and abandoned by the party. After the confession, the party proceeds with the permission of 'Baba Chandrakup'.
Reaching the Shrine
The pilgrimage continues for another four to five days after leaving Chandrakup. The final stop is a small village with wooden houses. It is home to the caretakers of the shrine and Baluch tribesmen who revere the deity even though they are Muslims. Before entering the shrine, the pilgrims bathe in the Hingol River (also called the Aghore River). The shrine is situated on the mountain on the other bank of the river. The pilgrims bathe and visit the shrine in their wet clothes.
The Shrine's Mark
The shrine is recognised by a mark which resembles the sun and the moon. This mark is upon a giant boulder at the top of the hill containing the cave. It is believed that Lord Ram created this mark with the strike of his arrow after his penance ended.
The Shrine
The shrine is called 'Mahal', a word of Arabic origin which means palace. The natural beauty of the shrine has spawned folklore that it was constructed by demigods called 'Yakshas'. The walls and roof of the cave are encrusted with colourful stones and semi-precious veins. The floor is also multi hued.
The entrance to the cave is around 50 feet in height. At the end of the cave is the sanctum sanctorum , which houses the holy relic. It is covered by red clothes and vermilion. There are two entrances to the sanctum. One has to crawl into the sanctum, take the 'darshan' and leave through the other opening. Prasad is distributed to the pilgrims and they return after seeing the Milky Way at night.
Hingula Pithas
Although the Hingula shrine in Balochistan is considered to be a true Shakti Peeth, other shrines dedicated to the goddess exist in India and Sri Lanka. One important shrine is located 14 km from Talcher in the state of Orissa in India. King Nala of the Vidarbha region of Western India was an ardent devotee of Devi Hingula. He was approached by the King of Puri for help. In order to start cooking 'Mahaprasada' for Lord Jagannath he had to procure Devi Hingula as fire for the temple kitchen. The Goddess agreed and moved to Puri as fire. The Hingula shrine in Balochistan with its location west of the River Indus (and in Balochistan) is the only Shakti Peeth outside the subcontinent.
Quetta is one of my favourite cities in Pakistan. It is unique in the sense that it looks well planned and is surrounded by mountains, which are snow-capped in winter. Quetta can be quite cold in winter and hot in summer. The geography and location of Quetta give it a very non-South Asian feel. There is also quite a mix of people belonging to the Middle East, Central Asia and South Asia. The majority in the city are the Pashtuns but you also have the Baloch, the Brahvi in good numbers too. There are the Hazaras and also migrants from Punjab and Sindh, some of them Hindus too. Sadly there is a civil war raging in some parts of Balochistan and it is not as safe to visit as it once was. The situation maybe worsened if the Americans feel that the leader of the Taliban, Mullah Omer, is hiding there as they want to conduct drone attacks on what they believe to be aliban training camps. Quetta is a beautiful city and deserves peace and I wish the violence disappears.
Quetta (help•info) (Pashto: کوټه, Urdu: کوئٹہ, Hazaragi: کویته, Brahui: Koŧá) is the largest city and the provincial capital of the Balochistan Province of Pakistan. It is known as the "Fruit Garden of Pakistan", due to the diversity of its plant and animal wildlife. Situated at an average elevation of 1,654 metres (5,429 ft) above sea level,[3] the city is a major stronghold along the western frontier of the country. The city is also home to the Hazarganji Chiltan National Park, which contains some of the rarest species of wildlife in the world and to a research institute, the Geological Survey of Pakistan.
Quetta sits near the Durand Line border with Afghanistan and is an important trade and communications centre between the two countries as well as an important military location occupying a vital strategic position for the Pakistani Armed Forces. The city lies on the Bolan Pass route which was once the only gateway to and from South Asia. The city was the closest city to the 1935 and the 2008 earthquakes both of which resulted in a great deal of damage to the city and significant loss of life.
Etymology
Quetta is also spelled Kuwatah which is a variation of Kuatta, a Pashto word,.[4] It is believed the city's name is derived from the four imposing hills (Chiltan, Takatu, Zarghoon and Murdaar) that surround the city.
History
The area was originally inhabited by Kasi (A tribe of Pashtun), the first detailed account of Quetta is from the 11th century when it was captured by Mahmud of Ghazni during one of his invasions of the Indian sub-continent. In 1543, the Mughal emperor Humayun rested in Quetta on his retreat to Persia, leaving his one-year-old son Akbar in the city until his return two years later. The Khan of Kalat ruled Quetta until 1556, when the Persians conquered the city only to have it retaken by Akbar in 1595. In 1828 the first westerner to visit Quetta described it as a mud-walled fort surrounded by three hundred mud houses. Although the city was occupied briefly in 1839 by the British during the First Afghan War, it was not until 1876 that Quetta became part of the British Empire, with Robert Sandeman being made the political leader for Baluchistan. The arrival of British troops led to the establishment of road and rail links and the introduction of schools, mainly for strategic purposes.
The British made the largely Pashtun area part of British Balochistan. In April 1883 it was combined with Pishin into a single administrative unit.
By the time of the earthquake on May 31, 1935 Quetta had developed into a bustling city with a number of multi-story buildings. The epicentre of the earthquake was close to the city and destroyed most of the city's infrastructure and killed an estimated 40,000 people. After many years the city has been rebuilt mainly with local funds. Structures are now generally earthquake resistant comprising of mainly single story structures with bricks and re-inforced concrete. However multi-story buildings are also built, while the number of buildings of three to five floors are being constructed in the city.
On joining Pakistan, Quetta was made the capital city of the newly created province of Balochistan before it was combined with other Balochi states (Kalat, Makran, Lasbela and Kharan) to form the Baloch province. Quetta was supposed to remain the capital of the province until 1971.
Geography and climate
Quetta has a desert climate (Köppen BWk) with a significant variation between summer and winter temperatures. Summer starts in late May and goes on until early September with average temperatures ranging from 24-26 °C (75-78 °F).The highest temperature in Quetta is 42 °C (108 °F) which was recorded on 10 July 1998.[5] Autumn starts in late September and continues until mid-November with average temperatures in the 12-18 °C (55-65 °F) range. Winter starts in late November and ends in late March, with average temperatures near 4-5 °C (39-41 °F).The lowest temperature in Quetta is −18.3 °C (−0.9 °F) which was recorded on 8 January 1970.[5] Spring starts in early April and ends in late May, with average temperatures close to 15 °C (60 °F). Unlike most of Pakistan, Quetta does not have a monsoon season of sustained, heavy rainfall. Highest rainfall during 24 hours in Quetta is 113 millimetres (4.4 in) which was recorded on 17 December 2000.,[5] Highest monthly rainfall is 232.4 millimetres (9.15 in) which was recorded in March, 1982.[5] and the highest annual rainfall is 949.8 millimetres (37.39 in) recorded in 1982.[5] In the winter snow is the principle mode of precipitation with snow falling mostly in the months of December, January and February.
The city saw droughts in the year 2000, and 2001. During these years the city didn't received snowfall and received below normal rains. While in 2003 the city received snowfall after a long period of five years. In 2004, and 2005 Quetta received normal rains with snowfall while in 2006, 2007 and 2009 the city doesn't revived any snow, except 2008 when Quetta received snowfall of four inches in four hours on 29 January 2008.[6] While on 2 February 2008 Quetta received ten inches of snow in just 10 hours.[7] These are the heaviest snowfall for the city in the last ten years. During the winter of 2010 it doesn't received any snowfall and saw below normal rains due to the presence of El-Nino over Pakistan.[8]
Quetta comprises approximately 2,653 km2 (1,036 square miles) and consists of series of valleys which act as a natural fort surrounded on all sides by a number of imposing hills named Chiltan, Takatoo, Murdar and Zarghun. There are no natural boundaries between Quetta and its adjoining districts of Dera Ismail Khan to the northeast, Dera Ghazi Khan and Sibi to the east, Sukkur and Jacobabad to the southeast, Karachi and Gawadar to the south and Ziarat to the southwest. The closest major city is Kandahar in Afghanistan which is located to the west of the Quetta.
Government and politics
Under the latest revision of Pakistan's administrative structure, promulgated in 2001,[10] Quetta was restructured as a City District, and divided into two towns[11][12] Each town in turn consists of a group of union councils (U.C.'s).[13]:
1.Zarghoon Town
2.Chiltan Town
Transport
Quetta is on the western edge of Pakistan and is well connected to the rest of the country by a network of roads, railways and airways.
At an altitude of 1,605 metres (5,260 ft) above sea level, Quetta Airport is the second highest airport in Pakistan. Pakistan International Airlines, Shaheen Air International and Airblue all have regular flights between Quetta and the other major cities of Pakistan including Islamabad, Gwadar, Karachi, Lahore and Peshawar while Pakistan International Airlines operates direct flights to Manchester, Dubai, New York and other major international airports.
Quetta Railway Station is one of the highest railway stations in Pakistan at 1,676 metres (5,495 ft) above sea level. The railway track was laid in 1890's during the British era to link Quetta with rest of the country. The extensive network of Pakistan Railways connects Quetta to Karachi in south, by a 863 km (536 miles) track, Lahore in northeast (1,170 km or 727 miles) and Peshawar further northeast (1,587 km or 986 miles). A metalled road runs alongside the railway that connects Quetta to Karachi via Sibi, Jacobabad and Rohri. A track from the Iranian city of Zahedan links to Quetta via Taftan. Service was temporarily discontinued in 2006 due to unrest in Balochistan. Since 2008 railway service has come under attack by the Balochs, especially in the Bolan Pass area resulting in the bomb blast on the railway tracks and firing on trains, creating a sense of insecurity amongst the traveling public.
Recently there has been a proposal to construct a railway track that will link Gawadar to China and Gawadar with Quetta via Kalat. Although the distance from Quetta to Lahore is only 700 km (417 miles), there is no direct track on this route because of the Sulaiman Range that lies in the east of Quetta. All northeast-bound trains for Punjab or the North-West Frontier Province must first go over 350 km (218 miles) south to Rohri, Sindh (near Sukkur) before continuing north to Punjab and North-West Frontier Province.
Quetta is connected by metalled roads to the rest of the country. A recently built road connects it with Karachi through Mastung, Kalat, Khuzdar and Lasbela. Other major roads are Quetta to Karachi following the Sibi, Jacobabad, Sukkur and Hyderabad route and two roads from Quetta to Lahore one (the older) via Sibi, Sukkur, Rahim Yar Khan, Bahawalpur and Multan the other route via Khanozai, Muslimbagh Loralai, Fort Mondro, Dera Ghazi Khan and Multan. Quetta is also connected with Afghanistan through Chaman and to Iran through Mastung, Nushki, Dalbandin and Taftan.
Educational institutions
Quetta has a number of institutions of higher education. The prestigious military Command and Staff College, which was founded by the British. The city is home to the University of Balochistan which was established in 1974, the Balochistan University of Information Technology, Engineering and Management Sciences, Sardar Bahadur Khan Women's University, the Geological Survey of Pakistan, the Sandeman Library and two government colleges affiliated with the University of Peshawar.
Flora and fauna
A wide variety of mammals such as Markhor, Balochi language: مار خور (mounatin goat), leopards, wolves, hyena, rabbits, wild cats and porcupines are to be found in the Quetta region. Local birds species include partridge, warblers, shikra, the blue rock pigeon, rock nuthatch, golden eagle, sparrows, hawks, falcons and bearded vultures. Flora in Quetta is both numerous and rare. A total of 225 species have been identified in the area including; pistachios, juniper, wild olives, wild ash and wild almonds. Also found are a wide range of shrubs including; wild fig, barbery, wild cherry, makhi and herbs such as ephedra intermadia and gerardiana.
Culture
Quetta is a tourist attraction for foreigners to whom it is advertised as a "thrilling location, full of adventure and enjoyment". Among the attractions are the bazaars located on the Shahrah-e-Liaquat (Liaquat Bazaar and Suraj Gang Bazaar and Shahrah-e-Iqbal (Kandahari Bazaar). In bazaars the colourful handicrafts, particularly Balochi mirror work and Pashtun embroidery both of which are admired world-wide. Afghan rugs, fur coats, embroidered jackets, waist-coats, sandals and other traditional Pashtun items are also famous.
Balochi carpets are made by the nomadic tribes of the area. They are generally not nearly as fine or expensive as either the Persian city products or even the Turkoman tribal rugs from further north, but they are generally more authentic than the copies of Turkoman and Persian designs often found in the major cities of Pakistan. The rugs range in price and size, from lower priced crude examples to fine and valuable pieces. Many are small enough to be portable.
For those interested in local cuisine, there are many dishes to try. The famous Pashtun tribal cuisine “Roash” which non-locals call “Namkin” is to be found in both city restaurants as well as in the outlying areas. Some of the finest mutton in the country is raised around Quetta and is a mainstay of local cuisine. The Pashtun tribal dish, “Landhi”, is made of a whole lamb which is dried and kept fresh during the cold winters. "Khadi Kebab" is a lamb barbecue while "Sajji" (leg of lamb) and "Pulao" are other local dishes. The best restaurants are Usmania, Tabaq, Green Hotel, Gulab Hotel, Lal Kabab, and the Abasin Hotel all of which serve both Pakistani and western food while the Cafe China is one of the oldest and most reputable Chinese restaurants. A number of small hotels located along Alamdar road provide accommodation for tourists.
Hanna Lake, which nestles in the hills ten kilometres (six miles) east of the city, is a startling turquoise pool which contrasts markedly with its bare brown surroundings. An attraction for holidaymakers, with facilities for boat hire and a lakeside restaurant it is crowded by hikers and campers in holiday periods. At one end there is an irrigation dam while on the eastern shore line there is Hayat Durrani Water Sports Academy, the only water sports training center in Balochistan Province. The Hana Lake Development Authority, the Hayat Durrani Water Sports Academy and Merck Marker (Pvt.) Ltd have planted a range of trees in the Hanna Lake Mountains both for beautification and the protection of the environment.
The Hazarganji Chiltan National Park, 20 km (13 miles) south-west of Quetta, Markhors is a protected park area. The name of the park, "Hazarganji" literally means "Of a thousand treasures" is spread over 32,500 acres (132 km2) at an altitude ranging from 2,021 to 3,264 metres (5,625 to 10,700 feet). In the folds of the mountains, according to legend, there are over a thousand treasures buried, reminders of the passage over the ages of great armies including the Bactrians, the Scythians, the Muslims, and the Mongols.[citation needed] Pir Ghaib is a waterfall and picnic point located 70 km from the City Center on Sibi Road. Kharkhasa is located 10 km (6 miles) west of Quetta in a 16 km (10 miles) long narrow valley which contains a variety of flora and fauna species. The Chiltan Hill Viewpoint in the park provides a panoramic view over the city. A visit to the nearby cities of Kirani and Ziarat are popular scenic places for tourists traveling to and from Quetta.
The Quetta Geological Museum, located on Sariab Road has a collection of rocks and fossils found in Balochistan. The Command and Staff College Museum is a museum dedicated to British military history. It is housed in the former bungalow of Field Marshal Bernard Montgomery. The Quetta Archaeological Museum, located on Fifa Road has a collection of rare antique guns, swords, manuscripts and a display of Stone Age tools, prehistoric pottery and articles found in Mehrgarh. There are also coins, manuscripts and photos of Quetta before the 1935 earthquake. The Balochistan Arts Council Library is a newly opened facility which houses a variety of arts and crafts from Balochistan province.
A number of cultural and religious festivals are held in the city every year. The two Eid festivals which mark the end of fasting and the end of the Hajj allow the majority Muslim community to put on musical shows, distribute sweets and presents. Buzkashi is a peculiar festival celebrated by Pashtuns in which two teams on horse-back attempt to snatch a goat from each other.
Demography
Quetta, real name is Shaal (a Balochi word, شال Quetta District ), was historically part of the Khanate of Balochistan, Khan of Kalat, until it was invaded by the British Raj in the mid-19th century, during the First Anglo-Afghan War. The city in general is dominated by Baloch people and Pashtun people followed by Hazaras, Punjabi and others as the minority groups. Most of the Pashtun people in Quetta arrived after 1970s, from Afghanistan due to harsh economic conditions and later Soviet invasion.
Pashto is the main language spoken throughout the city. Other languages include Brahui, Balochi, Urdu, Hazaragi, Sindhi, and Punjabi. The city has expanded from a population of just 11,000 in 1891 to a total of between 565,137 to 676,941 according to the 1998 census which makes it the ninth biggest city in Pakistan.[14][15] Although the majority were repatriated back to Afghanistan through the UNHCR,[16] a small number of registered Afghan refugees are still to be found in and around the city but are not counted in the national census of Pakistan as they are citizens of Afghanistan deemed to be remaining in the country temporarily.
About 99% of the people are Muslims, that includes the majority Sunni sect and the minority Shias most of whom are the Hazaras. Christian, Hindu, and Sikh population are the other people living in the city.
Sports
The residents of the city are avid sports fans. In Quetta, unlike most of Pakistan, football rather than cricket is the most popular sport. Football teams from Quetta include Quetta Zorawar, Afghan Football, Hazara Green Football, Baluch Football and Quetta Bazigars Club. In cricket, Quetta is home to the Quetta Bears.
In field hockey, Quetta has produced Zeeshan Ashraf and Shakeel Abbasi, who are current members of the Pakistan national field hockey team. In mountain climbing and caving, Hayatullah Khan Durrani (Pride of Performance), the chief executive of Hayat Durrani Water Sports Academy at Hanna Lake. In Kayaking, Muhammad Abubakar Durrani, National Junior Champion was selected for the world Junior Canoeing Championship in 2009 in Moscow. In Boxing Olympians from Quetta include: Syed Agha Ibrar Shah,Abdul Salam Khan Kakar, Asghar Ali Changezi and Haider Ali Changezi. Weight lifting Dilawar Khan Khilji, Mohammad Rafiq Khan Khilji and Mohammad Alam Khan Kakar were the famous weightlifters.
In squash, Hiddy Jahan Khan was ranked among the top-6 players in the world from 1970 through to 1986. British Open champion Qamer Zaman also hails from Quetta. Other famous squash players include: Zarak Jahan Khan, Abdul Wali Khan Khilji, Hamayoon Khan Khilji, Zubair Jahan Khan, Shams ul Islam Khan Kakar, Tariq Rahim Khan Kakar and Shaied Zaman Khan. The Ayub National Stadium is the largest stadium in the city and the site of international cricket and football matches.
Very few people have seen the Hingol National Park in the Balochistan province of Pakistan. Its nearest approach is from Karachi. Most visitors tend to go to the Hinglaj temple, an important sight for Hindu pilgrims but we managed to go deep into the national park with the Offroad pakistan who have made numerous visits there. Their website is worth a look :- offroadpakistan.com/
Hingol National Park or Hungol National Park (Urdu: ہنگول) is the largest of National Parks of Pakistan. It is on the Makran coast in Balochistan and is approximately 190 km from Karachi. The area was declared reserved in 1988.[1]
The park area covers parts of the three districts: Lasbela, Gwadar and Owaran of Balochistan province. It contains a variety of topographical features and vegetation, varying from arid sub tropical forest in the north to arid montane in the west. Large tracts of the NP are covered with drift sand and can be classified as coastal semi desert. The National Park includes the estuary of the Hingol river which supports a significant diversity of bird and fish species.
Currently, 20 staff members including 18 game watchers, two deputy rangers are responsible for the management of the Park under the guidance of the park Manager who reports to the Conservator and the Secretary Wildlife, Forest, Livestock, Environment and Tourism.
The shrine of Devi Hinglaj, the holiest among the 51 Shakti Peeths of Hinduism is situated in the park. It is a 15km trek from the main road. There is also a dirt track that leads to the site. Several thousand pilgrims visit the shrine each year.
Detailed inventories of wildlife were undertaken in 2006 and will be completed in the first half of 2007. Hingol is known to support at least 35 species of mammals, 65 species of amphibians and reptiles and 185 species of birds. Some 250 plant species were recorded in the initial surveys including 7 yet undescribed species. Many more species are yet to be collected.
The park forms an excellent habitat to wild Sindh Ibex, Afghan Urial and Chinkara Gazelle. Ibex is found in all steep mountain ranges and numerous in the Hinglaj and Rodani Kacho Mountain areas. Total population is estimated over 3000. The Urial populations are small and occur in isolated populations. The Machi and Upper Pachhri Mountains harbour the largest populations. Total population is less than 1000. The Chinkara occurs in good numbers along the great rivers (Nal-Hingol, Arra, Babro-Mar) in the Northern Plains and in the Harian and Maniji-Gurangatti valley areas. Elsewhere populations have been extirpated are very low. The total populations are preliminary estimated between 800-1200.
The Hingol River banks, estuary and mudflats forms an important habitat for migratory birds. About 40% of the bird species is related to water habitats. Migratory birds listed to visit Hingol include Dalmatian and Spot-billed Pelican, Sociable Plover, Spoonbills, Black Ibis, Black and White Stork. The Houbara Bustard (Chlamydotis undulata) visits the plains and valleys.
The River Hingol has been nurturing crocodiles for centuries. The Marsh Crocodile (Crocodylus palustris) occurs over large areas along the Hingol-Nal and some tributaries up to more than 100 km inland. The total population is about 50. There are several beaches along the more than 100 km coastline, however few tirtles visit the beaches nowadays. Historical records includes Olive Ridley (Lepidochelys olivacea) and Green Marine Turtles (Chelonia mydas). The vulnerable Spiny Tail Lizard (Uromastyx hardwickii) a mainly vegetarian lizard finds its most western distribution in Hingol.
Mammals in the park include Leopard, Jungle Cat, Caracal and Indian Desert Cat, Indian Fox, Bengal Fox and Sand Fox, Golden Jackal, Sindh Ibex, Afghan Urial, Chinkara Gazelle, Honey Badger, Indian Pangolin, Hedgehog (probably more than one species), Indian Crested Porcupine, Indian Grey Mongoose, Five striped Palm Squirrel, Wild Boar, Cape Hare and Desert Hare, Cairo Spiny mouse, Grey Spiny Mouse, Persian Jird, Indian Desert Jird and Libyian Jird, House Mouse, Roof Rat, and Mouse like Hamster. Wolf (Canis lupus pallipes) and Striped Hyena (Hyaena hyaena) are on the brink of extinction. The Leopard and Caracal populations are low.
The park has very few caves/ grottos, including one in the Dhrun Mountains with a bat population.
Birds in the park include Houbara Bustard, Dalmatian and Spot-billed Pelican, Bonnelli's eagle, Imperial eagle, Tawny eagle, Golden eagle, Eurasian griffon vulture, Egyptian vulture, Cinereous vulture, Lagger falcon, Red-headed merlin, Kestrel, Close-Barred sandgrouse, Grey partridge, See See partridge, Stone Curlew, Indian sand grouse, Coronetted sand grouse, Painted sand grouse, Eagle owl, Sind pied woodpecker, Hume's chat, Brown rock pipit, Striped buning, Finche larks, Hoopoe, Shrikes and Wheatears.
The Marsh Crocodile, Olive Ridley and Green Marine Turtles, Desert Monitor lizard, Yellow Monitor lizard, and different species of lizard and chameleon have been found in the park.
The government is all set to slice land off the Hingol National Park, the country’s largest, as the Pakistan Air Force and another defence-related organisation eye the prized real estate near the estuary whose value is likely to increase phenomenally once the Gwadar port starts functioning.
Sources in the Balochistan revenue department told Dawn that while the PAF has asked for around 80,000 acres (320 km²), including 23,000 acres (93 km²) in the national park, Pakistan Space and Upper Atmosphere Research Commission’s demand is for eight mauzas. [2]
Very few people have seen the Hingol National Park in the Balochistan province of Pakistan. Its nearest approach is from Karachi. Most visitors tend to go to the Hinglaj temple, an important sight for Hindu pilgrims but we managed to go deep into the national park with the Offroad pakistan who have made numerous visits there. Their website is worth a look :- offroadpakistan.com/
Hingol National Park or Hungol National Park (Urdu: ہنگول) is the largest of National Parks of Pakistan. It is on the Makran coast in Balochistan and is approximately 190 km from Karachi. The area was declared reserved in 1988.[1]
The park area covers parts of the three districts: Lasbela, Gwadar and Owaran of Balochistan province. It contains a variety of topographical features and vegetation, varying from arid sub tropical forest in the north to arid montane in the west. Large tracts of the NP are covered with drift sand and can be classified as coastal semi desert. The National Park includes the estuary of the Hingol river which supports a significant diversity of bird and fish species.
Currently, 20 staff members including 18 game watchers, two deputy rangers are responsible for the management of the Park under the guidance of the park Manager who reports to the Conservator and the Secretary Wildlife, Forest, Livestock, Environment and Tourism.
The shrine of Devi Hinglaj, the holiest among the 51 Shakti Peeths of Hinduism is situated in the park. It is a 15km trek from the main road. There is also a dirt track that leads to the site. Several thousand pilgrims visit the shrine each year.
Detailed inventories of wildlife were undertaken in 2006 and will be completed in the first half of 2007. Hingol is known to support at least 35 species of mammals, 65 species of amphibians and reptiles and 185 species of birds. Some 250 plant species were recorded in the initial surveys including 7 yet undescribed species. Many more species are yet to be collected.
The park forms an excellent habitat to wild Sindh Ibex, Afghan Urial and Chinkara Gazelle. Ibex is found in all steep mountain ranges and numerous in the Hinglaj and Rodani Kacho Mountain areas. Total population is estimated over 3000. The Urial populations are small and occur in isolated populations. The Machi and Upper Pachhri Mountains harbour the largest populations. Total population is less than 1000. The Chinkara occurs in good numbers along the great rivers (Nal-Hingol, Arra, Babro-Mar) in the Northern Plains and in the Harian and Maniji-Gurangatti valley areas. Elsewhere populations have been extirpated are very low. The total populations are preliminary estimated between 800-1200.
The Hingol River banks, estuary and mudflats forms an important habitat for migratory birds. About 40% of the bird species is related to water habitats. Migratory birds listed to visit Hingol include Dalmatian and Spot-billed Pelican, Sociable Plover, Spoonbills, Black Ibis, Black and White Stork. The Houbara Bustard (Chlamydotis undulata) visits the plains and valleys.
The River Hingol has been nurturing crocodiles for centuries. The Marsh Crocodile (Crocodylus palustris) occurs over large areas along the Hingol-Nal and some tributaries up to more than 100 km inland. The total population is about 50. There are several beaches along the more than 100 km coastline, however few tirtles visit the beaches nowadays. Historical records includes Olive Ridley (Lepidochelys olivacea) and Green Marine Turtles (Chelonia mydas). The vulnerable Spiny Tail Lizard (Uromastyx hardwickii) a mainly vegetarian lizard finds its most western distribution in Hingol.
Mammals in the park include Leopard, Jungle Cat, Caracal and Indian Desert Cat, Indian Fox, Bengal Fox and Sand Fox, Golden Jackal, Sindh Ibex, Afghan Urial, Chinkara Gazelle, Honey Badger, Indian Pangolin, Hedgehog (probably more than one species), Indian Crested Porcupine, Indian Grey Mongoose, Five striped Palm Squirrel, Wild Boar, Cape Hare and Desert Hare, Cairo Spiny mouse, Grey Spiny Mouse, Persian Jird, Indian Desert Jird and Libyian Jird, House Mouse, Roof Rat, and Mouse like Hamster. Wolf (Canis lupus pallipes) and Striped Hyena (Hyaena hyaena) are on the brink of extinction. The Leopard and Caracal populations are low.
The park has very few caves/ grottos, including one in the Dhrun Mountains with a bat population.
Birds in the park include Houbara Bustard, Dalmatian and Spot-billed Pelican, Bonnelli's eagle, Imperial eagle, Tawny eagle, Golden eagle, Eurasian griffon vulture, Egyptian vulture, Cinereous vulture, Lagger falcon, Red-headed merlin, Kestrel, Close-Barred sandgrouse, Grey partridge, See See partridge, Stone Curlew, Indian sand grouse, Coronetted sand grouse, Painted sand grouse, Eagle owl, Sind pied woodpecker, Hume's chat, Brown rock pipit, Striped buning, Finche larks, Hoopoe, Shrikes and Wheatears.
The Marsh Crocodile, Olive Ridley and Green Marine Turtles, Desert Monitor lizard, Yellow Monitor lizard, and different species of lizard and chameleon have been found in the park.
The government is all set to slice land off the Hingol National Park, the country’s largest, as the Pakistan Air Force and another defence-related organisation eye the prized real estate near the estuary whose value is likely to increase phenomenally once the Gwadar port starts functioning.
Sources in the Balochistan revenue department told Dawn that while the PAF has asked for around 80,000 acres (320 km²), including 23,000 acres (93 km²) in the national park, Pakistan Space and Upper Atmosphere Research Commission’s demand is for eight mauzas. [2]
Very few people have seen the Hingol National Park in the Balochistan province of Pakistan. Its nearest approach is from Karachi. Most visitors tend to go to the Hinglaj temple, an important sight for Hindu pilgrims but we managed to go deep into the national park with the Offroad pakistan who have made numerous visits there. Their website is worth a look :- offroadpakistan.com/
Hingol National Park or Hungol National Park (Urdu: ہنگول) is the largest of National Parks of Pakistan. It is on the Makran coast in Balochistan and is approximately 190 km from Karachi. The area was declared reserved in 1988.[1]
The park area covers parts of the three districts: Lasbela, Gwadar and Owaran of Balochistan province. It contains a variety of topographical features and vegetation, varying from arid sub tropical forest in the north to arid montane in the west. Large tracts of the NP are covered with drift sand and can be classified as coastal semi desert. The National Park includes the estuary of the Hingol river which supports a significant diversity of bird and fish species.
Currently, 20 staff members including 18 game watchers, two deputy rangers are responsible for the management of the Park under the guidance of the park Manager who reports to the Conservator and the Secretary Wildlife, Forest, Livestock, Environment and Tourism.
The shrine of Devi Hinglaj, the holiest among the 51 Shakti Peeths of Hinduism is situated in the park. It is a 15km trek from the main road. There is also a dirt track that leads to the site. Several thousand pilgrims visit the shrine each year.
Detailed inventories of wildlife were undertaken in 2006 and will be completed in the first half of 2007. Hingol is known to support at least 35 species of mammals, 65 species of amphibians and reptiles and 185 species of birds. Some 250 plant species were recorded in the initial surveys including 7 yet undescribed species. Many more species are yet to be collected.
The park forms an excellent habitat to wild Sindh Ibex, Afghan Urial and Chinkara Gazelle. Ibex is found in all steep mountain ranges and numerous in the Hinglaj and Rodani Kacho Mountain areas. Total population is estimated over 3000. The Urial populations are small and occur in isolated populations. The Machi and Upper Pachhri Mountains harbour the largest populations. Total population is less than 1000. The Chinkara occurs in good numbers along the great rivers (Nal-Hingol, Arra, Babro-Mar) in the Northern Plains and in the Harian and Maniji-Gurangatti valley areas. Elsewhere populations have been extirpated are very low. The total populations are preliminary estimated between 800-1200.
The Hingol River banks, estuary and mudflats forms an important habitat for migratory birds. About 40% of the bird species is related to water habitats. Migratory birds listed to visit Hingol include Dalmatian and Spot-billed Pelican, Sociable Plover, Spoonbills, Black Ibis, Black and White Stork. The Houbara Bustard (Chlamydotis undulata) visits the plains and valleys.
The River Hingol has been nurturing crocodiles for centuries. The Marsh Crocodile (Crocodylus palustris) occurs over large areas along the Hingol-Nal and some tributaries up to more than 100 km inland. The total population is about 50. There are several beaches along the more than 100 km coastline, however few tirtles visit the beaches nowadays. Historical records includes Olive Ridley (Lepidochelys olivacea) and Green Marine Turtles (Chelonia mydas). The vulnerable Spiny Tail Lizard (Uromastyx hardwickii) a mainly vegetarian lizard finds its most western distribution in Hingol.
Mammals in the park include Leopard, Jungle Cat, Caracal and Indian Desert Cat, Indian Fox, Bengal Fox and Sand Fox, Golden Jackal, Sindh Ibex, Afghan Urial, Chinkara Gazelle, Honey Badger, Indian Pangolin, Hedgehog (probably more than one species), Indian Crested Porcupine, Indian Grey Mongoose, Five striped Palm Squirrel, Wild Boar, Cape Hare and Desert Hare, Cairo Spiny mouse, Grey Spiny Mouse, Persian Jird, Indian Desert Jird and Libyian Jird, House Mouse, Roof Rat, and Mouse like Hamster. Wolf (Canis lupus pallipes) and Striped Hyena (Hyaena hyaena) are on the brink of extinction. The Leopard and Caracal populations are low.
The park has very few caves/ grottos, including one in the Dhrun Mountains with a bat population.
Birds in the park include Houbara Bustard, Dalmatian and Spot-billed Pelican, Bonnelli's eagle, Imperial eagle, Tawny eagle, Golden eagle, Eurasian griffon vulture, Egyptian vulture, Cinereous vulture, Lagger falcon, Red-headed merlin, Kestrel, Close-Barred sandgrouse, Grey partridge, See See partridge, Stone Curlew, Indian sand grouse, Coronetted sand grouse, Painted sand grouse, Eagle owl, Sind pied woodpecker, Hume's chat, Brown rock pipit, Striped buning, Finche larks, Hoopoe, Shrikes and Wheatears.
The Marsh Crocodile, Olive Ridley and Green Marine Turtles, Desert Monitor lizard, Yellow Monitor lizard, and different species of lizard and chameleon have been found in the park.
The government is all set to slice land off the Hingol National Park, the country’s largest, as the Pakistan Air Force and another defence-related organisation eye the prized real estate near the estuary whose value is likely to increase phenomenally once the Gwadar port starts functioning.
Sources in the Balochistan revenue department told Dawn that while the PAF has asked for around 80,000 acres (320 km²), including 23,000 acres (93 km²) in the national park, Pakistan Space and Upper Atmosphere Research Commission’s demand is for eight mauzas. [2]
Quetta is one of my favourite cities in Pakistan. It is unique in the sense that it looks well planned and is surrounded by mountains, which are snow-capped in winter. Quetta can be quite cold in winter and hot in summer. The geography and location of Quetta give it a very non-South Asian feel. There is also quite a mix of people belonging to the Middle East, Central Asia and South Asia. The majority in the city are the Pashtuns but you also have the Baloch, the Brahvi in good numbers too. There are the Hazaras and also migrants from Punjab and Sindh, some of them Hindus too. Sadly there is a civil war raging in some parts of Balochistan and it is not as safe to visit as it once was. The situation maybe worsened if the Americans feel that the leader of the Taliban, Mullah Omer, is hiding there as they want to conduct drone attacks on what they believe to be aliban training camps. Quetta is a beautiful city and deserves peace and I wish the violence disappears.
Quetta (help•info) (Pashto: کوټه, Urdu: کوئٹہ, Hazaragi: کویته, Brahui: Koŧá) is the largest city and the provincial capital of the Balochistan Province of Pakistan. It is known as the "Fruit Garden of Pakistan", due to the diversity of its plant and animal wildlife. Situated at an average elevation of 1,654 metres (5,429 ft) above sea level,[3] the city is a major stronghold along the western frontier of the country. The city is also home to the Hazarganji Chiltan National Park, which contains some of the rarest species of wildlife in the world and to a research institute, the Geological Survey of Pakistan.
Quetta sits near the Durand Line border with Afghanistan and is an important trade and communications centre between the two countries as well as an important military location occupying a vital strategic position for the Pakistani Armed Forces. The city lies on the Bolan Pass route which was once the only gateway to and from South Asia. The city was the closest city to the 1935 and the 2008 earthquakes both of which resulted in a great deal of damage to the city and significant loss of life.
Etymology
Quetta is also spelled Kuwatah which is a variation of Kuatta, a Pashto word,.[4] It is believed the city's name is derived from the four imposing hills (Chiltan, Takatu, Zarghoon and Murdaar) that surround the city.
History
The area was originally inhabited by Kasi (A tribe of Pashtun), the first detailed account of Quetta is from the 11th century when it was captured by Mahmud of Ghazni during one of his invasions of the Indian sub-continent. In 1543, the Mughal emperor Humayun rested in Quetta on his retreat to Persia, leaving his one-year-old son Akbar in the city until his return two years later. The Khan of Kalat ruled Quetta until 1556, when the Persians conquered the city only to have it retaken by Akbar in 1595. In 1828 the first westerner to visit Quetta described it as a mud-walled fort surrounded by three hundred mud houses. Although the city was occupied briefly in 1839 by the British during the First Afghan War, it was not until 1876 that Quetta became part of the British Empire, with Robert Sandeman being made the political leader for Baluchistan. The arrival of British troops led to the establishment of road and rail links and the introduction of schools, mainly for strategic purposes.
The British made the largely Pashtun area part of British Balochistan. In April 1883 it was combined with Pishin into a single administrative unit.
By the time of the earthquake on May 31, 1935 Quetta had developed into a bustling city with a number of multi-story buildings. The epicentre of the earthquake was close to the city and destroyed most of the city's infrastructure and killed an estimated 40,000 people. After many years the city has been rebuilt mainly with local funds. Structures are now generally earthquake resistant comprising of mainly single story structures with bricks and re-inforced concrete. However multi-story buildings are also built, while the number of buildings of three to five floors are being constructed in the city.
On joining Pakistan, Quetta was made the capital city of the newly created province of Balochistan before it was combined with other Balochi states (Kalat, Makran, Lasbela and Kharan) to form the Baloch province. Quetta was supposed to remain the capital of the province until 1971.
Geography and climate
Quetta has a desert climate (Köppen BWk) with a significant variation between summer and winter temperatures. Summer starts in late May and goes on until early September with average temperatures ranging from 24-26 °C (75-78 °F).The highest temperature in Quetta is 42 °C (108 °F) which was recorded on 10 July 1998.[5] Autumn starts in late September and continues until mid-November with average temperatures in the 12-18 °C (55-65 °F) range. Winter starts in late November and ends in late March, with average temperatures near 4-5 °C (39-41 °F).The lowest temperature in Quetta is −18.3 °C (−0.9 °F) which was recorded on 8 January 1970.[5] Spring starts in early April and ends in late May, with average temperatures close to 15 °C (60 °F). Unlike most of Pakistan, Quetta does not have a monsoon season of sustained, heavy rainfall. Highest rainfall during 24 hours in Quetta is 113 millimetres (4.4 in) which was recorded on 17 December 2000.,[5] Highest monthly rainfall is 232.4 millimetres (9.15 in) which was recorded in March, 1982.[5] and the highest annual rainfall is 949.8 millimetres (37.39 in) recorded in 1982.[5] In the winter snow is the principle mode of precipitation with snow falling mostly in the months of December, January and February.
The city saw droughts in the year 2000, and 2001. During these years the city didn't received snowfall and received below normal rains. While in 2003 the city received snowfall after a long period of five years. In 2004, and 2005 Quetta received normal rains with snowfall while in 2006, 2007 and 2009 the city doesn't revived any snow, except 2008 when Quetta received snowfall of four inches in four hours on 29 January 2008.[6] While on 2 February 2008 Quetta received ten inches of snow in just 10 hours.[7] These are the heaviest snowfall for the city in the last ten years. During the winter of 2010 it doesn't received any snowfall and saw below normal rains due to the presence of El-Nino over Pakistan.[8]
Quetta comprises approximately 2,653 km2 (1,036 square miles) and consists of series of valleys which act as a natural fort surrounded on all sides by a number of imposing hills named Chiltan, Takatoo, Murdar and Zarghun. There are no natural boundaries between Quetta and its adjoining districts of Dera Ismail Khan to the northeast, Dera Ghazi Khan and Sibi to the east, Sukkur and Jacobabad to the southeast, Karachi and Gawadar to the south and Ziarat to the southwest. The closest major city is Kandahar in Afghanistan which is located to the west of the Quetta.
Government and politics
Under the latest revision of Pakistan's administrative structure, promulgated in 2001,[10] Quetta was restructured as a City District, and divided into two towns[11][12] Each town in turn consists of a group of union councils (U.C.'s).[13]:
1.Zarghoon Town
2.Chiltan Town
Transport
Quetta is on the western edge of Pakistan and is well connected to the rest of the country by a network of roads, railways and airways.
At an altitude of 1,605 metres (5,260 ft) above sea level, Quetta Airport is the second highest airport in Pakistan. Pakistan International Airlines, Shaheen Air International and Airblue all have regular flights between Quetta and the other major cities of Pakistan including Islamabad, Gwadar, Karachi, Lahore and Peshawar while Pakistan International Airlines operates direct flights to Manchester, Dubai, New York and other major international airports.
Quetta Railway Station is one of the highest railway stations in Pakistan at 1,676 metres (5,495 ft) above sea level. The railway track was laid in 1890's during the British era to link Quetta with rest of the country. The extensive network of Pakistan Railways connects Quetta to Karachi in south, by a 863 km (536 miles) track, Lahore in northeast (1,170 km or 727 miles) and Peshawar further northeast (1,587 km or 986 miles). A metalled road runs alongside the railway that connects Quetta to Karachi via Sibi, Jacobabad and Rohri. A track from the Iranian city of Zahedan links to Quetta via Taftan. Service was temporarily discontinued in 2006 due to unrest in Balochistan. Since 2008 railway service has come under attack by the Balochs, especially in the Bolan Pass area resulting in the bomb blast on the railway tracks and firing on trains, creating a sense of insecurity amongst the traveling public.
Recently there has been a proposal to construct a railway track that will link Gawadar to China and Gawadar with Quetta via Kalat. Although the distance from Quetta to Lahore is only 700 km (417 miles), there is no direct track on this route because of the Sulaiman Range that lies in the east of Quetta. All northeast-bound trains for Punjab or the North-West Frontier Province must first go over 350 km (218 miles) south to Rohri, Sindh (near Sukkur) before continuing north to Punjab and North-West Frontier Province.
Quetta is connected by metalled roads to the rest of the country. A recently built road connects it with Karachi through Mastung, Kalat, Khuzdar and Lasbela. Other major roads are Quetta to Karachi following the Sibi, Jacobabad, Sukkur and Hyderabad route and two roads from Quetta to Lahore one (the older) via Sibi, Sukkur, Rahim Yar Khan, Bahawalpur and Multan the other route via Khanozai, Muslimbagh Loralai, Fort Mondro, Dera Ghazi Khan and Multan. Quetta is also connected with Afghanistan through Chaman and to Iran through Mastung, Nushki, Dalbandin and Taftan.
Educational institutions
Quetta has a number of institutions of higher education. The prestigious military Command and Staff College, which was founded by the British. The city is home to the University of Balochistan which was established in 1974, the Balochistan University of Information Technology, Engineering and Management Sciences, Sardar Bahadur Khan Women's University, the Geological Survey of Pakistan, the Sandeman Library and two government colleges affiliated with the University of Peshawar.
Flora and fauna
A wide variety of mammals such as Markhor, Balochi language: مار خور (mounatin goat), leopards, wolves, hyena, rabbits, wild cats and porcupines are to be found in the Quetta region. Local birds species include partridge, warblers, shikra, the blue rock pigeon, rock nuthatch, golden eagle, sparrows, hawks, falcons and bearded vultures. Flora in Quetta is both numerous and rare. A total of 225 species have been identified in the area including; pistachios, juniper, wild olives, wild ash and wild almonds. Also found are a wide range of shrubs including; wild fig, barbery, wild cherry, makhi and herbs such as ephedra intermadia and gerardiana.
Culture
Quetta is a tourist attraction for foreigners to whom it is advertised as a "thrilling location, full of adventure and enjoyment". Among the attractions are the bazaars located on the Shahrah-e-Liaquat (Liaquat Bazaar and Suraj Gang Bazaar and Shahrah-e-Iqbal (Kandahari Bazaar). In bazaars the colourful handicrafts, particularly Balochi mirror work and Pashtun embroidery both of which are admired world-wide. Afghan rugs, fur coats, embroidered jackets, waist-coats, sandals and other traditional Pashtun items are also famous.
Balochi carpets are made by the nomadic tribes of the area. They are generally not nearly as fine or expensive as either the Persian city products or even the Turkoman tribal rugs from further north, but they are generally more authentic than the copies of Turkoman and Persian designs often found in the major cities of Pakistan. The rugs range in price and size, from lower priced crude examples to fine and valuable pieces. Many are small enough to be portable.
For those interested in local cuisine, there are many dishes to try. The famous Pashtun tribal cuisine “Roash” which non-locals call “Namkin” is to be found in both city restaurants as well as in the outlying areas. Some of the finest mutton in the country is raised around Quetta and is a mainstay of local cuisine. The Pashtun tribal dish, “Landhi”, is made of a whole lamb which is dried and kept fresh during the cold winters. "Khadi Kebab" is a lamb barbecue while "Sajji" (leg of lamb) and "Pulao" are other local dishes. The best restaurants are Usmania, Tabaq, Green Hotel, Gulab Hotel, Lal Kabab, and the Abasin Hotel all of which serve both Pakistani and western food while the Cafe China is one of the oldest and most reputable Chinese restaurants. A number of small hotels located along Alamdar road provide accommodation for tourists.
Hanna Lake, which nestles in the hills ten kilometres (six miles) east of the city, is a startling turquoise pool which contrasts markedly with its bare brown surroundings. An attraction for holidaymakers, with facilities for boat hire and a lakeside restaurant it is crowded by hikers and campers in holiday periods. At one end there is an irrigation dam while on the eastern shore line there is Hayat Durrani Water Sports Academy, the only water sports training center in Balochistan Province. The Hana Lake Development Authority, the Hayat Durrani Water Sports Academy and Merck Marker (Pvt.) Ltd have planted a range of trees in the Hanna Lake Mountains both for beautification and the protection of the environment.
The Hazarganji Chiltan National Park, 20 km (13 miles) south-west of Quetta, Markhors is a protected park area. The name of the park, "Hazarganji" literally means "Of a thousand treasures" is spread over 32,500 acres (132 km2) at an altitude ranging from 2,021 to 3,264 metres (5,625 to 10,700 feet). In the folds of the mountains, according to legend, there are over a thousand treasures buried, reminders of the passage over the ages of great armies including the Bactrians, the Scythians, the Muslims, and the Mongols.[citation needed] Pir Ghaib is a waterfall and picnic point located 70 km from the City Center on Sibi Road. Kharkhasa is located 10 km (6 miles) west of Quetta in a 16 km (10 miles) long narrow valley which contains a variety of flora and fauna species. The Chiltan Hill Viewpoint in the park provides a panoramic view over the city. A visit to the nearby cities of Kirani and Ziarat are popular scenic places for tourists traveling to and from Quetta.
The Quetta Geological Museum, located on Sariab Road has a collection of rocks and fossils found in Balochistan. The Command and Staff College Museum is a museum dedicated to British military history. It is housed in the former bungalow of Field Marshal Bernard Montgomery. The Quetta Archaeological Museum, located on Fifa Road has a collection of rare antique guns, swords, manuscripts and a display of Stone Age tools, prehistoric pottery and articles found in Mehrgarh. There are also coins, manuscripts and photos of Quetta before the 1935 earthquake. The Balochistan Arts Council Library is a newly opened facility which houses a variety of arts and crafts from Balochistan province.
A number of cultural and religious festivals are held in the city every year. The two Eid festivals which mark the end of fasting and the end of the Hajj allow the majority Muslim community to put on musical shows, distribute sweets and presents. Buzkashi is a peculiar festival celebrated by Pashtuns in which two teams on horse-back attempt to snatch a goat from each other.
Demography
Quetta, real name is Shaal (a Balochi word, شال Quetta District ), was historically part of the Khanate of Balochistan, Khan of Kalat, until it was invaded by the British Raj in the mid-19th century, during the First Anglo-Afghan War. The city in general is dominated by Baloch people and Pashtun people followed by Hazaras, Punjabi and others as the minority groups. Most of the Pashtun people in Quetta arrived after 1970s, from Afghanistan due to harsh economic conditions and later Soviet invasion.
Pashto is the main language spoken throughout the city. Other languages include Brahui, Balochi, Urdu, Hazaragi, Sindhi, and Punjabi. The city has expanded from a population of just 11,000 in 1891 to a total of between 565,137 to 676,941 according to the 1998 census which makes it the ninth biggest city in Pakistan.[14][15] Although the majority were repatriated back to Afghanistan through the UNHCR,[16] a small number of registered Afghan refugees are still to be found in and around the city but are not counted in the national census of Pakistan as they are citizens of Afghanistan deemed to be remaining in the country temporarily.
About 99% of the people are Muslims, that includes the majority Sunni sect and the minority Shias most of whom are the Hazaras. Christian, Hindu, and Sikh population are the other people living in the city.
Sports
The residents of the city are avid sports fans. In Quetta, unlike most of Pakistan, football rather than cricket is the most popular sport. Football teams from Quetta include Quetta Zorawar, Afghan Football, Hazara Green Football, Baluch Football and Quetta Bazigars Club. In cricket, Quetta is home to the Quetta Bears.
In field hockey, Quetta has produced Zeeshan Ashraf and Shakeel Abbasi, who are current members of the Pakistan national field hockey team. In mountain climbing and caving, Hayatullah Khan Durrani (Pride of Performance), the chief executive of Hayat Durrani Water Sports Academy at Hanna Lake. In Kayaking, Muhammad Abubakar Durrani, National Junior Champion was selected for the world Junior Canoeing Championship in 2009 in Moscow. In Boxing Olympians from Quetta include: Syed Agha Ibrar Shah,Abdul Salam Khan Kakar, Asghar Ali Changezi and Haider Ali Changezi. Weight lifting Dilawar Khan Khilji, Mohammad Rafiq Khan Khilji and Mohammad Alam Khan Kakar were the famous weightlifters.
In squash, Hiddy Jahan Khan was ranked among the top-6 players in the world from 1970 through to 1986. British Open champion Qamer Zaman also hails from Quetta. Other famous squash players include: Zarak Jahan Khan, Abdul Wali Khan Khilji, Hamayoon Khan Khilji, Zubair Jahan Khan, Shams ul Islam Khan Kakar, Tariq Rahim Khan Kakar and Shaied Zaman Khan. The Ayub National Stadium is the largest stadium in the city and the site of international cricket and football matches.
Quetta is one of my favourite cities in Pakistan. It is unique in the sense that it looks well planned and is surrounded by mountains, which are snow-capped in winter. Quetta can be quite cold in winter and hot in summer. The geography and location of Quetta give it a very non-South Asian feel. There is also quite a mix of people belonging to the Middle East, Central Asia and South Asia. The majority in the city are the Pashtuns but you also have the Baloch, the Brahvi in good numbers too. There are the Hazaras and also migrants from Punjab and Sindh, some of them Hindus too. Sadly there is a civil war raging in some parts of Balochistan and it is not as safe to visit as it once was. The situation maybe worsened if the Americans feel that the leader of the Taliban, Mullah Omer, is hiding there as they want to conduct drone attacks on what they believe to be aliban training camps. Quetta is a beautiful city and deserves peace and I wish the violence disappears.
Quetta (help•info) (Pashto: کوټه, Urdu: کوئٹہ, Hazaragi: کویته, Brahui: Koŧá) is the largest city and the provincial capital of the Balochistan Province of Pakistan. It is known as the "Fruit Garden of Pakistan", due to the diversity of its plant and animal wildlife. Situated at an average elevation of 1,654 metres (5,429 ft) above sea level,[3] the city is a major stronghold along the western frontier of the country. The city is also home to the Hazarganji Chiltan National Park, which contains some of the rarest species of wildlife in the world and to a research institute, the Geological Survey of Pakistan.
Quetta sits near the Durand Line border with Afghanistan and is an important trade and communications centre between the two countries as well as an important military location occupying a vital strategic position for the Pakistani Armed Forces. The city lies on the Bolan Pass route which was once the only gateway to and from South Asia. The city was the closest city to the 1935 and the 2008 earthquakes both of which resulted in a great deal of damage to the city and significant loss of life.
Etymology
Quetta is also spelled Kuwatah which is a variation of Kuatta, a Pashto word,.[4] It is believed the city's name is derived from the four imposing hills (Chiltan, Takatu, Zarghoon and Murdaar) that surround the city.
History
The area was originally inhabited by Kasi (A tribe of Pashtun), the first detailed account of Quetta is from the 11th century when it was captured by Mahmud of Ghazni during one of his invasions of the Indian sub-continent. In 1543, the Mughal emperor Humayun rested in Quetta on his retreat to Persia, leaving his one-year-old son Akbar in the city until his return two years later. The Khan of Kalat ruled Quetta until 1556, when the Persians conquered the city only to have it retaken by Akbar in 1595. In 1828 the first westerner to visit Quetta described it as a mud-walled fort surrounded by three hundred mud houses. Although the city was occupied briefly in 1839 by the British during the First Afghan War, it was not until 1876 that Quetta became part of the British Empire, with Robert Sandeman being made the political leader for Baluchistan. The arrival of British troops led to the establishment of road and rail links and the introduction of schools, mainly for strategic purposes.
The British made the largely Pashtun area part of British Balochistan. In April 1883 it was combined with Pishin into a single administrative unit.
By the time of the earthquake on May 31, 1935 Quetta had developed into a bustling city with a number of multi-story buildings. The epicentre of the earthquake was close to the city and destroyed most of the city's infrastructure and killed an estimated 40,000 people. After many years the city has been rebuilt mainly with local funds. Structures are now generally earthquake resistant comprising of mainly single story structures with bricks and re-inforced concrete. However multi-story buildings are also built, while the number of buildings of three to five floors are being constructed in the city.
On joining Pakistan, Quetta was made the capital city of the newly created province of Balochistan before it was combined with other Balochi states (Kalat, Makran, Lasbela and Kharan) to form the Baloch province. Quetta was supposed to remain the capital of the province until 1971.
Geography and climate
Quetta has a desert climate (Köppen BWk) with a significant variation between summer and winter temperatures. Summer starts in late May and goes on until early September with average temperatures ranging from 24-26 °C (75-78 °F).The highest temperature in Quetta is 42 °C (108 °F) which was recorded on 10 July 1998.[5] Autumn starts in late September and continues until mid-November with average temperatures in the 12-18 °C (55-65 °F) range. Winter starts in late November and ends in late March, with average temperatures near 4-5 °C (39-41 °F).The lowest temperature in Quetta is −18.3 °C (−0.9 °F) which was recorded on 8 January 1970.[5] Spring starts in early April and ends in late May, with average temperatures close to 15 °C (60 °F). Unlike most of Pakistan, Quetta does not have a monsoon season of sustained, heavy rainfall. Highest rainfall during 24 hours in Quetta is 113 millimetres (4.4 in) which was recorded on 17 December 2000.,[5] Highest monthly rainfall is 232.4 millimetres (9.15 in) which was recorded in March, 1982.[5] and the highest annual rainfall is 949.8 millimetres (37.39 in) recorded in 1982.[5] In the winter snow is the principle mode of precipitation with snow falling mostly in the months of December, January and February.
The city saw droughts in the year 2000, and 2001. During these years the city didn't received snowfall and received below normal rains. While in 2003 the city received snowfall after a long period of five years. In 2004, and 2005 Quetta received normal rains with snowfall while in 2006, 2007 and 2009 the city doesn't revived any snow, except 2008 when Quetta received snowfall of four inches in four hours on 29 January 2008.[6] While on 2 February 2008 Quetta received ten inches of snow in just 10 hours.[7] These are the heaviest snowfall for the city in the last ten years. During the winter of 2010 it doesn't received any snowfall and saw below normal rains due to the presence of El-Nino over Pakistan.[8]
Quetta comprises approximately 2,653 km2 (1,036 square miles) and consists of series of valleys which act as a natural fort surrounded on all sides by a number of imposing hills named Chiltan, Takatoo, Murdar and Zarghun. There are no natural boundaries between Quetta and its adjoining districts of Dera Ismail Khan to the northeast, Dera Ghazi Khan and Sibi to the east, Sukkur and Jacobabad to the southeast, Karachi and Gawadar to the south and Ziarat to the southwest. The closest major city is Kandahar in Afghanistan which is located to the west of the Quetta.
Government and politics
Under the latest revision of Pakistan's administrative structure, promulgated in 2001,[10] Quetta was restructured as a City District, and divided into two towns[11][12] Each town in turn consists of a group of union councils (U.C.'s).[13]:
1.Zarghoon Town
2.Chiltan Town
Transport
Quetta is on the western edge of Pakistan and is well connected to the rest of the country by a network of roads, railways and airways.
At an altitude of 1,605 metres (5,260 ft) above sea level, Quetta Airport is the second highest airport in Pakistan. Pakistan International Airlines, Shaheen Air International and Airblue all have regular flights between Quetta and the other major cities of Pakistan including Islamabad, Gwadar, Karachi, Lahore and Peshawar while Pakistan International Airlines operates direct flights to Manchester, Dubai, New York and other major international airports.
Quetta Railway Station is one of the highest railway stations in Pakistan at 1,676 metres (5,495 ft) above sea level. The railway track was laid in 1890's during the British era to link Quetta with rest of the country. The extensive network of Pakistan Railways connects Quetta to Karachi in south, by a 863 km (536 miles) track, Lahore in northeast (1,170 km or 727 miles) and Peshawar further northeast (1,587 km or 986 miles). A metalled road runs alongside the railway that connects Quetta to Karachi via Sibi, Jacobabad and Rohri. A track from the Iranian city of Zahedan links to Quetta via Taftan. Service was temporarily discontinued in 2006 due to unrest in Balochistan. Since 2008 railway service has come under attack by the Balochs, especially in the Bolan Pass area resulting in the bomb blast on the railway tracks and firing on trains, creating a sense of insecurity amongst the traveling public.
Recently there has been a proposal to construct a railway track that will link Gawadar to China and Gawadar with Quetta via Kalat. Although the distance from Quetta to Lahore is only 700 km (417 miles), there is no direct track on this route because of the Sulaiman Range that lies in the east of Quetta. All northeast-bound trains for Punjab or the North-West Frontier Province must first go over 350 km (218 miles) south to Rohri, Sindh (near Sukkur) before continuing north to Punjab and North-West Frontier Province.
Quetta is connected by metalled roads to the rest of the country. A recently built road connects it with Karachi through Mastung, Kalat, Khuzdar and Lasbela. Other major roads are Quetta to Karachi following the Sibi, Jacobabad, Sukkur and Hyderabad route and two roads from Quetta to Lahore one (the older) via Sibi, Sukkur, Rahim Yar Khan, Bahawalpur and Multan the other route via Khanozai, Muslimbagh Loralai, Fort Mondro, Dera Ghazi Khan and Multan. Quetta is also connected with Afghanistan through Chaman and to Iran through Mastung, Nushki, Dalbandin and Taftan.
Educational institutions
Quetta has a number of institutions of higher education. The prestigious military Command and Staff College, which was founded by the British. The city is home to the University of Balochistan which was established in 1974, the Balochistan University of Information Technology, Engineering and Management Sciences, Sardar Bahadur Khan Women's University, the Geological Survey of Pakistan, the Sandeman Library and two government colleges affiliated with the University of Peshawar.
Flora and fauna
A wide variety of mammals such as Markhor, Balochi language: مار خور (mounatin goat), leopards, wolves, hyena, rabbits, wild cats and porcupines are to be found in the Quetta region. Local birds species include partridge, warblers, shikra, the blue rock pigeon, rock nuthatch, golden eagle, sparrows, hawks, falcons and bearded vultures. Flora in Quetta is both numerous and rare. A total of 225 species have been identified in the area including; pistachios, juniper, wild olives, wild ash and wild almonds. Also found are a wide range of shrubs including; wild fig, barbery, wild cherry, makhi and herbs such as ephedra intermadia and gerardiana.
Culture
Quetta is a tourist attraction for foreigners to whom it is advertised as a "thrilling location, full of adventure and enjoyment". Among the attractions are the bazaars located on the Shahrah-e-Liaquat (Liaquat Bazaar and Suraj Gang Bazaar and Shahrah-e-Iqbal (Kandahari Bazaar). In bazaars the colourful handicrafts, particularly Balochi mirror work and Pashtun embroidery both of which are admired world-wide. Afghan rugs, fur coats, embroidered jackets, waist-coats, sandals and other traditional Pashtun items are also famous.
Balochi carpets are made by the nomadic tribes of the area. They are generally not nearly as fine or expensive as either the Persian city products or even the Turkoman tribal rugs from further north, but they are generally more authentic than the copies of Turkoman and Persian designs often found in the major cities of Pakistan. The rugs range in price and size, from lower priced crude examples to fine and valuable pieces. Many are small enough to be portable.
For those interested in local cuisine, there are many dishes to try. The famous Pashtun tribal cuisine “Roash” which non-locals call “Namkin” is to be found in both city restaurants as well as in the outlying areas. Some of the finest mutton in the country is raised around Quetta and is a mainstay of local cuisine. The Pashtun tribal dish, “Landhi”, is made of a whole lamb which is dried and kept fresh during the cold winters. "Khadi Kebab" is a lamb barbecue while "Sajji" (leg of lamb) and "Pulao" are other local dishes. The best restaurants are Usmania, Tabaq, Green Hotel, Gulab Hotel, Lal Kabab, and the Abasin Hotel all of which serve both Pakistani and western food while the Cafe China is one of the oldest and most reputable Chinese restaurants. A number of small hotels located along Alamdar road provide accommodation for tourists.
Hanna Lake, which nestles in the hills ten kilometres (six miles) east of the city, is a startling turquoise pool which contrasts markedly with its bare brown surroundings. An attraction for holidaymakers, with facilities for boat hire and a lakeside restaurant it is crowded by hikers and campers in holiday periods. At one end there is an irrigation dam while on the eastern shore line there is Hayat Durrani Water Sports Academy, the only water sports training center in Balochistan Province. The Hana Lake Development Authority, the Hayat Durrani Water Sports Academy and Merck Marker (Pvt.) Ltd have planted a range of trees in the Hanna Lake Mountains both for beautification and the protection of the environment.
The Hazarganji Chiltan National Park, 20 km (13 miles) south-west of Quetta, Markhors is a protected park area. The name of the park, "Hazarganji" literally means "Of a thousand treasures" is spread over 32,500 acres (132 km2) at an altitude ranging from 2,021 to 3,264 metres (5,625 to 10,700 feet). In the folds of the mountains, according to legend, there are over a thousand treasures buried, reminders of the passage over the ages of great armies including the Bactrians, the Scythians, the Muslims, and the Mongols.[citation needed] Pir Ghaib is a waterfall and picnic point located 70 km from the City Center on Sibi Road. Kharkhasa is located 10 km (6 miles) west of Quetta in a 16 km (10 miles) long narrow valley which contains a variety of flora and fauna species. The Chiltan Hill Viewpoint in the park provides a panoramic view over the city. A visit to the nearby cities of Kirani and Ziarat are popular scenic places for tourists traveling to and from Quetta.
The Quetta Geological Museum, located on Sariab Road has a collection of rocks and fossils found in Balochistan. The Command and Staff College Museum is a museum dedicated to British military history. It is housed in the former bungalow of Field Marshal Bernard Montgomery. The Quetta Archaeological Museum, located on Fifa Road has a collection of rare antique guns, swords, manuscripts and a display of Stone Age tools, prehistoric pottery and articles found in Mehrgarh. There are also coins, manuscripts and photos of Quetta before the 1935 earthquake. The Balochistan Arts Council Library is a newly opened facility which houses a variety of arts and crafts from Balochistan province.
A number of cultural and religious festivals are held in the city every year. The two Eid festivals which mark the end of fasting and the end of the Hajj allow the majority Muslim community to put on musical shows, distribute sweets and presents. Buzkashi is a peculiar festival celebrated by Pashtuns in which two teams on horse-back attempt to snatch a goat from each other.
Demography
Quetta, real name is Shaal (a Balochi word, شال Quetta District ), was historically part of the Khanate of Balochistan, Khan of Kalat, until it was invaded by the British Raj in the mid-19th century, during the First Anglo-Afghan War. The city in general is dominated by Baloch people and Pashtun people followed by Hazaras, Punjabi and others as the minority groups. Most of the Pashtun people in Quetta arrived after 1970s, from Afghanistan due to harsh economic conditions and later Soviet invasion.
Pashto is the main language spoken throughout the city. Other languages include Brahui, Balochi, Urdu, Hazaragi, Sindhi, and Punjabi. The city has expanded from a population of just 11,000 in 1891 to a total of between 565,137 to 676,941 according to the 1998 census which makes it the ninth biggest city in Pakistan.[14][15] Although the majority were repatriated back to Afghanistan through the UNHCR,[16] a small number of registered Afghan refugees are still to be found in and around the city but are not counted in the national census of Pakistan as they are citizens of Afghanistan deemed to be remaining in the country temporarily.
About 99% of the people are Muslims, that includes the majority Sunni sect and the minority Shias most of whom are the Hazaras. Christian, Hindu, and Sikh population are the other people living in the city.
Sports
The residents of the city are avid sports fans. In Quetta, unlike most of Pakistan, football rather than cricket is the most popular sport. Football teams from Quetta include Quetta Zorawar, Afghan Football, Hazara Green Football, Baluch Football and Quetta Bazigars Club. In cricket, Quetta is home to the Quetta Bears.
In field hockey, Quetta has produced Zeeshan Ashraf and Shakeel Abbasi, who are current members of the Pakistan national field hockey team. In mountain climbing and caving, Hayatullah Khan Durrani (Pride of Performance), the chief executive of Hayat Durrani Water Sports Academy at Hanna Lake. In Kayaking, Muhammad Abubakar Durrani, National Junior Champion was selected for the world Junior Canoeing Championship in 2009 in Moscow. In Boxing Olympians from Quetta include: Syed Agha Ibrar Shah,Abdul Salam Khan Kakar, Asghar Ali Changezi and Haider Ali Changezi. Weight lifting Dilawar Khan Khilji, Mohammad Rafiq Khan Khilji and Mohammad Alam Khan Kakar were the famous weightlifters.
In squash, Hiddy Jahan Khan was ranked among the top-6 players in the world from 1970 through to 1986. British Open champion Qamer Zaman also hails from Quetta. Other famous squash players include: Zarak Jahan Khan, Abdul Wali Khan Khilji, Hamayoon Khan Khilji, Zubair Jahan Khan, Shams ul Islam Khan Kakar, Tariq Rahim Khan Kakar and Shaied Zaman Khan. The Ayub National Stadium is the largest stadium in the city and the site of international cricket and football matches.
Very few people have seen the Hingol National Park in the Balochistan province of Pakistan. Its nearest approach is from Karachi. Most visitors tend to go to the Hinglaj temple, an important sight for Hindu pilgrims but we managed to go deep into the national park with the Offroad pakistan who have made numerous visits there. Their website is worth a look :- offroadpakistan.com/
Hingol National Park or Hungol National Park (Urdu: ہنگول) is the largest of National Parks of Pakistan. It is on the Makran coast in Balochistan and is approximately 190 km from Karachi. The area was declared reserved in 1988.[1]
The park area covers parts of the three districts: Lasbela, Gwadar and Owaran of Balochistan province. It contains a variety of topographical features and vegetation, varying from arid sub tropical forest in the north to arid montane in the west. Large tracts of the NP are covered with drift sand and can be classified as coastal semi desert. The National Park includes the estuary of the Hingol river which supports a significant diversity of bird and fish species.
Currently, 20 staff members including 18 game watchers, two deputy rangers are responsible for the management of the Park under the guidance of the park Manager who reports to the Conservator and the Secretary Wildlife, Forest, Livestock, Environment and Tourism.
The shrine of Devi Hinglaj, the holiest among the 51 Shakti Peeths of Hinduism is situated in the park. It is a 15km trek from the main road. There is also a dirt track that leads to the site. Several thousand pilgrims visit the shrine each year.
Detailed inventories of wildlife were undertaken in 2006 and will be completed in the first half of 2007. Hingol is known to support at least 35 species of mammals, 65 species of amphibians and reptiles and 185 species of birds. Some 250 plant species were recorded in the initial surveys including 7 yet undescribed species. Many more species are yet to be collected.
The park forms an excellent habitat to wild Sindh Ibex, Afghan Urial and Chinkara Gazelle. Ibex is found in all steep mountain ranges and numerous in the Hinglaj and Rodani Kacho Mountain areas. Total population is estimated over 3000. The Urial populations are small and occur in isolated populations. The Machi and Upper Pachhri Mountains harbour the largest populations. Total population is less than 1000. The Chinkara occurs in good numbers along the great rivers (Nal-Hingol, Arra, Babro-Mar) in the Northern Plains and in the Harian and Maniji-Gurangatti valley areas. Elsewhere populations have been extirpated are very low. The total populations are preliminary estimated between 800-1200.
The Hingol River banks, estuary and mudflats forms an important habitat for migratory birds. About 40% of the bird species is related to water habitats. Migratory birds listed to visit Hingol include Dalmatian and Spot-billed Pelican, Sociable Plover, Spoonbills, Black Ibis, Black and White Stork. The Houbara Bustard (Chlamydotis undulata) visits the plains and valleys.
The River Hingol has been nurturing crocodiles for centuries. The Marsh Crocodile (Crocodylus palustris) occurs over large areas along the Hingol-Nal and some tributaries up to more than 100 km inland. The total population is about 50. There are several beaches along the more than 100 km coastline, however few tirtles visit the beaches nowadays. Historical records includes Olive Ridley (Lepidochelys olivacea) and Green Marine Turtles (Chelonia mydas). The vulnerable Spiny Tail Lizard (Uromastyx hardwickii) a mainly vegetarian lizard finds its most western distribution in Hingol.
Mammals in the park include Leopard, Jungle Cat, Caracal and Indian Desert Cat, Indian Fox, Bengal Fox and Sand Fox, Golden Jackal, Sindh Ibex, Afghan Urial, Chinkara Gazelle, Honey Badger, Indian Pangolin, Hedgehog (probably more than one species), Indian Crested Porcupine, Indian Grey Mongoose, Five striped Palm Squirrel, Wild Boar, Cape Hare and Desert Hare, Cairo Spiny mouse, Grey Spiny Mouse, Persian Jird, Indian Desert Jird and Libyian Jird, House Mouse, Roof Rat, and Mouse like Hamster. Wolf (Canis lupus pallipes) and Striped Hyena (Hyaena hyaena) are on the brink of extinction. The Leopard and Caracal populations are low.
The park has very few caves/ grottos, including one in the Dhrun Mountains with a bat population.
Birds in the park include Houbara Bustard, Dalmatian and Spot-billed Pelican, Bonnelli's eagle, Imperial eagle, Tawny eagle, Golden eagle, Eurasian griffon vulture, Egyptian vulture, Cinereous vulture, Lagger falcon, Red-headed merlin, Kestrel, Close-Barred sandgrouse, Grey partridge, See See partridge, Stone Curlew, Indian sand grouse, Coronetted sand grouse, Painted sand grouse, Eagle owl, Sind pied woodpecker, Hume's chat, Brown rock pipit, Striped buning, Finche larks, Hoopoe, Shrikes and Wheatears.
The Marsh Crocodile, Olive Ridley and Green Marine Turtles, Desert Monitor lizard, Yellow Monitor lizard, and different species of lizard and chameleon have been found in the park.
The government is all set to slice land off the Hingol National Park, the country’s largest, as the Pakistan Air Force and another defence-related organisation eye the prized real estate near the estuary whose value is likely to increase phenomenally once the Gwadar port starts functioning.
Sources in the Balochistan revenue department told Dawn that while the PAF has asked for around 80,000 acres (320 km²), including 23,000 acres (93 km²) in the national park, Pakistan Space and Upper Atmosphere Research Commission’s demand is for eight mauzas. [2]
Gwadar is located on the southwestern coast of Pakistan, close to the Strait of Hormuz on the Persian Gulf. More than 13 million bbl/d of oil pass through the Strait. It is strategically located between three increasingly important regions: the oil-rich Middle East, heavily populated South Asia and the economically emerging and resource-laden region of Central Asia. The Gwadar Port is expected to generate billions of dollars in revenues and create at least two million jobs.[2] In 2007, the government of Pakistan handed over port operations to PSA Singapore for 25 years, and gave it the status of a Tax Free Port for the following 40 years. There is also money invested into the port by the People's Republic of China. The strategic PRC plan to be engaged in many places along oil and gas roads is evident.[3]
The Makran region surrounding Gwadar was occupied by an ancient Bronze age people which settled in the few oases. It later became the Gedrosia region of the Achaemenid Persian empire. It is believed to have been conquered by the founder of the Persian empire, Cyrus the Great. The capital of the satrapy of Gedrosia was Pura, which is thought to have been located near the modern Bampûr, in Iranian Balochistan. During the homeward march of Alexander the Great, his admiral, Nearchus, led a fleet along the modern-day Makran coast and recorded that the area was dry, mountainous, and inhabited by the Ichthyophagoi (or "fish eaters"), an Greek rendering of the ancient Persian phrase "Mahi khoran" (which has itself become the modern word "Makran"). [4] After the collapse of Alexander's empire the area was ruled by Seleucus Nicator, one of Alexander’s generals. The region then came under "local rule" around about 303 BC.
The region remained on the sidelines of history for a millennium, until the Arab-Muslim army of Muhammad bin Qasim captured the town of Gwadar in AD 711 and over the intervening (and nearly equivalent) amount of time the area was contested by various powers, including the Mughals (from the east) and the Safavids (from the west). Portuguese explorers captured and sacked Gwadar in the late 16th century and this was then followed by almost two centuries of local rule by the various Balochi tribes. The city was visited by Ottoman Admiral Sidi Ali Reis in 1550s and mentioned in his book Mirat ul Memalik (The Mirror of Countries), 1557 CE [5]. According to Sidi Ali Reis, the inhabitants of Gwadar were Baloch and their chief was Malik Jelaleddin, son of Malik Dinar. In 1783, the Khan of Kalat granted suzerainty over Gwadar to Taimur Sultan, the defeated ruler of Muscat. [6] When the Sultan subsequently retook Muscat, he was to continue his rule in Gwadar by appointing a Wali (or "governor"). This Wali was then ordered to subjugate the nearby coastal town of Chah Bahar (in modern-day Iran), which ... The Gwadari fort was built during Omani rule, whilst telegraph lines were later extended into the town courtesy of HRM of the British.
In 1958, the Gwadar enclave was transferred to Pakistan. It was then made part of the Balochistan province In 2002, the Gwadar Port project (of building a large, deep-sea port) was begun in the town. The government of Pakistan intends to develop the entire area in order to reduce its reliance in shipping on the port of Karachi. In addition to expanding port facilities, the Project aims to build industrial complexes in the area and to connect the town via a modern highway to the rest of Pakistan. By the end of 2004 the first phase had been completed.
[edit] Culture
Gwadar's location and history have given it a unique blend of cultures. The Arabic influence upon Gwadar is strong as a consequence of the Omani era and the close proximity of other Arab-majority regions. The legacy of the Omani slave trade is observed in the population by the presence of residents which can trace their descent from the African slaves who were trafficked through the town (en route to destinations in the Muslim Far East. The area also has a remarkable religious diversity, being home to not only Sunni muslims, but also to groups of Christians, Hindus, Parsis, and various minorities such as the Qadianis.
The Thought:
In this fast paced world of ours, all of us are busy chasing dreams - dreams someone else has envisioned for us . . . do we really know what we want ? Do we really have a sense of purpose ? have we thought to pause and see where we're headed in such a fury ? as Orison Swett Marden once put it; "We lift ourselves by our thought, we climb upon our vision of ourselves" - the question today is; do we really have a vision of ourselves ? The answer to me seems a big no; and if that's the case, we're racing towards self destruction.
The Shot:
As we stopped for breakfast at Kund Malir (after a good 3 hour sleep by the road-side on the Makran coastal highway and a visit to Hinglaj Mata *more on that soon*)
on the 28th of February 2017, I thought to give the new DJI Phantom 4 Pro a test flight. Early morning routine for these fishermen seemed interesting, with some lying on their backs after their tiring expedition. As I looked closer, one boat was being towed by the other !
EXIF
DJI Phantom 4 Pro Plus
Exposure: 1/800
Aperture: f/2.8
Focal Length: 9mm
ISO Speed: 200 ISO
Exposure Bias: 0 Step
Metering Mode: Center Weighted Average
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Hingol National Park or Hungol National Park (Urdu: ہنگول) is the largest of National Parks of Pakistan. It is on the Makran coast in Balochistan and is approximately 190 km from Karachi. The area was declared reserved in 1988.[1]
The park area covers parts of the three districts: Lasbela, Gwadar and Owaran of Balochistan province. It contains a variety of topographical features and vegetation, varying from arid sub tropical forest in the north to arid montane in the west. Large tracts of the NP are covered with drift sand and can be classified as coastal semi desert. The National Park includes the estuary of the Hingol river which supports a significant diversity of bird and fish species.
Currently, 20 staff members including 18 game watchers, two deputy rangers are responsible for the management of the Park under the guidance of the park Manager who reports to the Conservator and the Secretary Wildlife, Forest, Livestock, Environment and Tourism.
The shrine of Devi Hinglaj, the holiest among the 51 Shakti Peeths of Hinduism is situated in the park. It is a 15km trek from the main road. There is also a dirt track that leads to the site. Several thousand pilgrims visit the shrine each year.
Detailed inventories of wildlife were undertaken in 2006 and will be completed in the first half of 2007. Hingol is known to support at least 35 species of mammals, 65 species of amphibians and reptiles and 185 species of birds. Some 250 plant species were recorded in the initial surveys including 7 yet undescribed species. Many more species are yet to be collected.
The park forms an excellent habitat to wild Sindh Ibex, Afghan Urial and Chinkara Gazelle. Ibex is found in all steep mountain ranges and numerous in the Hinglaj and Rodani Kacho Mountain areas. Total population is estimated over 3000. The Urial populations are small and occur in isolated populations. The Machi and Upper Pachhri Mountains harbour the largest populations. Total population is less than 1000. The Chinkara occurs in good numbers along the great rivers (Nal-Hingol, Arra, Babro-Mar) in the Northern Plains and in the Harian and Maniji-Gurangatti valley areas. Elsewhere populations have been extirpated are very low. The total populations are preliminary estimated between 800-1200.
The Hingol River banks, estuary and mudflats forms an important habitat for migratory birds. About 40% of the bird species is related to water habitats. Migratory birds listed to visit Hingol include Dalmatian and Spot-billed Pelican, Sociable Plover, Spoonbills, Black Ibis, Black and White Stork. The Houbara Bustard (Chlamydotis undulata) visits the plains and valleys.
The River Hingol has been nurturing crocodiles for centuries. The Marsh Crocodile (Crocodylus palustris) occurs over large areas along the Hingol-Nal and some tributaries up to more than 100 km inland. The total population is about 50. There are several beaches along the more than 100 km coastline, however few tirtles visit the beaches nowadays. Historical records includes Olive Ridley (Lepidochelys olivacea) and Green Marine Turtles (Chelonia mydas). The vulnerable Spiny Tail Lizard (Uromastyx hardwickii) a mainly vegetarian lizard finds its most western distribution in Hingol.
Mammals in the park include Leopard, Jungle Cat, Caracal and Indian Desert Cat, Indian Fox, Bengal Fox and Sand Fox, Golden Jackal, Sindh Ibex, Afghan Urial, Chinkara Gazelle, Honey Badger, Indian Pangolin, Hedgehog (probably more than one species), Indian Crested Porcupine, Indian Grey Mongoose, Five striped Palm Squirrel, Wild Boar, Cape Hare and Desert Hare, Cairo Spiny mouse, Grey Spiny Mouse, Persian Jird, Indian Desert Jird and Libyian Jird, House Mouse, Roof Rat, and Mouse like Hamster. Wolf (Canis lupus pallipes) and Striped Hyena (Hyaena hyaena) are on the brink of extinction. The Leopard and Caracal populations are low.
The park has very few caves/ grottos, including one in the Dhrun Mountains with a bat population.
Birds in the park include Houbara Bustard, Dalmatian and Spot-billed Pelican, Bonnelli's eagle, Imperial eagle, Tawny eagle, Golden eagle, Eurasian griffon vulture, Egyptian vulture, Cinereous vulture, Lagger falcon, Red-headed merlin, Kestrel, Close-Barred sandgrouse, Grey partridge, See See partridge, Stone Curlew, Indian sand grouse, Coronetted sand grouse, Painted sand grouse, Eagle owl, Sind pied woodpecker, Hume's chat, Brown rock pipit, Striped buning, Finche larks, Hoopoe, Shrikes and Wheatears.
The Marsh Crocodile, Olive Ridley and Green Marine Turtles, Desert Monitor lizard, Yellow Monitor lizard, and different species of lizard and chameleon have been found in the park.
The government is all set to slice land off the Hingol National Park, the country’s largest, as the Pakistan Air Force and another defence-related organisation eye the prized real estate near the estuary whose value is likely to increase phenomenally once the Gwadar port starts functioning.
Sources in the Balochistan revenue department told Dawn that while the PAF has asked for around 80,000 acres (320 km²), including 23,000 acres (93 km²) in the national park, Pakistan Space and Upper Atmosphere Research Commission’s demand is for eight mauzas. [2]