I used to pass through Hales every time I drove to see Norwich play, from 1984 onwards. There is a backroad way to Haddiscoe then over the marshes to St Olaves and finally via Herringfleet and Somerleyton to Oulton and home.

 

Hales used to have a hospital, used I think for recuperation. Long since closed now and turned into housing, of course.

 

I used to drive through either full of anticipation of the afternoon's entertainment ahead, or go back home either so happy after seeing them win, or in despondency if we had lost. First time I drove to Carrow Road was in the spring of 1984 was to see City play Watford. City won 6-1, and John Deehan scored four. Not all afternoons were like that.

 

I can't remember the last time I drove to Norwich along the 146, to be honest. I know turning right towards Norwich used to be difficult at times, even more so now.

 

A few years back, I went looking for the church in Hales, and seeing signs pointing to another church ended up in Heckingham.

 

St Margaret is just off the main road, up a quiet lane, and yet the local louts find it in their hearts to come here to smash the windows in the chancel. I can't understand it, and after the visit here I was filled with a mix of anger and sadness. In Kent, Elmstone is a remote church, and yet the local youth there find time to smash the windows there too.

 

Inside St Margaret there are a fine selection of wall paintings and Norman arches and fittings, topped off with a thatched roof too.

 

I tried to get a good shot from distance, but the small churchyard made this difficult, hence the leaning tower in one of the shots.

 

------------------------------------------

 

Comparing Suffolk and Norfolk, as I inevitably must, I am afraid that the southern county rarely comes off best, and descriptions of Norfolk churches lend themselves to superlatives. Take Norman remains, for example - Suffolk has some, if you look for them. It has some nice doorways, at Sapiston and Westhall for example, and a Victorian rebuilding of what may or may not have been a Norman apse at Wissington. But Norfolk has more than seventy fine Norman doorways, and the best are all within a few miles of each other to the east and south-east of Norwich. Best of all are Wroxham and Heckingham, but the most complete Norman church in the county, indeed in all East Anglia, is here at Hales, two miles south of Heckingham, and like that church in the care of the Churches Conservation Trust.

St Margaret is extraordinary because so much of its original Norman fabric survives. Indeed, apart from some 13th century windows punched into the apse (a rare example of transitional vandalism!) you wouldn't know anything had happened here since the 1100s. The blank arcading on the apse is superb, and once went all the way around it. Most famous of all, the north doorway, its six orders so similar to the five at Heckingham that they must be by the same mason.

 

I had read several accounts of visits to this church, but all appeared to have been made in summer. Today, in deepest winter, I found it a stark, rather bleak place, overwhelmed by the noise from the nearby Norwich to Beccles road. Perhaps summer foliage absorbs the sound. Some churches, of course, are at their best in the bleak mid-winter, nearby Heckingham for example. But I longed for summer sunshine on those honeyed walls. A good excuse to go back in the summer.

 

Inside, the air was that of the previous day's sub-zero temperatures - it caught your breath as you went in. The interior has the prescribed simplicity of all CCT churches, a neatness and cleanness that is to be admired and imitated. Ahead is the great St Christopher, which is very faded, but the heads of the two figures are very characterful. The figure in the splay of a south wall window is probably St James with his staff. High above, two angels blowing trumpets are tucked into the eaves above where the rood loft once was.

 

There is a good view of the interior from the gallery, and you can also go into the base of the tower itself. The splays of the round windows still have the impress of the basketwork of 900 years ago - an astounding thought. Also ancient is the wooden shelf inside the aumbry on the north chancel wall.

 

The font is relatively modern, only 500 years old! The snooty little lions reminded me of their cousins at Salthouse, although the smiles here are nowhere near as friendly. There is a famous 17th century font cover associated with it - it has the silhouette of the Rector of the day on its base. It is now in safe keeping at Booton, where I had seen it a few months previously, but had omitted to photograph it. A good excuse to go back there, too.

 

Simon Knott, December 2004

 

www.norfolkchurches.co.uk/hales/hales.htm

 

------------------------------------------

 

HALES, or LODDEN-HALES,

Bigot's Manor.

 

By some accounted to be in Loddon-hundred. There were at the survey several lordships in this town: Roger Bigot, ancestor to the Earls of Nofolk, had a grant of one, which Alestan (a thane of King Harold) was deprived of; to this there belonged one carucate of land, and 40 acres with 9 bordarers, and 2 carucates in demean, one among the tenants, and 5 acres of meadow, paunage for 3 swine, one runcus, one cow, &c. and 10 sheep. There were also 13 freemen belonging to the lord's fold, and under his commendation with 40 acres of land, valued at 20s. but at the survey at 40s. this Alestan put himself under the commendation of Alwin de Tedford, in the reign of King William, and was seised of it at the time when the Conqueror gave it to Roger Bigot. But the hundred never saw any writ or livery, whereby it was granted to Alwin. All Hales was fifteen furlongs long, and 12 perches and six furlongs broad; and pays 8d. gelt. (fn. 1)

 

This lordship extended into Loddon, and was held by the Bigots Earls of Norfolk, and by the grant of Roger Bigot Earl of Norfolk, who died s. p. it came to King Edward I. and was given by King Edward II. to his brother, Thomas de Brotherton Earl of Norfolk, and so came to the Lord Segrave, the Mowbrays, and the Howards Dukes of Norfolk.

 

On the attainder of Thomas Duke of Norfolk, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, it was in the Crown, and King James I. on June 17, ao. 1, bestowed it on Thomas Lord Howard, of Walden, and Henry Howard, afterwards Earl of Northampton, from whom it passed to Thomas Howard Earl of Surry, who in the 21 of the said King, April 1, had license to alien it to Anthony Hobart, Esq. and his heirs; Anthony conveyed it in the same year to James Hobart, his son and heir, who, by deed, dated Sep. 12, ao. 12 of Charles I. sold it to Henry Humberston Esq. son of William Humberston, of Loddon by Joan, his wife, daughter of John Smith, of Lanham in Suffolk, which William was son of John Humberston of Loddon.

 

Henry had 2 wives: by Mary, daughter of Henry Yaxley of Beauthorp, Esq. his 2d wife, he had no issue; by his first wife Anne, daughter of Giles Bladwell, Esq. of Thorlow Magna, in Suffolk, was father of William Humberstone, Esq. who married Mildred, daughter of Charles Walgrave of Stanninghall in Norfolk, Esq. who conveyed this manor to Francis Gardiner, Esq. mayor of Norwich in 1685, (son of Francis Gardiner D. D. vicar of Kendal,) and burgess in parliament for that city, in 1695. Stephen Gardiner, Esq. his son, was recorder of Norwich, and died in 1727. Gardiner, bore, gules a chevron, between three griffins heads erased, or.

 

Ralph Lord Baynard was rewarded with a lordship, of which Toke, a freeman (of Stigand, the Archbishop of Canterbury) of French extraction, was deprived; consisting of 30 acres of land, 3 villains, with a carucate and 3 acres of meadow, &c. and 60 sheep; there were 12 freemen under his protection, and of his fold who held 41 acres of land, with a carucate and a half, and 3 acres of meadow: there were also 2 freemen under his protection only, with 18 acres, of land and half a carucate, also one freeman with 30 acres one, borderer and one carucate, and one acre of meadow; the whole valued at 17s. but at the survey at 30s. (fn. 2)

 

A family who took their name from this town, was early enfeoffed of it, and held it under the Lord Baynard. Roger de Hales and William, his son, were living in the reign of Henry II.—Walter de Hales, in the time of King John; and Sir Roger, son of Walter, in the 34 of Henry III. John, son of Sir Roger, in the 22 of Edward I. which Sir Roger, by deed, sans date, confirmed the exchange of lands (between 2 persons) that were held of his fee in Hales; which shows that it was the custom for lords of manors to confirm the purchases, before the statute of Quia Emplores, &c. and sealed with barry of 12, azure and or, on a canton, gules, a lion passant. Sir John de Hales was living, ao. 20 Edward III. and by Catherine, (after married to Roger de Wellesham,) was father of John de Hales, who died s. p. ao. 43 Edward III. and held this lordship of the barony of Fitz-Walter.

 

In the 17 of Richard II. William, son of Edmund de Redesham of Kirkby Caam, conveyed by fine, to Sir Robert de Willoughby, Sir Miles Stapleton, John, son of Sir John de Norwich, &c. the manor of HalesHall in Loddon, one messuage, 4 carucates of land, 24 acres of meadow, 2 of wood, 20 of marsh, and 100s. rent, in Hales, Loddon, Kirkeby, with the advowson of Hales-Hall chapel, purchased by John de Norwich in reversion; Sir George Felbrigg of Tottington, holding two parts of the manor and lands, in right (as I take it) of the widow of Edmund de Reedisham, then his wife, and Joan, widow of John de Hales, holding a 3d part in dower. (fn. 3)

 

Sir Simon Felbrigg, in the 12th of Henry IV. recovered the manor of Hales-Hall by writ of Novel Disseisin, against John Hotot, and held his first court on Tuesday next after the assumption of the blessed Virgin, and it was after settled on his two feoffees, Sir John Howard, and Sir John de Ingaldesthorp, &c.

 

In the 19th of Henry VI. Nicholas Waleys and John Pewk, were querents in a fine, and Henry Walpole, and Margaret his wife, deforciants of 10l. rent, per ann. in Loddon-Hales manor, conveyed to Pewk; and in the 30th of that King, Hugh Croke, vicar of Hale, was a trustee of Thomas Cleymonds, Esq. deceased, late lord.

 

¶After this, it was possessed by Sir James Hobart, attorney-general, and of the privy council to King Henry VII. of whom, and his ancestors, see in Plumstede Parva, in Blofield hundred. His benefactions and good works, testify his charity and generosity; he resided in his manor-house here, which he built for the most part, (and died here,) with the elegant parish church of the Holy Trinity, at Loddon; also a fair bridge over the Waveney river, between Norfolk and Suffolk, called St. Olaves, or Tooley's bridge, with a good causeway to it; (fn. 4) contributed to the rebuilding of the council chamber in the Guild-Hall of the city of Norwich, and to the noble arched stone roof of the cathedral church of Norwich. Sir Walter Hobart was his son and heir, and lord of this manor; sheriff of Norfolk and Suffolk, ao. 1, Henry VIII. in the 20 of that King, he settled this lordship, with that of Chatgrave, Lille ford's, Tilney in Norfolk, and others in Suffolk, as may be seen in Chatgrave, Loddon hundred, on Walter Hobart, Esq. his son and heir. A pedigree of the eldest branch of the family I have here annexed.

 

James Hobart, Esq. sold it in the 12 of Charles I. to Henry Humberstone, Esq. (as is mentioned in Bigot's manor above,) whose son William, is said to have conveyed part of it to Francis Gardiner, Esq. and part to the Lady Dionysia Williamson, relict of Sir Thomas Williamson, Baronet, of Markham Magna in Nottinghamshire, daughter and heir of William Hales, Esq. son of Richard Hales, Esq. who was lady of this manor of Hales-Hall, in 1666, and resided here; she gave 4000l. to the rebuilding the church of St. Dunstan in the East, of London; to the rebuilding of St. Paul's cathedral, 2001l. and was a benefactress to the rebuilding of the church of St. Mary Le Bow, in London, giving 2000l. and at her death, left Hales-Hall to John Hoskins, Esq. her nephew, (who was lord in 1687,) with the impropriated rectory of Loddon.

 

The abbot of St. Edmund of Bury, had a lordship which Frodo held of them at the survey; 9 men, 2 of them were socmen, and 7 more, belonged to the abbot's lordship, and were under his protection only, held 64 acres in King Edward's reign, when there were 2 borderers and 5 freemen, with 6 acres; this was valued with Loddon. (fn. 5)

 

Frodo, also, held of the abbot one acre, of which 2 freemen were deprived; valued at 4d. (fn. 6) Of this Frodo, &c. see in Loddon, which manor extended also into this town.

 

Godric, the King's steward, held one acre and a half, out of which a freeman was ejected: this was granted to Godric on the forfeiture of Ralph Earl of Norfolk, who had a moiety (as lord) of this freeman. (fn. 7)

 

The tenths were 2l. 10s. Deducted 10s. Temporalities of St. Olaves 8d. and of Langley abbey 24s.

 

The Church of Hales was a rectory, but granted in the 4th of Henry I. by Ralph de Chedgrave, and Emma his wife, to William, prior of St. Olaves, probably founder of that priory; and a vicar was appointed on its appropriation to that convent. It was dedicated to St. Margaret, and it appears by the register of Langley abbey, that the prior and convent of St. Olaves at Hering flete in Suffolk were rectors of Hale, and had the tithe of 235 acres of land in Hale parish belonging to Langley abbey, in exchange for 235 acres of land in Loddon and Heckingham, belonging to the priory of St. Olaves. (fn. 8)

 

In the reign of Edward I. the rectory was valued at 11 marks, and the vicarage at 40s. The vicar had then a manse with 30 acres of land. Peter-pence 18d. Carvage 12d. 0b.

 

Vicars.

 

In 1317, Adam de Blofield was instituted vicar, presented by the prior of St. Olaves, and nominated by the Bishop of Norwich.

 

1326, John de Carlethorp. Ditto.

 

1333, Roger de Petengraunt. Ditto.

 

1337, Adam de Bergh. Ditto.

 

1349, John Le Neve. Ditto.

 

1366, William Warren. Ditto.

 

1366, John Stalworth. Ditto.

 

1377, Peter de Wynch. Ditto.

 

1382, Roger Calf. Ditto.

 

1382, John Wandeford. Ditto.

 

1391, Simon Bangot. Ditto.

 

1391, John Bradock. Ditto.

 

1395, John Smith. Ditto.

 

1397, Henry Welden. Ditto.

 

1397, Thomas Coyte. Ditto.

 

1398, Richard Bytering. Ditto.

 

1403, Richard Bangoot. Ditto.

 

1403, John Ousnell Ditto.

 

1404, Walter Jakes. Ditto.

 

1413, William Norwich. Ditto.

 

1417, Thomas Smith. Ditto.

 

In 1458, Hugh Croke occurs vicar.

 

In 1503, I find it served by a stipendiary curate, for 5l. per ann. and he then returned 45 communicants, John Hill being the impropriator; and in 1742, the heirs of Mr. Peter Lawes.

 

¶Here was also a chapel at Hales-Hall, belonging to the manor of the family of De Hales, dedicated to St. Andrew: this, with the hall, stood in the parish of Loddon, and in 1287, it is said to stand in the manor of Wrantishagh, belonging to Sir Roger de Hales, in Loddon parish, and leave was then granted to him, that he might institute the chaplains of it, by the concession and grant of the abbot of Langley, rectors of the church of Loddon, and of John de Feryby, official to William, Bishop of Norwich, the said Sir Roger and his heirs granting to the chaplains all the obventions and oblations, with the small tithes of his court, and that the servant, of him and his heirs having their habitations in the parish of Loddon, shall pay to the mother church of Loddon, the oblations accustomed, and shall receive the sacraments there. (fn. 9) And the chaplains administering in the said chapel, were to pay yearly to the said mother church, in acknowledgment of subjection, all the oblations and obventions given on Easter-day, and St. Andrew's day, and two wax candles of a pound of wax, on Trinity Sunday, and to give security to the vicars of Loddon, for the time being, that they should not say any anniversaries, trentals, or any masses for any parishioners of Loddon.

 

In 1331, Sir John de Hales was patron, and in 1349; and John, son and heir of Sir John, in 1361.

 

Alexander de Hales, styled Doctor Irrefragabilis, who died in 1245, was born here. Hales, Halesworth, Halestead, Alesham and Aylesford, so called, as near to some river or water.

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/topographical-hist-norfolk/vol8...

A round towered church with a spire; somewhat unusual I imagine. Someone might like to correct me on that and I find its quite common.

 

I had seen shots of St George taken from the air by my Flickr friend, John Fielding. I decided to see if any of the churches he had snapped were near to my route to Cambridge, and found they were.

 

I did not think of going to Shimpling this day, but as this and Frenze are under the care of the Church Conservation Trust, an information board at the latter said I should go to the former if I enjoyed Frenze.

 

So I did.

 

Driving through Diss, trying to program the sat nav, easy as the main road through the town, under the railway bridge was a solid line of traffic, I only hoped that Shimpling would not be back the way I had just come.

 

The route took me through some of the narrow streets of the town centre, a place to go back to to explore I think, but my route took me out north through the modern houses then into the flat countryside of south Norfolk.

 

I arrived in Shimpling, a few houses and farms; where could the church be, and just as I was about to stop and annoy the lorry behind, I saw the information board at the start of the farm track leading to St George.

 

------------------------------------------

 

.

St George is a familiar sight to drivers between Ipswich and Norwich, off in the fields near Dickleburgh. A substantial, landmark church; and yet it is redundant. Coming from Suffolk, where the local Anglican Diocese goes out of its way to avoid redundancies if it can, Shimpling's redundancy seemed careless. This is not a tiny village, and if drawn into a group with Dickleburgh could surely have sustained a monthly service or so. Probably, if it arose nowadays, St George would not be declared redundant. From the point of view of the building, of course, it was both a blessing and a mercy, as the church is now in the capable, caring hands of the Churches Conservation Trust.

 

The setting of St George just to the south of its village is superb. A cart track leads up from a farm, difficult of access at the best of times, but suicide on this day when the snow still lay deep in the ruts, the mud sucking at our boots. If we had attempted to drive it then I guess the tractor would be getting to us about now. The keyholders both live about a mile off, but the walk was worth it.

 

St George is perhaps more typical of Suffolk than Norfolk, a rural church made opulent by the wealth of the later years of the 15th century. Then came the font, the benches, the roof, the surviving scattering of medieval angel glass. Otherwise, the feeling is of the much-maligned Victorians, who loved churches and wanted this one restored to its former glory. Geoffery Millard, rector through those times, has his memorial in the chancel, but all around it is the building that he would recognise instantly if he stepped into it today.

 

Amber light filled the space beneath the tower, and I was glad I was here, in this silent frozen space, this touchstone to the long generations. Some curiosities: under the benches at the west end, there is a trap door. Inside, some of the original medieval tiles have survived the Victorians; they merely built a wooden platform over them. Then, a wholly secular brass inscription of 1591 to Anthony le Grys is set in the mddle of the nave - but the inlay is the wrong size and shape, and so it must come originally from somewhere else. A small hole in the north wall of the sanctuary is surely too tiny to have been an aumbry. And yet, it is set back to take a door, and appears once to have had some sort of wooden tympanum set over it. Could it have been a squint from a shrine chapel? Or even from an anchorite's cell?

 

Incidentally, another curious thing: There is a Shimpling in Suffolk as well, and the churches of both are dedicated to St George, an otherwise unusual East Anglian dedication. The reason appears to be that the enthusiastic 18th century antiquarians, ruttling around in the Diocesan records at Norwich, accidentally applied the dedication of the Suffolk church to both, dedications having fallen out of use for two hundred years or more.

 

Simon Knott, March 2005

  

www.norfolkchurches.co.uk/shimpling/shimpling.htm

 

-----------------------------------------

 

SHIMPLING

¶Is bounded on the east by Dickleburgh, on the west by Burston, on the south by Thelton, and on the north by Gissing. It is a rectory appendant to the manor, and being discharged of first fruits and tenths, is capable of augmentation. The rectory hath a house and 16 acres of glebe: Norwich Domesday says, that Richard de Boyland was then patron, that the rector had a house and xv. acres of land; that the procurations were then vi.s. viii.d. and the synodals xxii.d.

 

Rectors.

 

1305, 6 kal. Dec. Robert de Boswyle, accolite, William de Schympling.

 

1328, 7 kal. Mar. Will. de Schymplyng, accolite. Roger, son of Will. de Shympling.

 

1338, 12 July, John de Cherchegate, priest to St. George's church at Shympling. Ditto.

 

1349, Robert Sampson, priest. Emma, late wife of Roger de Schymplyng.

 

1361, 13 Sept. Ric. de Halle, priest. Ditto.

 

1362, 21 Sept. Peter Scott. Ditto.

 

1386, 19 April, Tho. de Welles. Thomas de Glemesford.

 

1393, 28 March, Welles changed this with John Mulle for Mildeston rectory, in Sarum diocese. Roger de Ellingham and Joan Hardegrey.

 

1396, 29 March, Mulle exchanged with Will. Stone for Ludenham in Kent. Ditto.

 

1401, 29 Aug. John Drury, priest, who resigned Watton vicarage in exchange for this. Roger de Elyngham.

 

1408, 7 Aug. John Cok of Illington, priest.

 

1421, 8 Octob. Reginald Pepper of Berton Bendysch, priest, on the resignation of Cok. Ditto.

 

1421, 6 March, Tho. Young, on Pepper's resignation. William, son of Roger de Elyngham of Elyngham, near Bungey.

 

1422, 22 March, Rich. Senyngwell, on Young's resignation. Ditto.

 

1430, 20 Sept. Walter Skyde of Disse. Lapse.

 

1432, 23 Octob. Thomas Wright. Lapse.

 

1434, 14 Dec. John Grygby. William Elyngham of Elyngham by Bungey.

 

1437, 12 Octob. Richard de Schymplyng, on Grygby's resignation. William Elyngham of Elyngham by Bungey.

 

1449, 31 Jan. Robert Caade, resigned to John Beest, in exchange for Winterburn Basset rectory, in Wiltshire. Ditto.

 

1451, 21 April, Thomas Messinger, on Beest's death. Ditto.

 

1504, John Odiham.

 

1507, 4 Aug. James Galle. (fn. 1) Lapse.

 

1525, 19 Octob. Thomas Warde. Thomas Shardelowe, Esq.

 

1536, 26 March, John Lanman, (fn. 2) on Ward's death. John Aldham, lord of the moiety of Elyngham's manor here, by turns.

 

1563, 26 June, Thomas Oxford, alias Farmor, A. M. Stephen Shardelowe, Gent.

 

1572, 24 Nov. William Luffkyn, on Oxford's resignation. Stephen Shardelowe, and John Aldham, patrons.

 

1609, 1 Aug. Nicholas Colte. (fn. 3) John Sherdelowe.

 

1642, Jeremiah Gowen. (fn. 4) Adrian Mott of Braintree, and Margaret Carter of Stratford in Essex.

 

1649, Thomas Cole, (fn. 5) clerk, A. M. John and James Mott, Gent.

 

1684, 9 Dec. John Rand. John Buxton, Esq. united to Burston.

 

1706, 1 Jan. John Calver, on Rand's death. Robert Buxton, Esq. united to Gissing.

 

1729, The Rev. Mr. Thomas Buxton, the present rector, [1736,] united to Thorp-Parva.

 

The Church hath a steeple, round at bottom, and octangular at top, and four small bells; it is leaded, though the chancel is thatched, and the north porch tiled. It is dedicated to St. George, (fn. 6) whose effigies, with his shield, viz. arg. a plain cross gul. is to be seen in a south window of the chancel, and seems to be as old as the building, which in all appearance was in the beginning of the thirteenth century, (though the steeple is much older,) for then William de Shimplyng was lord and patron, whose arms still remain under this effigies, viz. arg. a chief gul. a fess between six de-lises sab.

 

Here was a Gild in honour of the same saint, (fn. 7) and a Chapel dedicated to St. Mary, which stood in Shimpling Hithe, of which there are no remains. This had some endowment, for Girrard the Prior, (fn. 8) and his Chapter at Norwich, with the Bishop's consent, granted to Richard the chaplain of Shimpling, 7 roods of meadow in Roreker in Shimpling, &c. in perpetual alms, paying yearly 5d. at the high altar in the cathedral, to which John Pierson of Gissing, and others, were witnesses, (fn. 9) so that this must be before 1201, for in that year Gerrard the Prior died; this was down before the general dissolution, for I meet with no grant of it at that time.

 

St. George and the dragon, and the arms of Shimpling, are carved on the font; the chancel is covered with large grave-stones, all disrobed of their brasses; several of them were laid over the rectors, as appear from the chalice and wafer upon them, that being the symbol of a priest; the rest that had arms, I take to be laid over the Shimplings and the Shardelows. The arms of

 

Shardelow are, arg. a chevron gul. between three croslets fitchee, az. Crest, a plume of feathers arg.

 

On a small stone towards the west end of the church:

 

Richard Lesingham, ob. 5° die. Octob. Anno Dni. 1705, Ætatis suæ - - - -

 

Here let him rest, Memory stile him dear, 'Till our Redeemer Shall in the clouds appear.

 

On a marble near the pulpit: arms of

 

Potter, sab. a fess between three mullets arg. Crest, an elephant's head erased arg. gutte de sang.

 

Here in expectation of a joyful resurrection, resteth the body of Cicill Potter, Gent. who dyed Jan. the 29th, 1693, aged 70 years.

 

In a window:

 

Gloria in Errelsis Deo.

 

Here are twelve penny loaves given to as many poor people, by the rector and church-wardens, on the first Sunday in every month, there being land tied for it.

 

In the Confessor's time Torbert held this manor of Stigand, it being then worth 20s. of whom the part in Gissing was also held by another freeman, and was then of 5s. value, but was risen to ten in the Conqueror's time, though Shimpling continued at the same value. This, as one manor, was given by the Conqueror to Roger Bygod, who gave it to Robert de Vais, (de Vallibus, or Vaus,) it being then a mile and a quarter long, and a mile broad. (fn. 10) The whole paid 5d. Geld. There was then a church and 10 acres glebe, valued at 12d. and several other manors extended hither, of which I shall afterwards treat in their proper places. The Vaises held it of Bygod's successors, till 1237, in which year Oliver de Vallibus (fn. 11) granted it to Richard de Rupella, (afterwards called Rokele,) settling it on him and his heirs by fine, (fn. 12) to be held of him by knight's service; he died in 1287, at which time he held it of John de Vallibus. This Richard granted it to be held of him and his heirs by Richard de Boyland, in trust for Ralph Carbonell, (fn. 13) who held it of Maud, wife of William de Roos, who was daughter and coheir of John de Vaux. This Ralph conveyed it to

 

Roger de Schymplyng, to be held by knight's service of Richard Rokeles's heirs; and in 1280, the said Roger (fn. 14) was lord, the manor being settled upon him, and Emma his wife, in tail; after their deaths it came to William de Schympling, (fn. 15) their son, who held it of Richard Rokell at half a fee, he of the Earl-Marshal, and he of the King in capite. This William married Margaret de Tacolveston, (fn. 16) on whom the manor was settled for life in 1303, it being then held of William de Roos and Maud his wife, and Petronell de Vaux, her sister. This William purchased a great part of the town of divers persons. He had a son named Roger, who presented in 1328, and held it till about 1345, when he was dead, and Emma his wife had it, at whose death it fell divisible between their three daughters: (fn. 17)

 

Isabel, married to John Kirtling, to whom this manor was allotted;

 

Joan, who had Moring-Thorp manor, and

 

Katerine, married to William de Ellyngham, who had Dalling manor in Flordon. Isabell had issue, Roger and Emma, who left none, so that this manor and advowson descended to Roger, son of William de Elyngham and Katerine his wife, daughter of Roger de Schymplyng, which said Roger de Elyngham held it in 1401, by half a fee, of John Copledick, Knt. who held it of the Lady Roos, she of Thomas Mowbray, and he in capite of the King. How it went from the Elynghams I do not know, but imagine it must be by female heiresses; for in 1521, Humphry Wyngfield had a moiety of it, and John Aldham had another part; he died in 1558, and was buried in this chancel, leaving his part to John his son, (fn. 18) who held it jointly with Bonaventure Shardelowe, in 1571; Mr. Aldham had a fourth part of the manor, and a third turn, and Mr. Shardelow three parts and two turns. The patronage and manor was in Mr. John Motte, who was buried October 7, 1640, and John Motte, and his brother James, presented in 1649. It looks as if the Mottes had Aldham's part, and after purchased Shardelow's of Mr. John Shardelowe, who held it till 1611, together with Dalling manor in Florden, which was held of Shimpling manor. He conveyed it to Edmund Skipwith, Esq. and Antony Barry, Gent. and they to Thomas Wales, and John Basely, Gent. who conveyed it to the Motts, from whom, I am apt to think, it came to the Proctors, for John Buxton of St. Margaret's in South Elmham had it, in right of his wife, who was kinswoman and heiress of Mr. Proctor, rector of Gissing; after this it came to Robert Buxton, Esq. who died and left it to Elizabeth his wife, who is since dead, and Elizabeth Buxton, their only daughter, a minor, is now [1736] lady and patroness.

 

The Leet belongs to the manor, and the fine is at the lord's will.

 

As to the other parts of this village, (fn. 19) they being parts of the manors of Titshall, Fersfield, and Brisingham, it is sufficient to observe, that they went with those manors, except that part held by Fulco, of which the register called Pinchbek, fo. 182, says that Fulco or Fulcher held of the Abbot in Simplingaham and Gissing, 70 acres, and 4 borderers, being infeoffed by Abbot Baldwin in the time of the Conqueror; this, about Edward the First's time, was in Sir John Shardelowe, a judge in that King's reign, in whose family it continued till 1630, when it was sold to Mr. Mott. The seat of the Shardelows is now called the Place, and is the estate of the Duke of Grafton; and (as I am informed) formerly belonged to Isaac Pennington, (fn. 20) alderman of London, one of those rebels that sat as judges at the King's trial, for which villainy he was knighted. He lived to the Restoration, when, according to his deserts, his estates were seized as forfeited to King Charles II. who gave this to the Duke of Grafton; upon the forfeiture, the copyhold on the different manors were also seized, which is the reason that the quitrents to Gissing, Titshall, &c. are so large, they being made so when the Lords regranted them.

 

¶I have seen an ancient deed made by John Camerarius, or Chambers, of Shimpling, to Richard de Kentwell, clerk, and Alice his wife, and their heirs, of 3 acres of land in this town, witnessed by Sir Gerard de Wachesam, Knt. and others, which is remarkable, for its never having any seal, and its being dated at Shimpling in the churchyard, on Sunday next before Pentecost, anno 1294. (fn. 21) This shews us that seals (as Lambard justly observes (fn. 22) ) were not in common use at this time; and, therefore, to make a conveyance the most solemn and publick that could be, the deed was read to the parish, after service, in the churchyard, that all might know it, and be witnesses, if occasion required. The Saxons used no seals, only signed the mark of a cross to their instruments, to which the scribe affixed their names, by which they had a double meaning; first, to denote their being Christians, and then, as such, to confirm it by the symbol of their faith. The first sealed charter we meet with is that of Edward the Confessor to Westminster abbey, which use he brought with him from Normandy, where he was brought up; and for that reason it was approved of by the Norman Conqueror; though sealing grew into common use by degrees, the King at first only using it, then some of the nobility, after that the nobles in general, who engraved on their seals their own effigies covered with their coat armour; after this, the gentlemen followed, and used the arms of their family for difference sake. But about the time of Edward III. seals became of general use, and they that had no coat armour, sealed with their own device, as flowers, birds, beasts, or whatever they chiefly delighted in, as a dog, a hare, &c.; and nothing was more common than an invention or rebus for their names, as a swan and a tun for Swanton, a hare for Hare, &c.; and because very few of the commonality could write, (all learning at that time being among the religious only,) the person's name was usually circumscribed on his seal, so that at once they set both their name and seal, which was so sacred a thing in those days, that one man never used another's seal, without its being particularly taken notice of in the instrument sealed, and for this reason, every one carried their seal about them, either on their rings, or on a roundel fastened sometimes to their purse, sometimes to their girdle; nay, oftentimes where a man's seal was not much known, he procured some one in publick office to affix theirs, for the greater confirmation: thus Hugh de Schalers, (or Scales,) a younger son of the Lord Scales's family, parson of Harlton in Cambridgeshire, upon his agreeing to pay the Prior of Bernewell 30s. for the two third parts of the tithe corn due to the said Prior out of several lands in his parish, because his seal was known to few, he procured the archdeacon's official to put his seal of office, for more ample confirmation: (fn. 23) and when this was not done, nothing was more common than for a publick notary to affix his mark, which being registered at their admission into their office, was of as publick a nature as any seal could be, and of as great sanction to any instrument, those officers being always sworn to the true execution of their office, and to affix no other mark, than that they had registered, to any instrument; so their testimony could be as well known by their mark, as by their name; for which reason they were called Publick Notaries, Nota in Latin signifying a mark, and Publick because their mark was publickly registered, and their office was to be publick to all that had any occasion for them to strengthen their evidence. There are few of these officers among us now, and such as we have, have so far varied from the original of their name, that they use no mark at all, only add N. P. for Notary Publick, at the end of their names. Thus also the use of seals is now laid aside, I mean the true use of them, as the distinguishing mark of one family from another, and of one branch from another; and was it enjomed by publick authority, that every one in office should, upon his admission, choose and appropriate to himself a particular seal, and register a copy of it publickly, and should never use any other but that alone, under a severe penalty, I am apt to think, in a short time we should see the good effects of it; (fn. 24) for a great number of those vagabonds that infest our country under pretence of certificates signed by proper magistrates, (whose hands are oftener counterfeit than real,) would be detected; for though it is easy for an ill-designing person to forge a handwriting, it is directly the contrary as to a seal; and though it is in the power of all to know the magistrates names, it is but very few of such sort of people that could know their seals; so that it would in a great measure (if not altogether) put a stop to that vile practice; and it would be easy for every magistrate to know the seals of all others, if they were entered properly, engraved, and published: and it might be of service, if all the office seals in England (or in those foreign parts that any way concern the realm) were engraved and published, for then it would be in every one's power to know whether the seals of office affixed to all passes, &c. were genuine or no; for it is well known that numbers travel this nation, under pretence of passes from our consuls and agents abroad, and sometimes even deceive careful magistrates with the pretended hands and seals of such, it being sometimes impossible for them to know the truth, which by this means would evidently appear. And thus much, and a great deal more, may be said to encourage the true and original use of that wise Conqueror's practice, who can scarce be said to put any thing into use but what he found was of advantage to his government.

 

This rectory is in Norfolk archdeaconry, and Redenhall deanery: it had 69 communicants in 1603, and hath now [1736] 23 houses, and about 130 inhabitants. The town is valued at 300l. per annum. (fn. 25) Here are 3 acres of town land, one piece is a small pightle abutting on the land of Robert Leman, Esq. another piece is called Susan's pightle, lying in Gissing, and was given by a woman of this name, to repair the church porch, (as I am informed,) the other piece lies in Diss Heywode, and pays an annual rent of 5s.

 

The Commons are Kett's Fen, which contains about 4 acres; Pound Green, 1 acre; Hall Green, 4 acres; the Bottom, 6 acres; and the Lower Green, 6 acres.

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/topographical-hist-norfolk/vol1...

I visit Stockbury a lot in the spring and early summer, to see the local orchids and other wild flowers. But have only been inside the church once before, and only taken wide angle shots.

 

So, long overdue for a return.

 

Stockbury overlooks the northern end of the A249, just before it reaches the Medway towns and the M2, but is set high on the wooded down above the traffic, and although the noise never quite fades away, it is a distant hum.

 

St Mary sits on the very edge of the down, as the lane tumbles down to join the main road below, but the churchyard, and church are an oasis of calm and tranquility.

 

Looking at this shot especially, I see that the roof supports seem to have been built into the former clerestory windows?

 

------------------------------------------

 

A fire of 1836 and a restoration of 1851 have left their marks on this prominent Downland church. The east wall of the chancel contains three lancets, of nineteenth-century origin, which contain some lovely glass of the early years of the twentieth century. To the north and south of the chancel are transepts separated by nicely carved screens. The southern transept is the more picturesque, for its roof timbers are exposed and below, in its east wall, are three sturdy windows of which the centre one is blocked. The west end of the nave is built up to form a platform upon which stands the organ. On either side of the chancel arch are typical nineteenth-century Commandment Boards, required by law until the late Victorian era, with good marble shafting to mirror the medieval work in the chancel.

 

www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Stockbury

 

-------------------------------------------

 

STOCKBURY

IS the next parish northward from Hucking. It is called in the survey of Domesday, Stochingeberge, in later records, Stockesburie, and now Stockbury.

 

The western, which is by far the greatest part of it, lies in the hundred of Eyhorne, and division of West Kent, the remainder of it in that of Milton, and division of East Kent, over which part that manor claims, but the church and village being in the former district, the parish is esteemed as being in the former division of the county.

 

This parish lies on each side of the valley, called from it Stockbury valley, along which the high road leads from Key-street to Detling-hill, and thence to Maidstone; hence it extends on the hills on each side, for more than a mile. It lies mostly on high ground, and though exposed to the northern aspect, is not, especially on the northern side of the valley, near so bleak and cold as the parishes on the hills, lately before-described, nor is the soil, though much like them, and very flinty in general, quite so poor; and on the north side next to Hartlip and Newington, there is some land much more fertile, partaking more of the loam, and much less mixed with flints; the sides of the valley are covered with coppice woods, which extend round the western boundary of the parish, where there is some uninclosed. downe, being poor ruffit land, and a wild and dreary country.

 

On the north side of the valley, close to the summit of the hill, is the church, with the court-lodge near it, and a small distance further, on the north side of the parish, the village called Stockbury-street, in which stands the parsonage, and a little further Hill-greenhouse, the residence of William Jumper, esq. having an extensive prospect northward over the neighbouring country, and the channel beyond it, the former owners of which seat will be mentioned in the description of Yelsted manor hereafter; at a small distance southward from hence are the two hamlets of Guilsted and South-streets, situated close to the brow of the hill adjoining to the woods.

 

On the south side of the valley the woodland continues up the hills, westward of which is the hamlet of Southdean-green adjoining the large tract of woodland called Binbury wood. The manor of Southdean belongs to Mr. John Hudson, of Bicknor. On the eastern side of the woodland first mentioned is the hamlet of Pett, at the south-east boundary of the parish, which was formerly the property and residence of a family of that name, Reginald atte Pett resided here, and by his will in 1456 gave several legacies to the church towards a new beam, a new bell called Treble, the work of the new isle, and the making a new window there. Near it is a small manor called the Yoke of Hamons atte Deane, and upon these hills the small manors are frequently called Yokes.

 

There is a fair for pedlary, toys, &c. formerly on St. Mary Magdalen's day, July 22, but now by the al teration of the style, on August 2, yearly, which is held by order of the lord of the manor on the broad green before the Three Squirrels public-house in Stockbury valley.

 

On June 24, 1746, hence called the Midsummer storm, the most dreadful tempest happened that was ever remembered by the oldest man then living. The chief force of it was felt in the northern part of the middle of the county, and in some few parts of East Kent. It directed its course from the southward, and happily spread only a few miles in width, but whereever it came, its force was irresistible, overturning every thing in its way, and making a general desolation over every thing it passed. The morning was very close and hot, with a kind of stagnated air, and towards noon small, bright, undulated clouds arose, which preceded the storm, with a strong south wind; it raised a torrent, and the flashes of lightning were incessant, like one continued blaze, and the thunder without intermission for about fifteen or twenty minutes. When the tempest was over, the sky cleared up, and the remainder of the day was remarkably bright and serene. From an eminence of ground the passage of the storm might easily be traced by the eye, by the destruction it had made, quite to the sea and the waters of the Swale to which it passed. Neither the eastern or western extremities of the county felt any thing of it.

 

This place, at the time of taking the general survey of Domesday, in the year 1080, was part of the extensive possessions of Odo, the great bishop of Baieux, the Conqueror's half brother, under the general title of whose lands it is thus described:

 

The same Ansgotus, de Rochester, holds of the bishop (of Baieux) Stockingeberge. It was taxed at two sulings. The arable land is. In demesne there are two carucates, and five villeins, with nine borderers having two carucates. There is a church, and two servants, and one mill of sixty-four pence. Wood for the pannage of fifteen hogs. In the time of king Edward the Consessor, and afterwards, it was worth four pounds, now six pounds. Elveva held it of king Edward.

 

After the bishop's forfeiture of all his lands, which happened about four years afterwards, this place came into the possession of the family of Auberville, being held by them of Roger de St. John, as one knight's fee. Roger de Aubervill, for de Albrincis, was a man who held large possessions at the time of the general survey before-mentioned. William de Aubervill, his descendant, in 1192, anno 4 Richard I. founded the priory of Langdon, in this county, and his descendant of the same name died possessed of the manor of Stokinburie in the 36th year of Henry III. holding it by knight's service.

 

He left an only daughter and heir Joane, who carried it in marriage to Nicholas de Criol, a man of eminence in his time, who attending Edward I. at the siege of Carlaverock, in Scotland, was there made a knight banneret for his services performed at it, and in the 21st year of it he was allowed, by the justices itinerant, to have free-warren for all his estate here, except one plough-land, which was called Stannerland. He died possessed of this manor in the 31st year of that reign, and Philipott says many of their deeds bore teste, from their castle of Stockbury, which means no more, than its being one of the castellated seats of the family, as did his grandson John, in the 9th year of king Edward III. at which time he spelt his name Keryell.

 

After which it remained in his descendants down to Sir Thomas Kiriell, knight of the garter, eminent for his services to the house of York, during the reign of Henry VI. but being taken prisoner at the battle of Bernards-heath, near St. Albans, sought anno 38 king Henry VI. in which the Yorkists were defeated, he was, by the queen's order, beheaded, notwithstanding the king had granted him his life, when it was found by inquisition, that he held this manor of the king in capite by knight's service, by homage, and paying to the ward of Rochester castle yearly, and to the king's court of Mylton. He died without male issue, leaving two daughters his coheirs, one of whom, Elizabeth, carried this manor in marriage to John Bourchier, whom she survived, and afterwards died possessed of it in the 14th year of Henry VII. holding it in manner as before-mentioned. Soon after which it appears to have been alienated to Robert Tate, who died possessed of it in the 16th year of that reign, holding it by the like service. His descendant William Tate, who in the reign of James I. alienated it to Sir Edward Duke, of Cosington, in Aylesford, whose widow held it in jointure at the time of the restoration of king Charles II.

 

Her son, George Duke, esq. alienated it to John Conny, surgeon, and twice mayor of Rochester, and son of Robert Conny, of Godmanchester, in Huntingdonshire. John Conny, together with his son Robert Conny, of Rochester, M. D. conveyed it in 1700 to Thomas Lock, gent. of Rochester, who bore for his arms, Parted per fess, azure, and or, a pale counterchanged, three falcons, volant of the second, and his widow Prudentia, together with her three sons and coheirs in gavelkind, Robert, Thomas, and Henry, in 1723, passed it away by sale to Sir Roger Meredith, bart. of Leeds-abbey, who dying s.p. in 1738, left it by will to his niece Susanna Meredith, in tail general, with divers remainders over, in like manner as Leedsabbey before-described, with which it came at length, by the disposition of the same will, the intermediate remainders having ceased, to William Jumper, esq. of Hill-green-house, in this parish, who resided at Leeds-abbey, and afterwards joined with Sir Geo. Oxenden, bart. in whom the fee of it, after Mr. Jumper's death without male issue, was become vested, in the conveyance of this manor in fee to John Calcraft, esq. of Ingress, who died in 1772, and by his will devised it to his son John Calcraft, and he sold it in 1794 to Flint Stacey, esq, of Maidstone, the present owner of it.

 

YELSTED, or as it is spelt, Gillested, is a manor in this parish, which was formerly part of the possessions of the noted family of Savage, who held it of the family of Auberville, as the eighth part of one knight's fee. John de Savage, grandson of Ralph de Savage, who was with Richard I. at the siege of Acon, obtained a charter of free-warren for his lands here in the 23d year of Edward I. Roger de Savage, in the 5th year of Edward II. had a grant of liberties for his demesne lands here, and Arnold, son of Sir Thomas Savage, died possessed of it in the 49th year of king Edward III. and left it to his son Sir Arnold Savage, of Bobbing, whose son Arnold dying s.p. his sister Elizabeth became his heir. She was then the wife of William Clifford, esq. who in her right became possessed of this manor among the rest of her inheritance, and in his descendants it continued till the latter end of king Henry VIII.'s reign, when Lewis Clifford, esq. alienated it to Knight, whose descendant Mr. Richard Knight, gent, of Helle-house, in this parish, died possessed of it in 1606, and was buried in this church; his descendant William Knight leaving an only daughter and heir Frances, widow of Mr. Peter Buck, of Rochester, who bore for his arms, Argent, on a bend, azure, between two cotizes, wavy, sable, three mullets, or. He died soon after the death of Charles I. when she entered into the possession of this manor, after whose death her heirs passed it away by sale to Sir William Jumper, commissioner of his Majesty's navy at Plymouth. He had been knighted in 1704, for his services, as well at he taking of Gibraltar, as in the naval engagement with the French afterwards, being at both commander of the Lenox man of war, who died at Plymouth, where he was buried in 1715. He bore for his arms, Argent, two bars gemelles, sable, between three mullets of six points, pierced, gules. His son, William Jumper, esq. was of Hill-green-house, as it is now called, and died in 1736, leaving by Jane his wife, daughter of Thomas Hooper, gent. one son, William Jumper, esq. of Hill-green, likewise, who sold it, about 1757, to the Rev. Pierce Dixon, master of the mathematical free school at Rochester, and afterwards vicar of this parish, who died possessed of it in 1766, leaving it in the possession of his widow, Mrs. Grace Dixon, (daughter of Mr. Broadnax Brandon, gent. of Shinglewell), who soon afterwards remarried with Mr. Richard Hull, of London, who resided at Hill-green-house, and afterwards sold this manor, together with that seat, to William Jumper, esq. the former owner of it, who now resides here, and is the present possessor of both of them.

 

COWSTED is another manor in Stockbury, which was antiently written Codested, and was possessed by a family who took their surname from it, and resided here. They bore for their arms, Gules, three leopards heads, argent; which coat was afterwards assumed by Hengham. William de Codested died possessed of this manor in the 27th year of Edward I. holding it of the king in capite by the service of one sparrow-hawk, or two shillings yearly at the king's exchequer, as did his son William de Codestede in the 3d year of king Edward III. when it was found by inquisition, that he held this manor by the above-mentioned service, and likewise a burgage in Canterbury, of the king, of the serme of that city, and that Richard de Codestede was his brother and next heir, whose son John de Codestede, vulgarly called Cowsted, about the beginning of king Richard II.'s reign, leaving an only daughter and heir, married to Hengham, he became in her right possessed of it, and assumed her arms likewise.

 

His descendant, Odomarus de Hengham, resided here, who dying in 1411, anno 13 Henry IV. was buried in Christ-church, Canterbury, and it continued in his name till the reign of Henry. VI. when it was car ried, partly by marriage and partly by sale, by Agnes, a sole daughter and heir to John Petyte, who afterwards resided here, and dying in 1460, lies buried with her within the Virgin Mary's chapel, or south chancel, in this church. One of his descendants, in the reign of queen Elizabeth, sold it to Osborne, and Edward Osborne, gent. died possessed of it in 1622, and lies buried in the north chancel of this church. He bore for his arms, Quarterly, argent, and azure, in the first and fourth quarter, an ermine spot, sable; over all, on a cross, or, five annulets, sable; whose son, of the same name, leaving an only daughter and heir Mary, she entitled her husband, William Fagg, to the possession of it.

 

His descendant, John Fagg, esq. of Wiston, in Sussex, was created a baronet on December 11, 1660, and died in 1700, leaving three sons, Sir Robert, his successor; Charles, ancestor of the present baronet, of whom an account will be given under Chartham; and Thomas, who married Elizabeth, widow of John Meres, esq. by whom he left a son John Meres Fagg, esq. of whom an account will be given under Brenset. (fn. 1) Sir Robert Fagg, bart. his successor, left one son Robert, and four daughters, one of whom married Gawen Harris Nash, esq. of Petworth, in Sussex, and Elizabeth, another daughter, was the second wife of Sir Charles Mathews Goring, bart. of that county. Sir Robert Fagg, bart. the son, dying s.p. in 1740, devised this manor, with that of Cranbrooke, in Newington, and other estates in these parts, and in Sussex, to his sister Elizabeth, who entitled her husband Sir Charles Mathews Goring, bart. above-mentioned, to the possession of them. He left by her a son Charles Goring, esq. of Wiston, in Sussex, who sold this manor, with his other estates in this parish and Newington, to Edward Austen, esq. who is the present possessor of them.

 

IT APPEARS by the antient ledger book of the abbey of St. Austin's; near Canterbury, that the abbot and convent were antiently possessed of A PORTION OF TITHES issuing from the manor of Cowsted in Stockbury, which portion continued part of the possessions of the monastery till the dissolution of it, in the 30th year of Henry VIII. when the abbey, with all its revenues, was surrendered up into the king's hands.

 

This portion of tithes, or at least part of it, consisting of the great tithes of two hundred and thirty five acres of land, was afterwards granted in fee to Petytt, from which name it was alienated, with the manor of Cowsted, to Osborne, and it passed afterwards with it in like manor down to Sir Robert Fagg, bart. on whose death s. p. in 1740, one of his sisters entitled her husband Gawen Harris Nash, esq. by his will, to the possession of it, whose son alienated it to Charles Goring, esq. before-mentioned, and he sold it to Edward Austen, esq. the present owner of it.

 

NETTLESTED is an estate here, which by the remains of the antient mansion of it, situated in Stockburystreet, appears to have been once a seat of some note. The family of Plot, ancestors to that eminent naturalist Dr. R. Plot, possessed it, at least as early as the reign of Edward IV. when William Plot resided here, where his descendants continued till Robert Plot, gent. of Nettlested, having, in the 2d year of queen Elizabeth, purchased Sutton barne in the adjoining parish of Borden, removed thither. His heirs alienated Nettlested to Mr. Richard Allen, of Stockbury, whose descendant Thomas Allen, afterwards, with Gertrude his wife, anno 9 George I. alienated it to Mr. John Thurston, of Chatham, whose son Mr. Thomas Thurston, of that place, attorney-at-law, conveyed it to that learned antiquary John Thorpe, M. D. of Rochester, who died possessed of it in 1750, and was buried in the chancel belonging to this estate, on the north side of Stockbury church. He left one son John Thorpe, esq. of Bexley, whose two daughters and coheirs, Catherina-Elizabeth married to Thomas Meggison, esq. of Whalton near Morpeth, in Northumberland, and Ethelinda-Margaretta married to Cuthbert Potts, esq. of London, are the present possessors of it. (fn. 2)

 

THERE is a portion of tithes, which consists of those of corn and hay growing on forty acres of the lands belonging to the estate of Nettlested, which formerly belonged to the almonry of St. Augustine's monastery, and is called AMBREL TANTON, corruptly for Almonry Tanton. After the dissolution of the above-mentioned monastery, this portion was granted by Henry VIII. in his 36th year, to Ciriac Pettit, esq. of Colkins, who anno 35 Elizabeth, passed it away to Robert Plot; since which it has continued in the same succession of owners, that Nettlested, above-described, has, down to the two daughters and coheirs of John Thorpe, esq. of Bexley, before-mentioned, who are the present owners of it.

 

Charities.

A PERPETUAL ANNUITY of 2l. 10s. per annum was given in 1721, by the will of Mrs. Jane Bentley, of St. Andrew's, Holborne, and confirmed by that of Edward Bentley, esq. (fn. 3) her executor, payable out of an estate in the parish of Smeeth. which was, in 1752, the property of Mrs. Jane Jumper, and now of Mr. Watts; to be applied for the use of three boys and three girls, to go to school to some old woman in this parish, for four years, and no longer, and then 40s. more from it to buy for each of them a bible, prayer-book, and Whole Duty of Man.

 

MR. JAMES LARKIN, of this parish, gave by will an annuity, payable out of the lands of Mr. James Snipp, to the poor of this parish, of 1l. per annum produce.

 

SIX ACRES OF LAND, near South-street, were given by a person unknown to the like use, of the yearly produce of 2l. 8s. vested in the minister and churchwardens.

 

AN UNKNOWN PERSON gave for the use of the poor a cottage on Norden green, in this parish, vested in the same, of the annual produce of 1l.

 

AN UNKNOWN PERSON gave for the like use a field; containing between two and three acres, lying near Dean Bottom, in Bicknor, now rented by Robert Terry, vested in the same, and of the annual produce of 12s.

 

A COTTAGE in the street was given for the use of the poor, by an unknown person, vested in the same, and of the annual produce of 1l.

 

The number of poor constantly relieved are about thirty-six, casually fifteen.

 

STOCKBURY is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Sittingborne.

 

The church, which is both large and losty, is very antient, and consists of a middle and two narrow side isles, a high chancel, and two cross ones. The pillars and arches in it are more elegant than is usual in country churches, and the former, on the north side, are of Bethersden marble, rude and antient. It has a square tower at the west end, in which hangs a peal of six bells, and is dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen. In the great chancel lie buried several of the Hoopers, Knights, Bentleys, and Jumpers. The south chancel belongs to the Cowsted estate, in which lie buried the Pettits and Osbornes, and in the north chancel belonging to the Nettlested estate, Dr. Thorpe and his wife, formerly owners of it.

 

The church of Stockbury was part of the antient possessions of the priory of Leeds, to which it was given, soon after its foundation, by William Fitzhelt, the patron of it.

 

Hubert Walter, archbishop of Canterbury, in the reign of king Richard I. confirmed this gift, and appropriated this church to the use of the priory, reserving, nevertheless, from the perpetual vicar of it, the annual pension of one marc, to be paid by him to the prior and convent. Edmund, archbishop of Canterbury, confirmed the above in 1237, anno 22 Henry III. and granted to them the further sum of ten marcs from it, to be paid half yearly by the vicar of it, (fn. 4) which grants were further confirmed by the succeeding archbishops.

 

The church and vicarage of Stockbury remained part of the possessions of the above-mentioned priory till the dissolution of it, in the reign of Henry VIII. when it came, with the rest of the revenue of that house, into the king's hands.

 

After which, the king, by his donation-charter, in his 33d year, settled both the parsonage and advowson of the vicarage of the church of Stockbury on his newerected dean and chapter of Rochester, with whom they now remain.

 

¶On the abolition of deans and chapters, after the death of king Charles I. this parsonage was surveyed, by order of the state, in 1649, when it was returned, that the rectory or parsonage of Stockbury, late belonging to the dean and chapter of Rochester, consisted of a fair dwelling-house, dove house, and other necessary buildings, yards, &c. and the tithes belonging to it, all which were valued at eighty pounds per annum, and the glebe-lands, containing one hundred and forty-four acres, were worth, with the above, 132l. 10s. all which premises were let by the dean and chapter, anno 16 king Charles I. to John Hooper, for twenty-one years, at the yearly rent of 14l. 5s. 4d. That the lesse was bound to repair the chancel; and that the vicarage was excepted, worth fifty pounds per annum. (fn. 5)

 

The presentation to the vicarage of this church is reserved by the dean and chapter, in their own hands; (fn. 6) but the parsonage continued to be leased out to the family of Hooper, who resided there; several of whom lie buried in this church, particularly John, son of James Hooper, gent. of Halberton, in Devonshire, which John was receiver of the fines, under king Philip and queen Mary, for the Marches, of Wales, and died in 1548. He married Frances, daughter of Sir Thomas Roberts, of Glassenbury. At length, by marriage of one of the daughters of Walter Hooper, esq. it passed to William Hugessen, esq. eldest son of John Hugessen, esq. of Stodmarsh. He resided here till his father's death, when he removed to Stodmarsh, and he is the present lessee of this parsonage, under the dean and chapter.

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-kent/vol5/pp572-585

I've walked many miles

Faced many trials

Keep my faith

like a blind child's smile

 

I will not be...

Consumed

 

THUMP... THUMP... THUMP...

 

I feel the light

Though it's not in sight

She often cries,

 

"Where are you those sleepless knights?"

 

Somewhere beyond the pines

A woman whose leapt

through sour times

Smoking cigarettes

under the killing moon

and she looks just like you...

 

... Thump ...Thump ...Thump

 

I fight and fight

I fight to be right by your side

I bear this armor to be your knight

but since enemies tend to be

next to me with an axe to grind

I guess I might have a type

It's true and I always fall

for what you do...

 

...thump ...thu...thump...

 

Wandering stars

pondering who we are

Just light dying in the dark

to the riffs of Ventures guitars

 

I will not be...

 

...consumed...

 

Heavy the crown

I the King of Sorrow

Shall I repay time borrowed

with forfeiture of tomorrow?

 

Structures crumble

under desires most carnal

My soul follows suit

and the hole left by you

echoes a heart once troubled

In your lies I see the truth...

 

Wanderlust until dust

No honor when on a rush

Love don't haunt her much

Just something to fill her cup

Just give me something

to numb my husk

I have nothing else left to lose

but you...

 

THUM...THA..THUM...THUM...

 

Conned souls of the consoled

A warmth thought forever close

but she rather be a loan...

 

So where are you those sleepless knights?

 

Can't sleep when your dead inside

It's true... But so are you...

 

Copyright© Richard Ryals ® * No part of this poem or image may be used or reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any way or form or by any means electronic, mechanical, recording, or otherwise without the written permission of the author/photographer.*

I am currently trying to revisit all the churches photographed in the first few years of the Kent Churches Project, which means seeing some great and humble buildings, and sometimes surprise that some did not make more of an impact on me first time time round.

 

Why sits in the shadow of the downs, Wye down being nearest, of course, and also beside the Stour. The chuch sits beside the old main road and beside the old college, with the village spread to its south side.

 

All I remembered from my first time was the glass outer porch door, but my overwhelming feeling this time was of space and light in the mighty high nave.

 

-------------------------------------------

 

A very strange church, the result of the collapse of a tall central tower in 1686. The nave of the medieval church survives almost intact, while the chancel has been constructed from the remains of the central crossing of the thirteenth-century church, and a new tower built. The nave is tall and light, and contrasts well with the short narrow apsed chancel that now contains mural tablets to the Sawbridge and Drax families who lived at Olantigh. The reredos is plain early eighteenth-century work and ties in nicely with the dark oak panelling. The choir stalls which stand in the nave were a thanksgiving memorial for the life of President Kennedy. The west window, which represents Christ in Majesty, is set into plain glass and was designed by Gerald Smith in the 1950s. It is an object lesson in how good glass of this period could be.

 

www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Wye

 

------------------------------------------

 

WYE

LIES the next parish eastward from Challock. It is spelt in Domesday, and other antient records, Wy.

 

¶THE PARISH lies in a healthy country, great part of it being in the fertile Ashford vale; the fine pasture down hills of Wye and Braborne bound the eastern side of it, as does another range of hills on the opposite side, the tops of which are skirted by the large extent of woodland, called King's and Challock woods, over which, for near two miles, this parish reaches westward almost to the church and village of Molash. It contains about two hundred and thirteen houses, and fourteen hundred inhabitants; the rents of it are about 4500l. per annum. The soil of it is various, the hills above mentioned, as well as the vale between in the northern part of it, are mostly chalk; the rest of it a red cludgy earth, much intermixed with slints, a wet unpleasant soil; the meadows near the river are very sertile and rich. The town of Wye, in which the fine tower of the church is a conspicuous object, stands in the vale on the river Stour, which directs its course throught the parish in its way to Canterbury; over it here is a stone bridge of five arches, built in 1630, in the room of the former wooden one, at the charge of the county; the river is plentifully stowed hereabouts with pikes. The town, which stands low and damp, and from that and its soil an unpleasant situation, is a neat well-built town, consisting of two parallel and two cross streets, the whole unpaved. There is a large green in it, built round, on one side of which is the church and college close to it, and on the other a house, which was once the gaol to the manor-court, but long since disused.

 

There is a tradition, that the town once stood in the valley, which lies between Wye-down and Crundal, where the hamlet of Pett-street now is, about which there are still remaining several deep disused wells, and this place is still called Town borough, where as that in which Wye town stands is called Bewbridge-borough. About half a mile westward from the town is a pleasant seat, called Spring-grove, built by Thomas Brett, esq. of this parish, in 1674, who afterwards resided in it.

 

The south part of the parish below the town, is full of small inclosures, and the soil deeper. In it is a hamlet, called Withersden, formerly accounted a manor, in which there is a well, which was once famous, being called St. Eustace's well, taking its name from Eustachius, abbot of Flai, who is mentioned by Matt. Paris, p. 169, an. 1200, to have been a man of learning and sanctity, and to have come and preached at Wye, and to have blessed a fountain there, so that afterwards its waters were endowed, by such miraculous power, that by it all diseases were cured. Hence the parish extends itself further southward by a narrow slip, between Brook and Braborne, to Nacolt-wood, once reputed likewise a manor, and the tile-kiln of that name.

 

Almost one half of the parish now belongs to Mr. Sawbridge, his estate here being greatly increased by his father's late purchase of the estates of Bond Hopkins, esq. which consist of Wye-court, Harvile, Coldharbour, Wye-downs, and Nacolt, in this parish; they formerly, I conjecture, belonged to Wye college, and afterwards to the Kempes; they were bought in chancery by John Hopkins. esq. commonly called from his rapacity, Vulture Hopkins, who died immensely rich in 1732, and devised his estates so as not to be inherited till after the second generation, then unborn; but the court of chancery set the will aside, and gave his estates to his heir-at-law, from whom they descended to the above-mentioned Bond Hopkins, esq. In the northern part of it stands the stately mansion of Ollantigh, close to the river, which is here beautifully formed by art to ornament it. Adjoining are the park-grounds, containing near six hundred acres, which extend almost as far as Wye town; and the eastern part of the ridge of hills called Wye-downs, the chain of which reaches to the sea-shore at Folkestone. On the summit of the hill, at the eastern extremity of this parish, is Fanscomb-beech, a tree visible to all the country round, to a great distance; near it was formerly a cottage, of the same name, now pulled down, and the lands laid into Mr. Sawbridge's park grounds. Also near it is Fannes wood, now a cottage, and belonging to him likewise. Both these were formerly esteemed manors of good account. The manor of Fannes, alias Fanscombe, formerly belonged to the master of the Savoy, now to St. Thomas's hospital, in Southwark, and that of Fannes wood, formerly the property of the Kempes, to Mr. Sawbridge.

 

The high road from Canterbury to Ashford leads along this parish, about half a mile distance westward from Ollantigh, on higher ground from whence there is a fine view over the vale beneath and the opposite downs, including the mansion and grounds of Ollantigh, and the town and church of Wye, which it leaves in its course at the same distance.

 

It is by some supposed that the Romans had a highway through this parish, which went on towards Lenham, and so to Aylesford; and the several remains of that nation dug up on Tremworth-down, in the adjoining parish of Crundal, on the side of it next to this parish, will serve to strengthen this conjecture. Wye had formerly a market on a Thursday, granted to the abbot of Battell, which was held in the time of king Henry VIII. It was held in Leland's time, who calls it a pratie market townelet; but it has been for some time disused. The two fairs formerly held here on St. Gregories day, March 23, and on All Souls day, Nov. 2, are now held on May 29 and Sept. 3, yearly, for Welch cattle, stock, &c.

 

There were formerly several families of good account resident in this town and parish, the Finch's, lived at Wye-court, descended from those of Sewards, in Linsted, a younger branch of the Finch's, of Eastwell; the Swans, removed hither from Lyd. Francis Swan, esq. resided here, his house being in the town of Wye, at the latter end of Henry VIII.'s reign. They bore for their arms, Azure, a chevron, ermine, between three swans, proper; the Twisdens, one of whom, Roger Twisden, gent. was of Wye, had a lease of the scite of the manor of Wye, and other premises here, from the abbot of Battel, anno 25 Henry VIII. and the Haules, who were antiently written De Aula five Haule, in Latin deeds, likewise resided here for several generations, till they removed to Maidstone in king James the 1st.'s reign, where George Haule, esq. of Maidstone, died in 1652. Elizabeth his daughter, and at length sole heir, married Sir Thomas Taylor, bart. of that parish. They bore for their arms, Or, on a saltier, five mulets of the field.

 

In this parish Major George Somner, brother to the antiquary, was killed in an engagement with the rebels, in 1648.

 

ON THE PLACE where the famous and decisive battle between king Harold and William, duke of Normandy, was fought in 1066, the Conqueror in the next year began to build a noble abbey, named from that event, Battell abbev; in Latin records, Abbatia de Bello; the royal founder endowing it with exemptions and privileges of a very extraordinary nature, and with many manors and good estates; among which was this Royal manor of Wye, with all its appendages, being of the demesnes of his crown, as the grant expresses it, with all liberties and royal customs, as well here as in Dengemarsh, which belonged to the court of Wye, (fn. 1) as freely as he himself held it, or as a king could grant it. Accordingly it is thus entered in the record of Domesday, under the title of land of the church of Battell, or De Labatailge, as there spelt.

 

¶The abbot of St. Martin, of the place of Battle, holds the manor which is called Wi, which in the time of king Edward the Confessor, and now, was and is taxed at seven sulings. The arable land is fifty-two carucates. In demesne there are nine carucates, and one hundred and fourteen villeins, with twenty-two borderers, having seventeen carucates. There is a church, and seven servants, and four mills of twenty-three shillings and eight pence, and one hundred and thirty three acres of meadow, and wood for the pannage of three hundred bogs. In the time of king Edward the Confessor it was worth no more than twenty pounds and one hundred shillings, and six shillings and eight pence; when be received it, one hundred and twenty-five pounds, and ten shilling of the twenty in ore; (fn. 2) now one hundred pounds by tale; and if the abbot bad had sac and soc, it would have been worth twenty pounds more.

 

Ralf de Curbespina holds one denne and one yoke of the land, of the sockmen of this manor, and pays by custom six pence. Adelulf two parts of one suling, and pays twelve pence; and Hugo de Montfort has two yoke, and pays three hundred eels and two shillings; and in the time of king Edward the Confessor, they paid both sac and soc.

 

Of the twenty-two hundreds, there belonged to this manor, sac and soc, and all forfeitures, which of right belonged to the king.

 

For such was the dignity of this manor, which then consisted of seven sulings, or hides of land, that, as the antient book of this abbey expressed it, with its own hundred, it had jurisdiction over twenty-two hundreds and an half, which belonged to its court.

 

WYE is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Bridge.

 

The church, which is dedicated to St. Gregory and St. Martin, stands at the north-west corner of the town of Wye, and was built by cardinal Kempe, when he founded the college of Wye in the reign of king Henry VI. being a handsome, large building, with three isles and as many chancels, and a high spire steeple in the middle, which stood on four lofty arches, supported by a like number of large pillars. The great chancel was made choir fashion, wainscotted, and seated round for the members of the new col lege. The north chancel was appointed for the burying-place of the Kempes, owners of Ollantigh; and in the south chancel the parishioners of the better sort were interred. According to tradition, it stood antiently on a little hill just at the entrance into the town from the river, and which is now called Boltshill, but was removed to this place, where it now stands, by the cardinal. In 1572, the steeple was burnt by lightning, and though it was soon afterwards rebuilt, under the care of Gregory Brett, then churchwarden, who was a great contributor to the expence of it; for which the parishioners granted to him and his heirs, a vault, in the middle isle, for their burial; yet in 1685 it fell, and beat down the greatest part of the middle chancel, almost all the two side ones, and the east end of the body of the church, by which all the monuments in the north chancel, of the Kempes, and Thornhills, of Ollantigh, were wholly destroyed, and the tombstone which lay over the cardinal's father and mother, broken to pieces, whose epitaph is preserved by Weever, p. 274. The fragments of several of the old tombstones lay for several years afterwards seattered about the church-yard, and some statues and parts of monuments lay at the lower end of the church; but they have since been removed and there are now none remaining. After this, the remaining part was inclosed with boards, at the east end, to make it fit for divine service, and the rest lay in ruins till the year 1701, when a brief was procured for the rebuilding of it, and within a year or two afterwards it was begun, the remainder of the old chancels was taken down, and only the present small chancel built up at the east end, in the room of that where the choir was, and a tower steeple on the south side, between the chancel and the body of the church, with battlements, and four pinnacles with gilt vanes on them. The present building is small, but neat. It consists, of three isles, the middle one having an upper story and range of windows. There is only one small chancel, new built, circular at the east end, which does not reach near so far as the old one, which extended several feet further, Mr. Chamberlain Godfrey's monument, in the church yard standing, as is said, where the altar formerly did. Towards building the steeple and chancel, the lady Joanna Thornhill, the prebendaries of Canterbury, and others, were contributors, and Richard Thornhill, esq. gave the pavement of the chancel. In the steeple are eight bells and a clock, which were completed in 1774. The only memorials of any time remaining, are three in the body of the church, viz. two for the Bretts, and one having the figures, in brass, of a woman between her two husbands, and underneath of several children, and at bottom an inscription, beginning John Andrew Justus, Thomas Palmer q; venustus, &c. In the chancel is a memorial for Mrs. Catherine Matchem, daughter of George Finch, gent. of this parish, obt. 1713; a monument over a vault, in which lie Agnes and Mary Johnton; the former died in 1763, the latter in 1767, they were descended from Sir Robert Moyle, of Buckwell; and a monument for lady Joanna Thornhill, daughter of Sir Bevill Granville, second wife of Richard Thornhill, esq. of Ollantigh, commander of a regiment of horse raised at his own charge, obt. 1708.

 

This church, appurtenant to the manor of Wye, was given, with it, to the abbey of Battel at its foundation by the Conqueror, and was appropriated to it before the year 1384, being the 8th year of king Richard II. In which state it continued till the reign of king Henry VI. when cardinal Kempe obtained the king's licence to purchase the advowson of the vicarage of the abbot of Battel, and settled it on his newfounded college here, as will be further mentioned hereafter; but the rectory appropriate of Wye remained part of the possessions of the abbey till its dissolution in the 30th year of king Henry VIII. when it came into the king's hands, where this rectory staid till king Edward VI. in his 5th year, granted it and the manor of the vicarage, together with the two tithebarns and the tithes themselves, all parcel of the late monastery of Battel, to Edward, lord Clinton and Saye, who reconveyed them back again to the king, within a month afterwards.

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-kent/vol7/pp340-368

A round towered church with a spire; somewhat unusual I imagine. Someone might like to correct me on that and I find its quite common.

 

I had seen shots of St George taken from the air by my Flickr friend, John Fielding. I decided to see if any of the churches he had snapped were near to my route to Cambridge, and found they were.

 

I did not think of going to Shimpling this day, but as this and Frenze are under the care of the Church Conservation Trust, an information board at the latter said I should go to the former if I enjoyed Frenze.

 

So I did.

 

Driving through Diss, trying to program the sat nav, easy as the main road through the town, under the railway bridge was a solid line of traffic, I only hoped that Shimpling would not be back the way I had just come.

 

The route took me through some of the narrow streets of the town centre, a place to go back to to explore I think, but my route took me out north through the modern houses then into the flat countryside of south Norfolk.

 

I arrived in Shimpling, a few houses and farms; where could the church be, and just as I was about to stop and annoy the lorry behind, I saw the information board at the start of the farm track leading to St George.

 

------------------------------------------

 

.

St George is a familiar sight to drivers between Ipswich and Norwich, off in the fields near Dickleburgh. A substantial, landmark church; and yet it is redundant. Coming from Suffolk, where the local Anglican Diocese goes out of its way to avoid redundancies if it can, Shimpling's redundancy seemed careless. This is not a tiny village, and if drawn into a group with Dickleburgh could surely have sustained a monthly service or so. Probably, if it arose nowadays, St George would not be declared redundant. From the point of view of the building, of course, it was both a blessing and a mercy, as the church is now in the capable, caring hands of the Churches Conservation Trust.

 

The setting of St George just to the south of its village is superb. A cart track leads up from a farm, difficult of access at the best of times, but suicide on this day when the snow still lay deep in the ruts, the mud sucking at our boots. If we had attempted to drive it then I guess the tractor would be getting to us about now. The keyholders both live about a mile off, but the walk was worth it.

 

St George is perhaps more typical of Suffolk than Norfolk, a rural church made opulent by the wealth of the later years of the 15th century. Then came the font, the benches, the roof, the surviving scattering of medieval angel glass. Otherwise, the feeling is of the much-maligned Victorians, who loved churches and wanted this one restored to its former glory. Geoffery Millard, rector through those times, has his memorial in the chancel, but all around it is the building that he would recognise instantly if he stepped into it today.

 

Amber light filled the space beneath the tower, and I was glad I was here, in this silent frozen space, this touchstone to the long generations. Some curiosities: under the benches at the west end, there is a trap door. Inside, some of the original medieval tiles have survived the Victorians; they merely built a wooden platform over them. Then, a wholly secular brass inscription of 1591 to Anthony le Grys is set in the mddle of the nave - but the inlay is the wrong size and shape, and so it must come originally from somewhere else. A small hole in the north wall of the sanctuary is surely too tiny to have been an aumbry. And yet, it is set back to take a door, and appears once to have had some sort of wooden tympanum set over it. Could it have been a squint from a shrine chapel? Or even from an anchorite's cell?

 

Incidentally, another curious thing: There is a Shimpling in Suffolk as well, and the churches of both are dedicated to St George, an otherwise unusual East Anglian dedication. The reason appears to be that the enthusiastic 18th century antiquarians, ruttling around in the Diocesan records at Norwich, accidentally applied the dedication of the Suffolk church to both, dedications having fallen out of use for two hundred years or more.

 

Simon Knott, March 2005

  

www.norfolkchurches.co.uk/shimpling/shimpling.htm

 

-----------------------------------------

 

SHIMPLING

¶Is bounded on the east by Dickleburgh, on the west by Burston, on the south by Thelton, and on the north by Gissing. It is a rectory appendant to the manor, and being discharged of first fruits and tenths, is capable of augmentation. The rectory hath a house and 16 acres of glebe: Norwich Domesday says, that Richard de Boyland was then patron, that the rector had a house and xv. acres of land; that the procurations were then vi.s. viii.d. and the synodals xxii.d.

 

Rectors.

 

1305, 6 kal. Dec. Robert de Boswyle, accolite, William de Schympling.

 

1328, 7 kal. Mar. Will. de Schymplyng, accolite. Roger, son of Will. de Shympling.

 

1338, 12 July, John de Cherchegate, priest to St. George's church at Shympling. Ditto.

 

1349, Robert Sampson, priest. Emma, late wife of Roger de Schymplyng.

 

1361, 13 Sept. Ric. de Halle, priest. Ditto.

 

1362, 21 Sept. Peter Scott. Ditto.

 

1386, 19 April, Tho. de Welles. Thomas de Glemesford.

 

1393, 28 March, Welles changed this with John Mulle for Mildeston rectory, in Sarum diocese. Roger de Ellingham and Joan Hardegrey.

 

1396, 29 March, Mulle exchanged with Will. Stone for Ludenham in Kent. Ditto.

 

1401, 29 Aug. John Drury, priest, who resigned Watton vicarage in exchange for this. Roger de Elyngham.

 

1408, 7 Aug. John Cok of Illington, priest.

 

1421, 8 Octob. Reginald Pepper of Berton Bendysch, priest, on the resignation of Cok. Ditto.

 

1421, 6 March, Tho. Young, on Pepper's resignation. William, son of Roger de Elyngham of Elyngham, near Bungey.

 

1422, 22 March, Rich. Senyngwell, on Young's resignation. Ditto.

 

1430, 20 Sept. Walter Skyde of Disse. Lapse.

 

1432, 23 Octob. Thomas Wright. Lapse.

 

1434, 14 Dec. John Grygby. William Elyngham of Elyngham by Bungey.

 

1437, 12 Octob. Richard de Schymplyng, on Grygby's resignation. William Elyngham of Elyngham by Bungey.

 

1449, 31 Jan. Robert Caade, resigned to John Beest, in exchange for Winterburn Basset rectory, in Wiltshire. Ditto.

 

1451, 21 April, Thomas Messinger, on Beest's death. Ditto.

 

1504, John Odiham.

 

1507, 4 Aug. James Galle. (fn. 1) Lapse.

 

1525, 19 Octob. Thomas Warde. Thomas Shardelowe, Esq.

 

1536, 26 March, John Lanman, (fn. 2) on Ward's death. John Aldham, lord of the moiety of Elyngham's manor here, by turns.

 

1563, 26 June, Thomas Oxford, alias Farmor, A. M. Stephen Shardelowe, Gent.

 

1572, 24 Nov. William Luffkyn, on Oxford's resignation. Stephen Shardelowe, and John Aldham, patrons.

 

1609, 1 Aug. Nicholas Colte. (fn. 3) John Sherdelowe.

 

1642, Jeremiah Gowen. (fn. 4) Adrian Mott of Braintree, and Margaret Carter of Stratford in Essex.

 

1649, Thomas Cole, (fn. 5) clerk, A. M. John and James Mott, Gent.

 

1684, 9 Dec. John Rand. John Buxton, Esq. united to Burston.

 

1706, 1 Jan. John Calver, on Rand's death. Robert Buxton, Esq. united to Gissing.

 

1729, The Rev. Mr. Thomas Buxton, the present rector, [1736,] united to Thorp-Parva.

 

The Church hath a steeple, round at bottom, and octangular at top, and four small bells; it is leaded, though the chancel is thatched, and the north porch tiled. It is dedicated to St. George, (fn. 6) whose effigies, with his shield, viz. arg. a plain cross gul. is to be seen in a south window of the chancel, and seems to be as old as the building, which in all appearance was in the beginning of the thirteenth century, (though the steeple is much older,) for then William de Shimplyng was lord and patron, whose arms still remain under this effigies, viz. arg. a chief gul. a fess between six de-lises sab.

 

Here was a Gild in honour of the same saint, (fn. 7) and a Chapel dedicated to St. Mary, which stood in Shimpling Hithe, of which there are no remains. This had some endowment, for Girrard the Prior, (fn. 8) and his Chapter at Norwich, with the Bishop's consent, granted to Richard the chaplain of Shimpling, 7 roods of meadow in Roreker in Shimpling, &c. in perpetual alms, paying yearly 5d. at the high altar in the cathedral, to which John Pierson of Gissing, and others, were witnesses, (fn. 9) so that this must be before 1201, for in that year Gerrard the Prior died; this was down before the general dissolution, for I meet with no grant of it at that time.

 

St. George and the dragon, and the arms of Shimpling, are carved on the font; the chancel is covered with large grave-stones, all disrobed of their brasses; several of them were laid over the rectors, as appear from the chalice and wafer upon them, that being the symbol of a priest; the rest that had arms, I take to be laid over the Shimplings and the Shardelows. The arms of

 

Shardelow are, arg. a chevron gul. between three croslets fitchee, az. Crest, a plume of feathers arg.

 

On a small stone towards the west end of the church:

 

Richard Lesingham, ob. 5° die. Octob. Anno Dni. 1705, Ætatis suæ - - - -

 

Here let him rest, Memory stile him dear, 'Till our Redeemer Shall in the clouds appear.

 

On a marble near the pulpit: arms of

 

Potter, sab. a fess between three mullets arg. Crest, an elephant's head erased arg. gutte de sang.

 

Here in expectation of a joyful resurrection, resteth the body of Cicill Potter, Gent. who dyed Jan. the 29th, 1693, aged 70 years.

 

In a window:

 

Gloria in Errelsis Deo.

 

Here are twelve penny loaves given to as many poor people, by the rector and church-wardens, on the first Sunday in every month, there being land tied for it.

 

In the Confessor's time Torbert held this manor of Stigand, it being then worth 20s. of whom the part in Gissing was also held by another freeman, and was then of 5s. value, but was risen to ten in the Conqueror's time, though Shimpling continued at the same value. This, as one manor, was given by the Conqueror to Roger Bygod, who gave it to Robert de Vais, (de Vallibus, or Vaus,) it being then a mile and a quarter long, and a mile broad. (fn. 10) The whole paid 5d. Geld. There was then a church and 10 acres glebe, valued at 12d. and several other manors extended hither, of which I shall afterwards treat in their proper places. The Vaises held it of Bygod's successors, till 1237, in which year Oliver de Vallibus (fn. 11) granted it to Richard de Rupella, (afterwards called Rokele,) settling it on him and his heirs by fine, (fn. 12) to be held of him by knight's service; he died in 1287, at which time he held it of John de Vallibus. This Richard granted it to be held of him and his heirs by Richard de Boyland, in trust for Ralph Carbonell, (fn. 13) who held it of Maud, wife of William de Roos, who was daughter and coheir of John de Vaux. This Ralph conveyed it to

 

Roger de Schymplyng, to be held by knight's service of Richard Rokeles's heirs; and in 1280, the said Roger (fn. 14) was lord, the manor being settled upon him, and Emma his wife, in tail; after their deaths it came to William de Schympling, (fn. 15) their son, who held it of Richard Rokell at half a fee, he of the Earl-Marshal, and he of the King in capite. This William married Margaret de Tacolveston, (fn. 16) on whom the manor was settled for life in 1303, it being then held of William de Roos and Maud his wife, and Petronell de Vaux, her sister. This William purchased a great part of the town of divers persons. He had a son named Roger, who presented in 1328, and held it till about 1345, when he was dead, and Emma his wife had it, at whose death it fell divisible between their three daughters: (fn. 17)

 

Isabel, married to John Kirtling, to whom this manor was allotted;

 

Joan, who had Moring-Thorp manor, and

 

Katerine, married to William de Ellyngham, who had Dalling manor in Flordon. Isabell had issue, Roger and Emma, who left none, so that this manor and advowson descended to Roger, son of William de Elyngham and Katerine his wife, daughter of Roger de Schymplyng, which said Roger de Elyngham held it in 1401, by half a fee, of John Copledick, Knt. who held it of the Lady Roos, she of Thomas Mowbray, and he in capite of the King. How it went from the Elynghams I do not know, but imagine it must be by female heiresses; for in 1521, Humphry Wyngfield had a moiety of it, and John Aldham had another part; he died in 1558, and was buried in this chancel, leaving his part to John his son, (fn. 18) who held it jointly with Bonaventure Shardelowe, in 1571; Mr. Aldham had a fourth part of the manor, and a third turn, and Mr. Shardelow three parts and two turns. The patronage and manor was in Mr. John Motte, who was buried October 7, 1640, and John Motte, and his brother James, presented in 1649. It looks as if the Mottes had Aldham's part, and after purchased Shardelow's of Mr. John Shardelowe, who held it till 1611, together with Dalling manor in Florden, which was held of Shimpling manor. He conveyed it to Edmund Skipwith, Esq. and Antony Barry, Gent. and they to Thomas Wales, and John Basely, Gent. who conveyed it to the Motts, from whom, I am apt to think, it came to the Proctors, for John Buxton of St. Margaret's in South Elmham had it, in right of his wife, who was kinswoman and heiress of Mr. Proctor, rector of Gissing; after this it came to Robert Buxton, Esq. who died and left it to Elizabeth his wife, who is since dead, and Elizabeth Buxton, their only daughter, a minor, is now [1736] lady and patroness.

 

The Leet belongs to the manor, and the fine is at the lord's will.

 

As to the other parts of this village, (fn. 19) they being parts of the manors of Titshall, Fersfield, and Brisingham, it is sufficient to observe, that they went with those manors, except that part held by Fulco, of which the register called Pinchbek, fo. 182, says that Fulco or Fulcher held of the Abbot in Simplingaham and Gissing, 70 acres, and 4 borderers, being infeoffed by Abbot Baldwin in the time of the Conqueror; this, about Edward the First's time, was in Sir John Shardelowe, a judge in that King's reign, in whose family it continued till 1630, when it was sold to Mr. Mott. The seat of the Shardelows is now called the Place, and is the estate of the Duke of Grafton; and (as I am informed) formerly belonged to Isaac Pennington, (fn. 20) alderman of London, one of those rebels that sat as judges at the King's trial, for which villainy he was knighted. He lived to the Restoration, when, according to his deserts, his estates were seized as forfeited to King Charles II. who gave this to the Duke of Grafton; upon the forfeiture, the copyhold on the different manors were also seized, which is the reason that the quitrents to Gissing, Titshall, &c. are so large, they being made so when the Lords regranted them.

 

¶I have seen an ancient deed made by John Camerarius, or Chambers, of Shimpling, to Richard de Kentwell, clerk, and Alice his wife, and their heirs, of 3 acres of land in this town, witnessed by Sir Gerard de Wachesam, Knt. and others, which is remarkable, for its never having any seal, and its being dated at Shimpling in the churchyard, on Sunday next before Pentecost, anno 1294. (fn. 21) This shews us that seals (as Lambard justly observes (fn. 22) ) were not in common use at this time; and, therefore, to make a conveyance the most solemn and publick that could be, the deed was read to the parish, after service, in the churchyard, that all might know it, and be witnesses, if occasion required. The Saxons used no seals, only signed the mark of a cross to their instruments, to which the scribe affixed their names, by which they had a double meaning; first, to denote their being Christians, and then, as such, to confirm it by the symbol of their faith. The first sealed charter we meet with is that of Edward the Confessor to Westminster abbey, which use he brought with him from Normandy, where he was brought up; and for that reason it was approved of by the Norman Conqueror; though sealing grew into common use by degrees, the King at first only using it, then some of the nobility, after that the nobles in general, who engraved on their seals their own effigies covered with their coat armour; after this, the gentlemen followed, and used the arms of their family for difference sake. But about the time of Edward III. seals became of general use, and they that had no coat armour, sealed with their own device, as flowers, birds, beasts, or whatever they chiefly delighted in, as a dog, a hare, &c.; and nothing was more common than an invention or rebus for their names, as a swan and a tun for Swanton, a hare for Hare, &c.; and because very few of the commonality could write, (all learning at that time being among the religious only,) the person's name was usually circumscribed on his seal, so that at once they set both their name and seal, which was so sacred a thing in those days, that one man never used another's seal, without its being particularly taken notice of in the instrument sealed, and for this reason, every one carried their seal about them, either on their rings, or on a roundel fastened sometimes to their purse, sometimes to their girdle; nay, oftentimes where a man's seal was not much known, he procured some one in publick office to affix theirs, for the greater confirmation: thus Hugh de Schalers, (or Scales,) a younger son of the Lord Scales's family, parson of Harlton in Cambridgeshire, upon his agreeing to pay the Prior of Bernewell 30s. for the two third parts of the tithe corn due to the said Prior out of several lands in his parish, because his seal was known to few, he procured the archdeacon's official to put his seal of office, for more ample confirmation: (fn. 23) and when this was not done, nothing was more common than for a publick notary to affix his mark, which being registered at their admission into their office, was of as publick a nature as any seal could be, and of as great sanction to any instrument, those officers being always sworn to the true execution of their office, and to affix no other mark, than that they had registered, to any instrument; so their testimony could be as well known by their mark, as by their name; for which reason they were called Publick Notaries, Nota in Latin signifying a mark, and Publick because their mark was publickly registered, and their office was to be publick to all that had any occasion for them to strengthen their evidence. There are few of these officers among us now, and such as we have, have so far varied from the original of their name, that they use no mark at all, only add N. P. for Notary Publick, at the end of their names. Thus also the use of seals is now laid aside, I mean the true use of them, as the distinguishing mark of one family from another, and of one branch from another; and was it enjomed by publick authority, that every one in office should, upon his admission, choose and appropriate to himself a particular seal, and register a copy of it publickly, and should never use any other but that alone, under a severe penalty, I am apt to think, in a short time we should see the good effects of it; (fn. 24) for a great number of those vagabonds that infest our country under pretence of certificates signed by proper magistrates, (whose hands are oftener counterfeit than real,) would be detected; for though it is easy for an ill-designing person to forge a handwriting, it is directly the contrary as to a seal; and though it is in the power of all to know the magistrates names, it is but very few of such sort of people that could know their seals; so that it would in a great measure (if not altogether) put a stop to that vile practice; and it would be easy for every magistrate to know the seals of all others, if they were entered properly, engraved, and published: and it might be of service, if all the office seals in England (or in those foreign parts that any way concern the realm) were engraved and published, for then it would be in every one's power to know whether the seals of office affixed to all passes, &c. were genuine or no; for it is well known that numbers travel this nation, under pretence of passes from our consuls and agents abroad, and sometimes even deceive careful magistrates with the pretended hands and seals of such, it being sometimes impossible for them to know the truth, which by this means would evidently appear. And thus much, and a great deal more, may be said to encourage the true and original use of that wise Conqueror's practice, who can scarce be said to put any thing into use but what he found was of advantage to his government.

 

This rectory is in Norfolk archdeaconry, and Redenhall deanery: it had 69 communicants in 1603, and hath now [1736] 23 houses, and about 130 inhabitants. The town is valued at 300l. per annum. (fn. 25) Here are 3 acres of town land, one piece is a small pightle abutting on the land of Robert Leman, Esq. another piece is called Susan's pightle, lying in Gissing, and was given by a woman of this name, to repair the church porch, (as I am informed,) the other piece lies in Diss Heywode, and pays an annual rent of 5s.

 

The Commons are Kett's Fen, which contains about 4 acres; Pound Green, 1 acre; Hall Green, 4 acres; the Bottom, 6 acres; and the Lower Green, 6 acres.

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/topographical-hist-norfolk/vol1...

Latvian progressive melodic metalcore band from Riga.

 

Follow them on Facebook: www.facebook.com/Eihshia

Listen them on Bandcamp: eihshiaofficial.bandcamp.com/album/forfeiture-of-design

Watch them on YouTube: www.youtube.com/user/EIHSHIA

 

Riga, Latvia

U.S. Marshals hold a live auction in Sparta, Tennessee, Saturday, Aug. 26, 2017, to sell tractors, trucks, trailers, farm equipment and tools in the liquidation of Gentry Tractor Supply. The sale follows the guilty plea of Jeffery Gentry on Aug. 10 in a $43 million investment scheme in U.S. District Court in Nashville.

 

Photo by Deputy U.S. Marshal Danny Shelton / U.S. Marshals

I am currently trying to revisit all the churches photographed in the first few years of the Kent Churches Project, which means seeing some great and humble buildings, and sometimes surprise that some did not make more of an impact on me first time time round.

 

Why sits in the shadow of the downs, Wye down being nearest, of course, and also beside the Stour. The chuch sits beside the old main road and beside the old college, with the village spread to its south side.

 

All I remembered from my first time was the glass outer porch door, but my overwhelming feeling this time was of space and light in the mighty high nave.

 

-------------------------------------------

 

A very strange church, the result of the collapse of a tall central tower in 1686. The nave of the medieval church survives almost intact, while the chancel has been constructed from the remains of the central crossing of the thirteenth-century church, and a new tower built. The nave is tall and light, and contrasts well with the short narrow apsed chancel that now contains mural tablets to the Sawbridge and Drax families who lived at Olantigh. The reredos is plain early eighteenth-century work and ties in nicely with the dark oak panelling. The choir stalls which stand in the nave were a thanksgiving memorial for the life of President Kennedy. The west window, which represents Christ in Majesty, is set into plain glass and was designed by Gerald Smith in the 1950s. It is an object lesson in how good glass of this period could be.

 

www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Wye

 

------------------------------------------

 

WYE

LIES the next parish eastward from Challock. It is spelt in Domesday, and other antient records, Wy.

 

¶THE PARISH lies in a healthy country, great part of it being in the fertile Ashford vale; the fine pasture down hills of Wye and Braborne bound the eastern side of it, as does another range of hills on the opposite side, the tops of which are skirted by the large extent of woodland, called King's and Challock woods, over which, for near two miles, this parish reaches westward almost to the church and village of Molash. It contains about two hundred and thirteen houses, and fourteen hundred inhabitants; the rents of it are about 4500l. per annum. The soil of it is various, the hills above mentioned, as well as the vale between in the northern part of it, are mostly chalk; the rest of it a red cludgy earth, much intermixed with slints, a wet unpleasant soil; the meadows near the river are very sertile and rich. The town of Wye, in which the fine tower of the church is a conspicuous object, stands in the vale on the river Stour, which directs its course throught the parish in its way to Canterbury; over it here is a stone bridge of five arches, built in 1630, in the room of the former wooden one, at the charge of the county; the river is plentifully stowed hereabouts with pikes. The town, which stands low and damp, and from that and its soil an unpleasant situation, is a neat well-built town, consisting of two parallel and two cross streets, the whole unpaved. There is a large green in it, built round, on one side of which is the church and college close to it, and on the other a house, which was once the gaol to the manor-court, but long since disused.

 

There is a tradition, that the town once stood in the valley, which lies between Wye-down and Crundal, where the hamlet of Pett-street now is, about which there are still remaining several deep disused wells, and this place is still called Town borough, where as that in which Wye town stands is called Bewbridge-borough. About half a mile westward from the town is a pleasant seat, called Spring-grove, built by Thomas Brett, esq. of this parish, in 1674, who afterwards resided in it.

 

The south part of the parish below the town, is full of small inclosures, and the soil deeper. In it is a hamlet, called Withersden, formerly accounted a manor, in which there is a well, which was once famous, being called St. Eustace's well, taking its name from Eustachius, abbot of Flai, who is mentioned by Matt. Paris, p. 169, an. 1200, to have been a man of learning and sanctity, and to have come and preached at Wye, and to have blessed a fountain there, so that afterwards its waters were endowed, by such miraculous power, that by it all diseases were cured. Hence the parish extends itself further southward by a narrow slip, between Brook and Braborne, to Nacolt-wood, once reputed likewise a manor, and the tile-kiln of that name.

 

Almost one half of the parish now belongs to Mr. Sawbridge, his estate here being greatly increased by his father's late purchase of the estates of Bond Hopkins, esq. which consist of Wye-court, Harvile, Coldharbour, Wye-downs, and Nacolt, in this parish; they formerly, I conjecture, belonged to Wye college, and afterwards to the Kempes; they were bought in chancery by John Hopkins. esq. commonly called from his rapacity, Vulture Hopkins, who died immensely rich in 1732, and devised his estates so as not to be inherited till after the second generation, then unborn; but the court of chancery set the will aside, and gave his estates to his heir-at-law, from whom they descended to the above-mentioned Bond Hopkins, esq. In the northern part of it stands the stately mansion of Ollantigh, close to the river, which is here beautifully formed by art to ornament it. Adjoining are the park-grounds, containing near six hundred acres, which extend almost as far as Wye town; and the eastern part of the ridge of hills called Wye-downs, the chain of which reaches to the sea-shore at Folkestone. On the summit of the hill, at the eastern extremity of this parish, is Fanscomb-beech, a tree visible to all the country round, to a great distance; near it was formerly a cottage, of the same name, now pulled down, and the lands laid into Mr. Sawbridge's park grounds. Also near it is Fannes wood, now a cottage, and belonging to him likewise. Both these were formerly esteemed manors of good account. The manor of Fannes, alias Fanscombe, formerly belonged to the master of the Savoy, now to St. Thomas's hospital, in Southwark, and that of Fannes wood, formerly the property of the Kempes, to Mr. Sawbridge.

 

The high road from Canterbury to Ashford leads along this parish, about half a mile distance westward from Ollantigh, on higher ground from whence there is a fine view over the vale beneath and the opposite downs, including the mansion and grounds of Ollantigh, and the town and church of Wye, which it leaves in its course at the same distance.

 

It is by some supposed that the Romans had a highway through this parish, which went on towards Lenham, and so to Aylesford; and the several remains of that nation dug up on Tremworth-down, in the adjoining parish of Crundal, on the side of it next to this parish, will serve to strengthen this conjecture. Wye had formerly a market on a Thursday, granted to the abbot of Battell, which was held in the time of king Henry VIII. It was held in Leland's time, who calls it a pratie market townelet; but it has been for some time disused. The two fairs formerly held here on St. Gregories day, March 23, and on All Souls day, Nov. 2, are now held on May 29 and Sept. 3, yearly, for Welch cattle, stock, &c.

 

There were formerly several families of good account resident in this town and parish, the Finch's, lived at Wye-court, descended from those of Sewards, in Linsted, a younger branch of the Finch's, of Eastwell; the Swans, removed hither from Lyd. Francis Swan, esq. resided here, his house being in the town of Wye, at the latter end of Henry VIII.'s reign. They bore for their arms, Azure, a chevron, ermine, between three swans, proper; the Twisdens, one of whom, Roger Twisden, gent. was of Wye, had a lease of the scite of the manor of Wye, and other premises here, from the abbot of Battel, anno 25 Henry VIII. and the Haules, who were antiently written De Aula five Haule, in Latin deeds, likewise resided here for several generations, till they removed to Maidstone in king James the 1st.'s reign, where George Haule, esq. of Maidstone, died in 1652. Elizabeth his daughter, and at length sole heir, married Sir Thomas Taylor, bart. of that parish. They bore for their arms, Or, on a saltier, five mulets of the field.

 

In this parish Major George Somner, brother to the antiquary, was killed in an engagement with the rebels, in 1648.

 

ON THE PLACE where the famous and decisive battle between king Harold and William, duke of Normandy, was fought in 1066, the Conqueror in the next year began to build a noble abbey, named from that event, Battell abbev; in Latin records, Abbatia de Bello; the royal founder endowing it with exemptions and privileges of a very extraordinary nature, and with many manors and good estates; among which was this Royal manor of Wye, with all its appendages, being of the demesnes of his crown, as the grant expresses it, with all liberties and royal customs, as well here as in Dengemarsh, which belonged to the court of Wye, (fn. 1) as freely as he himself held it, or as a king could grant it. Accordingly it is thus entered in the record of Domesday, under the title of land of the church of Battell, or De Labatailge, as there spelt.

 

¶The abbot of St. Martin, of the place of Battle, holds the manor which is called Wi, which in the time of king Edward the Confessor, and now, was and is taxed at seven sulings. The arable land is fifty-two carucates. In demesne there are nine carucates, and one hundred and fourteen villeins, with twenty-two borderers, having seventeen carucates. There is a church, and seven servants, and four mills of twenty-three shillings and eight pence, and one hundred and thirty three acres of meadow, and wood for the pannage of three hundred bogs. In the time of king Edward the Confessor it was worth no more than twenty pounds and one hundred shillings, and six shillings and eight pence; when be received it, one hundred and twenty-five pounds, and ten shilling of the twenty in ore; (fn. 2) now one hundred pounds by tale; and if the abbot bad had sac and soc, it would have been worth twenty pounds more.

 

Ralf de Curbespina holds one denne and one yoke of the land, of the sockmen of this manor, and pays by custom six pence. Adelulf two parts of one suling, and pays twelve pence; and Hugo de Montfort has two yoke, and pays three hundred eels and two shillings; and in the time of king Edward the Confessor, they paid both sac and soc.

 

Of the twenty-two hundreds, there belonged to this manor, sac and soc, and all forfeitures, which of right belonged to the king.

 

For such was the dignity of this manor, which then consisted of seven sulings, or hides of land, that, as the antient book of this abbey expressed it, with its own hundred, it had jurisdiction over twenty-two hundreds and an half, which belonged to its court.

 

WYE is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Bridge.

 

The church, which is dedicated to St. Gregory and St. Martin, stands at the north-west corner of the town of Wye, and was built by cardinal Kempe, when he founded the college of Wye in the reign of king Henry VI. being a handsome, large building, with three isles and as many chancels, and a high spire steeple in the middle, which stood on four lofty arches, supported by a like number of large pillars. The great chancel was made choir fashion, wainscotted, and seated round for the members of the new col lege. The north chancel was appointed for the burying-place of the Kempes, owners of Ollantigh; and in the south chancel the parishioners of the better sort were interred. According to tradition, it stood antiently on a little hill just at the entrance into the town from the river, and which is now called Boltshill, but was removed to this place, where it now stands, by the cardinal. In 1572, the steeple was burnt by lightning, and though it was soon afterwards rebuilt, under the care of Gregory Brett, then churchwarden, who was a great contributor to the expence of it; for which the parishioners granted to him and his heirs, a vault, in the middle isle, for their burial; yet in 1685 it fell, and beat down the greatest part of the middle chancel, almost all the two side ones, and the east end of the body of the church, by which all the monuments in the north chancel, of the Kempes, and Thornhills, of Ollantigh, were wholly destroyed, and the tombstone which lay over the cardinal's father and mother, broken to pieces, whose epitaph is preserved by Weever, p. 274. The fragments of several of the old tombstones lay for several years afterwards seattered about the church-yard, and some statues and parts of monuments lay at the lower end of the church; but they have since been removed and there are now none remaining. After this, the remaining part was inclosed with boards, at the east end, to make it fit for divine service, and the rest lay in ruins till the year 1701, when a brief was procured for the rebuilding of it, and within a year or two afterwards it was begun, the remainder of the old chancels was taken down, and only the present small chancel built up at the east end, in the room of that where the choir was, and a tower steeple on the south side, between the chancel and the body of the church, with battlements, and four pinnacles with gilt vanes on them. The present building is small, but neat. It consists, of three isles, the middle one having an upper story and range of windows. There is only one small chancel, new built, circular at the east end, which does not reach near so far as the old one, which extended several feet further, Mr. Chamberlain Godfrey's monument, in the church yard standing, as is said, where the altar formerly did. Towards building the steeple and chancel, the lady Joanna Thornhill, the prebendaries of Canterbury, and others, were contributors, and Richard Thornhill, esq. gave the pavement of the chancel. In the steeple are eight bells and a clock, which were completed in 1774. The only memorials of any time remaining, are three in the body of the church, viz. two for the Bretts, and one having the figures, in brass, of a woman between her two husbands, and underneath of several children, and at bottom an inscription, beginning John Andrew Justus, Thomas Palmer q; venustus, &c. In the chancel is a memorial for Mrs. Catherine Matchem, daughter of George Finch, gent. of this parish, obt. 1713; a monument over a vault, in which lie Agnes and Mary Johnton; the former died in 1763, the latter in 1767, they were descended from Sir Robert Moyle, of Buckwell; and a monument for lady Joanna Thornhill, daughter of Sir Bevill Granville, second wife of Richard Thornhill, esq. of Ollantigh, commander of a regiment of horse raised at his own charge, obt. 1708.

 

This church, appurtenant to the manor of Wye, was given, with it, to the abbey of Battel at its foundation by the Conqueror, and was appropriated to it before the year 1384, being the 8th year of king Richard II. In which state it continued till the reign of king Henry VI. when cardinal Kempe obtained the king's licence to purchase the advowson of the vicarage of the abbot of Battel, and settled it on his newfounded college here, as will be further mentioned hereafter; but the rectory appropriate of Wye remained part of the possessions of the abbey till its dissolution in the 30th year of king Henry VIII. when it came into the king's hands, where this rectory staid till king Edward VI. in his 5th year, granted it and the manor of the vicarage, together with the two tithebarns and the tithes themselves, all parcel of the late monastery of Battel, to Edward, lord Clinton and Saye, who reconveyed them back again to the king, within a month afterwards.

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-kent/vol7/pp340-368

I used to pass through Hales every time I drove to see Norwich play, from 1984 onwards. There is a backroad way to Haddiscoe then over the marshes to St Olaves and finally via Herringfleet and Somerleyton to Oulton and home.

 

Hales used to have a hospital, used I think for recuperation. Long since closed now and turned into housing, of course.

 

I used to drive through either full of anticipation of the afternoon's entertainment ahead, or go back home either so happy after seeing them win, or in despondency if we had lost. First time I drove to Carrow Road was in the spring of 1984 was to see City play Watford. City won 6-1, and John Deehan scored four. Not all afternoons were like that.

 

I can't remember the last time I drove to Norwich along the 146, to be honest. I know turning right towards Norwich used to be difficult at times, even more so now.

 

A few years back, I went looking for the church in Hales, and seeing signs pointing to another church ended up in Heckingham.

 

St Margaret is just off the main road, up a quiet lane, and yet the local louts find it in their hearts to come here to smash the windows in the chancel. I can't understand it, and after the visit here I was filled with a mix of anger and sadness. In Kent, Elmstone is a remote church, and yet the local youth there find time to smash the windows there too.

 

Inside St Margaret there are a fine selection of wall paintings and Norman arches and fittings, topped off with a thatched roof too.

 

I tried to get a good shot from distance, but the small churchyard made this difficult, hence the leaning tower in one of the shots.

 

------------------------------------------

 

Comparing Suffolk and Norfolk, as I inevitably must, I am afraid that the southern county rarely comes off best, and descriptions of Norfolk churches lend themselves to superlatives. Take Norman remains, for example - Suffolk has some, if you look for them. It has some nice doorways, at Sapiston and Westhall for example, and a Victorian rebuilding of what may or may not have been a Norman apse at Wissington. But Norfolk has more than seventy fine Norman doorways, and the best are all within a few miles of each other to the east and south-east of Norwich. Best of all are Wroxham and Heckingham, but the most complete Norman church in the county, indeed in all East Anglia, is here at Hales, two miles south of Heckingham, and like that church in the care of the Churches Conservation Trust.

St Margaret is extraordinary because so much of its original Norman fabric survives. Indeed, apart from some 13th century windows punched into the apse (a rare example of transitional vandalism!) you wouldn't know anything had happened here since the 1100s. The blank arcading on the apse is superb, and once went all the way around it. Most famous of all, the north doorway, its six orders so similar to the five at Heckingham that they must be by the same mason.

 

I had read several accounts of visits to this church, but all appeared to have been made in summer. Today, in deepest winter, I found it a stark, rather bleak place, overwhelmed by the noise from the nearby Norwich to Beccles road. Perhaps summer foliage absorbs the sound. Some churches, of course, are at their best in the bleak mid-winter, nearby Heckingham for example. But I longed for summer sunshine on those honeyed walls. A good excuse to go back in the summer.

 

Inside, the air was that of the previous day's sub-zero temperatures - it caught your breath as you went in. The interior has the prescribed simplicity of all CCT churches, a neatness and cleanness that is to be admired and imitated. Ahead is the great St Christopher, which is very faded, but the heads of the two figures are very characterful. The figure in the splay of a south wall window is probably St James with his staff. High above, two angels blowing trumpets are tucked into the eaves above where the rood loft once was.

 

There is a good view of the interior from the gallery, and you can also go into the base of the tower itself. The splays of the round windows still have the impress of the basketwork of 900 years ago - an astounding thought. Also ancient is the wooden shelf inside the aumbry on the north chancel wall.

 

The font is relatively modern, only 500 years old! The snooty little lions reminded me of their cousins at Salthouse, although the smiles here are nowhere near as friendly. There is a famous 17th century font cover associated with it - it has the silhouette of the Rector of the day on its base. It is now in safe keeping at Booton, where I had seen it a few months previously, but had omitted to photograph it. A good excuse to go back there, too.

 

Simon Knott, December 2004

 

www.norfolkchurches.co.uk/hales/hales.htm

 

------------------------------------------

 

HALES, or LODDEN-HALES,

Bigot's Manor.

 

By some accounted to be in Loddon-hundred. There were at the survey several lordships in this town: Roger Bigot, ancestor to the Earls of Nofolk, had a grant of one, which Alestan (a thane of King Harold) was deprived of; to this there belonged one carucate of land, and 40 acres with 9 bordarers, and 2 carucates in demean, one among the tenants, and 5 acres of meadow, paunage for 3 swine, one runcus, one cow, &c. and 10 sheep. There were also 13 freemen belonging to the lord's fold, and under his commendation with 40 acres of land, valued at 20s. but at the survey at 40s. this Alestan put himself under the commendation of Alwin de Tedford, in the reign of King William, and was seised of it at the time when the Conqueror gave it to Roger Bigot. But the hundred never saw any writ or livery, whereby it was granted to Alwin. All Hales was fifteen furlongs long, and 12 perches and six furlongs broad; and pays 8d. gelt. (fn. 1)

 

This lordship extended into Loddon, and was held by the Bigots Earls of Norfolk, and by the grant of Roger Bigot Earl of Norfolk, who died s. p. it came to King Edward I. and was given by King Edward II. to his brother, Thomas de Brotherton Earl of Norfolk, and so came to the Lord Segrave, the Mowbrays, and the Howards Dukes of Norfolk.

 

On the attainder of Thomas Duke of Norfolk, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, it was in the Crown, and King James I. on June 17, ao. 1, bestowed it on Thomas Lord Howard, of Walden, and Henry Howard, afterwards Earl of Northampton, from whom it passed to Thomas Howard Earl of Surry, who in the 21 of the said King, April 1, had license to alien it to Anthony Hobart, Esq. and his heirs; Anthony conveyed it in the same year to James Hobart, his son and heir, who, by deed, dated Sep. 12, ao. 12 of Charles I. sold it to Henry Humberston Esq. son of William Humberston, of Loddon by Joan, his wife, daughter of John Smith, of Lanham in Suffolk, which William was son of John Humberston of Loddon.

 

Henry had 2 wives: by Mary, daughter of Henry Yaxley of Beauthorp, Esq. his 2d wife, he had no issue; by his first wife Anne, daughter of Giles Bladwell, Esq. of Thorlow Magna, in Suffolk, was father of William Humberstone, Esq. who married Mildred, daughter of Charles Walgrave of Stanninghall in Norfolk, Esq. who conveyed this manor to Francis Gardiner, Esq. mayor of Norwich in 1685, (son of Francis Gardiner D. D. vicar of Kendal,) and burgess in parliament for that city, in 1695. Stephen Gardiner, Esq. his son, was recorder of Norwich, and died in 1727. Gardiner, bore, gules a chevron, between three griffins heads erased, or.

 

Ralph Lord Baynard was rewarded with a lordship, of which Toke, a freeman (of Stigand, the Archbishop of Canterbury) of French extraction, was deprived; consisting of 30 acres of land, 3 villains, with a carucate and 3 acres of meadow, &c. and 60 sheep; there were 12 freemen under his protection, and of his fold who held 41 acres of land, with a carucate and a half, and 3 acres of meadow: there were also 2 freemen under his protection only, with 18 acres, of land and half a carucate, also one freeman with 30 acres one, borderer and one carucate, and one acre of meadow; the whole valued at 17s. but at the survey at 30s. (fn. 2)

 

A family who took their name from this town, was early enfeoffed of it, and held it under the Lord Baynard. Roger de Hales and William, his son, were living in the reign of Henry II.—Walter de Hales, in the time of King John; and Sir Roger, son of Walter, in the 34 of Henry III. John, son of Sir Roger, in the 22 of Edward I. which Sir Roger, by deed, sans date, confirmed the exchange of lands (between 2 persons) that were held of his fee in Hales; which shows that it was the custom for lords of manors to confirm the purchases, before the statute of Quia Emplores, &c. and sealed with barry of 12, azure and or, on a canton, gules, a lion passant. Sir John de Hales was living, ao. 20 Edward III. and by Catherine, (after married to Roger de Wellesham,) was father of John de Hales, who died s. p. ao. 43 Edward III. and held this lordship of the barony of Fitz-Walter.

 

In the 17 of Richard II. William, son of Edmund de Redesham of Kirkby Caam, conveyed by fine, to Sir Robert de Willoughby, Sir Miles Stapleton, John, son of Sir John de Norwich, &c. the manor of HalesHall in Loddon, one messuage, 4 carucates of land, 24 acres of meadow, 2 of wood, 20 of marsh, and 100s. rent, in Hales, Loddon, Kirkeby, with the advowson of Hales-Hall chapel, purchased by John de Norwich in reversion; Sir George Felbrigg of Tottington, holding two parts of the manor and lands, in right (as I take it) of the widow of Edmund de Reedisham, then his wife, and Joan, widow of John de Hales, holding a 3d part in dower. (fn. 3)

 

Sir Simon Felbrigg, in the 12th of Henry IV. recovered the manor of Hales-Hall by writ of Novel Disseisin, against John Hotot, and held his first court on Tuesday next after the assumption of the blessed Virgin, and it was after settled on his two feoffees, Sir John Howard, and Sir John de Ingaldesthorp, &c.

 

In the 19th of Henry VI. Nicholas Waleys and John Pewk, were querents in a fine, and Henry Walpole, and Margaret his wife, deforciants of 10l. rent, per ann. in Loddon-Hales manor, conveyed to Pewk; and in the 30th of that King, Hugh Croke, vicar of Hale, was a trustee of Thomas Cleymonds, Esq. deceased, late lord.

 

¶After this, it was possessed by Sir James Hobart, attorney-general, and of the privy council to King Henry VII. of whom, and his ancestors, see in Plumstede Parva, in Blofield hundred. His benefactions and good works, testify his charity and generosity; he resided in his manor-house here, which he built for the most part, (and died here,) with the elegant parish church of the Holy Trinity, at Loddon; also a fair bridge over the Waveney river, between Norfolk and Suffolk, called St. Olaves, or Tooley's bridge, with a good causeway to it; (fn. 4) contributed to the rebuilding of the council chamber in the Guild-Hall of the city of Norwich, and to the noble arched stone roof of the cathedral church of Norwich. Sir Walter Hobart was his son and heir, and lord of this manor; sheriff of Norfolk and Suffolk, ao. 1, Henry VIII. in the 20 of that King, he settled this lordship, with that of Chatgrave, Lille ford's, Tilney in Norfolk, and others in Suffolk, as may be seen in Chatgrave, Loddon hundred, on Walter Hobart, Esq. his son and heir. A pedigree of the eldest branch of the family I have here annexed.

 

James Hobart, Esq. sold it in the 12 of Charles I. to Henry Humberstone, Esq. (as is mentioned in Bigot's manor above,) whose son William, is said to have conveyed part of it to Francis Gardiner, Esq. and part to the Lady Dionysia Williamson, relict of Sir Thomas Williamson, Baronet, of Markham Magna in Nottinghamshire, daughter and heir of William Hales, Esq. son of Richard Hales, Esq. who was lady of this manor of Hales-Hall, in 1666, and resided here; she gave 4000l. to the rebuilding the church of St. Dunstan in the East, of London; to the rebuilding of St. Paul's cathedral, 2001l. and was a benefactress to the rebuilding of the church of St. Mary Le Bow, in London, giving 2000l. and at her death, left Hales-Hall to John Hoskins, Esq. her nephew, (who was lord in 1687,) with the impropriated rectory of Loddon.

 

The abbot of St. Edmund of Bury, had a lordship which Frodo held of them at the survey; 9 men, 2 of them were socmen, and 7 more, belonged to the abbot's lordship, and were under his protection only, held 64 acres in King Edward's reign, when there were 2 borderers and 5 freemen, with 6 acres; this was valued with Loddon. (fn. 5)

 

Frodo, also, held of the abbot one acre, of which 2 freemen were deprived; valued at 4d. (fn. 6) Of this Frodo, &c. see in Loddon, which manor extended also into this town.

 

Godric, the King's steward, held one acre and a half, out of which a freeman was ejected: this was granted to Godric on the forfeiture of Ralph Earl of Norfolk, who had a moiety (as lord) of this freeman. (fn. 7)

 

The tenths were 2l. 10s. Deducted 10s. Temporalities of St. Olaves 8d. and of Langley abbey 24s.

 

The Church of Hales was a rectory, but granted in the 4th of Henry I. by Ralph de Chedgrave, and Emma his wife, to William, prior of St. Olaves, probably founder of that priory; and a vicar was appointed on its appropriation to that convent. It was dedicated to St. Margaret, and it appears by the register of Langley abbey, that the prior and convent of St. Olaves at Hering flete in Suffolk were rectors of Hale, and had the tithe of 235 acres of land in Hale parish belonging to Langley abbey, in exchange for 235 acres of land in Loddon and Heckingham, belonging to the priory of St. Olaves. (fn. 8)

 

In the reign of Edward I. the rectory was valued at 11 marks, and the vicarage at 40s. The vicar had then a manse with 30 acres of land. Peter-pence 18d. Carvage 12d. 0b.

 

Vicars.

 

In 1317, Adam de Blofield was instituted vicar, presented by the prior of St. Olaves, and nominated by the Bishop of Norwich.

 

1326, John de Carlethorp. Ditto.

 

1333, Roger de Petengraunt. Ditto.

 

1337, Adam de Bergh. Ditto.

 

1349, John Le Neve. Ditto.

 

1366, William Warren. Ditto.

 

1366, John Stalworth. Ditto.

 

1377, Peter de Wynch. Ditto.

 

1382, Roger Calf. Ditto.

 

1382, John Wandeford. Ditto.

 

1391, Simon Bangot. Ditto.

 

1391, John Bradock. Ditto.

 

1395, John Smith. Ditto.

 

1397, Henry Welden. Ditto.

 

1397, Thomas Coyte. Ditto.

 

1398, Richard Bytering. Ditto.

 

1403, Richard Bangoot. Ditto.

 

1403, John Ousnell Ditto.

 

1404, Walter Jakes. Ditto.

 

1413, William Norwich. Ditto.

 

1417, Thomas Smith. Ditto.

 

In 1458, Hugh Croke occurs vicar.

 

In 1503, I find it served by a stipendiary curate, for 5l. per ann. and he then returned 45 communicants, John Hill being the impropriator; and in 1742, the heirs of Mr. Peter Lawes.

 

¶Here was also a chapel at Hales-Hall, belonging to the manor of the family of De Hales, dedicated to St. Andrew: this, with the hall, stood in the parish of Loddon, and in 1287, it is said to stand in the manor of Wrantishagh, belonging to Sir Roger de Hales, in Loddon parish, and leave was then granted to him, that he might institute the chaplains of it, by the concession and grant of the abbot of Langley, rectors of the church of Loddon, and of John de Feryby, official to William, Bishop of Norwich, the said Sir Roger and his heirs granting to the chaplains all the obventions and oblations, with the small tithes of his court, and that the servant, of him and his heirs having their habitations in the parish of Loddon, shall pay to the mother church of Loddon, the oblations accustomed, and shall receive the sacraments there. (fn. 9) And the chaplains administering in the said chapel, were to pay yearly to the said mother church, in acknowledgment of subjection, all the oblations and obventions given on Easter-day, and St. Andrew's day, and two wax candles of a pound of wax, on Trinity Sunday, and to give security to the vicars of Loddon, for the time being, that they should not say any anniversaries, trentals, or any masses for any parishioners of Loddon.

 

In 1331, Sir John de Hales was patron, and in 1349; and John, son and heir of Sir John, in 1361.

 

Alexander de Hales, styled Doctor Irrefragabilis, who died in 1245, was born here. Hales, Halesworth, Halestead, Alesham and Aylesford, so called, as near to some river or water.

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/topographical-hist-norfolk/vol8...

U.S. Marshals hold a live auction in Sparta, Tennessee, Saturday, Aug. 26, 2017, to sell tractors, trucks, trailers, farm equipment and tools in the liquidation of Gentry Tractor Supply. The sale follows the guilty plea of Jeffery Gentry on Aug. 10 in a $43 million investment scheme in U.S. District Court in Nashville.

 

Photo by Deputy U.S. Marshal Danny Shelton / U.S. Marshals

ROMA ARCHEOLOGIA E RESTAURO ARCHITETTURA 2021: USA / ITALY - "A Trove of Artifacts Officials Call ‘Stolen’ Are Returned to Italy. The New York Times (15/12/2021) [= testo completo]; & NYC - Manhattan District Attorney’s Office & General Fabrizio Di Michele (15/21/2021). S.v., Il Magistrato Paolo Giorgio Ferri, “…Gli Americani…Ladri di Dèi!", VIDEO (2010) & NYT (20/06/2020). wp.me/pbMWvy-2ik

 

Foto: Il Magistrato Paolo Giorgio Ferri; in: NYT (20/06/2020).

www.flickr.com/photos/imperial_fora_of_rome/51748828202

  

1). USA / ITALY - "Manhattan D.A.’s Office Returns 200 Antiquities to Italy." Manhattan District Attorney’s Office & General Fabrizio Di Michele, NYC (15/21/2021).

 

Foto: Manhattan District Attorney’s Office, NYC (15/21/2021).

www.flickr.com/photos/imperial_fora_of_rome/51749905633

 

Almost 100 artifacts seized from Fordham Museum of Greek, Etruscan, and Roman Art.

 

Manhattan District Attorney Cy Vance, Jr. today announced the return of 200 antiquities valued at an estimated $10 million to the people of Italy during a repatriation ceremony attended by Italy Consul General Fabrizio Di Michele, Italian Carabinieri Tutela Patrimonio Culturale (“TPC”) Brigadier General Roberto Riccardi, and U.S. Homeland Security Investigations (“HSI”) Deputy Special Agent in Charge Erik Rosenblatt.

 

Fonte / source:

--- Manhattan District Attorney’s Office, NYC (15/21/2021).

www.manhattanda.org/manhattan-d-a-s-office-returns-200-an...

 

2). USA / ITALY - A Trove of Artifacts Officials Call ‘Stolen’ Are Returned to Italy. The Manhattan district attorney’s office is repatriating 200 objects it confiscated from major museums and collections. Many were tied to one dealer. The New York (15/12/2021).

 

Foto: The New York (15/12/2021).

www.flickr.com/photos/imperial_fora_of_rome/51750536265

 

From the Getty Museum in Los Angeles, they seized a 2,500-year-old wine cup and six other items that long predated Caesar. From Fordham University in the Bronx, they took roughly a hundred Greco-Roman artifacts valued at $2 million. More antiquities were seized from museums in San Antonio and Cleveland and galleries and homes in New York City and Long Island.

 

All told, the Manhattan district attorney’s office has quietly confiscated 160 objects tied to one man, Edoardo Almagià, a 70-year-old Rome-based antiquities dealer who is accused in court papers of a three-decade-long smuggling spree.

 

On Wednesday, 150 Almagià items, and 50 more linked to other suspected traffickers, were ceremoniously delivered to the Italian consulate in New York in what officials say is the largest single repatriation of relics from America to Italy. The value of the 200 returned items — which include painted jars and ornate vessels, marble busts and ceramic figurines — was put at $10 million.

 

“For years, prestigious museums and private collectors across the United States prominently displayed these Italian historical treasures even though their very presence in America constituted evidence of cultural heritage crimes,” the Manhattan district attorney, Cyrus R. Vance Jr., said in a statement.

 

Brig. Gen. Roberto Riccardi, of a cultural heritage unit of the Carabinieri, Italy’s national military police force, who flew in to take possession of the items, said that statutes of limitations had made it very difficult for Italy to prosecute Mr. Almagià. “What is most important,” he said, “is that these very important archaeological findings come back that are part of our culture identity.”

 

Investigators said that the individuals and institutions that held the items surrendered them willingly after being told of Mr. Almagià’s involvement. Most had purchased the items from intermediaries who had obtained them from Mr. Almagià, a Princeton graduate who lived in New York, and sold artworks there, from 1980 to 2006.

 

Speaking about the forfeitures of the objects, Matthew Bogdanos, the assistant district attorney who leads the office’s Antiquities Trafficking Unit, said: “To their credit, every person and organization we’ve dealt with so far regarding Almagià has agreed with us that we are correct — the items were stolen property.”

 

Mr. Almagià — who is under investigation for, among other things, illegally transporting hundreds of Italian artifacts into the United States and filing false customs documents — at once denied the allegations against him and discounted any import violations as insignificant in an animated telephone interview.

 

“There are thousands of items that travel around the world without papers, and they are only asking for papers now, and in the past they never had such requirements,” Mr. Almagià said, referring to the trade in Roman-era antiquities, which is severely regulated under Italian law and under longstanding agreements between Italy and the United States.

 

“Why are they doing this now, I wonder,” he said, adding: “So much money is being spent to persecute dealers when it can be used to repair Italian museums, where so many similar items are already at risk.”

 

Mr. Almagià has been investigated on and off by Italian and American authorities for decades. A chronology of his legal entanglements, dating back to at least 1996, was included in court papers released earlier this month related to the case of the billionaire Michael H. Steinhardt, who surrendered 180 stolen objects, 10 of which were sold to him by Mr. Almagià.

 

In 2000, Mr. Almagià was stopped at Kennedy Airport with two frescoes stolen from the Roman town of Herculaneum, the papers said. In 2006, the year he left the United States, federal agents raided his East 78th Street apartment. As a result, he relinquished six items there that were later declared illicit.

 

And in 2012, an Italian court acquitted him of directing the looting of ancient Roman and Etruscan tombs. The court, however, upheld the confiscation of all relics in his possession and said his dealings had contributed to “one of the greatest sacks of Italian cultural heritage based on the sheer amount of stolen goods” he handled.

 

Asked about his past brushes with the law, Mr. Almagià said: “I sold things from Italy, definitely yes. There are objects in U.S. museums that are undoubtedly stolen from excavations but when they are not objects of the greatest importance, I think they should remain there so they can be appreciated by American visitors.”

 

This case and other recent actions, like the Steinhardt seizures, show that Mr. Bogdanos’s unit is reaching far back in time and across state lines to confiscate objects. The seizures, Mr. Bogdanos said, are warranted by a state statute that lets prosecutors return stolen property to its “rightful owners” regardless of when or where they were stolen, and because New York was “the locus of conspiracy.”

 

All four of the museums involved in the case said that after reviewing the district attorney’s evidence, they decided to voluntarily give up their Almagià-related items.

 

Hardest hit was the Museum of Greek, Etruscan, and Roman Art at Fordham University, which surrendered close to a hundred of the 260 items donated in 2007 by a single alumnus, William D. Walsh, who died in 2013 and was unaware of their checkered provenance, investigators said. His collection comprised Greco-Roman items dating at least as far back as 700 B.C. and included world-class examples of portraiture and pottery.

 

His donation, and about 40 subsequent gifts, allowed the university to set up a free museum and a teaching and research institution devoted to studying ancient Mediterranean art. One of the seized objects, a 19-inch-high terra-cotta hydria, or water jar, depicting the deeds of Hercules, appeared on the cover of the museum’s 2012 catalog.

 

In a statement, Fordham called the seizures and repatriation an “appropriate action.”

 

“Since Fordham received the antiquities in 2007,” the statement added, “it has been transparent regarding the objects’ provenance or lack thereof, including the publication of a catalog in 2012, in part so that other researchers had full access to the relevant information about the collection. The University still has more than 200 antiquities in its collection, which will be reorganized to optimize their use in Fordham’s teaching museum.”

 

The Getty said in a statement: “Most of the objects being deaccessioned were accepted as gifts to the Getty 25 years ago. Whenever new information about the provenance of objects comes to the attention of Getty, we conduct a thorough review and return objects if warranted by those new findings.”

 

The San Antonio Museum of Art, which gave up five Greco-Roman jars and plates and a group of pottery fragments, said: “We are pleased that the District Attorney has formally announced that the objects will now be returned to the government of Italy. We will continue to work actively to remedy any legitimate ownership claims of which the museum becomes aware.” The Cleveland Museum of Art also said it accepted the validity of the seizure of three items purchased directly from Mr. Almagià in the mid-1990s.

 

Mr. Bogdanos said he expected further seizures and court proceedings as a result of the Almagià case. He said a potential extradition would be difficult, but added that “there are many other museums with Almagià items around the country.”

 

Fonte / source, foto:

--- The New York (15/12/2021).

www.nytimes.com/2021/12/15/arts/design/antiquities-repatr...

 

Foto: The New York (15/12/2021).

www.flickr.com/photos/imperial_fora_of_rome/51749656586

 

3). USA / ITALY - Il Magistrato Paolo Ferri, “…Gli Americani…Ladri di Dèi!", VIDEO (2010) & NYT (20/06/2020). wp.me/pbMWvy-qP

I am currently trying to revisit all the churches photographed in the first few years of the Kent Churches Project, which means seeing some great and humble buildings, and sometimes surprise that some did not make more of an impact on me first time time round.

 

Why sits in the shadow of the downs, Wye down being nearest, of course, and also beside the Stour. The chuch sits beside the old main road and beside the old college, with the village spread to its south side.

 

All I remembered from my first time was the glass outer porch door, but my overwhelming feeling this time was of space and light in the mighty high nave.

 

-------------------------------------------

 

A very strange church, the result of the collapse of a tall central tower in 1686. The nave of the medieval church survives almost intact, while the chancel has been constructed from the remains of the central crossing of the thirteenth-century church, and a new tower built. The nave is tall and light, and contrasts well with the short narrow apsed chancel that now contains mural tablets to the Sawbridge and Drax families who lived at Olantigh. The reredos is plain early eighteenth-century work and ties in nicely with the dark oak panelling. The choir stalls which stand in the nave were a thanksgiving memorial for the life of President Kennedy. The west window, which represents Christ in Majesty, is set into plain glass and was designed by Gerald Smith in the 1950s. It is an object lesson in how good glass of this period could be.

 

www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Wye

 

------------------------------------------

 

WYE

LIES the next parish eastward from Challock. It is spelt in Domesday, and other antient records, Wy.

 

¶THE PARISH lies in a healthy country, great part of it being in the fertile Ashford vale; the fine pasture down hills of Wye and Braborne bound the eastern side of it, as does another range of hills on the opposite side, the tops of which are skirted by the large extent of woodland, called King's and Challock woods, over which, for near two miles, this parish reaches westward almost to the church and village of Molash. It contains about two hundred and thirteen houses, and fourteen hundred inhabitants; the rents of it are about 4500l. per annum. The soil of it is various, the hills above mentioned, as well as the vale between in the northern part of it, are mostly chalk; the rest of it a red cludgy earth, much intermixed with slints, a wet unpleasant soil; the meadows near the river are very sertile and rich. The town of Wye, in which the fine tower of the church is a conspicuous object, stands in the vale on the river Stour, which directs its course throught the parish in its way to Canterbury; over it here is a stone bridge of five arches, built in 1630, in the room of the former wooden one, at the charge of the county; the river is plentifully stowed hereabouts with pikes. The town, which stands low and damp, and from that and its soil an unpleasant situation, is a neat well-built town, consisting of two parallel and two cross streets, the whole unpaved. There is a large green in it, built round, on one side of which is the church and college close to it, and on the other a house, which was once the gaol to the manor-court, but long since disused.

 

There is a tradition, that the town once stood in the valley, which lies between Wye-down and Crundal, where the hamlet of Pett-street now is, about which there are still remaining several deep disused wells, and this place is still called Town borough, where as that in which Wye town stands is called Bewbridge-borough. About half a mile westward from the town is a pleasant seat, called Spring-grove, built by Thomas Brett, esq. of this parish, in 1674, who afterwards resided in it.

 

The south part of the parish below the town, is full of small inclosures, and the soil deeper. In it is a hamlet, called Withersden, formerly accounted a manor, in which there is a well, which was once famous, being called St. Eustace's well, taking its name from Eustachius, abbot of Flai, who is mentioned by Matt. Paris, p. 169, an. 1200, to have been a man of learning and sanctity, and to have come and preached at Wye, and to have blessed a fountain there, so that afterwards its waters were endowed, by such miraculous power, that by it all diseases were cured. Hence the parish extends itself further southward by a narrow slip, between Brook and Braborne, to Nacolt-wood, once reputed likewise a manor, and the tile-kiln of that name.

 

Almost one half of the parish now belongs to Mr. Sawbridge, his estate here being greatly increased by his father's late purchase of the estates of Bond Hopkins, esq. which consist of Wye-court, Harvile, Coldharbour, Wye-downs, and Nacolt, in this parish; they formerly, I conjecture, belonged to Wye college, and afterwards to the Kempes; they were bought in chancery by John Hopkins. esq. commonly called from his rapacity, Vulture Hopkins, who died immensely rich in 1732, and devised his estates so as not to be inherited till after the second generation, then unborn; but the court of chancery set the will aside, and gave his estates to his heir-at-law, from whom they descended to the above-mentioned Bond Hopkins, esq. In the northern part of it stands the stately mansion of Ollantigh, close to the river, which is here beautifully formed by art to ornament it. Adjoining are the park-grounds, containing near six hundred acres, which extend almost as far as Wye town; and the eastern part of the ridge of hills called Wye-downs, the chain of which reaches to the sea-shore at Folkestone. On the summit of the hill, at the eastern extremity of this parish, is Fanscomb-beech, a tree visible to all the country round, to a great distance; near it was formerly a cottage, of the same name, now pulled down, and the lands laid into Mr. Sawbridge's park grounds. Also near it is Fannes wood, now a cottage, and belonging to him likewise. Both these were formerly esteemed manors of good account. The manor of Fannes, alias Fanscombe, formerly belonged to the master of the Savoy, now to St. Thomas's hospital, in Southwark, and that of Fannes wood, formerly the property of the Kempes, to Mr. Sawbridge.

 

The high road from Canterbury to Ashford leads along this parish, about half a mile distance westward from Ollantigh, on higher ground from whence there is a fine view over the vale beneath and the opposite downs, including the mansion and grounds of Ollantigh, and the town and church of Wye, which it leaves in its course at the same distance.

 

It is by some supposed that the Romans had a highway through this parish, which went on towards Lenham, and so to Aylesford; and the several remains of that nation dug up on Tremworth-down, in the adjoining parish of Crundal, on the side of it next to this parish, will serve to strengthen this conjecture. Wye had formerly a market on a Thursday, granted to the abbot of Battell, which was held in the time of king Henry VIII. It was held in Leland's time, who calls it a pratie market townelet; but it has been for some time disused. The two fairs formerly held here on St. Gregories day, March 23, and on All Souls day, Nov. 2, are now held on May 29 and Sept. 3, yearly, for Welch cattle, stock, &c.

 

There were formerly several families of good account resident in this town and parish, the Finch's, lived at Wye-court, descended from those of Sewards, in Linsted, a younger branch of the Finch's, of Eastwell; the Swans, removed hither from Lyd. Francis Swan, esq. resided here, his house being in the town of Wye, at the latter end of Henry VIII.'s reign. They bore for their arms, Azure, a chevron, ermine, between three swans, proper; the Twisdens, one of whom, Roger Twisden, gent. was of Wye, had a lease of the scite of the manor of Wye, and other premises here, from the abbot of Battel, anno 25 Henry VIII. and the Haules, who were antiently written De Aula five Haule, in Latin deeds, likewise resided here for several generations, till they removed to Maidstone in king James the 1st.'s reign, where George Haule, esq. of Maidstone, died in 1652. Elizabeth his daughter, and at length sole heir, married Sir Thomas Taylor, bart. of that parish. They bore for their arms, Or, on a saltier, five mulets of the field.

 

In this parish Major George Somner, brother to the antiquary, was killed in an engagement with the rebels, in 1648.

 

ON THE PLACE where the famous and decisive battle between king Harold and William, duke of Normandy, was fought in 1066, the Conqueror in the next year began to build a noble abbey, named from that event, Battell abbev; in Latin records, Abbatia de Bello; the royal founder endowing it with exemptions and privileges of a very extraordinary nature, and with many manors and good estates; among which was this Royal manor of Wye, with all its appendages, being of the demesnes of his crown, as the grant expresses it, with all liberties and royal customs, as well here as in Dengemarsh, which belonged to the court of Wye, (fn. 1) as freely as he himself held it, or as a king could grant it. Accordingly it is thus entered in the record of Domesday, under the title of land of the church of Battell, or De Labatailge, as there spelt.

 

¶The abbot of St. Martin, of the place of Battle, holds the manor which is called Wi, which in the time of king Edward the Confessor, and now, was and is taxed at seven sulings. The arable land is fifty-two carucates. In demesne there are nine carucates, and one hundred and fourteen villeins, with twenty-two borderers, having seventeen carucates. There is a church, and seven servants, and four mills of twenty-three shillings and eight pence, and one hundred and thirty three acres of meadow, and wood for the pannage of three hundred bogs. In the time of king Edward the Confessor it was worth no more than twenty pounds and one hundred shillings, and six shillings and eight pence; when be received it, one hundred and twenty-five pounds, and ten shilling of the twenty in ore; (fn. 2) now one hundred pounds by tale; and if the abbot bad had sac and soc, it would have been worth twenty pounds more.

 

Ralf de Curbespina holds one denne and one yoke of the land, of the sockmen of this manor, and pays by custom six pence. Adelulf two parts of one suling, and pays twelve pence; and Hugo de Montfort has two yoke, and pays three hundred eels and two shillings; and in the time of king Edward the Confessor, they paid both sac and soc.

 

Of the twenty-two hundreds, there belonged to this manor, sac and soc, and all forfeitures, which of right belonged to the king.

 

For such was the dignity of this manor, which then consisted of seven sulings, or hides of land, that, as the antient book of this abbey expressed it, with its own hundred, it had jurisdiction over twenty-two hundreds and an half, which belonged to its court.

 

WYE is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Bridge.

 

The church, which is dedicated to St. Gregory and St. Martin, stands at the north-west corner of the town of Wye, and was built by cardinal Kempe, when he founded the college of Wye in the reign of king Henry VI. being a handsome, large building, with three isles and as many chancels, and a high spire steeple in the middle, which stood on four lofty arches, supported by a like number of large pillars. The great chancel was made choir fashion, wainscotted, and seated round for the members of the new col lege. The north chancel was appointed for the burying-place of the Kempes, owners of Ollantigh; and in the south chancel the parishioners of the better sort were interred. According to tradition, it stood antiently on a little hill just at the entrance into the town from the river, and which is now called Boltshill, but was removed to this place, where it now stands, by the cardinal. In 1572, the steeple was burnt by lightning, and though it was soon afterwards rebuilt, under the care of Gregory Brett, then churchwarden, who was a great contributor to the expence of it; for which the parishioners granted to him and his heirs, a vault, in the middle isle, for their burial; yet in 1685 it fell, and beat down the greatest part of the middle chancel, almost all the two side ones, and the east end of the body of the church, by which all the monuments in the north chancel, of the Kempes, and Thornhills, of Ollantigh, were wholly destroyed, and the tombstone which lay over the cardinal's father and mother, broken to pieces, whose epitaph is preserved by Weever, p. 274. The fragments of several of the old tombstones lay for several years afterwards seattered about the church-yard, and some statues and parts of monuments lay at the lower end of the church; but they have since been removed and there are now none remaining. After this, the remaining part was inclosed with boards, at the east end, to make it fit for divine service, and the rest lay in ruins till the year 1701, when a brief was procured for the rebuilding of it, and within a year or two afterwards it was begun, the remainder of the old chancels was taken down, and only the present small chancel built up at the east end, in the room of that where the choir was, and a tower steeple on the south side, between the chancel and the body of the church, with battlements, and four pinnacles with gilt vanes on them. The present building is small, but neat. It consists, of three isles, the middle one having an upper story and range of windows. There is only one small chancel, new built, circular at the east end, which does not reach near so far as the old one, which extended several feet further, Mr. Chamberlain Godfrey's monument, in the church yard standing, as is said, where the altar formerly did. Towards building the steeple and chancel, the lady Joanna Thornhill, the prebendaries of Canterbury, and others, were contributors, and Richard Thornhill, esq. gave the pavement of the chancel. In the steeple are eight bells and a clock, which were completed in 1774. The only memorials of any time remaining, are three in the body of the church, viz. two for the Bretts, and one having the figures, in brass, of a woman between her two husbands, and underneath of several children, and at bottom an inscription, beginning John Andrew Justus, Thomas Palmer q; venustus, &c. In the chancel is a memorial for Mrs. Catherine Matchem, daughter of George Finch, gent. of this parish, obt. 1713; a monument over a vault, in which lie Agnes and Mary Johnton; the former died in 1763, the latter in 1767, they were descended from Sir Robert Moyle, of Buckwell; and a monument for lady Joanna Thornhill, daughter of Sir Bevill Granville, second wife of Richard Thornhill, esq. of Ollantigh, commander of a regiment of horse raised at his own charge, obt. 1708.

 

This church, appurtenant to the manor of Wye, was given, with it, to the abbey of Battel at its foundation by the Conqueror, and was appropriated to it before the year 1384, being the 8th year of king Richard II. In which state it continued till the reign of king Henry VI. when cardinal Kempe obtained the king's licence to purchase the advowson of the vicarage of the abbot of Battel, and settled it on his newfounded college here, as will be further mentioned hereafter; but the rectory appropriate of Wye remained part of the possessions of the abbey till its dissolution in the 30th year of king Henry VIII. when it came into the king's hands, where this rectory staid till king Edward VI. in his 5th year, granted it and the manor of the vicarage, together with the two tithebarns and the tithes themselves, all parcel of the late monastery of Battel, to Edward, lord Clinton and Saye, who reconveyed them back again to the king, within a month afterwards.

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-kent/vol7/pp340-368

I used to pass through Hales every time I drove to see Norwich play, from 1984 onwards. There is a backroad way to Haddiscoe then over the marshes to St Olaves and finally via Herringfleet and Somerleyton to Oulton and home.

 

Hales used to have a hospital, used I think for recuperation. Long since closed now and turned into housing, of course.

 

I used to drive through either full of anticipation of the afternoon's entertainment ahead, or go back home either so happy after seeing them win, or in despondency if we had lost. First time I drove to Carrow Road was in the spring of 1984 was to see City play Watford. City won 6-1, and John Deehan scored four. Not all afternoons were like that.

 

I can't remember the last time I drove to Norwich along the 146, to be honest. I know turning right towards Norwich used to be difficult at times, even more so now.

 

A few years back, I went looking for the church in Hales, and seeing signs pointing to another church ended up in Heckingham.

 

St Margaret is just off the main road, up a quiet lane, and yet the local louts find it in their hearts to come here to smash the windows in the chancel. I can't understand it, and after the visit here I was filled with a mix of anger and sadness. In Kent, Elmstone is a remote church, and yet the local youth there find time to smash the windows there too.

 

Inside St Margaret there are a fine selection of wall paintings and Norman arches and fittings, topped off with a thatched roof too.

 

I tried to get a good shot from distance, but the small churchyard made this difficult, hence the leaning tower in one of the shots.

 

------------------------------------------

 

Comparing Suffolk and Norfolk, as I inevitably must, I am afraid that the southern county rarely comes off best, and descriptions of Norfolk churches lend themselves to superlatives. Take Norman remains, for example - Suffolk has some, if you look for them. It has some nice doorways, at Sapiston and Westhall for example, and a Victorian rebuilding of what may or may not have been a Norman apse at Wissington. But Norfolk has more than seventy fine Norman doorways, and the best are all within a few miles of each other to the east and south-east of Norwich. Best of all are Wroxham and Heckingham, but the most complete Norman church in the county, indeed in all East Anglia, is here at Hales, two miles south of Heckingham, and like that church in the care of the Churches Conservation Trust.

St Margaret is extraordinary because so much of its original Norman fabric survives. Indeed, apart from some 13th century windows punched into the apse (a rare example of transitional vandalism!) you wouldn't know anything had happened here since the 1100s. The blank arcading on the apse is superb, and once went all the way around it. Most famous of all, the north doorway, its six orders so similar to the five at Heckingham that they must be by the same mason.

 

I had read several accounts of visits to this church, but all appeared to have been made in summer. Today, in deepest winter, I found it a stark, rather bleak place, overwhelmed by the noise from the nearby Norwich to Beccles road. Perhaps summer foliage absorbs the sound. Some churches, of course, are at their best in the bleak mid-winter, nearby Heckingham for example. But I longed for summer sunshine on those honeyed walls. A good excuse to go back in the summer.

 

Inside, the air was that of the previous day's sub-zero temperatures - it caught your breath as you went in. The interior has the prescribed simplicity of all CCT churches, a neatness and cleanness that is to be admired and imitated. Ahead is the great St Christopher, which is very faded, but the heads of the two figures are very characterful. The figure in the splay of a south wall window is probably St James with his staff. High above, two angels blowing trumpets are tucked into the eaves above where the rood loft once was.

 

There is a good view of the interior from the gallery, and you can also go into the base of the tower itself. The splays of the round windows still have the impress of the basketwork of 900 years ago - an astounding thought. Also ancient is the wooden shelf inside the aumbry on the north chancel wall.

 

The font is relatively modern, only 500 years old! The snooty little lions reminded me of their cousins at Salthouse, although the smiles here are nowhere near as friendly. There is a famous 17th century font cover associated with it - it has the silhouette of the Rector of the day on its base. It is now in safe keeping at Booton, where I had seen it a few months previously, but had omitted to photograph it. A good excuse to go back there, too.

 

Simon Knott, December 2004

 

www.norfolkchurches.co.uk/hales/hales.htm

 

------------------------------------------

 

HALES, or LODDEN-HALES,

Bigot's Manor.

 

By some accounted to be in Loddon-hundred. There were at the survey several lordships in this town: Roger Bigot, ancestor to the Earls of Nofolk, had a grant of one, which Alestan (a thane of King Harold) was deprived of; to this there belonged one carucate of land, and 40 acres with 9 bordarers, and 2 carucates in demean, one among the tenants, and 5 acres of meadow, paunage for 3 swine, one runcus, one cow, &c. and 10 sheep. There were also 13 freemen belonging to the lord's fold, and under his commendation with 40 acres of land, valued at 20s. but at the survey at 40s. this Alestan put himself under the commendation of Alwin de Tedford, in the reign of King William, and was seised of it at the time when the Conqueror gave it to Roger Bigot. But the hundred never saw any writ or livery, whereby it was granted to Alwin. All Hales was fifteen furlongs long, and 12 perches and six furlongs broad; and pays 8d. gelt. (fn. 1)

 

This lordship extended into Loddon, and was held by the Bigots Earls of Norfolk, and by the grant of Roger Bigot Earl of Norfolk, who died s. p. it came to King Edward I. and was given by King Edward II. to his brother, Thomas de Brotherton Earl of Norfolk, and so came to the Lord Segrave, the Mowbrays, and the Howards Dukes of Norfolk.

 

On the attainder of Thomas Duke of Norfolk, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, it was in the Crown, and King James I. on June 17, ao. 1, bestowed it on Thomas Lord Howard, of Walden, and Henry Howard, afterwards Earl of Northampton, from whom it passed to Thomas Howard Earl of Surry, who in the 21 of the said King, April 1, had license to alien it to Anthony Hobart, Esq. and his heirs; Anthony conveyed it in the same year to James Hobart, his son and heir, who, by deed, dated Sep. 12, ao. 12 of Charles I. sold it to Henry Humberston Esq. son of William Humberston, of Loddon by Joan, his wife, daughter of John Smith, of Lanham in Suffolk, which William was son of John Humberston of Loddon.

 

Henry had 2 wives: by Mary, daughter of Henry Yaxley of Beauthorp, Esq. his 2d wife, he had no issue; by his first wife Anne, daughter of Giles Bladwell, Esq. of Thorlow Magna, in Suffolk, was father of William Humberstone, Esq. who married Mildred, daughter of Charles Walgrave of Stanninghall in Norfolk, Esq. who conveyed this manor to Francis Gardiner, Esq. mayor of Norwich in 1685, (son of Francis Gardiner D. D. vicar of Kendal,) and burgess in parliament for that city, in 1695. Stephen Gardiner, Esq. his son, was recorder of Norwich, and died in 1727. Gardiner, bore, gules a chevron, between three griffins heads erased, or.

 

Ralph Lord Baynard was rewarded with a lordship, of which Toke, a freeman (of Stigand, the Archbishop of Canterbury) of French extraction, was deprived; consisting of 30 acres of land, 3 villains, with a carucate and 3 acres of meadow, &c. and 60 sheep; there were 12 freemen under his protection, and of his fold who held 41 acres of land, with a carucate and a half, and 3 acres of meadow: there were also 2 freemen under his protection only, with 18 acres, of land and half a carucate, also one freeman with 30 acres one, borderer and one carucate, and one acre of meadow; the whole valued at 17s. but at the survey at 30s. (fn. 2)

 

A family who took their name from this town, was early enfeoffed of it, and held it under the Lord Baynard. Roger de Hales and William, his son, were living in the reign of Henry II.—Walter de Hales, in the time of King John; and Sir Roger, son of Walter, in the 34 of Henry III. John, son of Sir Roger, in the 22 of Edward I. which Sir Roger, by deed, sans date, confirmed the exchange of lands (between 2 persons) that were held of his fee in Hales; which shows that it was the custom for lords of manors to confirm the purchases, before the statute of Quia Emplores, &c. and sealed with barry of 12, azure and or, on a canton, gules, a lion passant. Sir John de Hales was living, ao. 20 Edward III. and by Catherine, (after married to Roger de Wellesham,) was father of John de Hales, who died s. p. ao. 43 Edward III. and held this lordship of the barony of Fitz-Walter.

 

In the 17 of Richard II. William, son of Edmund de Redesham of Kirkby Caam, conveyed by fine, to Sir Robert de Willoughby, Sir Miles Stapleton, John, son of Sir John de Norwich, &c. the manor of HalesHall in Loddon, one messuage, 4 carucates of land, 24 acres of meadow, 2 of wood, 20 of marsh, and 100s. rent, in Hales, Loddon, Kirkeby, with the advowson of Hales-Hall chapel, purchased by John de Norwich in reversion; Sir George Felbrigg of Tottington, holding two parts of the manor and lands, in right (as I take it) of the widow of Edmund de Reedisham, then his wife, and Joan, widow of John de Hales, holding a 3d part in dower. (fn. 3)

 

Sir Simon Felbrigg, in the 12th of Henry IV. recovered the manor of Hales-Hall by writ of Novel Disseisin, against John Hotot, and held his first court on Tuesday next after the assumption of the blessed Virgin, and it was after settled on his two feoffees, Sir John Howard, and Sir John de Ingaldesthorp, &c.

 

In the 19th of Henry VI. Nicholas Waleys and John Pewk, were querents in a fine, and Henry Walpole, and Margaret his wife, deforciants of 10l. rent, per ann. in Loddon-Hales manor, conveyed to Pewk; and in the 30th of that King, Hugh Croke, vicar of Hale, was a trustee of Thomas Cleymonds, Esq. deceased, late lord.

 

¶After this, it was possessed by Sir James Hobart, attorney-general, and of the privy council to King Henry VII. of whom, and his ancestors, see in Plumstede Parva, in Blofield hundred. His benefactions and good works, testify his charity and generosity; he resided in his manor-house here, which he built for the most part, (and died here,) with the elegant parish church of the Holy Trinity, at Loddon; also a fair bridge over the Waveney river, between Norfolk and Suffolk, called St. Olaves, or Tooley's bridge, with a good causeway to it; (fn. 4) contributed to the rebuilding of the council chamber in the Guild-Hall of the city of Norwich, and to the noble arched stone roof of the cathedral church of Norwich. Sir Walter Hobart was his son and heir, and lord of this manor; sheriff of Norfolk and Suffolk, ao. 1, Henry VIII. in the 20 of that King, he settled this lordship, with that of Chatgrave, Lille ford's, Tilney in Norfolk, and others in Suffolk, as may be seen in Chatgrave, Loddon hundred, on Walter Hobart, Esq. his son and heir. A pedigree of the eldest branch of the family I have here annexed.

 

James Hobart, Esq. sold it in the 12 of Charles I. to Henry Humberstone, Esq. (as is mentioned in Bigot's manor above,) whose son William, is said to have conveyed part of it to Francis Gardiner, Esq. and part to the Lady Dionysia Williamson, relict of Sir Thomas Williamson, Baronet, of Markham Magna in Nottinghamshire, daughter and heir of William Hales, Esq. son of Richard Hales, Esq. who was lady of this manor of Hales-Hall, in 1666, and resided here; she gave 4000l. to the rebuilding the church of St. Dunstan in the East, of London; to the rebuilding of St. Paul's cathedral, 2001l. and was a benefactress to the rebuilding of the church of St. Mary Le Bow, in London, giving 2000l. and at her death, left Hales-Hall to John Hoskins, Esq. her nephew, (who was lord in 1687,) with the impropriated rectory of Loddon.

 

The abbot of St. Edmund of Bury, had a lordship which Frodo held of them at the survey; 9 men, 2 of them were socmen, and 7 more, belonged to the abbot's lordship, and were under his protection only, held 64 acres in King Edward's reign, when there were 2 borderers and 5 freemen, with 6 acres; this was valued with Loddon. (fn. 5)

 

Frodo, also, held of the abbot one acre, of which 2 freemen were deprived; valued at 4d. (fn. 6) Of this Frodo, &c. see in Loddon, which manor extended also into this town.

 

Godric, the King's steward, held one acre and a half, out of which a freeman was ejected: this was granted to Godric on the forfeiture of Ralph Earl of Norfolk, who had a moiety (as lord) of this freeman. (fn. 7)

 

The tenths were 2l. 10s. Deducted 10s. Temporalities of St. Olaves 8d. and of Langley abbey 24s.

 

The Church of Hales was a rectory, but granted in the 4th of Henry I. by Ralph de Chedgrave, and Emma his wife, to William, prior of St. Olaves, probably founder of that priory; and a vicar was appointed on its appropriation to that convent. It was dedicated to St. Margaret, and it appears by the register of Langley abbey, that the prior and convent of St. Olaves at Hering flete in Suffolk were rectors of Hale, and had the tithe of 235 acres of land in Hale parish belonging to Langley abbey, in exchange for 235 acres of land in Loddon and Heckingham, belonging to the priory of St. Olaves. (fn. 8)

 

In the reign of Edward I. the rectory was valued at 11 marks, and the vicarage at 40s. The vicar had then a manse with 30 acres of land. Peter-pence 18d. Carvage 12d. 0b.

 

Vicars.

 

In 1317, Adam de Blofield was instituted vicar, presented by the prior of St. Olaves, and nominated by the Bishop of Norwich.

 

1326, John de Carlethorp. Ditto.

 

1333, Roger de Petengraunt. Ditto.

 

1337, Adam de Bergh. Ditto.

 

1349, John Le Neve. Ditto.

 

1366, William Warren. Ditto.

 

1366, John Stalworth. Ditto.

 

1377, Peter de Wynch. Ditto.

 

1382, Roger Calf. Ditto.

 

1382, John Wandeford. Ditto.

 

1391, Simon Bangot. Ditto.

 

1391, John Bradock. Ditto.

 

1395, John Smith. Ditto.

 

1397, Henry Welden. Ditto.

 

1397, Thomas Coyte. Ditto.

 

1398, Richard Bytering. Ditto.

 

1403, Richard Bangoot. Ditto.

 

1403, John Ousnell Ditto.

 

1404, Walter Jakes. Ditto.

 

1413, William Norwich. Ditto.

 

1417, Thomas Smith. Ditto.

 

In 1458, Hugh Croke occurs vicar.

 

In 1503, I find it served by a stipendiary curate, for 5l. per ann. and he then returned 45 communicants, John Hill being the impropriator; and in 1742, the heirs of Mr. Peter Lawes.

 

¶Here was also a chapel at Hales-Hall, belonging to the manor of the family of De Hales, dedicated to St. Andrew: this, with the hall, stood in the parish of Loddon, and in 1287, it is said to stand in the manor of Wrantishagh, belonging to Sir Roger de Hales, in Loddon parish, and leave was then granted to him, that he might institute the chaplains of it, by the concession and grant of the abbot of Langley, rectors of the church of Loddon, and of John de Feryby, official to William, Bishop of Norwich, the said Sir Roger and his heirs granting to the chaplains all the obventions and oblations, with the small tithes of his court, and that the servant, of him and his heirs having their habitations in the parish of Loddon, shall pay to the mother church of Loddon, the oblations accustomed, and shall receive the sacraments there. (fn. 9) And the chaplains administering in the said chapel, were to pay yearly to the said mother church, in acknowledgment of subjection, all the oblations and obventions given on Easter-day, and St. Andrew's day, and two wax candles of a pound of wax, on Trinity Sunday, and to give security to the vicars of Loddon, for the time being, that they should not say any anniversaries, trentals, or any masses for any parishioners of Loddon.

 

In 1331, Sir John de Hales was patron, and in 1349; and John, son and heir of Sir John, in 1361.

 

Alexander de Hales, styled Doctor Irrefragabilis, who died in 1245, was born here. Hales, Halesworth, Halestead, Alesham and Aylesford, so called, as near to some river or water.

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/topographical-hist-norfolk/vol8...

A round towered church with a spire; somewhat unusual I imagine. Someone might like to correct me on that and I find its quite common.

 

I had seen shots of St George taken from the air by my Flickr friend, John Fielding. I decided to see if any of the churches he had snapped were near to my route to Cambridge, and found they were.

 

I did not think of going to Shimpling this day, but as this and Frenze are under the care of the Church Conservation Trust, an information board at the latter said I should go to the former if I enjoyed Frenze.

 

So I did.

 

Driving through Diss, trying to program the sat nav, easy as the main road through the town, under the railway bridge was a solid line of traffic, I only hoped that Shimpling would not be back the way I had just come.

 

The route took me through some of the narrow streets of the town centre, a place to go back to to explore I think, but my route took me out north through the modern houses then into the flat countryside of south Norfolk.

 

I arrived in Shimpling, a few houses and farms; where could the church be, and just as I was about to stop and annoy the lorry behind, I saw the information board at the start of the farm track leading to St George.

 

------------------------------------------

 

.

St George is a familiar sight to drivers between Ipswich and Norwich, off in the fields near Dickleburgh. A substantial, landmark church; and yet it is redundant. Coming from Suffolk, where the local Anglican Diocese goes out of its way to avoid redundancies if it can, Shimpling's redundancy seemed careless. This is not a tiny village, and if drawn into a group with Dickleburgh could surely have sustained a monthly service or so. Probably, if it arose nowadays, St George would not be declared redundant. From the point of view of the building, of course, it was both a blessing and a mercy, as the church is now in the capable, caring hands of the Churches Conservation Trust.

 

The setting of St George just to the south of its village is superb. A cart track leads up from a farm, difficult of access at the best of times, but suicide on this day when the snow still lay deep in the ruts, the mud sucking at our boots. If we had attempted to drive it then I guess the tractor would be getting to us about now. The keyholders both live about a mile off, but the walk was worth it.

 

St George is perhaps more typical of Suffolk than Norfolk, a rural church made opulent by the wealth of the later years of the 15th century. Then came the font, the benches, the roof, the surviving scattering of medieval angel glass. Otherwise, the feeling is of the much-maligned Victorians, who loved churches and wanted this one restored to its former glory. Geoffery Millard, rector through those times, has his memorial in the chancel, but all around it is the building that he would recognise instantly if he stepped into it today.

 

Amber light filled the space beneath the tower, and I was glad I was here, in this silent frozen space, this touchstone to the long generations. Some curiosities: under the benches at the west end, there is a trap door. Inside, some of the original medieval tiles have survived the Victorians; they merely built a wooden platform over them. Then, a wholly secular brass inscription of 1591 to Anthony le Grys is set in the mddle of the nave - but the inlay is the wrong size and shape, and so it must come originally from somewhere else. A small hole in the north wall of the sanctuary is surely too tiny to have been an aumbry. And yet, it is set back to take a door, and appears once to have had some sort of wooden tympanum set over it. Could it have been a squint from a shrine chapel? Or even from an anchorite's cell?

 

Incidentally, another curious thing: There is a Shimpling in Suffolk as well, and the churches of both are dedicated to St George, an otherwise unusual East Anglian dedication. The reason appears to be that the enthusiastic 18th century antiquarians, ruttling around in the Diocesan records at Norwich, accidentally applied the dedication of the Suffolk church to both, dedications having fallen out of use for two hundred years or more.

 

Simon Knott, March 2005

  

www.norfolkchurches.co.uk/shimpling/shimpling.htm

 

-----------------------------------------

 

SHIMPLING

¶Is bounded on the east by Dickleburgh, on the west by Burston, on the south by Thelton, and on the north by Gissing. It is a rectory appendant to the manor, and being discharged of first fruits and tenths, is capable of augmentation. The rectory hath a house and 16 acres of glebe: Norwich Domesday says, that Richard de Boyland was then patron, that the rector had a house and xv. acres of land; that the procurations were then vi.s. viii.d. and the synodals xxii.d.

 

Rectors.

 

1305, 6 kal. Dec. Robert de Boswyle, accolite, William de Schympling.

 

1328, 7 kal. Mar. Will. de Schymplyng, accolite. Roger, son of Will. de Shympling.

 

1338, 12 July, John de Cherchegate, priest to St. George's church at Shympling. Ditto.

 

1349, Robert Sampson, priest. Emma, late wife of Roger de Schymplyng.

 

1361, 13 Sept. Ric. de Halle, priest. Ditto.

 

1362, 21 Sept. Peter Scott. Ditto.

 

1386, 19 April, Tho. de Welles. Thomas de Glemesford.

 

1393, 28 March, Welles changed this with John Mulle for Mildeston rectory, in Sarum diocese. Roger de Ellingham and Joan Hardegrey.

 

1396, 29 March, Mulle exchanged with Will. Stone for Ludenham in Kent. Ditto.

 

1401, 29 Aug. John Drury, priest, who resigned Watton vicarage in exchange for this. Roger de Elyngham.

 

1408, 7 Aug. John Cok of Illington, priest.

 

1421, 8 Octob. Reginald Pepper of Berton Bendysch, priest, on the resignation of Cok. Ditto.

 

1421, 6 March, Tho. Young, on Pepper's resignation. William, son of Roger de Elyngham of Elyngham, near Bungey.

 

1422, 22 March, Rich. Senyngwell, on Young's resignation. Ditto.

 

1430, 20 Sept. Walter Skyde of Disse. Lapse.

 

1432, 23 Octob. Thomas Wright. Lapse.

 

1434, 14 Dec. John Grygby. William Elyngham of Elyngham by Bungey.

 

1437, 12 Octob. Richard de Schymplyng, on Grygby's resignation. William Elyngham of Elyngham by Bungey.

 

1449, 31 Jan. Robert Caade, resigned to John Beest, in exchange for Winterburn Basset rectory, in Wiltshire. Ditto.

 

1451, 21 April, Thomas Messinger, on Beest's death. Ditto.

 

1504, John Odiham.

 

1507, 4 Aug. James Galle. (fn. 1) Lapse.

 

1525, 19 Octob. Thomas Warde. Thomas Shardelowe, Esq.

 

1536, 26 March, John Lanman, (fn. 2) on Ward's death. John Aldham, lord of the moiety of Elyngham's manor here, by turns.

 

1563, 26 June, Thomas Oxford, alias Farmor, A. M. Stephen Shardelowe, Gent.

 

1572, 24 Nov. William Luffkyn, on Oxford's resignation. Stephen Shardelowe, and John Aldham, patrons.

 

1609, 1 Aug. Nicholas Colte. (fn. 3) John Sherdelowe.

 

1642, Jeremiah Gowen. (fn. 4) Adrian Mott of Braintree, and Margaret Carter of Stratford in Essex.

 

1649, Thomas Cole, (fn. 5) clerk, A. M. John and James Mott, Gent.

 

1684, 9 Dec. John Rand. John Buxton, Esq. united to Burston.

 

1706, 1 Jan. John Calver, on Rand's death. Robert Buxton, Esq. united to Gissing.

 

1729, The Rev. Mr. Thomas Buxton, the present rector, [1736,] united to Thorp-Parva.

 

The Church hath a steeple, round at bottom, and octangular at top, and four small bells; it is leaded, though the chancel is thatched, and the north porch tiled. It is dedicated to St. George, (fn. 6) whose effigies, with his shield, viz. arg. a plain cross gul. is to be seen in a south window of the chancel, and seems to be as old as the building, which in all appearance was in the beginning of the thirteenth century, (though the steeple is much older,) for then William de Shimplyng was lord and patron, whose arms still remain under this effigies, viz. arg. a chief gul. a fess between six de-lises sab.

 

Here was a Gild in honour of the same saint, (fn. 7) and a Chapel dedicated to St. Mary, which stood in Shimpling Hithe, of which there are no remains. This had some endowment, for Girrard the Prior, (fn. 8) and his Chapter at Norwich, with the Bishop's consent, granted to Richard the chaplain of Shimpling, 7 roods of meadow in Roreker in Shimpling, &c. in perpetual alms, paying yearly 5d. at the high altar in the cathedral, to which John Pierson of Gissing, and others, were witnesses, (fn. 9) so that this must be before 1201, for in that year Gerrard the Prior died; this was down before the general dissolution, for I meet with no grant of it at that time.

 

St. George and the dragon, and the arms of Shimpling, are carved on the font; the chancel is covered with large grave-stones, all disrobed of their brasses; several of them were laid over the rectors, as appear from the chalice and wafer upon them, that being the symbol of a priest; the rest that had arms, I take to be laid over the Shimplings and the Shardelows. The arms of

 

Shardelow are, arg. a chevron gul. between three croslets fitchee, az. Crest, a plume of feathers arg.

 

On a small stone towards the west end of the church:

 

Richard Lesingham, ob. 5° die. Octob. Anno Dni. 1705, Ætatis suæ - - - -

 

Here let him rest, Memory stile him dear, 'Till our Redeemer Shall in the clouds appear.

 

On a marble near the pulpit: arms of

 

Potter, sab. a fess between three mullets arg. Crest, an elephant's head erased arg. gutte de sang.

 

Here in expectation of a joyful resurrection, resteth the body of Cicill Potter, Gent. who dyed Jan. the 29th, 1693, aged 70 years.

 

In a window:

 

Gloria in Errelsis Deo.

 

Here are twelve penny loaves given to as many poor people, by the rector and church-wardens, on the first Sunday in every month, there being land tied for it.

 

In the Confessor's time Torbert held this manor of Stigand, it being then worth 20s. of whom the part in Gissing was also held by another freeman, and was then of 5s. value, but was risen to ten in the Conqueror's time, though Shimpling continued at the same value. This, as one manor, was given by the Conqueror to Roger Bygod, who gave it to Robert de Vais, (de Vallibus, or Vaus,) it being then a mile and a quarter long, and a mile broad. (fn. 10) The whole paid 5d. Geld. There was then a church and 10 acres glebe, valued at 12d. and several other manors extended hither, of which I shall afterwards treat in their proper places. The Vaises held it of Bygod's successors, till 1237, in which year Oliver de Vallibus (fn. 11) granted it to Richard de Rupella, (afterwards called Rokele,) settling it on him and his heirs by fine, (fn. 12) to be held of him by knight's service; he died in 1287, at which time he held it of John de Vallibus. This Richard granted it to be held of him and his heirs by Richard de Boyland, in trust for Ralph Carbonell, (fn. 13) who held it of Maud, wife of William de Roos, who was daughter and coheir of John de Vaux. This Ralph conveyed it to

 

Roger de Schymplyng, to be held by knight's service of Richard Rokeles's heirs; and in 1280, the said Roger (fn. 14) was lord, the manor being settled upon him, and Emma his wife, in tail; after their deaths it came to William de Schympling, (fn. 15) their son, who held it of Richard Rokell at half a fee, he of the Earl-Marshal, and he of the King in capite. This William married Margaret de Tacolveston, (fn. 16) on whom the manor was settled for life in 1303, it being then held of William de Roos and Maud his wife, and Petronell de Vaux, her sister. This William purchased a great part of the town of divers persons. He had a son named Roger, who presented in 1328, and held it till about 1345, when he was dead, and Emma his wife had it, at whose death it fell divisible between their three daughters: (fn. 17)

 

Isabel, married to John Kirtling, to whom this manor was allotted;

 

Joan, who had Moring-Thorp manor, and

 

Katerine, married to William de Ellyngham, who had Dalling manor in Flordon. Isabell had issue, Roger and Emma, who left none, so that this manor and advowson descended to Roger, son of William de Elyngham and Katerine his wife, daughter of Roger de Schymplyng, which said Roger de Elyngham held it in 1401, by half a fee, of John Copledick, Knt. who held it of the Lady Roos, she of Thomas Mowbray, and he in capite of the King. How it went from the Elynghams I do not know, but imagine it must be by female heiresses; for in 1521, Humphry Wyngfield had a moiety of it, and John Aldham had another part; he died in 1558, and was buried in this chancel, leaving his part to John his son, (fn. 18) who held it jointly with Bonaventure Shardelowe, in 1571; Mr. Aldham had a fourth part of the manor, and a third turn, and Mr. Shardelow three parts and two turns. The patronage and manor was in Mr. John Motte, who was buried October 7, 1640, and John Motte, and his brother James, presented in 1649. It looks as if the Mottes had Aldham's part, and after purchased Shardelow's of Mr. John Shardelowe, who held it till 1611, together with Dalling manor in Florden, which was held of Shimpling manor. He conveyed it to Edmund Skipwith, Esq. and Antony Barry, Gent. and they to Thomas Wales, and John Basely, Gent. who conveyed it to the Motts, from whom, I am apt to think, it came to the Proctors, for John Buxton of St. Margaret's in South Elmham had it, in right of his wife, who was kinswoman and heiress of Mr. Proctor, rector of Gissing; after this it came to Robert Buxton, Esq. who died and left it to Elizabeth his wife, who is since dead, and Elizabeth Buxton, their only daughter, a minor, is now [1736] lady and patroness.

 

The Leet belongs to the manor, and the fine is at the lord's will.

 

As to the other parts of this village, (fn. 19) they being parts of the manors of Titshall, Fersfield, and Brisingham, it is sufficient to observe, that they went with those manors, except that part held by Fulco, of which the register called Pinchbek, fo. 182, says that Fulco or Fulcher held of the Abbot in Simplingaham and Gissing, 70 acres, and 4 borderers, being infeoffed by Abbot Baldwin in the time of the Conqueror; this, about Edward the First's time, was in Sir John Shardelowe, a judge in that King's reign, in whose family it continued till 1630, when it was sold to Mr. Mott. The seat of the Shardelows is now called the Place, and is the estate of the Duke of Grafton; and (as I am informed) formerly belonged to Isaac Pennington, (fn. 20) alderman of London, one of those rebels that sat as judges at the King's trial, for which villainy he was knighted. He lived to the Restoration, when, according to his deserts, his estates were seized as forfeited to King Charles II. who gave this to the Duke of Grafton; upon the forfeiture, the copyhold on the different manors were also seized, which is the reason that the quitrents to Gissing, Titshall, &c. are so large, they being made so when the Lords regranted them.

 

¶I have seen an ancient deed made by John Camerarius, or Chambers, of Shimpling, to Richard de Kentwell, clerk, and Alice his wife, and their heirs, of 3 acres of land in this town, witnessed by Sir Gerard de Wachesam, Knt. and others, which is remarkable, for its never having any seal, and its being dated at Shimpling in the churchyard, on Sunday next before Pentecost, anno 1294. (fn. 21) This shews us that seals (as Lambard justly observes (fn. 22) ) were not in common use at this time; and, therefore, to make a conveyance the most solemn and publick that could be, the deed was read to the parish, after service, in the churchyard, that all might know it, and be witnesses, if occasion required. The Saxons used no seals, only signed the mark of a cross to their instruments, to which the scribe affixed their names, by which they had a double meaning; first, to denote their being Christians, and then, as such, to confirm it by the symbol of their faith. The first sealed charter we meet with is that of Edward the Confessor to Westminster abbey, which use he brought with him from Normandy, where he was brought up; and for that reason it was approved of by the Norman Conqueror; though sealing grew into common use by degrees, the King at first only using it, then some of the nobility, after that the nobles in general, who engraved on their seals their own effigies covered with their coat armour; after this, the gentlemen followed, and used the arms of their family for difference sake. But about the time of Edward III. seals became of general use, and they that had no coat armour, sealed with their own device, as flowers, birds, beasts, or whatever they chiefly delighted in, as a dog, a hare, &c.; and nothing was more common than an invention or rebus for their names, as a swan and a tun for Swanton, a hare for Hare, &c.; and because very few of the commonality could write, (all learning at that time being among the religious only,) the person's name was usually circumscribed on his seal, so that at once they set both their name and seal, which was so sacred a thing in those days, that one man never used another's seal, without its being particularly taken notice of in the instrument sealed, and for this reason, every one carried their seal about them, either on their rings, or on a roundel fastened sometimes to their purse, sometimes to their girdle; nay, oftentimes where a man's seal was not much known, he procured some one in publick office to affix theirs, for the greater confirmation: thus Hugh de Schalers, (or Scales,) a younger son of the Lord Scales's family, parson of Harlton in Cambridgeshire, upon his agreeing to pay the Prior of Bernewell 30s. for the two third parts of the tithe corn due to the said Prior out of several lands in his parish, because his seal was known to few, he procured the archdeacon's official to put his seal of office, for more ample confirmation: (fn. 23) and when this was not done, nothing was more common than for a publick notary to affix his mark, which being registered at their admission into their office, was of as publick a nature as any seal could be, and of as great sanction to any instrument, those officers being always sworn to the true execution of their office, and to affix no other mark, than that they had registered, to any instrument; so their testimony could be as well known by their mark, as by their name; for which reason they were called Publick Notaries, Nota in Latin signifying a mark, and Publick because their mark was publickly registered, and their office was to be publick to all that had any occasion for them to strengthen their evidence. There are few of these officers among us now, and such as we have, have so far varied from the original of their name, that they use no mark at all, only add N. P. for Notary Publick, at the end of their names. Thus also the use of seals is now laid aside, I mean the true use of them, as the distinguishing mark of one family from another, and of one branch from another; and was it enjomed by publick authority, that every one in office should, upon his admission, choose and appropriate to himself a particular seal, and register a copy of it publickly, and should never use any other but that alone, under a severe penalty, I am apt to think, in a short time we should see the good effects of it; (fn. 24) for a great number of those vagabonds that infest our country under pretence of certificates signed by proper magistrates, (whose hands are oftener counterfeit than real,) would be detected; for though it is easy for an ill-designing person to forge a handwriting, it is directly the contrary as to a seal; and though it is in the power of all to know the magistrates names, it is but very few of such sort of people that could know their seals; so that it would in a great measure (if not altogether) put a stop to that vile practice; and it would be easy for every magistrate to know the seals of all others, if they were entered properly, engraved, and published: and it might be of service, if all the office seals in England (or in those foreign parts that any way concern the realm) were engraved and published, for then it would be in every one's power to know whether the seals of office affixed to all passes, &c. were genuine or no; for it is well known that numbers travel this nation, under pretence of passes from our consuls and agents abroad, and sometimes even deceive careful magistrates with the pretended hands and seals of such, it being sometimes impossible for them to know the truth, which by this means would evidently appear. And thus much, and a great deal more, may be said to encourage the true and original use of that wise Conqueror's practice, who can scarce be said to put any thing into use but what he found was of advantage to his government.

 

This rectory is in Norfolk archdeaconry, and Redenhall deanery: it had 69 communicants in 1603, and hath now [1736] 23 houses, and about 130 inhabitants. The town is valued at 300l. per annum. (fn. 25) Here are 3 acres of town land, one piece is a small pightle abutting on the land of Robert Leman, Esq. another piece is called Susan's pightle, lying in Gissing, and was given by a woman of this name, to repair the church porch, (as I am informed,) the other piece lies in Diss Heywode, and pays an annual rent of 5s.

 

The Commons are Kett's Fen, which contains about 4 acres; Pound Green, 1 acre; Hall Green, 4 acres; the Bottom, 6 acres; and the Lower Green, 6 acres.

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/topographical-hist-norfolk/vol1...

Nearly halfway through the month, and it's the weekend again, and the the good news is that the sore throat I had on Friday went and did not return.

 

Which is nice.

 

Jools's cough, however, which seemed like it was getting better, returned slightly on Friday evening, and would again on Saturday. We had tockets to see Public Service Bradcasting again, this time in Margate, but our hearts were not in it, if I'm honest, and in the end we decided not to go in light of her coughing, but also as I said, we saw them a month back, though this would be a different show.

 

And Norwich were on the tellybox, what could be better than watching that?

 

Anything, as it turned out.

 

But that was for later.

 

We went to Tesco, a little later than usual, as we had slept in rather, then back home for breakfast before the decision on what to do for the day. Jools decided to stay home to bead and read, I would go out.

 

There are three churches near to home that I feel I needed to revisit, St Margaret's itself I should be able to get the key from the village shop at any time, but St Mary in Dover hasn't been open the last few times I have been in town, and Barfrestone was closed most of the year due to vandalism.

 

But Saturday morning there is usually a coffee morning in St Mary, so I went down armed with camera and lenses to take more shots of the details, especially of the windows.

 

There was a small group with the Vicar, talking in one of the chapels, so I made busy getting my shots, just happy that the church was open. I left a fiver with the vicar, and walked back to the car, passing the old guy supping from a tin of cider sitting outside the church hall.

 

-------------------------------------------------

 

In the heart of the town with a prominent twelfth-century tower. From the outside it is obvious that much work was carried out in the nineteenth century. The church has major connections with the Lord Wardens of the Cinque Ports and is much used for ceremonial services. The western bays of the nave with their low semi-circular arches are contemporary with the tower, while the pointed arches to the east are entirely nineteenth century. The scale and choice of stone is entirely wrong, although the carving is very well done. However the east end, with its tall narrow lancet windows, is not so successful. The Royal Arms, of the reign of William and Mary, are of carved and painted wood, with a French motto - Jay Maintendray - instead of the more usual Dieu et Mon Droit. The church was badly damaged in the Second World War, but one of the survivors was the typical Norman font of square Purbeck marble construction. One of the more recent additions to the church is the Herald of Free Enterprise memorial window of 1989 designed by Frederick Cole.

 

www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Dover+1

 

-------------------------------------------

 

THE TOWN AND PORT OF DOVER.

DOVER lies at the eastern extremity of Kent, adjoining to the sea, the great high London road towards France ending at it. It lies adjoining to the parish of Charlton last-described, eastward, in the lath of St. Augustine and eastern division of the county. It is within the liberty of the cinque ports, and the juristion of the corporation of the town and port of Dover.

 

DOVER, written in the Latin Itinerary of Antonine, Dubris. By the Saxons, Dorsa, and Dofris. By later historians, Doveria; and in the book of Domesday, Dovere; took its name most probably from the British words, Dufir, signifying water, or Dusirrha, high and steep, alluding to the cliffs adjoining to it. (fn. 1)

 

It is situated at the extremity of a wide and spacious valley, inclosed on each side by high and steep hills or cliffs, and making allowance for the sea's withdrawing itself from between them, answers well to the description given of it by Julius Cæfar in his Commentaries.

 

In the middle space, between this chain of high cliffs, in a break or opening, lies the town of Dover and its harbour, which latter, before the sea was shut out, so late as the Norman conquest, was situated much more within the land than it is at present, as will be further noticed hereafter.

 

ON THE SUMMIT of one of these cliffs, of sudden and stupendous height, close on the north side of the town and harbour, stands DOVER CASTLE, so famous and renowned in all the histories of former times. It is situated so exceeding high, that it is at most times plainly to be seen from the lowest lands on the coast of France, and as far beyond as the eye can discern. Its size, for it contains within it thirty five acres of ground, six of which are taken up by the antient buildings, gives it the appearance of a small city, having its citadel conspicuous in the midst of it, with extensive fortifications, around its walls. The hill, or rather rock, on which it stands, is ragged and steep towards the town and harbour; but towards the sea, it is a perpendicular precipice of a wonderful height, being more than three hundred and twenty feet high, from its basis on the shore.

 

Common tradition supposes, that Julius Cæfar was the builder of this castle, as well as others in this part of Britain, but surely without a probability of truth; for our brave countrymen found Cæfar sufficient employment of a far different sort, during his short stay in Britain, to give him any opportunity of erecting even this one fortress. Kilburne says, there was a tower here, called Cæsar's tower, afterwards the king's lodgings; but these, now called the king's keep, were built by king Henry II. as will be further mentioned hereafter; and he further says, there were to be seen here great pipes and casks bound with iron hoops, in which was liquor supposed to be wine, which by long lying had become as thick as treacle, and would cleave like birdlime; salt congealed together as hard as stone; cross and long bows and arrows, to which brass was fastened instead of feathers, and they were of such size, as not to be fit for the use of men of that or any late ages. These, Lambarde says, the inhabitants shewed as having belonged to Cæfar, and the wine and salt as part of the provision he had brought with him hither; and Camden relates, that he was shewn these arrows, which he thinks were such as the Romans used to shoot out of their engines, which were like to large crossbows. These last might, no doubt, though not Cæsar's, belong to the Romans of a later time; and the former might, perhaps, be part of the provisions and stores which king Henry VIII. laid in here, at a time when he passed from hence over sea to France. But for many years past it has not been known what is become of any of these things.

 

Others, averse to Cæsar's having built this castle, and yet willing to give the building of it to the empire of the Romans of a later time, suppose, and that perhaps with some probability, it was first erected by Arviragus, (or Arivog, as he is called on his coin) king of Britain, in the time of Claudius, the Roman emperor. (fn. 2)

 

That there was one built here, during the continuance of the Roman empire in Britain, must be supposed from the necessity of it, and the circumstances of those times; and the existence of one plainly appears, from the remains of the tower and other parts of the antient church within it, and the octagon tower at the west end, in which are quantities of Roman brick and tile. These towers are evidently the remains of Roman work, the former of much less antiquity than the latter, which may be well supposed to have been built as early as the emperor Claudius, whose expedition hither was about or immediately subsequent to the year of Christ 44. Of these towers, probably the latter was built for a speculum, or watch-tower, and was used, not only to watch the approach of enemies, but with another on the opposite hill, to point out the safe entrance into this port between them, by night as well as by day.

 

In this fortress, the Romans seem afterwards to have kept a garrison of veterans, as we learn from Pancirollus, who tells us that a company of soldiers under their chief, called Præpositus Militum Tungricanorum, was stationed within this fortess.

 

Out of the remains of part of the above-mentioned Roman buildings here, a Christian church was erected, as most historians write, by Lucius, king of Britain, about the year 161; but it is much to be doubted whether there ever was such a king in Britain; if there was, he was only a tributary chief to the Roman emperor, under whose peculiar government Britain was then accounted. This church was built, no doubt, for the use of that part of the garrison in particular, who were at that time believers of the gospel, and afterwards during the different changes of the Christian and Pagan religions in these parts, was made use of accordingly, till St. Augustine, soon after the year 597, at the request of king Ethelbert, reconsecrated it, and dedicated it anew, in honour of the blessed Virgin Mary.

 

¶His son and successor Eadbald, king of Kent, founded a college of secular canons and a provost in this church, whose habitations, undoubtedly near it, there are not the least traces of. These continued here till after the year 691; when Widred, king of Kent, having increated the fortifications, and finding the residence of the religious within them an incumbrance, removed them from hence into the town of Dover, to the antient church of St. Martin; in the description of which hereafter, a further account of them will be given.

  

DOVER does not seem to have been in much repute as a harbour, till some time after Cæsar's expedition hither; for the unfitness, as well as insecurity of the place, especially for a large fleet of shipping, added to the character which he had given of it, deterred the Romans from making a frequent use of it, so that from Boleyne, or Gessoriacum, their usual port in Gaul, they in general failed with their fleets to Richborough, or Portus Rutupinus, situated at the mouth of the Thames, in Britain, and thence back again; the latter being a most safe and commodious haven, with a large and extensive bay.

 

Notwithstanding which, Dover certainly was then made use of as a port for smaller vessels, and a nearer intercourse for passengers from the continent; and to render the entrance to it more safe, the Romans built two Specula, or watch-towers, here, on the two hills opposite to each other, to point out the approach to it, and one likewise on the opposite hill at Bologne, for the like purpose there; and it is mentioned as a port by Antoninus, in his Itinerary, in which, ITER III. is A Londinio ad Portum Dubris, i. e. from London to the port of Dover.

 

After the departure of the Romans from Britain, when the port of Bologne, as well as Richborough, fell into decay and disuse, and instead of the former a nearer port came into use, first at Whitsan, and when that was stopped up, a little higher at Calais, Dover quickly became the more usual and established port of passage between France and Britain, and it has continued so to the present time.

 

When the antient harbour of Dover was changed from its antient situation is not known; most probably by various occurrences of nature, the sea left it by degrees, till at last the farmer scite of it became entirely swallowed up by the beach. That the harbour was much further within land, even at the time of the conquest than it is at present, seems to be confirmed by Domesday, in which it is said, that at the entrance of it, there was a mill which damaged almost every ship that passed by it, on account of the great swell of the sea there. Where the scite of this mill was, is now totally unknown, though it is probable it was much within the land, and that by the still further accumulation of the beach, and other natural causes, this haven was in process of time so far filled up towards the inland part of it, as to change its situation still more to the south-west, towards the sea.

 

From the time of the Norman conquest this port continued the usual passage to the continent, and to confine the intercourse to this port only, there was a statute passed anno 4 Edward IV. that none should take shipping for Calais, but at Dover. (fn. 20) But in king Henry VII.'s time, which was almost the next reign, the harbour was become so swerved up, as to render it necessary for the king's immediate attention, to prevent its total ruin, and he expended great sums of money for its preservation. But it was found, that all that was done, would not answer the end proposed, without the building of a pier to seaward, which was determined on about the middle of Henry VIII.'s reign, and one was constructed, which was compiled of two rows of main posts, and great piles, which were let into holes hewn in the rock underneath, and some were shod with iron, and driven down into the main chalk, and fastened together with iron bands and bolts. The bottom being first filled up with great rocks of stone, and the remainder above with great chalk stones, beach, &c. During the whole of this work, the king greatly encouraged the undertaking, and came several times to view it; and in the whole is said to have expended near 63,000l. on it. But his absence afterwards abroad, his ill health, and at last his death, joined to the minority of his successor, king Edward VI. though some feeble efforts were made in his reign, towards the support of this pier, put a stop to, and in the end exposed this noble work to decay and ruin.

 

Queen Mary, indeed, attempted to carry it on again, but neither officers nor workmen being well paid, it came to nothing, so that in process of time the sea having brought up great quantities of beach again upon it, the harbour was choaked up, and the loss of Calais happening about the same time, threatened the entire destruction of it. Providentially the shelf of beach was of itself became a natural defence against the rage of the sea, insomuch, that if a passage could be made for ships to get safely within it, they might ride there securely.

 

To effect this, several projects were formed, and queen Elizabeth, to encourage it, gave to the town the free transportation of several thousand quarters of corn and tuns of beer; and in the 23d of her reign, an act passed for giving towards the repair of the harbour, a certain tonnage from every vessel above twenty tons burthen, passing by it, which amounted to 1000l. yearly income; and the lord Cobham, then lordwarden, and others, were appointed commissioners for this purpose; and in the end, after many different trials to effect it, a safe harbour was formed, with a pier, and different walls and sluices, at a great expence; during the time of which a universal diligence and public spirit appeared in every one concerned in this great and useful work. During the whole of the queen's reign, the improvement of this harbour continued without intermission, and several more acts passed for that purpose; but the future preservation of it was owing to the charter of incorporation of the governors of it, in the first year of king James I. by an act passed that year, by the name of the warden and assistants of the harbour of Dover, the warden being always the lord-warden of the cinque ports for the time being, and his assistants, his lieutenant, and the mayor of Dover, for the time being, and eight others, the warden and assistants only making a quorum; six to be present to make a session; at any of which, on a vacancy, the assistants to be elected; and the king granted to them his land or waste ground, or beach, commonly called the Pier, or Harbour ground, as it lay without Southgate, or Snargate, the rents of which are now of the yearly value of about three hundred pounds.

 

Under the direction of this corporation, the works and improvements of this harbour have been carried on, and acts of parliament have been passed in almost every reign since, to give the greater force to their proceedings.

 

From what has been said before, the reader will observe, that this harbour has always been a great national object, and that in the course of many ages, prodigious sums of money have been from time to time expended on it, and every endeavour used to keep it open, and render it commodious; but after all these repeated endeavours and expences, it still labours under such circumstances, as in a very great degree renders unsuccessful all that has ever been done for that purpose.

 

DOVER, as has been already mentioned, was of some estimation in the time of the Roman empire in Britain, on account of its haven, and afterwards for the castle, in which they kept a strong garrison of sol. diers, not only to guard the approach to it, but to keep the natives in subjection; and in proof of their residence here, the Rev. Mr. Lyon some years since discovered the remains of a Roman structure, which he apprehended to have been a bath, at the west end of the parish-church of St. Mary, in this town, which remains have since repeatedly been laid open when interments have taken place there.

 

This station of the Romans is mentioned by Antonine, in his Itinerary of the Roman roads in Britain, by the name of Dubris, as being situated from the station named Durovernum, or Canterbury, fourteen miles; which distance, compared with the miles as they are now numbered from Canterbury, shews the town, as well as the haven, for they were no doubt contiguous to each other, to have both been nearer within land than either of them are at present, the present distance from Canterbury being near sixteen miles as the road now goes, The sea, indeed, seems antiently to have occupied in great part the space where the present town of Dover, or at least the northwest part of it, now stands; but being shut out by the quantity of beach thrown up, and the harbour changed by that means to its present situation, left that place a dry ground, on which the town of Dover, the inhabitants following the traffic of the harbour, was afterwards built.

 

This town, called by the Saxons, Dofra, and Dofris; by later historians, Doveria; and in Domesday, Dovere; is agreed by all writers to have been privileged before the conquest; and by the survey of Domesday, appears to have been of ability in the time of king Edward the Confessor, to arm yearly twenty vessels for sea service. In consideration of which, that king granted to the inhabitants, not only to be free from the payment of thol and other privileges throughout the realm, but pardoned them all manner of suit and service to any of his courts whatsoever; and in those days, the town seems to have been under the protection and government of Godwin, earl of Kent, and governor of this castle.

 

Soon after the conquest, this town was so wasted by fire, that almost all the houses were reduced to ashes, as appears by the survey of Domesday, at the beginning of which is the following entry of it:

 

DOVERE, in the time of king Edward, paid eighteen pounds, of which money, king E had two parts, and earl Goduin the third. On the other hand, the canons of St. Martin had another moiety. The burgesses gave twenty ships to the king once in the year, for fifteen days; and in each ship were twenty and one men. This they did on the account that he had pardoned them sac and soc. When the messengers of the king came there, they gave for the passage of a horse three pence in winter, and two in summer. But the burgesses found a steerman, and one other assistant, and if there should be more necessary, they were provided at his cost. From the festival of St. Michael to the feast of St. Andrew, the king's peace was in the town. Sigerius had broke it, on which the king's bailiff had received the usual fine. Whoever resided constantly in the town paid custom to the king; he was free from thol throughout England. All these customs were there when king William came into England. On his first arrival in England, the town itself was burnt, and therefore its value could not be computed how much it was worth, when the bishop of Baieux received it. Now it is rated at forty pounds, and yet the bailiff pays from thence fifty-four pounds to the king; of which twenty-four pounds in money, which were twenty in an one, but thirty pounds to the earl by tale.

 

In Dovere there are twenty-nine plats of ground, of which the king had lost the custom. Of these Robert de Romenel has two. Ralph de Curbespine three. William, son of Tedald, one. William, son of Oger, one. William, son of Tedold, and Robert niger, six. William, son of Goisfrid, three, in which the guildhall of the burgesses was. Hugo de Montfort one house. Durand one. Rannulf de Colubels one. Wadard six. The son of Modbert one. And all these vouch the bishop of Baieux as the protector and giver of these houses. Of that plat of ground, which Rannulf de Colubels holds, which was a certain outlaw, they agree that the half of the land was the king's, and Rannulf himself has both parts. Humphry the lame man holds one plat of ground, of which half the forfeiture is the king's. Roger de Ostrabam made a certain house over the king's water, and held to this time the custom of the king; nor was a house there in the time of king Edward. In the entrance of the port of Dovere, there is one mill, which damages almost every ship, by the great swell of the sea, and does great damage to the king and his tenants; and it was not there in the time of king Edward. Concerning this, the grandson of Herbert says, that the bishop of Baieux granted it to his uncle Herbert, the son of Ivo.

 

And a little further, in the same record, under the bishop's possessions likewise:

 

In Estrei hundred, Wibertus holds half a yoke, which lies in the gild of Dover, and now is taxed with the land of Osbert, the son of Letard, and is worth per annum four shillings.

 

From the Norman conquest, the cities and towns of this realm appear to have been vested either in the crown, or else in the clergy or great men of the laity, and they were each, as such, immediately lords of the same. Thus, when the bishop of Baieux, to whom the king had, as may be seen by the above survey, granted this town, was disgraced. It returned into the king's hands by forfeiture, and king Richard I. afterwards granted it in ferme to Robt. Fitz-bernard. (fn. 21)

 

After the time of the taking of the survey of Domesday, the harbour of Dover still changing its situation more to the south-westward, the town seems to have altered its situation too, and to have been chiefly rebuilt along the sides of the new harbour, and as an encouragement to it, at the instance, and through favour especially to the prior of Dover, king Edward I. in corporated this town, the first that was so of any of the cinque ports, by the name of the mayor and commonalty. The mayor to be chosen out of the latter, from which body he was afterwards to chuse the assistants for his year, who were to be sworn for that purpose. At which time, the king had a mint for the coinage of money here; and by patent, anno 27 of that reign, the table of the exchequer of money was appointed to be held here, and at Yarmouth. (fn. 22) But the good effects of these marks of the royal favour were soon afterwards much lessened, by a dreadful disaster; for the French landed here in the night, in the 23d year of that reign, and burnt the greatest part of the town, and several of the religious houses, in it, and this was esteemed the more treacherousk, as it was done whilst the two cardinals were here, treating for a peace between England and France; which misfortune, however, does not seem to have totally impoverished it, for in the 17th year of the next reign of king Edward II it appears in some measure to have recovered its former state, and to have been rebuilt, as appears by the patent rolls of that year, in which the town of Dover is said to have then had in it twenty-one wards, each of which was charged with one ship for the king's use; in consideration of which, each ward had the privilege of a licensed packetboat, called a passenger, from Dover across the sea to Whitsan, in France, the usual port at that time of embarking from thence.

 

The state of this place in the reign of Henry VIII. is given by Leland, in his Itinerary, as follows:

 

"Dovar ys xii myles fro Canterbury and viii fro Sandwich. Ther hath bene a haven yn tyme past and yn taken ther of the ground that lyith up betwyxt the hilles is yet in digging found wosye. Ther hath bene found also peeces of cabelles and anchores and Itinerarium Antonini cawlyth hyt by the name of a haven. The towne on the front toward the se hath bene right strongly walled and embateled and almost al the residew; but now yt is parly fawlen downe and broken downe. The residew of the towne as far as I can perceyve was never waulled. The towne is devided into vi paroches. Wherof iii be under one rose at S. Martines yn the hart of the town. The other iii stand that yt hath be walled abowt but not dyked. The other iii stand abrode, of the which one is cawled S. James of Rudby or more likely Rodeby a statione navium. But this word ys not sufficient to prove that Dovar showld be that place, the which the Romaynes cawlled Portus Rutupi or Rutupinum. For I cannot yet se the contrary but Retesboro otherwise cawlled Richeboro by Sandwich, both ways corruptly, must neades be Rutupinum. The mayne strong and famose castel of Dovar stondeth on the loppe of a hille almost a quarter of a myle of fro the towne on the lyst side and withyn the castel ys a chapel, yn the sides wherof appere sum greate Briton brykes. In the town was a great priory of blacke monkes late suppressed. There is also an hospitalle cawlled the Meason dew. On the toppe of the hye clive betwene the towne and the peere remayneth yet abowt a slyte shot up ynto the land fro the very brymme of the se clysse as ruine of a towr, the which has bene as a pharos or a mark to shyppes on the se and therby was a place of templarys. As concerning the river of Dovar it hath no long cowrse from no spring or hedde notable that descendith to that botom. The principal hed, as they say is at a place cawled Ewelle and that is not past a iii or iiii myles fro Dovar. Ther be springes of frech waters also at a place cawled Rivers. Ther is also a great spring at a place cawled …… and that once in a vi or vii yeres brasted owt so abundantly that a great part of the water cummeth into Dovar streme, but als yt renneth yn to the se betwyxt Dovar and Folchestan, but nerer to Folchestan that is to say withyn a ii myles of yt. Surely the hedde standeth so that it might with no no great cost be brought to run alway into Dovar streame." (fn. 23)

Cougate Crosse-gate Bocheruy-gate stoode with toures toward the se. There is beside Beting-gate and Westegate.

Howbeyt MTuine tol me a late that yt hath be walled abowt but not dyked.

 

This was the state of Dover just before the time of the dissolution of religious houses, in Henry VIII.'s reign, when the abolition of private masses, obits, and such like services in churches, occasioned by the reformation, annillilated the greatest part of the income of the priests belonging to them, in this as well as in other towns, in consequence of which most of them were deserted, and falling to ruin, the parishes belonging to them were united to one or two of the principal ones of them. Thus, in this town, of the several churches in it, two only remained in use for divine service, viz. St. Mary's and St. James's, to which the parishes of the others were united.

 

After this, the haven continuting to decay more than ever, notwithstanding the national assistance afforded to it, the town itself seemed hastening to impoverishment. What the state of it was in the 8th year of queen Elizabeth, may be seen, by the certificate returned by the queen's order of the maritime places, in her 8th year, by which it appears that there were then in Dover, houses inhabited three hundred and fifty-eight; void, or lack of inhabiters, nineteen; a mayor, customer, comptroller of authorities, not joint but several; ships and crayers twenty, from four tons to one hundred and twenty.

 

¶This probable ruin of the town, however, most likely induced the queen, in her 20th year, to grant it a new charter of incorporation, in which the manner of chusing mayor, jurats, and commoners, and of making freemen, was new-modelled, and several surther liberties and privileges granted, and those of the charter of king Edward I. confirmed likewise by inspeximus. After which, king Charles II. in his 36th year, anno 1684, granted to it a new charter, which, however, was never inrolled in chancery, and in consequence of a writ of quo warranto was that same year surrendered, and another again granted next year; but this last, as well as another charter granted by king James II. and forced on the corporation, being made wholly subservient to the king's own purposes, were annulled by proclamation, made anno 1688, being the fourth and last year of his reign: but none of the above charters being at this time extant, (the charters of this corporation, as well as those of the other cinque ports, being in 1685, by the king's command, surrendered up to Col. Strode, then governor of Dover castle, and never returned again, nor is it known what became of them,) Dover is now held to be a corporation by prescription, by the stile of the mayor, jurats, and commonalty of the town and port of Dover. It consists at present of a mayor, twelve jurats, and thirty-six commoners, or freemen, together with a chamberlain, recorder, and town-clerk. The mayor, who is coroner by virtue of his office, is chosen on Sept. 8, yearly, in St. Mary's church, and together with the jurats, who are justices within this liberty, exclusive of all others, hold a court of general sessions of the peace and gaol delivery, together with a court of record, and it has other privileges, mostly the same as the other corporations, within the liberties of the cinque ports. It has the privilege of a mace. The election of mayor was antiently in the church of St. Peter, whence in 1581 it was removed to that of St. Mary, where it has been, as well as the elections of barons to serve in parliament, held ever since. These elections here, as well as elsewhere in churches, set apart for the worship of God, are certainly a scandal to decency and religion, and are the more inexcusable here, as there is a spacious court-hall, much more fit for the purposes. After this, there was another byelaw made, in June, 1706, for removing these elections into the court-hall; but why it was not put in execution does not appear, unless custom prevented it—for if a decree was of force to move them from one church to another, another decree was of equal force to remove them from the church to the courthall. Within these few years indeed, a motion was made in the house of commons, by the late alderman Sawbridge, a gentlemand not much addicted to speak in favour of the established church, to remove all such elections, through decency, from churches to other places not consecrated to divine worship; but though allowed to be highly proper, yet party resentment against the mover of it prevailed, and the motion was negatived by a great majority.

 

The mayor is chosen by the resident freemen. The jurats are nominated from the common-councilmen by the jurats, and appointed by the mayor, jurats, and common-councilmen, by ballot.

  

THE CHURCH OF ST. Mary stands at some distance from the entrance into this town from Canterbury, near the market-place. It is said to have been built by the prior and convent of St. Martin, (fn. 47) in the year 1216; but from what authority, I know not.—Certain it is, that it was in king John's reign, in the gift of the king, and was afterwards given by him to John de Burgh; but in the 8th year of Richard II.'s reign, anno 1384, it was become appropriated to the abbot of Pontiniac. After which, by what means, I cannot discover, this appropriation, as well as the advowson of the church, came into the possession of the master and brethren of the hospital of the Maison Dieu, who took care that the church should be daily served by a priest, who should officiate in it for the benefit of the parish. In which state it continued till the suppression of the hospital, in the 36th year of king Henry VIII.'s reign, when it came into the hands of the crown, at which time the parsonage was returned by John Thompson, master of the hospital, to be worth six pounds per annum.

 

Two years after which, the king being at Dover, at the humble entreaty of the inhabitants of this parish, gave to them, as it is said, this church, with the cemetery adjoining to it, to be used by them as a parochial church; at the same time he gave the pews of St. Martin's church for the use of it; and on the king's departure, in token of possession, they sealed up the church doors; since which, the patronage of it, which is now esteemed as a perpetual curacy, the minister of it being licensed by the archbishop, has been vested in the inhabitants of this parish. Every parishioner, paying scot and lot, having a vote in the chusing of the minister, whose maintenance had been from time to time, at their voluntary option, more or less. It is now fixed at eighty pounds per annum. Besides which he has the possession of a good house, where he resides, which was purchased by the inhabitants in 1754, for the perpetual use of the minister of it. It is exempt from the jurisdiction of the archdeacon. (fn. 48)

 

There is a piece of ground belonging, as it is said, to the glebe of this church, rented annually at ten pounds, which is done by vestry, without the minister being at all concerned in it. In 1588 here were eight hundred and twenty-one communicants. This parish contains more than five parts out of six of the whole town, and a greater proportion of the inhabitants.

 

The church of St. Mary is a large handsome building of three isles, having a high and south chancel, all covered with lead, and built of flints, with ashler windows and door cases, which are arched and ornamented. At the west end is the steeple, which is a spire covered with lead, in which are eight bells, a clock, and chimes. The pillars in the church are large and clumsy; the arches low and semicircular in the body, but eliptical in the chancel; but there is no separation between the body and chancel, and the pews are continued on to the east end of the church. In the high chancel, at the eastern extremity of it, beyond the altar, are the seats for the mayor and jurats; and here the mayor is now chosen, and the barons in parliament for this town and port constantly elected.

 

In 1683, there was a faculty granted to the churchwardens, to remove the magistrates seats from the east end of the church to the north side, or any other more convenient part of it, and for the more decent and commodious placing the communion table: in consequence of which, these seats were removed, and so placed, but they continued there no longer than 1689, when, by several orders of vestry, they were removed back again to where they remain at present.

 

The mayor was antiently chosen in St. Peter's church; but by a bye-law of the corporation, it was removed to this church in 1583, where it has ever since been held. In 1706, another bye law was made, to remove, for the sake of decency, all elections from this church to the court-hall, but it never took place. More of which has been mentioned before.

 

From the largeness, as well as the populousness of this parish, the church is far from being sufficient to contain the inhabitants who resort to it for public worship, notwithstanding there are four galleries in it, and it is otherwise well pewed. This church was paved in 1642, but it was not ceiled till 1706. In 1742, there was an organ erected in it. The two branches in it were given, one by subscription in 1738, and the other by the pilots in 1742.

 

Thomas Toke, of Dover, buried in the chapel of St. Katharine, in this church, by his will in 1484, gave seven acres of land at Dugate, under Windlass-down, to the wardens of this church, towards the repairs of it for ever.

 

¶The monuments and memorials in this church and church yard, are by far too numerous to mention here. Among them are the following: A small monument in the church for the celebrated Charles Churchill, who was buried in the old church-yard of St. Martin in this town, as has been noticed before; and a small stone, with a memorial for Samuel Foote, esq. the celebrated comedian, who died at the Ship inn, and had a grave dug for him in this church, but was afterwards carried to London, and buried there. A monument and several memorials for the family of Eaton; arms, Or, a sret, azure. A small tablet for John Ker, laird of Frogden, in Twit dale, in Scotland, who died suddenly at Dover, in his way to France, in 1730. Two monuments for Farbrace, arms, Azure, a bend, or, between two roses, argent, seeded, or, bearded vert. A monument in the middle isle, to the memory of the Minet family. In the north isle are several memorials for the Gunmans, of Dover; arms,. … a spread eagle, argent, gorged with a ducal coronet, or. There are others, to the memory of Broadley, Rouse, and others, of good account in this town.

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-kent/vol9/pp475-548

I am currently trying to revisit all the churches photographed in the first few years of the Kent Churches Project, which means seeing some great and humble buildings, and sometimes surprise that some did not make more of an impact on me first time time round.

 

Why sits in the shadow of the downs, Wye down being nearest, of course, and also beside the Stour. The chuch sits beside the old main road and beside the old college, with the village spread to its south side.

 

All I remembered from my first time was the glass outer porch door, but my overwhelming feeling this time was of space and light in the mighty high nave.

 

-------------------------------------------

 

A very strange church, the result of the collapse of a tall central tower in 1686. The nave of the medieval church survives almost intact, while the chancel has been constructed from the remains of the central crossing of the thirteenth-century church, and a new tower built. The nave is tall and light, and contrasts well with the short narrow apsed chancel that now contains mural tablets to the Sawbridge and Drax families who lived at Olantigh. The reredos is plain early eighteenth-century work and ties in nicely with the dark oak panelling. The choir stalls which stand in the nave were a thanksgiving memorial for the life of President Kennedy. The west window, which represents Christ in Majesty, is set into plain glass and was designed by Gerald Smith in the 1950s. It is an object lesson in how good glass of this period could be.

 

www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Wye

 

------------------------------------------

 

WYE

LIES the next parish eastward from Challock. It is spelt in Domesday, and other antient records, Wy.

 

¶THE PARISH lies in a healthy country, great part of it being in the fertile Ashford vale; the fine pasture down hills of Wye and Braborne bound the eastern side of it, as does another range of hills on the opposite side, the tops of which are skirted by the large extent of woodland, called King's and Challock woods, over which, for near two miles, this parish reaches westward almost to the church and village of Molash. It contains about two hundred and thirteen houses, and fourteen hundred inhabitants; the rents of it are about 4500l. per annum. The soil of it is various, the hills above mentioned, as well as the vale between in the northern part of it, are mostly chalk; the rest of it a red cludgy earth, much intermixed with slints, a wet unpleasant soil; the meadows near the river are very sertile and rich. The town of Wye, in which the fine tower of the church is a conspicuous object, stands in the vale on the river Stour, which directs its course throught the parish in its way to Canterbury; over it here is a stone bridge of five arches, built in 1630, in the room of the former wooden one, at the charge of the county; the river is plentifully stowed hereabouts with pikes. The town, which stands low and damp, and from that and its soil an unpleasant situation, is a neat well-built town, consisting of two parallel and two cross streets, the whole unpaved. There is a large green in it, built round, on one side of which is the church and college close to it, and on the other a house, which was once the gaol to the manor-court, but long since disused.

 

There is a tradition, that the town once stood in the valley, which lies between Wye-down and Crundal, where the hamlet of Pett-street now is, about which there are still remaining several deep disused wells, and this place is still called Town borough, where as that in which Wye town stands is called Bewbridge-borough. About half a mile westward from the town is a pleasant seat, called Spring-grove, built by Thomas Brett, esq. of this parish, in 1674, who afterwards resided in it.

 

The south part of the parish below the town, is full of small inclosures, and the soil deeper. In it is a hamlet, called Withersden, formerly accounted a manor, in which there is a well, which was once famous, being called St. Eustace's well, taking its name from Eustachius, abbot of Flai, who is mentioned by Matt. Paris, p. 169, an. 1200, to have been a man of learning and sanctity, and to have come and preached at Wye, and to have blessed a fountain there, so that afterwards its waters were endowed, by such miraculous power, that by it all diseases were cured. Hence the parish extends itself further southward by a narrow slip, between Brook and Braborne, to Nacolt-wood, once reputed likewise a manor, and the tile-kiln of that name.

 

Almost one half of the parish now belongs to Mr. Sawbridge, his estate here being greatly increased by his father's late purchase of the estates of Bond Hopkins, esq. which consist of Wye-court, Harvile, Coldharbour, Wye-downs, and Nacolt, in this parish; they formerly, I conjecture, belonged to Wye college, and afterwards to the Kempes; they were bought in chancery by John Hopkins. esq. commonly called from his rapacity, Vulture Hopkins, who died immensely rich in 1732, and devised his estates so as not to be inherited till after the second generation, then unborn; but the court of chancery set the will aside, and gave his estates to his heir-at-law, from whom they descended to the above-mentioned Bond Hopkins, esq. In the northern part of it stands the stately mansion of Ollantigh, close to the river, which is here beautifully formed by art to ornament it. Adjoining are the park-grounds, containing near six hundred acres, which extend almost as far as Wye town; and the eastern part of the ridge of hills called Wye-downs, the chain of which reaches to the sea-shore at Folkestone. On the summit of the hill, at the eastern extremity of this parish, is Fanscomb-beech, a tree visible to all the country round, to a great distance; near it was formerly a cottage, of the same name, now pulled down, and the lands laid into Mr. Sawbridge's park grounds. Also near it is Fannes wood, now a cottage, and belonging to him likewise. Both these were formerly esteemed manors of good account. The manor of Fannes, alias Fanscombe, formerly belonged to the master of the Savoy, now to St. Thomas's hospital, in Southwark, and that of Fannes wood, formerly the property of the Kempes, to Mr. Sawbridge.

 

The high road from Canterbury to Ashford leads along this parish, about half a mile distance westward from Ollantigh, on higher ground from whence there is a fine view over the vale beneath and the opposite downs, including the mansion and grounds of Ollantigh, and the town and church of Wye, which it leaves in its course at the same distance.

 

It is by some supposed that the Romans had a highway through this parish, which went on towards Lenham, and so to Aylesford; and the several remains of that nation dug up on Tremworth-down, in the adjoining parish of Crundal, on the side of it next to this parish, will serve to strengthen this conjecture. Wye had formerly a market on a Thursday, granted to the abbot of Battell, which was held in the time of king Henry VIII. It was held in Leland's time, who calls it a pratie market townelet; but it has been for some time disused. The two fairs formerly held here on St. Gregories day, March 23, and on All Souls day, Nov. 2, are now held on May 29 and Sept. 3, yearly, for Welch cattle, stock, &c.

 

There were formerly several families of good account resident in this town and parish, the Finch's, lived at Wye-court, descended from those of Sewards, in Linsted, a younger branch of the Finch's, of Eastwell; the Swans, removed hither from Lyd. Francis Swan, esq. resided here, his house being in the town of Wye, at the latter end of Henry VIII.'s reign. They bore for their arms, Azure, a chevron, ermine, between three swans, proper; the Twisdens, one of whom, Roger Twisden, gent. was of Wye, had a lease of the scite of the manor of Wye, and other premises here, from the abbot of Battel, anno 25 Henry VIII. and the Haules, who were antiently written De Aula five Haule, in Latin deeds, likewise resided here for several generations, till they removed to Maidstone in king James the 1st.'s reign, where George Haule, esq. of Maidstone, died in 1652. Elizabeth his daughter, and at length sole heir, married Sir Thomas Taylor, bart. of that parish. They bore for their arms, Or, on a saltier, five mulets of the field.

 

In this parish Major George Somner, brother to the antiquary, was killed in an engagement with the rebels, in 1648.

 

ON THE PLACE where the famous and decisive battle between king Harold and William, duke of Normandy, was fought in 1066, the Conqueror in the next year began to build a noble abbey, named from that event, Battell abbev; in Latin records, Abbatia de Bello; the royal founder endowing it with exemptions and privileges of a very extraordinary nature, and with many manors and good estates; among which was this Royal manor of Wye, with all its appendages, being of the demesnes of his crown, as the grant expresses it, with all liberties and royal customs, as well here as in Dengemarsh, which belonged to the court of Wye, (fn. 1) as freely as he himself held it, or as a king could grant it. Accordingly it is thus entered in the record of Domesday, under the title of land of the church of Battell, or De Labatailge, as there spelt.

 

¶The abbot of St. Martin, of the place of Battle, holds the manor which is called Wi, which in the time of king Edward the Confessor, and now, was and is taxed at seven sulings. The arable land is fifty-two carucates. In demesne there are nine carucates, and one hundred and fourteen villeins, with twenty-two borderers, having seventeen carucates. There is a church, and seven servants, and four mills of twenty-three shillings and eight pence, and one hundred and thirty three acres of meadow, and wood for the pannage of three hundred bogs. In the time of king Edward the Confessor it was worth no more than twenty pounds and one hundred shillings, and six shillings and eight pence; when be received it, one hundred and twenty-five pounds, and ten shilling of the twenty in ore; (fn. 2) now one hundred pounds by tale; and if the abbot bad had sac and soc, it would have been worth twenty pounds more.

 

Ralf de Curbespina holds one denne and one yoke of the land, of the sockmen of this manor, and pays by custom six pence. Adelulf two parts of one suling, and pays twelve pence; and Hugo de Montfort has two yoke, and pays three hundred eels and two shillings; and in the time of king Edward the Confessor, they paid both sac and soc.

 

Of the twenty-two hundreds, there belonged to this manor, sac and soc, and all forfeitures, which of right belonged to the king.

 

For such was the dignity of this manor, which then consisted of seven sulings, or hides of land, that, as the antient book of this abbey expressed it, with its own hundred, it had jurisdiction over twenty-two hundreds and an half, which belonged to its court.

 

WYE is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Bridge.

 

The church, which is dedicated to St. Gregory and St. Martin, stands at the north-west corner of the town of Wye, and was built by cardinal Kempe, when he founded the college of Wye in the reign of king Henry VI. being a handsome, large building, with three isles and as many chancels, and a high spire steeple in the middle, which stood on four lofty arches, supported by a like number of large pillars. The great chancel was made choir fashion, wainscotted, and seated round for the members of the new col lege. The north chancel was appointed for the burying-place of the Kempes, owners of Ollantigh; and in the south chancel the parishioners of the better sort were interred. According to tradition, it stood antiently on a little hill just at the entrance into the town from the river, and which is now called Boltshill, but was removed to this place, where it now stands, by the cardinal. In 1572, the steeple was burnt by lightning, and though it was soon afterwards rebuilt, under the care of Gregory Brett, then churchwarden, who was a great contributor to the expence of it; for which the parishioners granted to him and his heirs, a vault, in the middle isle, for their burial; yet in 1685 it fell, and beat down the greatest part of the middle chancel, almost all the two side ones, and the east end of the body of the church, by which all the monuments in the north chancel, of the Kempes, and Thornhills, of Ollantigh, were wholly destroyed, and the tombstone which lay over the cardinal's father and mother, broken to pieces, whose epitaph is preserved by Weever, p. 274. The fragments of several of the old tombstones lay for several years afterwards seattered about the church-yard, and some statues and parts of monuments lay at the lower end of the church; but they have since been removed and there are now none remaining. After this, the remaining part was inclosed with boards, at the east end, to make it fit for divine service, and the rest lay in ruins till the year 1701, when a brief was procured for the rebuilding of it, and within a year or two afterwards it was begun, the remainder of the old chancels was taken down, and only the present small chancel built up at the east end, in the room of that where the choir was, and a tower steeple on the south side, between the chancel and the body of the church, with battlements, and four pinnacles with gilt vanes on them. The present building is small, but neat. It consists, of three isles, the middle one having an upper story and range of windows. There is only one small chancel, new built, circular at the east end, which does not reach near so far as the old one, which extended several feet further, Mr. Chamberlain Godfrey's monument, in the church yard standing, as is said, where the altar formerly did. Towards building the steeple and chancel, the lady Joanna Thornhill, the prebendaries of Canterbury, and others, were contributors, and Richard Thornhill, esq. gave the pavement of the chancel. In the steeple are eight bells and a clock, which were completed in 1774. The only memorials of any time remaining, are three in the body of the church, viz. two for the Bretts, and one having the figures, in brass, of a woman between her two husbands, and underneath of several children, and at bottom an inscription, beginning John Andrew Justus, Thomas Palmer q; venustus, &c. In the chancel is a memorial for Mrs. Catherine Matchem, daughter of George Finch, gent. of this parish, obt. 1713; a monument over a vault, in which lie Agnes and Mary Johnton; the former died in 1763, the latter in 1767, they were descended from Sir Robert Moyle, of Buckwell; and a monument for lady Joanna Thornhill, daughter of Sir Bevill Granville, second wife of Richard Thornhill, esq. of Ollantigh, commander of a regiment of horse raised at his own charge, obt. 1708.

 

This church, appurtenant to the manor of Wye, was given, with it, to the abbey of Battel at its foundation by the Conqueror, and was appropriated to it before the year 1384, being the 8th year of king Richard II. In which state it continued till the reign of king Henry VI. when cardinal Kempe obtained the king's licence to purchase the advowson of the vicarage of the abbot of Battel, and settled it on his newfounded college here, as will be further mentioned hereafter; but the rectory appropriate of Wye remained part of the possessions of the abbey till its dissolution in the 30th year of king Henry VIII. when it came into the king's hands, where this rectory staid till king Edward VI. in his 5th year, granted it and the manor of the vicarage, together with the two tithebarns and the tithes themselves, all parcel of the late monastery of Battel, to Edward, lord Clinton and Saye, who reconveyed them back again to the king, within a month afterwards.

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-kent/vol7/pp340-368

I am currently trying to revisit all the churches photographed in the first few years of the Kent Churches Project, which means seeing some great and humble buildings, and sometimes surprise that some did not make more of an impact on me first time time round.

 

Why sits in the shadow of the downs, Wye down being nearest, of course, and also beside the Stour. The chuch sits beside the old main road and beside the old college, with the village spread to its south side.

 

All I remembered from my first time was the glass outer porch door, but my overwhelming feeling this time was of space and light in the mighty high nave.

 

-------------------------------------------

 

A very strange church, the result of the collapse of a tall central tower in 1686. The nave of the medieval church survives almost intact, while the chancel has been constructed from the remains of the central crossing of the thirteenth-century church, and a new tower built. The nave is tall and light, and contrasts well with the short narrow apsed chancel that now contains mural tablets to the Sawbridge and Drax families who lived at Olantigh. The reredos is plain early eighteenth-century work and ties in nicely with the dark oak panelling. The choir stalls which stand in the nave were a thanksgiving memorial for the life of President Kennedy. The west window, which represents Christ in Majesty, is set into plain glass and was designed by Gerald Smith in the 1950s. It is an object lesson in how good glass of this period could be.

 

www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Wye

 

------------------------------------------

 

WYE

LIES the next parish eastward from Challock. It is spelt in Domesday, and other antient records, Wy.

 

¶THE PARISH lies in a healthy country, great part of it being in the fertile Ashford vale; the fine pasture down hills of Wye and Braborne bound the eastern side of it, as does another range of hills on the opposite side, the tops of which are skirted by the large extent of woodland, called King's and Challock woods, over which, for near two miles, this parish reaches westward almost to the church and village of Molash. It contains about two hundred and thirteen houses, and fourteen hundred inhabitants; the rents of it are about 4500l. per annum. The soil of it is various, the hills above mentioned, as well as the vale between in the northern part of it, are mostly chalk; the rest of it a red cludgy earth, much intermixed with slints, a wet unpleasant soil; the meadows near the river are very sertile and rich. The town of Wye, in which the fine tower of the church is a conspicuous object, stands in the vale on the river Stour, which directs its course throught the parish in its way to Canterbury; over it here is a stone bridge of five arches, built in 1630, in the room of the former wooden one, at the charge of the county; the river is plentifully stowed hereabouts with pikes. The town, which stands low and damp, and from that and its soil an unpleasant situation, is a neat well-built town, consisting of two parallel and two cross streets, the whole unpaved. There is a large green in it, built round, on one side of which is the church and college close to it, and on the other a house, which was once the gaol to the manor-court, but long since disused.

 

There is a tradition, that the town once stood in the valley, which lies between Wye-down and Crundal, where the hamlet of Pett-street now is, about which there are still remaining several deep disused wells, and this place is still called Town borough, where as that in which Wye town stands is called Bewbridge-borough. About half a mile westward from the town is a pleasant seat, called Spring-grove, built by Thomas Brett, esq. of this parish, in 1674, who afterwards resided in it.

 

The south part of the parish below the town, is full of small inclosures, and the soil deeper. In it is a hamlet, called Withersden, formerly accounted a manor, in which there is a well, which was once famous, being called St. Eustace's well, taking its name from Eustachius, abbot of Flai, who is mentioned by Matt. Paris, p. 169, an. 1200, to have been a man of learning and sanctity, and to have come and preached at Wye, and to have blessed a fountain there, so that afterwards its waters were endowed, by such miraculous power, that by it all diseases were cured. Hence the parish extends itself further southward by a narrow slip, between Brook and Braborne, to Nacolt-wood, once reputed likewise a manor, and the tile-kiln of that name.

 

Almost one half of the parish now belongs to Mr. Sawbridge, his estate here being greatly increased by his father's late purchase of the estates of Bond Hopkins, esq. which consist of Wye-court, Harvile, Coldharbour, Wye-downs, and Nacolt, in this parish; they formerly, I conjecture, belonged to Wye college, and afterwards to the Kempes; they were bought in chancery by John Hopkins. esq. commonly called from his rapacity, Vulture Hopkins, who died immensely rich in 1732, and devised his estates so as not to be inherited till after the second generation, then unborn; but the court of chancery set the will aside, and gave his estates to his heir-at-law, from whom they descended to the above-mentioned Bond Hopkins, esq. In the northern part of it stands the stately mansion of Ollantigh, close to the river, which is here beautifully formed by art to ornament it. Adjoining are the park-grounds, containing near six hundred acres, which extend almost as far as Wye town; and the eastern part of the ridge of hills called Wye-downs, the chain of which reaches to the sea-shore at Folkestone. On the summit of the hill, at the eastern extremity of this parish, is Fanscomb-beech, a tree visible to all the country round, to a great distance; near it was formerly a cottage, of the same name, now pulled down, and the lands laid into Mr. Sawbridge's park grounds. Also near it is Fannes wood, now a cottage, and belonging to him likewise. Both these were formerly esteemed manors of good account. The manor of Fannes, alias Fanscombe, formerly belonged to the master of the Savoy, now to St. Thomas's hospital, in Southwark, and that of Fannes wood, formerly the property of the Kempes, to Mr. Sawbridge.

 

The high road from Canterbury to Ashford leads along this parish, about half a mile distance westward from Ollantigh, on higher ground from whence there is a fine view over the vale beneath and the opposite downs, including the mansion and grounds of Ollantigh, and the town and church of Wye, which it leaves in its course at the same distance.

 

It is by some supposed that the Romans had a highway through this parish, which went on towards Lenham, and so to Aylesford; and the several remains of that nation dug up on Tremworth-down, in the adjoining parish of Crundal, on the side of it next to this parish, will serve to strengthen this conjecture. Wye had formerly a market on a Thursday, granted to the abbot of Battell, which was held in the time of king Henry VIII. It was held in Leland's time, who calls it a pratie market townelet; but it has been for some time disused. The two fairs formerly held here on St. Gregories day, March 23, and on All Souls day, Nov. 2, are now held on May 29 and Sept. 3, yearly, for Welch cattle, stock, &c.

 

There were formerly several families of good account resident in this town and parish, the Finch's, lived at Wye-court, descended from those of Sewards, in Linsted, a younger branch of the Finch's, of Eastwell; the Swans, removed hither from Lyd. Francis Swan, esq. resided here, his house being in the town of Wye, at the latter end of Henry VIII.'s reign. They bore for their arms, Azure, a chevron, ermine, between three swans, proper; the Twisdens, one of whom, Roger Twisden, gent. was of Wye, had a lease of the scite of the manor of Wye, and other premises here, from the abbot of Battel, anno 25 Henry VIII. and the Haules, who were antiently written De Aula five Haule, in Latin deeds, likewise resided here for several generations, till they removed to Maidstone in king James the 1st.'s reign, where George Haule, esq. of Maidstone, died in 1652. Elizabeth his daughter, and at length sole heir, married Sir Thomas Taylor, bart. of that parish. They bore for their arms, Or, on a saltier, five mulets of the field.

 

In this parish Major George Somner, brother to the antiquary, was killed in an engagement with the rebels, in 1648.

 

ON THE PLACE where the famous and decisive battle between king Harold and William, duke of Normandy, was fought in 1066, the Conqueror in the next year began to build a noble abbey, named from that event, Battell abbev; in Latin records, Abbatia de Bello; the royal founder endowing it with exemptions and privileges of a very extraordinary nature, and with many manors and good estates; among which was this Royal manor of Wye, with all its appendages, being of the demesnes of his crown, as the grant expresses it, with all liberties and royal customs, as well here as in Dengemarsh, which belonged to the court of Wye, (fn. 1) as freely as he himself held it, or as a king could grant it. Accordingly it is thus entered in the record of Domesday, under the title of land of the church of Battell, or De Labatailge, as there spelt.

 

¶The abbot of St. Martin, of the place of Battle, holds the manor which is called Wi, which in the time of king Edward the Confessor, and now, was and is taxed at seven sulings. The arable land is fifty-two carucates. In demesne there are nine carucates, and one hundred and fourteen villeins, with twenty-two borderers, having seventeen carucates. There is a church, and seven servants, and four mills of twenty-three shillings and eight pence, and one hundred and thirty three acres of meadow, and wood for the pannage of three hundred bogs. In the time of king Edward the Confessor it was worth no more than twenty pounds and one hundred shillings, and six shillings and eight pence; when be received it, one hundred and twenty-five pounds, and ten shilling of the twenty in ore; (fn. 2) now one hundred pounds by tale; and if the abbot bad had sac and soc, it would have been worth twenty pounds more.

 

Ralf de Curbespina holds one denne and one yoke of the land, of the sockmen of this manor, and pays by custom six pence. Adelulf two parts of one suling, and pays twelve pence; and Hugo de Montfort has two yoke, and pays three hundred eels and two shillings; and in the time of king Edward the Confessor, they paid both sac and soc.

 

Of the twenty-two hundreds, there belonged to this manor, sac and soc, and all forfeitures, which of right belonged to the king.

 

For such was the dignity of this manor, which then consisted of seven sulings, or hides of land, that, as the antient book of this abbey expressed it, with its own hundred, it had jurisdiction over twenty-two hundreds and an half, which belonged to its court.

 

WYE is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Bridge.

 

The church, which is dedicated to St. Gregory and St. Martin, stands at the north-west corner of the town of Wye, and was built by cardinal Kempe, when he founded the college of Wye in the reign of king Henry VI. being a handsome, large building, with three isles and as many chancels, and a high spire steeple in the middle, which stood on four lofty arches, supported by a like number of large pillars. The great chancel was made choir fashion, wainscotted, and seated round for the members of the new col lege. The north chancel was appointed for the burying-place of the Kempes, owners of Ollantigh; and in the south chancel the parishioners of the better sort were interred. According to tradition, it stood antiently on a little hill just at the entrance into the town from the river, and which is now called Boltshill, but was removed to this place, where it now stands, by the cardinal. In 1572, the steeple was burnt by lightning, and though it was soon afterwards rebuilt, under the care of Gregory Brett, then churchwarden, who was a great contributor to the expence of it; for which the parishioners granted to him and his heirs, a vault, in the middle isle, for their burial; yet in 1685 it fell, and beat down the greatest part of the middle chancel, almost all the two side ones, and the east end of the body of the church, by which all the monuments in the north chancel, of the Kempes, and Thornhills, of Ollantigh, were wholly destroyed, and the tombstone which lay over the cardinal's father and mother, broken to pieces, whose epitaph is preserved by Weever, p. 274. The fragments of several of the old tombstones lay for several years afterwards seattered about the church-yard, and some statues and parts of monuments lay at the lower end of the church; but they have since been removed and there are now none remaining. After this, the remaining part was inclosed with boards, at the east end, to make it fit for divine service, and the rest lay in ruins till the year 1701, when a brief was procured for the rebuilding of it, and within a year or two afterwards it was begun, the remainder of the old chancels was taken down, and only the present small chancel built up at the east end, in the room of that where the choir was, and a tower steeple on the south side, between the chancel and the body of the church, with battlements, and four pinnacles with gilt vanes on them. The present building is small, but neat. It consists, of three isles, the middle one having an upper story and range of windows. There is only one small chancel, new built, circular at the east end, which does not reach near so far as the old one, which extended several feet further, Mr. Chamberlain Godfrey's monument, in the church yard standing, as is said, where the altar formerly did. Towards building the steeple and chancel, the lady Joanna Thornhill, the prebendaries of Canterbury, and others, were contributors, and Richard Thornhill, esq. gave the pavement of the chancel. In the steeple are eight bells and a clock, which were completed in 1774. The only memorials of any time remaining, are three in the body of the church, viz. two for the Bretts, and one having the figures, in brass, of a woman between her two husbands, and underneath of several children, and at bottom an inscription, beginning John Andrew Justus, Thomas Palmer q; venustus, &c. In the chancel is a memorial for Mrs. Catherine Matchem, daughter of George Finch, gent. of this parish, obt. 1713; a monument over a vault, in which lie Agnes and Mary Johnton; the former died in 1763, the latter in 1767, they were descended from Sir Robert Moyle, of Buckwell; and a monument for lady Joanna Thornhill, daughter of Sir Bevill Granville, second wife of Richard Thornhill, esq. of Ollantigh, commander of a regiment of horse raised at his own charge, obt. 1708.

 

This church, appurtenant to the manor of Wye, was given, with it, to the abbey of Battel at its foundation by the Conqueror, and was appropriated to it before the year 1384, being the 8th year of king Richard II. In which state it continued till the reign of king Henry VI. when cardinal Kempe obtained the king's licence to purchase the advowson of the vicarage of the abbot of Battel, and settled it on his newfounded college here, as will be further mentioned hereafter; but the rectory appropriate of Wye remained part of the possessions of the abbey till its dissolution in the 30th year of king Henry VIII. when it came into the king's hands, where this rectory staid till king Edward VI. in his 5th year, granted it and the manor of the vicarage, together with the two tithebarns and the tithes themselves, all parcel of the late monastery of Battel, to Edward, lord Clinton and Saye, who reconveyed them back again to the king, within a month afterwards.

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-kent/vol7/pp340-368

I am currently trying to revisit all the churches photographed in the first few years of the Kent Churches Project, which means seeing some great and humble buildings, and sometimes surprise that some did not make more of an impact on me first time time round.

 

Why sits in the shadow of the downs, Wye down being nearest, of course, and also beside the Stour. The chuch sits beside the old main road and beside the old college, with the village spread to its south side.

 

All I remembered from my first time was the glass outer porch door, but my overwhelming feeling this time was of space and light in the mighty high nave.

 

-------------------------------------------

 

A very strange church, the result of the collapse of a tall central tower in 1686. The nave of the medieval church survives almost intact, while the chancel has been constructed from the remains of the central crossing of the thirteenth-century church, and a new tower built. The nave is tall and light, and contrasts well with the short narrow apsed chancel that now contains mural tablets to the Sawbridge and Drax families who lived at Olantigh. The reredos is plain early eighteenth-century work and ties in nicely with the dark oak panelling. The choir stalls which stand in the nave were a thanksgiving memorial for the life of President Kennedy. The west window, which represents Christ in Majesty, is set into plain glass and was designed by Gerald Smith in the 1950s. It is an object lesson in how good glass of this period could be.

 

www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Wye

 

------------------------------------------

 

WYE

LIES the next parish eastward from Challock. It is spelt in Domesday, and other antient records, Wy.

 

¶THE PARISH lies in a healthy country, great part of it being in the fertile Ashford vale; the fine pasture down hills of Wye and Braborne bound the eastern side of it, as does another range of hills on the opposite side, the tops of which are skirted by the large extent of woodland, called King's and Challock woods, over which, for near two miles, this parish reaches westward almost to the church and village of Molash. It contains about two hundred and thirteen houses, and fourteen hundred inhabitants; the rents of it are about 4500l. per annum. The soil of it is various, the hills above mentioned, as well as the vale between in the northern part of it, are mostly chalk; the rest of it a red cludgy earth, much intermixed with slints, a wet unpleasant soil; the meadows near the river are very sertile and rich. The town of Wye, in which the fine tower of the church is a conspicuous object, stands in the vale on the river Stour, which directs its course throught the parish in its way to Canterbury; over it here is a stone bridge of five arches, built in 1630, in the room of the former wooden one, at the charge of the county; the river is plentifully stowed hereabouts with pikes. The town, which stands low and damp, and from that and its soil an unpleasant situation, is a neat well-built town, consisting of two parallel and two cross streets, the whole unpaved. There is a large green in it, built round, on one side of which is the church and college close to it, and on the other a house, which was once the gaol to the manor-court, but long since disused.

 

There is a tradition, that the town once stood in the valley, which lies between Wye-down and Crundal, where the hamlet of Pett-street now is, about which there are still remaining several deep disused wells, and this place is still called Town borough, where as that in which Wye town stands is called Bewbridge-borough. About half a mile westward from the town is a pleasant seat, called Spring-grove, built by Thomas Brett, esq. of this parish, in 1674, who afterwards resided in it.

 

The south part of the parish below the town, is full of small inclosures, and the soil deeper. In it is a hamlet, called Withersden, formerly accounted a manor, in which there is a well, which was once famous, being called St. Eustace's well, taking its name from Eustachius, abbot of Flai, who is mentioned by Matt. Paris, p. 169, an. 1200, to have been a man of learning and sanctity, and to have come and preached at Wye, and to have blessed a fountain there, so that afterwards its waters were endowed, by such miraculous power, that by it all diseases were cured. Hence the parish extends itself further southward by a narrow slip, between Brook and Braborne, to Nacolt-wood, once reputed likewise a manor, and the tile-kiln of that name.

 

Almost one half of the parish now belongs to Mr. Sawbridge, his estate here being greatly increased by his father's late purchase of the estates of Bond Hopkins, esq. which consist of Wye-court, Harvile, Coldharbour, Wye-downs, and Nacolt, in this parish; they formerly, I conjecture, belonged to Wye college, and afterwards to the Kempes; they were bought in chancery by John Hopkins. esq. commonly called from his rapacity, Vulture Hopkins, who died immensely rich in 1732, and devised his estates so as not to be inherited till after the second generation, then unborn; but the court of chancery set the will aside, and gave his estates to his heir-at-law, from whom they descended to the above-mentioned Bond Hopkins, esq. In the northern part of it stands the stately mansion of Ollantigh, close to the river, which is here beautifully formed by art to ornament it. Adjoining are the park-grounds, containing near six hundred acres, which extend almost as far as Wye town; and the eastern part of the ridge of hills called Wye-downs, the chain of which reaches to the sea-shore at Folkestone. On the summit of the hill, at the eastern extremity of this parish, is Fanscomb-beech, a tree visible to all the country round, to a great distance; near it was formerly a cottage, of the same name, now pulled down, and the lands laid into Mr. Sawbridge's park grounds. Also near it is Fannes wood, now a cottage, and belonging to him likewise. Both these were formerly esteemed manors of good account. The manor of Fannes, alias Fanscombe, formerly belonged to the master of the Savoy, now to St. Thomas's hospital, in Southwark, and that of Fannes wood, formerly the property of the Kempes, to Mr. Sawbridge.

 

The high road from Canterbury to Ashford leads along this parish, about half a mile distance westward from Ollantigh, on higher ground from whence there is a fine view over the vale beneath and the opposite downs, including the mansion and grounds of Ollantigh, and the town and church of Wye, which it leaves in its course at the same distance.

 

It is by some supposed that the Romans had a highway through this parish, which went on towards Lenham, and so to Aylesford; and the several remains of that nation dug up on Tremworth-down, in the adjoining parish of Crundal, on the side of it next to this parish, will serve to strengthen this conjecture. Wye had formerly a market on a Thursday, granted to the abbot of Battell, which was held in the time of king Henry VIII. It was held in Leland's time, who calls it a pratie market townelet; but it has been for some time disused. The two fairs formerly held here on St. Gregories day, March 23, and on All Souls day, Nov. 2, are now held on May 29 and Sept. 3, yearly, for Welch cattle, stock, &c.

 

There were formerly several families of good account resident in this town and parish, the Finch's, lived at Wye-court, descended from those of Sewards, in Linsted, a younger branch of the Finch's, of Eastwell; the Swans, removed hither from Lyd. Francis Swan, esq. resided here, his house being in the town of Wye, at the latter end of Henry VIII.'s reign. They bore for their arms, Azure, a chevron, ermine, between three swans, proper; the Twisdens, one of whom, Roger Twisden, gent. was of Wye, had a lease of the scite of the manor of Wye, and other premises here, from the abbot of Battel, anno 25 Henry VIII. and the Haules, who were antiently written De Aula five Haule, in Latin deeds, likewise resided here for several generations, till they removed to Maidstone in king James the 1st.'s reign, where George Haule, esq. of Maidstone, died in 1652. Elizabeth his daughter, and at length sole heir, married Sir Thomas Taylor, bart. of that parish. They bore for their arms, Or, on a saltier, five mulets of the field.

 

In this parish Major George Somner, brother to the antiquary, was killed in an engagement with the rebels, in 1648.

 

ON THE PLACE where the famous and decisive battle between king Harold and William, duke of Normandy, was fought in 1066, the Conqueror in the next year began to build a noble abbey, named from that event, Battell abbev; in Latin records, Abbatia de Bello; the royal founder endowing it with exemptions and privileges of a very extraordinary nature, and with many manors and good estates; among which was this Royal manor of Wye, with all its appendages, being of the demesnes of his crown, as the grant expresses it, with all liberties and royal customs, as well here as in Dengemarsh, which belonged to the court of Wye, (fn. 1) as freely as he himself held it, or as a king could grant it. Accordingly it is thus entered in the record of Domesday, under the title of land of the church of Battell, or De Labatailge, as there spelt.

 

¶The abbot of St. Martin, of the place of Battle, holds the manor which is called Wi, which in the time of king Edward the Confessor, and now, was and is taxed at seven sulings. The arable land is fifty-two carucates. In demesne there are nine carucates, and one hundred and fourteen villeins, with twenty-two borderers, having seventeen carucates. There is a church, and seven servants, and four mills of twenty-three shillings and eight pence, and one hundred and thirty three acres of meadow, and wood for the pannage of three hundred bogs. In the time of king Edward the Confessor it was worth no more than twenty pounds and one hundred shillings, and six shillings and eight pence; when be received it, one hundred and twenty-five pounds, and ten shilling of the twenty in ore; (fn. 2) now one hundred pounds by tale; and if the abbot bad had sac and soc, it would have been worth twenty pounds more.

 

Ralf de Curbespina holds one denne and one yoke of the land, of the sockmen of this manor, and pays by custom six pence. Adelulf two parts of one suling, and pays twelve pence; and Hugo de Montfort has two yoke, and pays three hundred eels and two shillings; and in the time of king Edward the Confessor, they paid both sac and soc.

 

Of the twenty-two hundreds, there belonged to this manor, sac and soc, and all forfeitures, which of right belonged to the king.

 

For such was the dignity of this manor, which then consisted of seven sulings, or hides of land, that, as the antient book of this abbey expressed it, with its own hundred, it had jurisdiction over twenty-two hundreds and an half, which belonged to its court.

 

WYE is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Bridge.

 

The church, which is dedicated to St. Gregory and St. Martin, stands at the north-west corner of the town of Wye, and was built by cardinal Kempe, when he founded the college of Wye in the reign of king Henry VI. being a handsome, large building, with three isles and as many chancels, and a high spire steeple in the middle, which stood on four lofty arches, supported by a like number of large pillars. The great chancel was made choir fashion, wainscotted, and seated round for the members of the new col lege. The north chancel was appointed for the burying-place of the Kempes, owners of Ollantigh; and in the south chancel the parishioners of the better sort were interred. According to tradition, it stood antiently on a little hill just at the entrance into the town from the river, and which is now called Boltshill, but was removed to this place, where it now stands, by the cardinal. In 1572, the steeple was burnt by lightning, and though it was soon afterwards rebuilt, under the care of Gregory Brett, then churchwarden, who was a great contributor to the expence of it; for which the parishioners granted to him and his heirs, a vault, in the middle isle, for their burial; yet in 1685 it fell, and beat down the greatest part of the middle chancel, almost all the two side ones, and the east end of the body of the church, by which all the monuments in the north chancel, of the Kempes, and Thornhills, of Ollantigh, were wholly destroyed, and the tombstone which lay over the cardinal's father and mother, broken to pieces, whose epitaph is preserved by Weever, p. 274. The fragments of several of the old tombstones lay for several years afterwards seattered about the church-yard, and some statues and parts of monuments lay at the lower end of the church; but they have since been removed and there are now none remaining. After this, the remaining part was inclosed with boards, at the east end, to make it fit for divine service, and the rest lay in ruins till the year 1701, when a brief was procured for the rebuilding of it, and within a year or two afterwards it was begun, the remainder of the old chancels was taken down, and only the present small chancel built up at the east end, in the room of that where the choir was, and a tower steeple on the south side, between the chancel and the body of the church, with battlements, and four pinnacles with gilt vanes on them. The present building is small, but neat. It consists, of three isles, the middle one having an upper story and range of windows. There is only one small chancel, new built, circular at the east end, which does not reach near so far as the old one, which extended several feet further, Mr. Chamberlain Godfrey's monument, in the church yard standing, as is said, where the altar formerly did. Towards building the steeple and chancel, the lady Joanna Thornhill, the prebendaries of Canterbury, and others, were contributors, and Richard Thornhill, esq. gave the pavement of the chancel. In the steeple are eight bells and a clock, which were completed in 1774. The only memorials of any time remaining, are three in the body of the church, viz. two for the Bretts, and one having the figures, in brass, of a woman between her two husbands, and underneath of several children, and at bottom an inscription, beginning John Andrew Justus, Thomas Palmer q; venustus, &c. In the chancel is a memorial for Mrs. Catherine Matchem, daughter of George Finch, gent. of this parish, obt. 1713; a monument over a vault, in which lie Agnes and Mary Johnton; the former died in 1763, the latter in 1767, they were descended from Sir Robert Moyle, of Buckwell; and a monument for lady Joanna Thornhill, daughter of Sir Bevill Granville, second wife of Richard Thornhill, esq. of Ollantigh, commander of a regiment of horse raised at his own charge, obt. 1708.

 

This church, appurtenant to the manor of Wye, was given, with it, to the abbey of Battel at its foundation by the Conqueror, and was appropriated to it before the year 1384, being the 8th year of king Richard II. In which state it continued till the reign of king Henry VI. when cardinal Kempe obtained the king's licence to purchase the advowson of the vicarage of the abbot of Battel, and settled it on his newfounded college here, as will be further mentioned hereafter; but the rectory appropriate of Wye remained part of the possessions of the abbey till its dissolution in the 30th year of king Henry VIII. when it came into the king's hands, where this rectory staid till king Edward VI. in his 5th year, granted it and the manor of the vicarage, together with the two tithebarns and the tithes themselves, all parcel of the late monastery of Battel, to Edward, lord Clinton and Saye, who reconveyed them back again to the king, within a month afterwards.

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-kent/vol7/pp340-368

I used to pass through Hales every time I drove to see Norwich play, from 1984 onwards. There is a backroad way to Haddiscoe then over the marshes to St Olaves and finally via Herringfleet and Somerleyton to Oulton and home.

 

Hales used to have a hospital, used I think for recuperation. Long since closed now and turned into housing, of course.

 

I used to drive through either full of anticipation of the afternoon's entertainment ahead, or go back home either so happy after seeing them win, or in despondency if we had lost. First time I drove to Carrow Road was in the spring of 1984 was to see City play Watford. City won 6-1, and John Deehan scored four. Not all afternoons were like that.

 

I can't remember the last time I drove to Norwich along the 146, to be honest. I know turning right towards Norwich used to be difficult at times, even more so now.

 

A few years back, I went looking for the church in Hales, and seeing signs pointing to another church ended up in Heckingham.

 

St Margaret is just off the main road, up a quiet lane, and yet the local louts find it in their hearts to come here to smash the windows in the chancel. I can't understand it, and after the visit here I was filled with a mix of anger and sadness. In Kent, Elmstone is a remote church, and yet the local youth there find time to smash the windows there too.

 

Inside St Margaret there are a fine selection of wall paintings and Norman arches and fittings, topped off with a thatched roof too.

 

I tried to get a good shot from distance, but the small churchyard made this difficult, hence the leaning tower in one of the shots.

 

------------------------------------------

 

Comparing Suffolk and Norfolk, as I inevitably must, I am afraid that the southern county rarely comes off best, and descriptions of Norfolk churches lend themselves to superlatives. Take Norman remains, for example - Suffolk has some, if you look for them. It has some nice doorways, at Sapiston and Westhall for example, and a Victorian rebuilding of what may or may not have been a Norman apse at Wissington. But Norfolk has more than seventy fine Norman doorways, and the best are all within a few miles of each other to the east and south-east of Norwich. Best of all are Wroxham and Heckingham, but the most complete Norman church in the county, indeed in all East Anglia, is here at Hales, two miles south of Heckingham, and like that church in the care of the Churches Conservation Trust.

St Margaret is extraordinary because so much of its original Norman fabric survives. Indeed, apart from some 13th century windows punched into the apse (a rare example of transitional vandalism!) you wouldn't know anything had happened here since the 1100s. The blank arcading on the apse is superb, and once went all the way around it. Most famous of all, the north doorway, its six orders so similar to the five at Heckingham that they must be by the same mason.

 

I had read several accounts of visits to this church, but all appeared to have been made in summer. Today, in deepest winter, I found it a stark, rather bleak place, overwhelmed by the noise from the nearby Norwich to Beccles road. Perhaps summer foliage absorbs the sound. Some churches, of course, are at their best in the bleak mid-winter, nearby Heckingham for example. But I longed for summer sunshine on those honeyed walls. A good excuse to go back in the summer.

 

Inside, the air was that of the previous day's sub-zero temperatures - it caught your breath as you went in. The interior has the prescribed simplicity of all CCT churches, a neatness and cleanness that is to be admired and imitated. Ahead is the great St Christopher, which is very faded, but the heads of the two figures are very characterful. The figure in the splay of a south wall window is probably St James with his staff. High above, two angels blowing trumpets are tucked into the eaves above where the rood loft once was.

 

There is a good view of the interior from the gallery, and you can also go into the base of the tower itself. The splays of the round windows still have the impress of the basketwork of 900 years ago - an astounding thought. Also ancient is the wooden shelf inside the aumbry on the north chancel wall.

 

The font is relatively modern, only 500 years old! The snooty little lions reminded me of their cousins at Salthouse, although the smiles here are nowhere near as friendly. There is a famous 17th century font cover associated with it - it has the silhouette of the Rector of the day on its base. It is now in safe keeping at Booton, where I had seen it a few months previously, but had omitted to photograph it. A good excuse to go back there, too.

 

Simon Knott, December 2004

 

www.norfolkchurches.co.uk/hales/hales.htm

 

------------------------------------------

 

HALES, or LODDEN-HALES,

Bigot's Manor.

 

By some accounted to be in Loddon-hundred. There were at the survey several lordships in this town: Roger Bigot, ancestor to the Earls of Nofolk, had a grant of one, which Alestan (a thane of King Harold) was deprived of; to this there belonged one carucate of land, and 40 acres with 9 bordarers, and 2 carucates in demean, one among the tenants, and 5 acres of meadow, paunage for 3 swine, one runcus, one cow, &c. and 10 sheep. There were also 13 freemen belonging to the lord's fold, and under his commendation with 40 acres of land, valued at 20s. but at the survey at 40s. this Alestan put himself under the commendation of Alwin de Tedford, in the reign of King William, and was seised of it at the time when the Conqueror gave it to Roger Bigot. But the hundred never saw any writ or livery, whereby it was granted to Alwin. All Hales was fifteen furlongs long, and 12 perches and six furlongs broad; and pays 8d. gelt. (fn. 1)

 

This lordship extended into Loddon, and was held by the Bigots Earls of Norfolk, and by the grant of Roger Bigot Earl of Norfolk, who died s. p. it came to King Edward I. and was given by King Edward II. to his brother, Thomas de Brotherton Earl of Norfolk, and so came to the Lord Segrave, the Mowbrays, and the Howards Dukes of Norfolk.

 

On the attainder of Thomas Duke of Norfolk, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, it was in the Crown, and King James I. on June 17, ao. 1, bestowed it on Thomas Lord Howard, of Walden, and Henry Howard, afterwards Earl of Northampton, from whom it passed to Thomas Howard Earl of Surry, who in the 21 of the said King, April 1, had license to alien it to Anthony Hobart, Esq. and his heirs; Anthony conveyed it in the same year to James Hobart, his son and heir, who, by deed, dated Sep. 12, ao. 12 of Charles I. sold it to Henry Humberston Esq. son of William Humberston, of Loddon by Joan, his wife, daughter of John Smith, of Lanham in Suffolk, which William was son of John Humberston of Loddon.

 

Henry had 2 wives: by Mary, daughter of Henry Yaxley of Beauthorp, Esq. his 2d wife, he had no issue; by his first wife Anne, daughter of Giles Bladwell, Esq. of Thorlow Magna, in Suffolk, was father of William Humberstone, Esq. who married Mildred, daughter of Charles Walgrave of Stanninghall in Norfolk, Esq. who conveyed this manor to Francis Gardiner, Esq. mayor of Norwich in 1685, (son of Francis Gardiner D. D. vicar of Kendal,) and burgess in parliament for that city, in 1695. Stephen Gardiner, Esq. his son, was recorder of Norwich, and died in 1727. Gardiner, bore, gules a chevron, between three griffins heads erased, or.

 

Ralph Lord Baynard was rewarded with a lordship, of which Toke, a freeman (of Stigand, the Archbishop of Canterbury) of French extraction, was deprived; consisting of 30 acres of land, 3 villains, with a carucate and 3 acres of meadow, &c. and 60 sheep; there were 12 freemen under his protection, and of his fold who held 41 acres of land, with a carucate and a half, and 3 acres of meadow: there were also 2 freemen under his protection only, with 18 acres, of land and half a carucate, also one freeman with 30 acres one, borderer and one carucate, and one acre of meadow; the whole valued at 17s. but at the survey at 30s. (fn. 2)

 

A family who took their name from this town, was early enfeoffed of it, and held it under the Lord Baynard. Roger de Hales and William, his son, were living in the reign of Henry II.—Walter de Hales, in the time of King John; and Sir Roger, son of Walter, in the 34 of Henry III. John, son of Sir Roger, in the 22 of Edward I. which Sir Roger, by deed, sans date, confirmed the exchange of lands (between 2 persons) that were held of his fee in Hales; which shows that it was the custom for lords of manors to confirm the purchases, before the statute of Quia Emplores, &c. and sealed with barry of 12, azure and or, on a canton, gules, a lion passant. Sir John de Hales was living, ao. 20 Edward III. and by Catherine, (after married to Roger de Wellesham,) was father of John de Hales, who died s. p. ao. 43 Edward III. and held this lordship of the barony of Fitz-Walter.

 

In the 17 of Richard II. William, son of Edmund de Redesham of Kirkby Caam, conveyed by fine, to Sir Robert de Willoughby, Sir Miles Stapleton, John, son of Sir John de Norwich, &c. the manor of HalesHall in Loddon, one messuage, 4 carucates of land, 24 acres of meadow, 2 of wood, 20 of marsh, and 100s. rent, in Hales, Loddon, Kirkeby, with the advowson of Hales-Hall chapel, purchased by John de Norwich in reversion; Sir George Felbrigg of Tottington, holding two parts of the manor and lands, in right (as I take it) of the widow of Edmund de Reedisham, then his wife, and Joan, widow of John de Hales, holding a 3d part in dower. (fn. 3)

 

Sir Simon Felbrigg, in the 12th of Henry IV. recovered the manor of Hales-Hall by writ of Novel Disseisin, against John Hotot, and held his first court on Tuesday next after the assumption of the blessed Virgin, and it was after settled on his two feoffees, Sir John Howard, and Sir John de Ingaldesthorp, &c.

 

In the 19th of Henry VI. Nicholas Waleys and John Pewk, were querents in a fine, and Henry Walpole, and Margaret his wife, deforciants of 10l. rent, per ann. in Loddon-Hales manor, conveyed to Pewk; and in the 30th of that King, Hugh Croke, vicar of Hale, was a trustee of Thomas Cleymonds, Esq. deceased, late lord.

 

¶After this, it was possessed by Sir James Hobart, attorney-general, and of the privy council to King Henry VII. of whom, and his ancestors, see in Plumstede Parva, in Blofield hundred. His benefactions and good works, testify his charity and generosity; he resided in his manor-house here, which he built for the most part, (and died here,) with the elegant parish church of the Holy Trinity, at Loddon; also a fair bridge over the Waveney river, between Norfolk and Suffolk, called St. Olaves, or Tooley's bridge, with a good causeway to it; (fn. 4) contributed to the rebuilding of the council chamber in the Guild-Hall of the city of Norwich, and to the noble arched stone roof of the cathedral church of Norwich. Sir Walter Hobart was his son and heir, and lord of this manor; sheriff of Norfolk and Suffolk, ao. 1, Henry VIII. in the 20 of that King, he settled this lordship, with that of Chatgrave, Lille ford's, Tilney in Norfolk, and others in Suffolk, as may be seen in Chatgrave, Loddon hundred, on Walter Hobart, Esq. his son and heir. A pedigree of the eldest branch of the family I have here annexed.

 

James Hobart, Esq. sold it in the 12 of Charles I. to Henry Humberstone, Esq. (as is mentioned in Bigot's manor above,) whose son William, is said to have conveyed part of it to Francis Gardiner, Esq. and part to the Lady Dionysia Williamson, relict of Sir Thomas Williamson, Baronet, of Markham Magna in Nottinghamshire, daughter and heir of William Hales, Esq. son of Richard Hales, Esq. who was lady of this manor of Hales-Hall, in 1666, and resided here; she gave 4000l. to the rebuilding the church of St. Dunstan in the East, of London; to the rebuilding of St. Paul's cathedral, 2001l. and was a benefactress to the rebuilding of the church of St. Mary Le Bow, in London, giving 2000l. and at her death, left Hales-Hall to John Hoskins, Esq. her nephew, (who was lord in 1687,) with the impropriated rectory of Loddon.

 

The abbot of St. Edmund of Bury, had a lordship which Frodo held of them at the survey; 9 men, 2 of them were socmen, and 7 more, belonged to the abbot's lordship, and were under his protection only, held 64 acres in King Edward's reign, when there were 2 borderers and 5 freemen, with 6 acres; this was valued with Loddon. (fn. 5)

 

Frodo, also, held of the abbot one acre, of which 2 freemen were deprived; valued at 4d. (fn. 6) Of this Frodo, &c. see in Loddon, which manor extended also into this town.

 

Godric, the King's steward, held one acre and a half, out of which a freeman was ejected: this was granted to Godric on the forfeiture of Ralph Earl of Norfolk, who had a moiety (as lord) of this freeman. (fn. 7)

 

The tenths were 2l. 10s. Deducted 10s. Temporalities of St. Olaves 8d. and of Langley abbey 24s.

 

The Church of Hales was a rectory, but granted in the 4th of Henry I. by Ralph de Chedgrave, and Emma his wife, to William, prior of St. Olaves, probably founder of that priory; and a vicar was appointed on its appropriation to that convent. It was dedicated to St. Margaret, and it appears by the register of Langley abbey, that the prior and convent of St. Olaves at Hering flete in Suffolk were rectors of Hale, and had the tithe of 235 acres of land in Hale parish belonging to Langley abbey, in exchange for 235 acres of land in Loddon and Heckingham, belonging to the priory of St. Olaves. (fn. 8)

 

In the reign of Edward I. the rectory was valued at 11 marks, and the vicarage at 40s. The vicar had then a manse with 30 acres of land. Peter-pence 18d. Carvage 12d. 0b.

 

Vicars.

 

In 1317, Adam de Blofield was instituted vicar, presented by the prior of St. Olaves, and nominated by the Bishop of Norwich.

 

1326, John de Carlethorp. Ditto.

 

1333, Roger de Petengraunt. Ditto.

 

1337, Adam de Bergh. Ditto.

 

1349, John Le Neve. Ditto.

 

1366, William Warren. Ditto.

 

1366, John Stalworth. Ditto.

 

1377, Peter de Wynch. Ditto.

 

1382, Roger Calf. Ditto.

 

1382, John Wandeford. Ditto.

 

1391, Simon Bangot. Ditto.

 

1391, John Bradock. Ditto.

 

1395, John Smith. Ditto.

 

1397, Henry Welden. Ditto.

 

1397, Thomas Coyte. Ditto.

 

1398, Richard Bytering. Ditto.

 

1403, Richard Bangoot. Ditto.

 

1403, John Ousnell Ditto.

 

1404, Walter Jakes. Ditto.

 

1413, William Norwich. Ditto.

 

1417, Thomas Smith. Ditto.

 

In 1458, Hugh Croke occurs vicar.

 

In 1503, I find it served by a stipendiary curate, for 5l. per ann. and he then returned 45 communicants, John Hill being the impropriator; and in 1742, the heirs of Mr. Peter Lawes.

 

¶Here was also a chapel at Hales-Hall, belonging to the manor of the family of De Hales, dedicated to St. Andrew: this, with the hall, stood in the parish of Loddon, and in 1287, it is said to stand in the manor of Wrantishagh, belonging to Sir Roger de Hales, in Loddon parish, and leave was then granted to him, that he might institute the chaplains of it, by the concession and grant of the abbot of Langley, rectors of the church of Loddon, and of John de Feryby, official to William, Bishop of Norwich, the said Sir Roger and his heirs granting to the chaplains all the obventions and oblations, with the small tithes of his court, and that the servant, of him and his heirs having their habitations in the parish of Loddon, shall pay to the mother church of Loddon, the oblations accustomed, and shall receive the sacraments there. (fn. 9) And the chaplains administering in the said chapel, were to pay yearly to the said mother church, in acknowledgment of subjection, all the oblations and obventions given on Easter-day, and St. Andrew's day, and two wax candles of a pound of wax, on Trinity Sunday, and to give security to the vicars of Loddon, for the time being, that they should not say any anniversaries, trentals, or any masses for any parishioners of Loddon.

 

In 1331, Sir John de Hales was patron, and in 1349; and John, son and heir of Sir John, in 1361.

 

Alexander de Hales, styled Doctor Irrefragabilis, who died in 1245, was born here. Hales, Halesworth, Halestead, Alesham and Aylesford, so called, as near to some river or water.

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/topographical-hist-norfolk/vol8...

I used to pass through Hales every time I drove to see Norwich play, from 1984 onwards. There is a backroad way to Haddiscoe then over the marshes to St Olaves and finally via Herringfleet and Somerleyton to Oulton and home.

 

Hales used to have a hospital, used I think for recuperation. Long since closed now and turned into housing, of course.

 

I used to drive through either full of anticipation of the afternoon's entertainment ahead, or go back home either so happy after seeing them win, or in despondency if we had lost. First time I drove to Carrow Road was in the spring of 1984 was to see City play Watford. City won 6-1, and John Deehan scored four. Not all afternoons were like that.

 

I can't remember the last time I drove to Norwich along the 146, to be honest. I know turning right towards Norwich used to be difficult at times, even more so now.

 

A few years back, I went looking for the church in Hales, and seeing signs pointing to another church ended up in Heckingham.

 

St Margaret is just off the main road, up a quiet lane, and yet the local louts find it in their hearts to come here to smash the windows in the chancel. I can't understand it, and after the visit here I was filled with a mix of anger and sadness. In Kent, Elmstone is a remote church, and yet the local youth there find time to smash the windows there too.

 

Inside St Margaret there are a fine selection of wall paintings and Norman arches and fittings, topped off with a thatched roof too.

 

I tried to get a good shot from distance, but the small churchyard made this difficult, hence the leaning tower in one of the shots.

 

------------------------------------------

 

Comparing Suffolk and Norfolk, as I inevitably must, I am afraid that the southern county rarely comes off best, and descriptions of Norfolk churches lend themselves to superlatives. Take Norman remains, for example - Suffolk has some, if you look for them. It has some nice doorways, at Sapiston and Westhall for example, and a Victorian rebuilding of what may or may not have been a Norman apse at Wissington. But Norfolk has more than seventy fine Norman doorways, and the best are all within a few miles of each other to the east and south-east of Norwich. Best of all are Wroxham and Heckingham, but the most complete Norman church in the county, indeed in all East Anglia, is here at Hales, two miles south of Heckingham, and like that church in the care of the Churches Conservation Trust.

St Margaret is extraordinary because so much of its original Norman fabric survives. Indeed, apart from some 13th century windows punched into the apse (a rare example of transitional vandalism!) you wouldn't know anything had happened here since the 1100s. The blank arcading on the apse is superb, and once went all the way around it. Most famous of all, the north doorway, its six orders so similar to the five at Heckingham that they must be by the same mason.

 

I had read several accounts of visits to this church, but all appeared to have been made in summer. Today, in deepest winter, I found it a stark, rather bleak place, overwhelmed by the noise from the nearby Norwich to Beccles road. Perhaps summer foliage absorbs the sound. Some churches, of course, are at their best in the bleak mid-winter, nearby Heckingham for example. But I longed for summer sunshine on those honeyed walls. A good excuse to go back in the summer.

 

Inside, the air was that of the previous day's sub-zero temperatures - it caught your breath as you went in. The interior has the prescribed simplicity of all CCT churches, a neatness and cleanness that is to be admired and imitated. Ahead is the great St Christopher, which is very faded, but the heads of the two figures are very characterful. The figure in the splay of a south wall window is probably St James with his staff. High above, two angels blowing trumpets are tucked into the eaves above where the rood loft once was.

 

There is a good view of the interior from the gallery, and you can also go into the base of the tower itself. The splays of the round windows still have the impress of the basketwork of 900 years ago - an astounding thought. Also ancient is the wooden shelf inside the aumbry on the north chancel wall.

 

The font is relatively modern, only 500 years old! The snooty little lions reminded me of their cousins at Salthouse, although the smiles here are nowhere near as friendly. There is a famous 17th century font cover associated with it - it has the silhouette of the Rector of the day on its base. It is now in safe keeping at Booton, where I had seen it a few months previously, but had omitted to photograph it. A good excuse to go back there, too.

 

Simon Knott, December 2004

 

www.norfolkchurches.co.uk/hales/hales.htm

 

------------------------------------------

 

HALES, or LODDEN-HALES,

Bigot's Manor.

 

By some accounted to be in Loddon-hundred. There were at the survey several lordships in this town: Roger Bigot, ancestor to the Earls of Nofolk, had a grant of one, which Alestan (a thane of King Harold) was deprived of; to this there belonged one carucate of land, and 40 acres with 9 bordarers, and 2 carucates in demean, one among the tenants, and 5 acres of meadow, paunage for 3 swine, one runcus, one cow, &c. and 10 sheep. There were also 13 freemen belonging to the lord's fold, and under his commendation with 40 acres of land, valued at 20s. but at the survey at 40s. this Alestan put himself under the commendation of Alwin de Tedford, in the reign of King William, and was seised of it at the time when the Conqueror gave it to Roger Bigot. But the hundred never saw any writ or livery, whereby it was granted to Alwin. All Hales was fifteen furlongs long, and 12 perches and six furlongs broad; and pays 8d. gelt. (fn. 1)

 

This lordship extended into Loddon, and was held by the Bigots Earls of Norfolk, and by the grant of Roger Bigot Earl of Norfolk, who died s. p. it came to King Edward I. and was given by King Edward II. to his brother, Thomas de Brotherton Earl of Norfolk, and so came to the Lord Segrave, the Mowbrays, and the Howards Dukes of Norfolk.

 

On the attainder of Thomas Duke of Norfolk, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, it was in the Crown, and King James I. on June 17, ao. 1, bestowed it on Thomas Lord Howard, of Walden, and Henry Howard, afterwards Earl of Northampton, from whom it passed to Thomas Howard Earl of Surry, who in the 21 of the said King, April 1, had license to alien it to Anthony Hobart, Esq. and his heirs; Anthony conveyed it in the same year to James Hobart, his son and heir, who, by deed, dated Sep. 12, ao. 12 of Charles I. sold it to Henry Humberston Esq. son of William Humberston, of Loddon by Joan, his wife, daughter of John Smith, of Lanham in Suffolk, which William was son of John Humberston of Loddon.

 

Henry had 2 wives: by Mary, daughter of Henry Yaxley of Beauthorp, Esq. his 2d wife, he had no issue; by his first wife Anne, daughter of Giles Bladwell, Esq. of Thorlow Magna, in Suffolk, was father of William Humberstone, Esq. who married Mildred, daughter of Charles Walgrave of Stanninghall in Norfolk, Esq. who conveyed this manor to Francis Gardiner, Esq. mayor of Norwich in 1685, (son of Francis Gardiner D. D. vicar of Kendal,) and burgess in parliament for that city, in 1695. Stephen Gardiner, Esq. his son, was recorder of Norwich, and died in 1727. Gardiner, bore, gules a chevron, between three griffins heads erased, or.

 

Ralph Lord Baynard was rewarded with a lordship, of which Toke, a freeman (of Stigand, the Archbishop of Canterbury) of French extraction, was deprived; consisting of 30 acres of land, 3 villains, with a carucate and 3 acres of meadow, &c. and 60 sheep; there were 12 freemen under his protection, and of his fold who held 41 acres of land, with a carucate and a half, and 3 acres of meadow: there were also 2 freemen under his protection only, with 18 acres, of land and half a carucate, also one freeman with 30 acres one, borderer and one carucate, and one acre of meadow; the whole valued at 17s. but at the survey at 30s. (fn. 2)

 

A family who took their name from this town, was early enfeoffed of it, and held it under the Lord Baynard. Roger de Hales and William, his son, were living in the reign of Henry II.—Walter de Hales, in the time of King John; and Sir Roger, son of Walter, in the 34 of Henry III. John, son of Sir Roger, in the 22 of Edward I. which Sir Roger, by deed, sans date, confirmed the exchange of lands (between 2 persons) that were held of his fee in Hales; which shows that it was the custom for lords of manors to confirm the purchases, before the statute of Quia Emplores, &c. and sealed with barry of 12, azure and or, on a canton, gules, a lion passant. Sir John de Hales was living, ao. 20 Edward III. and by Catherine, (after married to Roger de Wellesham,) was father of John de Hales, who died s. p. ao. 43 Edward III. and held this lordship of the barony of Fitz-Walter.

 

In the 17 of Richard II. William, son of Edmund de Redesham of Kirkby Caam, conveyed by fine, to Sir Robert de Willoughby, Sir Miles Stapleton, John, son of Sir John de Norwich, &c. the manor of HalesHall in Loddon, one messuage, 4 carucates of land, 24 acres of meadow, 2 of wood, 20 of marsh, and 100s. rent, in Hales, Loddon, Kirkeby, with the advowson of Hales-Hall chapel, purchased by John de Norwich in reversion; Sir George Felbrigg of Tottington, holding two parts of the manor and lands, in right (as I take it) of the widow of Edmund de Reedisham, then his wife, and Joan, widow of John de Hales, holding a 3d part in dower. (fn. 3)

 

Sir Simon Felbrigg, in the 12th of Henry IV. recovered the manor of Hales-Hall by writ of Novel Disseisin, against John Hotot, and held his first court on Tuesday next after the assumption of the blessed Virgin, and it was after settled on his two feoffees, Sir John Howard, and Sir John de Ingaldesthorp, &c.

 

In the 19th of Henry VI. Nicholas Waleys and John Pewk, were querents in a fine, and Henry Walpole, and Margaret his wife, deforciants of 10l. rent, per ann. in Loddon-Hales manor, conveyed to Pewk; and in the 30th of that King, Hugh Croke, vicar of Hale, was a trustee of Thomas Cleymonds, Esq. deceased, late lord.

 

¶After this, it was possessed by Sir James Hobart, attorney-general, and of the privy council to King Henry VII. of whom, and his ancestors, see in Plumstede Parva, in Blofield hundred. His benefactions and good works, testify his charity and generosity; he resided in his manor-house here, which he built for the most part, (and died here,) with the elegant parish church of the Holy Trinity, at Loddon; also a fair bridge over the Waveney river, between Norfolk and Suffolk, called St. Olaves, or Tooley's bridge, with a good causeway to it; (fn. 4) contributed to the rebuilding of the council chamber in the Guild-Hall of the city of Norwich, and to the noble arched stone roof of the cathedral church of Norwich. Sir Walter Hobart was his son and heir, and lord of this manor; sheriff of Norfolk and Suffolk, ao. 1, Henry VIII. in the 20 of that King, he settled this lordship, with that of Chatgrave, Lille ford's, Tilney in Norfolk, and others in Suffolk, as may be seen in Chatgrave, Loddon hundred, on Walter Hobart, Esq. his son and heir. A pedigree of the eldest branch of the family I have here annexed.

 

James Hobart, Esq. sold it in the 12 of Charles I. to Henry Humberstone, Esq. (as is mentioned in Bigot's manor above,) whose son William, is said to have conveyed part of it to Francis Gardiner, Esq. and part to the Lady Dionysia Williamson, relict of Sir Thomas Williamson, Baronet, of Markham Magna in Nottinghamshire, daughter and heir of William Hales, Esq. son of Richard Hales, Esq. who was lady of this manor of Hales-Hall, in 1666, and resided here; she gave 4000l. to the rebuilding the church of St. Dunstan in the East, of London; to the rebuilding of St. Paul's cathedral, 2001l. and was a benefactress to the rebuilding of the church of St. Mary Le Bow, in London, giving 2000l. and at her death, left Hales-Hall to John Hoskins, Esq. her nephew, (who was lord in 1687,) with the impropriated rectory of Loddon.

 

The abbot of St. Edmund of Bury, had a lordship which Frodo held of them at the survey; 9 men, 2 of them were socmen, and 7 more, belonged to the abbot's lordship, and were under his protection only, held 64 acres in King Edward's reign, when there were 2 borderers and 5 freemen, with 6 acres; this was valued with Loddon. (fn. 5)

 

Frodo, also, held of the abbot one acre, of which 2 freemen were deprived; valued at 4d. (fn. 6) Of this Frodo, &c. see in Loddon, which manor extended also into this town.

 

Godric, the King's steward, held one acre and a half, out of which a freeman was ejected: this was granted to Godric on the forfeiture of Ralph Earl of Norfolk, who had a moiety (as lord) of this freeman. (fn. 7)

 

The tenths were 2l. 10s. Deducted 10s. Temporalities of St. Olaves 8d. and of Langley abbey 24s.

 

The Church of Hales was a rectory, but granted in the 4th of Henry I. by Ralph de Chedgrave, and Emma his wife, to William, prior of St. Olaves, probably founder of that priory; and a vicar was appointed on its appropriation to that convent. It was dedicated to St. Margaret, and it appears by the register of Langley abbey, that the prior and convent of St. Olaves at Hering flete in Suffolk were rectors of Hale, and had the tithe of 235 acres of land in Hale parish belonging to Langley abbey, in exchange for 235 acres of land in Loddon and Heckingham, belonging to the priory of St. Olaves. (fn. 8)

 

In the reign of Edward I. the rectory was valued at 11 marks, and the vicarage at 40s. The vicar had then a manse with 30 acres of land. Peter-pence 18d. Carvage 12d. 0b.

 

Vicars.

 

In 1317, Adam de Blofield was instituted vicar, presented by the prior of St. Olaves, and nominated by the Bishop of Norwich.

 

1326, John de Carlethorp. Ditto.

 

1333, Roger de Petengraunt. Ditto.

 

1337, Adam de Bergh. Ditto.

 

1349, John Le Neve. Ditto.

 

1366, William Warren. Ditto.

 

1366, John Stalworth. Ditto.

 

1377, Peter de Wynch. Ditto.

 

1382, Roger Calf. Ditto.

 

1382, John Wandeford. Ditto.

 

1391, Simon Bangot. Ditto.

 

1391, John Bradock. Ditto.

 

1395, John Smith. Ditto.

 

1397, Henry Welden. Ditto.

 

1397, Thomas Coyte. Ditto.

 

1398, Richard Bytering. Ditto.

 

1403, Richard Bangoot. Ditto.

 

1403, John Ousnell Ditto.

 

1404, Walter Jakes. Ditto.

 

1413, William Norwich. Ditto.

 

1417, Thomas Smith. Ditto.

 

In 1458, Hugh Croke occurs vicar.

 

In 1503, I find it served by a stipendiary curate, for 5l. per ann. and he then returned 45 communicants, John Hill being the impropriator; and in 1742, the heirs of Mr. Peter Lawes.

 

¶Here was also a chapel at Hales-Hall, belonging to the manor of the family of De Hales, dedicated to St. Andrew: this, with the hall, stood in the parish of Loddon, and in 1287, it is said to stand in the manor of Wrantishagh, belonging to Sir Roger de Hales, in Loddon parish, and leave was then granted to him, that he might institute the chaplains of it, by the concession and grant of the abbot of Langley, rectors of the church of Loddon, and of John de Feryby, official to William, Bishop of Norwich, the said Sir Roger and his heirs granting to the chaplains all the obventions and oblations, with the small tithes of his court, and that the servant, of him and his heirs having their habitations in the parish of Loddon, shall pay to the mother church of Loddon, the oblations accustomed, and shall receive the sacraments there. (fn. 9) And the chaplains administering in the said chapel, were to pay yearly to the said mother church, in acknowledgment of subjection, all the oblations and obventions given on Easter-day, and St. Andrew's day, and two wax candles of a pound of wax, on Trinity Sunday, and to give security to the vicars of Loddon, for the time being, that they should not say any anniversaries, trentals, or any masses for any parishioners of Loddon.

 

In 1331, Sir John de Hales was patron, and in 1349; and John, son and heir of Sir John, in 1361.

 

Alexander de Hales, styled Doctor Irrefragabilis, who died in 1245, was born here. Hales, Halesworth, Halestead, Alesham and Aylesford, so called, as near to some river or water.

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/topographical-hist-norfolk/vol8...

A round towered church with a spire; somewhat unusual I imagine. Someone might like to correct me on that and I find its quite common.

 

I had seen shots of St George taken from the air by my Flickr friend, John Fielding. I decided to see if any of the churches he had snapped were near to my route to Cambridge, and found they were.

 

I did not think of going to Shimpling this day, but as this and Frenze are under the care of the Church Conservation Trust, an information board at the latter said I should go to the former if I enjoyed Frenze.

 

So I did.

 

Driving through Diss, trying to program the sat nav, easy as the main road through the town, under the railway bridge was a solid line of traffic, I only hoped that Shimpling would not be back the way I had just come.

 

The route took me through some of the narrow streets of the town centre, a place to go back to to explore I think, but my route took me out north through the modern houses then into the flat countryside of south Norfolk.

 

I arrived in Shimpling, a few houses and farms; where could the church be, and just as I was about to stop and annoy the lorry behind, I saw the information board at the start of the farm track leading to St George.

 

------------------------------------------

 

.

St George is a familiar sight to drivers between Ipswich and Norwich, off in the fields near Dickleburgh. A substantial, landmark church; and yet it is redundant. Coming from Suffolk, where the local Anglican Diocese goes out of its way to avoid redundancies if it can, Shimpling's redundancy seemed careless. This is not a tiny village, and if drawn into a group with Dickleburgh could surely have sustained a monthly service or so. Probably, if it arose nowadays, St George would not be declared redundant. From the point of view of the building, of course, it was both a blessing and a mercy, as the church is now in the capable, caring hands of the Churches Conservation Trust.

 

The setting of St George just to the south of its village is superb. A cart track leads up from a farm, difficult of access at the best of times, but suicide on this day when the snow still lay deep in the ruts, the mud sucking at our boots. If we had attempted to drive it then I guess the tractor would be getting to us about now. The keyholders both live about a mile off, but the walk was worth it.

 

St George is perhaps more typical of Suffolk than Norfolk, a rural church made opulent by the wealth of the later years of the 15th century. Then came the font, the benches, the roof, the surviving scattering of medieval angel glass. Otherwise, the feeling is of the much-maligned Victorians, who loved churches and wanted this one restored to its former glory. Geoffery Millard, rector through those times, has his memorial in the chancel, but all around it is the building that he would recognise instantly if he stepped into it today.

 

Amber light filled the space beneath the tower, and I was glad I was here, in this silent frozen space, this touchstone to the long generations. Some curiosities: under the benches at the west end, there is a trap door. Inside, some of the original medieval tiles have survived the Victorians; they merely built a wooden platform over them. Then, a wholly secular brass inscription of 1591 to Anthony le Grys is set in the mddle of the nave - but the inlay is the wrong size and shape, and so it must come originally from somewhere else. A small hole in the north wall of the sanctuary is surely too tiny to have been an aumbry. And yet, it is set back to take a door, and appears once to have had some sort of wooden tympanum set over it. Could it have been a squint from a shrine chapel? Or even from an anchorite's cell?

 

Incidentally, another curious thing: There is a Shimpling in Suffolk as well, and the churches of both are dedicated to St George, an otherwise unusual East Anglian dedication. The reason appears to be that the enthusiastic 18th century antiquarians, ruttling around in the Diocesan records at Norwich, accidentally applied the dedication of the Suffolk church to both, dedications having fallen out of use for two hundred years or more.

 

Simon Knott, March 2005

  

www.norfolkchurches.co.uk/shimpling/shimpling.htm

 

-----------------------------------------

 

SHIMPLING

¶Is bounded on the east by Dickleburgh, on the west by Burston, on the south by Thelton, and on the north by Gissing. It is a rectory appendant to the manor, and being discharged of first fruits and tenths, is capable of augmentation. The rectory hath a house and 16 acres of glebe: Norwich Domesday says, that Richard de Boyland was then patron, that the rector had a house and xv. acres of land; that the procurations were then vi.s. viii.d. and the synodals xxii.d.

 

Rectors.

 

1305, 6 kal. Dec. Robert de Boswyle, accolite, William de Schympling.

 

1328, 7 kal. Mar. Will. de Schymplyng, accolite. Roger, son of Will. de Shympling.

 

1338, 12 July, John de Cherchegate, priest to St. George's church at Shympling. Ditto.

 

1349, Robert Sampson, priest. Emma, late wife of Roger de Schymplyng.

 

1361, 13 Sept. Ric. de Halle, priest. Ditto.

 

1362, 21 Sept. Peter Scott. Ditto.

 

1386, 19 April, Tho. de Welles. Thomas de Glemesford.

 

1393, 28 March, Welles changed this with John Mulle for Mildeston rectory, in Sarum diocese. Roger de Ellingham and Joan Hardegrey.

 

1396, 29 March, Mulle exchanged with Will. Stone for Ludenham in Kent. Ditto.

 

1401, 29 Aug. John Drury, priest, who resigned Watton vicarage in exchange for this. Roger de Elyngham.

 

1408, 7 Aug. John Cok of Illington, priest.

 

1421, 8 Octob. Reginald Pepper of Berton Bendysch, priest, on the resignation of Cok. Ditto.

 

1421, 6 March, Tho. Young, on Pepper's resignation. William, son of Roger de Elyngham of Elyngham, near Bungey.

 

1422, 22 March, Rich. Senyngwell, on Young's resignation. Ditto.

 

1430, 20 Sept. Walter Skyde of Disse. Lapse.

 

1432, 23 Octob. Thomas Wright. Lapse.

 

1434, 14 Dec. John Grygby. William Elyngham of Elyngham by Bungey.

 

1437, 12 Octob. Richard de Schymplyng, on Grygby's resignation. William Elyngham of Elyngham by Bungey.

 

1449, 31 Jan. Robert Caade, resigned to John Beest, in exchange for Winterburn Basset rectory, in Wiltshire. Ditto.

 

1451, 21 April, Thomas Messinger, on Beest's death. Ditto.

 

1504, John Odiham.

 

1507, 4 Aug. James Galle. (fn. 1) Lapse.

 

1525, 19 Octob. Thomas Warde. Thomas Shardelowe, Esq.

 

1536, 26 March, John Lanman, (fn. 2) on Ward's death. John Aldham, lord of the moiety of Elyngham's manor here, by turns.

 

1563, 26 June, Thomas Oxford, alias Farmor, A. M. Stephen Shardelowe, Gent.

 

1572, 24 Nov. William Luffkyn, on Oxford's resignation. Stephen Shardelowe, and John Aldham, patrons.

 

1609, 1 Aug. Nicholas Colte. (fn. 3) John Sherdelowe.

 

1642, Jeremiah Gowen. (fn. 4) Adrian Mott of Braintree, and Margaret Carter of Stratford in Essex.

 

1649, Thomas Cole, (fn. 5) clerk, A. M. John and James Mott, Gent.

 

1684, 9 Dec. John Rand. John Buxton, Esq. united to Burston.

 

1706, 1 Jan. John Calver, on Rand's death. Robert Buxton, Esq. united to Gissing.

 

1729, The Rev. Mr. Thomas Buxton, the present rector, [1736,] united to Thorp-Parva.

 

The Church hath a steeple, round at bottom, and octangular at top, and four small bells; it is leaded, though the chancel is thatched, and the north porch tiled. It is dedicated to St. George, (fn. 6) whose effigies, with his shield, viz. arg. a plain cross gul. is to be seen in a south window of the chancel, and seems to be as old as the building, which in all appearance was in the beginning of the thirteenth century, (though the steeple is much older,) for then William de Shimplyng was lord and patron, whose arms still remain under this effigies, viz. arg. a chief gul. a fess between six de-lises sab.

 

Here was a Gild in honour of the same saint, (fn. 7) and a Chapel dedicated to St. Mary, which stood in Shimpling Hithe, of which there are no remains. This had some endowment, for Girrard the Prior, (fn. 8) and his Chapter at Norwich, with the Bishop's consent, granted to Richard the chaplain of Shimpling, 7 roods of meadow in Roreker in Shimpling, &c. in perpetual alms, paying yearly 5d. at the high altar in the cathedral, to which John Pierson of Gissing, and others, were witnesses, (fn. 9) so that this must be before 1201, for in that year Gerrard the Prior died; this was down before the general dissolution, for I meet with no grant of it at that time.

 

St. George and the dragon, and the arms of Shimpling, are carved on the font; the chancel is covered with large grave-stones, all disrobed of their brasses; several of them were laid over the rectors, as appear from the chalice and wafer upon them, that being the symbol of a priest; the rest that had arms, I take to be laid over the Shimplings and the Shardelows. The arms of

 

Shardelow are, arg. a chevron gul. between three croslets fitchee, az. Crest, a plume of feathers arg.

 

On a small stone towards the west end of the church:

 

Richard Lesingham, ob. 5° die. Octob. Anno Dni. 1705, Ætatis suæ - - - -

 

Here let him rest, Memory stile him dear, 'Till our Redeemer Shall in the clouds appear.

 

On a marble near the pulpit: arms of

 

Potter, sab. a fess between three mullets arg. Crest, an elephant's head erased arg. gutte de sang.

 

Here in expectation of a joyful resurrection, resteth the body of Cicill Potter, Gent. who dyed Jan. the 29th, 1693, aged 70 years.

 

In a window:

 

Gloria in Errelsis Deo.

 

Here are twelve penny loaves given to as many poor people, by the rector and church-wardens, on the first Sunday in every month, there being land tied for it.

 

In the Confessor's time Torbert held this manor of Stigand, it being then worth 20s. of whom the part in Gissing was also held by another freeman, and was then of 5s. value, but was risen to ten in the Conqueror's time, though Shimpling continued at the same value. This, as one manor, was given by the Conqueror to Roger Bygod, who gave it to Robert de Vais, (de Vallibus, or Vaus,) it being then a mile and a quarter long, and a mile broad. (fn. 10) The whole paid 5d. Geld. There was then a church and 10 acres glebe, valued at 12d. and several other manors extended hither, of which I shall afterwards treat in their proper places. The Vaises held it of Bygod's successors, till 1237, in which year Oliver de Vallibus (fn. 11) granted it to Richard de Rupella, (afterwards called Rokele,) settling it on him and his heirs by fine, (fn. 12) to be held of him by knight's service; he died in 1287, at which time he held it of John de Vallibus. This Richard granted it to be held of him and his heirs by Richard de Boyland, in trust for Ralph Carbonell, (fn. 13) who held it of Maud, wife of William de Roos, who was daughter and coheir of John de Vaux. This Ralph conveyed it to

 

Roger de Schymplyng, to be held by knight's service of Richard Rokeles's heirs; and in 1280, the said Roger (fn. 14) was lord, the manor being settled upon him, and Emma his wife, in tail; after their deaths it came to William de Schympling, (fn. 15) their son, who held it of Richard Rokell at half a fee, he of the Earl-Marshal, and he of the King in capite. This William married Margaret de Tacolveston, (fn. 16) on whom the manor was settled for life in 1303, it being then held of William de Roos and Maud his wife, and Petronell de Vaux, her sister. This William purchased a great part of the town of divers persons. He had a son named Roger, who presented in 1328, and held it till about 1345, when he was dead, and Emma his wife had it, at whose death it fell divisible between their three daughters: (fn. 17)

 

Isabel, married to John Kirtling, to whom this manor was allotted;

 

Joan, who had Moring-Thorp manor, and

 

Katerine, married to William de Ellyngham, who had Dalling manor in Flordon. Isabell had issue, Roger and Emma, who left none, so that this manor and advowson descended to Roger, son of William de Elyngham and Katerine his wife, daughter of Roger de Schymplyng, which said Roger de Elyngham held it in 1401, by half a fee, of John Copledick, Knt. who held it of the Lady Roos, she of Thomas Mowbray, and he in capite of the King. How it went from the Elynghams I do not know, but imagine it must be by female heiresses; for in 1521, Humphry Wyngfield had a moiety of it, and John Aldham had another part; he died in 1558, and was buried in this chancel, leaving his part to John his son, (fn. 18) who held it jointly with Bonaventure Shardelowe, in 1571; Mr. Aldham had a fourth part of the manor, and a third turn, and Mr. Shardelow three parts and two turns. The patronage and manor was in Mr. John Motte, who was buried October 7, 1640, and John Motte, and his brother James, presented in 1649. It looks as if the Mottes had Aldham's part, and after purchased Shardelow's of Mr. John Shardelowe, who held it till 1611, together with Dalling manor in Florden, which was held of Shimpling manor. He conveyed it to Edmund Skipwith, Esq. and Antony Barry, Gent. and they to Thomas Wales, and John Basely, Gent. who conveyed it to the Motts, from whom, I am apt to think, it came to the Proctors, for John Buxton of St. Margaret's in South Elmham had it, in right of his wife, who was kinswoman and heiress of Mr. Proctor, rector of Gissing; after this it came to Robert Buxton, Esq. who died and left it to Elizabeth his wife, who is since dead, and Elizabeth Buxton, their only daughter, a minor, is now [1736] lady and patroness.

 

The Leet belongs to the manor, and the fine is at the lord's will.

 

As to the other parts of this village, (fn. 19) they being parts of the manors of Titshall, Fersfield, and Brisingham, it is sufficient to observe, that they went with those manors, except that part held by Fulco, of which the register called Pinchbek, fo. 182, says that Fulco or Fulcher held of the Abbot in Simplingaham and Gissing, 70 acres, and 4 borderers, being infeoffed by Abbot Baldwin in the time of the Conqueror; this, about Edward the First's time, was in Sir John Shardelowe, a judge in that King's reign, in whose family it continued till 1630, when it was sold to Mr. Mott. The seat of the Shardelows is now called the Place, and is the estate of the Duke of Grafton; and (as I am informed) formerly belonged to Isaac Pennington, (fn. 20) alderman of London, one of those rebels that sat as judges at the King's trial, for which villainy he was knighted. He lived to the Restoration, when, according to his deserts, his estates were seized as forfeited to King Charles II. who gave this to the Duke of Grafton; upon the forfeiture, the copyhold on the different manors were also seized, which is the reason that the quitrents to Gissing, Titshall, &c. are so large, they being made so when the Lords regranted them.

 

¶I have seen an ancient deed made by John Camerarius, or Chambers, of Shimpling, to Richard de Kentwell, clerk, and Alice his wife, and their heirs, of 3 acres of land in this town, witnessed by Sir Gerard de Wachesam, Knt. and others, which is remarkable, for its never having any seal, and its being dated at Shimpling in the churchyard, on Sunday next before Pentecost, anno 1294. (fn. 21) This shews us that seals (as Lambard justly observes (fn. 22) ) were not in common use at this time; and, therefore, to make a conveyance the most solemn and publick that could be, the deed was read to the parish, after service, in the churchyard, that all might know it, and be witnesses, if occasion required. The Saxons used no seals, only signed the mark of a cross to their instruments, to which the scribe affixed their names, by which they had a double meaning; first, to denote their being Christians, and then, as such, to confirm it by the symbol of their faith. The first sealed charter we meet with is that of Edward the Confessor to Westminster abbey, which use he brought with him from Normandy, where he was brought up; and for that reason it was approved of by the Norman Conqueror; though sealing grew into common use by degrees, the King at first only using it, then some of the nobility, after that the nobles in general, who engraved on their seals their own effigies covered with their coat armour; after this, the gentlemen followed, and used the arms of their family for difference sake. But about the time of Edward III. seals became of general use, and they that had no coat armour, sealed with their own device, as flowers, birds, beasts, or whatever they chiefly delighted in, as a dog, a hare, &c.; and nothing was more common than an invention or rebus for their names, as a swan and a tun for Swanton, a hare for Hare, &c.; and because very few of the commonality could write, (all learning at that time being among the religious only,) the person's name was usually circumscribed on his seal, so that at once they set both their name and seal, which was so sacred a thing in those days, that one man never used another's seal, without its being particularly taken notice of in the instrument sealed, and for this reason, every one carried their seal about them, either on their rings, or on a roundel fastened sometimes to their purse, sometimes to their girdle; nay, oftentimes where a man's seal was not much known, he procured some one in publick office to affix theirs, for the greater confirmation: thus Hugh de Schalers, (or Scales,) a younger son of the Lord Scales's family, parson of Harlton in Cambridgeshire, upon his agreeing to pay the Prior of Bernewell 30s. for the two third parts of the tithe corn due to the said Prior out of several lands in his parish, because his seal was known to few, he procured the archdeacon's official to put his seal of office, for more ample confirmation: (fn. 23) and when this was not done, nothing was more common than for a publick notary to affix his mark, which being registered at their admission into their office, was of as publick a nature as any seal could be, and of as great sanction to any instrument, those officers being always sworn to the true execution of their office, and to affix no other mark, than that they had registered, to any instrument; so their testimony could be as well known by their mark, as by their name; for which reason they were called Publick Notaries, Nota in Latin signifying a mark, and Publick because their mark was publickly registered, and their office was to be publick to all that had any occasion for them to strengthen their evidence. There are few of these officers among us now, and such as we have, have so far varied from the original of their name, that they use no mark at all, only add N. P. for Notary Publick, at the end of their names. Thus also the use of seals is now laid aside, I mean the true use of them, as the distinguishing mark of one family from another, and of one branch from another; and was it enjomed by publick authority, that every one in office should, upon his admission, choose and appropriate to himself a particular seal, and register a copy of it publickly, and should never use any other but that alone, under a severe penalty, I am apt to think, in a short time we should see the good effects of it; (fn. 24) for a great number of those vagabonds that infest our country under pretence of certificates signed by proper magistrates, (whose hands are oftener counterfeit than real,) would be detected; for though it is easy for an ill-designing person to forge a handwriting, it is directly the contrary as to a seal; and though it is in the power of all to know the magistrates names, it is but very few of such sort of people that could know their seals; so that it would in a great measure (if not altogether) put a stop to that vile practice; and it would be easy for every magistrate to know the seals of all others, if they were entered properly, engraved, and published: and it might be of service, if all the office seals in England (or in those foreign parts that any way concern the realm) were engraved and published, for then it would be in every one's power to know whether the seals of office affixed to all passes, &c. were genuine or no; for it is well known that numbers travel this nation, under pretence of passes from our consuls and agents abroad, and sometimes even deceive careful magistrates with the pretended hands and seals of such, it being sometimes impossible for them to know the truth, which by this means would evidently appear. And thus much, and a great deal more, may be said to encourage the true and original use of that wise Conqueror's practice, who can scarce be said to put any thing into use but what he found was of advantage to his government.

 

This rectory is in Norfolk archdeaconry, and Redenhall deanery: it had 69 communicants in 1603, and hath now [1736] 23 houses, and about 130 inhabitants. The town is valued at 300l. per annum. (fn. 25) Here are 3 acres of town land, one piece is a small pightle abutting on the land of Robert Leman, Esq. another piece is called Susan's pightle, lying in Gissing, and was given by a woman of this name, to repair the church porch, (as I am informed,) the other piece lies in Diss Heywode, and pays an annual rent of 5s.

 

The Commons are Kett's Fen, which contains about 4 acres; Pound Green, 1 acre; Hall Green, 4 acres; the Bottom, 6 acres; and the Lower Green, 6 acres.

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/topographical-hist-norfolk/vol1...

OK, so you have looked at the grassy mounds and want to hear something more interesting, and history is coming to your rescue!

 

Records for this property can be traced back to the 14th century. There is a charter from King David II confirming a grant to Walter Stewart of Dalswinton, from John Randolph, Earl of Moray, of the lands of Corsock, however this was probably only what was referred to as a "sheepskin" transaction, as the lands at this time appear to have been owned by the Lindsays. Subsequently there was a precept granted by James Lindsay of Forgirth, infefting John Neilson and his wife Isabel Gordon in the lands of Corsock, which is dated in 1439; and a charter of confirmation, dated 20th July 1444, to Fergus Neilson, son and heir to John Neilson of Corsock.

 

Corsock appears to have remained in the hands of the Nielsons (usually referred to these days as the 'Nelsons of Corsock' for some reasons) until that most turbulent of centuries in Scotland, the 17th.

 

The last laird, John Neilson of Little Corsock (also sometimes called Robert) was cruelly persecuted for his attachment to the Presbyterian Church. About I662 he was fined £600 and suffered ongoing persecution. He was at length forced to leave his home, following which troops were quartered at his house; his wife and children turned out and his tenants ruined from being compelled to furnish the troops with provisions. That he then took up arms was the natural result.

 

Upon his inevitable capture, he was taken prisoner, and after excruciating sufferings from the application of "The Boot" (a diabolical instrument of torture, of the same character as "The Scavenger's Daughter" in England) he was tried and sentenced to be hanged at Edinburgh on the 14th of December, 1666, with the usual forfeiture of lands.

 

Immediately after his execution, Maxwell of Milton, parish of Urr, with thirty men, proceeded to his house, to which his family had returned, and under cover of legal authority they were again turned out and everything seized that was fancied. At this black period it was usual to try and save lands by transfer, and in this case, in February, 1666, Gilbert, the uncle of John Neilson, had sasine.

I am currently trying to revisit all the churches photographed in the first few years of the Kent Churches Project, which means seeing some great and humble buildings, and sometimes surprise that some did not make more of an impact on me first time time round.

 

Why sits in the shadow of the downs, Wye down being nearest, of course, and also beside the Stour. The chuch sits beside the old main road and beside the old college, with the village spread to its south side.

 

All I remembered from my first time was the glass outer porch door, but my overwhelming feeling this time was of space and light in the mighty high nave.

 

-------------------------------------------

 

A very strange church, the result of the collapse of a tall central tower in 1686. The nave of the medieval church survives almost intact, while the chancel has been constructed from the remains of the central crossing of the thirteenth-century church, and a new tower built. The nave is tall and light, and contrasts well with the short narrow apsed chancel that now contains mural tablets to the Sawbridge and Drax families who lived at Olantigh. The reredos is plain early eighteenth-century work and ties in nicely with the dark oak panelling. The choir stalls which stand in the nave were a thanksgiving memorial for the life of President Kennedy. The west window, which represents Christ in Majesty, is set into plain glass and was designed by Gerald Smith in the 1950s. It is an object lesson in how good glass of this period could be.

 

www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Wye

 

------------------------------------------

 

WYE

LIES the next parish eastward from Challock. It is spelt in Domesday, and other antient records, Wy.

 

¶THE PARISH lies in a healthy country, great part of it being in the fertile Ashford vale; the fine pasture down hills of Wye and Braborne bound the eastern side of it, as does another range of hills on the opposite side, the tops of which are skirted by the large extent of woodland, called King's and Challock woods, over which, for near two miles, this parish reaches westward almost to the church and village of Molash. It contains about two hundred and thirteen houses, and fourteen hundred inhabitants; the rents of it are about 4500l. per annum. The soil of it is various, the hills above mentioned, as well as the vale between in the northern part of it, are mostly chalk; the rest of it a red cludgy earth, much intermixed with slints, a wet unpleasant soil; the meadows near the river are very sertile and rich. The town of Wye, in which the fine tower of the church is a conspicuous object, stands in the vale on the river Stour, which directs its course throught the parish in its way to Canterbury; over it here is a stone bridge of five arches, built in 1630, in the room of the former wooden one, at the charge of the county; the river is plentifully stowed hereabouts with pikes. The town, which stands low and damp, and from that and its soil an unpleasant situation, is a neat well-built town, consisting of two parallel and two cross streets, the whole unpaved. There is a large green in it, built round, on one side of which is the church and college close to it, and on the other a house, which was once the gaol to the manor-court, but long since disused.

 

There is a tradition, that the town once stood in the valley, which lies between Wye-down and Crundal, where the hamlet of Pett-street now is, about which there are still remaining several deep disused wells, and this place is still called Town borough, where as that in which Wye town stands is called Bewbridge-borough. About half a mile westward from the town is a pleasant seat, called Spring-grove, built by Thomas Brett, esq. of this parish, in 1674, who afterwards resided in it.

 

The south part of the parish below the town, is full of small inclosures, and the soil deeper. In it is a hamlet, called Withersden, formerly accounted a manor, in which there is a well, which was once famous, being called St. Eustace's well, taking its name from Eustachius, abbot of Flai, who is mentioned by Matt. Paris, p. 169, an. 1200, to have been a man of learning and sanctity, and to have come and preached at Wye, and to have blessed a fountain there, so that afterwards its waters were endowed, by such miraculous power, that by it all diseases were cured. Hence the parish extends itself further southward by a narrow slip, between Brook and Braborne, to Nacolt-wood, once reputed likewise a manor, and the tile-kiln of that name.

 

Almost one half of the parish now belongs to Mr. Sawbridge, his estate here being greatly increased by his father's late purchase of the estates of Bond Hopkins, esq. which consist of Wye-court, Harvile, Coldharbour, Wye-downs, and Nacolt, in this parish; they formerly, I conjecture, belonged to Wye college, and afterwards to the Kempes; they were bought in chancery by John Hopkins. esq. commonly called from his rapacity, Vulture Hopkins, who died immensely rich in 1732, and devised his estates so as not to be inherited till after the second generation, then unborn; but the court of chancery set the will aside, and gave his estates to his heir-at-law, from whom they descended to the above-mentioned Bond Hopkins, esq. In the northern part of it stands the stately mansion of Ollantigh, close to the river, which is here beautifully formed by art to ornament it. Adjoining are the park-grounds, containing near six hundred acres, which extend almost as far as Wye town; and the eastern part of the ridge of hills called Wye-downs, the chain of which reaches to the sea-shore at Folkestone. On the summit of the hill, at the eastern extremity of this parish, is Fanscomb-beech, a tree visible to all the country round, to a great distance; near it was formerly a cottage, of the same name, now pulled down, and the lands laid into Mr. Sawbridge's park grounds. Also near it is Fannes wood, now a cottage, and belonging to him likewise. Both these were formerly esteemed manors of good account. The manor of Fannes, alias Fanscombe, formerly belonged to the master of the Savoy, now to St. Thomas's hospital, in Southwark, and that of Fannes wood, formerly the property of the Kempes, to Mr. Sawbridge.

 

The high road from Canterbury to Ashford leads along this parish, about half a mile distance westward from Ollantigh, on higher ground from whence there is a fine view over the vale beneath and the opposite downs, including the mansion and grounds of Ollantigh, and the town and church of Wye, which it leaves in its course at the same distance.

 

It is by some supposed that the Romans had a highway through this parish, which went on towards Lenham, and so to Aylesford; and the several remains of that nation dug up on Tremworth-down, in the adjoining parish of Crundal, on the side of it next to this parish, will serve to strengthen this conjecture. Wye had formerly a market on a Thursday, granted to the abbot of Battell, which was held in the time of king Henry VIII. It was held in Leland's time, who calls it a pratie market townelet; but it has been for some time disused. The two fairs formerly held here on St. Gregories day, March 23, and on All Souls day, Nov. 2, are now held on May 29 and Sept. 3, yearly, for Welch cattle, stock, &c.

 

There were formerly several families of good account resident in this town and parish, the Finch's, lived at Wye-court, descended from those of Sewards, in Linsted, a younger branch of the Finch's, of Eastwell; the Swans, removed hither from Lyd. Francis Swan, esq. resided here, his house being in the town of Wye, at the latter end of Henry VIII.'s reign. They bore for their arms, Azure, a chevron, ermine, between three swans, proper; the Twisdens, one of whom, Roger Twisden, gent. was of Wye, had a lease of the scite of the manor of Wye, and other premises here, from the abbot of Battel, anno 25 Henry VIII. and the Haules, who were antiently written De Aula five Haule, in Latin deeds, likewise resided here for several generations, till they removed to Maidstone in king James the 1st.'s reign, where George Haule, esq. of Maidstone, died in 1652. Elizabeth his daughter, and at length sole heir, married Sir Thomas Taylor, bart. of that parish. They bore for their arms, Or, on a saltier, five mulets of the field.

 

In this parish Major George Somner, brother to the antiquary, was killed in an engagement with the rebels, in 1648.

 

ON THE PLACE where the famous and decisive battle between king Harold and William, duke of Normandy, was fought in 1066, the Conqueror in the next year began to build a noble abbey, named from that event, Battell abbev; in Latin records, Abbatia de Bello; the royal founder endowing it with exemptions and privileges of a very extraordinary nature, and with many manors and good estates; among which was this Royal manor of Wye, with all its appendages, being of the demesnes of his crown, as the grant expresses it, with all liberties and royal customs, as well here as in Dengemarsh, which belonged to the court of Wye, (fn. 1) as freely as he himself held it, or as a king could grant it. Accordingly it is thus entered in the record of Domesday, under the title of land of the church of Battell, or De Labatailge, as there spelt.

 

¶The abbot of St. Martin, of the place of Battle, holds the manor which is called Wi, which in the time of king Edward the Confessor, and now, was and is taxed at seven sulings. The arable land is fifty-two carucates. In demesne there are nine carucates, and one hundred and fourteen villeins, with twenty-two borderers, having seventeen carucates. There is a church, and seven servants, and four mills of twenty-three shillings and eight pence, and one hundred and thirty three acres of meadow, and wood for the pannage of three hundred bogs. In the time of king Edward the Confessor it was worth no more than twenty pounds and one hundred shillings, and six shillings and eight pence; when be received it, one hundred and twenty-five pounds, and ten shilling of the twenty in ore; (fn. 2) now one hundred pounds by tale; and if the abbot bad had sac and soc, it would have been worth twenty pounds more.

 

Ralf de Curbespina holds one denne and one yoke of the land, of the sockmen of this manor, and pays by custom six pence. Adelulf two parts of one suling, and pays twelve pence; and Hugo de Montfort has two yoke, and pays three hundred eels and two shillings; and in the time of king Edward the Confessor, they paid both sac and soc.

 

Of the twenty-two hundreds, there belonged to this manor, sac and soc, and all forfeitures, which of right belonged to the king.

 

For such was the dignity of this manor, which then consisted of seven sulings, or hides of land, that, as the antient book of this abbey expressed it, with its own hundred, it had jurisdiction over twenty-two hundreds and an half, which belonged to its court.

 

WYE is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Bridge.

 

The church, which is dedicated to St. Gregory and St. Martin, stands at the north-west corner of the town of Wye, and was built by cardinal Kempe, when he founded the college of Wye in the reign of king Henry VI. being a handsome, large building, with three isles and as many chancels, and a high spire steeple in the middle, which stood on four lofty arches, supported by a like number of large pillars. The great chancel was made choir fashion, wainscotted, and seated round for the members of the new col lege. The north chancel was appointed for the burying-place of the Kempes, owners of Ollantigh; and in the south chancel the parishioners of the better sort were interred. According to tradition, it stood antiently on a little hill just at the entrance into the town from the river, and which is now called Boltshill, but was removed to this place, where it now stands, by the cardinal. In 1572, the steeple was burnt by lightning, and though it was soon afterwards rebuilt, under the care of Gregory Brett, then churchwarden, who was a great contributor to the expence of it; for which the parishioners granted to him and his heirs, a vault, in the middle isle, for their burial; yet in 1685 it fell, and beat down the greatest part of the middle chancel, almost all the two side ones, and the east end of the body of the church, by which all the monuments in the north chancel, of the Kempes, and Thornhills, of Ollantigh, were wholly destroyed, and the tombstone which lay over the cardinal's father and mother, broken to pieces, whose epitaph is preserved by Weever, p. 274. The fragments of several of the old tombstones lay for several years afterwards seattered about the church-yard, and some statues and parts of monuments lay at the lower end of the church; but they have since been removed and there are now none remaining. After this, the remaining part was inclosed with boards, at the east end, to make it fit for divine service, and the rest lay in ruins till the year 1701, when a brief was procured for the rebuilding of it, and within a year or two afterwards it was begun, the remainder of the old chancels was taken down, and only the present small chancel built up at the east end, in the room of that where the choir was, and a tower steeple on the south side, between the chancel and the body of the church, with battlements, and four pinnacles with gilt vanes on them. The present building is small, but neat. It consists, of three isles, the middle one having an upper story and range of windows. There is only one small chancel, new built, circular at the east end, which does not reach near so far as the old one, which extended several feet further, Mr. Chamberlain Godfrey's monument, in the church yard standing, as is said, where the altar formerly did. Towards building the steeple and chancel, the lady Joanna Thornhill, the prebendaries of Canterbury, and others, were contributors, and Richard Thornhill, esq. gave the pavement of the chancel. In the steeple are eight bells and a clock, which were completed in 1774. The only memorials of any time remaining, are three in the body of the church, viz. two for the Bretts, and one having the figures, in brass, of a woman between her two husbands, and underneath of several children, and at bottom an inscription, beginning John Andrew Justus, Thomas Palmer q; venustus, &c. In the chancel is a memorial for Mrs. Catherine Matchem, daughter of George Finch, gent. of this parish, obt. 1713; a monument over a vault, in which lie Agnes and Mary Johnton; the former died in 1763, the latter in 1767, they were descended from Sir Robert Moyle, of Buckwell; and a monument for lady Joanna Thornhill, daughter of Sir Bevill Granville, second wife of Richard Thornhill, esq. of Ollantigh, commander of a regiment of horse raised at his own charge, obt. 1708.

 

This church, appurtenant to the manor of Wye, was given, with it, to the abbey of Battel at its foundation by the Conqueror, and was appropriated to it before the year 1384, being the 8th year of king Richard II. In which state it continued till the reign of king Henry VI. when cardinal Kempe obtained the king's licence to purchase the advowson of the vicarage of the abbot of Battel, and settled it on his newfounded college here, as will be further mentioned hereafter; but the rectory appropriate of Wye remained part of the possessions of the abbey till its dissolution in the 30th year of king Henry VIII. when it came into the king's hands, where this rectory staid till king Edward VI. in his 5th year, granted it and the manor of the vicarage, together with the two tithebarns and the tithes themselves, all parcel of the late monastery of Battel, to Edward, lord Clinton and Saye, who reconveyed them back again to the king, within a month afterwards.

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-kent/vol7/pp340-368

I used to pass through Hales every time I drove to see Norwich play, from 1984 onwards. There is a backroad way to Haddiscoe then over the marshes to St Olaves and finally via Herringfleet and Somerleyton to Oulton and home.

 

Hales used to have a hospital, used I think for recuperation. Long since closed now and turned into housing, of course.

 

I used to drive through either full of anticipation of the afternoon's entertainment ahead, or go back home either so happy after seeing them win, or in despondency if we had lost. First time I drove to Carrow Road was in the spring of 1984 was to see City play Watford. City won 6-1, and John Deehan scored four. Not all afternoons were like that.

 

I can't remember the last time I drove to Norwich along the 146, to be honest. I know turning right towards Norwich used to be difficult at times, even more so now.

 

A few years back, I went looking for the church in Hales, and seeing signs pointing to another church ended up in Heckingham.

 

St Margaret is just off the main road, up a quiet lane, and yet the local louts find it in their hearts to come here to smash the windows in the chancel. I can't understand it, and after the visit here I was filled with a mix of anger and sadness. In Kent, Elmstone is a remote church, and yet the local youth there find time to smash the windows there too.

 

Inside St Margaret there are a fine selection of wall paintings and Norman arches and fittings, topped off with a thatched roof too.

 

I tried to get a good shot from distance, but the small churchyard made this difficult, hence the leaning tower in one of the shots.

 

------------------------------------------

 

Comparing Suffolk and Norfolk, as I inevitably must, I am afraid that the southern county rarely comes off best, and descriptions of Norfolk churches lend themselves to superlatives. Take Norman remains, for example - Suffolk has some, if you look for them. It has some nice doorways, at Sapiston and Westhall for example, and a Victorian rebuilding of what may or may not have been a Norman apse at Wissington. But Norfolk has more than seventy fine Norman doorways, and the best are all within a few miles of each other to the east and south-east of Norwich. Best of all are Wroxham and Heckingham, but the most complete Norman church in the county, indeed in all East Anglia, is here at Hales, two miles south of Heckingham, and like that church in the care of the Churches Conservation Trust.

St Margaret is extraordinary because so much of its original Norman fabric survives. Indeed, apart from some 13th century windows punched into the apse (a rare example of transitional vandalism!) you wouldn't know anything had happened here since the 1100s. The blank arcading on the apse is superb, and once went all the way around it. Most famous of all, the north doorway, its six orders so similar to the five at Heckingham that they must be by the same mason.

 

I had read several accounts of visits to this church, but all appeared to have been made in summer. Today, in deepest winter, I found it a stark, rather bleak place, overwhelmed by the noise from the nearby Norwich to Beccles road. Perhaps summer foliage absorbs the sound. Some churches, of course, are at their best in the bleak mid-winter, nearby Heckingham for example. But I longed for summer sunshine on those honeyed walls. A good excuse to go back in the summer.

 

Inside, the air was that of the previous day's sub-zero temperatures - it caught your breath as you went in. The interior has the prescribed simplicity of all CCT churches, a neatness and cleanness that is to be admired and imitated. Ahead is the great St Christopher, which is very faded, but the heads of the two figures are very characterful. The figure in the splay of a south wall window is probably St James with his staff. High above, two angels blowing trumpets are tucked into the eaves above where the rood loft once was.

 

There is a good view of the interior from the gallery, and you can also go into the base of the tower itself. The splays of the round windows still have the impress of the basketwork of 900 years ago - an astounding thought. Also ancient is the wooden shelf inside the aumbry on the north chancel wall.

 

The font is relatively modern, only 500 years old! The snooty little lions reminded me of their cousins at Salthouse, although the smiles here are nowhere near as friendly. There is a famous 17th century font cover associated with it - it has the silhouette of the Rector of the day on its base. It is now in safe keeping at Booton, where I had seen it a few months previously, but had omitted to photograph it. A good excuse to go back there, too.

 

Simon Knott, December 2004

 

www.norfolkchurches.co.uk/hales/hales.htm

 

------------------------------------------

 

HALES, or LODDEN-HALES,

Bigot's Manor.

 

By some accounted to be in Loddon-hundred. There were at the survey several lordships in this town: Roger Bigot, ancestor to the Earls of Nofolk, had a grant of one, which Alestan (a thane of King Harold) was deprived of; to this there belonged one carucate of land, and 40 acres with 9 bordarers, and 2 carucates in demean, one among the tenants, and 5 acres of meadow, paunage for 3 swine, one runcus, one cow, &c. and 10 sheep. There were also 13 freemen belonging to the lord's fold, and under his commendation with 40 acres of land, valued at 20s. but at the survey at 40s. this Alestan put himself under the commendation of Alwin de Tedford, in the reign of King William, and was seised of it at the time when the Conqueror gave it to Roger Bigot. But the hundred never saw any writ or livery, whereby it was granted to Alwin. All Hales was fifteen furlongs long, and 12 perches and six furlongs broad; and pays 8d. gelt. (fn. 1)

 

This lordship extended into Loddon, and was held by the Bigots Earls of Norfolk, and by the grant of Roger Bigot Earl of Norfolk, who died s. p. it came to King Edward I. and was given by King Edward II. to his brother, Thomas de Brotherton Earl of Norfolk, and so came to the Lord Segrave, the Mowbrays, and the Howards Dukes of Norfolk.

 

On the attainder of Thomas Duke of Norfolk, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, it was in the Crown, and King James I. on June 17, ao. 1, bestowed it on Thomas Lord Howard, of Walden, and Henry Howard, afterwards Earl of Northampton, from whom it passed to Thomas Howard Earl of Surry, who in the 21 of the said King, April 1, had license to alien it to Anthony Hobart, Esq. and his heirs; Anthony conveyed it in the same year to James Hobart, his son and heir, who, by deed, dated Sep. 12, ao. 12 of Charles I. sold it to Henry Humberston Esq. son of William Humberston, of Loddon by Joan, his wife, daughter of John Smith, of Lanham in Suffolk, which William was son of John Humberston of Loddon.

 

Henry had 2 wives: by Mary, daughter of Henry Yaxley of Beauthorp, Esq. his 2d wife, he had no issue; by his first wife Anne, daughter of Giles Bladwell, Esq. of Thorlow Magna, in Suffolk, was father of William Humberstone, Esq. who married Mildred, daughter of Charles Walgrave of Stanninghall in Norfolk, Esq. who conveyed this manor to Francis Gardiner, Esq. mayor of Norwich in 1685, (son of Francis Gardiner D. D. vicar of Kendal,) and burgess in parliament for that city, in 1695. Stephen Gardiner, Esq. his son, was recorder of Norwich, and died in 1727. Gardiner, bore, gules a chevron, between three griffins heads erased, or.

 

Ralph Lord Baynard was rewarded with a lordship, of which Toke, a freeman (of Stigand, the Archbishop of Canterbury) of French extraction, was deprived; consisting of 30 acres of land, 3 villains, with a carucate and 3 acres of meadow, &c. and 60 sheep; there were 12 freemen under his protection, and of his fold who held 41 acres of land, with a carucate and a half, and 3 acres of meadow: there were also 2 freemen under his protection only, with 18 acres, of land and half a carucate, also one freeman with 30 acres one, borderer and one carucate, and one acre of meadow; the whole valued at 17s. but at the survey at 30s. (fn. 2)

 

A family who took their name from this town, was early enfeoffed of it, and held it under the Lord Baynard. Roger de Hales and William, his son, were living in the reign of Henry II.—Walter de Hales, in the time of King John; and Sir Roger, son of Walter, in the 34 of Henry III. John, son of Sir Roger, in the 22 of Edward I. which Sir Roger, by deed, sans date, confirmed the exchange of lands (between 2 persons) that were held of his fee in Hales; which shows that it was the custom for lords of manors to confirm the purchases, before the statute of Quia Emplores, &c. and sealed with barry of 12, azure and or, on a canton, gules, a lion passant. Sir John de Hales was living, ao. 20 Edward III. and by Catherine, (after married to Roger de Wellesham,) was father of John de Hales, who died s. p. ao. 43 Edward III. and held this lordship of the barony of Fitz-Walter.

 

In the 17 of Richard II. William, son of Edmund de Redesham of Kirkby Caam, conveyed by fine, to Sir Robert de Willoughby, Sir Miles Stapleton, John, son of Sir John de Norwich, &c. the manor of HalesHall in Loddon, one messuage, 4 carucates of land, 24 acres of meadow, 2 of wood, 20 of marsh, and 100s. rent, in Hales, Loddon, Kirkeby, with the advowson of Hales-Hall chapel, purchased by John de Norwich in reversion; Sir George Felbrigg of Tottington, holding two parts of the manor and lands, in right (as I take it) of the widow of Edmund de Reedisham, then his wife, and Joan, widow of John de Hales, holding a 3d part in dower. (fn. 3)

 

Sir Simon Felbrigg, in the 12th of Henry IV. recovered the manor of Hales-Hall by writ of Novel Disseisin, against John Hotot, and held his first court on Tuesday next after the assumption of the blessed Virgin, and it was after settled on his two feoffees, Sir John Howard, and Sir John de Ingaldesthorp, &c.

 

In the 19th of Henry VI. Nicholas Waleys and John Pewk, were querents in a fine, and Henry Walpole, and Margaret his wife, deforciants of 10l. rent, per ann. in Loddon-Hales manor, conveyed to Pewk; and in the 30th of that King, Hugh Croke, vicar of Hale, was a trustee of Thomas Cleymonds, Esq. deceased, late lord.

 

¶After this, it was possessed by Sir James Hobart, attorney-general, and of the privy council to King Henry VII. of whom, and his ancestors, see in Plumstede Parva, in Blofield hundred. His benefactions and good works, testify his charity and generosity; he resided in his manor-house here, which he built for the most part, (and died here,) with the elegant parish church of the Holy Trinity, at Loddon; also a fair bridge over the Waveney river, between Norfolk and Suffolk, called St. Olaves, or Tooley's bridge, with a good causeway to it; (fn. 4) contributed to the rebuilding of the council chamber in the Guild-Hall of the city of Norwich, and to the noble arched stone roof of the cathedral church of Norwich. Sir Walter Hobart was his son and heir, and lord of this manor; sheriff of Norfolk and Suffolk, ao. 1, Henry VIII. in the 20 of that King, he settled this lordship, with that of Chatgrave, Lille ford's, Tilney in Norfolk, and others in Suffolk, as may be seen in Chatgrave, Loddon hundred, on Walter Hobart, Esq. his son and heir. A pedigree of the eldest branch of the family I have here annexed.

 

James Hobart, Esq. sold it in the 12 of Charles I. to Henry Humberstone, Esq. (as is mentioned in Bigot's manor above,) whose son William, is said to have conveyed part of it to Francis Gardiner, Esq. and part to the Lady Dionysia Williamson, relict of Sir Thomas Williamson, Baronet, of Markham Magna in Nottinghamshire, daughter and heir of William Hales, Esq. son of Richard Hales, Esq. who was lady of this manor of Hales-Hall, in 1666, and resided here; she gave 4000l. to the rebuilding the church of St. Dunstan in the East, of London; to the rebuilding of St. Paul's cathedral, 2001l. and was a benefactress to the rebuilding of the church of St. Mary Le Bow, in London, giving 2000l. and at her death, left Hales-Hall to John Hoskins, Esq. her nephew, (who was lord in 1687,) with the impropriated rectory of Loddon.

 

The abbot of St. Edmund of Bury, had a lordship which Frodo held of them at the survey; 9 men, 2 of them were socmen, and 7 more, belonged to the abbot's lordship, and were under his protection only, held 64 acres in King Edward's reign, when there were 2 borderers and 5 freemen, with 6 acres; this was valued with Loddon. (fn. 5)

 

Frodo, also, held of the abbot one acre, of which 2 freemen were deprived; valued at 4d. (fn. 6) Of this Frodo, &c. see in Loddon, which manor extended also into this town.

 

Godric, the King's steward, held one acre and a half, out of which a freeman was ejected: this was granted to Godric on the forfeiture of Ralph Earl of Norfolk, who had a moiety (as lord) of this freeman. (fn. 7)

 

The tenths were 2l. 10s. Deducted 10s. Temporalities of St. Olaves 8d. and of Langley abbey 24s.

 

The Church of Hales was a rectory, but granted in the 4th of Henry I. by Ralph de Chedgrave, and Emma his wife, to William, prior of St. Olaves, probably founder of that priory; and a vicar was appointed on its appropriation to that convent. It was dedicated to St. Margaret, and it appears by the register of Langley abbey, that the prior and convent of St. Olaves at Hering flete in Suffolk were rectors of Hale, and had the tithe of 235 acres of land in Hale parish belonging to Langley abbey, in exchange for 235 acres of land in Loddon and Heckingham, belonging to the priory of St. Olaves. (fn. 8)

 

In the reign of Edward I. the rectory was valued at 11 marks, and the vicarage at 40s. The vicar had then a manse with 30 acres of land. Peter-pence 18d. Carvage 12d. 0b.

 

Vicars.

 

In 1317, Adam de Blofield was instituted vicar, presented by the prior of St. Olaves, and nominated by the Bishop of Norwich.

 

1326, John de Carlethorp. Ditto.

 

1333, Roger de Petengraunt. Ditto.

 

1337, Adam de Bergh. Ditto.

 

1349, John Le Neve. Ditto.

 

1366, William Warren. Ditto.

 

1366, John Stalworth. Ditto.

 

1377, Peter de Wynch. Ditto.

 

1382, Roger Calf. Ditto.

 

1382, John Wandeford. Ditto.

 

1391, Simon Bangot. Ditto.

 

1391, John Bradock. Ditto.

 

1395, John Smith. Ditto.

 

1397, Henry Welden. Ditto.

 

1397, Thomas Coyte. Ditto.

 

1398, Richard Bytering. Ditto.

 

1403, Richard Bangoot. Ditto.

 

1403, John Ousnell Ditto.

 

1404, Walter Jakes. Ditto.

 

1413, William Norwich. Ditto.

 

1417, Thomas Smith. Ditto.

 

In 1458, Hugh Croke occurs vicar.

 

In 1503, I find it served by a stipendiary curate, for 5l. per ann. and he then returned 45 communicants, John Hill being the impropriator; and in 1742, the heirs of Mr. Peter Lawes.

 

¶Here was also a chapel at Hales-Hall, belonging to the manor of the family of De Hales, dedicated to St. Andrew: this, with the hall, stood in the parish of Loddon, and in 1287, it is said to stand in the manor of Wrantishagh, belonging to Sir Roger de Hales, in Loddon parish, and leave was then granted to him, that he might institute the chaplains of it, by the concession and grant of the abbot of Langley, rectors of the church of Loddon, and of John de Feryby, official to William, Bishop of Norwich, the said Sir Roger and his heirs granting to the chaplains all the obventions and oblations, with the small tithes of his court, and that the servant, of him and his heirs having their habitations in the parish of Loddon, shall pay to the mother church of Loddon, the oblations accustomed, and shall receive the sacraments there. (fn. 9) And the chaplains administering in the said chapel, were to pay yearly to the said mother church, in acknowledgment of subjection, all the oblations and obventions given on Easter-day, and St. Andrew's day, and two wax candles of a pound of wax, on Trinity Sunday, and to give security to the vicars of Loddon, for the time being, that they should not say any anniversaries, trentals, or any masses for any parishioners of Loddon.

 

In 1331, Sir John de Hales was patron, and in 1349; and John, son and heir of Sir John, in 1361.

 

Alexander de Hales, styled Doctor Irrefragabilis, who died in 1245, was born here. Hales, Halesworth, Halestead, Alesham and Aylesford, so called, as near to some river or water.

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/topographical-hist-norfolk/vol8...

A round towered church with a spire; somewhat unusual I imagine. Someone might like to correct me on that and I find its quite common.

 

I had seen shots of St George taken from the air by my Flickr friend, John Fielding. I decided to see if any of the churches he had snapped were near to my route to Cambridge, and found they were.

 

I did not think of going to Shimpling this day, but as this and Frenze are under the care of the Church Conservation Trust, an information board at the latter said I should go to the former if I enjoyed Frenze.

 

So I did.

 

Driving through Diss, trying to program the sat nav, easy as the main road through the town, under the railway bridge was a solid line of traffic, I only hoped that Shimpling would not be back the way I had just come.

 

The route took me through some of the narrow streets of the town centre, a place to go back to to explore I think, but my route took me out north through the modern houses then into the flat countryside of south Norfolk.

 

I arrived in Shimpling, a few houses and farms; where could the church be, and just as I was about to stop and annoy the lorry behind, I saw the information board at the start of the farm track leading to St George.

 

------------------------------------------

 

.

St George is a familiar sight to drivers between Ipswich and Norwich, off in the fields near Dickleburgh. A substantial, landmark church; and yet it is redundant. Coming from Suffolk, where the local Anglican Diocese goes out of its way to avoid redundancies if it can, Shimpling's redundancy seemed careless. This is not a tiny village, and if drawn into a group with Dickleburgh could surely have sustained a monthly service or so. Probably, if it arose nowadays, St George would not be declared redundant. From the point of view of the building, of course, it was both a blessing and a mercy, as the church is now in the capable, caring hands of the Churches Conservation Trust.

 

The setting of St George just to the south of its village is superb. A cart track leads up from a farm, difficult of access at the best of times, but suicide on this day when the snow still lay deep in the ruts, the mud sucking at our boots. If we had attempted to drive it then I guess the tractor would be getting to us about now. The keyholders both live about a mile off, but the walk was worth it.

 

St George is perhaps more typical of Suffolk than Norfolk, a rural church made opulent by the wealth of the later years of the 15th century. Then came the font, the benches, the roof, the surviving scattering of medieval angel glass. Otherwise, the feeling is of the much-maligned Victorians, who loved churches and wanted this one restored to its former glory. Geoffery Millard, rector through those times, has his memorial in the chancel, but all around it is the building that he would recognise instantly if he stepped into it today.

 

Amber light filled the space beneath the tower, and I was glad I was here, in this silent frozen space, this touchstone to the long generations. Some curiosities: under the benches at the west end, there is a trap door. Inside, some of the original medieval tiles have survived the Victorians; they merely built a wooden platform over them. Then, a wholly secular brass inscription of 1591 to Anthony le Grys is set in the mddle of the nave - but the inlay is the wrong size and shape, and so it must come originally from somewhere else. A small hole in the north wall of the sanctuary is surely too tiny to have been an aumbry. And yet, it is set back to take a door, and appears once to have had some sort of wooden tympanum set over it. Could it have been a squint from a shrine chapel? Or even from an anchorite's cell?

 

Incidentally, another curious thing: There is a Shimpling in Suffolk as well, and the churches of both are dedicated to St George, an otherwise unusual East Anglian dedication. The reason appears to be that the enthusiastic 18th century antiquarians, ruttling around in the Diocesan records at Norwich, accidentally applied the dedication of the Suffolk church to both, dedications having fallen out of use for two hundred years or more.

 

Simon Knott, March 2005

  

www.norfolkchurches.co.uk/shimpling/shimpling.htm

 

-----------------------------------------

 

SHIMPLING

¶Is bounded on the east by Dickleburgh, on the west by Burston, on the south by Thelton, and on the north by Gissing. It is a rectory appendant to the manor, and being discharged of first fruits and tenths, is capable of augmentation. The rectory hath a house and 16 acres of glebe: Norwich Domesday says, that Richard de Boyland was then patron, that the rector had a house and xv. acres of land; that the procurations were then vi.s. viii.d. and the synodals xxii.d.

 

Rectors.

 

1305, 6 kal. Dec. Robert de Boswyle, accolite, William de Schympling.

 

1328, 7 kal. Mar. Will. de Schymplyng, accolite. Roger, son of Will. de Shympling.

 

1338, 12 July, John de Cherchegate, priest to St. George's church at Shympling. Ditto.

 

1349, Robert Sampson, priest. Emma, late wife of Roger de Schymplyng.

 

1361, 13 Sept. Ric. de Halle, priest. Ditto.

 

1362, 21 Sept. Peter Scott. Ditto.

 

1386, 19 April, Tho. de Welles. Thomas de Glemesford.

 

1393, 28 March, Welles changed this with John Mulle for Mildeston rectory, in Sarum diocese. Roger de Ellingham and Joan Hardegrey.

 

1396, 29 March, Mulle exchanged with Will. Stone for Ludenham in Kent. Ditto.

 

1401, 29 Aug. John Drury, priest, who resigned Watton vicarage in exchange for this. Roger de Elyngham.

 

1408, 7 Aug. John Cok of Illington, priest.

 

1421, 8 Octob. Reginald Pepper of Berton Bendysch, priest, on the resignation of Cok. Ditto.

 

1421, 6 March, Tho. Young, on Pepper's resignation. William, son of Roger de Elyngham of Elyngham, near Bungey.

 

1422, 22 March, Rich. Senyngwell, on Young's resignation. Ditto.

 

1430, 20 Sept. Walter Skyde of Disse. Lapse.

 

1432, 23 Octob. Thomas Wright. Lapse.

 

1434, 14 Dec. John Grygby. William Elyngham of Elyngham by Bungey.

 

1437, 12 Octob. Richard de Schymplyng, on Grygby's resignation. William Elyngham of Elyngham by Bungey.

 

1449, 31 Jan. Robert Caade, resigned to John Beest, in exchange for Winterburn Basset rectory, in Wiltshire. Ditto.

 

1451, 21 April, Thomas Messinger, on Beest's death. Ditto.

 

1504, John Odiham.

 

1507, 4 Aug. James Galle. (fn. 1) Lapse.

 

1525, 19 Octob. Thomas Warde. Thomas Shardelowe, Esq.

 

1536, 26 March, John Lanman, (fn. 2) on Ward's death. John Aldham, lord of the moiety of Elyngham's manor here, by turns.

 

1563, 26 June, Thomas Oxford, alias Farmor, A. M. Stephen Shardelowe, Gent.

 

1572, 24 Nov. William Luffkyn, on Oxford's resignation. Stephen Shardelowe, and John Aldham, patrons.

 

1609, 1 Aug. Nicholas Colte. (fn. 3) John Sherdelowe.

 

1642, Jeremiah Gowen. (fn. 4) Adrian Mott of Braintree, and Margaret Carter of Stratford in Essex.

 

1649, Thomas Cole, (fn. 5) clerk, A. M. John and James Mott, Gent.

 

1684, 9 Dec. John Rand. John Buxton, Esq. united to Burston.

 

1706, 1 Jan. John Calver, on Rand's death. Robert Buxton, Esq. united to Gissing.

 

1729, The Rev. Mr. Thomas Buxton, the present rector, [1736,] united to Thorp-Parva.

 

The Church hath a steeple, round at bottom, and octangular at top, and four small bells; it is leaded, though the chancel is thatched, and the north porch tiled. It is dedicated to St. George, (fn. 6) whose effigies, with his shield, viz. arg. a plain cross gul. is to be seen in a south window of the chancel, and seems to be as old as the building, which in all appearance was in the beginning of the thirteenth century, (though the steeple is much older,) for then William de Shimplyng was lord and patron, whose arms still remain under this effigies, viz. arg. a chief gul. a fess between six de-lises sab.

 

Here was a Gild in honour of the same saint, (fn. 7) and a Chapel dedicated to St. Mary, which stood in Shimpling Hithe, of which there are no remains. This had some endowment, for Girrard the Prior, (fn. 8) and his Chapter at Norwich, with the Bishop's consent, granted to Richard the chaplain of Shimpling, 7 roods of meadow in Roreker in Shimpling, &c. in perpetual alms, paying yearly 5d. at the high altar in the cathedral, to which John Pierson of Gissing, and others, were witnesses, (fn. 9) so that this must be before 1201, for in that year Gerrard the Prior died; this was down before the general dissolution, for I meet with no grant of it at that time.

 

St. George and the dragon, and the arms of Shimpling, are carved on the font; the chancel is covered with large grave-stones, all disrobed of their brasses; several of them were laid over the rectors, as appear from the chalice and wafer upon them, that being the symbol of a priest; the rest that had arms, I take to be laid over the Shimplings and the Shardelows. The arms of

 

Shardelow are, arg. a chevron gul. between three croslets fitchee, az. Crest, a plume of feathers arg.

 

On a small stone towards the west end of the church:

 

Richard Lesingham, ob. 5° die. Octob. Anno Dni. 1705, Ætatis suæ - - - -

 

Here let him rest, Memory stile him dear, 'Till our Redeemer Shall in the clouds appear.

 

On a marble near the pulpit: arms of

 

Potter, sab. a fess between three mullets arg. Crest, an elephant's head erased arg. gutte de sang.

 

Here in expectation of a joyful resurrection, resteth the body of Cicill Potter, Gent. who dyed Jan. the 29th, 1693, aged 70 years.

 

In a window:

 

Gloria in Errelsis Deo.

 

Here are twelve penny loaves given to as many poor people, by the rector and church-wardens, on the first Sunday in every month, there being land tied for it.

 

In the Confessor's time Torbert held this manor of Stigand, it being then worth 20s. of whom the part in Gissing was also held by another freeman, and was then of 5s. value, but was risen to ten in the Conqueror's time, though Shimpling continued at the same value. This, as one manor, was given by the Conqueror to Roger Bygod, who gave it to Robert de Vais, (de Vallibus, or Vaus,) it being then a mile and a quarter long, and a mile broad. (fn. 10) The whole paid 5d. Geld. There was then a church and 10 acres glebe, valued at 12d. and several other manors extended hither, of which I shall afterwards treat in their proper places. The Vaises held it of Bygod's successors, till 1237, in which year Oliver de Vallibus (fn. 11) granted it to Richard de Rupella, (afterwards called Rokele,) settling it on him and his heirs by fine, (fn. 12) to be held of him by knight's service; he died in 1287, at which time he held it of John de Vallibus. This Richard granted it to be held of him and his heirs by Richard de Boyland, in trust for Ralph Carbonell, (fn. 13) who held it of Maud, wife of William de Roos, who was daughter and coheir of John de Vaux. This Ralph conveyed it to

 

Roger de Schymplyng, to be held by knight's service of Richard Rokeles's heirs; and in 1280, the said Roger (fn. 14) was lord, the manor being settled upon him, and Emma his wife, in tail; after their deaths it came to William de Schympling, (fn. 15) their son, who held it of Richard Rokell at half a fee, he of the Earl-Marshal, and he of the King in capite. This William married Margaret de Tacolveston, (fn. 16) on whom the manor was settled for life in 1303, it being then held of William de Roos and Maud his wife, and Petronell de Vaux, her sister. This William purchased a great part of the town of divers persons. He had a son named Roger, who presented in 1328, and held it till about 1345, when he was dead, and Emma his wife had it, at whose death it fell divisible between their three daughters: (fn. 17)

 

Isabel, married to John Kirtling, to whom this manor was allotted;

 

Joan, who had Moring-Thorp manor, and

 

Katerine, married to William de Ellyngham, who had Dalling manor in Flordon. Isabell had issue, Roger and Emma, who left none, so that this manor and advowson descended to Roger, son of William de Elyngham and Katerine his wife, daughter of Roger de Schymplyng, which said Roger de Elyngham held it in 1401, by half a fee, of John Copledick, Knt. who held it of the Lady Roos, she of Thomas Mowbray, and he in capite of the King. How it went from the Elynghams I do not know, but imagine it must be by female heiresses; for in 1521, Humphry Wyngfield had a moiety of it, and John Aldham had another part; he died in 1558, and was buried in this chancel, leaving his part to John his son, (fn. 18) who held it jointly with Bonaventure Shardelowe, in 1571; Mr. Aldham had a fourth part of the manor, and a third turn, and Mr. Shardelow three parts and two turns. The patronage and manor was in Mr. John Motte, who was buried October 7, 1640, and John Motte, and his brother James, presented in 1649. It looks as if the Mottes had Aldham's part, and after purchased Shardelow's of Mr. John Shardelowe, who held it till 1611, together with Dalling manor in Florden, which was held of Shimpling manor. He conveyed it to Edmund Skipwith, Esq. and Antony Barry, Gent. and they to Thomas Wales, and John Basely, Gent. who conveyed it to the Motts, from whom, I am apt to think, it came to the Proctors, for John Buxton of St. Margaret's in South Elmham had it, in right of his wife, who was kinswoman and heiress of Mr. Proctor, rector of Gissing; after this it came to Robert Buxton, Esq. who died and left it to Elizabeth his wife, who is since dead, and Elizabeth Buxton, their only daughter, a minor, is now [1736] lady and patroness.

 

The Leet belongs to the manor, and the fine is at the lord's will.

 

As to the other parts of this village, (fn. 19) they being parts of the manors of Titshall, Fersfield, and Brisingham, it is sufficient to observe, that they went with those manors, except that part held by Fulco, of which the register called Pinchbek, fo. 182, says that Fulco or Fulcher held of the Abbot in Simplingaham and Gissing, 70 acres, and 4 borderers, being infeoffed by Abbot Baldwin in the time of the Conqueror; this, about Edward the First's time, was in Sir John Shardelowe, a judge in that King's reign, in whose family it continued till 1630, when it was sold to Mr. Mott. The seat of the Shardelows is now called the Place, and is the estate of the Duke of Grafton; and (as I am informed) formerly belonged to Isaac Pennington, (fn. 20) alderman of London, one of those rebels that sat as judges at the King's trial, for which villainy he was knighted. He lived to the Restoration, when, according to his deserts, his estates were seized as forfeited to King Charles II. who gave this to the Duke of Grafton; upon the forfeiture, the copyhold on the different manors were also seized, which is the reason that the quitrents to Gissing, Titshall, &c. are so large, they being made so when the Lords regranted them.

 

¶I have seen an ancient deed made by John Camerarius, or Chambers, of Shimpling, to Richard de Kentwell, clerk, and Alice his wife, and their heirs, of 3 acres of land in this town, witnessed by Sir Gerard de Wachesam, Knt. and others, which is remarkable, for its never having any seal, and its being dated at Shimpling in the churchyard, on Sunday next before Pentecost, anno 1294. (fn. 21) This shews us that seals (as Lambard justly observes (fn. 22) ) were not in common use at this time; and, therefore, to make a conveyance the most solemn and publick that could be, the deed was read to the parish, after service, in the churchyard, that all might know it, and be witnesses, if occasion required. The Saxons used no seals, only signed the mark of a cross to their instruments, to which the scribe affixed their names, by which they had a double meaning; first, to denote their being Christians, and then, as such, to confirm it by the symbol of their faith. The first sealed charter we meet with is that of Edward the Confessor to Westminster abbey, which use he brought with him from Normandy, where he was brought up; and for that reason it was approved of by the Norman Conqueror; though sealing grew into common use by degrees, the King at first only using it, then some of the nobility, after that the nobles in general, who engraved on their seals their own effigies covered with their coat armour; after this, the gentlemen followed, and used the arms of their family for difference sake. But about the time of Edward III. seals became of general use, and they that had no coat armour, sealed with their own device, as flowers, birds, beasts, or whatever they chiefly delighted in, as a dog, a hare, &c.; and nothing was more common than an invention or rebus for their names, as a swan and a tun for Swanton, a hare for Hare, &c.; and because very few of the commonality could write, (all learning at that time being among the religious only,) the person's name was usually circumscribed on his seal, so that at once they set both their name and seal, which was so sacred a thing in those days, that one man never used another's seal, without its being particularly taken notice of in the instrument sealed, and for this reason, every one carried their seal about them, either on their rings, or on a roundel fastened sometimes to their purse, sometimes to their girdle; nay, oftentimes where a man's seal was not much known, he procured some one in publick office to affix theirs, for the greater confirmation: thus Hugh de Schalers, (or Scales,) a younger son of the Lord Scales's family, parson of Harlton in Cambridgeshire, upon his agreeing to pay the Prior of Bernewell 30s. for the two third parts of the tithe corn due to the said Prior out of several lands in his parish, because his seal was known to few, he procured the archdeacon's official to put his seal of office, for more ample confirmation: (fn. 23) and when this was not done, nothing was more common than for a publick notary to affix his mark, which being registered at their admission into their office, was of as publick a nature as any seal could be, and of as great sanction to any instrument, those officers being always sworn to the true execution of their office, and to affix no other mark, than that they had registered, to any instrument; so their testimony could be as well known by their mark, as by their name; for which reason they were called Publick Notaries, Nota in Latin signifying a mark, and Publick because their mark was publickly registered, and their office was to be publick to all that had any occasion for them to strengthen their evidence. There are few of these officers among us now, and such as we have, have so far varied from the original of their name, that they use no mark at all, only add N. P. for Notary Publick, at the end of their names. Thus also the use of seals is now laid aside, I mean the true use of them, as the distinguishing mark of one family from another, and of one branch from another; and was it enjomed by publick authority, that every one in office should, upon his admission, choose and appropriate to himself a particular seal, and register a copy of it publickly, and should never use any other but that alone, under a severe penalty, I am apt to think, in a short time we should see the good effects of it; (fn. 24) for a great number of those vagabonds that infest our country under pretence of certificates signed by proper magistrates, (whose hands are oftener counterfeit than real,) would be detected; for though it is easy for an ill-designing person to forge a handwriting, it is directly the contrary as to a seal; and though it is in the power of all to know the magistrates names, it is but very few of such sort of people that could know their seals; so that it would in a great measure (if not altogether) put a stop to that vile practice; and it would be easy for every magistrate to know the seals of all others, if they were entered properly, engraved, and published: and it might be of service, if all the office seals in England (or in those foreign parts that any way concern the realm) were engraved and published, for then it would be in every one's power to know whether the seals of office affixed to all passes, &c. were genuine or no; for it is well known that numbers travel this nation, under pretence of passes from our consuls and agents abroad, and sometimes even deceive careful magistrates with the pretended hands and seals of such, it being sometimes impossible for them to know the truth, which by this means would evidently appear. And thus much, and a great deal more, may be said to encourage the true and original use of that wise Conqueror's practice, who can scarce be said to put any thing into use but what he found was of advantage to his government.

 

This rectory is in Norfolk archdeaconry, and Redenhall deanery: it had 69 communicants in 1603, and hath now [1736] 23 houses, and about 130 inhabitants. The town is valued at 300l. per annum. (fn. 25) Here are 3 acres of town land, one piece is a small pightle abutting on the land of Robert Leman, Esq. another piece is called Susan's pightle, lying in Gissing, and was given by a woman of this name, to repair the church porch, (as I am informed,) the other piece lies in Diss Heywode, and pays an annual rent of 5s.

 

The Commons are Kett's Fen, which contains about 4 acres; Pound Green, 1 acre; Hall Green, 4 acres; the Bottom, 6 acres; and the Lower Green, 6 acres.

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/topographical-hist-norfolk/vol1...

Heritage Weekend is more than just the Saturday. In fact its more than one weekend. And the website for the weekend listed many intersting places to go, but few in east Kent on the Sunday, but St Margaret's being open was one of them.

 

So, after we had left St Mildred in Canterbury, we drove up the M2, and then through the usual strip malls and urban spread that is the Medway Towns.

 

The sat nav took us down narrow streets, across a main road, and up a slight hill, and announced we had arrived.

 

Nothing churchy leaped out at me.

 

I thought maybe down the narrow lane in front. It was then I saw the wall.

 

The wall looked chuchy. And beyond was an early 19th century building that had heritage bunting strung out.

 

Bingo.

 

The first view had the tower hidden by a tree, I thought perhaps it didn't have one.

 

But nearer to the church I could see it did have a tower, an a medieval one at that, it looked like an unhappy coupling.

 

I was given a very warm welcome, and the history of the church was explained:

 

the original church was in a ruinous state at the start of the 19th century, and when Army and Naval officers began to have houses built in the area, they wanted a nice fashionable church.

 

So the nave and chancel were taken down, and the current nave put in its place.

 

Built before the English Gothic fervour took hold.

 

The east and west windows have been replaced since the church was built.

 

------------------------------------------

  

THE PARISH OF ST. MARGARET is of large extent, and contains all the lands without the walls on the south side of the city, that are within the bounds of its jurisdiction. It is stiled in some records, St. Margaret's in Suthgate, (fn. 22) and in those of the city, the Borough of Suthgate. (fn. 23)

 

There are two streets of houses in this parish, the one called St. Margaret's-street, leading from Bully-hill to the church, and so on to Borstall and Woldham southward; the other at some distance from it called St. Margaret's-bank, being a long row of houses, situated on a high bank at the north-east boundary of the parish, on the south side of the great London road to Dover, between St. Catherine's hospital in Rochester, and the Victualling-office, in Chatham. These houses are within the manor of Larkhill.

 

THERE are SEVERAL MANORS within the bounds of this parish, the most eminent of which is that of

 

BORSTALL, which was given to the church of Rochester and bishop Beornmod, in the year 811, by Cænulf, king of Mercia, as three plough lands.

 

This manor seems to have continued part of the possessions of the church of Rochester, without any interruption, till the time of the conquest. It is thus described in the general survey of Domesday, taken in the year 1080, under the general title of Terra Epi Rovecestre, i. e. the lands of the bishop of Rochester.

 

In the hundred of Rochester, the same bishop (of Rochester) holds Borchetelle. In the time of king Edward the Confessor it was taxed at two sulings, and now for one suling and an half. The arable land is four carucates. In demesne there are two carucates, and six villeins with three carucates. There are 50 acres of meadow, and two mills of 20 shillings. In the time of king Edward, and afterwards, it was worth six pounds, and now 10 pounds.

 

In Rochester the bishop had, and yet has, 24 plats of ground, which belong to Frindsbury and Borstal, his own manors. In the time of king Edward the Confessor, and afterwards, they were worth three pounds, now they are worth eight pounds, and yet they yield yearly 11 pounds and 13 shillings and four-pence.

 

When bishop Gundulph was elected to this see in the time of the Conqueror, and after the example of his patron, archbishop Lanfranc, separated his own revenues from those of his convent, this manor in the division was allotted to the bishop and his successors.

 

On a taxation of the bishop of Rochester's manors, in 1255, it appears that the bishop had in the manor of Borstalle one hundred and forty acres of arable, estimated each acre at 4d. forty acres of salt meadow at 8d. each, and fourteen acres of salt pasture, each at 6d. which, with the rents of assise, made the total value of the whole manor 9l. 10s. 3d. the repair of the buildings yearly amounting to twenty shillings. (fn. 24)

 

This manor still continues in the possession of the bishop of Rochester; but the demesne lands are leased out by him to Mrs. Vade, of Croydon, in Surry.

 

By the agreement made between John Lowe, bishop of Rochester, and the bailiff and citizens of Rochester, in the 27th year of king Henry VI. concerning the limits of the jurisdiction of the city, according to the charter then lately made to them, this borough and manor of Borstall was declared to be exempt from the precinct of the hundred of Rochester, and the law-day of it, and from all payments, fines, suits forfeitures and amerciaments due on that account, as being within the liberty of the bishop, and his church. (fn. 25)

 

The monks of Rochester priory had several grants of TYTHES, and other premises made to them within this manor and hamlet.

 

Robert Ernulf and Eadric de Borstalle, gave the tithes of their lands in Borstalle to the priory, which were confirmed to it by several bishops of Rochester, and others (fn. 26) In which confirmations they are described, as the whole tithe of Borstalle of corn, and two parts of the tithes of the land of Ralph de Borstalle. (fn. 27) Eadric de Hescenden, with his wife and two sons, entered into the society of the monks of this priory, upon condition, that when they died, the monks should say a service for them, as for their brethren; and the monks were to have for ever the tithes of their lands in Borestealle and Freondesberie, but in corn only.

 

Several parcels of land, &c. lying within the manor or hamlet of Borstall, were likewise at times given to these monks. All these premises continued part of the possessions of the priory till the dissolution of it, in 1549, when they were surrendered into the king's hands, and were settled by him, three years afterwards, on his new founded dean and chapter of Rochester, where they remain at present.

 

This manor, with others in this neighbourhood, was bound antiently to contribute to the repair of the first pier of Rochester-bridge.

 

NASHENDEN is a manor in this parish, which lies about three-quarters of a mile south-eastward from Borstall. In the Textus Roffensis it is called Hescenden, and in Domesday, Essedene.

 

This manor was part of those vast possessions, with which William the Conqueror enriched his half-brother Odo, the great bishop of Baieux; accordingly it is thus entered, under the title of that prelate's lands, in the general survey of Domesday:

 

Rannulf de Columbels holds of the bishop (of Baieux) Essedene. It was taxed at one suling. The arable land is . . . . In demesne there is one carucate, and 19 villeins, with three borderers having three carucates. There are three servants, and 8 acres of meadow. In the time of king Edward the Confessor, it was worth three pounds, when he received it four pounds, now five pounds. Earl Leuuin held it.

 

It appears by the red book of the exchequer, that this estate in the reign of king Henry II. was held by Thomas de Nessingden, of Daniel de Crevequer, as one knight's fee of the old feoffment.

 

In the reign of king Edward I. this manor was become the property of Jeffry Haspale, whose descendant, John de Aspale, for so the name was then spelt, died possessed of Nashenden in the 31st year of that reign, holding it of the king in capite. After which it appears to have come into the name of Basing, and from thence quickly after into that of Charles.

 

Richard Charles, as appears by the inquisition taken after his death, anno 1 Richard II. died possessed of the manor of Naseden, which he held of the king in capite by knight's service, excepting forty acres of pasture and wood, which he held of the lord Grey, as of his manor of Aylesford; whose nephew, Richard, son of his brother Roger Charles, died possessed of it in the 11th year of that reign, holding it of the king in capite, as of his honor of Peverel and Hagenet, by knight's service.

 

Nicholas Haut afterwards possessed this manor, in right of his wife Alice, who was a descendant of the above-mentioned family. She held it for the term of her life with remainder to James Peckham, who on her death, in the 1st year of king Henry IV. came into the possession of it. He obtained the king's licence two years afterwards, to give and amortize to the wardens of Rochester-bridge, and their successors, this manor, and also one hundred acres of pasture, with their appurtenances in Ellesford, the manor then being worth yearly, and above all reprises 6l. 13s. 4d. per annum. (fn. 28) Since which it has continued part of the possessions of the wardens and commonalty of the said bridge, for the support and repair of it. The present lessees of this manor are Leonard Bartholemew and Phil. Boghurst, esqrs.

 

An account of the tithes of this manor will be given, with those of Little Delce in this parish. (fn. 29)

 

There was a chapel at this place, dependent on the parish church of St. Margaret. (fn. 29)

 

GREAT DELCE is a manor which, with the estate now called LOWER DELCE, lies on the eastern side of this parish, about half a mile southward from Eastgate, in Rochester. It was formerly called Much Delce and Delce Magna, or Great Delce, and was given by William the Conqueror to Odo, bishop of Baieux, his halfbrother, under the title of whose lands it is thus entered in the general survey of Domesday:

 

In the lath of Aylesford, in Rochester hundred, the son of William Tabum holds Delce of the bishop (of Baieux). It was taxed at one suling and one yoke. The arable land is . . . . . There is one carucate in demesne, and five villeins having five carucates. There are 12 acres of meadow, wood for the pannage of one bog. In the time of king Edward the Confessor, and afterwards, it was worth three pounds, and now 70 shillings. Godric held it of king Edward.

 

This manor afterwards came into the possession of a family, to which it gave name. Herebert, Gosfrid, and Hugo de Delce possessed it in successive generations. After which it passed to Buckerel, and the heirs of Thomas Buckerel, in the latter end of the reign of king Henry III. held it as two knights fees and a half, of Bertram de Criol. (fn. 30) After which this estate seems to have been separated into parcels, for Geoffry de Haspale held this manor as the fourth part of a knight's fee only, at the time of his death, in the 15th year of king Edward I. as appears by the inquisition taken for that purpose.

 

The next family who succeeded, as appears by the original deeds of this estate, was that of Molineux, descended from those of Sefton, in Lancashire; but they did not keep possession of it long, for by the evidence of an antient court roll, Benedict de Fulsham was lord of it in the 30th year of king Edward III. His descendant, Richard Fulsham, held it of the king in capite, as the fourth part of a knight's fee, at his death in the 5th year of king Henry V. Soon after which this name seems to have become extinct here; for in the 9th year of that reign, Reginald Love died possessed of it, and his successor held it till the latter end of king Henry VI's reign, when it passed by sale to William Venour, whose arms were, Argent, on a fess sable five escallops or, three and two, and who died possessed of this manor in the 1st year of king Edward IV. After which it was within a few months conveyed by sale to Markham, descended from an antient family of that name in Nottinghamshire, in which name it staid but a very short time before it was sold to Tate, who passed it away to Sir Richard Lee, citizen of London, and grocer, who served the office of lord-mayor in the 39th year of king Henry VI. and the 9th year of king Edward IV. (fn. 31) He was the eldest son of John Lee, of Wolksted, in Surry, and grandson of Symon Lee, who was descended of ancestors in Worcestershire, and bore for his arms, Azure, on a sess cotized or, three leopard's faces gules. He lies buried in the church of St. Stephen, Walbrook, his arms are remaining in East-Grinsted church, and in that of St. Dionis Backchurch, in London, with those of several marriages of his posterity; his son Richard Lee seems to have had this manor of Great Delce by gift of his father during his life-time, and kept his shrievalty at this mansion in the 19th year of the latter reign, his son Richard, who was both of Delce and of Maidstone, left two sons, the youngest of whom, Edward, was archbishop of York, (fn. 32) and the eldest Richard, was of Delce, whose only surviving son, Godfrey, in the 31st year of Henry VIII. procured his lands to be disgavelled, by the general act passed for this purpose, (fn. 33) after which his descendants continued to reside here for several generations, but Richard Lee, esq. about the latter end of queen Anne's reign, passed away the whole of this estate, excepting the manor, and forty acres of land, to Thomas Chiffinch, esq. of Northfleet, in this county, from which time this seat and estate acquired the name of Lower Delce.

 

Thomas Chiffinch, esq. died in 1727, and was succeeded by Thomas Chiffinch, esq. his only son and heir, who died without issue in 1775, and by his will bequeathed this, among his other estates, to his niece and heir-at-law, Mary, the daughter of his sister Elizabeth Comyns, who afterwards carried them in marriage to Francis Wadman, esq. of the Hive, in Northfleet, and he is the present possessor of Lower Delce.

 

THE MANOR OF GREAT DELCE, and the forty acres of land above-mentioned, together with a farm, called King's Farm, continued in the possession of Richard Lee, esq. who died possessed of them in 1724, and his grandson, Richard Lee, esq. of Clytha, in Wales, now possesses this manor; but in 1769, he alienated all the demesnes of it, together with King's farm, to Mr. Sampson Waring, of Chatham, who died possessed of them in 1769, leaving his brother, Mr. Walter Waring, and his sister, Mrs. Smith, of Lower Delce, his executors, who are at this time entitled to the profits of them. The court for the manor of Great Delce has not been held for some years.

 

The manor is held by castle-guard rent of Rochester castle; but when the mansion and most part of the lands were sold, as above mentioned, from Lee to Chiffinch, the former expressly charged the whole of that rent on the premises bought by Chiffinch, and entirely exonerated that part which he reserved to himself from paying any portion of it.

 

An account of the tithes of this manor, given to the priory of Rochester, may be seen under the following description of Little Delce manor.

 

LITTLE DELCE, or DELCE PARVA, now known by the name of UPPER DELCE, is a manor in this parish, situated in the high road between Rochester and Maidstone, somewhat more than a quarter of a mile from the former. This likewise, as well as that of Great Delce, was given by William the Conqueror to his half brother Odo, bishop of Baieux; under the general title of whose lands it is thus described in the book of Domesday:

 

In Rochester hundred, Ansgotus de Roucestre holds Delce of the bishop (of Baieux). It was taxed at one suling. The arable land is two carucates, and there are in demesne . . . . . . . with one villein, and five borderers, and six servants. There are 12 acres of meadow, and 60 acres of pasture. In the time of king Edward the Confessor, and afterwards, and now, it was, and is worth 100 shillings. Osuuard held it of king Edward.

 

This estate, on the disgrace of bishop Odo, most probably reverted again into the king's hands; and seems afterwards to have been in the possession of a family, who assumed their name, De Delce, from it, and held it of William de Say, as one knight's fee. (fn. 34)

 

In the reign of king John, this manor was in the possession of Jeffry de Bosco, a Norman; but when that province was seized by the king of France, the lands of the Normans, in this kingdom, became vested in the crown, by way of escheat or seizure, under the title of, Terra Normanorum; thus the manor of Little Delce was seized by king John, in the 5th year of his reign, who gave it to William de Ciriton, the sheriff, for two hundred pounds, two palfreys, and two gols hawks, (fn. 35) on condition, that if the said Jeffry should return to his allegiance, he should, without delay, again possess the same. (fn. 36) But this never happened, and this manor continued in the desendants of William de Ciriton. Odo de Ciriton died possessed of it it in the 31st year of king Henry III. holding it of the king in capite, by the service of one knight's fee. (fn. 37) This family was extinct here before the middle of the reign of king Edward I. for in the 9th year of that reign, as appears by Kirkby's Inquest. Richard Pogeys held this manor. At the latter end of the reign of king Edward III. it was possessed by the family of Basing, from which name it went into that of Charles. Richard Charles died possessed of the manor of Little Delce, in the 1st year of king Richard II. leaving his brother's sons, Richard and John, his next heirs; the former of whom died possessed of it, anno 11 Richard II. and left a son, Robert Charles, who dying without issue, his two sisters became his coheirs, viz. Alice, married to William Snayth, and Joan to Richard Ormskirk; and on the division of their estates, this manor fell to the share of William Snayth, commonly called Snette, in right of his wife, Alice, the eldest of them. Soon after which, Charles and William Snette, for so the name is spelt in the bridge archives, gave and amortized this manor of Little Delce, of the yearly value of six marcs, above all reprises, to the wardens of Rochester bridge and their successors, for the support and repair of the same. Since which it has acquired the name of Upper Delce, by which it is now only known, and it continues at this time part of the possessions of the wardens and commonalty of the said bridge, for the purposes above mentioned. The present lessees of this manor are Leonard Bartholomew and Philip Boghurst, esqrs.

 

The tithes of Great and Little Delce, Borstal, and Nashenden, were given, in the time of bishop Gundulph, to the priory of Rochester.

 

Gosfrid de Delce, together with his wife and children, on their being admitted to be partakers of the benefits received from the prayers of the monks, gave the whole of the tithes of Little Delce, both great and small, to the priory of St. Andrew.

 

Ansgotus de Rovecestre accepted of the like benefit from the church of St. Andrew, and the monks there, in the time of bishop Gundulph, and gave to the church and monks there, all his tithes, both great and small, of Great Delce, and in like manner the whole of his tithe mill, and of a certain piece of land included within the wall of the monks, towards the south, and five acres of land near Prestefelde, and at their request, gave them, on his death bed, cloathing, and they performed service for him as for a monk.

 

Uulmer, the tenant of Arnulf de Hesdine, by the advice of Adelold, brother of Baldwin, monk of St. Andrew, accepted the benefit of that society, and gave to it his whole tithe, worth ten shillings yearly. Robert de St. Armand gave his tithes of Neschendene and Borstelle to St. Andrew's priory. These several tithes were confirmed to the priory by various bishops of Rochester; by Theobald, archbishop, and Ralph, prior, and the convent of Canterbury. They remained part of the possessions of the priory till their dissolution in 1540; three years after which they were settled on the new founded dean and chapter of Roter, where they still remain.

 

The PARISH of St. MARGARET, is Rochester, is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese and deanry of Rochester. The church is situated at the south extremity of St. Margaret's-street; it consists of one nave and two chancels on the south side of much later date than the church. That towards the east end was built and long supported by the family of Lee, of Great Delce, whose remains lie in a large vault under this chancel; but since the alienation of their mansion here, the repair of this part of the fabric has devolved on the parishioners. The chancel, at the east end of the church, belongs to the appropriator, who consequently repairs it. At the west end of the church is a tower, containing five bells; it is entirely covered with ivy to the top of it, which makes a most beautiful and picturesque appearance. Against the east wall, in the south chancel, is the antient bust of a man in robes, with a coronet on his head. (fn. 38) In the reign of king Charles II. a coronet, set round with precious stones, was dug up in this church yard; and the report of the parish has been, that one of our Saxon kings was buried here.

 

Among other monuments and inscriptions in this church are the following: In the chancel, a brass for Syr James Roberte Preess, obt. Sep. 24, 1540. A monument, arms, Head, impaling quarterly a chevron between three hawks belled or, for Francis Head, esq. eldest son of Sir Richard Head. bart. obt. 1678; he married the only daughter of Sir George Ent. In the north window, Argent. three crosses bottony fitchee sable, and argent on a bend quarterly, an efcallop gules. In a pew, partly in the chancel and partly in the nave, Argent on a bend gules, between two peliers, three swans proper. In the nave, a brass for Tho. Cod. vicar, a benefactor to the steeple of this church, obt. Nov. 1465. In the chancel, south of the rectors, a monument, arms, Argent, a right hand couped sable, impaling Lee, for Thomas Manly, esq the third son and heir of George Manly, of Lach, esq. he married Jane, second daughter of Richard Lee, esq. of Delce, and left one only son and two daughters, obt. 1690. In the east window, arms of Lee, Azure on a fess cotized, or three leopards heads gules. In a chapel, west of the Lee chancel, in the east wall, a bust of a person with a crown on his head, much defaced. (fn. 39)

 

At the time of bishop Gundulph's coming to the see of Rochester, and for almost a century afterwards, this church or chapel of St. Margaret, for it is frequently mentioned by both names, was accounted only as an appendage to the parochial altar of St. Nicholas in the cathedral, and the one underwent the same changes as the other; (fn. 40) and Walter, bishop of Rochester, in 1147, confirmed the above mentioned parochial altar, together with this church of St. Margaret, which belonged as a chapel to it, to the monks of this priory, and appropriated it to them. This grant was set aside by bishop Gilbert de Glanville, in the beginning of the reign of king Richard I. who not only separated this church from the altar of St. Nicholas, and divested the monks of all manner of right to it; but on the foundation of his hospital at Stroud about the same time, he gave, in pure and perpetual alms, among other premises, this church of St. Margaret to the master and brethren of it, and appropriated it to them, reserving only half a marc yearly to be paid to the priory, in lieu of the oblations which the monks used to receive from it. (fn. 41)

 

The monks by no means acquiesced in this gift, but seized every opportunity of asserting their right to this church, and after several appeals to the pope from time to time, and confirmation and decrees made in favour of each party, (fn. 42) the dispute seems to have been finally settled in 1255, when the pope adjudged, that this church of St. Margaret, with all its appurtenances, should for the future belong to the prior and chapter of Rochester; accordingly from the above time they kept possession of it.

 

From the time of bishop Walter's appropriation of the profits of the parochial altar of St. Nicholas, with this church appendant to it, to the prior and convent, to the divesting them of it by bishop Glanville, it is likely, instead of a curate being appointed, the duty of this parish was discharged by some member of the society, as it was probably afterwards, whilst in the possession of the hospital, by one of the priests of that foundation; however, within a few years after the convent recovered the permanent possession of St. Margaret's, a vicar was certainly appointed, for William Talevez occurs by that title in 1272.

 

The vicars seem to have had only a yearly stipend from the convent for their pains, for more than a century afterwards; but in 1401, the prior and chapter came into a composition with the vicar for the endowment of this church; in which they agreed, that the vicar and his successors should for the future have, for their maintenance, and the support of the burthens therein mentioned, a mansion with its appurtenances, to be assigned for the vicarage of it, and the accustomed and entire altarage of it, and all the small tithes of the three manors of Nessenden and Great and Little Delce, and of all goods and lands, except the tithes of mills, within the parish, and except the tithes, great, small, and mixed, arising from the lands, cattle, and other things belonging to the religious; and that he and his successors should have three quarters of wheat with three heaps, and three quarters of barley with three heaps, to be taken yearly at their barn, at the times therein mentioned, and the tithes of sheaves, which should arise in gardens not cultivated with the plough; and that the vicar and his suc cessors, content with the above portion, should not demand any thing further of the religious or their successors; and further, that he and they should undergo, at their own proper costs and charges, the burthens of repairing, maintaining, and new building, as often as need should be, the buildings, with their appurtenances, and all other things belonging to the said mansion, with its appurtenances, as well as all things belonging to the celebration of divine services, and the administration of the sacraments and sacramentals to the parishioners, and the finding of bread and wine, lights, books, vestments, and other ornaments necessary to the celebration of divine services, which of custom or right ought to belong to the secular rectors of this church; and also the procurations and subsidies, according to the taxation of his and their portion; but all other things whatsoever, belonging or which in future should belong to this church, as well as all tithes whatsoever, arising or to arise from the lands and possessions of the prior and convent within the parish, even though they should be let or sold to laymen, they the said prior and convent should take and have, who should likewise maintain and repair the chancel, except as before excepted, at their own proper costs and charges. Notwithstanding the stipulation of the vicar for himself and his successors, not to require any increase of their portion from the prior and convent, Edmund Harefelde, vicar of this church, did not consider this clause as obligatory upon him; for in 1488, he petitioned the bishop for an augmentation of his vicarial portion, who decreed, that the vicar and his successors should yearly receive, as the portion of his vicarage, from the prior and convent, five marcs in money; and out of the tithes and profits of this church, appropriated to the prior and convent, four quarters of wheat with four heaps, and four quarters of barley with four heaps, to be taken yearly at their barns of the Upper court, in Harreat, with liberty of entry and distress on the parsonage on non-payment; and he decreed, that the endowment of the vicarage, over and above the portion above mentioned, should be as follows, that the vicar for the time being should have the mansion of the vicarage of this church, with the garden adjoining, for his habitation, which they used to have of old time there, and then had; and all manner of oblations whatsoever within the bounds of the parish, and all manner of tithes whatsoever, as of hay, lambs, wool, mills, calves, chicken, pigs, geese, ducks, eggs, bees, honey, wax, cheese, milk, the produce of the dairy, flax, hemp, pears, apples, swans, pidgeons, merchandizes, fisheries, pastures, onions, garlics, and saffrons whatsoever arising and coming; and also the tithes of sheaves in gardens, whether cultivated with the plough or dug with the foot, increasing within the parish; and the tithes also of firewood, woods, thorns, silva cedua, as well as of all billets, faggots, and fardels whatsoever, within the limits of the parish; and he further decreed, that the burthens of repairing, amending, and new building the mansion, with every appurtenance belonging to it, and the celebration and ministration of the sacraments and the sacramentals to the parishioners, of the finding of bread and wine, and lights to the church, either of right or custom due, should belong to and be borne by the vicar and his successors, as well as all episcopal burthens of the said church, according to the taxation of his portion. But that the burthen of repairing and amending the chancel of the church, as well within as without, as also the finding and repairing of books, vestments, and other ornaments, for the celebration of those divine rights, which of old, either by right or custom, belonged to the rectors of the church, should in future be borne by the prior and convent and their successors, at their own proper charge and expence; and that all other burthens, ordinary and extraordinary, of the vicarage, and to the vicar belonging, by reason of tha same, except as before excepted, should belong to him and his successors, to be borne and supported at his and their own proper costs and charges; saving to the bishop and his successors, a right of augmenting and diminishing this vicarage, and of correcting, amending, and explaining the above decree, whenever he or they should think it expedient so to do; and saving to himself and his successors, all episcopal right, (fn. 43) &c.

 

The appropriation of this church, and the patronage of the vicarage, continued part of the possessions of the prior and convent till the dissolution of the monastery, in 1540, when it was surrendered into the king's hands, who three years after, by his dotation charter, settled this appropriation and vicarage on his new founded dean and chapter of Rochester, where they remain at this time.

 

Adjoining to the north wall of the church yard is a piece of ground, which has probably belonged to the vicars of this parish ever since their first institution here; an antient court roll mentions their being possessed of it in the year 1317.

 

In the 5th year of king Edward III. John de Folkstan, vicar of St. Margaret's, held a messuage, with its appurtenances, adjoining to the church yard, by the assignment of the prior and convent, with the ordination of the bishop, as belonging to the portion of his vicarage; which messuage, with its appurtenances, was held of the master and brethren of the hospital of Stroud, by fealty, and the service of two shillings yearly, and also the payment of twelvepence to them, after the death of each vicar. (fn. 44)

 

The vicars, I am told, now hold this piece of land of the dean and chapter, as of their manor of Ambree, on their paying a small acknowledgment.

 

The vicarage house being from age become irreparable, was taken down, with an intention of erecting a convenient and substantial dwelling in the room of it; for which purpose Mr. Lowth, the late vicar, for several years deposited an annual sum with the dean and chapter, towards defraying the charges of it; and about 1781, erected on this spot a neat and convenient house, built of brick and sashed, with proper offices adjoining, for the use of himself and his successors, vicars of this parish. By an agreement between John Ready, vicar of it, and the dean and chapter, the former, in consideration of several benefits and benevolences done to him by the latter, consented to take an annual payment of 5l. 6s. 8d. instead of the pension in money and corn, granted by the composition made in 1488. Some recompence indeed has since been made for this unjust bargain by the dean and chapter, who have settled on it a larger augmentation than on any other church in their patronage. The vicarage of St. Margaret is valued in the king's books at 10l. and the yearly tenths at 1l. (fn. 45)

 

¶In the survey, taken after the death of Charles I. in 1649, of the church livings within this diocese, by the powers then in being, on the intended abolition of deans and chapters, it was returned, that there were belonging to this rectory or parsonage, a parsonagehouse, two barns, one stable, and other houshings, and also certain tithes, profits, &c. belonging to it, together with certain glebe land, called Court-hill and Court hill marsh, containing together nine acres, and and one marsh, lying in the parish of St. Nicholas, Rochester, called Cow marsh, with the waste ground called salts, containing together seven acres, and all that piece of ground called Upper court, alias Hogshaw, containing one acre; in all seventeen acres, worth together 130l. per annum, viz. the house and lands, 12l. per annum, and the tithes 118l. per ann. all which were let, among other premises, by Henry King, late dean of the cathedral church of Rochester, by his indenture, in 1639, to George Newman, esq. for twenty-one years, at the yearly rent, for Preestfield and Stroud marsh, of 4s. 4d. per annum, and for all the other premises twelve quarters of wheat, heaped, making together the yearly rent of 31l. 1s. 8d. Next the vicarage was, in like manner surveyed, and returned at the yearly value of 30l. (fn. 46)

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-kent/vol4/pp153-182

Heritage Weekend is more than just the Saturday. In fact its more than one weekend. And the website for the weekend listed many intersting places to go, but few in east Kent on the Sunday, but St Margaret's being open was one of them.

 

So, after we had left St Mildred in Canterbury, we drove up the M2, and then through the usual strip malls and urban spread that is the Medway Towns.

 

The sat nav took us down narrow streets, across a main road, and up a slight hill, and announced we had arrived.

 

Nothing churchy leaped out at me.

 

I thought maybe down the narrow lane in front. It was then I saw the wall.

 

The wall looked chuchy. And beyond was an early 19th century building that had heritage bunting strung out.

 

Bingo.

 

The first view had the tower hidden by a tree, I thought perhaps it didn't have one.

 

But nearer to the church I could see it did have a tower, an a medieval one at that, it looked like an unhappy coupling.

 

I was given a very warm welcome, and the history of the church was explained:

 

the original church was in a ruinous state at the start of the 19th century, and when Army and Naval officers began to have houses built in the area, they wanted a nice fashionable church.

 

So the nave and chancel were taken down, and the current nave put in its place.

 

Built before the English Gothic fervour took hold.

 

The east and west windows have been replaced since the church was built.

 

Would I like to go up the tower? THere's a chance in then minutes.

 

It was hot and my heart really wasn't in it, but for photography, I'll do it.

 

So, we walked round the outside of the tower, into through the bottom door, then up and round and round, as the steps got ever steeper and worn.

 

Would the views be worth it? THey'd better.

 

------------------------------------------

  

THE PARISH OF ST. MARGARET is of large extent, and contains all the lands without the walls on the south side of the city, that are within the bounds of its jurisdiction. It is stiled in some records, St. Margaret's in Suthgate, (fn. 22) and in those of the city, the Borough of Suthgate. (fn. 23)

 

There are two streets of houses in this parish, the one called St. Margaret's-street, leading from Bully-hill to the church, and so on to Borstall and Woldham southward; the other at some distance from it called St. Margaret's-bank, being a long row of houses, situated on a high bank at the north-east boundary of the parish, on the south side of the great London road to Dover, between St. Catherine's hospital in Rochester, and the Victualling-office, in Chatham. These houses are within the manor of Larkhill.

 

THERE are SEVERAL MANORS within the bounds of this parish, the most eminent of which is that of

 

BORSTALL, which was given to the church of Rochester and bishop Beornmod, in the year 811, by Cænulf, king of Mercia, as three plough lands.

 

This manor seems to have continued part of the possessions of the church of Rochester, without any interruption, till the time of the conquest. It is thus described in the general survey of Domesday, taken in the year 1080, under the general title of Terra Epi Rovecestre, i. e. the lands of the bishop of Rochester.

 

In the hundred of Rochester, the same bishop (of Rochester) holds Borchetelle. In the time of king Edward the Confessor it was taxed at two sulings, and now for one suling and an half. The arable land is four carucates. In demesne there are two carucates, and six villeins with three carucates. There are 50 acres of meadow, and two mills of 20 shillings. In the time of king Edward, and afterwards, it was worth six pounds, and now 10 pounds.

 

In Rochester the bishop had, and yet has, 24 plats of ground, which belong to Frindsbury and Borstal, his own manors. In the time of king Edward the Confessor, and afterwards, they were worth three pounds, now they are worth eight pounds, and yet they yield yearly 11 pounds and 13 shillings and four-pence.

 

When bishop Gundulph was elected to this see in the time of the Conqueror, and after the example of his patron, archbishop Lanfranc, separated his own revenues from those of his convent, this manor in the division was allotted to the bishop and his successors.

 

On a taxation of the bishop of Rochester's manors, in 1255, it appears that the bishop had in the manor of Borstalle one hundred and forty acres of arable, estimated each acre at 4d. forty acres of salt meadow at 8d. each, and fourteen acres of salt pasture, each at 6d. which, with the rents of assise, made the total value of the whole manor 9l. 10s. 3d. the repair of the buildings yearly amounting to twenty shillings. (fn. 24)

 

This manor still continues in the possession of the bishop of Rochester; but the demesne lands are leased out by him to Mrs. Vade, of Croydon, in Surry.

 

By the agreement made between John Lowe, bishop of Rochester, and the bailiff and citizens of Rochester, in the 27th year of king Henry VI. concerning the limits of the jurisdiction of the city, according to the charter then lately made to them, this borough and manor of Borstall was declared to be exempt from the precinct of the hundred of Rochester, and the law-day of it, and from all payments, fines, suits forfeitures and amerciaments due on that account, as being within the liberty of the bishop, and his church. (fn. 25)

 

The monks of Rochester priory had several grants of TYTHES, and other premises made to them within this manor and hamlet.

 

Robert Ernulf and Eadric de Borstalle, gave the tithes of their lands in Borstalle to the priory, which were confirmed to it by several bishops of Rochester, and others (fn. 26) In which confirmations they are described, as the whole tithe of Borstalle of corn, and two parts of the tithes of the land of Ralph de Borstalle. (fn. 27) Eadric de Hescenden, with his wife and two sons, entered into the society of the monks of this priory, upon condition, that when they died, the monks should say a service for them, as for their brethren; and the monks were to have for ever the tithes of their lands in Borestealle and Freondesberie, but in corn only.

 

Several parcels of land, &c. lying within the manor or hamlet of Borstall, were likewise at times given to these monks. All these premises continued part of the possessions of the priory till the dissolution of it, in 1549, when they were surrendered into the king's hands, and were settled by him, three years afterwards, on his new founded dean and chapter of Rochester, where they remain at present.

 

This manor, with others in this neighbourhood, was bound antiently to contribute to the repair of the first pier of Rochester-bridge.

 

NASHENDEN is a manor in this parish, which lies about three-quarters of a mile south-eastward from Borstall. In the Textus Roffensis it is called Hescenden, and in Domesday, Essedene.

 

This manor was part of those vast possessions, with which William the Conqueror enriched his half-brother Odo, the great bishop of Baieux; accordingly it is thus entered, under the title of that prelate's lands, in the general survey of Domesday:

 

Rannulf de Columbels holds of the bishop (of Baieux) Essedene. It was taxed at one suling. The arable land is . . . . In demesne there is one carucate, and 19 villeins, with three borderers having three carucates. There are three servants, and 8 acres of meadow. In the time of king Edward the Confessor, it was worth three pounds, when he received it four pounds, now five pounds. Earl Leuuin held it.

 

It appears by the red book of the exchequer, that this estate in the reign of king Henry II. was held by Thomas de Nessingden, of Daniel de Crevequer, as one knight's fee of the old feoffment.

 

In the reign of king Edward I. this manor was become the property of Jeffry Haspale, whose descendant, John de Aspale, for so the name was then spelt, died possessed of Nashenden in the 31st year of that reign, holding it of the king in capite. After which it appears to have come into the name of Basing, and from thence quickly after into that of Charles.

 

Richard Charles, as appears by the inquisition taken after his death, anno 1 Richard II. died possessed of the manor of Naseden, which he held of the king in capite by knight's service, excepting forty acres of pasture and wood, which he held of the lord Grey, as of his manor of Aylesford; whose nephew, Richard, son of his brother Roger Charles, died possessed of it in the 11th year of that reign, holding it of the king in capite, as of his honor of Peverel and Hagenet, by knight's service.

 

Nicholas Haut afterwards possessed this manor, in right of his wife Alice, who was a descendant of the above-mentioned family. She held it for the term of her life with remainder to James Peckham, who on her death, in the 1st year of king Henry IV. came into the possession of it. He obtained the king's licence two years afterwards, to give and amortize to the wardens of Rochester-bridge, and their successors, this manor, and also one hundred acres of pasture, with their appurtenances in Ellesford, the manor then being worth yearly, and above all reprises 6l. 13s. 4d. per annum. (fn. 28) Since which it has continued part of the possessions of the wardens and commonalty of the said bridge, for the support and repair of it. The present lessees of this manor are Leonard Bartholemew and Phil. Boghurst, esqrs.

 

An account of the tithes of this manor will be given, with those of Little Delce in this parish. (fn. 29)

 

There was a chapel at this place, dependent on the parish church of St. Margaret. (fn. 29)

 

GREAT DELCE is a manor which, with the estate now called LOWER DELCE, lies on the eastern side of this parish, about half a mile southward from Eastgate, in Rochester. It was formerly called Much Delce and Delce Magna, or Great Delce, and was given by William the Conqueror to Odo, bishop of Baieux, his halfbrother, under the title of whose lands it is thus entered in the general survey of Domesday:

 

In the lath of Aylesford, in Rochester hundred, the son of William Tabum holds Delce of the bishop (of Baieux). It was taxed at one suling and one yoke. The arable land is . . . . . There is one carucate in demesne, and five villeins having five carucates. There are 12 acres of meadow, wood for the pannage of one bog. In the time of king Edward the Confessor, and afterwards, it was worth three pounds, and now 70 shillings. Godric held it of king Edward.

 

This manor afterwards came into the possession of a family, to which it gave name. Herebert, Gosfrid, and Hugo de Delce possessed it in successive generations. After which it passed to Buckerel, and the heirs of Thomas Buckerel, in the latter end of the reign of king Henry III. held it as two knights fees and a half, of Bertram de Criol. (fn. 30) After which this estate seems to have been separated into parcels, for Geoffry de Haspale held this manor as the fourth part of a knight's fee only, at the time of his death, in the 15th year of king Edward I. as appears by the inquisition taken for that purpose.

 

The next family who succeeded, as appears by the original deeds of this estate, was that of Molineux, descended from those of Sefton, in Lancashire; but they did not keep possession of it long, for by the evidence of an antient court roll, Benedict de Fulsham was lord of it in the 30th year of king Edward III. His descendant, Richard Fulsham, held it of the king in capite, as the fourth part of a knight's fee, at his death in the 5th year of king Henry V. Soon after which this name seems to have become extinct here; for in the 9th year of that reign, Reginald Love died possessed of it, and his successor held it till the latter end of king Henry VI's reign, when it passed by sale to William Venour, whose arms were, Argent, on a fess sable five escallops or, three and two, and who died possessed of this manor in the 1st year of king Edward IV. After which it was within a few months conveyed by sale to Markham, descended from an antient family of that name in Nottinghamshire, in which name it staid but a very short time before it was sold to Tate, who passed it away to Sir Richard Lee, citizen of London, and grocer, who served the office of lord-mayor in the 39th year of king Henry VI. and the 9th year of king Edward IV. (fn. 31) He was the eldest son of John Lee, of Wolksted, in Surry, and grandson of Symon Lee, who was descended of ancestors in Worcestershire, and bore for his arms, Azure, on a sess cotized or, three leopard's faces gules. He lies buried in the church of St. Stephen, Walbrook, his arms are remaining in East-Grinsted church, and in that of St. Dionis Backchurch, in London, with those of several marriages of his posterity; his son Richard Lee seems to have had this manor of Great Delce by gift of his father during his life-time, and kept his shrievalty at this mansion in the 19th year of the latter reign, his son Richard, who was both of Delce and of Maidstone, left two sons, the youngest of whom, Edward, was archbishop of York, (fn. 32) and the eldest Richard, was of Delce, whose only surviving son, Godfrey, in the 31st year of Henry VIII. procured his lands to be disgavelled, by the general act passed for this purpose, (fn. 33) after which his descendants continued to reside here for several generations, but Richard Lee, esq. about the latter end of queen Anne's reign, passed away the whole of this estate, excepting the manor, and forty acres of land, to Thomas Chiffinch, esq. of Northfleet, in this county, from which time this seat and estate acquired the name of Lower Delce.

 

Thomas Chiffinch, esq. died in 1727, and was succeeded by Thomas Chiffinch, esq. his only son and heir, who died without issue in 1775, and by his will bequeathed this, among his other estates, to his niece and heir-at-law, Mary, the daughter of his sister Elizabeth Comyns, who afterwards carried them in marriage to Francis Wadman, esq. of the Hive, in Northfleet, and he is the present possessor of Lower Delce.

 

THE MANOR OF GREAT DELCE, and the forty acres of land above-mentioned, together with a farm, called King's Farm, continued in the possession of Richard Lee, esq. who died possessed of them in 1724, and his grandson, Richard Lee, esq. of Clytha, in Wales, now possesses this manor; but in 1769, he alienated all the demesnes of it, together with King's farm, to Mr. Sampson Waring, of Chatham, who died possessed of them in 1769, leaving his brother, Mr. Walter Waring, and his sister, Mrs. Smith, of Lower Delce, his executors, who are at this time entitled to the profits of them. The court for the manor of Great Delce has not been held for some years.

 

The manor is held by castle-guard rent of Rochester castle; but when the mansion and most part of the lands were sold, as above mentioned, from Lee to Chiffinch, the former expressly charged the whole of that rent on the premises bought by Chiffinch, and entirely exonerated that part which he reserved to himself from paying any portion of it.

 

An account of the tithes of this manor, given to the priory of Rochester, may be seen under the following description of Little Delce manor.

 

LITTLE DELCE, or DELCE PARVA, now known by the name of UPPER DELCE, is a manor in this parish, situated in the high road between Rochester and Maidstone, somewhat more than a quarter of a mile from the former. This likewise, as well as that of Great Delce, was given by William the Conqueror to his half brother Odo, bishop of Baieux; under the general title of whose lands it is thus described in the book of Domesday:

 

In Rochester hundred, Ansgotus de Roucestre holds Delce of the bishop (of Baieux). It was taxed at one suling. The arable land is two carucates, and there are in demesne . . . . . . . with one villein, and five borderers, and six servants. There are 12 acres of meadow, and 60 acres of pasture. In the time of king Edward the Confessor, and afterwards, and now, it was, and is worth 100 shillings. Osuuard held it of king Edward.

 

This estate, on the disgrace of bishop Odo, most probably reverted again into the king's hands; and seems afterwards to have been in the possession of a family, who assumed their name, De Delce, from it, and held it of William de Say, as one knight's fee. (fn. 34)

 

In the reign of king John, this manor was in the possession of Jeffry de Bosco, a Norman; but when that province was seized by the king of France, the lands of the Normans, in this kingdom, became vested in the crown, by way of escheat or seizure, under the title of, Terra Normanorum; thus the manor of Little Delce was seized by king John, in the 5th year of his reign, who gave it to William de Ciriton, the sheriff, for two hundred pounds, two palfreys, and two gols hawks, (fn. 35) on condition, that if the said Jeffry should return to his allegiance, he should, without delay, again possess the same. (fn. 36) But this never happened, and this manor continued in the desendants of William de Ciriton. Odo de Ciriton died possessed of it it in the 31st year of king Henry III. holding it of the king in capite, by the service of one knight's fee. (fn. 37) This family was extinct here before the middle of the reign of king Edward I. for in the 9th year of that reign, as appears by Kirkby's Inquest. Richard Pogeys held this manor. At the latter end of the reign of king Edward III. it was possessed by the family of Basing, from which name it went into that of Charles. Richard Charles died possessed of the manor of Little Delce, in the 1st year of king Richard II. leaving his brother's sons, Richard and John, his next heirs; the former of whom died possessed of it, anno 11 Richard II. and left a son, Robert Charles, who dying without issue, his two sisters became his coheirs, viz. Alice, married to William Snayth, and Joan to Richard Ormskirk; and on the division of their estates, this manor fell to the share of William Snayth, commonly called Snette, in right of his wife, Alice, the eldest of them. Soon after which, Charles and William Snette, for so the name is spelt in the bridge archives, gave and amortized this manor of Little Delce, of the yearly value of six marcs, above all reprises, to the wardens of Rochester bridge and their successors, for the support and repair of the same. Since which it has acquired the name of Upper Delce, by which it is now only known, and it continues at this time part of the possessions of the wardens and commonalty of the said bridge, for the purposes above mentioned. The present lessees of this manor are Leonard Bartholomew and Philip Boghurst, esqrs.

 

The tithes of Great and Little Delce, Borstal, and Nashenden, were given, in the time of bishop Gundulph, to the priory of Rochester.

 

Gosfrid de Delce, together with his wife and children, on their being admitted to be partakers of the benefits received from the prayers of the monks, gave the whole of the tithes of Little Delce, both great and small, to the priory of St. Andrew.

 

Ansgotus de Rovecestre accepted of the like benefit from the church of St. Andrew, and the monks there, in the time of bishop Gundulph, and gave to the church and monks there, all his tithes, both great and small, of Great Delce, and in like manner the whole of his tithe mill, and of a certain piece of land included within the wall of the monks, towards the south, and five acres of land near Prestefelde, and at their request, gave them, on his death bed, cloathing, and they performed service for him as for a monk.

 

Uulmer, the tenant of Arnulf de Hesdine, by the advice of Adelold, brother of Baldwin, monk of St. Andrew, accepted the benefit of that society, and gave to it his whole tithe, worth ten shillings yearly. Robert de St. Armand gave his tithes of Neschendene and Borstelle to St. Andrew's priory. These several tithes were confirmed to the priory by various bishops of Rochester; by Theobald, archbishop, and Ralph, prior, and the convent of Canterbury. They remained part of the possessions of the priory till their dissolution in 1540; three years after which they were settled on the new founded dean and chapter of Roter, where they still remain.

 

The PARISH of St. MARGARET, is Rochester, is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese and deanry of Rochester. The church is situated at the south extremity of St. Margaret's-street; it consists of one nave and two chancels on the south side of much later date than the church. That towards the east end was built and long supported by the family of Lee, of Great Delce, whose remains lie in a large vault under this chancel; but since the alienation of their mansion here, the repair of this part of the fabric has devolved on the parishioners. The chancel, at the east end of the church, belongs to the appropriator, who consequently repairs it. At the west end of the church is a tower, containing five bells; it is entirely covered with ivy to the top of it, which makes a most beautiful and picturesque appearance. Against the east wall, in the south chancel, is the antient bust of a man in robes, with a coronet on his head. (fn. 38) In the reign of king Charles II. a coronet, set round with precious stones, was dug up in this church yard; and the report of the parish has been, that one of our Saxon kings was buried here.

 

Among other monuments and inscriptions in this church are the following: In the chancel, a brass for Syr James Roberte Preess, obt. Sep. 24, 1540. A monument, arms, Head, impaling quarterly a chevron between three hawks belled or, for Francis Head, esq. eldest son of Sir Richard Head. bart. obt. 1678; he married the only daughter of Sir George Ent. In the north window, Argent. three crosses bottony fitchee sable, and argent on a bend quarterly, an efcallop gules. In a pew, partly in the chancel and partly in the nave, Argent on a bend gules, between two peliers, three swans proper. In the nave, a brass for Tho. Cod. vicar, a benefactor to the steeple of this church, obt. Nov. 1465. In the chancel, south of the rectors, a monument, arms, Argent, a right hand couped sable, impaling Lee, for Thomas Manly, esq the third son and heir of George Manly, of Lach, esq. he married Jane, second daughter of Richard Lee, esq. of Delce, and left one only son and two daughters, obt. 1690. In the east window, arms of Lee, Azure on a fess cotized, or three leopards heads gules. In a chapel, west of the Lee chancel, in the east wall, a bust of a person with a crown on his head, much defaced. (fn. 39)

 

At the time of bishop Gundulph's coming to the see of Rochester, and for almost a century afterwards, this church or chapel of St. Margaret, for it is frequently mentioned by both names, was accounted only as an appendage to the parochial altar of St. Nicholas in the cathedral, and the one underwent the same changes as the other; (fn. 40) and Walter, bishop of Rochester, in 1147, confirmed the above mentioned parochial altar, together with this church of St. Margaret, which belonged as a chapel to it, to the monks of this priory, and appropriated it to them. This grant was set aside by bishop Gilbert de Glanville, in the beginning of the reign of king Richard I. who not only separated this church from the altar of St. Nicholas, and divested the monks of all manner of right to it; but on the foundation of his hospital at Stroud about the same time, he gave, in pure and perpetual alms, among other premises, this church of St. Margaret to the master and brethren of it, and appropriated it to them, reserving only half a marc yearly to be paid to the priory, in lieu of the oblations which the monks used to receive from it. (fn. 41)

 

The monks by no means acquiesced in this gift, but seized every opportunity of asserting their right to this church, and after several appeals to the pope from time to time, and confirmation and decrees made in favour of each party, (fn. 42) the dispute seems to have been finally settled in 1255, when the pope adjudged, that this church of St. Margaret, with all its appurtenances, should for the future belong to the prior and chapter of Rochester; accordingly from the above time they kept possession of it.

 

From the time of bishop Walter's appropriation of the profits of the parochial altar of St. Nicholas, with this church appendant to it, to the prior and convent, to the divesting them of it by bishop Glanville, it is likely, instead of a curate being appointed, the duty of this parish was discharged by some member of the society, as it was probably afterwards, whilst in the possession of the hospital, by one of the priests of that foundation; however, within a few years after the convent recovered the permanent possession of St. Margaret's, a vicar was certainly appointed, for William Talevez occurs by that title in 1272.

 

The vicars seem to have had only a yearly stipend from the convent for their pains, for more than a century afterwards; but in 1401, the prior and chapter came into a composition with the vicar for the endowment of this church; in which they agreed, that the vicar and his successors should for the future have, for their maintenance, and the support of the burthens therein mentioned, a mansion with its appurtenances, to be assigned for the vicarage of it, and the accustomed and entire altarage of it, and all the small tithes of the three manors of Nessenden and Great and Little Delce, and of all goods and lands, except the tithes of mills, within the parish, and except the tithes, great, small, and mixed, arising from the lands, cattle, and other things belonging to the religious; and that he and his successors should have three quarters of wheat with three heaps, and three quarters of barley with three heaps, to be taken yearly at their barn, at the times therein mentioned, and the tithes of sheaves, which should arise in gardens not cultivated with the plough; and that the vicar and his suc cessors, content with the above portion, should not demand any thing further of the religious or their successors; and further, that he and they should undergo, at their own proper costs and charges, the burthens of repairing, maintaining, and new building, as often as need should be, the buildings, with their appurtenances, and all other things belonging to the said mansion, with its appurtenances, as well as all things belonging to the celebration of divine services, and the administration of the sacraments and sacramentals to the parishioners, and the finding of bread and wine, lights, books, vestments, and other ornaments necessary to the celebration of divine services, which of custom or right ought to belong to the secular rectors of this church; and also the procurations and subsidies, according to the taxation of his and their portion; but all other things whatsoever, belonging or which in future should belong to this church, as well as all tithes whatsoever, arising or to arise from the lands and possessions of the prior and convent within the parish, even though they should be let or sold to laymen, they the said prior and convent should take and have, who should likewise maintain and repair the chancel, except as before excepted, at their own proper costs and charges. Notwithstanding the stipulation of the vicar for himself and his successors, not to require any increase of their portion from the prior and convent, Edmund Harefelde, vicar of this church, did not consider this clause as obligatory upon him; for in 1488, he petitioned the bishop for an augmentation of his vicarial portion, who decreed, that the vicar and his successors should yearly receive, as the portion of his vicarage, from the prior and convent, five marcs in money; and out of the tithes and profits of this church, appropriated to the prior and convent, four quarters of wheat with four heaps, and four quarters of barley with four heaps, to be taken yearly at their barns of the Upper court, in Harreat, with liberty of entry and distress on the parsonage on non-payment; and he decreed, that the endowment of the vicarage, over and above the portion above mentioned, should be as follows, that the vicar for the time being should have the mansion of the vicarage of this church, with the garden adjoining, for his habitation, which they used to have of old time there, and then had; and all manner of oblations whatsoever within the bounds of the parish, and all manner of tithes whatsoever, as of hay, lambs, wool, mills, calves, chicken, pigs, geese, ducks, eggs, bees, honey, wax, cheese, milk, the produce of the dairy, flax, hemp, pears, apples, swans, pidgeons, merchandizes, fisheries, pastures, onions, garlics, and saffrons whatsoever arising and coming; and also the tithes of sheaves in gardens, whether cultivated with the plough or dug with the foot, increasing within the parish; and the tithes also of firewood, woods, thorns, silva cedua, as well as of all billets, faggots, and fardels whatsoever, within the limits of the parish; and he further decreed, that the burthens of repairing, amending, and new building the mansion, with every appurtenance belonging to it, and the celebration and ministration of the sacraments and the sacramentals to the parishioners, of the finding of bread and wine, and lights to the church, either of right or custom due, should belong to and be borne by the vicar and his successors, as well as all episcopal burthens of the said church, according to the taxation of his portion. But that the burthen of repairing and amending the chancel of the church, as well within as without, as also the finding and repairing of books, vestments, and other ornaments, for the celebration of those divine rights, which of old, either by right or custom, belonged to the rectors of the church, should in future be borne by the prior and convent and their successors, at their own proper charge and expence; and that all other burthens, ordinary and extraordinary, of the vicarage, and to the vicar belonging, by reason of tha same, except as before excepted, should belong to him and his successors, to be borne and supported at his and their own proper costs and charges; saving to the bishop and his successors, a right of augmenting and diminishing this vicarage, and of correcting, amending, and explaining the above decree, whenever he or they should think it expedient so to do; and saving to himself and his successors, all episcopal right, (fn. 43) &c.

 

The appropriation of this church, and the patronage of the vicarage, continued part of the possessions of the prior and convent till the dissolution of the monastery, in 1540, when it was surrendered into the king's hands, who three years after, by his dotation charter, settled this appropriation and vicarage on his new founded dean and chapter of Rochester, where they remain at this time.

 

Adjoining to the north wall of the church yard is a piece of ground, which has probably belonged to the vicars of this parish ever since their first institution here; an antient court roll mentions their being possessed of it in the year 1317.

 

In the 5th year of king Edward III. John de Folkstan, vicar of St. Margaret's, held a messuage, with its appurtenances, adjoining to the church yard, by the assignment of the prior and convent, with the ordination of the bishop, as belonging to the portion of his vicarage; which messuage, with its appurtenances, was held of the master and brethren of the hospital of Stroud, by fealty, and the service of two shillings yearly, and also the payment of twelvepence to them, after the death of each vicar. (fn. 44)

 

The vicars, I am told, now hold this piece of land of the dean and chapter, as of their manor of Ambree, on their paying a small acknowledgment.

 

The vicarage house being from age become irreparable, was taken down, with an intention of erecting a convenient and substantial dwelling in the room of it; for which purpose Mr. Lowth, the late vicar, for several years deposited an annual sum with the dean and chapter, towards defraying the charges of it; and about 1781, erected on this spot a neat and convenient house, built of brick and sashed, with proper offices adjoining, for the use of himself and his successors, vicars of this parish. By an agreement between John Ready, vicar of it, and the dean and chapter, the former, in consideration of several benefits and benevolences done to him by the latter, consented to take an annual payment of 5l. 6s. 8d. instead of the pension in money and corn, granted by the composition made in 1488. Some recompence indeed has since been made for this unjust bargain by the dean and chapter, who have settled on it a larger augmentation than on any other church in their patronage. The vicarage of St. Margaret is valued in the king's books at 10l. and the yearly tenths at 1l. (fn. 45)

 

¶In the survey, taken after the death of Charles I. in 1649, of the church livings within this diocese, by the powers then in being, on the intended abolition of deans and chapters, it was returned, that there were belonging to this rectory or parsonage, a parsonagehouse, two barns, one stable, and other houshings, and also certain tithes, profits, &c. belonging to it, together with certain glebe land, called Court-hill and Court hill marsh, containing together nine acres, and and one marsh, lying in the parish of St. Nicholas, Rochester, called Cow marsh, with the waste ground called salts, containing together seven acres, and all that piece of ground called Upper court, alias Hogshaw, containing one acre; in all seventeen acres, worth together 130l. per annum, viz. the house and lands, 12l. per annum, and the tithes 118l. per ann. all which were let, among other premises, by Henry King, late dean of the cathedral church of Rochester, by his indenture, in 1639, to George Newman, esq. for twenty-one years, at the yearly rent, for Preestfield and Stroud marsh, of 4s. 4d. per annum, and for all the other premises twelve quarters of wheat, heaped, making together the yearly rent of 31l. 1s. 8d. Next the vicarage was, in like manner surveyed, and returned at the yearly value of 30l. (fn. 46)

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-kent/vol4/pp153-182

I am currently trying to revisit all the churches photographed in the first few years of the Kent Churches Project, which means seeing some great and humble buildings, and sometimes surprise that some did not make more of an impact on me first time time round.

 

Why sits in the shadow of the downs, Wye down being nearest, of course, and also beside the Stour. The chuch sits beside the old main road and beside the old college, with the village spread to its south side.

 

All I remembered from my first time was the glass outer porch door, but my overwhelming feeling this time was of space and light in the mighty high nave.

 

-------------------------------------------

 

A very strange church, the result of the collapse of a tall central tower in 1686. The nave of the medieval church survives almost intact, while the chancel has been constructed from the remains of the central crossing of the thirteenth-century church, and a new tower built. The nave is tall and light, and contrasts well with the short narrow apsed chancel that now contains mural tablets to the Sawbridge and Drax families who lived at Olantigh. The reredos is plain early eighteenth-century work and ties in nicely with the dark oak panelling. The choir stalls which stand in the nave were a thanksgiving memorial for the life of President Kennedy. The west window, which represents Christ in Majesty, is set into plain glass and was designed by Gerald Smith in the 1950s. It is an object lesson in how good glass of this period could be.

 

www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Wye

 

------------------------------------------

 

WYE

LIES the next parish eastward from Challock. It is spelt in Domesday, and other antient records, Wy.

 

¶THE PARISH lies in a healthy country, great part of it being in the fertile Ashford vale; the fine pasture down hills of Wye and Braborne bound the eastern side of it, as does another range of hills on the opposite side, the tops of which are skirted by the large extent of woodland, called King's and Challock woods, over which, for near two miles, this parish reaches westward almost to the church and village of Molash. It contains about two hundred and thirteen houses, and fourteen hundred inhabitants; the rents of it are about 4500l. per annum. The soil of it is various, the hills above mentioned, as well as the vale between in the northern part of it, are mostly chalk; the rest of it a red cludgy earth, much intermixed with slints, a wet unpleasant soil; the meadows near the river are very sertile and rich. The town of Wye, in which the fine tower of the church is a conspicuous object, stands in the vale on the river Stour, which directs its course throught the parish in its way to Canterbury; over it here is a stone bridge of five arches, built in 1630, in the room of the former wooden one, at the charge of the county; the river is plentifully stowed hereabouts with pikes. The town, which stands low and damp, and from that and its soil an unpleasant situation, is a neat well-built town, consisting of two parallel and two cross streets, the whole unpaved. There is a large green in it, built round, on one side of which is the church and college close to it, and on the other a house, which was once the gaol to the manor-court, but long since disused.

 

There is a tradition, that the town once stood in the valley, which lies between Wye-down and Crundal, where the hamlet of Pett-street now is, about which there are still remaining several deep disused wells, and this place is still called Town borough, where as that in which Wye town stands is called Bewbridge-borough. About half a mile westward from the town is a pleasant seat, called Spring-grove, built by Thomas Brett, esq. of this parish, in 1674, who afterwards resided in it.

 

The south part of the parish below the town, is full of small inclosures, and the soil deeper. In it is a hamlet, called Withersden, formerly accounted a manor, in which there is a well, which was once famous, being called St. Eustace's well, taking its name from Eustachius, abbot of Flai, who is mentioned by Matt. Paris, p. 169, an. 1200, to have been a man of learning and sanctity, and to have come and preached at Wye, and to have blessed a fountain there, so that afterwards its waters were endowed, by such miraculous power, that by it all diseases were cured. Hence the parish extends itself further southward by a narrow slip, between Brook and Braborne, to Nacolt-wood, once reputed likewise a manor, and the tile-kiln of that name.

 

Almost one half of the parish now belongs to Mr. Sawbridge, his estate here being greatly increased by his father's late purchase of the estates of Bond Hopkins, esq. which consist of Wye-court, Harvile, Coldharbour, Wye-downs, and Nacolt, in this parish; they formerly, I conjecture, belonged to Wye college, and afterwards to the Kempes; they were bought in chancery by John Hopkins. esq. commonly called from his rapacity, Vulture Hopkins, who died immensely rich in 1732, and devised his estates so as not to be inherited till after the second generation, then unborn; but the court of chancery set the will aside, and gave his estates to his heir-at-law, from whom they descended to the above-mentioned Bond Hopkins, esq. In the northern part of it stands the stately mansion of Ollantigh, close to the river, which is here beautifully formed by art to ornament it. Adjoining are the park-grounds, containing near six hundred acres, which extend almost as far as Wye town; and the eastern part of the ridge of hills called Wye-downs, the chain of which reaches to the sea-shore at Folkestone. On the summit of the hill, at the eastern extremity of this parish, is Fanscomb-beech, a tree visible to all the country round, to a great distance; near it was formerly a cottage, of the same name, now pulled down, and the lands laid into Mr. Sawbridge's park grounds. Also near it is Fannes wood, now a cottage, and belonging to him likewise. Both these were formerly esteemed manors of good account. The manor of Fannes, alias Fanscombe, formerly belonged to the master of the Savoy, now to St. Thomas's hospital, in Southwark, and that of Fannes wood, formerly the property of the Kempes, to Mr. Sawbridge.

 

The high road from Canterbury to Ashford leads along this parish, about half a mile distance westward from Ollantigh, on higher ground from whence there is a fine view over the vale beneath and the opposite downs, including the mansion and grounds of Ollantigh, and the town and church of Wye, which it leaves in its course at the same distance.

 

It is by some supposed that the Romans had a highway through this parish, which went on towards Lenham, and so to Aylesford; and the several remains of that nation dug up on Tremworth-down, in the adjoining parish of Crundal, on the side of it next to this parish, will serve to strengthen this conjecture. Wye had formerly a market on a Thursday, granted to the abbot of Battell, which was held in the time of king Henry VIII. It was held in Leland's time, who calls it a pratie market townelet; but it has been for some time disused. The two fairs formerly held here on St. Gregories day, March 23, and on All Souls day, Nov. 2, are now held on May 29 and Sept. 3, yearly, for Welch cattle, stock, &c.

 

There were formerly several families of good account resident in this town and parish, the Finch's, lived at Wye-court, descended from those of Sewards, in Linsted, a younger branch of the Finch's, of Eastwell; the Swans, removed hither from Lyd. Francis Swan, esq. resided here, his house being in the town of Wye, at the latter end of Henry VIII.'s reign. They bore for their arms, Azure, a chevron, ermine, between three swans, proper; the Twisdens, one of whom, Roger Twisden, gent. was of Wye, had a lease of the scite of the manor of Wye, and other premises here, from the abbot of Battel, anno 25 Henry VIII. and the Haules, who were antiently written De Aula five Haule, in Latin deeds, likewise resided here for several generations, till they removed to Maidstone in king James the 1st.'s reign, where George Haule, esq. of Maidstone, died in 1652. Elizabeth his daughter, and at length sole heir, married Sir Thomas Taylor, bart. of that parish. They bore for their arms, Or, on a saltier, five mulets of the field.

 

In this parish Major George Somner, brother to the antiquary, was killed in an engagement with the rebels, in 1648.

 

ON THE PLACE where the famous and decisive battle between king Harold and William, duke of Normandy, was fought in 1066, the Conqueror in the next year began to build a noble abbey, named from that event, Battell abbev; in Latin records, Abbatia de Bello; the royal founder endowing it with exemptions and privileges of a very extraordinary nature, and with many manors and good estates; among which was this Royal manor of Wye, with all its appendages, being of the demesnes of his crown, as the grant expresses it, with all liberties and royal customs, as well here as in Dengemarsh, which belonged to the court of Wye, (fn. 1) as freely as he himself held it, or as a king could grant it. Accordingly it is thus entered in the record of Domesday, under the title of land of the church of Battell, or De Labatailge, as there spelt.

 

¶The abbot of St. Martin, of the place of Battle, holds the manor which is called Wi, which in the time of king Edward the Confessor, and now, was and is taxed at seven sulings. The arable land is fifty-two carucates. In demesne there are nine carucates, and one hundred and fourteen villeins, with twenty-two borderers, having seventeen carucates. There is a church, and seven servants, and four mills of twenty-three shillings and eight pence, and one hundred and thirty three acres of meadow, and wood for the pannage of three hundred bogs. In the time of king Edward the Confessor it was worth no more than twenty pounds and one hundred shillings, and six shillings and eight pence; when be received it, one hundred and twenty-five pounds, and ten shilling of the twenty in ore; (fn. 2) now one hundred pounds by tale; and if the abbot bad had sac and soc, it would have been worth twenty pounds more.

 

Ralf de Curbespina holds one denne and one yoke of the land, of the sockmen of this manor, and pays by custom six pence. Adelulf two parts of one suling, and pays twelve pence; and Hugo de Montfort has two yoke, and pays three hundred eels and two shillings; and in the time of king Edward the Confessor, they paid both sac and soc.

 

Of the twenty-two hundreds, there belonged to this manor, sac and soc, and all forfeitures, which of right belonged to the king.

 

For such was the dignity of this manor, which then consisted of seven sulings, or hides of land, that, as the antient book of this abbey expressed it, with its own hundred, it had jurisdiction over twenty-two hundreds and an half, which belonged to its court.

 

WYE is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Bridge.

 

The church, which is dedicated to St. Gregory and St. Martin, stands at the north-west corner of the town of Wye, and was built by cardinal Kempe, when he founded the college of Wye in the reign of king Henry VI. being a handsome, large building, with three isles and as many chancels, and a high spire steeple in the middle, which stood on four lofty arches, supported by a like number of large pillars. The great chancel was made choir fashion, wainscotted, and seated round for the members of the new col lege. The north chancel was appointed for the burying-place of the Kempes, owners of Ollantigh; and in the south chancel the parishioners of the better sort were interred. According to tradition, it stood antiently on a little hill just at the entrance into the town from the river, and which is now called Boltshill, but was removed to this place, where it now stands, by the cardinal. In 1572, the steeple was burnt by lightning, and though it was soon afterwards rebuilt, under the care of Gregory Brett, then churchwarden, who was a great contributor to the expence of it; for which the parishioners granted to him and his heirs, a vault, in the middle isle, for their burial; yet in 1685 it fell, and beat down the greatest part of the middle chancel, almost all the two side ones, and the east end of the body of the church, by which all the monuments in the north chancel, of the Kempes, and Thornhills, of Ollantigh, were wholly destroyed, and the tombstone which lay over the cardinal's father and mother, broken to pieces, whose epitaph is preserved by Weever, p. 274. The fragments of several of the old tombstones lay for several years afterwards seattered about the church-yard, and some statues and parts of monuments lay at the lower end of the church; but they have since been removed and there are now none remaining. After this, the remaining part was inclosed with boards, at the east end, to make it fit for divine service, and the rest lay in ruins till the year 1701, when a brief was procured for the rebuilding of it, and within a year or two afterwards it was begun, the remainder of the old chancels was taken down, and only the present small chancel built up at the east end, in the room of that where the choir was, and a tower steeple on the south side, between the chancel and the body of the church, with battlements, and four pinnacles with gilt vanes on them. The present building is small, but neat. It consists, of three isles, the middle one having an upper story and range of windows. There is only one small chancel, new built, circular at the east end, which does not reach near so far as the old one, which extended several feet further, Mr. Chamberlain Godfrey's monument, in the church yard standing, as is said, where the altar formerly did. Towards building the steeple and chancel, the lady Joanna Thornhill, the prebendaries of Canterbury, and others, were contributors, and Richard Thornhill, esq. gave the pavement of the chancel. In the steeple are eight bells and a clock, which were completed in 1774. The only memorials of any time remaining, are three in the body of the church, viz. two for the Bretts, and one having the figures, in brass, of a woman between her two husbands, and underneath of several children, and at bottom an inscription, beginning John Andrew Justus, Thomas Palmer q; venustus, &c. In the chancel is a memorial for Mrs. Catherine Matchem, daughter of George Finch, gent. of this parish, obt. 1713; a monument over a vault, in which lie Agnes and Mary Johnton; the former died in 1763, the latter in 1767, they were descended from Sir Robert Moyle, of Buckwell; and a monument for lady Joanna Thornhill, daughter of Sir Bevill Granville, second wife of Richard Thornhill, esq. of Ollantigh, commander of a regiment of horse raised at his own charge, obt. 1708.

 

This church, appurtenant to the manor of Wye, was given, with it, to the abbey of Battel at its foundation by the Conqueror, and was appropriated to it before the year 1384, being the 8th year of king Richard II. In which state it continued till the reign of king Henry VI. when cardinal Kempe obtained the king's licence to purchase the advowson of the vicarage of the abbot of Battel, and settled it on his newfounded college here, as will be further mentioned hereafter; but the rectory appropriate of Wye remained part of the possessions of the abbey till its dissolution in the 30th year of king Henry VIII. when it came into the king's hands, where this rectory staid till king Edward VI. in his 5th year, granted it and the manor of the vicarage, together with the two tithebarns and the tithes themselves, all parcel of the late monastery of Battel, to Edward, lord Clinton and Saye, who reconveyed them back again to the king, within a month afterwards.

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-kent/vol7/pp340-368

Finally I got to see inside St James. It is one of the furthest church from Chez Jelltex, so assurance from the Heritage weekend that it would be open. So with a sigh I set off on the hour long drive.

 

And as you can see, it was open, and was greeted warmly, as I usually am at manned churches, especially on Heritage Day. Proud people are of their churches, the parish and history.

 

St James is as far along the Hundred of Hoo to be nearly in the sea.

 

---------------------------------------------------

 

A small and remote church at the end of the Hoo Peninsula. The usual two-cell Norman church was extended and partially rebuilt in the late twelfth century by the addition of north and south aisles, the introduction of reredos niches for the nave altars and new windows in the chancel. The aisles were demolished in the early nineteenth century, but their blocked arcades are still clearly visible. The reredos niches are both painted with thirteenth-century five-petalled flowers, whilst the southern one also shows the figure of a bearded bishop. There are the remains of two Norman windows in the nave, and a group of thirteenth-century coffin lids. Despite its medieval size the church did not possess a tower until the present one was built in 1905. It tries very hard, and is built in the right architectural style, but the fact that it is shorter than the nave means that it is a rather poor relation to others in the area. Over the south door is an unusual piece of carved stone representing a Sheila-na-gig, or pagan goddess of reproduction, displaying rather more than a lady should!

 

www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Grain

 

------------------------------------------------

 

THE island of Graine, though on the opposite side of the river Medway, and at some miles distance from the rest of this hundred, yet being within the manor of Gillingham, has always been esteemed as a part of it.

 

It is written in the Textus Roffensis, and other antient manuscripts, Grean, Gryen, and Gren, and lies next to the hundred of Hoo, from which it is separated by a small stream; the south and east sides of it adjoin to the river Medway, the latter of them being opposite to Sheerness; the north side of it joins to the Thames, forming that land where those two rivers meet. It is in size about three miles and a half long, and two miles and a half wide, and contains only one parish, called St. James.

 

The water, which separates it from the hundred of Hoo, is called the Stray; the northern mouth of which, next the Thames, is called the North Yenlet, as that next the Medway is called Colemouth, though the whole of it formerly went by the name of Yenlet, or Yenlade, and in very antient times was no doubt, as well as that of the same name between the isle of Thanet and the main land, of much larger size than it has been for a long time past; for even in the time of king Henry VIII. this island appears only to have been encompassed at flood. (fn. 1) This water of Yenlet seems once to have been the usual passage for all vessels from and to London, which thereby avoided the more exposed and longer navigation round the outside of this island, as they did likewise that round the isle of Shepey, by going through the Swale between that and the main land, both which waters are mentioned in several old writings as part of the river Thames. So late as the reign of king Edward III. this seems to have been the most accustomed passage, for in the 11th year of, the strict ward and watch being set, according to old custom, along the sea coast of this county, one of them appears to have been set at La Yenlade in Hoo, and to have consisted of twelve men at arms and six hobelers; which latter were a kind of light horse, who rode about from place to place in the night, to gain intelligence of the landing of boats, men, &c. and were probably so called from the hobbies, or small horses, on which they rode.

 

The island of Graine is in shape nearly an oblong square; it lies very flat and low; the greatest part of it consists of pasture and marshes, the vast tracts of the latter, in the neighbourhood of it, and the badness of the water, makes it as unwholesome as it is unpleasant; so that the inhabitants mostly consist of a few lookers or bailiffs, and of those who work at the salt works, and such like, who have not wherewithal to seek a residence elsewhere. The entrance into this island, from the hundred of Hoo, is on the south side of it, over a causeway across Stoke marshes. The church of St. James, the only one in it, is situated at the northern part of the island, about a quarter of a mile from the shore. There is no village, the few houses stand dispersed, the farthest not more than a mile's distance southward from the church. There are two sets of saltworks, or saltpans as they are called, the one situated close to the water, at the southern boundary of the island, the other on Mr. Davenport's estate of Wall-end, on the eastern boundary of the island close to the Medway. In short, I cannot give a better description of it than in Mr. Johnson's words, in his little book of Kentish plants, intitled, Iter Plantarum Investigationis ergo susceptum, where he gives an account of his journey, July 13, 1629, in search of simples to this island. He says, "Having left our small boat we walked five or six miles, seeing nothing which could afford us any pleasure; upon the walls we were tormented, for it was in the middle of the day, on account of the heat, with an intolerable thirst, Tantalus like, in the midst of waters (for they were salt); nor were we less oppressed with hunger in this barbarous country, where there was not a village near, nor the smoke of a chimney in sight, nor the barking of a dog within hearing, those usual signs of inhabitants, to raise our languid minds to any kind of hope."

 

The commission of sewers, which extends from Gravesend to Sheerness, and up the river Medway to Penshurst, takes charge of the sea walls round this island, excepting those adjoining to Mr. Davenport's estate, which are repaired at no small expence by the proprietor; they are divided into two levels, called the South-west and North-west levels.

 

THE MANOR of Graine was antiently part of the possessions of the archbishopric of Canterbury, where it remained till the reign of king Henry VIII. in the 37th year of which archbishop Cranmer, conveyed all his estates in this parish, together with his right to wreck of the sea to that king. (fn. 2)

 

King Edward VI. in the 5th year of his reign, granted this manor of Graine to his beloved and faithful counsellor, Sir George Broke, lord Cobham, late belonging to the archbishop, to hold in capite, by knights service, his grandson, Henry lord Cobham, being convicted of high treason in the 1st year of king James I. it became forfeited to the crown, and was confirmed to it by an act passed in the 3d year of that reign, (fn. 3) from which time it seems to have remained in the crown till the death of king Charles I. when it appears to have been esteemed as part of the manor of Gillingham, the quit rents of which in this island then amounted to 24l. 10s. 10¼. from the freeholders in free socage tenure; since the Restoration it has been granted as an appendage to that manor, in which state it continues at present, being as such now possessed by Multon Lambard, esq. of Sevenoke.

 

THERE is another manor here, called the MANOR of GRAINE, alias ROSE-COURT, which in the reign of king Edward III. was the estate of the family of Cobham of Cobham, in this county. Sir John de Cobham died possessed of it in that reign, and his son of the same name having together, with Sir Robert Knolys, built the new bridge at Rochester, amortized his two manors of Graine and Tilbury, worth forty marcs yearly above all reprises, to the support of it for ever, (fn. 4) and it continues at this time part of the possessions of the wardens and commonalty of that bridge, for the purposes above mentioned.

 

THERE is a good estate in that part of this island next the river Medway, which consists of several farms, lands, and salt works, the principal of which is called, from its situation, WALL-END FARM.

 

This estate has, from the earliest accounts of time, had the same owners as the manor of Malmains in Stoke, in this neighbourhood. In the reign of king Edward III. it was in the possession of the family of Malmains, from whom it passed into the name of Filiot, and thence into that of Carew, of Beddington, in Surry; and from that family, in the reign of Henry V. to Iden; from which name it was alienated at the latter end of king Henry VIII. to John Parke, whose sole daughter and heir, Elizabeth, carried it in marriage to John Roper, esq. of Linsted, in this county, who, in the 14th year of king James I. was created baron of Teynham, in this county. His son, Chris topher Roper, lord Teynham, (fn. 5) succeeded him in his estate here, which he increased by obtaining a grant of lands in this island, formerly belonging to the nunnery of Minster in Shepey, which were given to it by archbishop Corboil; all which continued in his descendants to Henry lord Teynham, who, on his marriage with the lady Anne, daughter and coheir of Thomas Lennard, earl of Sussex, and widow of Rich. Barrett Lennard, esq. of Belhouse, in Essex, afterwards baroness Dacre, settled this estate, after her life therein, on the issue of that marriage. Lady Dacre afterwards married the Hon. Robert Moore, and died possessed of it in 1755; (fn. 6) on which the fee became vested in Trevor Charles Roper and Henry Roper, the infant sons and coheirs in gavelkind of the Hon. Charles Roper, her eldest son by lord Teynham; but by a decree of the court of chancery, for the sale of this estate to satisfy incumbrances, and an act having been obtained for that purpose, in 1765, it was conveyed to the Rev. Fr. H. Foote, of Charlton, in Bishopsbourne, whose eldest son, John Foote, esq. afterwards succeeding to it, passed it away by sale to Mr. Thomas Lovett, who at his decease devised it to his son of the same name, on whose death it descended to his sister, now the wife of Mr. Davenport, of London, who in her right is at this time entitled to it.

 

The priory of Rochester was in very early times possessed of lands in this island. In 1076, archbishop Lanfranc, in the solemn assembly of the whole county, held by the Conqueror's command at Pinenden heath, recovered from Ralph de Curva Spina, or Crookthorne, sixty shillings rent of pasture (fn. 7) in Grean, which had been taken from that church, and which he immediately restored to it. There were several gifts af towards made to the priory of marshes in this island, as may be seen throughout the Textus and Registrum Roffense; and king Henry I. confirmed to it a fishery in Grean, afterwards called the Niwewere, for which they paid the archbishops five shillings yearly; which rent archbishop Ralf released to them for ever; and he likewise, by his charter, prohibited all persons from fishing in the Thames, before the fishery of the monks of Niwewere, under pain of forfeiture to him if they should be found fishing beyond.

 

Archbishop Baldwin, in the 1st year of king Richard I. intending to erect a chapel and other buildings within the manor of Lambeth, which then belonged to the monks of Rochester, granted to them, in lieu of the land there belonging to the manor, on which the chapel was to be built, and the area lying round it, one bercary or sheep-cote in the isle of Gren, with all its appurtenances, in marsh, lands, wreck, and in all other matters belonging to it, to hold to them as the demesnes of the said manor, free from all service and demand; and he made a further addition, by granting to them the services yearly due to him and his successors for those bercaries or sheep-cotes, which the monks held of him in Gren, which their tenants at all times in future should pay and be answerable for to them. These premises in Gren were particularly excepted out of the exchange made between archbishop Hubert and the monks of Rochester, of the manors of Lambeth and Darent, in the 7th year of king Richard I. (fn. 8) In the 21st year of king Edward I. upon a Quo warranto, the prior of Rochester claimed to have wreck of the sea in the above marsh, which was adjoining to it, for that archbishop Baldwin, at the time he possessed it, and the prior and his predecessors from the time of the said exchange, had beyond memory possessed that liberty without interruption; and the same was allowed him by the jury.

 

All these marshes, lands, and rents, with their appurtenances, which had been given to the priory of Rochester, remained part of its possessions at the dissolution of it in the 32d year of king Henry VIII. when they were surrendered into the king's hands; who, by his dotation charter, in the 32d year of his reign settled them, together with other premises here, (fn. 9) late belonging to the dissolved priory of Leeds, on his new erected dean and chapter of Rochester, with whom the inheritance of them now continues.

 

THE ISLAND OF GRAINE is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Rochester, and being one of the archbishop's peculiars, is as such within the deanry of Shoreham. The church, which is dedicated to St. James, consists of three isles and a chancel.

 

In it are the following memorials and inscriptions—In the middle isle, a brass for William Hykks, and Joan his wife; another for Jonathan Hykks and Agnes his wife; he died in 1494. Memorial for the Godfreys. In the chancel, a brass for John Cardys, who made the pavement, obt. 1452. (fn. 10)

 

¶This church antiently belonged to the nunnery at Minster in Shepey, (fn. 11) to which it was appropriated before the reign of king Edward I. It continued part of the possessions of that monastery till the dissolution of it, which happened soon after the act passed, in the 27th year of king Henry VIII. for the suppression of those religious houses which had not 200l. per annum clear income; of which number this was one. The church thus coming into the hands of the crown, king Henry VIII. in his 36th year, granted among other premises the rectory of St. James, in the isle of Graine, with the advowson, to John Fynch, to hold in capite by knight's service. He died possessed of them, together with five hundred acres of arable, pasture, and salt marsh, in this island; all which he held as above mentioned, in the 4th year of Edward VI. His son, Clement Finch, at length became possessed of the whole of this estate, which he, in the eighteenth year of queen Elizabeth, alienated to Wm. Brooke, lord Cobham; whose descendant, Henry Brooke, lord Cobham, being attainted of high treason, in the 1st year of king James I. forfeited this, among the rest of his estates, to the crown, to which they were confirmed by an act passed for that purpose two years afterwards; (fn. 12) soon after which this rectory, with the advowson of the vicarage, was granted to Sir Edward Hales, bart. who died possessed of it in 1654.

 

How this rectory impropriate passed from his descendants I do not find; but Mr. John Page, of Rochester, possessed it for many years, and at his death, not long since, by his last will devised it to his kinsman, the Rev. Edmund Faunce, of Sutton-at-Hone, whose son of the same name is the present proprietor of it. This rectory is held of the crown, by the yearly fee farm rent of 1l. 2s. 10½d.

 

The advowson of the vicarage of this church passed with the rectory, through the same chain of ownership to Sir Edward Hales, bart. who died possessed of both in 1654; soon after which they seem to have had separate owners, and to have continued so till this time, the late proprietor of the advowson being Mr. Walter Nynn, since whose decease without issue, Mrs. Rachel Ray, widow, his sister and heir, is become intitled to it. It is valued in the king's books at 9l. 11s. 8d. per annum, and the yearly tenths at 19s. 2d.

 

In a taxation made in the reign of Edward III. it appears, that the church of Graine was then endowed with ten acres of arable and two of pasture, worth per annum, 4l. 3s. 4d. and of rents of assise to the amount of 48s. per annum. (fn. 13)

 

In the survey, taken after the death of Charles I. in 1650, of the several parsonages, vicarages, &c. in this diocese, it was returned, that there was in this parish a vicarage presentative, worth 50l. per annum, Sir Edward Hales, patron; incumbent, Mr. Edward Sparke; the parsonage an impropriation, worth 50l. per annum, Sir Edward Hales owner thereof. (fn. 14)

 

Dr. Plume, archdeacon of Rochester, who died in 1704, bequeathed five pounds per annum, towards teaching the poor children of this parish to read.

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-kent/vol4/pp250-258

I used to pass through Hales every time I drove to see Norwich play, from 1984 onwards. There is a backroad way to Haddiscoe then over the marshes to St Olaves and finally via Herringfleet and Somerleyton to Oulton and home.

 

Hales used to have a hospital, used I think for recuperation. Long since closed now and turned into housing, of course.

 

I used to drive through either full of anticipation of the afternoon's entertainment ahead, or go back home either so happy after seeing them win, or in despondency if we had lost. First time I drove to Carrow Road was in the spring of 1984 was to see City play Watford. City won 6-1, and John Deehan scored four. Not all afternoons were like that.

 

I can't remember the last time I drove to Norwich along the 146, to be honest. I know turning right towards Norwich used to be difficult at times, even more so now.

 

A few years back, I went looking for the church in Hales, and seeing signs pointing to another church ended up in Heckingham.

 

St Margaret is just off the main road, up a quiet lane, and yet the local louts find it in their hearts to come here to smash the windows in the chancel. I can't understand it, and after the visit here I was filled with a mix of anger and sadness. In Kent, Elmstone is a remote church, and yet the local youth there find time to smash the windows there too.

 

Inside St Margaret there are a fine selection of wall paintings and Norman arches and fittings, topped off with a thatched roof too.

 

I tried to get a good shot from distance, but the small churchyard made this difficult, hence the leaning tower in one of the shots.

 

------------------------------------------

 

Comparing Suffolk and Norfolk, as I inevitably must, I am afraid that the southern county rarely comes off best, and descriptions of Norfolk churches lend themselves to superlatives. Take Norman remains, for example - Suffolk has some, if you look for them. It has some nice doorways, at Sapiston and Westhall for example, and a Victorian rebuilding of what may or may not have been a Norman apse at Wissington. But Norfolk has more than seventy fine Norman doorways, and the best are all within a few miles of each other to the east and south-east of Norwich. Best of all are Wroxham and Heckingham, but the most complete Norman church in the county, indeed in all East Anglia, is here at Hales, two miles south of Heckingham, and like that church in the care of the Churches Conservation Trust.

St Margaret is extraordinary because so much of its original Norman fabric survives. Indeed, apart from some 13th century windows punched into the apse (a rare example of transitional vandalism!) you wouldn't know anything had happened here since the 1100s. The blank arcading on the apse is superb, and once went all the way around it. Most famous of all, the north doorway, its six orders so similar to the five at Heckingham that they must be by the same mason.

 

I had read several accounts of visits to this church, but all appeared to have been made in summer. Today, in deepest winter, I found it a stark, rather bleak place, overwhelmed by the noise from the nearby Norwich to Beccles road. Perhaps summer foliage absorbs the sound. Some churches, of course, are at their best in the bleak mid-winter, nearby Heckingham for example. But I longed for summer sunshine on those honeyed walls. A good excuse to go back in the summer.

 

Inside, the air was that of the previous day's sub-zero temperatures - it caught your breath as you went in. The interior has the prescribed simplicity of all CCT churches, a neatness and cleanness that is to be admired and imitated. Ahead is the great St Christopher, which is very faded, but the heads of the two figures are very characterful. The figure in the splay of a south wall window is probably St James with his staff. High above, two angels blowing trumpets are tucked into the eaves above where the rood loft once was.

 

There is a good view of the interior from the gallery, and you can also go into the base of the tower itself. The splays of the round windows still have the impress of the basketwork of 900 years ago - an astounding thought. Also ancient is the wooden shelf inside the aumbry on the north chancel wall.

 

The font is relatively modern, only 500 years old! The snooty little lions reminded me of their cousins at Salthouse, although the smiles here are nowhere near as friendly. There is a famous 17th century font cover associated with it - it has the silhouette of the Rector of the day on its base. It is now in safe keeping at Booton, where I had seen it a few months previously, but had omitted to photograph it. A good excuse to go back there, too.

 

Simon Knott, December 2004

 

www.norfolkchurches.co.uk/hales/hales.htm

 

------------------------------------------

 

HALES, or LODDEN-HALES,

Bigot's Manor.

 

By some accounted to be in Loddon-hundred. There were at the survey several lordships in this town: Roger Bigot, ancestor to the Earls of Nofolk, had a grant of one, which Alestan (a thane of King Harold) was deprived of; to this there belonged one carucate of land, and 40 acres with 9 bordarers, and 2 carucates in demean, one among the tenants, and 5 acres of meadow, paunage for 3 swine, one runcus, one cow, &c. and 10 sheep. There were also 13 freemen belonging to the lord's fold, and under his commendation with 40 acres of land, valued at 20s. but at the survey at 40s. this Alestan put himself under the commendation of Alwin de Tedford, in the reign of King William, and was seised of it at the time when the Conqueror gave it to Roger Bigot. But the hundred never saw any writ or livery, whereby it was granted to Alwin. All Hales was fifteen furlongs long, and 12 perches and six furlongs broad; and pays 8d. gelt. (fn. 1)

 

This lordship extended into Loddon, and was held by the Bigots Earls of Norfolk, and by the grant of Roger Bigot Earl of Norfolk, who died s. p. it came to King Edward I. and was given by King Edward II. to his brother, Thomas de Brotherton Earl of Norfolk, and so came to the Lord Segrave, the Mowbrays, and the Howards Dukes of Norfolk.

 

On the attainder of Thomas Duke of Norfolk, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, it was in the Crown, and King James I. on June 17, ao. 1, bestowed it on Thomas Lord Howard, of Walden, and Henry Howard, afterwards Earl of Northampton, from whom it passed to Thomas Howard Earl of Surry, who in the 21 of the said King, April 1, had license to alien it to Anthony Hobart, Esq. and his heirs; Anthony conveyed it in the same year to James Hobart, his son and heir, who, by deed, dated Sep. 12, ao. 12 of Charles I. sold it to Henry Humberston Esq. son of William Humberston, of Loddon by Joan, his wife, daughter of John Smith, of Lanham in Suffolk, which William was son of John Humberston of Loddon.

 

Henry had 2 wives: by Mary, daughter of Henry Yaxley of Beauthorp, Esq. his 2d wife, he had no issue; by his first wife Anne, daughter of Giles Bladwell, Esq. of Thorlow Magna, in Suffolk, was father of William Humberstone, Esq. who married Mildred, daughter of Charles Walgrave of Stanninghall in Norfolk, Esq. who conveyed this manor to Francis Gardiner, Esq. mayor of Norwich in 1685, (son of Francis Gardiner D. D. vicar of Kendal,) and burgess in parliament for that city, in 1695. Stephen Gardiner, Esq. his son, was recorder of Norwich, and died in 1727. Gardiner, bore, gules a chevron, between three griffins heads erased, or.

 

Ralph Lord Baynard was rewarded with a lordship, of which Toke, a freeman (of Stigand, the Archbishop of Canterbury) of French extraction, was deprived; consisting of 30 acres of land, 3 villains, with a carucate and 3 acres of meadow, &c. and 60 sheep; there were 12 freemen under his protection, and of his fold who held 41 acres of land, with a carucate and a half, and 3 acres of meadow: there were also 2 freemen under his protection only, with 18 acres, of land and half a carucate, also one freeman with 30 acres one, borderer and one carucate, and one acre of meadow; the whole valued at 17s. but at the survey at 30s. (fn. 2)

 

A family who took their name from this town, was early enfeoffed of it, and held it under the Lord Baynard. Roger de Hales and William, his son, were living in the reign of Henry II.—Walter de Hales, in the time of King John; and Sir Roger, son of Walter, in the 34 of Henry III. John, son of Sir Roger, in the 22 of Edward I. which Sir Roger, by deed, sans date, confirmed the exchange of lands (between 2 persons) that were held of his fee in Hales; which shows that it was the custom for lords of manors to confirm the purchases, before the statute of Quia Emplores, &c. and sealed with barry of 12, azure and or, on a canton, gules, a lion passant. Sir John de Hales was living, ao. 20 Edward III. and by Catherine, (after married to Roger de Wellesham,) was father of John de Hales, who died s. p. ao. 43 Edward III. and held this lordship of the barony of Fitz-Walter.

 

In the 17 of Richard II. William, son of Edmund de Redesham of Kirkby Caam, conveyed by fine, to Sir Robert de Willoughby, Sir Miles Stapleton, John, son of Sir John de Norwich, &c. the manor of HalesHall in Loddon, one messuage, 4 carucates of land, 24 acres of meadow, 2 of wood, 20 of marsh, and 100s. rent, in Hales, Loddon, Kirkeby, with the advowson of Hales-Hall chapel, purchased by John de Norwich in reversion; Sir George Felbrigg of Tottington, holding two parts of the manor and lands, in right (as I take it) of the widow of Edmund de Reedisham, then his wife, and Joan, widow of John de Hales, holding a 3d part in dower. (fn. 3)

 

Sir Simon Felbrigg, in the 12th of Henry IV. recovered the manor of Hales-Hall by writ of Novel Disseisin, against John Hotot, and held his first court on Tuesday next after the assumption of the blessed Virgin, and it was after settled on his two feoffees, Sir John Howard, and Sir John de Ingaldesthorp, &c.

 

In the 19th of Henry VI. Nicholas Waleys and John Pewk, were querents in a fine, and Henry Walpole, and Margaret his wife, deforciants of 10l. rent, per ann. in Loddon-Hales manor, conveyed to Pewk; and in the 30th of that King, Hugh Croke, vicar of Hale, was a trustee of Thomas Cleymonds, Esq. deceased, late lord.

 

¶After this, it was possessed by Sir James Hobart, attorney-general, and of the privy council to King Henry VII. of whom, and his ancestors, see in Plumstede Parva, in Blofield hundred. His benefactions and good works, testify his charity and generosity; he resided in his manor-house here, which he built for the most part, (and died here,) with the elegant parish church of the Holy Trinity, at Loddon; also a fair bridge over the Waveney river, between Norfolk and Suffolk, called St. Olaves, or Tooley's bridge, with a good causeway to it; (fn. 4) contributed to the rebuilding of the council chamber in the Guild-Hall of the city of Norwich, and to the noble arched stone roof of the cathedral church of Norwich. Sir Walter Hobart was his son and heir, and lord of this manor; sheriff of Norfolk and Suffolk, ao. 1, Henry VIII. in the 20 of that King, he settled this lordship, with that of Chatgrave, Lille ford's, Tilney in Norfolk, and others in Suffolk, as may be seen in Chatgrave, Loddon hundred, on Walter Hobart, Esq. his son and heir. A pedigree of the eldest branch of the family I have here annexed.

 

James Hobart, Esq. sold it in the 12 of Charles I. to Henry Humberstone, Esq. (as is mentioned in Bigot's manor above,) whose son William, is said to have conveyed part of it to Francis Gardiner, Esq. and part to the Lady Dionysia Williamson, relict of Sir Thomas Williamson, Baronet, of Markham Magna in Nottinghamshire, daughter and heir of William Hales, Esq. son of Richard Hales, Esq. who was lady of this manor of Hales-Hall, in 1666, and resided here; she gave 4000l. to the rebuilding the church of St. Dunstan in the East, of London; to the rebuilding of St. Paul's cathedral, 2001l. and was a benefactress to the rebuilding of the church of St. Mary Le Bow, in London, giving 2000l. and at her death, left Hales-Hall to John Hoskins, Esq. her nephew, (who was lord in 1687,) with the impropriated rectory of Loddon.

 

The abbot of St. Edmund of Bury, had a lordship which Frodo held of them at the survey; 9 men, 2 of them were socmen, and 7 more, belonged to the abbot's lordship, and were under his protection only, held 64 acres in King Edward's reign, when there were 2 borderers and 5 freemen, with 6 acres; this was valued with Loddon. (fn. 5)

 

Frodo, also, held of the abbot one acre, of which 2 freemen were deprived; valued at 4d. (fn. 6) Of this Frodo, &c. see in Loddon, which manor extended also into this town.

 

Godric, the King's steward, held one acre and a half, out of which a freeman was ejected: this was granted to Godric on the forfeiture of Ralph Earl of Norfolk, who had a moiety (as lord) of this freeman. (fn. 7)

 

The tenths were 2l. 10s. Deducted 10s. Temporalities of St. Olaves 8d. and of Langley abbey 24s.

 

The Church of Hales was a rectory, but granted in the 4th of Henry I. by Ralph de Chedgrave, and Emma his wife, to William, prior of St. Olaves, probably founder of that priory; and a vicar was appointed on its appropriation to that convent. It was dedicated to St. Margaret, and it appears by the register of Langley abbey, that the prior and convent of St. Olaves at Hering flete in Suffolk were rectors of Hale, and had the tithe of 235 acres of land in Hale parish belonging to Langley abbey, in exchange for 235 acres of land in Loddon and Heckingham, belonging to the priory of St. Olaves. (fn. 8)

 

In the reign of Edward I. the rectory was valued at 11 marks, and the vicarage at 40s. The vicar had then a manse with 30 acres of land. Peter-pence 18d. Carvage 12d. 0b.

 

Vicars.

 

In 1317, Adam de Blofield was instituted vicar, presented by the prior of St. Olaves, and nominated by the Bishop of Norwich.

 

1326, John de Carlethorp. Ditto.

 

1333, Roger de Petengraunt. Ditto.

 

1337, Adam de Bergh. Ditto.

 

1349, John Le Neve. Ditto.

 

1366, William Warren. Ditto.

 

1366, John Stalworth. Ditto.

 

1377, Peter de Wynch. Ditto.

 

1382, Roger Calf. Ditto.

 

1382, John Wandeford. Ditto.

 

1391, Simon Bangot. Ditto.

 

1391, John Bradock. Ditto.

 

1395, John Smith. Ditto.

 

1397, Henry Welden. Ditto.

 

1397, Thomas Coyte. Ditto.

 

1398, Richard Bytering. Ditto.

 

1403, Richard Bangoot. Ditto.

 

1403, John Ousnell Ditto.

 

1404, Walter Jakes. Ditto.

 

1413, William Norwich. Ditto.

 

1417, Thomas Smith. Ditto.

 

In 1458, Hugh Croke occurs vicar.

 

In 1503, I find it served by a stipendiary curate, for 5l. per ann. and he then returned 45 communicants, John Hill being the impropriator; and in 1742, the heirs of Mr. Peter Lawes.

 

¶Here was also a chapel at Hales-Hall, belonging to the manor of the family of De Hales, dedicated to St. Andrew: this, with the hall, stood in the parish of Loddon, and in 1287, it is said to stand in the manor of Wrantishagh, belonging to Sir Roger de Hales, in Loddon parish, and leave was then granted to him, that he might institute the chaplains of it, by the concession and grant of the abbot of Langley, rectors of the church of Loddon, and of John de Feryby, official to William, Bishop of Norwich, the said Sir Roger and his heirs granting to the chaplains all the obventions and oblations, with the small tithes of his court, and that the servant, of him and his heirs having their habitations in the parish of Loddon, shall pay to the mother church of Loddon, the oblations accustomed, and shall receive the sacraments there. (fn. 9) And the chaplains administering in the said chapel, were to pay yearly to the said mother church, in acknowledgment of subjection, all the oblations and obventions given on Easter-day, and St. Andrew's day, and two wax candles of a pound of wax, on Trinity Sunday, and to give security to the vicars of Loddon, for the time being, that they should not say any anniversaries, trentals, or any masses for any parishioners of Loddon.

 

In 1331, Sir John de Hales was patron, and in 1349; and John, son and heir of Sir John, in 1361.

 

Alexander de Hales, styled Doctor Irrefragabilis, who died in 1245, was born here. Hales, Halesworth, Halestead, Alesham and Aylesford, so called, as near to some river or water.

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/topographical-hist-norfolk/vol8...

U.S. Marshals hold a live auction in Sparta, Tennessee, Saturday, Aug. 26, 2017, to sell tractors, trucks, trailers, farm equipment and tools in the liquidation of Gentry Tractor Supply. The sale follows the guilty plea of Jeffery Gentry on Aug. 10 in a $43 million investment scheme in U.S. District Court in Nashville.

 

Photo by Deputy U.S. Marshal Danny Shelton / U.S. Marshals

Finally I got to see inside St James. It is one of the furthest church from Chez Jelltex, so assurance from the Heritage weekend that it would be open. So with a sigh I set off on the hour long drive.

 

And as you can see, it was open, and was greeted warmly, as I usually am at manned churches, especially on Heritage Day. Proud people are of their churches, the parish and history.

 

St James is as far along the Hundred of Hoo to be nearly in the sea.

 

---------------------------------------------------

 

A small and remote church at the end of the Hoo Peninsula. The usual two-cell Norman church was extended and partially rebuilt in the late twelfth century by the addition of north and south aisles, the introduction of reredos niches for the nave altars and new windows in the chancel. The aisles were demolished in the early nineteenth century, but their blocked arcades are still clearly visible. The reredos niches are both painted with thirteenth-century five-petalled flowers, whilst the southern one also shows the figure of a bearded bishop. There are the remains of two Norman windows in the nave, and a group of thirteenth-century coffin lids. Despite its medieval size the church did not possess a tower until the present one was built in 1905. It tries very hard, and is built in the right architectural style, but the fact that it is shorter than the nave means that it is a rather poor relation to others in the area. Over the south door is an unusual piece of carved stone representing a Sheila-na-gig, or pagan goddess of reproduction, displaying rather more than a lady should!

 

www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Grain

 

------------------------------------------------

 

THE island of Graine, though on the opposite side of the river Medway, and at some miles distance from the rest of this hundred, yet being within the manor of Gillingham, has always been esteemed as a part of it.

 

It is written in the Textus Roffensis, and other antient manuscripts, Grean, Gryen, and Gren, and lies next to the hundred of Hoo, from which it is separated by a small stream; the south and east sides of it adjoin to the river Medway, the latter of them being opposite to Sheerness; the north side of it joins to the Thames, forming that land where those two rivers meet. It is in size about three miles and a half long, and two miles and a half wide, and contains only one parish, called St. James.

 

The water, which separates it from the hundred of Hoo, is called the Stray; the northern mouth of which, next the Thames, is called the North Yenlet, as that next the Medway is called Colemouth, though the whole of it formerly went by the name of Yenlet, or Yenlade, and in very antient times was no doubt, as well as that of the same name between the isle of Thanet and the main land, of much larger size than it has been for a long time past; for even in the time of king Henry VIII. this island appears only to have been encompassed at flood. (fn. 1) This water of Yenlet seems once to have been the usual passage for all vessels from and to London, which thereby avoided the more exposed and longer navigation round the outside of this island, as they did likewise that round the isle of Shepey, by going through the Swale between that and the main land, both which waters are mentioned in several old writings as part of the river Thames. So late as the reign of king Edward III. this seems to have been the most accustomed passage, for in the 11th year of, the strict ward and watch being set, according to old custom, along the sea coast of this county, one of them appears to have been set at La Yenlade in Hoo, and to have consisted of twelve men at arms and six hobelers; which latter were a kind of light horse, who rode about from place to place in the night, to gain intelligence of the landing of boats, men, &c. and were probably so called from the hobbies, or small horses, on which they rode.

 

The island of Graine is in shape nearly an oblong square; it lies very flat and low; the greatest part of it consists of pasture and marshes, the vast tracts of the latter, in the neighbourhood of it, and the badness of the water, makes it as unwholesome as it is unpleasant; so that the inhabitants mostly consist of a few lookers or bailiffs, and of those who work at the salt works, and such like, who have not wherewithal to seek a residence elsewhere. The entrance into this island, from the hundred of Hoo, is on the south side of it, over a causeway across Stoke marshes. The church of St. James, the only one in it, is situated at the northern part of the island, about a quarter of a mile from the shore. There is no village, the few houses stand dispersed, the farthest not more than a mile's distance southward from the church. There are two sets of saltworks, or saltpans as they are called, the one situated close to the water, at the southern boundary of the island, the other on Mr. Davenport's estate of Wall-end, on the eastern boundary of the island close to the Medway. In short, I cannot give a better description of it than in Mr. Johnson's words, in his little book of Kentish plants, intitled, Iter Plantarum Investigationis ergo susceptum, where he gives an account of his journey, July 13, 1629, in search of simples to this island. He says, "Having left our small boat we walked five or six miles, seeing nothing which could afford us any pleasure; upon the walls we were tormented, for it was in the middle of the day, on account of the heat, with an intolerable thirst, Tantalus like, in the midst of waters (for they were salt); nor were we less oppressed with hunger in this barbarous country, where there was not a village near, nor the smoke of a chimney in sight, nor the barking of a dog within hearing, those usual signs of inhabitants, to raise our languid minds to any kind of hope."

 

The commission of sewers, which extends from Gravesend to Sheerness, and up the river Medway to Penshurst, takes charge of the sea walls round this island, excepting those adjoining to Mr. Davenport's estate, which are repaired at no small expence by the proprietor; they are divided into two levels, called the South-west and North-west levels.

 

THE MANOR of Graine was antiently part of the possessions of the archbishopric of Canterbury, where it remained till the reign of king Henry VIII. in the 37th year of which archbishop Cranmer, conveyed all his estates in this parish, together with his right to wreck of the sea to that king. (fn. 2)

 

King Edward VI. in the 5th year of his reign, granted this manor of Graine to his beloved and faithful counsellor, Sir George Broke, lord Cobham, late belonging to the archbishop, to hold in capite, by knights service, his grandson, Henry lord Cobham, being convicted of high treason in the 1st year of king James I. it became forfeited to the crown, and was confirmed to it by an act passed in the 3d year of that reign, (fn. 3) from which time it seems to have remained in the crown till the death of king Charles I. when it appears to have been esteemed as part of the manor of Gillingham, the quit rents of which in this island then amounted to 24l. 10s. 10¼. from the freeholders in free socage tenure; since the Restoration it has been granted as an appendage to that manor, in which state it continues at present, being as such now possessed by Multon Lambard, esq. of Sevenoke.

 

THERE is another manor here, called the MANOR of GRAINE, alias ROSE-COURT, which in the reign of king Edward III. was the estate of the family of Cobham of Cobham, in this county. Sir John de Cobham died possessed of it in that reign, and his son of the same name having together, with Sir Robert Knolys, built the new bridge at Rochester, amortized his two manors of Graine and Tilbury, worth forty marcs yearly above all reprises, to the support of it for ever, (fn. 4) and it continues at this time part of the possessions of the wardens and commonalty of that bridge, for the purposes above mentioned.

 

THERE is a good estate in that part of this island next the river Medway, which consists of several farms, lands, and salt works, the principal of which is called, from its situation, WALL-END FARM.

 

This estate has, from the earliest accounts of time, had the same owners as the manor of Malmains in Stoke, in this neighbourhood. In the reign of king Edward III. it was in the possession of the family of Malmains, from whom it passed into the name of Filiot, and thence into that of Carew, of Beddington, in Surry; and from that family, in the reign of Henry V. to Iden; from which name it was alienated at the latter end of king Henry VIII. to John Parke, whose sole daughter and heir, Elizabeth, carried it in marriage to John Roper, esq. of Linsted, in this county, who, in the 14th year of king James I. was created baron of Teynham, in this county. His son, Chris topher Roper, lord Teynham, (fn. 5) succeeded him in his estate here, which he increased by obtaining a grant of lands in this island, formerly belonging to the nunnery of Minster in Shepey, which were given to it by archbishop Corboil; all which continued in his descendants to Henry lord Teynham, who, on his marriage with the lady Anne, daughter and coheir of Thomas Lennard, earl of Sussex, and widow of Rich. Barrett Lennard, esq. of Belhouse, in Essex, afterwards baroness Dacre, settled this estate, after her life therein, on the issue of that marriage. Lady Dacre afterwards married the Hon. Robert Moore, and died possessed of it in 1755; (fn. 6) on which the fee became vested in Trevor Charles Roper and Henry Roper, the infant sons and coheirs in gavelkind of the Hon. Charles Roper, her eldest son by lord Teynham; but by a decree of the court of chancery, for the sale of this estate to satisfy incumbrances, and an act having been obtained for that purpose, in 1765, it was conveyed to the Rev. Fr. H. Foote, of Charlton, in Bishopsbourne, whose eldest son, John Foote, esq. afterwards succeeding to it, passed it away by sale to Mr. Thomas Lovett, who at his decease devised it to his son of the same name, on whose death it descended to his sister, now the wife of Mr. Davenport, of London, who in her right is at this time entitled to it.

 

The priory of Rochester was in very early times possessed of lands in this island. In 1076, archbishop Lanfranc, in the solemn assembly of the whole county, held by the Conqueror's command at Pinenden heath, recovered from Ralph de Curva Spina, or Crookthorne, sixty shillings rent of pasture (fn. 7) in Grean, which had been taken from that church, and which he immediately restored to it. There were several gifts af towards made to the priory of marshes in this island, as may be seen throughout the Textus and Registrum Roffense; and king Henry I. confirmed to it a fishery in Grean, afterwards called the Niwewere, for which they paid the archbishops five shillings yearly; which rent archbishop Ralf released to them for ever; and he likewise, by his charter, prohibited all persons from fishing in the Thames, before the fishery of the monks of Niwewere, under pain of forfeiture to him if they should be found fishing beyond.

 

Archbishop Baldwin, in the 1st year of king Richard I. intending to erect a chapel and other buildings within the manor of Lambeth, which then belonged to the monks of Rochester, granted to them, in lieu of the land there belonging to the manor, on which the chapel was to be built, and the area lying round it, one bercary or sheep-cote in the isle of Gren, with all its appurtenances, in marsh, lands, wreck, and in all other matters belonging to it, to hold to them as the demesnes of the said manor, free from all service and demand; and he made a further addition, by granting to them the services yearly due to him and his successors for those bercaries or sheep-cotes, which the monks held of him in Gren, which their tenants at all times in future should pay and be answerable for to them. These premises in Gren were particularly excepted out of the exchange made between archbishop Hubert and the monks of Rochester, of the manors of Lambeth and Darent, in the 7th year of king Richard I. (fn. 8) In the 21st year of king Edward I. upon a Quo warranto, the prior of Rochester claimed to have wreck of the sea in the above marsh, which was adjoining to it, for that archbishop Baldwin, at the time he possessed it, and the prior and his predecessors from the time of the said exchange, had beyond memory possessed that liberty without interruption; and the same was allowed him by the jury.

 

All these marshes, lands, and rents, with their appurtenances, which had been given to the priory of Rochester, remained part of its possessions at the dissolution of it in the 32d year of king Henry VIII. when they were surrendered into the king's hands; who, by his dotation charter, in the 32d year of his reign settled them, together with other premises here, (fn. 9) late belonging to the dissolved priory of Leeds, on his new erected dean and chapter of Rochester, with whom the inheritance of them now continues.

 

THE ISLAND OF GRAINE is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Rochester, and being one of the archbishop's peculiars, is as such within the deanry of Shoreham. The church, which is dedicated to St. James, consists of three isles and a chancel.

 

In it are the following memorials and inscriptions—In the middle isle, a brass for William Hykks, and Joan his wife; another for Jonathan Hykks and Agnes his wife; he died in 1494. Memorial for the Godfreys. In the chancel, a brass for John Cardys, who made the pavement, obt. 1452. (fn. 10)

 

¶This church antiently belonged to the nunnery at Minster in Shepey, (fn. 11) to which it was appropriated before the reign of king Edward I. It continued part of the possessions of that monastery till the dissolution of it, which happened soon after the act passed, in the 27th year of king Henry VIII. for the suppression of those religious houses which had not 200l. per annum clear income; of which number this was one. The church thus coming into the hands of the crown, king Henry VIII. in his 36th year, granted among other premises the rectory of St. James, in the isle of Graine, with the advowson, to John Fynch, to hold in capite by knight's service. He died possessed of them, together with five hundred acres of arable, pasture, and salt marsh, in this island; all which he held as above mentioned, in the 4th year of Edward VI. His son, Clement Finch, at length became possessed of the whole of this estate, which he, in the eighteenth year of queen Elizabeth, alienated to Wm. Brooke, lord Cobham; whose descendant, Henry Brooke, lord Cobham, being attainted of high treason, in the 1st year of king James I. forfeited this, among the rest of his estates, to the crown, to which they were confirmed by an act passed for that purpose two years afterwards; (fn. 12) soon after which this rectory, with the advowson of the vicarage, was granted to Sir Edward Hales, bart. who died possessed of it in 1654.

 

How this rectory impropriate passed from his descendants I do not find; but Mr. John Page, of Rochester, possessed it for many years, and at his death, not long since, by his last will devised it to his kinsman, the Rev. Edmund Faunce, of Sutton-at-Hone, whose son of the same name is the present proprietor of it. This rectory is held of the crown, by the yearly fee farm rent of 1l. 2s. 10½d.

 

The advowson of the vicarage of this church passed with the rectory, through the same chain of ownership to Sir Edward Hales, bart. who died possessed of both in 1654; soon after which they seem to have had separate owners, and to have continued so till this time, the late proprietor of the advowson being Mr. Walter Nynn, since whose decease without issue, Mrs. Rachel Ray, widow, his sister and heir, is become intitled to it. It is valued in the king's books at 9l. 11s. 8d. per annum, and the yearly tenths at 19s. 2d.

 

In a taxation made in the reign of Edward III. it appears, that the church of Graine was then endowed with ten acres of arable and two of pasture, worth per annum, 4l. 3s. 4d. and of rents of assise to the amount of 48s. per annum. (fn. 13)

 

In the survey, taken after the death of Charles I. in 1650, of the several parsonages, vicarages, &c. in this diocese, it was returned, that there was in this parish a vicarage presentative, worth 50l. per annum, Sir Edward Hales, patron; incumbent, Mr. Edward Sparke; the parsonage an impropriation, worth 50l. per annum, Sir Edward Hales owner thereof. (fn. 14)

 

Dr. Plume, archdeacon of Rochester, who died in 1704, bequeathed five pounds per annum, towards teaching the poor children of this parish to read.

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-kent/vol4/pp250-258

I used to pass through Hales every time I drove to see Norwich play, from 1984 onwards. There is a backroad way to Haddiscoe then over the marshes to St Olaves and finally via Herringfleet and Somerleyton to Oulton and home.

 

Hales used to have a hospital, used I think for recuperation. Long since closed now and turned into housing, of course.

 

I used to drive through either full of anticipation of the afternoon's entertainment ahead, or go back home either so happy after seeing them win, or in despondency if we had lost. First time I drove to Carrow Road was in the spring of 1984 was to see City play Watford. City won 6-1, and John Deehan scored four. Not all afternoons were like that.

 

I can't remember the last time I drove to Norwich along the 146, to be honest. I know turning right towards Norwich used to be difficult at times, even more so now.

 

A few years back, I went looking for the church in Hales, and seeing signs pointing to another church ended up in Heckingham.

 

St Margaret is just off the main road, up a quiet lane, and yet the local louts find it in their hearts to come here to smash the windows in the chancel. I can't understand it, and after the visit here I was filled with a mix of anger and sadness. In Kent, Elmstone is a remote church, and yet the local youth there find time to smash the windows there too.

 

Inside St Margaret there are a fine selection of wall paintings and Norman arches and fittings, topped off with a thatched roof too.

 

I tried to get a good shot from distance, but the small churchyard made this difficult, hence the leaning tower in one of the shots.

 

------------------------------------------

 

Comparing Suffolk and Norfolk, as I inevitably must, I am afraid that the southern county rarely comes off best, and descriptions of Norfolk churches lend themselves to superlatives. Take Norman remains, for example - Suffolk has some, if you look for them. It has some nice doorways, at Sapiston and Westhall for example, and a Victorian rebuilding of what may or may not have been a Norman apse at Wissington. But Norfolk has more than seventy fine Norman doorways, and the best are all within a few miles of each other to the east and south-east of Norwich. Best of all are Wroxham and Heckingham, but the most complete Norman church in the county, indeed in all East Anglia, is here at Hales, two miles south of Heckingham, and like that church in the care of the Churches Conservation Trust.

St Margaret is extraordinary because so much of its original Norman fabric survives. Indeed, apart from some 13th century windows punched into the apse (a rare example of transitional vandalism!) you wouldn't know anything had happened here since the 1100s. The blank arcading on the apse is superb, and once went all the way around it. Most famous of all, the north doorway, its six orders so similar to the five at Heckingham that they must be by the same mason.

 

I had read several accounts of visits to this church, but all appeared to have been made in summer. Today, in deepest winter, I found it a stark, rather bleak place, overwhelmed by the noise from the nearby Norwich to Beccles road. Perhaps summer foliage absorbs the sound. Some churches, of course, are at their best in the bleak mid-winter, nearby Heckingham for example. But I longed for summer sunshine on those honeyed walls. A good excuse to go back in the summer.

 

Inside, the air was that of the previous day's sub-zero temperatures - it caught your breath as you went in. The interior has the prescribed simplicity of all CCT churches, a neatness and cleanness that is to be admired and imitated. Ahead is the great St Christopher, which is very faded, but the heads of the two figures are very characterful. The figure in the splay of a south wall window is probably St James with his staff. High above, two angels blowing trumpets are tucked into the eaves above where the rood loft once was.

 

There is a good view of the interior from the gallery, and you can also go into the base of the tower itself. The splays of the round windows still have the impress of the basketwork of 900 years ago - an astounding thought. Also ancient is the wooden shelf inside the aumbry on the north chancel wall.

 

The font is relatively modern, only 500 years old! The snooty little lions reminded me of their cousins at Salthouse, although the smiles here are nowhere near as friendly. There is a famous 17th century font cover associated with it - it has the silhouette of the Rector of the day on its base. It is now in safe keeping at Booton, where I had seen it a few months previously, but had omitted to photograph it. A good excuse to go back there, too.

 

Simon Knott, December 2004

 

www.norfolkchurches.co.uk/hales/hales.htm

 

------------------------------------------

 

HALES, or LODDEN-HALES,

Bigot's Manor.

 

By some accounted to be in Loddon-hundred. There were at the survey several lordships in this town: Roger Bigot, ancestor to the Earls of Nofolk, had a grant of one, which Alestan (a thane of King Harold) was deprived of; to this there belonged one carucate of land, and 40 acres with 9 bordarers, and 2 carucates in demean, one among the tenants, and 5 acres of meadow, paunage for 3 swine, one runcus, one cow, &c. and 10 sheep. There were also 13 freemen belonging to the lord's fold, and under his commendation with 40 acres of land, valued at 20s. but at the survey at 40s. this Alestan put himself under the commendation of Alwin de Tedford, in the reign of King William, and was seised of it at the time when the Conqueror gave it to Roger Bigot. But the hundred never saw any writ or livery, whereby it was granted to Alwin. All Hales was fifteen furlongs long, and 12 perches and six furlongs broad; and pays 8d. gelt. (fn. 1)

 

This lordship extended into Loddon, and was held by the Bigots Earls of Norfolk, and by the grant of Roger Bigot Earl of Norfolk, who died s. p. it came to King Edward I. and was given by King Edward II. to his brother, Thomas de Brotherton Earl of Norfolk, and so came to the Lord Segrave, the Mowbrays, and the Howards Dukes of Norfolk.

 

On the attainder of Thomas Duke of Norfolk, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, it was in the Crown, and King James I. on June 17, ao. 1, bestowed it on Thomas Lord Howard, of Walden, and Henry Howard, afterwards Earl of Northampton, from whom it passed to Thomas Howard Earl of Surry, who in the 21 of the said King, April 1, had license to alien it to Anthony Hobart, Esq. and his heirs; Anthony conveyed it in the same year to James Hobart, his son and heir, who, by deed, dated Sep. 12, ao. 12 of Charles I. sold it to Henry Humberston Esq. son of William Humberston, of Loddon by Joan, his wife, daughter of John Smith, of Lanham in Suffolk, which William was son of John Humberston of Loddon.

 

Henry had 2 wives: by Mary, daughter of Henry Yaxley of Beauthorp, Esq. his 2d wife, he had no issue; by his first wife Anne, daughter of Giles Bladwell, Esq. of Thorlow Magna, in Suffolk, was father of William Humberstone, Esq. who married Mildred, daughter of Charles Walgrave of Stanninghall in Norfolk, Esq. who conveyed this manor to Francis Gardiner, Esq. mayor of Norwich in 1685, (son of Francis Gardiner D. D. vicar of Kendal,) and burgess in parliament for that city, in 1695. Stephen Gardiner, Esq. his son, was recorder of Norwich, and died in 1727. Gardiner, bore, gules a chevron, between three griffins heads erased, or.

 

Ralph Lord Baynard was rewarded with a lordship, of which Toke, a freeman (of Stigand, the Archbishop of Canterbury) of French extraction, was deprived; consisting of 30 acres of land, 3 villains, with a carucate and 3 acres of meadow, &c. and 60 sheep; there were 12 freemen under his protection, and of his fold who held 41 acres of land, with a carucate and a half, and 3 acres of meadow: there were also 2 freemen under his protection only, with 18 acres, of land and half a carucate, also one freeman with 30 acres one, borderer and one carucate, and one acre of meadow; the whole valued at 17s. but at the survey at 30s. (fn. 2)

 

A family who took their name from this town, was early enfeoffed of it, and held it under the Lord Baynard. Roger de Hales and William, his son, were living in the reign of Henry II.—Walter de Hales, in the time of King John; and Sir Roger, son of Walter, in the 34 of Henry III. John, son of Sir Roger, in the 22 of Edward I. which Sir Roger, by deed, sans date, confirmed the exchange of lands (between 2 persons) that were held of his fee in Hales; which shows that it was the custom for lords of manors to confirm the purchases, before the statute of Quia Emplores, &c. and sealed with barry of 12, azure and or, on a canton, gules, a lion passant. Sir John de Hales was living, ao. 20 Edward III. and by Catherine, (after married to Roger de Wellesham,) was father of John de Hales, who died s. p. ao. 43 Edward III. and held this lordship of the barony of Fitz-Walter.

 

In the 17 of Richard II. William, son of Edmund de Redesham of Kirkby Caam, conveyed by fine, to Sir Robert de Willoughby, Sir Miles Stapleton, John, son of Sir John de Norwich, &c. the manor of HalesHall in Loddon, one messuage, 4 carucates of land, 24 acres of meadow, 2 of wood, 20 of marsh, and 100s. rent, in Hales, Loddon, Kirkeby, with the advowson of Hales-Hall chapel, purchased by John de Norwich in reversion; Sir George Felbrigg of Tottington, holding two parts of the manor and lands, in right (as I take it) of the widow of Edmund de Reedisham, then his wife, and Joan, widow of John de Hales, holding a 3d part in dower. (fn. 3)

 

Sir Simon Felbrigg, in the 12th of Henry IV. recovered the manor of Hales-Hall by writ of Novel Disseisin, against John Hotot, and held his first court on Tuesday next after the assumption of the blessed Virgin, and it was after settled on his two feoffees, Sir John Howard, and Sir John de Ingaldesthorp, &c.

 

In the 19th of Henry VI. Nicholas Waleys and John Pewk, were querents in a fine, and Henry Walpole, and Margaret his wife, deforciants of 10l. rent, per ann. in Loddon-Hales manor, conveyed to Pewk; and in the 30th of that King, Hugh Croke, vicar of Hale, was a trustee of Thomas Cleymonds, Esq. deceased, late lord.

 

¶After this, it was possessed by Sir James Hobart, attorney-general, and of the privy council to King Henry VII. of whom, and his ancestors, see in Plumstede Parva, in Blofield hundred. His benefactions and good works, testify his charity and generosity; he resided in his manor-house here, which he built for the most part, (and died here,) with the elegant parish church of the Holy Trinity, at Loddon; also a fair bridge over the Waveney river, between Norfolk and Suffolk, called St. Olaves, or Tooley's bridge, with a good causeway to it; (fn. 4) contributed to the rebuilding of the council chamber in the Guild-Hall of the city of Norwich, and to the noble arched stone roof of the cathedral church of Norwich. Sir Walter Hobart was his son and heir, and lord of this manor; sheriff of Norfolk and Suffolk, ao. 1, Henry VIII. in the 20 of that King, he settled this lordship, with that of Chatgrave, Lille ford's, Tilney in Norfolk, and others in Suffolk, as may be seen in Chatgrave, Loddon hundred, on Walter Hobart, Esq. his son and heir. A pedigree of the eldest branch of the family I have here annexed.

 

James Hobart, Esq. sold it in the 12 of Charles I. to Henry Humberstone, Esq. (as is mentioned in Bigot's manor above,) whose son William, is said to have conveyed part of it to Francis Gardiner, Esq. and part to the Lady Dionysia Williamson, relict of Sir Thomas Williamson, Baronet, of Markham Magna in Nottinghamshire, daughter and heir of William Hales, Esq. son of Richard Hales, Esq. who was lady of this manor of Hales-Hall, in 1666, and resided here; she gave 4000l. to the rebuilding the church of St. Dunstan in the East, of London; to the rebuilding of St. Paul's cathedral, 2001l. and was a benefactress to the rebuilding of the church of St. Mary Le Bow, in London, giving 2000l. and at her death, left Hales-Hall to John Hoskins, Esq. her nephew, (who was lord in 1687,) with the impropriated rectory of Loddon.

 

The abbot of St. Edmund of Bury, had a lordship which Frodo held of them at the survey; 9 men, 2 of them were socmen, and 7 more, belonged to the abbot's lordship, and were under his protection only, held 64 acres in King Edward's reign, when there were 2 borderers and 5 freemen, with 6 acres; this was valued with Loddon. (fn. 5)

 

Frodo, also, held of the abbot one acre, of which 2 freemen were deprived; valued at 4d. (fn. 6) Of this Frodo, &c. see in Loddon, which manor extended also into this town.

 

Godric, the King's steward, held one acre and a half, out of which a freeman was ejected: this was granted to Godric on the forfeiture of Ralph Earl of Norfolk, who had a moiety (as lord) of this freeman. (fn. 7)

 

The tenths were 2l. 10s. Deducted 10s. Temporalities of St. Olaves 8d. and of Langley abbey 24s.

 

The Church of Hales was a rectory, but granted in the 4th of Henry I. by Ralph de Chedgrave, and Emma his wife, to William, prior of St. Olaves, probably founder of that priory; and a vicar was appointed on its appropriation to that convent. It was dedicated to St. Margaret, and it appears by the register of Langley abbey, that the prior and convent of St. Olaves at Hering flete in Suffolk were rectors of Hale, and had the tithe of 235 acres of land in Hale parish belonging to Langley abbey, in exchange for 235 acres of land in Loddon and Heckingham, belonging to the priory of St. Olaves. (fn. 8)

 

In the reign of Edward I. the rectory was valued at 11 marks, and the vicarage at 40s. The vicar had then a manse with 30 acres of land. Peter-pence 18d. Carvage 12d. 0b.

 

Vicars.

 

In 1317, Adam de Blofield was instituted vicar, presented by the prior of St. Olaves, and nominated by the Bishop of Norwich.

 

1326, John de Carlethorp. Ditto.

 

1333, Roger de Petengraunt. Ditto.

 

1337, Adam de Bergh. Ditto.

 

1349, John Le Neve. Ditto.

 

1366, William Warren. Ditto.

 

1366, John Stalworth. Ditto.

 

1377, Peter de Wynch. Ditto.

 

1382, Roger Calf. Ditto.

 

1382, John Wandeford. Ditto.

 

1391, Simon Bangot. Ditto.

 

1391, John Bradock. Ditto.

 

1395, John Smith. Ditto.

 

1397, Henry Welden. Ditto.

 

1397, Thomas Coyte. Ditto.

 

1398, Richard Bytering. Ditto.

 

1403, Richard Bangoot. Ditto.

 

1403, John Ousnell Ditto.

 

1404, Walter Jakes. Ditto.

 

1413, William Norwich. Ditto.

 

1417, Thomas Smith. Ditto.

 

In 1458, Hugh Croke occurs vicar.

 

In 1503, I find it served by a stipendiary curate, for 5l. per ann. and he then returned 45 communicants, John Hill being the impropriator; and in 1742, the heirs of Mr. Peter Lawes.

 

¶Here was also a chapel at Hales-Hall, belonging to the manor of the family of De Hales, dedicated to St. Andrew: this, with the hall, stood in the parish of Loddon, and in 1287, it is said to stand in the manor of Wrantishagh, belonging to Sir Roger de Hales, in Loddon parish, and leave was then granted to him, that he might institute the chaplains of it, by the concession and grant of the abbot of Langley, rectors of the church of Loddon, and of John de Feryby, official to William, Bishop of Norwich, the said Sir Roger and his heirs granting to the chaplains all the obventions and oblations, with the small tithes of his court, and that the servant, of him and his heirs having their habitations in the parish of Loddon, shall pay to the mother church of Loddon, the oblations accustomed, and shall receive the sacraments there. (fn. 9) And the chaplains administering in the said chapel, were to pay yearly to the said mother church, in acknowledgment of subjection, all the oblations and obventions given on Easter-day, and St. Andrew's day, and two wax candles of a pound of wax, on Trinity Sunday, and to give security to the vicars of Loddon, for the time being, that they should not say any anniversaries, trentals, or any masses for any parishioners of Loddon.

 

In 1331, Sir John de Hales was patron, and in 1349; and John, son and heir of Sir John, in 1361.

 

Alexander de Hales, styled Doctor Irrefragabilis, who died in 1245, was born here. Hales, Halesworth, Halestead, Alesham and Aylesford, so called, as near to some river or water.

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/topographical-hist-norfolk/vol8...

A round towered church with a spire; somewhat unusual I imagine. Someone might like to correct me on that and I find its quite common.

 

I had seen shots of St George taken from the air by my Flickr friend, John Fielding. I decided to see if any of the churches he had snapped were near to my route to Cambridge, and found they were.

 

I did not think of going to Shimpling this day, but as this and Frenze are under the care of the Church Conservation Trust, an information board at the latter said I should go to the former if I enjoyed Frenze.

 

So I did.

 

Driving through Diss, trying to program the sat nav, easy as the main road through the town, under the railway bridge was a solid line of traffic, I only hoped that Shimpling would not be back the way I had just come.

 

The route took me through some of the narrow streets of the town centre, a place to go back to to explore I think, but my route took me out north through the modern houses then into the flat countryside of south Norfolk.

 

I arrived in Shimpling, a few houses and farms; where could the church be, and just as I was about to stop and annoy the lorry behind, I saw the information board at the start of the farm track leading to St George.

 

------------------------------------------

 

.

St George is a familiar sight to drivers between Ipswich and Norwich, off in the fields near Dickleburgh. A substantial, landmark church; and yet it is redundant. Coming from Suffolk, where the local Anglican Diocese goes out of its way to avoid redundancies if it can, Shimpling's redundancy seemed careless. This is not a tiny village, and if drawn into a group with Dickleburgh could surely have sustained a monthly service or so. Probably, if it arose nowadays, St George would not be declared redundant. From the point of view of the building, of course, it was both a blessing and a mercy, as the church is now in the capable, caring hands of the Churches Conservation Trust.

 

The setting of St George just to the south of its village is superb. A cart track leads up from a farm, difficult of access at the best of times, but suicide on this day when the snow still lay deep in the ruts, the mud sucking at our boots. If we had attempted to drive it then I guess the tractor would be getting to us about now. The keyholders both live about a mile off, but the walk was worth it.

 

St George is perhaps more typical of Suffolk than Norfolk, a rural church made opulent by the wealth of the later years of the 15th century. Then came the font, the benches, the roof, the surviving scattering of medieval angel glass. Otherwise, the feeling is of the much-maligned Victorians, who loved churches and wanted this one restored to its former glory. Geoffery Millard, rector through those times, has his memorial in the chancel, but all around it is the building that he would recognise instantly if he stepped into it today.

 

Amber light filled the space beneath the tower, and I was glad I was here, in this silent frozen space, this touchstone to the long generations. Some curiosities: under the benches at the west end, there is a trap door. Inside, some of the original medieval tiles have survived the Victorians; they merely built a wooden platform over them. Then, a wholly secular brass inscription of 1591 to Anthony le Grys is set in the mddle of the nave - but the inlay is the wrong size and shape, and so it must come originally from somewhere else. A small hole in the north wall of the sanctuary is surely too tiny to have been an aumbry. And yet, it is set back to take a door, and appears once to have had some sort of wooden tympanum set over it. Could it have been a squint from a shrine chapel? Or even from an anchorite's cell?

 

Incidentally, another curious thing: There is a Shimpling in Suffolk as well, and the churches of both are dedicated to St George, an otherwise unusual East Anglian dedication. The reason appears to be that the enthusiastic 18th century antiquarians, ruttling around in the Diocesan records at Norwich, accidentally applied the dedication of the Suffolk church to both, dedications having fallen out of use for two hundred years or more.

 

Simon Knott, March 2005

  

www.norfolkchurches.co.uk/shimpling/shimpling.htm

 

-----------------------------------------

 

SHIMPLING

¶Is bounded on the east by Dickleburgh, on the west by Burston, on the south by Thelton, and on the north by Gissing. It is a rectory appendant to the manor, and being discharged of first fruits and tenths, is capable of augmentation. The rectory hath a house and 16 acres of glebe: Norwich Domesday says, that Richard de Boyland was then patron, that the rector had a house and xv. acres of land; that the procurations were then vi.s. viii.d. and the synodals xxii.d.

 

Rectors.

 

1305, 6 kal. Dec. Robert de Boswyle, accolite, William de Schympling.

 

1328, 7 kal. Mar. Will. de Schymplyng, accolite. Roger, son of Will. de Shympling.

 

1338, 12 July, John de Cherchegate, priest to St. George's church at Shympling. Ditto.

 

1349, Robert Sampson, priest. Emma, late wife of Roger de Schymplyng.

 

1361, 13 Sept. Ric. de Halle, priest. Ditto.

 

1362, 21 Sept. Peter Scott. Ditto.

 

1386, 19 April, Tho. de Welles. Thomas de Glemesford.

 

1393, 28 March, Welles changed this with John Mulle for Mildeston rectory, in Sarum diocese. Roger de Ellingham and Joan Hardegrey.

 

1396, 29 March, Mulle exchanged with Will. Stone for Ludenham in Kent. Ditto.

 

1401, 29 Aug. John Drury, priest, who resigned Watton vicarage in exchange for this. Roger de Elyngham.

 

1408, 7 Aug. John Cok of Illington, priest.

 

1421, 8 Octob. Reginald Pepper of Berton Bendysch, priest, on the resignation of Cok. Ditto.

 

1421, 6 March, Tho. Young, on Pepper's resignation. William, son of Roger de Elyngham of Elyngham, near Bungey.

 

1422, 22 March, Rich. Senyngwell, on Young's resignation. Ditto.

 

1430, 20 Sept. Walter Skyde of Disse. Lapse.

 

1432, 23 Octob. Thomas Wright. Lapse.

 

1434, 14 Dec. John Grygby. William Elyngham of Elyngham by Bungey.

 

1437, 12 Octob. Richard de Schymplyng, on Grygby's resignation. William Elyngham of Elyngham by Bungey.

 

1449, 31 Jan. Robert Caade, resigned to John Beest, in exchange for Winterburn Basset rectory, in Wiltshire. Ditto.

 

1451, 21 April, Thomas Messinger, on Beest's death. Ditto.

 

1504, John Odiham.

 

1507, 4 Aug. James Galle. (fn. 1) Lapse.

 

1525, 19 Octob. Thomas Warde. Thomas Shardelowe, Esq.

 

1536, 26 March, John Lanman, (fn. 2) on Ward's death. John Aldham, lord of the moiety of Elyngham's manor here, by turns.

 

1563, 26 June, Thomas Oxford, alias Farmor, A. M. Stephen Shardelowe, Gent.

 

1572, 24 Nov. William Luffkyn, on Oxford's resignation. Stephen Shardelowe, and John Aldham, patrons.

 

1609, 1 Aug. Nicholas Colte. (fn. 3) John Sherdelowe.

 

1642, Jeremiah Gowen. (fn. 4) Adrian Mott of Braintree, and Margaret Carter of Stratford in Essex.

 

1649, Thomas Cole, (fn. 5) clerk, A. M. John and James Mott, Gent.

 

1684, 9 Dec. John Rand. John Buxton, Esq. united to Burston.

 

1706, 1 Jan. John Calver, on Rand's death. Robert Buxton, Esq. united to Gissing.

 

1729, The Rev. Mr. Thomas Buxton, the present rector, [1736,] united to Thorp-Parva.

 

The Church hath a steeple, round at bottom, and octangular at top, and four small bells; it is leaded, though the chancel is thatched, and the north porch tiled. It is dedicated to St. George, (fn. 6) whose effigies, with his shield, viz. arg. a plain cross gul. is to be seen in a south window of the chancel, and seems to be as old as the building, which in all appearance was in the beginning of the thirteenth century, (though the steeple is much older,) for then William de Shimplyng was lord and patron, whose arms still remain under this effigies, viz. arg. a chief gul. a fess between six de-lises sab.

 

Here was a Gild in honour of the same saint, (fn. 7) and a Chapel dedicated to St. Mary, which stood in Shimpling Hithe, of which there are no remains. This had some endowment, for Girrard the Prior, (fn. 8) and his Chapter at Norwich, with the Bishop's consent, granted to Richard the chaplain of Shimpling, 7 roods of meadow in Roreker in Shimpling, &c. in perpetual alms, paying yearly 5d. at the high altar in the cathedral, to which John Pierson of Gissing, and others, were witnesses, (fn. 9) so that this must be before 1201, for in that year Gerrard the Prior died; this was down before the general dissolution, for I meet with no grant of it at that time.

 

St. George and the dragon, and the arms of Shimpling, are carved on the font; the chancel is covered with large grave-stones, all disrobed of their brasses; several of them were laid over the rectors, as appear from the chalice and wafer upon them, that being the symbol of a priest; the rest that had arms, I take to be laid over the Shimplings and the Shardelows. The arms of

 

Shardelow are, arg. a chevron gul. between three croslets fitchee, az. Crest, a plume of feathers arg.

 

On a small stone towards the west end of the church:

 

Richard Lesingham, ob. 5° die. Octob. Anno Dni. 1705, Ætatis suæ - - - -

 

Here let him rest, Memory stile him dear, 'Till our Redeemer Shall in the clouds appear.

 

On a marble near the pulpit: arms of

 

Potter, sab. a fess between three mullets arg. Crest, an elephant's head erased arg. gutte de sang.

 

Here in expectation of a joyful resurrection, resteth the body of Cicill Potter, Gent. who dyed Jan. the 29th, 1693, aged 70 years.

 

In a window:

 

Gloria in Errelsis Deo.

 

Here are twelve penny loaves given to as many poor people, by the rector and church-wardens, on the first Sunday in every month, there being land tied for it.

 

In the Confessor's time Torbert held this manor of Stigand, it being then worth 20s. of whom the part in Gissing was also held by another freeman, and was then of 5s. value, but was risen to ten in the Conqueror's time, though Shimpling continued at the same value. This, as one manor, was given by the Conqueror to Roger Bygod, who gave it to Robert de Vais, (de Vallibus, or Vaus,) it being then a mile and a quarter long, and a mile broad. (fn. 10) The whole paid 5d. Geld. There was then a church and 10 acres glebe, valued at 12d. and several other manors extended hither, of which I shall afterwards treat in their proper places. The Vaises held it of Bygod's successors, till 1237, in which year Oliver de Vallibus (fn. 11) granted it to Richard de Rupella, (afterwards called Rokele,) settling it on him and his heirs by fine, (fn. 12) to be held of him by knight's service; he died in 1287, at which time he held it of John de Vallibus. This Richard granted it to be held of him and his heirs by Richard de Boyland, in trust for Ralph Carbonell, (fn. 13) who held it of Maud, wife of William de Roos, who was daughter and coheir of John de Vaux. This Ralph conveyed it to

 

Roger de Schymplyng, to be held by knight's service of Richard Rokeles's heirs; and in 1280, the said Roger (fn. 14) was lord, the manor being settled upon him, and Emma his wife, in tail; after their deaths it came to William de Schympling, (fn. 15) their son, who held it of Richard Rokell at half a fee, he of the Earl-Marshal, and he of the King in capite. This William married Margaret de Tacolveston, (fn. 16) on whom the manor was settled for life in 1303, it being then held of William de Roos and Maud his wife, and Petronell de Vaux, her sister. This William purchased a great part of the town of divers persons. He had a son named Roger, who presented in 1328, and held it till about 1345, when he was dead, and Emma his wife had it, at whose death it fell divisible between their three daughters: (fn. 17)

 

Isabel, married to John Kirtling, to whom this manor was allotted;

 

Joan, who had Moring-Thorp manor, and

 

Katerine, married to William de Ellyngham, who had Dalling manor in Flordon. Isabell had issue, Roger and Emma, who left none, so that this manor and advowson descended to Roger, son of William de Elyngham and Katerine his wife, daughter of Roger de Schymplyng, which said Roger de Elyngham held it in 1401, by half a fee, of John Copledick, Knt. who held it of the Lady Roos, she of Thomas Mowbray, and he in capite of the King. How it went from the Elynghams I do not know, but imagine it must be by female heiresses; for in 1521, Humphry Wyngfield had a moiety of it, and John Aldham had another part; he died in 1558, and was buried in this chancel, leaving his part to John his son, (fn. 18) who held it jointly with Bonaventure Shardelowe, in 1571; Mr. Aldham had a fourth part of the manor, and a third turn, and Mr. Shardelow three parts and two turns. The patronage and manor was in Mr. John Motte, who was buried October 7, 1640, and John Motte, and his brother James, presented in 1649. It looks as if the Mottes had Aldham's part, and after purchased Shardelow's of Mr. John Shardelowe, who held it till 1611, together with Dalling manor in Florden, which was held of Shimpling manor. He conveyed it to Edmund Skipwith, Esq. and Antony Barry, Gent. and they to Thomas Wales, and John Basely, Gent. who conveyed it to the Motts, from whom, I am apt to think, it came to the Proctors, for John Buxton of St. Margaret's in South Elmham had it, in right of his wife, who was kinswoman and heiress of Mr. Proctor, rector of Gissing; after this it came to Robert Buxton, Esq. who died and left it to Elizabeth his wife, who is since dead, and Elizabeth Buxton, their only daughter, a minor, is now [1736] lady and patroness.

 

The Leet belongs to the manor, and the fine is at the lord's will.

 

As to the other parts of this village, (fn. 19) they being parts of the manors of Titshall, Fersfield, and Brisingham, it is sufficient to observe, that they went with those manors, except that part held by Fulco, of which the register called Pinchbek, fo. 182, says that Fulco or Fulcher held of the Abbot in Simplingaham and Gissing, 70 acres, and 4 borderers, being infeoffed by Abbot Baldwin in the time of the Conqueror; this, about Edward the First's time, was in Sir John Shardelowe, a judge in that King's reign, in whose family it continued till 1630, when it was sold to Mr. Mott. The seat of the Shardelows is now called the Place, and is the estate of the Duke of Grafton; and (as I am informed) formerly belonged to Isaac Pennington, (fn. 20) alderman of London, one of those rebels that sat as judges at the King's trial, for which villainy he was knighted. He lived to the Restoration, when, according to his deserts, his estates were seized as forfeited to King Charles II. who gave this to the Duke of Grafton; upon the forfeiture, the copyhold on the different manors were also seized, which is the reason that the quitrents to Gissing, Titshall, &c. are so large, they being made so when the Lords regranted them.

 

¶I have seen an ancient deed made by John Camerarius, or Chambers, of Shimpling, to Richard de Kentwell, clerk, and Alice his wife, and their heirs, of 3 acres of land in this town, witnessed by Sir Gerard de Wachesam, Knt. and others, which is remarkable, for its never having any seal, and its being dated at Shimpling in the churchyard, on Sunday next before Pentecost, anno 1294. (fn. 21) This shews us that seals (as Lambard justly observes (fn. 22) ) were not in common use at this time; and, therefore, to make a conveyance the most solemn and publick that could be, the deed was read to the parish, after service, in the churchyard, that all might know it, and be witnesses, if occasion required. The Saxons used no seals, only signed the mark of a cross to their instruments, to which the scribe affixed their names, by which they had a double meaning; first, to denote their being Christians, and then, as such, to confirm it by the symbol of their faith. The first sealed charter we meet with is that of Edward the Confessor to Westminster abbey, which use he brought with him from Normandy, where he was brought up; and for that reason it was approved of by the Norman Conqueror; though sealing grew into common use by degrees, the King at first only using it, then some of the nobility, after that the nobles in general, who engraved on their seals their own effigies covered with their coat armour; after this, the gentlemen followed, and used the arms of their family for difference sake. But about the time of Edward III. seals became of general use, and they that had no coat armour, sealed with their own device, as flowers, birds, beasts, or whatever they chiefly delighted in, as a dog, a hare, &c.; and nothing was more common than an invention or rebus for their names, as a swan and a tun for Swanton, a hare for Hare, &c.; and because very few of the commonality could write, (all learning at that time being among the religious only,) the person's name was usually circumscribed on his seal, so that at once they set both their name and seal, which was so sacred a thing in those days, that one man never used another's seal, without its being particularly taken notice of in the instrument sealed, and for this reason, every one carried their seal about them, either on their rings, or on a roundel fastened sometimes to their purse, sometimes to their girdle; nay, oftentimes where a man's seal was not much known, he procured some one in publick office to affix theirs, for the greater confirmation: thus Hugh de Schalers, (or Scales,) a younger son of the Lord Scales's family, parson of Harlton in Cambridgeshire, upon his agreeing to pay the Prior of Bernewell 30s. for the two third parts of the tithe corn due to the said Prior out of several lands in his parish, because his seal was known to few, he procured the archdeacon's official to put his seal of office, for more ample confirmation: (fn. 23) and when this was not done, nothing was more common than for a publick notary to affix his mark, which being registered at their admission into their office, was of as publick a nature as any seal could be, and of as great sanction to any instrument, those officers being always sworn to the true execution of their office, and to affix no other mark, than that they had registered, to any instrument; so their testimony could be as well known by their mark, as by their name; for which reason they were called Publick Notaries, Nota in Latin signifying a mark, and Publick because their mark was publickly registered, and their office was to be publick to all that had any occasion for them to strengthen their evidence. There are few of these officers among us now, and such as we have, have so far varied from the original of their name, that they use no mark at all, only add N. P. for Notary Publick, at the end of their names. Thus also the use of seals is now laid aside, I mean the true use of them, as the distinguishing mark of one family from another, and of one branch from another; and was it enjomed by publick authority, that every one in office should, upon his admission, choose and appropriate to himself a particular seal, and register a copy of it publickly, and should never use any other but that alone, under a severe penalty, I am apt to think, in a short time we should see the good effects of it; (fn. 24) for a great number of those vagabonds that infest our country under pretence of certificates signed by proper magistrates, (whose hands are oftener counterfeit than real,) would be detected; for though it is easy for an ill-designing person to forge a handwriting, it is directly the contrary as to a seal; and though it is in the power of all to know the magistrates names, it is but very few of such sort of people that could know their seals; so that it would in a great measure (if not altogether) put a stop to that vile practice; and it would be easy for every magistrate to know the seals of all others, if they were entered properly, engraved, and published: and it might be of service, if all the office seals in England (or in those foreign parts that any way concern the realm) were engraved and published, for then it would be in every one's power to know whether the seals of office affixed to all passes, &c. were genuine or no; for it is well known that numbers travel this nation, under pretence of passes from our consuls and agents abroad, and sometimes even deceive careful magistrates with the pretended hands and seals of such, it being sometimes impossible for them to know the truth, which by this means would evidently appear. And thus much, and a great deal more, may be said to encourage the true and original use of that wise Conqueror's practice, who can scarce be said to put any thing into use but what he found was of advantage to his government.

 

This rectory is in Norfolk archdeaconry, and Redenhall deanery: it had 69 communicants in 1603, and hath now [1736] 23 houses, and about 130 inhabitants. The town is valued at 300l. per annum. (fn. 25) Here are 3 acres of town land, one piece is a small pightle abutting on the land of Robert Leman, Esq. another piece is called Susan's pightle, lying in Gissing, and was given by a woman of this name, to repair the church porch, (as I am informed,) the other piece lies in Diss Heywode, and pays an annual rent of 5s.

 

The Commons are Kett's Fen, which contains about 4 acres; Pound Green, 1 acre; Hall Green, 4 acres; the Bottom, 6 acres; and the Lower Green, 6 acres.

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/topographical-hist-norfolk/vol1...

Heritage Weekend is more than just the Saturday. In fact its more than one weekend. And the website for the weekend listed many intersting places to go, but few in east Kent on the Sunday, but St Margaret's being open was one of them.

 

So, after we had left St Mildred in Canterbury, we drove up the M2, and then through the usual strip malls and urban spread that is the Medway Towns.

 

The sat nav took us down narrow streets, across a main road, and up a slight hill, and announced we had arrived.

 

Nothing churchy leaped out at me.

 

I thought maybe down the narrow lane in front. It was then I saw the wall.

 

The wall looked chuchy. And beyond was an early 19th century building that had heritage bunting strung out.

 

Bingo.

 

The first view had the tower hidden by a tree, I thought perhaps it didn't have one.

 

But nearer to the church I could see it did have a tower, an a medieval one at that, it looked like an unhappy coupling.

 

I was given a very warm welcome, and the history of the church was explained:

 

the original church was in a ruinous state at the start of the 19th century, and when Army and Naval officers began to have houses built in the area, they wanted a nice fashionable church.

 

So the nave and chancel were taken down, and the current nave put in its place.

 

Built before the English Gothic fervour took hold.

 

The east and west windows have been replaced since the church was built.

 

Would I like to go up the tower? THere's a chance in then minutes.

 

It was hot and my heart really wasn't in it, but for photography, I'll do it.

 

So, we walked round the outside of the tower, into through the bottom door, then up and round and round, as the steps got ever steeper and worn.

 

Would the views be worth it? THey'd better.

 

------------------------------------------

  

THE PARISH OF ST. MARGARET is of large extent, and contains all the lands without the walls on the south side of the city, that are within the bounds of its jurisdiction. It is stiled in some records, St. Margaret's in Suthgate, (fn. 22) and in those of the city, the Borough of Suthgate. (fn. 23)

 

There are two streets of houses in this parish, the one called St. Margaret's-street, leading from Bully-hill to the church, and so on to Borstall and Woldham southward; the other at some distance from it called St. Margaret's-bank, being a long row of houses, situated on a high bank at the north-east boundary of the parish, on the south side of the great London road to Dover, between St. Catherine's hospital in Rochester, and the Victualling-office, in Chatham. These houses are within the manor of Larkhill.

 

THERE are SEVERAL MANORS within the bounds of this parish, the most eminent of which is that of

 

BORSTALL, which was given to the church of Rochester and bishop Beornmod, in the year 811, by Cænulf, king of Mercia, as three plough lands.

 

This manor seems to have continued part of the possessions of the church of Rochester, without any interruption, till the time of the conquest. It is thus described in the general survey of Domesday, taken in the year 1080, under the general title of Terra Epi Rovecestre, i. e. the lands of the bishop of Rochester.

 

In the hundred of Rochester, the same bishop (of Rochester) holds Borchetelle. In the time of king Edward the Confessor it was taxed at two sulings, and now for one suling and an half. The arable land is four carucates. In demesne there are two carucates, and six villeins with three carucates. There are 50 acres of meadow, and two mills of 20 shillings. In the time of king Edward, and afterwards, it was worth six pounds, and now 10 pounds.

 

In Rochester the bishop had, and yet has, 24 plats of ground, which belong to Frindsbury and Borstal, his own manors. In the time of king Edward the Confessor, and afterwards, they were worth three pounds, now they are worth eight pounds, and yet they yield yearly 11 pounds and 13 shillings and four-pence.

 

When bishop Gundulph was elected to this see in the time of the Conqueror, and after the example of his patron, archbishop Lanfranc, separated his own revenues from those of his convent, this manor in the division was allotted to the bishop and his successors.

 

On a taxation of the bishop of Rochester's manors, in 1255, it appears that the bishop had in the manor of Borstalle one hundred and forty acres of arable, estimated each acre at 4d. forty acres of salt meadow at 8d. each, and fourteen acres of salt pasture, each at 6d. which, with the rents of assise, made the total value of the whole manor 9l. 10s. 3d. the repair of the buildings yearly amounting to twenty shillings. (fn. 24)

 

This manor still continues in the possession of the bishop of Rochester; but the demesne lands are leased out by him to Mrs. Vade, of Croydon, in Surry.

 

By the agreement made between John Lowe, bishop of Rochester, and the bailiff and citizens of Rochester, in the 27th year of king Henry VI. concerning the limits of the jurisdiction of the city, according to the charter then lately made to them, this borough and manor of Borstall was declared to be exempt from the precinct of the hundred of Rochester, and the law-day of it, and from all payments, fines, suits forfeitures and amerciaments due on that account, as being within the liberty of the bishop, and his church. (fn. 25)

 

The monks of Rochester priory had several grants of TYTHES, and other premises made to them within this manor and hamlet.

 

Robert Ernulf and Eadric de Borstalle, gave the tithes of their lands in Borstalle to the priory, which were confirmed to it by several bishops of Rochester, and others (fn. 26) In which confirmations they are described, as the whole tithe of Borstalle of corn, and two parts of the tithes of the land of Ralph de Borstalle. (fn. 27) Eadric de Hescenden, with his wife and two sons, entered into the society of the monks of this priory, upon condition, that when they died, the monks should say a service for them, as for their brethren; and the monks were to have for ever the tithes of their lands in Borestealle and Freondesberie, but in corn only.

 

Several parcels of land, &c. lying within the manor or hamlet of Borstall, were likewise at times given to these monks. All these premises continued part of the possessions of the priory till the dissolution of it, in 1549, when they were surrendered into the king's hands, and were settled by him, three years afterwards, on his new founded dean and chapter of Rochester, where they remain at present.

 

This manor, with others in this neighbourhood, was bound antiently to contribute to the repair of the first pier of Rochester-bridge.

 

NASHENDEN is a manor in this parish, which lies about three-quarters of a mile south-eastward from Borstall. In the Textus Roffensis it is called Hescenden, and in Domesday, Essedene.

 

This manor was part of those vast possessions, with which William the Conqueror enriched his half-brother Odo, the great bishop of Baieux; accordingly it is thus entered, under the title of that prelate's lands, in the general survey of Domesday:

 

Rannulf de Columbels holds of the bishop (of Baieux) Essedene. It was taxed at one suling. The arable land is . . . . In demesne there is one carucate, and 19 villeins, with three borderers having three carucates. There are three servants, and 8 acres of meadow. In the time of king Edward the Confessor, it was worth three pounds, when he received it four pounds, now five pounds. Earl Leuuin held it.

 

It appears by the red book of the exchequer, that this estate in the reign of king Henry II. was held by Thomas de Nessingden, of Daniel de Crevequer, as one knight's fee of the old feoffment.

 

In the reign of king Edward I. this manor was become the property of Jeffry Haspale, whose descendant, John de Aspale, for so the name was then spelt, died possessed of Nashenden in the 31st year of that reign, holding it of the king in capite. After which it appears to have come into the name of Basing, and from thence quickly after into that of Charles.

 

Richard Charles, as appears by the inquisition taken after his death, anno 1 Richard II. died possessed of the manor of Naseden, which he held of the king in capite by knight's service, excepting forty acres of pasture and wood, which he held of the lord Grey, as of his manor of Aylesford; whose nephew, Richard, son of his brother Roger Charles, died possessed of it in the 11th year of that reign, holding it of the king in capite, as of his honor of Peverel and Hagenet, by knight's service.

 

Nicholas Haut afterwards possessed this manor, in right of his wife Alice, who was a descendant of the above-mentioned family. She held it for the term of her life with remainder to James Peckham, who on her death, in the 1st year of king Henry IV. came into the possession of it. He obtained the king's licence two years afterwards, to give and amortize to the wardens of Rochester-bridge, and their successors, this manor, and also one hundred acres of pasture, with their appurtenances in Ellesford, the manor then being worth yearly, and above all reprises 6l. 13s. 4d. per annum. (fn. 28) Since which it has continued part of the possessions of the wardens and commonalty of the said bridge, for the support and repair of it. The present lessees of this manor are Leonard Bartholemew and Phil. Boghurst, esqrs.

 

An account of the tithes of this manor will be given, with those of Little Delce in this parish. (fn. 29)

 

There was a chapel at this place, dependent on the parish church of St. Margaret. (fn. 29)

 

GREAT DELCE is a manor which, with the estate now called LOWER DELCE, lies on the eastern side of this parish, about half a mile southward from Eastgate, in Rochester. It was formerly called Much Delce and Delce Magna, or Great Delce, and was given by William the Conqueror to Odo, bishop of Baieux, his halfbrother, under the title of whose lands it is thus entered in the general survey of Domesday:

 

In the lath of Aylesford, in Rochester hundred, the son of William Tabum holds Delce of the bishop (of Baieux). It was taxed at one suling and one yoke. The arable land is . . . . . There is one carucate in demesne, and five villeins having five carucates. There are 12 acres of meadow, wood for the pannage of one bog. In the time of king Edward the Confessor, and afterwards, it was worth three pounds, and now 70 shillings. Godric held it of king Edward.

 

This manor afterwards came into the possession of a family, to which it gave name. Herebert, Gosfrid, and Hugo de Delce possessed it in successive generations. After which it passed to Buckerel, and the heirs of Thomas Buckerel, in the latter end of the reign of king Henry III. held it as two knights fees and a half, of Bertram de Criol. (fn. 30) After which this estate seems to have been separated into parcels, for Geoffry de Haspale held this manor as the fourth part of a knight's fee only, at the time of his death, in the 15th year of king Edward I. as appears by the inquisition taken for that purpose.

 

The next family who succeeded, as appears by the original deeds of this estate, was that of Molineux, descended from those of Sefton, in Lancashire; but they did not keep possession of it long, for by the evidence of an antient court roll, Benedict de Fulsham was lord of it in the 30th year of king Edward III. His descendant, Richard Fulsham, held it of the king in capite, as the fourth part of a knight's fee, at his death in the 5th year of king Henry V. Soon after which this name seems to have become extinct here; for in the 9th year of that reign, Reginald Love died possessed of it, and his successor held it till the latter end of king Henry VI's reign, when it passed by sale to William Venour, whose arms were, Argent, on a fess sable five escallops or, three and two, and who died possessed of this manor in the 1st year of king Edward IV. After which it was within a few months conveyed by sale to Markham, descended from an antient family of that name in Nottinghamshire, in which name it staid but a very short time before it was sold to Tate, who passed it away to Sir Richard Lee, citizen of London, and grocer, who served the office of lord-mayor in the 39th year of king Henry VI. and the 9th year of king Edward IV. (fn. 31) He was the eldest son of John Lee, of Wolksted, in Surry, and grandson of Symon Lee, who was descended of ancestors in Worcestershire, and bore for his arms, Azure, on a sess cotized or, three leopard's faces gules. He lies buried in the church of St. Stephen, Walbrook, his arms are remaining in East-Grinsted church, and in that of St. Dionis Backchurch, in London, with those of several marriages of his posterity; his son Richard Lee seems to have had this manor of Great Delce by gift of his father during his life-time, and kept his shrievalty at this mansion in the 19th year of the latter reign, his son Richard, who was both of Delce and of Maidstone, left two sons, the youngest of whom, Edward, was archbishop of York, (fn. 32) and the eldest Richard, was of Delce, whose only surviving son, Godfrey, in the 31st year of Henry VIII. procured his lands to be disgavelled, by the general act passed for this purpose, (fn. 33) after which his descendants continued to reside here for several generations, but Richard Lee, esq. about the latter end of queen Anne's reign, passed away the whole of this estate, excepting the manor, and forty acres of land, to Thomas Chiffinch, esq. of Northfleet, in this county, from which time this seat and estate acquired the name of Lower Delce.

 

Thomas Chiffinch, esq. died in 1727, and was succeeded by Thomas Chiffinch, esq. his only son and heir, who died without issue in 1775, and by his will bequeathed this, among his other estates, to his niece and heir-at-law, Mary, the daughter of his sister Elizabeth Comyns, who afterwards carried them in marriage to Francis Wadman, esq. of the Hive, in Northfleet, and he is the present possessor of Lower Delce.

 

THE MANOR OF GREAT DELCE, and the forty acres of land above-mentioned, together with a farm, called King's Farm, continued in the possession of Richard Lee, esq. who died possessed of them in 1724, and his grandson, Richard Lee, esq. of Clytha, in Wales, now possesses this manor; but in 1769, he alienated all the demesnes of it, together with King's farm, to Mr. Sampson Waring, of Chatham, who died possessed of them in 1769, leaving his brother, Mr. Walter Waring, and his sister, Mrs. Smith, of Lower Delce, his executors, who are at this time entitled to the profits of them. The court for the manor of Great Delce has not been held for some years.

 

The manor is held by castle-guard rent of Rochester castle; but when the mansion and most part of the lands were sold, as above mentioned, from Lee to Chiffinch, the former expressly charged the whole of that rent on the premises bought by Chiffinch, and entirely exonerated that part which he reserved to himself from paying any portion of it.

 

An account of the tithes of this manor, given to the priory of Rochester, may be seen under the following description of Little Delce manor.

 

LITTLE DELCE, or DELCE PARVA, now known by the name of UPPER DELCE, is a manor in this parish, situated in the high road between Rochester and Maidstone, somewhat more than a quarter of a mile from the former. This likewise, as well as that of Great Delce, was given by William the Conqueror to his half brother Odo, bishop of Baieux; under the general title of whose lands it is thus described in the book of Domesday:

 

In Rochester hundred, Ansgotus de Roucestre holds Delce of the bishop (of Baieux). It was taxed at one suling. The arable land is two carucates, and there are in demesne . . . . . . . with one villein, and five borderers, and six servants. There are 12 acres of meadow, and 60 acres of pasture. In the time of king Edward the Confessor, and afterwards, and now, it was, and is worth 100 shillings. Osuuard held it of king Edward.

 

This estate, on the disgrace of bishop Odo, most probably reverted again into the king's hands; and seems afterwards to have been in the possession of a family, who assumed their name, De Delce, from it, and held it of William de Say, as one knight's fee. (fn. 34)

 

In the reign of king John, this manor was in the possession of Jeffry de Bosco, a Norman; but when that province was seized by the king of France, the lands of the Normans, in this kingdom, became vested in the crown, by way of escheat or seizure, under the title of, Terra Normanorum; thus the manor of Little Delce was seized by king John, in the 5th year of his reign, who gave it to William de Ciriton, the sheriff, for two hundred pounds, two palfreys, and two gols hawks, (fn. 35) on condition, that if the said Jeffry should return to his allegiance, he should, without delay, again possess the same. (fn. 36) But this never happened, and this manor continued in the desendants of William de Ciriton. Odo de Ciriton died possessed of it it in the 31st year of king Henry III. holding it of the king in capite, by the service of one knight's fee. (fn. 37) This family was extinct here before the middle of the reign of king Edward I. for in the 9th year of that reign, as appears by Kirkby's Inquest. Richard Pogeys held this manor. At the latter end of the reign of king Edward III. it was possessed by the family of Basing, from which name it went into that of Charles. Richard Charles died possessed of the manor of Little Delce, in the 1st year of king Richard II. leaving his brother's sons, Richard and John, his next heirs; the former of whom died possessed of it, anno 11 Richard II. and left a son, Robert Charles, who dying without issue, his two sisters became his coheirs, viz. Alice, married to William Snayth, and Joan to Richard Ormskirk; and on the division of their estates, this manor fell to the share of William Snayth, commonly called Snette, in right of his wife, Alice, the eldest of them. Soon after which, Charles and William Snette, for so the name is spelt in the bridge archives, gave and amortized this manor of Little Delce, of the yearly value of six marcs, above all reprises, to the wardens of Rochester bridge and their successors, for the support and repair of the same. Since which it has acquired the name of Upper Delce, by which it is now only known, and it continues at this time part of the possessions of the wardens and commonalty of the said bridge, for the purposes above mentioned. The present lessees of this manor are Leonard Bartholomew and Philip Boghurst, esqrs.

 

The tithes of Great and Little Delce, Borstal, and Nashenden, were given, in the time of bishop Gundulph, to the priory of Rochester.

 

Gosfrid de Delce, together with his wife and children, on their being admitted to be partakers of the benefits received from the prayers of the monks, gave the whole of the tithes of Little Delce, both great and small, to the priory of St. Andrew.

 

Ansgotus de Rovecestre accepted of the like benefit from the church of St. Andrew, and the monks there, in the time of bishop Gundulph, and gave to the church and monks there, all his tithes, both great and small, of Great Delce, and in like manner the whole of his tithe mill, and of a certain piece of land included within the wall of the monks, towards the south, and five acres of land near Prestefelde, and at their request, gave them, on his death bed, cloathing, and they performed service for him as for a monk.

 

Uulmer, the tenant of Arnulf de Hesdine, by the advice of Adelold, brother of Baldwin, monk of St. Andrew, accepted the benefit of that society, and gave to it his whole tithe, worth ten shillings yearly. Robert de St. Armand gave his tithes of Neschendene and Borstelle to St. Andrew's priory. These several tithes were confirmed to the priory by various bishops of Rochester; by Theobald, archbishop, and Ralph, prior, and the convent of Canterbury. They remained part of the possessions of the priory till their dissolution in 1540; three years after which they were settled on the new founded dean and chapter of Roter, where they still remain.

 

The PARISH of St. MARGARET, is Rochester, is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese and deanry of Rochester. The church is situated at the south extremity of St. Margaret's-street; it consists of one nave and two chancels on the south side of much later date than the church. That towards the east end was built and long supported by the family of Lee, of Great Delce, whose remains lie in a large vault under this chancel; but since the alienation of their mansion here, the repair of this part of the fabric has devolved on the parishioners. The chancel, at the east end of the church, belongs to the appropriator, who consequently repairs it. At the west end of the church is a tower, containing five bells; it is entirely covered with ivy to the top of it, which makes a most beautiful and picturesque appearance. Against the east wall, in the south chancel, is the antient bust of a man in robes, with a coronet on his head. (fn. 38) In the reign of king Charles II. a coronet, set round with precious stones, was dug up in this church yard; and the report of the parish has been, that one of our Saxon kings was buried here.

 

Among other monuments and inscriptions in this church are the following: In the chancel, a brass for Syr James Roberte Preess, obt. Sep. 24, 1540. A monument, arms, Head, impaling quarterly a chevron between three hawks belled or, for Francis Head, esq. eldest son of Sir Richard Head. bart. obt. 1678; he married the only daughter of Sir George Ent. In the north window, Argent. three crosses bottony fitchee sable, and argent on a bend quarterly, an efcallop gules. In a pew, partly in the chancel and partly in the nave, Argent on a bend gules, between two peliers, three swans proper. In the nave, a brass for Tho. Cod. vicar, a benefactor to the steeple of this church, obt. Nov. 1465. In the chancel, south of the rectors, a monument, arms, Argent, a right hand couped sable, impaling Lee, for Thomas Manly, esq the third son and heir of George Manly, of Lach, esq. he married Jane, second daughter of Richard Lee, esq. of Delce, and left one only son and two daughters, obt. 1690. In the east window, arms of Lee, Azure on a fess cotized, or three leopards heads gules. In a chapel, west of the Lee chancel, in the east wall, a bust of a person with a crown on his head, much defaced. (fn. 39)

 

At the time of bishop Gundulph's coming to the see of Rochester, and for almost a century afterwards, this church or chapel of St. Margaret, for it is frequently mentioned by both names, was accounted only as an appendage to the parochial altar of St. Nicholas in the cathedral, and the one underwent the same changes as the other; (fn. 40) and Walter, bishop of Rochester, in 1147, confirmed the above mentioned parochial altar, together with this church of St. Margaret, which belonged as a chapel to it, to the monks of this priory, and appropriated it to them. This grant was set aside by bishop Gilbert de Glanville, in the beginning of the reign of king Richard I. who not only separated this church from the altar of St. Nicholas, and divested the monks of all manner of right to it; but on the foundation of his hospital at Stroud about the same time, he gave, in pure and perpetual alms, among other premises, this church of St. Margaret to the master and brethren of it, and appropriated it to them, reserving only half a marc yearly to be paid to the priory, in lieu of the oblations which the monks used to receive from it. (fn. 41)

 

The monks by no means acquiesced in this gift, but seized every opportunity of asserting their right to this church, and after several appeals to the pope from time to time, and confirmation and decrees made in favour of each party, (fn. 42) the dispute seems to have been finally settled in 1255, when the pope adjudged, that this church of St. Margaret, with all its appurtenances, should for the future belong to the prior and chapter of Rochester; accordingly from the above time they kept possession of it.

 

From the time of bishop Walter's appropriation of the profits of the parochial altar of St. Nicholas, with this church appendant to it, to the prior and convent, to the divesting them of it by bishop Glanville, it is likely, instead of a curate being appointed, the duty of this parish was discharged by some member of the society, as it was probably afterwards, whilst in the possession of the hospital, by one of the priests of that foundation; however, within a few years after the convent recovered the permanent possession of St. Margaret's, a vicar was certainly appointed, for William Talevez occurs by that title in 1272.

 

The vicars seem to have had only a yearly stipend from the convent for their pains, for more than a century afterwards; but in 1401, the prior and chapter came into a composition with the vicar for the endowment of this church; in which they agreed, that the vicar and his successors should for the future have, for their maintenance, and the support of the burthens therein mentioned, a mansion with its appurtenances, to be assigned for the vicarage of it, and the accustomed and entire altarage of it, and all the small tithes of the three manors of Nessenden and Great and Little Delce, and of all goods and lands, except the tithes of mills, within the parish, and except the tithes, great, small, and mixed, arising from the lands, cattle, and other things belonging to the religious; and that he and his successors should have three quarters of wheat with three heaps, and three quarters of barley with three heaps, to be taken yearly at their barn, at the times therein mentioned, and the tithes of sheaves, which should arise in gardens not cultivated with the plough; and that the vicar and his suc cessors, content with the above portion, should not demand any thing further of the religious or their successors; and further, that he and they should undergo, at their own proper costs and charges, the burthens of repairing, maintaining, and new building, as often as need should be, the buildings, with their appurtenances, and all other things belonging to the said mansion, with its appurtenances, as well as all things belonging to the celebration of divine services, and the administration of the sacraments and sacramentals to the parishioners, and the finding of bread and wine, lights, books, vestments, and other ornaments necessary to the celebration of divine services, which of custom or right ought to belong to the secular rectors of this church; and also the procurations and subsidies, according to the taxation of his and their portion; but all other things whatsoever, belonging or which in future should belong to this church, as well as all tithes whatsoever, arising or to arise from the lands and possessions of the prior and convent within the parish, even though they should be let or sold to laymen, they the said prior and convent should take and have, who should likewise maintain and repair the chancel, except as before excepted, at their own proper costs and charges. Notwithstanding the stipulation of the vicar for himself and his successors, not to require any increase of their portion from the prior and convent, Edmund Harefelde, vicar of this church, did not consider this clause as obligatory upon him; for in 1488, he petitioned the bishop for an augmentation of his vicarial portion, who decreed, that the vicar and his successors should yearly receive, as the portion of his vicarage, from the prior and convent, five marcs in money; and out of the tithes and profits of this church, appropriated to the prior and convent, four quarters of wheat with four heaps, and four quarters of barley with four heaps, to be taken yearly at their barns of the Upper court, in Harreat, with liberty of entry and distress on the parsonage on non-payment; and he decreed, that the endowment of the vicarage, over and above the portion above mentioned, should be as follows, that the vicar for the time being should have the mansion of the vicarage of this church, with the garden adjoining, for his habitation, which they used to have of old time there, and then had; and all manner of oblations whatsoever within the bounds of the parish, and all manner of tithes whatsoever, as of hay, lambs, wool, mills, calves, chicken, pigs, geese, ducks, eggs, bees, honey, wax, cheese, milk, the produce of the dairy, flax, hemp, pears, apples, swans, pidgeons, merchandizes, fisheries, pastures, onions, garlics, and saffrons whatsoever arising and coming; and also the tithes of sheaves in gardens, whether cultivated with the plough or dug with the foot, increasing within the parish; and the tithes also of firewood, woods, thorns, silva cedua, as well as of all billets, faggots, and fardels whatsoever, within the limits of the parish; and he further decreed, that the burthens of repairing, amending, and new building the mansion, with every appurtenance belonging to it, and the celebration and ministration of the sacraments and the sacramentals to the parishioners, of the finding of bread and wine, and lights to the church, either of right or custom due, should belong to and be borne by the vicar and his successors, as well as all episcopal burthens of the said church, according to the taxation of his portion. But that the burthen of repairing and amending the chancel of the church, as well within as without, as also the finding and repairing of books, vestments, and other ornaments, for the celebration of those divine rights, which of old, either by right or custom, belonged to the rectors of the church, should in future be borne by the prior and convent and their successors, at their own proper charge and expence; and that all other burthens, ordinary and extraordinary, of the vicarage, and to the vicar belonging, by reason of tha same, except as before excepted, should belong to him and his successors, to be borne and supported at his and their own proper costs and charges; saving to the bishop and his successors, a right of augmenting and diminishing this vicarage, and of correcting, amending, and explaining the above decree, whenever he or they should think it expedient so to do; and saving to himself and his successors, all episcopal right, (fn. 43) &c.

 

The appropriation of this church, and the patronage of the vicarage, continued part of the possessions of the prior and convent till the dissolution of the monastery, in 1540, when it was surrendered into the king's hands, who three years after, by his dotation charter, settled this appropriation and vicarage on his new founded dean and chapter of Rochester, where they remain at this time.

 

Adjoining to the north wall of the church yard is a piece of ground, which has probably belonged to the vicars of this parish ever since their first institution here; an antient court roll mentions their being possessed of it in the year 1317.

 

In the 5th year of king Edward III. John de Folkstan, vicar of St. Margaret's, held a messuage, with its appurtenances, adjoining to the church yard, by the assignment of the prior and convent, with the ordination of the bishop, as belonging to the portion of his vicarage; which messuage, with its appurtenances, was held of the master and brethren of the hospital of Stroud, by fealty, and the service of two shillings yearly, and also the payment of twelvepence to them, after the death of each vicar. (fn. 44)

 

The vicars, I am told, now hold this piece of land of the dean and chapter, as of their manor of Ambree, on their paying a small acknowledgment.

 

The vicarage house being from age become irreparable, was taken down, with an intention of erecting a convenient and substantial dwelling in the room of it; for which purpose Mr. Lowth, the late vicar, for several years deposited an annual sum with the dean and chapter, towards defraying the charges of it; and about 1781, erected on this spot a neat and convenient house, built of brick and sashed, with proper offices adjoining, for the use of himself and his successors, vicars of this parish. By an agreement between John Ready, vicar of it, and the dean and chapter, the former, in consideration of several benefits and benevolences done to him by the latter, consented to take an annual payment of 5l. 6s. 8d. instead of the pension in money and corn, granted by the composition made in 1488. Some recompence indeed has since been made for this unjust bargain by the dean and chapter, who have settled on it a larger augmentation than on any other church in their patronage. The vicarage of St. Margaret is valued in the king's books at 10l. and the yearly tenths at 1l. (fn. 45)

 

¶In the survey, taken after the death of Charles I. in 1649, of the church livings within this diocese, by the powers then in being, on the intended abolition of deans and chapters, it was returned, that there were belonging to this rectory or parsonage, a parsonagehouse, two barns, one stable, and other houshings, and also certain tithes, profits, &c. belonging to it, together with certain glebe land, called Court-hill and Court hill marsh, containing together nine acres, and and one marsh, lying in the parish of St. Nicholas, Rochester, called Cow marsh, with the waste ground called salts, containing together seven acres, and all that piece of ground called Upper court, alias Hogshaw, containing one acre; in all seventeen acres, worth together 130l. per annum, viz. the house and lands, 12l. per annum, and the tithes 118l. per ann. all which were let, among other premises, by Henry King, late dean of the cathedral church of Rochester, by his indenture, in 1639, to George Newman, esq. for twenty-one years, at the yearly rent, for Preestfield and Stroud marsh, of 4s. 4d. per annum, and for all the other premises twelve quarters of wheat, heaped, making together the yearly rent of 31l. 1s. 8d. Next the vicarage was, in like manner surveyed, and returned at the yearly value of 30l. (fn. 46)

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-kent/vol4/pp153-182

Heritage Weekend is more than just the Saturday. In fact its more than one weekend. And the website for the weekend listed many intersting places to go, but few in east Kent on the Sunday, but St Margaret's being open was one of them.

 

So, after we had left St Mildred in Canterbury, we drove up the M2, and then through the usual strip malls and urban spread that is the Medway Towns.

 

The sat nav took us down narrow streets, across a main road, and up a slight hill, and announced we had arrived.

 

Nothing churchy leaped out at me.

 

I thought maybe down the narrow lane in front. It was then I saw the wall.

 

The wall looked chuchy. And beyond was an early 19th century building that had heritage bunting strung out.

 

Bingo.

 

The first view had the tower hidden by a tree, I thought perhaps it didn't have one.

 

But nearer to the church I could see it did have a tower, an a medieval one at that, it looked like an unhappy coupling.

 

I was given a very warm welcome, and the history of the church was explained:

 

the original church was in a ruinous state at the start of the 19th century, and when Army and Naval officers began to have houses built in the area, they wanted a nice fashionable church.

 

So the nave and chancel were taken down, and the current nave put in its place.

 

Built before the English Gothic fervour took hold.

 

The east and west windows have been replaced since the church was built.

 

Would I like to go up the tower? THere's a chance in then minutes.

 

It was hot and my heart really wasn't in it, but for photography, I'll do it.

 

So, we walked round the outside of the tower, into through the bottom door, then up and round and round, as the steps got ever steeper and worn.

 

Would the views be worth it? THey'd better.

 

------------------------------------------

  

THE PARISH OF ST. MARGARET is of large extent, and contains all the lands without the walls on the south side of the city, that are within the bounds of its jurisdiction. It is stiled in some records, St. Margaret's in Suthgate, (fn. 22) and in those of the city, the Borough of Suthgate. (fn. 23)

 

There are two streets of houses in this parish, the one called St. Margaret's-street, leading from Bully-hill to the church, and so on to Borstall and Woldham southward; the other at some distance from it called St. Margaret's-bank, being a long row of houses, situated on a high bank at the north-east boundary of the parish, on the south side of the great London road to Dover, between St. Catherine's hospital in Rochester, and the Victualling-office, in Chatham. These houses are within the manor of Larkhill.

 

THERE are SEVERAL MANORS within the bounds of this parish, the most eminent of which is that of

 

BORSTALL, which was given to the church of Rochester and bishop Beornmod, in the year 811, by Cænulf, king of Mercia, as three plough lands.

 

This manor seems to have continued part of the possessions of the church of Rochester, without any interruption, till the time of the conquest. It is thus described in the general survey of Domesday, taken in the year 1080, under the general title of Terra Epi Rovecestre, i. e. the lands of the bishop of Rochester.

 

In the hundred of Rochester, the same bishop (of Rochester) holds Borchetelle. In the time of king Edward the Confessor it was taxed at two sulings, and now for one suling and an half. The arable land is four carucates. In demesne there are two carucates, and six villeins with three carucates. There are 50 acres of meadow, and two mills of 20 shillings. In the time of king Edward, and afterwards, it was worth six pounds, and now 10 pounds.

 

In Rochester the bishop had, and yet has, 24 plats of ground, which belong to Frindsbury and Borstal, his own manors. In the time of king Edward the Confessor, and afterwards, they were worth three pounds, now they are worth eight pounds, and yet they yield yearly 11 pounds and 13 shillings and four-pence.

 

When bishop Gundulph was elected to this see in the time of the Conqueror, and after the example of his patron, archbishop Lanfranc, separated his own revenues from those of his convent, this manor in the division was allotted to the bishop and his successors.

 

On a taxation of the bishop of Rochester's manors, in 1255, it appears that the bishop had in the manor of Borstalle one hundred and forty acres of arable, estimated each acre at 4d. forty acres of salt meadow at 8d. each, and fourteen acres of salt pasture, each at 6d. which, with the rents of assise, made the total value of the whole manor 9l. 10s. 3d. the repair of the buildings yearly amounting to twenty shillings. (fn. 24)

 

This manor still continues in the possession of the bishop of Rochester; but the demesne lands are leased out by him to Mrs. Vade, of Croydon, in Surry.

 

By the agreement made between John Lowe, bishop of Rochester, and the bailiff and citizens of Rochester, in the 27th year of king Henry VI. concerning the limits of the jurisdiction of the city, according to the charter then lately made to them, this borough and manor of Borstall was declared to be exempt from the precinct of the hundred of Rochester, and the law-day of it, and from all payments, fines, suits forfeitures and amerciaments due on that account, as being within the liberty of the bishop, and his church. (fn. 25)

 

The monks of Rochester priory had several grants of TYTHES, and other premises made to them within this manor and hamlet.

 

Robert Ernulf and Eadric de Borstalle, gave the tithes of their lands in Borstalle to the priory, which were confirmed to it by several bishops of Rochester, and others (fn. 26) In which confirmations they are described, as the whole tithe of Borstalle of corn, and two parts of the tithes of the land of Ralph de Borstalle. (fn. 27) Eadric de Hescenden, with his wife and two sons, entered into the society of the monks of this priory, upon condition, that when they died, the monks should say a service for them, as for their brethren; and the monks were to have for ever the tithes of their lands in Borestealle and Freondesberie, but in corn only.

 

Several parcels of land, &c. lying within the manor or hamlet of Borstall, were likewise at times given to these monks. All these premises continued part of the possessions of the priory till the dissolution of it, in 1549, when they were surrendered into the king's hands, and were settled by him, three years afterwards, on his new founded dean and chapter of Rochester, where they remain at present.

 

This manor, with others in this neighbourhood, was bound antiently to contribute to the repair of the first pier of Rochester-bridge.

 

NASHENDEN is a manor in this parish, which lies about three-quarters of a mile south-eastward from Borstall. In the Textus Roffensis it is called Hescenden, and in Domesday, Essedene.

 

This manor was part of those vast possessions, with which William the Conqueror enriched his half-brother Odo, the great bishop of Baieux; accordingly it is thus entered, under the title of that prelate's lands, in the general survey of Domesday:

 

Rannulf de Columbels holds of the bishop (of Baieux) Essedene. It was taxed at one suling. The arable land is . . . . In demesne there is one carucate, and 19 villeins, with three borderers having three carucates. There are three servants, and 8 acres of meadow. In the time of king Edward the Confessor, it was worth three pounds, when he received it four pounds, now five pounds. Earl Leuuin held it.

 

It appears by the red book of the exchequer, that this estate in the reign of king Henry II. was held by Thomas de Nessingden, of Daniel de Crevequer, as one knight's fee of the old feoffment.

 

In the reign of king Edward I. this manor was become the property of Jeffry Haspale, whose descendant, John de Aspale, for so the name was then spelt, died possessed of Nashenden in the 31st year of that reign, holding it of the king in capite. After which it appears to have come into the name of Basing, and from thence quickly after into that of Charles.

 

Richard Charles, as appears by the inquisition taken after his death, anno 1 Richard II. died possessed of the manor of Naseden, which he held of the king in capite by knight's service, excepting forty acres of pasture and wood, which he held of the lord Grey, as of his manor of Aylesford; whose nephew, Richard, son of his brother Roger Charles, died possessed of it in the 11th year of that reign, holding it of the king in capite, as of his honor of Peverel and Hagenet, by knight's service.

 

Nicholas Haut afterwards possessed this manor, in right of his wife Alice, who was a descendant of the above-mentioned family. She held it for the term of her life with remainder to James Peckham, who on her death, in the 1st year of king Henry IV. came into the possession of it. He obtained the king's licence two years afterwards, to give and amortize to the wardens of Rochester-bridge, and their successors, this manor, and also one hundred acres of pasture, with their appurtenances in Ellesford, the manor then being worth yearly, and above all reprises 6l. 13s. 4d. per annum. (fn. 28) Since which it has continued part of the possessions of the wardens and commonalty of the said bridge, for the support and repair of it. The present lessees of this manor are Leonard Bartholemew and Phil. Boghurst, esqrs.

 

An account of the tithes of this manor will be given, with those of Little Delce in this parish. (fn. 29)

 

There was a chapel at this place, dependent on the parish church of St. Margaret. (fn. 29)

 

GREAT DELCE is a manor which, with the estate now called LOWER DELCE, lies on the eastern side of this parish, about half a mile southward from Eastgate, in Rochester. It was formerly called Much Delce and Delce Magna, or Great Delce, and was given by William the Conqueror to Odo, bishop of Baieux, his halfbrother, under the title of whose lands it is thus entered in the general survey of Domesday:

 

In the lath of Aylesford, in Rochester hundred, the son of William Tabum holds Delce of the bishop (of Baieux). It was taxed at one suling and one yoke. The arable land is . . . . . There is one carucate in demesne, and five villeins having five carucates. There are 12 acres of meadow, wood for the pannage of one bog. In the time of king Edward the Confessor, and afterwards, it was worth three pounds, and now 70 shillings. Godric held it of king Edward.

 

This manor afterwards came into the possession of a family, to which it gave name. Herebert, Gosfrid, and Hugo de Delce possessed it in successive generations. After which it passed to Buckerel, and the heirs of Thomas Buckerel, in the latter end of the reign of king Henry III. held it as two knights fees and a half, of Bertram de Criol. (fn. 30) After which this estate seems to have been separated into parcels, for Geoffry de Haspale held this manor as the fourth part of a knight's fee only, at the time of his death, in the 15th year of king Edward I. as appears by the inquisition taken for that purpose.

 

The next family who succeeded, as appears by the original deeds of this estate, was that of Molineux, descended from those of Sefton, in Lancashire; but they did not keep possession of it long, for by the evidence of an antient court roll, Benedict de Fulsham was lord of it in the 30th year of king Edward III. His descendant, Richard Fulsham, held it of the king in capite, as the fourth part of a knight's fee, at his death in the 5th year of king Henry V. Soon after which this name seems to have become extinct here; for in the 9th year of that reign, Reginald Love died possessed of it, and his successor held it till the latter end of king Henry VI's reign, when it passed by sale to William Venour, whose arms were, Argent, on a fess sable five escallops or, three and two, and who died possessed of this manor in the 1st year of king Edward IV. After which it was within a few months conveyed by sale to Markham, descended from an antient family of that name in Nottinghamshire, in which name it staid but a very short time before it was sold to Tate, who passed it away to Sir Richard Lee, citizen of London, and grocer, who served the office of lord-mayor in the 39th year of king Henry VI. and the 9th year of king Edward IV. (fn. 31) He was the eldest son of John Lee, of Wolksted, in Surry, and grandson of Symon Lee, who was descended of ancestors in Worcestershire, and bore for his arms, Azure, on a sess cotized or, three leopard's faces gules. He lies buried in the church of St. Stephen, Walbrook, his arms are remaining in East-Grinsted church, and in that of St. Dionis Backchurch, in London, with those of several marriages of his posterity; his son Richard Lee seems to have had this manor of Great Delce by gift of his father during his life-time, and kept his shrievalty at this mansion in the 19th year of the latter reign, his son Richard, who was both of Delce and of Maidstone, left two sons, the youngest of whom, Edward, was archbishop of York, (fn. 32) and the eldest Richard, was of Delce, whose only surviving son, Godfrey, in the 31st year of Henry VIII. procured his lands to be disgavelled, by the general act passed for this purpose, (fn. 33) after which his descendants continued to reside here for several generations, but Richard Lee, esq. about the latter end of queen Anne's reign, passed away the whole of this estate, excepting the manor, and forty acres of land, to Thomas Chiffinch, esq. of Northfleet, in this county, from which time this seat and estate acquired the name of Lower Delce.

 

Thomas Chiffinch, esq. died in 1727, and was succeeded by Thomas Chiffinch, esq. his only son and heir, who died without issue in 1775, and by his will bequeathed this, among his other estates, to his niece and heir-at-law, Mary, the daughter of his sister Elizabeth Comyns, who afterwards carried them in marriage to Francis Wadman, esq. of the Hive, in Northfleet, and he is the present possessor of Lower Delce.

 

THE MANOR OF GREAT DELCE, and the forty acres of land above-mentioned, together with a farm, called King's Farm, continued in the possession of Richard Lee, esq. who died possessed of them in 1724, and his grandson, Richard Lee, esq. of Clytha, in Wales, now possesses this manor; but in 1769, he alienated all the demesnes of it, together with King's farm, to Mr. Sampson Waring, of Chatham, who died possessed of them in 1769, leaving his brother, Mr. Walter Waring, and his sister, Mrs. Smith, of Lower Delce, his executors, who are at this time entitled to the profits of them. The court for the manor of Great Delce has not been held for some years.

 

The manor is held by castle-guard rent of Rochester castle; but when the mansion and most part of the lands were sold, as above mentioned, from Lee to Chiffinch, the former expressly charged the whole of that rent on the premises bought by Chiffinch, and entirely exonerated that part which he reserved to himself from paying any portion of it.

 

An account of the tithes of this manor, given to the priory of Rochester, may be seen under the following description of Little Delce manor.

 

LITTLE DELCE, or DELCE PARVA, now known by the name of UPPER DELCE, is a manor in this parish, situated in the high road between Rochester and Maidstone, somewhat more than a quarter of a mile from the former. This likewise, as well as that of Great Delce, was given by William the Conqueror to his half brother Odo, bishop of Baieux; under the general title of whose lands it is thus described in the book of Domesday:

 

In Rochester hundred, Ansgotus de Roucestre holds Delce of the bishop (of Baieux). It was taxed at one suling. The arable land is two carucates, and there are in demesne . . . . . . . with one villein, and five borderers, and six servants. There are 12 acres of meadow, and 60 acres of pasture. In the time of king Edward the Confessor, and afterwards, and now, it was, and is worth 100 shillings. Osuuard held it of king Edward.

 

This estate, on the disgrace of bishop Odo, most probably reverted again into the king's hands; and seems afterwards to have been in the possession of a family, who assumed their name, De Delce, from it, and held it of William de Say, as one knight's fee. (fn. 34)

 

In the reign of king John, this manor was in the possession of Jeffry de Bosco, a Norman; but when that province was seized by the king of France, the lands of the Normans, in this kingdom, became vested in the crown, by way of escheat or seizure, under the title of, Terra Normanorum; thus the manor of Little Delce was seized by king John, in the 5th year of his reign, who gave it to William de Ciriton, the sheriff, for two hundred pounds, two palfreys, and two gols hawks, (fn. 35) on condition, that if the said Jeffry should return to his allegiance, he should, without delay, again possess the same. (fn. 36) But this never happened, and this manor continued in the desendants of William de Ciriton. Odo de Ciriton died possessed of it it in the 31st year of king Henry III. holding it of the king in capite, by the service of one knight's fee. (fn. 37) This family was extinct here before the middle of the reign of king Edward I. for in the 9th year of that reign, as appears by Kirkby's Inquest. Richard Pogeys held this manor. At the latter end of the reign of king Edward III. it was possessed by the family of Basing, from which name it went into that of Charles. Richard Charles died possessed of the manor of Little Delce, in the 1st year of king Richard II. leaving his brother's sons, Richard and John, his next heirs; the former of whom died possessed of it, anno 11 Richard II. and left a son, Robert Charles, who dying without issue, his two sisters became his coheirs, viz. Alice, married to William Snayth, and Joan to Richard Ormskirk; and on the division of their estates, this manor fell to the share of William Snayth, commonly called Snette, in right of his wife, Alice, the eldest of them. Soon after which, Charles and William Snette, for so the name is spelt in the bridge archives, gave and amortized this manor of Little Delce, of the yearly value of six marcs, above all reprises, to the wardens of Rochester bridge and their successors, for the support and repair of the same. Since which it has acquired the name of Upper Delce, by which it is now only known, and it continues at this time part of the possessions of the wardens and commonalty of the said bridge, for the purposes above mentioned. The present lessees of this manor are Leonard Bartholomew and Philip Boghurst, esqrs.

 

The tithes of Great and Little Delce, Borstal, and Nashenden, were given, in the time of bishop Gundulph, to the priory of Rochester.

 

Gosfrid de Delce, together with his wife and children, on their being admitted to be partakers of the benefits received from the prayers of the monks, gave the whole of the tithes of Little Delce, both great and small, to the priory of St. Andrew.

 

Ansgotus de Rovecestre accepted of the like benefit from the church of St. Andrew, and the monks there, in the time of bishop Gundulph, and gave to the church and monks there, all his tithes, both great and small, of Great Delce, and in like manner the whole of his tithe mill, and of a certain piece of land included within the wall of the monks, towards the south, and five acres of land near Prestefelde, and at their request, gave them, on his death bed, cloathing, and they performed service for him as for a monk.

 

Uulmer, the tenant of Arnulf de Hesdine, by the advice of Adelold, brother of Baldwin, monk of St. Andrew, accepted the benefit of that society, and gave to it his whole tithe, worth ten shillings yearly. Robert de St. Armand gave his tithes of Neschendene and Borstelle to St. Andrew's priory. These several tithes were confirmed to the priory by various bishops of Rochester; by Theobald, archbishop, and Ralph, prior, and the convent of Canterbury. They remained part of the possessions of the priory till their dissolution in 1540; three years after which they were settled on the new founded dean and chapter of Roter, where they still remain.

 

The PARISH of St. MARGARET, is Rochester, is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese and deanry of Rochester. The church is situated at the south extremity of St. Margaret's-street; it consists of one nave and two chancels on the south side of much later date than the church. That towards the east end was built and long supported by the family of Lee, of Great Delce, whose remains lie in a large vault under this chancel; but since the alienation of their mansion here, the repair of this part of the fabric has devolved on the parishioners. The chancel, at the east end of the church, belongs to the appropriator, who consequently repairs it. At the west end of the church is a tower, containing five bells; it is entirely covered with ivy to the top of it, which makes a most beautiful and picturesque appearance. Against the east wall, in the south chancel, is the antient bust of a man in robes, with a coronet on his head. (fn. 38) In the reign of king Charles II. a coronet, set round with precious stones, was dug up in this church yard; and the report of the parish has been, that one of our Saxon kings was buried here.

 

Among other monuments and inscriptions in this church are the following: In the chancel, a brass for Syr James Roberte Preess, obt. Sep. 24, 1540. A monument, arms, Head, impaling quarterly a chevron between three hawks belled or, for Francis Head, esq. eldest son of Sir Richard Head. bart. obt. 1678; he married the only daughter of Sir George Ent. In the north window, Argent. three crosses bottony fitchee sable, and argent on a bend quarterly, an efcallop gules. In a pew, partly in the chancel and partly in the nave, Argent on a bend gules, between two peliers, three swans proper. In the nave, a brass for Tho. Cod. vicar, a benefactor to the steeple of this church, obt. Nov. 1465. In the chancel, south of the rectors, a monument, arms, Argent, a right hand couped sable, impaling Lee, for Thomas Manly, esq the third son and heir of George Manly, of Lach, esq. he married Jane, second daughter of Richard Lee, esq. of Delce, and left one only son and two daughters, obt. 1690. In the east window, arms of Lee, Azure on a fess cotized, or three leopards heads gules. In a chapel, west of the Lee chancel, in the east wall, a bust of a person with a crown on his head, much defaced. (fn. 39)

 

At the time of bishop Gundulph's coming to the see of Rochester, and for almost a century afterwards, this church or chapel of St. Margaret, for it is frequently mentioned by both names, was accounted only as an appendage to the parochial altar of St. Nicholas in the cathedral, and the one underwent the same changes as the other; (fn. 40) and Walter, bishop of Rochester, in 1147, confirmed the above mentioned parochial altar, together with this church of St. Margaret, which belonged as a chapel to it, to the monks of this priory, and appropriated it to them. This grant was set aside by bishop Gilbert de Glanville, in the beginning of the reign of king Richard I. who not only separated this church from the altar of St. Nicholas, and divested the monks of all manner of right to it; but on the foundation of his hospital at Stroud about the same time, he gave, in pure and perpetual alms, among other premises, this church of St. Margaret to the master and brethren of it, and appropriated it to them, reserving only half a marc yearly to be paid to the priory, in lieu of the oblations which the monks used to receive from it. (fn. 41)

 

The monks by no means acquiesced in this gift, but seized every opportunity of asserting their right to this church, and after several appeals to the pope from time to time, and confirmation and decrees made in favour of each party, (fn. 42) the dispute seems to have been finally settled in 1255, when the pope adjudged, that this church of St. Margaret, with all its appurtenances, should for the future belong to the prior and chapter of Rochester; accordingly from the above time they kept possession of it.

 

From the time of bishop Walter's appropriation of the profits of the parochial altar of St. Nicholas, with this church appendant to it, to the prior and convent, to the divesting them of it by bishop Glanville, it is likely, instead of a curate being appointed, the duty of this parish was discharged by some member of the society, as it was probably afterwards, whilst in the possession of the hospital, by one of the priests of that foundation; however, within a few years after the convent recovered the permanent possession of St. Margaret's, a vicar was certainly appointed, for William Talevez occurs by that title in 1272.

 

The vicars seem to have had only a yearly stipend from the convent for their pains, for more than a century afterwards; but in 1401, the prior and chapter came into a composition with the vicar for the endowment of this church; in which they agreed, that the vicar and his successors should for the future have, for their maintenance, and the support of the burthens therein mentioned, a mansion with its appurtenances, to be assigned for the vicarage of it, and the accustomed and entire altarage of it, and all the small tithes of the three manors of Nessenden and Great and Little Delce, and of all goods and lands, except the tithes of mills, within the parish, and except the tithes, great, small, and mixed, arising from the lands, cattle, and other things belonging to the religious; and that he and his successors should have three quarters of wheat with three heaps, and three quarters of barley with three heaps, to be taken yearly at their barn, at the times therein mentioned, and the tithes of sheaves, which should arise in gardens not cultivated with the plough; and that the vicar and his suc cessors, content with the above portion, should not demand any thing further of the religious or their successors; and further, that he and they should undergo, at their own proper costs and charges, the burthens of repairing, maintaining, and new building, as often as need should be, the buildings, with their appurtenances, and all other things belonging to the said mansion, with its appurtenances, as well as all things belonging to the celebration of divine services, and the administration of the sacraments and sacramentals to the parishioners, and the finding of bread and wine, lights, books, vestments, and other ornaments necessary to the celebration of divine services, which of custom or right ought to belong to the secular rectors of this church; and also the procurations and subsidies, according to the taxation of his and their portion; but all other things whatsoever, belonging or which in future should belong to this church, as well as all tithes whatsoever, arising or to arise from the lands and possessions of the prior and convent within the parish, even though they should be let or sold to laymen, they the said prior and convent should take and have, who should likewise maintain and repair the chancel, except as before excepted, at their own proper costs and charges. Notwithstanding the stipulation of the vicar for himself and his successors, not to require any increase of their portion from the prior and convent, Edmund Harefelde, vicar of this church, did not consider this clause as obligatory upon him; for in 1488, he petitioned the bishop for an augmentation of his vicarial portion, who decreed, that the vicar and his successors should yearly receive, as the portion of his vicarage, from the prior and convent, five marcs in money; and out of the tithes and profits of this church, appropriated to the prior and convent, four quarters of wheat with four heaps, and four quarters of barley with four heaps, to be taken yearly at their barns of the Upper court, in Harreat, with liberty of entry and distress on the parsonage on non-payment; and he decreed, that the endowment of the vicarage, over and above the portion above mentioned, should be as follows, that the vicar for the time being should have the mansion of the vicarage of this church, with the garden adjoining, for his habitation, which they used to have of old time there, and then had; and all manner of oblations whatsoever within the bounds of the parish, and all manner of tithes whatsoever, as of hay, lambs, wool, mills, calves, chicken, pigs, geese, ducks, eggs, bees, honey, wax, cheese, milk, the produce of the dairy, flax, hemp, pears, apples, swans, pidgeons, merchandizes, fisheries, pastures, onions, garlics, and saffrons whatsoever arising and coming; and also the tithes of sheaves in gardens, whether cultivated with the plough or dug with the foot, increasing within the parish; and the tithes also of firewood, woods, thorns, silva cedua, as well as of all billets, faggots, and fardels whatsoever, within the limits of the parish; and he further decreed, that the burthens of repairing, amending, and new building the mansion, with every appurtenance belonging to it, and the celebration and ministration of the sacraments and the sacramentals to the parishioners, of the finding of bread and wine, and lights to the church, either of right or custom due, should belong to and be borne by the vicar and his successors, as well as all episcopal burthens of the said church, according to the taxation of his portion. But that the burthen of repairing and amending the chancel of the church, as well within as without, as also the finding and repairing of books, vestments, and other ornaments, for the celebration of those divine rights, which of old, either by right or custom, belonged to the rectors of the church, should in future be borne by the prior and convent and their successors, at their own proper charge and expence; and that all other burthens, ordinary and extraordinary, of the vicarage, and to the vicar belonging, by reason of tha same, except as before excepted, should belong to him and his successors, to be borne and supported at his and their own proper costs and charges; saving to the bishop and his successors, a right of augmenting and diminishing this vicarage, and of correcting, amending, and explaining the above decree, whenever he or they should think it expedient so to do; and saving to himself and his successors, all episcopal right, (fn. 43) &c.

 

The appropriation of this church, and the patronage of the vicarage, continued part of the possessions of the prior and convent till the dissolution of the monastery, in 1540, when it was surrendered into the king's hands, who three years after, by his dotation charter, settled this appropriation and vicarage on his new founded dean and chapter of Rochester, where they remain at this time.

 

Adjoining to the north wall of the church yard is a piece of ground, which has probably belonged to the vicars of this parish ever since their first institution here; an antient court roll mentions their being possessed of it in the year 1317.

 

In the 5th year of king Edward III. John de Folkstan, vicar of St. Margaret's, held a messuage, with its appurtenances, adjoining to the church yard, by the assignment of the prior and convent, with the ordination of the bishop, as belonging to the portion of his vicarage; which messuage, with its appurtenances, was held of the master and brethren of the hospital of Stroud, by fealty, and the service of two shillings yearly, and also the payment of twelvepence to them, after the death of each vicar. (fn. 44)

 

The vicars, I am told, now hold this piece of land of the dean and chapter, as of their manor of Ambree, on their paying a small acknowledgment.

 

The vicarage house being from age become irreparable, was taken down, with an intention of erecting a convenient and substantial dwelling in the room of it; for which purpose Mr. Lowth, the late vicar, for several years deposited an annual sum with the dean and chapter, towards defraying the charges of it; and about 1781, erected on this spot a neat and convenient house, built of brick and sashed, with proper offices adjoining, for the use of himself and his successors, vicars of this parish. By an agreement between John Ready, vicar of it, and the dean and chapter, the former, in consideration of several benefits and benevolences done to him by the latter, consented to take an annual payment of 5l. 6s. 8d. instead of the pension in money and corn, granted by the composition made in 1488. Some recompence indeed has since been made for this unjust bargain by the dean and chapter, who have settled on it a larger augmentation than on any other church in their patronage. The vicarage of St. Margaret is valued in the king's books at 10l. and the yearly tenths at 1l. (fn. 45)

 

¶In the survey, taken after the death of Charles I. in 1649, of the church livings within this diocese, by the powers then in being, on the intended abolition of deans and chapters, it was returned, that there were belonging to this rectory or parsonage, a parsonagehouse, two barns, one stable, and other houshings, and also certain tithes, profits, &c. belonging to it, together with certain glebe land, called Court-hill and Court hill marsh, containing together nine acres, and and one marsh, lying in the parish of St. Nicholas, Rochester, called Cow marsh, with the waste ground called salts, containing together seven acres, and all that piece of ground called Upper court, alias Hogshaw, containing one acre; in all seventeen acres, worth together 130l. per annum, viz. the house and lands, 12l. per annum, and the tithes 118l. per ann. all which were let, among other premises, by Henry King, late dean of the cathedral church of Rochester, by his indenture, in 1639, to George Newman, esq. for twenty-one years, at the yearly rent, for Preestfield and Stroud marsh, of 4s. 4d. per annum, and for all the other premises twelve quarters of wheat, heaped, making together the yearly rent of 31l. 1s. 8d. Next the vicarage was, in like manner surveyed, and returned at the yearly value of 30l. (fn. 46)

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-kent/vol4/pp153-182

A local man behind one of the largest-scale chop shops ever busted in the Okanagan has agreed to forfeit customized motorcycles, vehicle parts and tools to BC’s Civil Forfeiture Office (CFO).

 

Learn more: news.gov.bc.ca/releases/2017PSSG0016-000280

"6. If any trees or shrubs shall by means of their roots, branches or otherwise, become detrimental to the adjacent lots or avenues, or dangerous or inconvenient to passengers, or in any way objectionable, it shall be the duty of the said directors for the time being, and they shall have the right to enter into any lot and remove the said trees and shrubs or such parts thereof as are thus detrimental, dangerous or inconvenient.

7. The proprietors of lots and their families shall be allowed access to the grounds at all proper times, observing the rules which are or may be adopted for the regulation of visitors.

  

Rules Concerning Visitors

Each proprietor of a lot will be entitled to a ticket of admission to the Cemetery which will admit the holder thereof, with a vehicle, under the following rules, the violation of which, or a loan of the ticket, involves a forfeiture of the privilege: -

1. No vehicle will be admitted unless accompanied by a proprietor, or a member of his or her household, with his or her ticket, unless the person applying shall present a special ticket of admission obtained at the office of the Cemetery or of a Director.

2. No vehicle will be allowed to pass through the grounds at a rate faster than a walk.

3. No person will be admitted on horseback without obtaining a special ticket of admission.

4. Driving on the paths will not be allowed.

5. Drivers of carriages at funerals are required to remain in their seats during the performance of funeral ceremonies.

6. No vehicle or horse shall, on any pretence whatever, be driven upon or over a burial plot.

7. Proprietors of carriages and horses will be held responsible for any damages done by them or their drivers, in violation of the rules of the Cemetery.

8. No horse shall be left by the driver nonfastened or where he may do injury.

9 Dogs will not be admitted.

10. All persons are prohibited from picking any flowers, wild or cultivated, or breaking any tree, shrub or plant, or entering any individual's enclosure without the leave of the owner.

11. All persons are prohibited from writing upon, defacing or injuring any monument, fence or other structure or tree in or belonging to the Cemetery.

12. The gate-keeper is charged to prohibit the entrance of all improper persons, as well as those who, through presenting tickets, may be known to have at any time wilfully transgressed the rules.

13. No money shall be paid to the gate-keeper, or any other persons in the employ of the Company, in reward for any personal services or attentions.

14. The gates will be opened at sunrise and closed (for entrance) at sunset. (Visitors are reminded that these grounds are appropriately for the interment of the dead. It is therefore indispensable that there should be a strict observance of all the proprieties due the place. The Superintendent is authorized to remove all those who violate the rules. Trespassers are liable to criminal prosecution, and to a fine. They will also be subject to pay damages, and repair such injuries as they have occasioned).

 

Rules Concerning Interments

1. The Superintendent will see that suitable persons are in attendance at every interment.

2. In each case of burial, a statement, giving the name, place of nativity, residence (with street if the person is from the Town), age and disease of the person to be interred, and showing whether married or unmarried, must be furnished to the Superintendent, that an accurate registry thereof may be made. The size on top of the coffin or case, must be mentioned, and the location of the graves to be opened should be accurately designated by a diagram drawn on the back of the statement, or giving the lot, range, and plot in which is to be made, if required.

3. Notice of each interment to be made shall be given at the office of the superintendent at least ten hours of daylight previous thereto, as the Directors cannot be responsible for having graves prepared in time for funerals, unless notice shall be given to the Secretary of at least ten hours of daylight previous to the hour of the said funeral."

Finally I got to see inside St James. It is one of the furthest church from Chez Jelltex, so assurance from the Heritage weekend that it would be open. So with a sigh I set off on the hour long drive.

 

And as you can see, it was open, and was greeted warmly, as I usually am at manned churches, especially on Heritage Day. Proud people are of their churches, the parish and history.

 

St James is as far along the Hundred of Hoo to be nearly in the sea.

 

---------------------------------------------------

 

A small and remote church at the end of the Hoo Peninsula. The usual two-cell Norman church was extended and partially rebuilt in the late twelfth century by the addition of north and south aisles, the introduction of reredos niches for the nave altars and new windows in the chancel. The aisles were demolished in the early nineteenth century, but their blocked arcades are still clearly visible. The reredos niches are both painted with thirteenth-century five-petalled flowers, whilst the southern one also shows the figure of a bearded bishop. There are the remains of two Norman windows in the nave, and a group of thirteenth-century coffin lids. Despite its medieval size the church did not possess a tower until the present one was built in 1905. It tries very hard, and is built in the right architectural style, but the fact that it is shorter than the nave means that it is a rather poor relation to others in the area. Over the south door is an unusual piece of carved stone representing a Sheila-na-gig, or pagan goddess of reproduction, displaying rather more than a lady should!

 

www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Grain

 

------------------------------------------------

 

THE island of Graine, though on the opposite side of the river Medway, and at some miles distance from the rest of this hundred, yet being within the manor of Gillingham, has always been esteemed as a part of it.

 

It is written in the Textus Roffensis, and other antient manuscripts, Grean, Gryen, and Gren, and lies next to the hundred of Hoo, from which it is separated by a small stream; the south and east sides of it adjoin to the river Medway, the latter of them being opposite to Sheerness; the north side of it joins to the Thames, forming that land where those two rivers meet. It is in size about three miles and a half long, and two miles and a half wide, and contains only one parish, called St. James.

 

The water, which separates it from the hundred of Hoo, is called the Stray; the northern mouth of which, next the Thames, is called the North Yenlet, as that next the Medway is called Colemouth, though the whole of it formerly went by the name of Yenlet, or Yenlade, and in very antient times was no doubt, as well as that of the same name between the isle of Thanet and the main land, of much larger size than it has been for a long time past; for even in the time of king Henry VIII. this island appears only to have been encompassed at flood. (fn. 1) This water of Yenlet seems once to have been the usual passage for all vessels from and to London, which thereby avoided the more exposed and longer navigation round the outside of this island, as they did likewise that round the isle of Shepey, by going through the Swale between that and the main land, both which waters are mentioned in several old writings as part of the river Thames. So late as the reign of king Edward III. this seems to have been the most accustomed passage, for in the 11th year of, the strict ward and watch being set, according to old custom, along the sea coast of this county, one of them appears to have been set at La Yenlade in Hoo, and to have consisted of twelve men at arms and six hobelers; which latter were a kind of light horse, who rode about from place to place in the night, to gain intelligence of the landing of boats, men, &c. and were probably so called from the hobbies, or small horses, on which they rode.

 

The island of Graine is in shape nearly an oblong square; it lies very flat and low; the greatest part of it consists of pasture and marshes, the vast tracts of the latter, in the neighbourhood of it, and the badness of the water, makes it as unwholesome as it is unpleasant; so that the inhabitants mostly consist of a few lookers or bailiffs, and of those who work at the salt works, and such like, who have not wherewithal to seek a residence elsewhere. The entrance into this island, from the hundred of Hoo, is on the south side of it, over a causeway across Stoke marshes. The church of St. James, the only one in it, is situated at the northern part of the island, about a quarter of a mile from the shore. There is no village, the few houses stand dispersed, the farthest not more than a mile's distance southward from the church. There are two sets of saltworks, or saltpans as they are called, the one situated close to the water, at the southern boundary of the island, the other on Mr. Davenport's estate of Wall-end, on the eastern boundary of the island close to the Medway. In short, I cannot give a better description of it than in Mr. Johnson's words, in his little book of Kentish plants, intitled, Iter Plantarum Investigationis ergo susceptum, where he gives an account of his journey, July 13, 1629, in search of simples to this island. He says, "Having left our small boat we walked five or six miles, seeing nothing which could afford us any pleasure; upon the walls we were tormented, for it was in the middle of the day, on account of the heat, with an intolerable thirst, Tantalus like, in the midst of waters (for they were salt); nor were we less oppressed with hunger in this barbarous country, where there was not a village near, nor the smoke of a chimney in sight, nor the barking of a dog within hearing, those usual signs of inhabitants, to raise our languid minds to any kind of hope."

 

The commission of sewers, which extends from Gravesend to Sheerness, and up the river Medway to Penshurst, takes charge of the sea walls round this island, excepting those adjoining to Mr. Davenport's estate, which are repaired at no small expence by the proprietor; they are divided into two levels, called the South-west and North-west levels.

 

THE MANOR of Graine was antiently part of the possessions of the archbishopric of Canterbury, where it remained till the reign of king Henry VIII. in the 37th year of which archbishop Cranmer, conveyed all his estates in this parish, together with his right to wreck of the sea to that king. (fn. 2)

 

King Edward VI. in the 5th year of his reign, granted this manor of Graine to his beloved and faithful counsellor, Sir George Broke, lord Cobham, late belonging to the archbishop, to hold in capite, by knights service, his grandson, Henry lord Cobham, being convicted of high treason in the 1st year of king James I. it became forfeited to the crown, and was confirmed to it by an act passed in the 3d year of that reign, (fn. 3) from which time it seems to have remained in the crown till the death of king Charles I. when it appears to have been esteemed as part of the manor of Gillingham, the quit rents of which in this island then amounted to 24l. 10s. 10¼. from the freeholders in free socage tenure; since the Restoration it has been granted as an appendage to that manor, in which state it continues at present, being as such now possessed by Multon Lambard, esq. of Sevenoke.

 

THERE is another manor here, called the MANOR of GRAINE, alias ROSE-COURT, which in the reign of king Edward III. was the estate of the family of Cobham of Cobham, in this county. Sir John de Cobham died possessed of it in that reign, and his son of the same name having together, with Sir Robert Knolys, built the new bridge at Rochester, amortized his two manors of Graine and Tilbury, worth forty marcs yearly above all reprises, to the support of it for ever, (fn. 4) and it continues at this time part of the possessions of the wardens and commonalty of that bridge, for the purposes above mentioned.

 

THERE is a good estate in that part of this island next the river Medway, which consists of several farms, lands, and salt works, the principal of which is called, from its situation, WALL-END FARM.

 

This estate has, from the earliest accounts of time, had the same owners as the manor of Malmains in Stoke, in this neighbourhood. In the reign of king Edward III. it was in the possession of the family of Malmains, from whom it passed into the name of Filiot, and thence into that of Carew, of Beddington, in Surry; and from that family, in the reign of Henry V. to Iden; from which name it was alienated at the latter end of king Henry VIII. to John Parke, whose sole daughter and heir, Elizabeth, carried it in marriage to John Roper, esq. of Linsted, in this county, who, in the 14th year of king James I. was created baron of Teynham, in this county. His son, Chris topher Roper, lord Teynham, (fn. 5) succeeded him in his estate here, which he increased by obtaining a grant of lands in this island, formerly belonging to the nunnery of Minster in Shepey, which were given to it by archbishop Corboil; all which continued in his descendants to Henry lord Teynham, who, on his marriage with the lady Anne, daughter and coheir of Thomas Lennard, earl of Sussex, and widow of Rich. Barrett Lennard, esq. of Belhouse, in Essex, afterwards baroness Dacre, settled this estate, after her life therein, on the issue of that marriage. Lady Dacre afterwards married the Hon. Robert Moore, and died possessed of it in 1755; (fn. 6) on which the fee became vested in Trevor Charles Roper and Henry Roper, the infant sons and coheirs in gavelkind of the Hon. Charles Roper, her eldest son by lord Teynham; but by a decree of the court of chancery, for the sale of this estate to satisfy incumbrances, and an act having been obtained for that purpose, in 1765, it was conveyed to the Rev. Fr. H. Foote, of Charlton, in Bishopsbourne, whose eldest son, John Foote, esq. afterwards succeeding to it, passed it away by sale to Mr. Thomas Lovett, who at his decease devised it to his son of the same name, on whose death it descended to his sister, now the wife of Mr. Davenport, of London, who in her right is at this time entitled to it.

 

The priory of Rochester was in very early times possessed of lands in this island. In 1076, archbishop Lanfranc, in the solemn assembly of the whole county, held by the Conqueror's command at Pinenden heath, recovered from Ralph de Curva Spina, or Crookthorne, sixty shillings rent of pasture (fn. 7) in Grean, which had been taken from that church, and which he immediately restored to it. There were several gifts af towards made to the priory of marshes in this island, as may be seen throughout the Textus and Registrum Roffense; and king Henry I. confirmed to it a fishery in Grean, afterwards called the Niwewere, for which they paid the archbishops five shillings yearly; which rent archbishop Ralf released to them for ever; and he likewise, by his charter, prohibited all persons from fishing in the Thames, before the fishery of the monks of Niwewere, under pain of forfeiture to him if they should be found fishing beyond.

 

Archbishop Baldwin, in the 1st year of king Richard I. intending to erect a chapel and other buildings within the manor of Lambeth, which then belonged to the monks of Rochester, granted to them, in lieu of the land there belonging to the manor, on which the chapel was to be built, and the area lying round it, one bercary or sheep-cote in the isle of Gren, with all its appurtenances, in marsh, lands, wreck, and in all other matters belonging to it, to hold to them as the demesnes of the said manor, free from all service and demand; and he made a further addition, by granting to them the services yearly due to him and his successors for those bercaries or sheep-cotes, which the monks held of him in Gren, which their tenants at all times in future should pay and be answerable for to them. These premises in Gren were particularly excepted out of the exchange made between archbishop Hubert and the monks of Rochester, of the manors of Lambeth and Darent, in the 7th year of king Richard I. (fn. 8) In the 21st year of king Edward I. upon a Quo warranto, the prior of Rochester claimed to have wreck of the sea in the above marsh, which was adjoining to it, for that archbishop Baldwin, at the time he possessed it, and the prior and his predecessors from the time of the said exchange, had beyond memory possessed that liberty without interruption; and the same was allowed him by the jury.

 

All these marshes, lands, and rents, with their appurtenances, which had been given to the priory of Rochester, remained part of its possessions at the dissolution of it in the 32d year of king Henry VIII. when they were surrendered into the king's hands; who, by his dotation charter, in the 32d year of his reign settled them, together with other premises here, (fn. 9) late belonging to the dissolved priory of Leeds, on his new erected dean and chapter of Rochester, with whom the inheritance of them now continues.

 

THE ISLAND OF GRAINE is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Rochester, and being one of the archbishop's peculiars, is as such within the deanry of Shoreham. The church, which is dedicated to St. James, consists of three isles and a chancel.

 

In it are the following memorials and inscriptions—In the middle isle, a brass for William Hykks, and Joan his wife; another for Jonathan Hykks and Agnes his wife; he died in 1494. Memorial for the Godfreys. In the chancel, a brass for John Cardys, who made the pavement, obt. 1452. (fn. 10)

 

¶This church antiently belonged to the nunnery at Minster in Shepey, (fn. 11) to which it was appropriated before the reign of king Edward I. It continued part of the possessions of that monastery till the dissolution of it, which happened soon after the act passed, in the 27th year of king Henry VIII. for the suppression of those religious houses which had not 200l. per annum clear income; of which number this was one. The church thus coming into the hands of the crown, king Henry VIII. in his 36th year, granted among other premises the rectory of St. James, in the isle of Graine, with the advowson, to John Fynch, to hold in capite by knight's service. He died possessed of them, together with five hundred acres of arable, pasture, and salt marsh, in this island; all which he held as above mentioned, in the 4th year of Edward VI. His son, Clement Finch, at length became possessed of the whole of this estate, which he, in the eighteenth year of queen Elizabeth, alienated to Wm. Brooke, lord Cobham; whose descendant, Henry Brooke, lord Cobham, being attainted of high treason, in the 1st year of king James I. forfeited this, among the rest of his estates, to the crown, to which they were confirmed by an act passed for that purpose two years afterwards; (fn. 12) soon after which this rectory, with the advowson of the vicarage, was granted to Sir Edward Hales, bart. who died possessed of it in 1654.

 

How this rectory impropriate passed from his descendants I do not find; but Mr. John Page, of Rochester, possessed it for many years, and at his death, not long since, by his last will devised it to his kinsman, the Rev. Edmund Faunce, of Sutton-at-Hone, whose son of the same name is the present proprietor of it. This rectory is held of the crown, by the yearly fee farm rent of 1l. 2s. 10½d.

 

The advowson of the vicarage of this church passed with the rectory, through the same chain of ownership to Sir Edward Hales, bart. who died possessed of both in 1654; soon after which they seem to have had separate owners, and to have continued so till this time, the late proprietor of the advowson being Mr. Walter Nynn, since whose decease without issue, Mrs. Rachel Ray, widow, his sister and heir, is become intitled to it. It is valued in the king's books at 9l. 11s. 8d. per annum, and the yearly tenths at 19s. 2d.

 

In a taxation made in the reign of Edward III. it appears, that the church of Graine was then endowed with ten acres of arable and two of pasture, worth per annum, 4l. 3s. 4d. and of rents of assise to the amount of 48s. per annum. (fn. 13)

 

In the survey, taken after the death of Charles I. in 1650, of the several parsonages, vicarages, &c. in this diocese, it was returned, that there was in this parish a vicarage presentative, worth 50l. per annum, Sir Edward Hales, patron; incumbent, Mr. Edward Sparke; the parsonage an impropriation, worth 50l. per annum, Sir Edward Hales owner thereof. (fn. 14)

 

Dr. Plume, archdeacon of Rochester, who died in 1704, bequeathed five pounds per annum, towards teaching the poor children of this parish to read.

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-kent/vol4/pp250-258

Heritage Weekend is more than just the Saturday. In fact its more than one weekend. And the website for the weekend listed many intersting places to go, but few in east Kent on the Sunday, but St Margaret's being open was one of them.

 

So, after we had left St Mildred in Canterbury, we drove up the M2, and then through the usual strip malls and urban spread that is the Medway Towns.

 

The sat nav took us down narrow streets, across a main road, and up a slight hill, and announced we had arrived.

 

Nothing churchy leaped out at me.

 

I thought maybe down the narrow lane in front. It was then I saw the wall.

 

The wall looked chuchy. And beyond was an early 19th century building that had heritage bunting strung out.

 

Bingo.

 

The first view had the tower hidden by a tree, I thought perhaps it didn't have one.

 

But nearer to the church I could see it did have a tower, an a medieval one at that, it looked like an unhappy coupling.

 

I was given a very warm welcome, and the history of the church was explained:

 

the original church was in a ruinous state at the start of the 19th century, and when Army and Naval officers began to have houses built in the area, they wanted a nice fashionable church.

 

So the nave and chancel were taken down, and the current nave put in its place.

 

Built before the English Gothic fervour took hold.

 

The east and west windows have been replaced since the church was built.

 

------------------------------------------

  

THE PARISH OF ST. MARGARET is of large extent, and contains all the lands without the walls on the south side of the city, that are within the bounds of its jurisdiction. It is stiled in some records, St. Margaret's in Suthgate, (fn. 22) and in those of the city, the Borough of Suthgate. (fn. 23)

 

There are two streets of houses in this parish, the one called St. Margaret's-street, leading from Bully-hill to the church, and so on to Borstall and Woldham southward; the other at some distance from it called St. Margaret's-bank, being a long row of houses, situated on a high bank at the north-east boundary of the parish, on the south side of the great London road to Dover, between St. Catherine's hospital in Rochester, and the Victualling-office, in Chatham. These houses are within the manor of Larkhill.

 

THERE are SEVERAL MANORS within the bounds of this parish, the most eminent of which is that of

 

BORSTALL, which was given to the church of Rochester and bishop Beornmod, in the year 811, by Cænulf, king of Mercia, as three plough lands.

 

This manor seems to have continued part of the possessions of the church of Rochester, without any interruption, till the time of the conquest. It is thus described in the general survey of Domesday, taken in the year 1080, under the general title of Terra Epi Rovecestre, i. e. the lands of the bishop of Rochester.

 

In the hundred of Rochester, the same bishop (of Rochester) holds Borchetelle. In the time of king Edward the Confessor it was taxed at two sulings, and now for one suling and an half. The arable land is four carucates. In demesne there are two carucates, and six villeins with three carucates. There are 50 acres of meadow, and two mills of 20 shillings. In the time of king Edward, and afterwards, it was worth six pounds, and now 10 pounds.

 

In Rochester the bishop had, and yet has, 24 plats of ground, which belong to Frindsbury and Borstal, his own manors. In the time of king Edward the Confessor, and afterwards, they were worth three pounds, now they are worth eight pounds, and yet they yield yearly 11 pounds and 13 shillings and four-pence.

 

When bishop Gundulph was elected to this see in the time of the Conqueror, and after the example of his patron, archbishop Lanfranc, separated his own revenues from those of his convent, this manor in the division was allotted to the bishop and his successors.

 

On a taxation of the bishop of Rochester's manors, in 1255, it appears that the bishop had in the manor of Borstalle one hundred and forty acres of arable, estimated each acre at 4d. forty acres of salt meadow at 8d. each, and fourteen acres of salt pasture, each at 6d. which, with the rents of assise, made the total value of the whole manor 9l. 10s. 3d. the repair of the buildings yearly amounting to twenty shillings. (fn. 24)

 

This manor still continues in the possession of the bishop of Rochester; but the demesne lands are leased out by him to Mrs. Vade, of Croydon, in Surry.

 

By the agreement made between John Lowe, bishop of Rochester, and the bailiff and citizens of Rochester, in the 27th year of king Henry VI. concerning the limits of the jurisdiction of the city, according to the charter then lately made to them, this borough and manor of Borstall was declared to be exempt from the precinct of the hundred of Rochester, and the law-day of it, and from all payments, fines, suits forfeitures and amerciaments due on that account, as being within the liberty of the bishop, and his church. (fn. 25)

 

The monks of Rochester priory had several grants of TYTHES, and other premises made to them within this manor and hamlet.

 

Robert Ernulf and Eadric de Borstalle, gave the tithes of their lands in Borstalle to the priory, which were confirmed to it by several bishops of Rochester, and others (fn. 26) In which confirmations they are described, as the whole tithe of Borstalle of corn, and two parts of the tithes of the land of Ralph de Borstalle. (fn. 27) Eadric de Hescenden, with his wife and two sons, entered into the society of the monks of this priory, upon condition, that when they died, the monks should say a service for them, as for their brethren; and the monks were to have for ever the tithes of their lands in Borestealle and Freondesberie, but in corn only.

 

Several parcels of land, &c. lying within the manor or hamlet of Borstall, were likewise at times given to these monks. All these premises continued part of the possessions of the priory till the dissolution of it, in 1549, when they were surrendered into the king's hands, and were settled by him, three years afterwards, on his new founded dean and chapter of Rochester, where they remain at present.

 

This manor, with others in this neighbourhood, was bound antiently to contribute to the repair of the first pier of Rochester-bridge.

 

NASHENDEN is a manor in this parish, which lies about three-quarters of a mile south-eastward from Borstall. In the Textus Roffensis it is called Hescenden, and in Domesday, Essedene.

 

This manor was part of those vast possessions, with which William the Conqueror enriched his half-brother Odo, the great bishop of Baieux; accordingly it is thus entered, under the title of that prelate's lands, in the general survey of Domesday:

 

Rannulf de Columbels holds of the bishop (of Baieux) Essedene. It was taxed at one suling. The arable land is . . . . In demesne there is one carucate, and 19 villeins, with three borderers having three carucates. There are three servants, and 8 acres of meadow. In the time of king Edward the Confessor, it was worth three pounds, when he received it four pounds, now five pounds. Earl Leuuin held it.

 

It appears by the red book of the exchequer, that this estate in the reign of king Henry II. was held by Thomas de Nessingden, of Daniel de Crevequer, as one knight's fee of the old feoffment.

 

In the reign of king Edward I. this manor was become the property of Jeffry Haspale, whose descendant, John de Aspale, for so the name was then spelt, died possessed of Nashenden in the 31st year of that reign, holding it of the king in capite. After which it appears to have come into the name of Basing, and from thence quickly after into that of Charles.

 

Richard Charles, as appears by the inquisition taken after his death, anno 1 Richard II. died possessed of the manor of Naseden, which he held of the king in capite by knight's service, excepting forty acres of pasture and wood, which he held of the lord Grey, as of his manor of Aylesford; whose nephew, Richard, son of his brother Roger Charles, died possessed of it in the 11th year of that reign, holding it of the king in capite, as of his honor of Peverel and Hagenet, by knight's service.

 

Nicholas Haut afterwards possessed this manor, in right of his wife Alice, who was a descendant of the above-mentioned family. She held it for the term of her life with remainder to James Peckham, who on her death, in the 1st year of king Henry IV. came into the possession of it. He obtained the king's licence two years afterwards, to give and amortize to the wardens of Rochester-bridge, and their successors, this manor, and also one hundred acres of pasture, with their appurtenances in Ellesford, the manor then being worth yearly, and above all reprises 6l. 13s. 4d. per annum. (fn. 28) Since which it has continued part of the possessions of the wardens and commonalty of the said bridge, for the support and repair of it. The present lessees of this manor are Leonard Bartholemew and Phil. Boghurst, esqrs.

 

An account of the tithes of this manor will be given, with those of Little Delce in this parish. (fn. 29)

 

There was a chapel at this place, dependent on the parish church of St. Margaret. (fn. 29)

 

GREAT DELCE is a manor which, with the estate now called LOWER DELCE, lies on the eastern side of this parish, about half a mile southward from Eastgate, in Rochester. It was formerly called Much Delce and Delce Magna, or Great Delce, and was given by William the Conqueror to Odo, bishop of Baieux, his halfbrother, under the title of whose lands it is thus entered in the general survey of Domesday:

 

In the lath of Aylesford, in Rochester hundred, the son of William Tabum holds Delce of the bishop (of Baieux). It was taxed at one suling and one yoke. The arable land is . . . . . There is one carucate in demesne, and five villeins having five carucates. There are 12 acres of meadow, wood for the pannage of one bog. In the time of king Edward the Confessor, and afterwards, it was worth three pounds, and now 70 shillings. Godric held it of king Edward.

 

This manor afterwards came into the possession of a family, to which it gave name. Herebert, Gosfrid, and Hugo de Delce possessed it in successive generations. After which it passed to Buckerel, and the heirs of Thomas Buckerel, in the latter end of the reign of king Henry III. held it as two knights fees and a half, of Bertram de Criol. (fn. 30) After which this estate seems to have been separated into parcels, for Geoffry de Haspale held this manor as the fourth part of a knight's fee only, at the time of his death, in the 15th year of king Edward I. as appears by the inquisition taken for that purpose.

 

The next family who succeeded, as appears by the original deeds of this estate, was that of Molineux, descended from those of Sefton, in Lancashire; but they did not keep possession of it long, for by the evidence of an antient court roll, Benedict de Fulsham was lord of it in the 30th year of king Edward III. His descendant, Richard Fulsham, held it of the king in capite, as the fourth part of a knight's fee, at his death in the 5th year of king Henry V. Soon after which this name seems to have become extinct here; for in the 9th year of that reign, Reginald Love died possessed of it, and his successor held it till the latter end of king Henry VI's reign, when it passed by sale to William Venour, whose arms were, Argent, on a fess sable five escallops or, three and two, and who died possessed of this manor in the 1st year of king Edward IV. After which it was within a few months conveyed by sale to Markham, descended from an antient family of that name in Nottinghamshire, in which name it staid but a very short time before it was sold to Tate, who passed it away to Sir Richard Lee, citizen of London, and grocer, who served the office of lord-mayor in the 39th year of king Henry VI. and the 9th year of king Edward IV. (fn. 31) He was the eldest son of John Lee, of Wolksted, in Surry, and grandson of Symon Lee, who was descended of ancestors in Worcestershire, and bore for his arms, Azure, on a sess cotized or, three leopard's faces gules. He lies buried in the church of St. Stephen, Walbrook, his arms are remaining in East-Grinsted church, and in that of St. Dionis Backchurch, in London, with those of several marriages of his posterity; his son Richard Lee seems to have had this manor of Great Delce by gift of his father during his life-time, and kept his shrievalty at this mansion in the 19th year of the latter reign, his son Richard, who was both of Delce and of Maidstone, left two sons, the youngest of whom, Edward, was archbishop of York, (fn. 32) and the eldest Richard, was of Delce, whose only surviving son, Godfrey, in the 31st year of Henry VIII. procured his lands to be disgavelled, by the general act passed for this purpose, (fn. 33) after which his descendants continued to reside here for several generations, but Richard Lee, esq. about the latter end of queen Anne's reign, passed away the whole of this estate, excepting the manor, and forty acres of land, to Thomas Chiffinch, esq. of Northfleet, in this county, from which time this seat and estate acquired the name of Lower Delce.

 

Thomas Chiffinch, esq. died in 1727, and was succeeded by Thomas Chiffinch, esq. his only son and heir, who died without issue in 1775, and by his will bequeathed this, among his other estates, to his niece and heir-at-law, Mary, the daughter of his sister Elizabeth Comyns, who afterwards carried them in marriage to Francis Wadman, esq. of the Hive, in Northfleet, and he is the present possessor of Lower Delce.

 

THE MANOR OF GREAT DELCE, and the forty acres of land above-mentioned, together with a farm, called King's Farm, continued in the possession of Richard Lee, esq. who died possessed of them in 1724, and his grandson, Richard Lee, esq. of Clytha, in Wales, now possesses this manor; but in 1769, he alienated all the demesnes of it, together with King's farm, to Mr. Sampson Waring, of Chatham, who died possessed of them in 1769, leaving his brother, Mr. Walter Waring, and his sister, Mrs. Smith, of Lower Delce, his executors, who are at this time entitled to the profits of them. The court for the manor of Great Delce has not been held for some years.

 

The manor is held by castle-guard rent of Rochester castle; but when the mansion and most part of the lands were sold, as above mentioned, from Lee to Chiffinch, the former expressly charged the whole of that rent on the premises bought by Chiffinch, and entirely exonerated that part which he reserved to himself from paying any portion of it.

 

An account of the tithes of this manor, given to the priory of Rochester, may be seen under the following description of Little Delce manor.

 

LITTLE DELCE, or DELCE PARVA, now known by the name of UPPER DELCE, is a manor in this parish, situated in the high road between Rochester and Maidstone, somewhat more than a quarter of a mile from the former. This likewise, as well as that of Great Delce, was given by William the Conqueror to his half brother Odo, bishop of Baieux; under the general title of whose lands it is thus described in the book of Domesday:

 

In Rochester hundred, Ansgotus de Roucestre holds Delce of the bishop (of Baieux). It was taxed at one suling. The arable land is two carucates, and there are in demesne . . . . . . . with one villein, and five borderers, and six servants. There are 12 acres of meadow, and 60 acres of pasture. In the time of king Edward the Confessor, and afterwards, and now, it was, and is worth 100 shillings. Osuuard held it of king Edward.

 

This estate, on the disgrace of bishop Odo, most probably reverted again into the king's hands; and seems afterwards to have been in the possession of a family, who assumed their name, De Delce, from it, and held it of William de Say, as one knight's fee. (fn. 34)

 

In the reign of king John, this manor was in the possession of Jeffry de Bosco, a Norman; but when that province was seized by the king of France, the lands of the Normans, in this kingdom, became vested in the crown, by way of escheat or seizure, under the title of, Terra Normanorum; thus the manor of Little Delce was seized by king John, in the 5th year of his reign, who gave it to William de Ciriton, the sheriff, for two hundred pounds, two palfreys, and two gols hawks, (fn. 35) on condition, that if the said Jeffry should return to his allegiance, he should, without delay, again possess the same. (fn. 36) But this never happened, and this manor continued in the desendants of William de Ciriton. Odo de Ciriton died possessed of it it in the 31st year of king Henry III. holding it of the king in capite, by the service of one knight's fee. (fn. 37) This family was extinct here before the middle of the reign of king Edward I. for in the 9th year of that reign, as appears by Kirkby's Inquest. Richard Pogeys held this manor. At the latter end of the reign of king Edward III. it was possessed by the family of Basing, from which name it went into that of Charles. Richard Charles died possessed of the manor of Little Delce, in the 1st year of king Richard II. leaving his brother's sons, Richard and John, his next heirs; the former of whom died possessed of it, anno 11 Richard II. and left a son, Robert Charles, who dying without issue, his two sisters became his coheirs, viz. Alice, married to William Snayth, and Joan to Richard Ormskirk; and on the division of their estates, this manor fell to the share of William Snayth, commonly called Snette, in right of his wife, Alice, the eldest of them. Soon after which, Charles and William Snette, for so the name is spelt in the bridge archives, gave and amortized this manor of Little Delce, of the yearly value of six marcs, above all reprises, to the wardens of Rochester bridge and their successors, for the support and repair of the same. Since which it has acquired the name of Upper Delce, by which it is now only known, and it continues at this time part of the possessions of the wardens and commonalty of the said bridge, for the purposes above mentioned. The present lessees of this manor are Leonard Bartholomew and Philip Boghurst, esqrs.

 

The tithes of Great and Little Delce, Borstal, and Nashenden, were given, in the time of bishop Gundulph, to the priory of Rochester.

 

Gosfrid de Delce, together with his wife and children, on their being admitted to be partakers of the benefits received from the prayers of the monks, gave the whole of the tithes of Little Delce, both great and small, to the priory of St. Andrew.

 

Ansgotus de Rovecestre accepted of the like benefit from the church of St. Andrew, and the monks there, in the time of bishop Gundulph, and gave to the church and monks there, all his tithes, both great and small, of Great Delce, and in like manner the whole of his tithe mill, and of a certain piece of land included within the wall of the monks, towards the south, and five acres of land near Prestefelde, and at their request, gave them, on his death bed, cloathing, and they performed service for him as for a monk.

 

Uulmer, the tenant of Arnulf de Hesdine, by the advice of Adelold, brother of Baldwin, monk of St. Andrew, accepted the benefit of that society, and gave to it his whole tithe, worth ten shillings yearly. Robert de St. Armand gave his tithes of Neschendene and Borstelle to St. Andrew's priory. These several tithes were confirmed to the priory by various bishops of Rochester; by Theobald, archbishop, and Ralph, prior, and the convent of Canterbury. They remained part of the possessions of the priory till their dissolution in 1540; three years after which they were settled on the new founded dean and chapter of Roter, where they still remain.

 

The PARISH of St. MARGARET, is Rochester, is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese and deanry of Rochester. The church is situated at the south extremity of St. Margaret's-street; it consists of one nave and two chancels on the south side of much later date than the church. That towards the east end was built and long supported by the family of Lee, of Great Delce, whose remains lie in a large vault under this chancel; but since the alienation of their mansion here, the repair of this part of the fabric has devolved on the parishioners. The chancel, at the east end of the church, belongs to the appropriator, who consequently repairs it. At the west end of the church is a tower, containing five bells; it is entirely covered with ivy to the top of it, which makes a most beautiful and picturesque appearance. Against the east wall, in the south chancel, is the antient bust of a man in robes, with a coronet on his head. (fn. 38) In the reign of king Charles II. a coronet, set round with precious stones, was dug up in this church yard; and the report of the parish has been, that one of our Saxon kings was buried here.

 

Among other monuments and inscriptions in this church are the following: In the chancel, a brass for Syr James Roberte Preess, obt. Sep. 24, 1540. A monument, arms, Head, impaling quarterly a chevron between three hawks belled or, for Francis Head, esq. eldest son of Sir Richard Head. bart. obt. 1678; he married the only daughter of Sir George Ent. In the north window, Argent. three crosses bottony fitchee sable, and argent on a bend quarterly, an efcallop gules. In a pew, partly in the chancel and partly in the nave, Argent on a bend gules, between two peliers, three swans proper. In the nave, a brass for Tho. Cod. vicar, a benefactor to the steeple of this church, obt. Nov. 1465. In the chancel, south of the rectors, a monument, arms, Argent, a right hand couped sable, impaling Lee, for Thomas Manly, esq the third son and heir of George Manly, of Lach, esq. he married Jane, second daughter of Richard Lee, esq. of Delce, and left one only son and two daughters, obt. 1690. In the east window, arms of Lee, Azure on a fess cotized, or three leopards heads gules. In a chapel, west of the Lee chancel, in the east wall, a bust of a person with a crown on his head, much defaced. (fn. 39)

 

At the time of bishop Gundulph's coming to the see of Rochester, and for almost a century afterwards, this church or chapel of St. Margaret, for it is frequently mentioned by both names, was accounted only as an appendage to the parochial altar of St. Nicholas in the cathedral, and the one underwent the same changes as the other; (fn. 40) and Walter, bishop of Rochester, in 1147, confirmed the above mentioned parochial altar, together with this church of St. Margaret, which belonged as a chapel to it, to the monks of this priory, and appropriated it to them. This grant was set aside by bishop Gilbert de Glanville, in the beginning of the reign of king Richard I. who not only separated this church from the altar of St. Nicholas, and divested the monks of all manner of right to it; but on the foundation of his hospital at Stroud about the same time, he gave, in pure and perpetual alms, among other premises, this church of St. Margaret to the master and brethren of it, and appropriated it to them, reserving only half a marc yearly to be paid to the priory, in lieu of the oblations which the monks used to receive from it. (fn. 41)

 

The monks by no means acquiesced in this gift, but seized every opportunity of asserting their right to this church, and after several appeals to the pope from time to time, and confirmation and decrees made in favour of each party, (fn. 42) the dispute seems to have been finally settled in 1255, when the pope adjudged, that this church of St. Margaret, with all its appurtenances, should for the future belong to the prior and chapter of Rochester; accordingly from the above time they kept possession of it.

 

From the time of bishop Walter's appropriation of the profits of the parochial altar of St. Nicholas, with this church appendant to it, to the prior and convent, to the divesting them of it by bishop Glanville, it is likely, instead of a curate being appointed, the duty of this parish was discharged by some member of the society, as it was probably afterwards, whilst in the possession of the hospital, by one of the priests of that foundation; however, within a few years after the convent recovered the permanent possession of St. Margaret's, a vicar was certainly appointed, for William Talevez occurs by that title in 1272.

 

The vicars seem to have had only a yearly stipend from the convent for their pains, for more than a century afterwards; but in 1401, the prior and chapter came into a composition with the vicar for the endowment of this church; in which they agreed, that the vicar and his successors should for the future have, for their maintenance, and the support of the burthens therein mentioned, a mansion with its appurtenances, to be assigned for the vicarage of it, and the accustomed and entire altarage of it, and all the small tithes of the three manors of Nessenden and Great and Little Delce, and of all goods and lands, except the tithes of mills, within the parish, and except the tithes, great, small, and mixed, arising from the lands, cattle, and other things belonging to the religious; and that he and his successors should have three quarters of wheat with three heaps, and three quarters of barley with three heaps, to be taken yearly at their barn, at the times therein mentioned, and the tithes of sheaves, which should arise in gardens not cultivated with the plough; and that the vicar and his suc cessors, content with the above portion, should not demand any thing further of the religious or their successors; and further, that he and they should undergo, at their own proper costs and charges, the burthens of repairing, maintaining, and new building, as often as need should be, the buildings, with their appurtenances, and all other things belonging to the said mansion, with its appurtenances, as well as all things belonging to the celebration of divine services, and the administration of the sacraments and sacramentals to the parishioners, and the finding of bread and wine, lights, books, vestments, and other ornaments necessary to the celebration of divine services, which of custom or right ought to belong to the secular rectors of this church; and also the procurations and subsidies, according to the taxation of his and their portion; but all other things whatsoever, belonging or which in future should belong to this church, as well as all tithes whatsoever, arising or to arise from the lands and possessions of the prior and convent within the parish, even though they should be let or sold to laymen, they the said prior and convent should take and have, who should likewise maintain and repair the chancel, except as before excepted, at their own proper costs and charges. Notwithstanding the stipulation of the vicar for himself and his successors, not to require any increase of their portion from the prior and convent, Edmund Harefelde, vicar of this church, did not consider this clause as obligatory upon him; for in 1488, he petitioned the bishop for an augmentation of his vicarial portion, who decreed, that the vicar and his successors should yearly receive, as the portion of his vicarage, from the prior and convent, five marcs in money; and out of the tithes and profits of this church, appropriated to the prior and convent, four quarters of wheat with four heaps, and four quarters of barley with four heaps, to be taken yearly at their barns of the Upper court, in Harreat, with liberty of entry and distress on the parsonage on non-payment; and he decreed, that the endowment of the vicarage, over and above the portion above mentioned, should be as follows, that the vicar for the time being should have the mansion of the vicarage of this church, with the garden adjoining, for his habitation, which they used to have of old time there, and then had; and all manner of oblations whatsoever within the bounds of the parish, and all manner of tithes whatsoever, as of hay, lambs, wool, mills, calves, chicken, pigs, geese, ducks, eggs, bees, honey, wax, cheese, milk, the produce of the dairy, flax, hemp, pears, apples, swans, pidgeons, merchandizes, fisheries, pastures, onions, garlics, and saffrons whatsoever arising and coming; and also the tithes of sheaves in gardens, whether cultivated with the plough or dug with the foot, increasing within the parish; and the tithes also of firewood, woods, thorns, silva cedua, as well as of all billets, faggots, and fardels whatsoever, within the limits of the parish; and he further decreed, that the burthens of repairing, amending, and new building the mansion, with every appurtenance belonging to it, and the celebration and ministration of the sacraments and the sacramentals to the parishioners, of the finding of bread and wine, and lights to the church, either of right or custom due, should belong to and be borne by the vicar and his successors, as well as all episcopal burthens of the said church, according to the taxation of his portion. But that the burthen of repairing and amending the chancel of the church, as well within as without, as also the finding and repairing of books, vestments, and other ornaments, for the celebration of those divine rights, which of old, either by right or custom, belonged to the rectors of the church, should in future be borne by the prior and convent and their successors, at their own proper charge and expence; and that all other burthens, ordinary and extraordinary, of the vicarage, and to the vicar belonging, by reason of tha same, except as before excepted, should belong to him and his successors, to be borne and supported at his and their own proper costs and charges; saving to the bishop and his successors, a right of augmenting and diminishing this vicarage, and of correcting, amending, and explaining the above decree, whenever he or they should think it expedient so to do; and saving to himself and his successors, all episcopal right, (fn. 43) &c.

 

The appropriation of this church, and the patronage of the vicarage, continued part of the possessions of the prior and convent till the dissolution of the monastery, in 1540, when it was surrendered into the king's hands, who three years after, by his dotation charter, settled this appropriation and vicarage on his new founded dean and chapter of Rochester, where they remain at this time.

 

Adjoining to the north wall of the church yard is a piece of ground, which has probably belonged to the vicars of this parish ever since their first institution here; an antient court roll mentions their being possessed of it in the year 1317.

 

In the 5th year of king Edward III. John de Folkstan, vicar of St. Margaret's, held a messuage, with its appurtenances, adjoining to the church yard, by the assignment of the prior and convent, with the ordination of the bishop, as belonging to the portion of his vicarage; which messuage, with its appurtenances, was held of the master and brethren of the hospital of Stroud, by fealty, and the service of two shillings yearly, and also the payment of twelvepence to them, after the death of each vicar. (fn. 44)

 

The vicars, I am told, now hold this piece of land of the dean and chapter, as of their manor of Ambree, on their paying a small acknowledgment.

 

The vicarage house being from age become irreparable, was taken down, with an intention of erecting a convenient and substantial dwelling in the room of it; for which purpose Mr. Lowth, the late vicar, for several years deposited an annual sum with the dean and chapter, towards defraying the charges of it; and about 1781, erected on this spot a neat and convenient house, built of brick and sashed, with proper offices adjoining, for the use of himself and his successors, vicars of this parish. By an agreement between John Ready, vicar of it, and the dean and chapter, the former, in consideration of several benefits and benevolences done to him by the latter, consented to take an annual payment of 5l. 6s. 8d. instead of the pension in money and corn, granted by the composition made in 1488. Some recompence indeed has since been made for this unjust bargain by the dean and chapter, who have settled on it a larger augmentation than on any other church in their patronage. The vicarage of St. Margaret is valued in the king's books at 10l. and the yearly tenths at 1l. (fn. 45)

 

¶In the survey, taken after the death of Charles I. in 1649, of the church livings within this diocese, by the powers then in being, on the intended abolition of deans and chapters, it was returned, that there were belonging to this rectory or parsonage, a parsonagehouse, two barns, one stable, and other houshings, and also certain tithes, profits, &c. belonging to it, together with certain glebe land, called Court-hill and Court hill marsh, containing together nine acres, and and one marsh, lying in the parish of St. Nicholas, Rochester, called Cow marsh, with the waste ground called salts, containing together seven acres, and all that piece of ground called Upper court, alias Hogshaw, containing one acre; in all seventeen acres, worth together 130l. per annum, viz. the house and lands, 12l. per annum, and the tithes 118l. per ann. all which were let, among other premises, by Henry King, late dean of the cathedral church of Rochester, by his indenture, in 1639, to George Newman, esq. for twenty-one years, at the yearly rent, for Preestfield and Stroud marsh, of 4s. 4d. per annum, and for all the other premises twelve quarters of wheat, heaped, making together the yearly rent of 31l. 1s. 8d. Next the vicarage was, in like manner surveyed, and returned at the yearly value of 30l. (fn. 46)

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-kent/vol4/pp153-182

I am currently trying to revisit all the churches photographed in the first few years of the Kent Churches Project, which means seeing some great and humble buildings, and sometimes surprise that some did not make more of an impact on me first time time round.

 

Why sits in the shadow of the downs, Wye down being nearest, of course, and also beside the Stour. The chuch sits beside the old main road and beside the old college, with the village spread to its south side.

 

All I remembered from my first time was the glass outer porch door, but my overwhelming feeling this time was of space and light in the mighty high nave.

 

-------------------------------------------

 

A very strange church, the result of the collapse of a tall central tower in 1686. The nave of the medieval church survives almost intact, while the chancel has been constructed from the remains of the central crossing of the thirteenth-century church, and a new tower built. The nave is tall and light, and contrasts well with the short narrow apsed chancel that now contains mural tablets to the Sawbridge and Drax families who lived at Olantigh. The reredos is plain early eighteenth-century work and ties in nicely with the dark oak panelling. The choir stalls which stand in the nave were a thanksgiving memorial for the life of President Kennedy. The west window, which represents Christ in Majesty, is set into plain glass and was designed by Gerald Smith in the 1950s. It is an object lesson in how good glass of this period could be.

 

www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Wye

 

------------------------------------------

 

WYE

LIES the next parish eastward from Challock. It is spelt in Domesday, and other antient records, Wy.

 

¶THE PARISH lies in a healthy country, great part of it being in the fertile Ashford vale; the fine pasture down hills of Wye and Braborne bound the eastern side of it, as does another range of hills on the opposite side, the tops of which are skirted by the large extent of woodland, called King's and Challock woods, over which, for near two miles, this parish reaches westward almost to the church and village of Molash. It contains about two hundred and thirteen houses, and fourteen hundred inhabitants; the rents of it are about 4500l. per annum. The soil of it is various, the hills above mentioned, as well as the vale between in the northern part of it, are mostly chalk; the rest of it a red cludgy earth, much intermixed with slints, a wet unpleasant soil; the meadows near the river are very sertile and rich. The town of Wye, in which the fine tower of the church is a conspicuous object, stands in the vale on the river Stour, which directs its course throught the parish in its way to Canterbury; over it here is a stone bridge of five arches, built in 1630, in the room of the former wooden one, at the charge of the county; the river is plentifully stowed hereabouts with pikes. The town, which stands low and damp, and from that and its soil an unpleasant situation, is a neat well-built town, consisting of two parallel and two cross streets, the whole unpaved. There is a large green in it, built round, on one side of which is the church and college close to it, and on the other a house, which was once the gaol to the manor-court, but long since disused.

 

There is a tradition, that the town once stood in the valley, which lies between Wye-down and Crundal, where the hamlet of Pett-street now is, about which there are still remaining several deep disused wells, and this place is still called Town borough, where as that in which Wye town stands is called Bewbridge-borough. About half a mile westward from the town is a pleasant seat, called Spring-grove, built by Thomas Brett, esq. of this parish, in 1674, who afterwards resided in it.

 

The south part of the parish below the town, is full of small inclosures, and the soil deeper. In it is a hamlet, called Withersden, formerly accounted a manor, in which there is a well, which was once famous, being called St. Eustace's well, taking its name from Eustachius, abbot of Flai, who is mentioned by Matt. Paris, p. 169, an. 1200, to have been a man of learning and sanctity, and to have come and preached at Wye, and to have blessed a fountain there, so that afterwards its waters were endowed, by such miraculous power, that by it all diseases were cured. Hence the parish extends itself further southward by a narrow slip, between Brook and Braborne, to Nacolt-wood, once reputed likewise a manor, and the tile-kiln of that name.

 

Almost one half of the parish now belongs to Mr. Sawbridge, his estate here being greatly increased by his father's late purchase of the estates of Bond Hopkins, esq. which consist of Wye-court, Harvile, Coldharbour, Wye-downs, and Nacolt, in this parish; they formerly, I conjecture, belonged to Wye college, and afterwards to the Kempes; they were bought in chancery by John Hopkins. esq. commonly called from his rapacity, Vulture Hopkins, who died immensely rich in 1732, and devised his estates so as not to be inherited till after the second generation, then unborn; but the court of chancery set the will aside, and gave his estates to his heir-at-law, from whom they descended to the above-mentioned Bond Hopkins, esq. In the northern part of it stands the stately mansion of Ollantigh, close to the river, which is here beautifully formed by art to ornament it. Adjoining are the park-grounds, containing near six hundred acres, which extend almost as far as Wye town; and the eastern part of the ridge of hills called Wye-downs, the chain of which reaches to the sea-shore at Folkestone. On the summit of the hill, at the eastern extremity of this parish, is Fanscomb-beech, a tree visible to all the country round, to a great distance; near it was formerly a cottage, of the same name, now pulled down, and the lands laid into Mr. Sawbridge's park grounds. Also near it is Fannes wood, now a cottage, and belonging to him likewise. Both these were formerly esteemed manors of good account. The manor of Fannes, alias Fanscombe, formerly belonged to the master of the Savoy, now to St. Thomas's hospital, in Southwark, and that of Fannes wood, formerly the property of the Kempes, to Mr. Sawbridge.

 

The high road from Canterbury to Ashford leads along this parish, about half a mile distance westward from Ollantigh, on higher ground from whence there is a fine view over the vale beneath and the opposite downs, including the mansion and grounds of Ollantigh, and the town and church of Wye, which it leaves in its course at the same distance.

 

It is by some supposed that the Romans had a highway through this parish, which went on towards Lenham, and so to Aylesford; and the several remains of that nation dug up on Tremworth-down, in the adjoining parish of Crundal, on the side of it next to this parish, will serve to strengthen this conjecture. Wye had formerly a market on a Thursday, granted to the abbot of Battell, which was held in the time of king Henry VIII. It was held in Leland's time, who calls it a pratie market townelet; but it has been for some time disused. The two fairs formerly held here on St. Gregories day, March 23, and on All Souls day, Nov. 2, are now held on May 29 and Sept. 3, yearly, for Welch cattle, stock, &c.

 

There were formerly several families of good account resident in this town and parish, the Finch's, lived at Wye-court, descended from those of Sewards, in Linsted, a younger branch of the Finch's, of Eastwell; the Swans, removed hither from Lyd. Francis Swan, esq. resided here, his house being in the town of Wye, at the latter end of Henry VIII.'s reign. They bore for their arms, Azure, a chevron, ermine, between three swans, proper; the Twisdens, one of whom, Roger Twisden, gent. was of Wye, had a lease of the scite of the manor of Wye, and other premises here, from the abbot of Battel, anno 25 Henry VIII. and the Haules, who were antiently written De Aula five Haule, in Latin deeds, likewise resided here for several generations, till they removed to Maidstone in king James the 1st.'s reign, where George Haule, esq. of Maidstone, died in 1652. Elizabeth his daughter, and at length sole heir, married Sir Thomas Taylor, bart. of that parish. They bore for their arms, Or, on a saltier, five mulets of the field.

 

In this parish Major George Somner, brother to the antiquary, was killed in an engagement with the rebels, in 1648.

 

ON THE PLACE where the famous and decisive battle between king Harold and William, duke of Normandy, was fought in 1066, the Conqueror in the next year began to build a noble abbey, named from that event, Battell abbev; in Latin records, Abbatia de Bello; the royal founder endowing it with exemptions and privileges of a very extraordinary nature, and with many manors and good estates; among which was this Royal manor of Wye, with all its appendages, being of the demesnes of his crown, as the grant expresses it, with all liberties and royal customs, as well here as in Dengemarsh, which belonged to the court of Wye, (fn. 1) as freely as he himself held it, or as a king could grant it. Accordingly it is thus entered in the record of Domesday, under the title of land of the church of Battell, or De Labatailge, as there spelt.

 

¶The abbot of St. Martin, of the place of Battle, holds the manor which is called Wi, which in the time of king Edward the Confessor, and now, was and is taxed at seven sulings. The arable land is fifty-two carucates. In demesne there are nine carucates, and one hundred and fourteen villeins, with twenty-two borderers, having seventeen carucates. There is a church, and seven servants, and four mills of twenty-three shillings and eight pence, and one hundred and thirty three acres of meadow, and wood for the pannage of three hundred bogs. In the time of king Edward the Confessor it was worth no more than twenty pounds and one hundred shillings, and six shillings and eight pence; when be received it, one hundred and twenty-five pounds, and ten shilling of the twenty in ore; (fn. 2) now one hundred pounds by tale; and if the abbot bad had sac and soc, it would have been worth twenty pounds more.

 

Ralf de Curbespina holds one denne and one yoke of the land, of the sockmen of this manor, and pays by custom six pence. Adelulf two parts of one suling, and pays twelve pence; and Hugo de Montfort has two yoke, and pays three hundred eels and two shillings; and in the time of king Edward the Confessor, they paid both sac and soc.

 

Of the twenty-two hundreds, there belonged to this manor, sac and soc, and all forfeitures, which of right belonged to the king.

 

For such was the dignity of this manor, which then consisted of seven sulings, or hides of land, that, as the antient book of this abbey expressed it, with its own hundred, it had jurisdiction over twenty-two hundreds and an half, which belonged to its court.

 

WYE is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Bridge.

 

The church, which is dedicated to St. Gregory and St. Martin, stands at the north-west corner of the town of Wye, and was built by cardinal Kempe, when he founded the college of Wye in the reign of king Henry VI. being a handsome, large building, with three isles and as many chancels, and a high spire steeple in the middle, which stood on four lofty arches, supported by a like number of large pillars. The great chancel was made choir fashion, wainscotted, and seated round for the members of the new col lege. The north chancel was appointed for the burying-place of the Kempes, owners of Ollantigh; and in the south chancel the parishioners of the better sort were interred. According to tradition, it stood antiently on a little hill just at the entrance into the town from the river, and which is now called Boltshill, but was removed to this place, where it now stands, by the cardinal. In 1572, the steeple was burnt by lightning, and though it was soon afterwards rebuilt, under the care of Gregory Brett, then churchwarden, who was a great contributor to the expence of it; for which the parishioners granted to him and his heirs, a vault, in the middle isle, for their burial; yet in 1685 it fell, and beat down the greatest part of the middle chancel, almost all the two side ones, and the east end of the body of the church, by which all the monuments in the north chancel, of the Kempes, and Thornhills, of Ollantigh, were wholly destroyed, and the tombstone which lay over the cardinal's father and mother, broken to pieces, whose epitaph is preserved by Weever, p. 274. The fragments of several of the old tombstones lay for several years afterwards seattered about the church-yard, and some statues and parts of monuments lay at the lower end of the church; but they have since been removed and there are now none remaining. After this, the remaining part was inclosed with boards, at the east end, to make it fit for divine service, and the rest lay in ruins till the year 1701, when a brief was procured for the rebuilding of it, and within a year or two afterwards it was begun, the remainder of the old chancels was taken down, and only the present small chancel built up at the east end, in the room of that where the choir was, and a tower steeple on the south side, between the chancel and the body of the church, with battlements, and four pinnacles with gilt vanes on them. The present building is small, but neat. It consists, of three isles, the middle one having an upper story and range of windows. There is only one small chancel, new built, circular at the east end, which does not reach near so far as the old one, which extended several feet further, Mr. Chamberlain Godfrey's monument, in the church yard standing, as is said, where the altar formerly did. Towards building the steeple and chancel, the lady Joanna Thornhill, the prebendaries of Canterbury, and others, were contributors, and Richard Thornhill, esq. gave the pavement of the chancel. In the steeple are eight bells and a clock, which were completed in 1774. The only memorials of any time remaining, are three in the body of the church, viz. two for the Bretts, and one having the figures, in brass, of a woman between her two husbands, and underneath of several children, and at bottom an inscription, beginning John Andrew Justus, Thomas Palmer q; venustus, &c. In the chancel is a memorial for Mrs. Catherine Matchem, daughter of George Finch, gent. of this parish, obt. 1713; a monument over a vault, in which lie Agnes and Mary Johnton; the former died in 1763, the latter in 1767, they were descended from Sir Robert Moyle, of Buckwell; and a monument for lady Joanna Thornhill, daughter of Sir Bevill Granville, second wife of Richard Thornhill, esq. of Ollantigh, commander of a regiment of horse raised at his own charge, obt. 1708.

 

This church, appurtenant to the manor of Wye, was given, with it, to the abbey of Battel at its foundation by the Conqueror, and was appropriated to it before the year 1384, being the 8th year of king Richard II. In which state it continued till the reign of king Henry VI. when cardinal Kempe obtained the king's licence to purchase the advowson of the vicarage of the abbot of Battel, and settled it on his newfounded college here, as will be further mentioned hereafter; but the rectory appropriate of Wye remained part of the possessions of the abbey till its dissolution in the 30th year of king Henry VIII. when it came into the king's hands, where this rectory staid till king Edward VI. in his 5th year, granted it and the manor of the vicarage, together with the two tithebarns and the tithes themselves, all parcel of the late monastery of Battel, to Edward, lord Clinton and Saye, who reconveyed them back again to the king, within a month afterwards.

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-kent/vol7/pp340-368

I am currently trying to revisit all the churches photographed in the first few years of the Kent Churches Project, which means seeing some great and humble buildings, and sometimes surprise that some did not make more of an impact on me first time time round.

 

Why sits in the shadow of the downs, Wye down being nearest, of course, and also beside the Stour. The chuch sits beside the old main road and beside the old college, with the village spread to its south side.

 

All I remembered from my first time was the glass outer porch door, but my overwhelming feeling this time was of space and light in the mighty high nave.

 

-------------------------------------------

 

A very strange church, the result of the collapse of a tall central tower in 1686. The nave of the medieval church survives almost intact, while the chancel has been constructed from the remains of the central crossing of the thirteenth-century church, and a new tower built. The nave is tall and light, and contrasts well with the short narrow apsed chancel that now contains mural tablets to the Sawbridge and Drax families who lived at Olantigh. The reredos is plain early eighteenth-century work and ties in nicely with the dark oak panelling. The choir stalls which stand in the nave were a thanksgiving memorial for the life of President Kennedy. The west window, which represents Christ in Majesty, is set into plain glass and was designed by Gerald Smith in the 1950s. It is an object lesson in how good glass of this period could be.

 

www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Wye

 

------------------------------------------

 

WYE

LIES the next parish eastward from Challock. It is spelt in Domesday, and other antient records, Wy.

 

¶THE PARISH lies in a healthy country, great part of it being in the fertile Ashford vale; the fine pasture down hills of Wye and Braborne bound the eastern side of it, as does another range of hills on the opposite side, the tops of which are skirted by the large extent of woodland, called King's and Challock woods, over which, for near two miles, this parish reaches westward almost to the church and village of Molash. It contains about two hundred and thirteen houses, and fourteen hundred inhabitants; the rents of it are about 4500l. per annum. The soil of it is various, the hills above mentioned, as well as the vale between in the northern part of it, are mostly chalk; the rest of it a red cludgy earth, much intermixed with slints, a wet unpleasant soil; the meadows near the river are very sertile and rich. The town of Wye, in which the fine tower of the church is a conspicuous object, stands in the vale on the river Stour, which directs its course throught the parish in its way to Canterbury; over it here is a stone bridge of five arches, built in 1630, in the room of the former wooden one, at the charge of the county; the river is plentifully stowed hereabouts with pikes. The town, which stands low and damp, and from that and its soil an unpleasant situation, is a neat well-built town, consisting of two parallel and two cross streets, the whole unpaved. There is a large green in it, built round, on one side of which is the church and college close to it, and on the other a house, which was once the gaol to the manor-court, but long since disused.

 

There is a tradition, that the town once stood in the valley, which lies between Wye-down and Crundal, where the hamlet of Pett-street now is, about which there are still remaining several deep disused wells, and this place is still called Town borough, where as that in which Wye town stands is called Bewbridge-borough. About half a mile westward from the town is a pleasant seat, called Spring-grove, built by Thomas Brett, esq. of this parish, in 1674, who afterwards resided in it.

 

The south part of the parish below the town, is full of small inclosures, and the soil deeper. In it is a hamlet, called Withersden, formerly accounted a manor, in which there is a well, which was once famous, being called St. Eustace's well, taking its name from Eustachius, abbot of Flai, who is mentioned by Matt. Paris, p. 169, an. 1200, to have been a man of learning and sanctity, and to have come and preached at Wye, and to have blessed a fountain there, so that afterwards its waters were endowed, by such miraculous power, that by it all diseases were cured. Hence the parish extends itself further southward by a narrow slip, between Brook and Braborne, to Nacolt-wood, once reputed likewise a manor, and the tile-kiln of that name.

 

Almost one half of the parish now belongs to Mr. Sawbridge, his estate here being greatly increased by his father's late purchase of the estates of Bond Hopkins, esq. which consist of Wye-court, Harvile, Coldharbour, Wye-downs, and Nacolt, in this parish; they formerly, I conjecture, belonged to Wye college, and afterwards to the Kempes; they were bought in chancery by John Hopkins. esq. commonly called from his rapacity, Vulture Hopkins, who died immensely rich in 1732, and devised his estates so as not to be inherited till after the second generation, then unborn; but the court of chancery set the will aside, and gave his estates to his heir-at-law, from whom they descended to the above-mentioned Bond Hopkins, esq. In the northern part of it stands the stately mansion of Ollantigh, close to the river, which is here beautifully formed by art to ornament it. Adjoining are the park-grounds, containing near six hundred acres, which extend almost as far as Wye town; and the eastern part of the ridge of hills called Wye-downs, the chain of which reaches to the sea-shore at Folkestone. On the summit of the hill, at the eastern extremity of this parish, is Fanscomb-beech, a tree visible to all the country round, to a great distance; near it was formerly a cottage, of the same name, now pulled down, and the lands laid into Mr. Sawbridge's park grounds. Also near it is Fannes wood, now a cottage, and belonging to him likewise. Both these were formerly esteemed manors of good account. The manor of Fannes, alias Fanscombe, formerly belonged to the master of the Savoy, now to St. Thomas's hospital, in Southwark, and that of Fannes wood, formerly the property of the Kempes, to Mr. Sawbridge.

 

The high road from Canterbury to Ashford leads along this parish, about half a mile distance westward from Ollantigh, on higher ground from whence there is a fine view over the vale beneath and the opposite downs, including the mansion and grounds of Ollantigh, and the town and church of Wye, which it leaves in its course at the same distance.

 

It is by some supposed that the Romans had a highway through this parish, which went on towards Lenham, and so to Aylesford; and the several remains of that nation dug up on Tremworth-down, in the adjoining parish of Crundal, on the side of it next to this parish, will serve to strengthen this conjecture. Wye had formerly a market on a Thursday, granted to the abbot of Battell, which was held in the time of king Henry VIII. It was held in Leland's time, who calls it a pratie market townelet; but it has been for some time disused. The two fairs formerly held here on St. Gregories day, March 23, and on All Souls day, Nov. 2, are now held on May 29 and Sept. 3, yearly, for Welch cattle, stock, &c.

 

There were formerly several families of good account resident in this town and parish, the Finch's, lived at Wye-court, descended from those of Sewards, in Linsted, a younger branch of the Finch's, of Eastwell; the Swans, removed hither from Lyd. Francis Swan, esq. resided here, his house being in the town of Wye, at the latter end of Henry VIII.'s reign. They bore for their arms, Azure, a chevron, ermine, between three swans, proper; the Twisdens, one of whom, Roger Twisden, gent. was of Wye, had a lease of the scite of the manor of Wye, and other premises here, from the abbot of Battel, anno 25 Henry VIII. and the Haules, who were antiently written De Aula five Haule, in Latin deeds, likewise resided here for several generations, till they removed to Maidstone in king James the 1st.'s reign, where George Haule, esq. of Maidstone, died in 1652. Elizabeth his daughter, and at length sole heir, married Sir Thomas Taylor, bart. of that parish. They bore for their arms, Or, on a saltier, five mulets of the field.

 

In this parish Major George Somner, brother to the antiquary, was killed in an engagement with the rebels, in 1648.

 

ON THE PLACE where the famous and decisive battle between king Harold and William, duke of Normandy, was fought in 1066, the Conqueror in the next year began to build a noble abbey, named from that event, Battell abbev; in Latin records, Abbatia de Bello; the royal founder endowing it with exemptions and privileges of a very extraordinary nature, and with many manors and good estates; among which was this Royal manor of Wye, with all its appendages, being of the demesnes of his crown, as the grant expresses it, with all liberties and royal customs, as well here as in Dengemarsh, which belonged to the court of Wye, (fn. 1) as freely as he himself held it, or as a king could grant it. Accordingly it is thus entered in the record of Domesday, under the title of land of the church of Battell, or De Labatailge, as there spelt.

 

¶The abbot of St. Martin, of the place of Battle, holds the manor which is called Wi, which in the time of king Edward the Confessor, and now, was and is taxed at seven sulings. The arable land is fifty-two carucates. In demesne there are nine carucates, and one hundred and fourteen villeins, with twenty-two borderers, having seventeen carucates. There is a church, and seven servants, and four mills of twenty-three shillings and eight pence, and one hundred and thirty three acres of meadow, and wood for the pannage of three hundred bogs. In the time of king Edward the Confessor it was worth no more than twenty pounds and one hundred shillings, and six shillings and eight pence; when be received it, one hundred and twenty-five pounds, and ten shilling of the twenty in ore; (fn. 2) now one hundred pounds by tale; and if the abbot bad had sac and soc, it would have been worth twenty pounds more.

 

Ralf de Curbespina holds one denne and one yoke of the land, of the sockmen of this manor, and pays by custom six pence. Adelulf two parts of one suling, and pays twelve pence; and Hugo de Montfort has two yoke, and pays three hundred eels and two shillings; and in the time of king Edward the Confessor, they paid both sac and soc.

 

Of the twenty-two hundreds, there belonged to this manor, sac and soc, and all forfeitures, which of right belonged to the king.

 

For such was the dignity of this manor, which then consisted of seven sulings, or hides of land, that, as the antient book of this abbey expressed it, with its own hundred, it had jurisdiction over twenty-two hundreds and an half, which belonged to its court.

 

WYE is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Bridge.

 

The church, which is dedicated to St. Gregory and St. Martin, stands at the north-west corner of the town of Wye, and was built by cardinal Kempe, when he founded the college of Wye in the reign of king Henry VI. being a handsome, large building, with three isles and as many chancels, and a high spire steeple in the middle, which stood on four lofty arches, supported by a like number of large pillars. The great chancel was made choir fashion, wainscotted, and seated round for the members of the new col lege. The north chancel was appointed for the burying-place of the Kempes, owners of Ollantigh; and in the south chancel the parishioners of the better sort were interred. According to tradition, it stood antiently on a little hill just at the entrance into the town from the river, and which is now called Boltshill, but was removed to this place, where it now stands, by the cardinal. In 1572, the steeple was burnt by lightning, and though it was soon afterwards rebuilt, under the care of Gregory Brett, then churchwarden, who was a great contributor to the expence of it; for which the parishioners granted to him and his heirs, a vault, in the middle isle, for their burial; yet in 1685 it fell, and beat down the greatest part of the middle chancel, almost all the two side ones, and the east end of the body of the church, by which all the monuments in the north chancel, of the Kempes, and Thornhills, of Ollantigh, were wholly destroyed, and the tombstone which lay over the cardinal's father and mother, broken to pieces, whose epitaph is preserved by Weever, p. 274. The fragments of several of the old tombstones lay for several years afterwards seattered about the church-yard, and some statues and parts of monuments lay at the lower end of the church; but they have since been removed and there are now none remaining. After this, the remaining part was inclosed with boards, at the east end, to make it fit for divine service, and the rest lay in ruins till the year 1701, when a brief was procured for the rebuilding of it, and within a year or two afterwards it was begun, the remainder of the old chancels was taken down, and only the present small chancel built up at the east end, in the room of that where the choir was, and a tower steeple on the south side, between the chancel and the body of the church, with battlements, and four pinnacles with gilt vanes on them. The present building is small, but neat. It consists, of three isles, the middle one having an upper story and range of windows. There is only one small chancel, new built, circular at the east end, which does not reach near so far as the old one, which extended several feet further, Mr. Chamberlain Godfrey's monument, in the church yard standing, as is said, where the altar formerly did. Towards building the steeple and chancel, the lady Joanna Thornhill, the prebendaries of Canterbury, and others, were contributors, and Richard Thornhill, esq. gave the pavement of the chancel. In the steeple are eight bells and a clock, which were completed in 1774. The only memorials of any time remaining, are three in the body of the church, viz. two for the Bretts, and one having the figures, in brass, of a woman between her two husbands, and underneath of several children, and at bottom an inscription, beginning John Andrew Justus, Thomas Palmer q; venustus, &c. In the chancel is a memorial for Mrs. Catherine Matchem, daughter of George Finch, gent. of this parish, obt. 1713; a monument over a vault, in which lie Agnes and Mary Johnton; the former died in 1763, the latter in 1767, they were descended from Sir Robert Moyle, of Buckwell; and a monument for lady Joanna Thornhill, daughter of Sir Bevill Granville, second wife of Richard Thornhill, esq. of Ollantigh, commander of a regiment of horse raised at his own charge, obt. 1708.

 

This church, appurtenant to the manor of Wye, was given, with it, to the abbey of Battel at its foundation by the Conqueror, and was appropriated to it before the year 1384, being the 8th year of king Richard II. In which state it continued till the reign of king Henry VI. when cardinal Kempe obtained the king's licence to purchase the advowson of the vicarage of the abbot of Battel, and settled it on his newfounded college here, as will be further mentioned hereafter; but the rectory appropriate of Wye remained part of the possessions of the abbey till its dissolution in the 30th year of king Henry VIII. when it came into the king's hands, where this rectory staid till king Edward VI. in his 5th year, granted it and the manor of the vicarage, together with the two tithebarns and the tithes themselves, all parcel of the late monastery of Battel, to Edward, lord Clinton and Saye, who reconveyed them back again to the king, within a month afterwards.

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-kent/vol7/pp340-368

I used to pass through Hales every time I drove to see Norwich play, from 1984 onwards. There is a backroad way to Haddiscoe then over the marshes to St Olaves and finally via Herringfleet and Somerleyton to Oulton and home.

 

Hales used to have a hospital, used I think for recuperation. Long since closed now and turned into housing, of course.

 

I used to drive through either full of anticipation of the afternoon's entertainment ahead, or go back home either so happy after seeing them win, or in despondency if we had lost. First time I drove to Carrow Road was in the spring of 1984 was to see City play Watford. City won 6-1, and John Deehan scored four. Not all afternoons were like that.

 

I can't remember the last time I drove to Norwich along the 146, to be honest. I know turning right towards Norwich used to be difficult at times, even more so now.

 

A few years back, I went looking for the church in Hales, and seeing signs pointing to another church ended up in Heckingham.

 

St Margaret is just off the main road, up a quiet lane, and yet the local louts find it in their hearts to come here to smash the windows in the chancel. I can't understand it, and after the visit here I was filled with a mix of anger and sadness. In Kent, Elmstone is a remote church, and yet the local youth there find time to smash the windows there too.

 

Inside St Margaret there are a fine selection of wall paintings and Norman arches and fittings, topped off with a thatched roof too.

 

I tried to get a good shot from distance, but the small churchyard made this difficult, hence the leaning tower in one of the shots.

 

------------------------------------------

 

Comparing Suffolk and Norfolk, as I inevitably must, I am afraid that the southern county rarely comes off best, and descriptions of Norfolk churches lend themselves to superlatives. Take Norman remains, for example - Suffolk has some, if you look for them. It has some nice doorways, at Sapiston and Westhall for example, and a Victorian rebuilding of what may or may not have been a Norman apse at Wissington. But Norfolk has more than seventy fine Norman doorways, and the best are all within a few miles of each other to the east and south-east of Norwich. Best of all are Wroxham and Heckingham, but the most complete Norman church in the county, indeed in all East Anglia, is here at Hales, two miles south of Heckingham, and like that church in the care of the Churches Conservation Trust.

St Margaret is extraordinary because so much of its original Norman fabric survives. Indeed, apart from some 13th century windows punched into the apse (a rare example of transitional vandalism!) you wouldn't know anything had happened here since the 1100s. The blank arcading on the apse is superb, and once went all the way around it. Most famous of all, the north doorway, its six orders so similar to the five at Heckingham that they must be by the same mason.

 

I had read several accounts of visits to this church, but all appeared to have been made in summer. Today, in deepest winter, I found it a stark, rather bleak place, overwhelmed by the noise from the nearby Norwich to Beccles road. Perhaps summer foliage absorbs the sound. Some churches, of course, are at their best in the bleak mid-winter, nearby Heckingham for example. But I longed for summer sunshine on those honeyed walls. A good excuse to go back in the summer.

 

Inside, the air was that of the previous day's sub-zero temperatures - it caught your breath as you went in. The interior has the prescribed simplicity of all CCT churches, a neatness and cleanness that is to be admired and imitated. Ahead is the great St Christopher, which is very faded, but the heads of the two figures are very characterful. The figure in the splay of a south wall window is probably St James with his staff. High above, two angels blowing trumpets are tucked into the eaves above where the rood loft once was.

 

There is a good view of the interior from the gallery, and you can also go into the base of the tower itself. The splays of the round windows still have the impress of the basketwork of 900 years ago - an astounding thought. Also ancient is the wooden shelf inside the aumbry on the north chancel wall.

 

The font is relatively modern, only 500 years old! The snooty little lions reminded me of their cousins at Salthouse, although the smiles here are nowhere near as friendly. There is a famous 17th century font cover associated with it - it has the silhouette of the Rector of the day on its base. It is now in safe keeping at Booton, where I had seen it a few months previously, but had omitted to photograph it. A good excuse to go back there, too.

 

Simon Knott, December 2004

 

www.norfolkchurches.co.uk/hales/hales.htm

 

------------------------------------------

 

HALES, or LODDEN-HALES,

Bigot's Manor.

 

By some accounted to be in Loddon-hundred. There were at the survey several lordships in this town: Roger Bigot, ancestor to the Earls of Nofolk, had a grant of one, which Alestan (a thane of King Harold) was deprived of; to this there belonged one carucate of land, and 40 acres with 9 bordarers, and 2 carucates in demean, one among the tenants, and 5 acres of meadow, paunage for 3 swine, one runcus, one cow, &c. and 10 sheep. There were also 13 freemen belonging to the lord's fold, and under his commendation with 40 acres of land, valued at 20s. but at the survey at 40s. this Alestan put himself under the commendation of Alwin de Tedford, in the reign of King William, and was seised of it at the time when the Conqueror gave it to Roger Bigot. But the hundred never saw any writ or livery, whereby it was granted to Alwin. All Hales was fifteen furlongs long, and 12 perches and six furlongs broad; and pays 8d. gelt. (fn. 1)

 

This lordship extended into Loddon, and was held by the Bigots Earls of Norfolk, and by the grant of Roger Bigot Earl of Norfolk, who died s. p. it came to King Edward I. and was given by King Edward II. to his brother, Thomas de Brotherton Earl of Norfolk, and so came to the Lord Segrave, the Mowbrays, and the Howards Dukes of Norfolk.

 

On the attainder of Thomas Duke of Norfolk, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, it was in the Crown, and King James I. on June 17, ao. 1, bestowed it on Thomas Lord Howard, of Walden, and Henry Howard, afterwards Earl of Northampton, from whom it passed to Thomas Howard Earl of Surry, who in the 21 of the said King, April 1, had license to alien it to Anthony Hobart, Esq. and his heirs; Anthony conveyed it in the same year to James Hobart, his son and heir, who, by deed, dated Sep. 12, ao. 12 of Charles I. sold it to Henry Humberston Esq. son of William Humberston, of Loddon by Joan, his wife, daughter of John Smith, of Lanham in Suffolk, which William was son of John Humberston of Loddon.

 

Henry had 2 wives: by Mary, daughter of Henry Yaxley of Beauthorp, Esq. his 2d wife, he had no issue; by his first wife Anne, daughter of Giles Bladwell, Esq. of Thorlow Magna, in Suffolk, was father of William Humberstone, Esq. who married Mildred, daughter of Charles Walgrave of Stanninghall in Norfolk, Esq. who conveyed this manor to Francis Gardiner, Esq. mayor of Norwich in 1685, (son of Francis Gardiner D. D. vicar of Kendal,) and burgess in parliament for that city, in 1695. Stephen Gardiner, Esq. his son, was recorder of Norwich, and died in 1727. Gardiner, bore, gules a chevron, between three griffins heads erased, or.

 

Ralph Lord Baynard was rewarded with a lordship, of which Toke, a freeman (of Stigand, the Archbishop of Canterbury) of French extraction, was deprived; consisting of 30 acres of land, 3 villains, with a carucate and 3 acres of meadow, &c. and 60 sheep; there were 12 freemen under his protection, and of his fold who held 41 acres of land, with a carucate and a half, and 3 acres of meadow: there were also 2 freemen under his protection only, with 18 acres, of land and half a carucate, also one freeman with 30 acres one, borderer and one carucate, and one acre of meadow; the whole valued at 17s. but at the survey at 30s. (fn. 2)

 

A family who took their name from this town, was early enfeoffed of it, and held it under the Lord Baynard. Roger de Hales and William, his son, were living in the reign of Henry II.—Walter de Hales, in the time of King John; and Sir Roger, son of Walter, in the 34 of Henry III. John, son of Sir Roger, in the 22 of Edward I. which Sir Roger, by deed, sans date, confirmed the exchange of lands (between 2 persons) that were held of his fee in Hales; which shows that it was the custom for lords of manors to confirm the purchases, before the statute of Quia Emplores, &c. and sealed with barry of 12, azure and or, on a canton, gules, a lion passant. Sir John de Hales was living, ao. 20 Edward III. and by Catherine, (after married to Roger de Wellesham,) was father of John de Hales, who died s. p. ao. 43 Edward III. and held this lordship of the barony of Fitz-Walter.

 

In the 17 of Richard II. William, son of Edmund de Redesham of Kirkby Caam, conveyed by fine, to Sir Robert de Willoughby, Sir Miles Stapleton, John, son of Sir John de Norwich, &c. the manor of HalesHall in Loddon, one messuage, 4 carucates of land, 24 acres of meadow, 2 of wood, 20 of marsh, and 100s. rent, in Hales, Loddon, Kirkeby, with the advowson of Hales-Hall chapel, purchased by John de Norwich in reversion; Sir George Felbrigg of Tottington, holding two parts of the manor and lands, in right (as I take it) of the widow of Edmund de Reedisham, then his wife, and Joan, widow of John de Hales, holding a 3d part in dower. (fn. 3)

 

Sir Simon Felbrigg, in the 12th of Henry IV. recovered the manor of Hales-Hall by writ of Novel Disseisin, against John Hotot, and held his first court on Tuesday next after the assumption of the blessed Virgin, and it was after settled on his two feoffees, Sir John Howard, and Sir John de Ingaldesthorp, &c.

 

In the 19th of Henry VI. Nicholas Waleys and John Pewk, were querents in a fine, and Henry Walpole, and Margaret his wife, deforciants of 10l. rent, per ann. in Loddon-Hales manor, conveyed to Pewk; and in the 30th of that King, Hugh Croke, vicar of Hale, was a trustee of Thomas Cleymonds, Esq. deceased, late lord.

 

¶After this, it was possessed by Sir James Hobart, attorney-general, and of the privy council to King Henry VII. of whom, and his ancestors, see in Plumstede Parva, in Blofield hundred. His benefactions and good works, testify his charity and generosity; he resided in his manor-house here, which he built for the most part, (and died here,) with the elegant parish church of the Holy Trinity, at Loddon; also a fair bridge over the Waveney river, between Norfolk and Suffolk, called St. Olaves, or Tooley's bridge, with a good causeway to it; (fn. 4) contributed to the rebuilding of the council chamber in the Guild-Hall of the city of Norwich, and to the noble arched stone roof of the cathedral church of Norwich. Sir Walter Hobart was his son and heir, and lord of this manor; sheriff of Norfolk and Suffolk, ao. 1, Henry VIII. in the 20 of that King, he settled this lordship, with that of Chatgrave, Lille ford's, Tilney in Norfolk, and others in Suffolk, as may be seen in Chatgrave, Loddon hundred, on Walter Hobart, Esq. his son and heir. A pedigree of the eldest branch of the family I have here annexed.

 

James Hobart, Esq. sold it in the 12 of Charles I. to Henry Humberstone, Esq. (as is mentioned in Bigot's manor above,) whose son William, is said to have conveyed part of it to Francis Gardiner, Esq. and part to the Lady Dionysia Williamson, relict of Sir Thomas Williamson, Baronet, of Markham Magna in Nottinghamshire, daughter and heir of William Hales, Esq. son of Richard Hales, Esq. who was lady of this manor of Hales-Hall, in 1666, and resided here; she gave 4000l. to the rebuilding the church of St. Dunstan in the East, of London; to the rebuilding of St. Paul's cathedral, 2001l. and was a benefactress to the rebuilding of the church of St. Mary Le Bow, in London, giving 2000l. and at her death, left Hales-Hall to John Hoskins, Esq. her nephew, (who was lord in 1687,) with the impropriated rectory of Loddon.

 

The abbot of St. Edmund of Bury, had a lordship which Frodo held of them at the survey; 9 men, 2 of them were socmen, and 7 more, belonged to the abbot's lordship, and were under his protection only, held 64 acres in King Edward's reign, when there were 2 borderers and 5 freemen, with 6 acres; this was valued with Loddon. (fn. 5)

 

Frodo, also, held of the abbot one acre, of which 2 freemen were deprived; valued at 4d. (fn. 6) Of this Frodo, &c. see in Loddon, which manor extended also into this town.

 

Godric, the King's steward, held one acre and a half, out of which a freeman was ejected: this was granted to Godric on the forfeiture of Ralph Earl of Norfolk, who had a moiety (as lord) of this freeman. (fn. 7)

 

The tenths were 2l. 10s. Deducted 10s. Temporalities of St. Olaves 8d. and of Langley abbey 24s.

 

The Church of Hales was a rectory, but granted in the 4th of Henry I. by Ralph de Chedgrave, and Emma his wife, to William, prior of St. Olaves, probably founder of that priory; and a vicar was appointed on its appropriation to that convent. It was dedicated to St. Margaret, and it appears by the register of Langley abbey, that the prior and convent of St. Olaves at Hering flete in Suffolk were rectors of Hale, and had the tithe of 235 acres of land in Hale parish belonging to Langley abbey, in exchange for 235 acres of land in Loddon and Heckingham, belonging to the priory of St. Olaves. (fn. 8)

 

In the reign of Edward I. the rectory was valued at 11 marks, and the vicarage at 40s. The vicar had then a manse with 30 acres of land. Peter-pence 18d. Carvage 12d. 0b.

 

Vicars.

 

In 1317, Adam de Blofield was instituted vicar, presented by the prior of St. Olaves, and nominated by the Bishop of Norwich.

 

1326, John de Carlethorp. Ditto.

 

1333, Roger de Petengraunt. Ditto.

 

1337, Adam de Bergh. Ditto.

 

1349, John Le Neve. Ditto.

 

1366, William Warren. Ditto.

 

1366, John Stalworth. Ditto.

 

1377, Peter de Wynch. Ditto.

 

1382, Roger Calf. Ditto.

 

1382, John Wandeford. Ditto.

 

1391, Simon Bangot. Ditto.

 

1391, John Bradock. Ditto.

 

1395, John Smith. Ditto.

 

1397, Henry Welden. Ditto.

 

1397, Thomas Coyte. Ditto.

 

1398, Richard Bytering. Ditto.

 

1403, Richard Bangoot. Ditto.

 

1403, John Ousnell Ditto.

 

1404, Walter Jakes. Ditto.

 

1413, William Norwich. Ditto.

 

1417, Thomas Smith. Ditto.

 

In 1458, Hugh Croke occurs vicar.

 

In 1503, I find it served by a stipendiary curate, for 5l. per ann. and he then returned 45 communicants, John Hill being the impropriator; and in 1742, the heirs of Mr. Peter Lawes.

 

¶Here was also a chapel at Hales-Hall, belonging to the manor of the family of De Hales, dedicated to St. Andrew: this, with the hall, stood in the parish of Loddon, and in 1287, it is said to stand in the manor of Wrantishagh, belonging to Sir Roger de Hales, in Loddon parish, and leave was then granted to him, that he might institute the chaplains of it, by the concession and grant of the abbot of Langley, rectors of the church of Loddon, and of John de Feryby, official to William, Bishop of Norwich, the said Sir Roger and his heirs granting to the chaplains all the obventions and oblations, with the small tithes of his court, and that the servant, of him and his heirs having their habitations in the parish of Loddon, shall pay to the mother church of Loddon, the oblations accustomed, and shall receive the sacraments there. (fn. 9) And the chaplains administering in the said chapel, were to pay yearly to the said mother church, in acknowledgment of subjection, all the oblations and obventions given on Easter-day, and St. Andrew's day, and two wax candles of a pound of wax, on Trinity Sunday, and to give security to the vicars of Loddon, for the time being, that they should not say any anniversaries, trentals, or any masses for any parishioners of Loddon.

 

In 1331, Sir John de Hales was patron, and in 1349; and John, son and heir of Sir John, in 1361.

 

Alexander de Hales, styled Doctor Irrefragabilis, who died in 1245, was born here. Hales, Halesworth, Halestead, Alesham and Aylesford, so called, as near to some river or water.

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/topographical-hist-norfolk/vol8...

U.S. Marshals hold a live auction in Sparta, Tennessee, Saturday, Aug. 26, 2017, to sell tractors, trucks, trailers, farm equipment and tools in the liquidation of Gentry Tractor Supply. The sale follows the guilty plea of Jeffery Gentry on Aug. 10 in a $43 million investment scheme in U.S. District Court in Nashville.

 

Photo by Deputy U.S. Marshal Danny Shelton / U.S. Marshals

I am currently trying to revisit all the churches photographed in the first few years of the Kent Churches Project, which means seeing some great and humble buildings, and sometimes surprise that some did not make more of an impact on me first time time round.

 

Why sits in the shadow of the downs, Wye down being nearest, of course, and also beside the Stour. The chuch sits beside the old main road and beside the old college, with the village spread to its south side.

 

All I remembered from my first time was the glass outer porch door, but my overwhelming feeling this time was of space and light in the mighty high nave.

 

-------------------------------------------

 

A very strange church, the result of the collapse of a tall central tower in 1686. The nave of the medieval church survives almost intact, while the chancel has been constructed from the remains of the central crossing of the thirteenth-century church, and a new tower built. The nave is tall and light, and contrasts well with the short narrow apsed chancel that now contains mural tablets to the Sawbridge and Drax families who lived at Olantigh. The reredos is plain early eighteenth-century work and ties in nicely with the dark oak panelling. The choir stalls which stand in the nave were a thanksgiving memorial for the life of President Kennedy. The west window, which represents Christ in Majesty, is set into plain glass and was designed by Gerald Smith in the 1950s. It is an object lesson in how good glass of this period could be.

 

www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Wye

 

------------------------------------------

 

WYE

LIES the next parish eastward from Challock. It is spelt in Domesday, and other antient records, Wy.

 

¶THE PARISH lies in a healthy country, great part of it being in the fertile Ashford vale; the fine pasture down hills of Wye and Braborne bound the eastern side of it, as does another range of hills on the opposite side, the tops of which are skirted by the large extent of woodland, called King's and Challock woods, over which, for near two miles, this parish reaches westward almost to the church and village of Molash. It contains about two hundred and thirteen houses, and fourteen hundred inhabitants; the rents of it are about 4500l. per annum. The soil of it is various, the hills above mentioned, as well as the vale between in the northern part of it, are mostly chalk; the rest of it a red cludgy earth, much intermixed with slints, a wet unpleasant soil; the meadows near the river are very sertile and rich. The town of Wye, in which the fine tower of the church is a conspicuous object, stands in the vale on the river Stour, which directs its course throught the parish in its way to Canterbury; over it here is a stone bridge of five arches, built in 1630, in the room of the former wooden one, at the charge of the county; the river is plentifully stowed hereabouts with pikes. The town, which stands low and damp, and from that and its soil an unpleasant situation, is a neat well-built town, consisting of two parallel and two cross streets, the whole unpaved. There is a large green in it, built round, on one side of which is the church and college close to it, and on the other a house, which was once the gaol to the manor-court, but long since disused.

 

There is a tradition, that the town once stood in the valley, which lies between Wye-down and Crundal, where the hamlet of Pett-street now is, about which there are still remaining several deep disused wells, and this place is still called Town borough, where as that in which Wye town stands is called Bewbridge-borough. About half a mile westward from the town is a pleasant seat, called Spring-grove, built by Thomas Brett, esq. of this parish, in 1674, who afterwards resided in it.

 

The south part of the parish below the town, is full of small inclosures, and the soil deeper. In it is a hamlet, called Withersden, formerly accounted a manor, in which there is a well, which was once famous, being called St. Eustace's well, taking its name from Eustachius, abbot of Flai, who is mentioned by Matt. Paris, p. 169, an. 1200, to have been a man of learning and sanctity, and to have come and preached at Wye, and to have blessed a fountain there, so that afterwards its waters were endowed, by such miraculous power, that by it all diseases were cured. Hence the parish extends itself further southward by a narrow slip, between Brook and Braborne, to Nacolt-wood, once reputed likewise a manor, and the tile-kiln of that name.

 

Almost one half of the parish now belongs to Mr. Sawbridge, his estate here being greatly increased by his father's late purchase of the estates of Bond Hopkins, esq. which consist of Wye-court, Harvile, Coldharbour, Wye-downs, and Nacolt, in this parish; they formerly, I conjecture, belonged to Wye college, and afterwards to the Kempes; they were bought in chancery by John Hopkins. esq. commonly called from his rapacity, Vulture Hopkins, who died immensely rich in 1732, and devised his estates so as not to be inherited till after the second generation, then unborn; but the court of chancery set the will aside, and gave his estates to his heir-at-law, from whom they descended to the above-mentioned Bond Hopkins, esq. In the northern part of it stands the stately mansion of Ollantigh, close to the river, which is here beautifully formed by art to ornament it. Adjoining are the park-grounds, containing near six hundred acres, which extend almost as far as Wye town; and the eastern part of the ridge of hills called Wye-downs, the chain of which reaches to the sea-shore at Folkestone. On the summit of the hill, at the eastern extremity of this parish, is Fanscomb-beech, a tree visible to all the country round, to a great distance; near it was formerly a cottage, of the same name, now pulled down, and the lands laid into Mr. Sawbridge's park grounds. Also near it is Fannes wood, now a cottage, and belonging to him likewise. Both these were formerly esteemed manors of good account. The manor of Fannes, alias Fanscombe, formerly belonged to the master of the Savoy, now to St. Thomas's hospital, in Southwark, and that of Fannes wood, formerly the property of the Kempes, to Mr. Sawbridge.

 

The high road from Canterbury to Ashford leads along this parish, about half a mile distance westward from Ollantigh, on higher ground from whence there is a fine view over the vale beneath and the opposite downs, including the mansion and grounds of Ollantigh, and the town and church of Wye, which it leaves in its course at the same distance.

 

It is by some supposed that the Romans had a highway through this parish, which went on towards Lenham, and so to Aylesford; and the several remains of that nation dug up on Tremworth-down, in the adjoining parish of Crundal, on the side of it next to this parish, will serve to strengthen this conjecture. Wye had formerly a market on a Thursday, granted to the abbot of Battell, which was held in the time of king Henry VIII. It was held in Leland's time, who calls it a pratie market townelet; but it has been for some time disused. The two fairs formerly held here on St. Gregories day, March 23, and on All Souls day, Nov. 2, are now held on May 29 and Sept. 3, yearly, for Welch cattle, stock, &c.

 

There were formerly several families of good account resident in this town and parish, the Finch's, lived at Wye-court, descended from those of Sewards, in Linsted, a younger branch of the Finch's, of Eastwell; the Swans, removed hither from Lyd. Francis Swan, esq. resided here, his house being in the town of Wye, at the latter end of Henry VIII.'s reign. They bore for their arms, Azure, a chevron, ermine, between three swans, proper; the Twisdens, one of whom, Roger Twisden, gent. was of Wye, had a lease of the scite of the manor of Wye, and other premises here, from the abbot of Battel, anno 25 Henry VIII. and the Haules, who were antiently written De Aula five Haule, in Latin deeds, likewise resided here for several generations, till they removed to Maidstone in king James the 1st.'s reign, where George Haule, esq. of Maidstone, died in 1652. Elizabeth his daughter, and at length sole heir, married Sir Thomas Taylor, bart. of that parish. They bore for their arms, Or, on a saltier, five mulets of the field.

 

In this parish Major George Somner, brother to the antiquary, was killed in an engagement with the rebels, in 1648.

 

ON THE PLACE where the famous and decisive battle between king Harold and William, duke of Normandy, was fought in 1066, the Conqueror in the next year began to build a noble abbey, named from that event, Battell abbev; in Latin records, Abbatia de Bello; the royal founder endowing it with exemptions and privileges of a very extraordinary nature, and with many manors and good estates; among which was this Royal manor of Wye, with all its appendages, being of the demesnes of his crown, as the grant expresses it, with all liberties and royal customs, as well here as in Dengemarsh, which belonged to the court of Wye, (fn. 1) as freely as he himself held it, or as a king could grant it. Accordingly it is thus entered in the record of Domesday, under the title of land of the church of Battell, or De Labatailge, as there spelt.

 

¶The abbot of St. Martin, of the place of Battle, holds the manor which is called Wi, which in the time of king Edward the Confessor, and now, was and is taxed at seven sulings. The arable land is fifty-two carucates. In demesne there are nine carucates, and one hundred and fourteen villeins, with twenty-two borderers, having seventeen carucates. There is a church, and seven servants, and four mills of twenty-three shillings and eight pence, and one hundred and thirty three acres of meadow, and wood for the pannage of three hundred bogs. In the time of king Edward the Confessor it was worth no more than twenty pounds and one hundred shillings, and six shillings and eight pence; when be received it, one hundred and twenty-five pounds, and ten shilling of the twenty in ore; (fn. 2) now one hundred pounds by tale; and if the abbot bad had sac and soc, it would have been worth twenty pounds more.

 

Ralf de Curbespina holds one denne and one yoke of the land, of the sockmen of this manor, and pays by custom six pence. Adelulf two parts of one suling, and pays twelve pence; and Hugo de Montfort has two yoke, and pays three hundred eels and two shillings; and in the time of king Edward the Confessor, they paid both sac and soc.

 

Of the twenty-two hundreds, there belonged to this manor, sac and soc, and all forfeitures, which of right belonged to the king.

 

For such was the dignity of this manor, which then consisted of seven sulings, or hides of land, that, as the antient book of this abbey expressed it, with its own hundred, it had jurisdiction over twenty-two hundreds and an half, which belonged to its court.

 

WYE is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Bridge.

 

The church, which is dedicated to St. Gregory and St. Martin, stands at the north-west corner of the town of Wye, and was built by cardinal Kempe, when he founded the college of Wye in the reign of king Henry VI. being a handsome, large building, with three isles and as many chancels, and a high spire steeple in the middle, which stood on four lofty arches, supported by a like number of large pillars. The great chancel was made choir fashion, wainscotted, and seated round for the members of the new col lege. The north chancel was appointed for the burying-place of the Kempes, owners of Ollantigh; and in the south chancel the parishioners of the better sort were interred. According to tradition, it stood antiently on a little hill just at the entrance into the town from the river, and which is now called Boltshill, but was removed to this place, where it now stands, by the cardinal. In 1572, the steeple was burnt by lightning, and though it was soon afterwards rebuilt, under the care of Gregory Brett, then churchwarden, who was a great contributor to the expence of it; for which the parishioners granted to him and his heirs, a vault, in the middle isle, for their burial; yet in 1685 it fell, and beat down the greatest part of the middle chancel, almost all the two side ones, and the east end of the body of the church, by which all the monuments in the north chancel, of the Kempes, and Thornhills, of Ollantigh, were wholly destroyed, and the tombstone which lay over the cardinal's father and mother, broken to pieces, whose epitaph is preserved by Weever, p. 274. The fragments of several of the old tombstones lay for several years afterwards seattered about the church-yard, and some statues and parts of monuments lay at the lower end of the church; but they have since been removed and there are now none remaining. After this, the remaining part was inclosed with boards, at the east end, to make it fit for divine service, and the rest lay in ruins till the year 1701, when a brief was procured for the rebuilding of it, and within a year or two afterwards it was begun, the remainder of the old chancels was taken down, and only the present small chancel built up at the east end, in the room of that where the choir was, and a tower steeple on the south side, between the chancel and the body of the church, with battlements, and four pinnacles with gilt vanes on them. The present building is small, but neat. It consists, of three isles, the middle one having an upper story and range of windows. There is only one small chancel, new built, circular at the east end, which does not reach near so far as the old one, which extended several feet further, Mr. Chamberlain Godfrey's monument, in the church yard standing, as is said, where the altar formerly did. Towards building the steeple and chancel, the lady Joanna Thornhill, the prebendaries of Canterbury, and others, were contributors, and Richard Thornhill, esq. gave the pavement of the chancel. In the steeple are eight bells and a clock, which were completed in 1774. The only memorials of any time remaining, are three in the body of the church, viz. two for the Bretts, and one having the figures, in brass, of a woman between her two husbands, and underneath of several children, and at bottom an inscription, beginning John Andrew Justus, Thomas Palmer q; venustus, &c. In the chancel is a memorial for Mrs. Catherine Matchem, daughter of George Finch, gent. of this parish, obt. 1713; a monument over a vault, in which lie Agnes and Mary Johnton; the former died in 1763, the latter in 1767, they were descended from Sir Robert Moyle, of Buckwell; and a monument for lady Joanna Thornhill, daughter of Sir Bevill Granville, second wife of Richard Thornhill, esq. of Ollantigh, commander of a regiment of horse raised at his own charge, obt. 1708.

 

This church, appurtenant to the manor of Wye, was given, with it, to the abbey of Battel at its foundation by the Conqueror, and was appropriated to it before the year 1384, being the 8th year of king Richard II. In which state it continued till the reign of king Henry VI. when cardinal Kempe obtained the king's licence to purchase the advowson of the vicarage of the abbot of Battel, and settled it on his newfounded college here, as will be further mentioned hereafter; but the rectory appropriate of Wye remained part of the possessions of the abbey till its dissolution in the 30th year of king Henry VIII. when it came into the king's hands, where this rectory staid till king Edward VI. in his 5th year, granted it and the manor of the vicarage, together with the two tithebarns and the tithes themselves, all parcel of the late monastery of Battel, to Edward, lord Clinton and Saye, who reconveyed them back again to the king, within a month afterwards.

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-kent/vol7/pp340-368

Finally I got to see inside St James. It is one of the furthest church from Chez Jelltex, so assurance from the Heritage weekend that it would be open. So with a sigh I set off on the hour long drive.

 

And as you can see, it was open, and was greeted warmly, as I usually am at manned churches, especially on Heritage Day. Proud people are of their churches, the parish and history.

 

St James is as far along the Hundred of Hoo to be nearly in the sea.

 

---------------------------------------------------

 

A small and remote church at the end of the Hoo Peninsula. The usual two-cell Norman church was extended and partially rebuilt in the late twelfth century by the addition of north and south aisles, the introduction of reredos niches for the nave altars and new windows in the chancel. The aisles were demolished in the early nineteenth century, but their blocked arcades are still clearly visible. The reredos niches are both painted with thirteenth-century five-petalled flowers, whilst the southern one also shows the figure of a bearded bishop. There are the remains of two Norman windows in the nave, and a group of thirteenth-century coffin lids. Despite its medieval size the church did not possess a tower until the present one was built in 1905. It tries very hard, and is built in the right architectural style, but the fact that it is shorter than the nave means that it is a rather poor relation to others in the area. Over the south door is an unusual piece of carved stone representing a Sheila-na-gig, or pagan goddess of reproduction, displaying rather more than a lady should!

 

www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Grain

 

------------------------------------------------

 

THE island of Graine, though on the opposite side of the river Medway, and at some miles distance from the rest of this hundred, yet being within the manor of Gillingham, has always been esteemed as a part of it.

 

It is written in the Textus Roffensis, and other antient manuscripts, Grean, Gryen, and Gren, and lies next to the hundred of Hoo, from which it is separated by a small stream; the south and east sides of it adjoin to the river Medway, the latter of them being opposite to Sheerness; the north side of it joins to the Thames, forming that land where those two rivers meet. It is in size about three miles and a half long, and two miles and a half wide, and contains only one parish, called St. James.

 

The water, which separates it from the hundred of Hoo, is called the Stray; the northern mouth of which, next the Thames, is called the North Yenlet, as that next the Medway is called Colemouth, though the whole of it formerly went by the name of Yenlet, or Yenlade, and in very antient times was no doubt, as well as that of the same name between the isle of Thanet and the main land, of much larger size than it has been for a long time past; for even in the time of king Henry VIII. this island appears only to have been encompassed at flood. (fn. 1) This water of Yenlet seems once to have been the usual passage for all vessels from and to London, which thereby avoided the more exposed and longer navigation round the outside of this island, as they did likewise that round the isle of Shepey, by going through the Swale between that and the main land, both which waters are mentioned in several old writings as part of the river Thames. So late as the reign of king Edward III. this seems to have been the most accustomed passage, for in the 11th year of, the strict ward and watch being set, according to old custom, along the sea coast of this county, one of them appears to have been set at La Yenlade in Hoo, and to have consisted of twelve men at arms and six hobelers; which latter were a kind of light horse, who rode about from place to place in the night, to gain intelligence of the landing of boats, men, &c. and were probably so called from the hobbies, or small horses, on which they rode.

 

The island of Graine is in shape nearly an oblong square; it lies very flat and low; the greatest part of it consists of pasture and marshes, the vast tracts of the latter, in the neighbourhood of it, and the badness of the water, makes it as unwholesome as it is unpleasant; so that the inhabitants mostly consist of a few lookers or bailiffs, and of those who work at the salt works, and such like, who have not wherewithal to seek a residence elsewhere. The entrance into this island, from the hundred of Hoo, is on the south side of it, over a causeway across Stoke marshes. The church of St. James, the only one in it, is situated at the northern part of the island, about a quarter of a mile from the shore. There is no village, the few houses stand dispersed, the farthest not more than a mile's distance southward from the church. There are two sets of saltworks, or saltpans as they are called, the one situated close to the water, at the southern boundary of the island, the other on Mr. Davenport's estate of Wall-end, on the eastern boundary of the island close to the Medway. In short, I cannot give a better description of it than in Mr. Johnson's words, in his little book of Kentish plants, intitled, Iter Plantarum Investigationis ergo susceptum, where he gives an account of his journey, July 13, 1629, in search of simples to this island. He says, "Having left our small boat we walked five or six miles, seeing nothing which could afford us any pleasure; upon the walls we were tormented, for it was in the middle of the day, on account of the heat, with an intolerable thirst, Tantalus like, in the midst of waters (for they were salt); nor were we less oppressed with hunger in this barbarous country, where there was not a village near, nor the smoke of a chimney in sight, nor the barking of a dog within hearing, those usual signs of inhabitants, to raise our languid minds to any kind of hope."

 

The commission of sewers, which extends from Gravesend to Sheerness, and up the river Medway to Penshurst, takes charge of the sea walls round this island, excepting those adjoining to Mr. Davenport's estate, which are repaired at no small expence by the proprietor; they are divided into two levels, called the South-west and North-west levels.

 

THE MANOR of Graine was antiently part of the possessions of the archbishopric of Canterbury, where it remained till the reign of king Henry VIII. in the 37th year of which archbishop Cranmer, conveyed all his estates in this parish, together with his right to wreck of the sea to that king. (fn. 2)

 

King Edward VI. in the 5th year of his reign, granted this manor of Graine to his beloved and faithful counsellor, Sir George Broke, lord Cobham, late belonging to the archbishop, to hold in capite, by knights service, his grandson, Henry lord Cobham, being convicted of high treason in the 1st year of king James I. it became forfeited to the crown, and was confirmed to it by an act passed in the 3d year of that reign, (fn. 3) from which time it seems to have remained in the crown till the death of king Charles I. when it appears to have been esteemed as part of the manor of Gillingham, the quit rents of which in this island then amounted to 24l. 10s. 10¼. from the freeholders in free socage tenure; since the Restoration it has been granted as an appendage to that manor, in which state it continues at present, being as such now possessed by Multon Lambard, esq. of Sevenoke.

 

THERE is another manor here, called the MANOR of GRAINE, alias ROSE-COURT, which in the reign of king Edward III. was the estate of the family of Cobham of Cobham, in this county. Sir John de Cobham died possessed of it in that reign, and his son of the same name having together, with Sir Robert Knolys, built the new bridge at Rochester, amortized his two manors of Graine and Tilbury, worth forty marcs yearly above all reprises, to the support of it for ever, (fn. 4) and it continues at this time part of the possessions of the wardens and commonalty of that bridge, for the purposes above mentioned.

 

THERE is a good estate in that part of this island next the river Medway, which consists of several farms, lands, and salt works, the principal of which is called, from its situation, WALL-END FARM.

 

This estate has, from the earliest accounts of time, had the same owners as the manor of Malmains in Stoke, in this neighbourhood. In the reign of king Edward III. it was in the possession of the family of Malmains, from whom it passed into the name of Filiot, and thence into that of Carew, of Beddington, in Surry; and from that family, in the reign of Henry V. to Iden; from which name it was alienated at the latter end of king Henry VIII. to John Parke, whose sole daughter and heir, Elizabeth, carried it in marriage to John Roper, esq. of Linsted, in this county, who, in the 14th year of king James I. was created baron of Teynham, in this county. His son, Chris topher Roper, lord Teynham, (fn. 5) succeeded him in his estate here, which he increased by obtaining a grant of lands in this island, formerly belonging to the nunnery of Minster in Shepey, which were given to it by archbishop Corboil; all which continued in his descendants to Henry lord Teynham, who, on his marriage with the lady Anne, daughter and coheir of Thomas Lennard, earl of Sussex, and widow of Rich. Barrett Lennard, esq. of Belhouse, in Essex, afterwards baroness Dacre, settled this estate, after her life therein, on the issue of that marriage. Lady Dacre afterwards married the Hon. Robert Moore, and died possessed of it in 1755; (fn. 6) on which the fee became vested in Trevor Charles Roper and Henry Roper, the infant sons and coheirs in gavelkind of the Hon. Charles Roper, her eldest son by lord Teynham; but by a decree of the court of chancery, for the sale of this estate to satisfy incumbrances, and an act having been obtained for that purpose, in 1765, it was conveyed to the Rev. Fr. H. Foote, of Charlton, in Bishopsbourne, whose eldest son, John Foote, esq. afterwards succeeding to it, passed it away by sale to Mr. Thomas Lovett, who at his decease devised it to his son of the same name, on whose death it descended to his sister, now the wife of Mr. Davenport, of London, who in her right is at this time entitled to it.

 

The priory of Rochester was in very early times possessed of lands in this island. In 1076, archbishop Lanfranc, in the solemn assembly of the whole county, held by the Conqueror's command at Pinenden heath, recovered from Ralph de Curva Spina, or Crookthorne, sixty shillings rent of pasture (fn. 7) in Grean, which had been taken from that church, and which he immediately restored to it. There were several gifts af towards made to the priory of marshes in this island, as may be seen throughout the Textus and Registrum Roffense; and king Henry I. confirmed to it a fishery in Grean, afterwards called the Niwewere, for which they paid the archbishops five shillings yearly; which rent archbishop Ralf released to them for ever; and he likewise, by his charter, prohibited all persons from fishing in the Thames, before the fishery of the monks of Niwewere, under pain of forfeiture to him if they should be found fishing beyond.

 

Archbishop Baldwin, in the 1st year of king Richard I. intending to erect a chapel and other buildings within the manor of Lambeth, which then belonged to the monks of Rochester, granted to them, in lieu of the land there belonging to the manor, on which the chapel was to be built, and the area lying round it, one bercary or sheep-cote in the isle of Gren, with all its appurtenances, in marsh, lands, wreck, and in all other matters belonging to it, to hold to them as the demesnes of the said manor, free from all service and demand; and he made a further addition, by granting to them the services yearly due to him and his successors for those bercaries or sheep-cotes, which the monks held of him in Gren, which their tenants at all times in future should pay and be answerable for to them. These premises in Gren were particularly excepted out of the exchange made between archbishop Hubert and the monks of Rochester, of the manors of Lambeth and Darent, in the 7th year of king Richard I. (fn. 8) In the 21st year of king Edward I. upon a Quo warranto, the prior of Rochester claimed to have wreck of the sea in the above marsh, which was adjoining to it, for that archbishop Baldwin, at the time he possessed it, and the prior and his predecessors from the time of the said exchange, had beyond memory possessed that liberty without interruption; and the same was allowed him by the jury.

 

All these marshes, lands, and rents, with their appurtenances, which had been given to the priory of Rochester, remained part of its possessions at the dissolution of it in the 32d year of king Henry VIII. when they were surrendered into the king's hands; who, by his dotation charter, in the 32d year of his reign settled them, together with other premises here, (fn. 9) late belonging to the dissolved priory of Leeds, on his new erected dean and chapter of Rochester, with whom the inheritance of them now continues.

 

THE ISLAND OF GRAINE is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Rochester, and being one of the archbishop's peculiars, is as such within the deanry of Shoreham. The church, which is dedicated to St. James, consists of three isles and a chancel.

 

In it are the following memorials and inscriptions—In the middle isle, a brass for William Hykks, and Joan his wife; another for Jonathan Hykks and Agnes his wife; he died in 1494. Memorial for the Godfreys. In the chancel, a brass for John Cardys, who made the pavement, obt. 1452. (fn. 10)

 

¶This church antiently belonged to the nunnery at Minster in Shepey, (fn. 11) to which it was appropriated before the reign of king Edward I. It continued part of the possessions of that monastery till the dissolution of it, which happened soon after the act passed, in the 27th year of king Henry VIII. for the suppression of those religious houses which had not 200l. per annum clear income; of which number this was one. The church thus coming into the hands of the crown, king Henry VIII. in his 36th year, granted among other premises the rectory of St. James, in the isle of Graine, with the advowson, to John Fynch, to hold in capite by knight's service. He died possessed of them, together with five hundred acres of arable, pasture, and salt marsh, in this island; all which he held as above mentioned, in the 4th year of Edward VI. His son, Clement Finch, at length became possessed of the whole of this estate, which he, in the eighteenth year of queen Elizabeth, alienated to Wm. Brooke, lord Cobham; whose descendant, Henry Brooke, lord Cobham, being attainted of high treason, in the 1st year of king James I. forfeited this, among the rest of his estates, to the crown, to which they were confirmed by an act passed for that purpose two years afterwards; (fn. 12) soon after which this rectory, with the advowson of the vicarage, was granted to Sir Edward Hales, bart. who died possessed of it in 1654.

 

How this rectory impropriate passed from his descendants I do not find; but Mr. John Page, of Rochester, possessed it for many years, and at his death, not long since, by his last will devised it to his kinsman, the Rev. Edmund Faunce, of Sutton-at-Hone, whose son of the same name is the present proprietor of it. This rectory is held of the crown, by the yearly fee farm rent of 1l. 2s. 10½d.

 

The advowson of the vicarage of this church passed with the rectory, through the same chain of ownership to Sir Edward Hales, bart. who died possessed of both in 1654; soon after which they seem to have had separate owners, and to have continued so till this time, the late proprietor of the advowson being Mr. Walter Nynn, since whose decease without issue, Mrs. Rachel Ray, widow, his sister and heir, is become intitled to it. It is valued in the king's books at 9l. 11s. 8d. per annum, and the yearly tenths at 19s. 2d.

 

In a taxation made in the reign of Edward III. it appears, that the church of Graine was then endowed with ten acres of arable and two of pasture, worth per annum, 4l. 3s. 4d. and of rents of assise to the amount of 48s. per annum. (fn. 13)

 

In the survey, taken after the death of Charles I. in 1650, of the several parsonages, vicarages, &c. in this diocese, it was returned, that there was in this parish a vicarage presentative, worth 50l. per annum, Sir Edward Hales, patron; incumbent, Mr. Edward Sparke; the parsonage an impropriation, worth 50l. per annum, Sir Edward Hales owner thereof. (fn. 14)

 

Dr. Plume, archdeacon of Rochester, who died in 1704, bequeathed five pounds per annum, towards teaching the poor children of this parish to read.

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-kent/vol4/pp250-258

Nearly halfway through the month, and it's the weekend again, and the the good news is that the sore throat I had on Friday went and did not return.

 

Which is nice.

 

Jools's cough, however, which seemed like it was getting better, returned slightly on Friday evening, and would again on Saturday. We had tockets to see Public Service Bradcasting again, this time in Margate, but our hearts were not in it, if I'm honest, and in the end we decided not to go in light of her coughing, but also as I said, we saw them a month back, though this would be a different show.

 

And Norwich were on the tellybox, what could be better than watching that?

 

Anything, as it turned out.

 

But that was for later.

 

We went to Tesco, a little later than usual, as we had slept in rather, then back home for breakfast before the decision on what to do for the day. Jools decided to stay home to bead and read, I would go out.

 

There are three churches near to home that I feel I needed to revisit, St Margaret's itself I should be able to get the key from the village shop at any time, but St Mary in Dover hasn't been open the last few times I have been in town, and Barfrestone was closed most of the year due to vandalism.

 

But Saturday morning there is usually a coffee morning in St Mary, so I went down armed with camera and lenses to take more shots of the details, especially of the windows.

 

There was a small group with the Vicar, talking in one of the chapels, so I made busy getting my shots, just happy that the church was open. I left a fiver with the vicar, and walked back to the car, passing the old guy supping from a tin of cider sitting outside the church hall.

 

-------------------------------------------------

 

In the heart of the town with a prominent twelfth-century tower. From the outside it is obvious that much work was carried out in the nineteenth century. The church has major connections with the Lord Wardens of the Cinque Ports and is much used for ceremonial services. The western bays of the nave with their low semi-circular arches are contemporary with the tower, while the pointed arches to the east are entirely nineteenth century. The scale and choice of stone is entirely wrong, although the carving is very well done. However the east end, with its tall narrow lancet windows, is not so successful. The Royal Arms, of the reign of William and Mary, are of carved and painted wood, with a French motto - Jay Maintendray - instead of the more usual Dieu et Mon Droit. The church was badly damaged in the Second World War, but one of the survivors was the typical Norman font of square Purbeck marble construction. One of the more recent additions to the church is the Herald of Free Enterprise memorial window of 1989 designed by Frederick Cole.

 

www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Dover+1

 

-------------------------------------------

 

THE TOWN AND PORT OF DOVER.

DOVER lies at the eastern extremity of Kent, adjoining to the sea, the great high London road towards France ending at it. It lies adjoining to the parish of Charlton last-described, eastward, in the lath of St. Augustine and eastern division of the county. It is within the liberty of the cinque ports, and the juristion of the corporation of the town and port of Dover.

 

DOVER, written in the Latin Itinerary of Antonine, Dubris. By the Saxons, Dorsa, and Dofris. By later historians, Doveria; and in the book of Domesday, Dovere; took its name most probably from the British words, Dufir, signifying water, or Dusirrha, high and steep, alluding to the cliffs adjoining to it. (fn. 1)

 

It is situated at the extremity of a wide and spacious valley, inclosed on each side by high and steep hills or cliffs, and making allowance for the sea's withdrawing itself from between them, answers well to the description given of it by Julius Cæfar in his Commentaries.

 

In the middle space, between this chain of high cliffs, in a break or opening, lies the town of Dover and its harbour, which latter, before the sea was shut out, so late as the Norman conquest, was situated much more within the land than it is at present, as will be further noticed hereafter.

 

ON THE SUMMIT of one of these cliffs, of sudden and stupendous height, close on the north side of the town and harbour, stands DOVER CASTLE, so famous and renowned in all the histories of former times. It is situated so exceeding high, that it is at most times plainly to be seen from the lowest lands on the coast of France, and as far beyond as the eye can discern. Its size, for it contains within it thirty five acres of ground, six of which are taken up by the antient buildings, gives it the appearance of a small city, having its citadel conspicuous in the midst of it, with extensive fortifications, around its walls. The hill, or rather rock, on which it stands, is ragged and steep towards the town and harbour; but towards the sea, it is a perpendicular precipice of a wonderful height, being more than three hundred and twenty feet high, from its basis on the shore.

 

Common tradition supposes, that Julius Cæfar was the builder of this castle, as well as others in this part of Britain, but surely without a probability of truth; for our brave countrymen found Cæfar sufficient employment of a far different sort, during his short stay in Britain, to give him any opportunity of erecting even this one fortress. Kilburne says, there was a tower here, called Cæsar's tower, afterwards the king's lodgings; but these, now called the king's keep, were built by king Henry II. as will be further mentioned hereafter; and he further says, there were to be seen here great pipes and casks bound with iron hoops, in which was liquor supposed to be wine, which by long lying had become as thick as treacle, and would cleave like birdlime; salt congealed together as hard as stone; cross and long bows and arrows, to which brass was fastened instead of feathers, and they were of such size, as not to be fit for the use of men of that or any late ages. These, Lambarde says, the inhabitants shewed as having belonged to Cæfar, and the wine and salt as part of the provision he had brought with him hither; and Camden relates, that he was shewn these arrows, which he thinks were such as the Romans used to shoot out of their engines, which were like to large crossbows. These last might, no doubt, though not Cæsar's, belong to the Romans of a later time; and the former might, perhaps, be part of the provisions and stores which king Henry VIII. laid in here, at a time when he passed from hence over sea to France. But for many years past it has not been known what is become of any of these things.

 

Others, averse to Cæsar's having built this castle, and yet willing to give the building of it to the empire of the Romans of a later time, suppose, and that perhaps with some probability, it was first erected by Arviragus, (or Arivog, as he is called on his coin) king of Britain, in the time of Claudius, the Roman emperor. (fn. 2)

 

That there was one built here, during the continuance of the Roman empire in Britain, must be supposed from the necessity of it, and the circumstances of those times; and the existence of one plainly appears, from the remains of the tower and other parts of the antient church within it, and the octagon tower at the west end, in which are quantities of Roman brick and tile. These towers are evidently the remains of Roman work, the former of much less antiquity than the latter, which may be well supposed to have been built as early as the emperor Claudius, whose expedition hither was about or immediately subsequent to the year of Christ 44. Of these towers, probably the latter was built for a speculum, or watch-tower, and was used, not only to watch the approach of enemies, but with another on the opposite hill, to point out the safe entrance into this port between them, by night as well as by day.

 

In this fortress, the Romans seem afterwards to have kept a garrison of veterans, as we learn from Pancirollus, who tells us that a company of soldiers under their chief, called Præpositus Militum Tungricanorum, was stationed within this fortess.

 

Out of the remains of part of the above-mentioned Roman buildings here, a Christian church was erected, as most historians write, by Lucius, king of Britain, about the year 161; but it is much to be doubted whether there ever was such a king in Britain; if there was, he was only a tributary chief to the Roman emperor, under whose peculiar government Britain was then accounted. This church was built, no doubt, for the use of that part of the garrison in particular, who were at that time believers of the gospel, and afterwards during the different changes of the Christian and Pagan religions in these parts, was made use of accordingly, till St. Augustine, soon after the year 597, at the request of king Ethelbert, reconsecrated it, and dedicated it anew, in honour of the blessed Virgin Mary.

 

¶His son and successor Eadbald, king of Kent, founded a college of secular canons and a provost in this church, whose habitations, undoubtedly near it, there are not the least traces of. These continued here till after the year 691; when Widred, king of Kent, having increated the fortifications, and finding the residence of the religious within them an incumbrance, removed them from hence into the town of Dover, to the antient church of St. Martin; in the description of which hereafter, a further account of them will be given.

  

DOVER does not seem to have been in much repute as a harbour, till some time after Cæsar's expedition hither; for the unfitness, as well as insecurity of the place, especially for a large fleet of shipping, added to the character which he had given of it, deterred the Romans from making a frequent use of it, so that from Boleyne, or Gessoriacum, their usual port in Gaul, they in general failed with their fleets to Richborough, or Portus Rutupinus, situated at the mouth of the Thames, in Britain, and thence back again; the latter being a most safe and commodious haven, with a large and extensive bay.

 

Notwithstanding which, Dover certainly was then made use of as a port for smaller vessels, and a nearer intercourse for passengers from the continent; and to render the entrance to it more safe, the Romans built two Specula, or watch-towers, here, on the two hills opposite to each other, to point out the approach to it, and one likewise on the opposite hill at Bologne, for the like purpose there; and it is mentioned as a port by Antoninus, in his Itinerary, in which, ITER III. is A Londinio ad Portum Dubris, i. e. from London to the port of Dover.

 

After the departure of the Romans from Britain, when the port of Bologne, as well as Richborough, fell into decay and disuse, and instead of the former a nearer port came into use, first at Whitsan, and when that was stopped up, a little higher at Calais, Dover quickly became the more usual and established port of passage between France and Britain, and it has continued so to the present time.

 

When the antient harbour of Dover was changed from its antient situation is not known; most probably by various occurrences of nature, the sea left it by degrees, till at last the farmer scite of it became entirely swallowed up by the beach. That the harbour was much further within land, even at the time of the conquest than it is at present, seems to be confirmed by Domesday, in which it is said, that at the entrance of it, there was a mill which damaged almost every ship that passed by it, on account of the great swell of the sea there. Where the scite of this mill was, is now totally unknown, though it is probable it was much within the land, and that by the still further accumulation of the beach, and other natural causes, this haven was in process of time so far filled up towards the inland part of it, as to change its situation still more to the south-west, towards the sea.

 

From the time of the Norman conquest this port continued the usual passage to the continent, and to confine the intercourse to this port only, there was a statute passed anno 4 Edward IV. that none should take shipping for Calais, but at Dover. (fn. 20) But in king Henry VII.'s time, which was almost the next reign, the harbour was become so swerved up, as to render it necessary for the king's immediate attention, to prevent its total ruin, and he expended great sums of money for its preservation. But it was found, that all that was done, would not answer the end proposed, without the building of a pier to seaward, which was determined on about the middle of Henry VIII.'s reign, and one was constructed, which was compiled of two rows of main posts, and great piles, which were let into holes hewn in the rock underneath, and some were shod with iron, and driven down into the main chalk, and fastened together with iron bands and bolts. The bottom being first filled up with great rocks of stone, and the remainder above with great chalk stones, beach, &c. During the whole of this work, the king greatly encouraged the undertaking, and came several times to view it; and in the whole is said to have expended near 63,000l. on it. But his absence afterwards abroad, his ill health, and at last his death, joined to the minority of his successor, king Edward VI. though some feeble efforts were made in his reign, towards the support of this pier, put a stop to, and in the end exposed this noble work to decay and ruin.

 

Queen Mary, indeed, attempted to carry it on again, but neither officers nor workmen being well paid, it came to nothing, so that in process of time the sea having brought up great quantities of beach again upon it, the harbour was choaked up, and the loss of Calais happening about the same time, threatened the entire destruction of it. Providentially the shelf of beach was of itself became a natural defence against the rage of the sea, insomuch, that if a passage could be made for ships to get safely within it, they might ride there securely.

 

To effect this, several projects were formed, and queen Elizabeth, to encourage it, gave to the town the free transportation of several thousand quarters of corn and tuns of beer; and in the 23d of her reign, an act passed for giving towards the repair of the harbour, a certain tonnage from every vessel above twenty tons burthen, passing by it, which amounted to 1000l. yearly income; and the lord Cobham, then lordwarden, and others, were appointed commissioners for this purpose; and in the end, after many different trials to effect it, a safe harbour was formed, with a pier, and different walls and sluices, at a great expence; during the time of which a universal diligence and public spirit appeared in every one concerned in this great and useful work. During the whole of the queen's reign, the improvement of this harbour continued without intermission, and several more acts passed for that purpose; but the future preservation of it was owing to the charter of incorporation of the governors of it, in the first year of king James I. by an act passed that year, by the name of the warden and assistants of the harbour of Dover, the warden being always the lord-warden of the cinque ports for the time being, and his assistants, his lieutenant, and the mayor of Dover, for the time being, and eight others, the warden and assistants only making a quorum; six to be present to make a session; at any of which, on a vacancy, the assistants to be elected; and the king granted to them his land or waste ground, or beach, commonly called the Pier, or Harbour ground, as it lay without Southgate, or Snargate, the rents of which are now of the yearly value of about three hundred pounds.

 

Under the direction of this corporation, the works and improvements of this harbour have been carried on, and acts of parliament have been passed in almost every reign since, to give the greater force to their proceedings.

 

From what has been said before, the reader will observe, that this harbour has always been a great national object, and that in the course of many ages, prodigious sums of money have been from time to time expended on it, and every endeavour used to keep it open, and render it commodious; but after all these repeated endeavours and expences, it still labours under such circumstances, as in a very great degree renders unsuccessful all that has ever been done for that purpose.

 

DOVER, as has been already mentioned, was of some estimation in the time of the Roman empire in Britain, on account of its haven, and afterwards for the castle, in which they kept a strong garrison of sol. diers, not only to guard the approach to it, but to keep the natives in subjection; and in proof of their residence here, the Rev. Mr. Lyon some years since discovered the remains of a Roman structure, which he apprehended to have been a bath, at the west end of the parish-church of St. Mary, in this town, which remains have since repeatedly been laid open when interments have taken place there.

 

This station of the Romans is mentioned by Antonine, in his Itinerary of the Roman roads in Britain, by the name of Dubris, as being situated from the station named Durovernum, or Canterbury, fourteen miles; which distance, compared with the miles as they are now numbered from Canterbury, shews the town, as well as the haven, for they were no doubt contiguous to each other, to have both been nearer within land than either of them are at present, the present distance from Canterbury being near sixteen miles as the road now goes, The sea, indeed, seems antiently to have occupied in great part the space where the present town of Dover, or at least the northwest part of it, now stands; but being shut out by the quantity of beach thrown up, and the harbour changed by that means to its present situation, left that place a dry ground, on which the town of Dover, the inhabitants following the traffic of the harbour, was afterwards built.

 

This town, called by the Saxons, Dofra, and Dofris; by later historians, Doveria; and in Domesday, Dovere; is agreed by all writers to have been privileged before the conquest; and by the survey of Domesday, appears to have been of ability in the time of king Edward the Confessor, to arm yearly twenty vessels for sea service. In consideration of which, that king granted to the inhabitants, not only to be free from the payment of thol and other privileges throughout the realm, but pardoned them all manner of suit and service to any of his courts whatsoever; and in those days, the town seems to have been under the protection and government of Godwin, earl of Kent, and governor of this castle.

 

Soon after the conquest, this town was so wasted by fire, that almost all the houses were reduced to ashes, as appears by the survey of Domesday, at the beginning of which is the following entry of it:

 

DOVERE, in the time of king Edward, paid eighteen pounds, of which money, king E had two parts, and earl Goduin the third. On the other hand, the canons of St. Martin had another moiety. The burgesses gave twenty ships to the king once in the year, for fifteen days; and in each ship were twenty and one men. This they did on the account that he had pardoned them sac and soc. When the messengers of the king came there, they gave for the passage of a horse three pence in winter, and two in summer. But the burgesses found a steerman, and one other assistant, and if there should be more necessary, they were provided at his cost. From the festival of St. Michael to the feast of St. Andrew, the king's peace was in the town. Sigerius had broke it, on which the king's bailiff had received the usual fine. Whoever resided constantly in the town paid custom to the king; he was free from thol throughout England. All these customs were there when king William came into England. On his first arrival in England, the town itself was burnt, and therefore its value could not be computed how much it was worth, when the bishop of Baieux received it. Now it is rated at forty pounds, and yet the bailiff pays from thence fifty-four pounds to the king; of which twenty-four pounds in money, which were twenty in an one, but thirty pounds to the earl by tale.

 

In Dovere there are twenty-nine plats of ground, of which the king had lost the custom. Of these Robert de Romenel has two. Ralph de Curbespine three. William, son of Tedald, one. William, son of Oger, one. William, son of Tedold, and Robert niger, six. William, son of Goisfrid, three, in which the guildhall of the burgesses was. Hugo de Montfort one house. Durand one. Rannulf de Colubels one. Wadard six. The son of Modbert one. And all these vouch the bishop of Baieux as the protector and giver of these houses. Of that plat of ground, which Rannulf de Colubels holds, which was a certain outlaw, they agree that the half of the land was the king's, and Rannulf himself has both parts. Humphry the lame man holds one plat of ground, of which half the forfeiture is the king's. Roger de Ostrabam made a certain house over the king's water, and held to this time the custom of the king; nor was a house there in the time of king Edward. In the entrance of the port of Dovere, there is one mill, which damages almost every ship, by the great swell of the sea, and does great damage to the king and his tenants; and it was not there in the time of king Edward. Concerning this, the grandson of Herbert says, that the bishop of Baieux granted it to his uncle Herbert, the son of Ivo.

 

And a little further, in the same record, under the bishop's possessions likewise:

 

In Estrei hundred, Wibertus holds half a yoke, which lies in the gild of Dover, and now is taxed with the land of Osbert, the son of Letard, and is worth per annum four shillings.

 

From the Norman conquest, the cities and towns of this realm appear to have been vested either in the crown, or else in the clergy or great men of the laity, and they were each, as such, immediately lords of the same. Thus, when the bishop of Baieux, to whom the king had, as may be seen by the above survey, granted this town, was disgraced. It returned into the king's hands by forfeiture, and king Richard I. afterwards granted it in ferme to Robt. Fitz-bernard. (fn. 21)

 

After the time of the taking of the survey of Domesday, the harbour of Dover still changing its situation more to the south-westward, the town seems to have altered its situation too, and to have been chiefly rebuilt along the sides of the new harbour, and as an encouragement to it, at the instance, and through favour especially to the prior of Dover, king Edward I. in corporated this town, the first that was so of any of the cinque ports, by the name of the mayor and commonalty. The mayor to be chosen out of the latter, from which body he was afterwards to chuse the assistants for his year, who were to be sworn for that purpose. At which time, the king had a mint for the coinage of money here; and by patent, anno 27 of that reign, the table of the exchequer of money was appointed to be held here, and at Yarmouth. (fn. 22) But the good effects of these marks of the royal favour were soon afterwards much lessened, by a dreadful disaster; for the French landed here in the night, in the 23d year of that reign, and burnt the greatest part of the town, and several of the religious houses, in it, and this was esteemed the more treacherousk, as it was done whilst the two cardinals were here, treating for a peace between England and France; which misfortune, however, does not seem to have totally impoverished it, for in the 17th year of the next reign of king Edward II it appears in some measure to have recovered its former state, and to have been rebuilt, as appears by the patent rolls of that year, in which the town of Dover is said to have then had in it twenty-one wards, each of which was charged with one ship for the king's use; in consideration of which, each ward had the privilege of a licensed packetboat, called a passenger, from Dover across the sea to Whitsan, in France, the usual port at that time of embarking from thence.

 

The state of this place in the reign of Henry VIII. is given by Leland, in his Itinerary, as follows:

 

"Dovar ys xii myles fro Canterbury and viii fro Sandwich. Ther hath bene a haven yn tyme past and yn taken ther of the ground that lyith up betwyxt the hilles is yet in digging found wosye. Ther hath bene found also peeces of cabelles and anchores and Itinerarium Antonini cawlyth hyt by the name of a haven. The towne on the front toward the se hath bene right strongly walled and embateled and almost al the residew; but now yt is parly fawlen downe and broken downe. The residew of the towne as far as I can perceyve was never waulled. The towne is devided into vi paroches. Wherof iii be under one rose at S. Martines yn the hart of the town. The other iii stand that yt hath be walled abowt but not dyked. The other iii stand abrode, of the which one is cawled S. James of Rudby or more likely Rodeby a statione navium. But this word ys not sufficient to prove that Dovar showld be that place, the which the Romaynes cawlled Portus Rutupi or Rutupinum. For I cannot yet se the contrary but Retesboro otherwise cawlled Richeboro by Sandwich, both ways corruptly, must neades be Rutupinum. The mayne strong and famose castel of Dovar stondeth on the loppe of a hille almost a quarter of a myle of fro the towne on the lyst side and withyn the castel ys a chapel, yn the sides wherof appere sum greate Briton brykes. In the town was a great priory of blacke monkes late suppressed. There is also an hospitalle cawlled the Meason dew. On the toppe of the hye clive betwene the towne and the peere remayneth yet abowt a slyte shot up ynto the land fro the very brymme of the se clysse as ruine of a towr, the which has bene as a pharos or a mark to shyppes on the se and therby was a place of templarys. As concerning the river of Dovar it hath no long cowrse from no spring or hedde notable that descendith to that botom. The principal hed, as they say is at a place cawled Ewelle and that is not past a iii or iiii myles fro Dovar. Ther be springes of frech waters also at a place cawled Rivers. Ther is also a great spring at a place cawled …… and that once in a vi or vii yeres brasted owt so abundantly that a great part of the water cummeth into Dovar streme, but als yt renneth yn to the se betwyxt Dovar and Folchestan, but nerer to Folchestan that is to say withyn a ii myles of yt. Surely the hedde standeth so that it might with no no great cost be brought to run alway into Dovar streame." (fn. 23)

Cougate Crosse-gate Bocheruy-gate stoode with toures toward the se. There is beside Beting-gate and Westegate.

Howbeyt MTuine tol me a late that yt hath be walled abowt but not dyked.

 

This was the state of Dover just before the time of the dissolution of religious houses, in Henry VIII.'s reign, when the abolition of private masses, obits, and such like services in churches, occasioned by the reformation, annillilated the greatest part of the income of the priests belonging to them, in this as well as in other towns, in consequence of which most of them were deserted, and falling to ruin, the parishes belonging to them were united to one or two of the principal ones of them. Thus, in this town, of the several churches in it, two only remained in use for divine service, viz. St. Mary's and St. James's, to which the parishes of the others were united.

 

After this, the haven continuting to decay more than ever, notwithstanding the national assistance afforded to it, the town itself seemed hastening to impoverishment. What the state of it was in the 8th year of queen Elizabeth, may be seen, by the certificate returned by the queen's order of the maritime places, in her 8th year, by which it appears that there were then in Dover, houses inhabited three hundred and fifty-eight; void, or lack of inhabiters, nineteen; a mayor, customer, comptroller of authorities, not joint but several; ships and crayers twenty, from four tons to one hundred and twenty.

 

¶This probable ruin of the town, however, most likely induced the queen, in her 20th year, to grant it a new charter of incorporation, in which the manner of chusing mayor, jurats, and commoners, and of making freemen, was new-modelled, and several surther liberties and privileges granted, and those of the charter of king Edward I. confirmed likewise by inspeximus. After which, king Charles II. in his 36th year, anno 1684, granted to it a new charter, which, however, was never inrolled in chancery, and in consequence of a writ of quo warranto was that same year surrendered, and another again granted next year; but this last, as well as another charter granted by king James II. and forced on the corporation, being made wholly subservient to the king's own purposes, were annulled by proclamation, made anno 1688, being the fourth and last year of his reign: but none of the above charters being at this time extant, (the charters of this corporation, as well as those of the other cinque ports, being in 1685, by the king's command, surrendered up to Col. Strode, then governor of Dover castle, and never returned again, nor is it known what became of them,) Dover is now held to be a corporation by prescription, by the stile of the mayor, jurats, and commonalty of the town and port of Dover. It consists at present of a mayor, twelve jurats, and thirty-six commoners, or freemen, together with a chamberlain, recorder, and town-clerk. The mayor, who is coroner by virtue of his office, is chosen on Sept. 8, yearly, in St. Mary's church, and together with the jurats, who are justices within this liberty, exclusive of all others, hold a court of general sessions of the peace and gaol delivery, together with a court of record, and it has other privileges, mostly the same as the other corporations, within the liberties of the cinque ports. It has the privilege of a mace. The election of mayor was antiently in the church of St. Peter, whence in 1581 it was removed to that of St. Mary, where it has been, as well as the elections of barons to serve in parliament, held ever since. These elections here, as well as elsewhere in churches, set apart for the worship of God, are certainly a scandal to decency and religion, and are the more inexcusable here, as there is a spacious court-hall, much more fit for the purposes. After this, there was another byelaw made, in June, 1706, for removing these elections into the court-hall; but why it was not put in execution does not appear, unless custom prevented it—for if a decree was of force to move them from one church to another, another decree was of equal force to remove them from the church to the courthall. Within these few years indeed, a motion was made in the house of commons, by the late alderman Sawbridge, a gentlemand not much addicted to speak in favour of the established church, to remove all such elections, through decency, from churches to other places not consecrated to divine worship; but though allowed to be highly proper, yet party resentment against the mover of it prevailed, and the motion was negatived by a great majority.

 

The mayor is chosen by the resident freemen. The jurats are nominated from the common-councilmen by the jurats, and appointed by the mayor, jurats, and common-councilmen, by ballot.

  

THE CHURCH OF ST. Mary stands at some distance from the entrance into this town from Canterbury, near the market-place. It is said to have been built by the prior and convent of St. Martin, (fn. 47) in the year 1216; but from what authority, I know not.—Certain it is, that it was in king John's reign, in the gift of the king, and was afterwards given by him to John de Burgh; but in the 8th year of Richard II.'s reign, anno 1384, it was become appropriated to the abbot of Pontiniac. After which, by what means, I cannot discover, this appropriation, as well as the advowson of the church, came into the possession of the master and brethren of the hospital of the Maison Dieu, who took care that the church should be daily served by a priest, who should officiate in it for the benefit of the parish. In which state it continued till the suppression of the hospital, in the 36th year of king Henry VIII.'s reign, when it came into the hands of the crown, at which time the parsonage was returned by John Thompson, master of the hospital, to be worth six pounds per annum.

 

Two years after which, the king being at Dover, at the humble entreaty of the inhabitants of this parish, gave to them, as it is said, this church, with the cemetery adjoining to it, to be used by them as a parochial church; at the same time he gave the pews of St. Martin's church for the use of it; and on the king's departure, in token of possession, they sealed up the church doors; since which, the patronage of it, which is now esteemed as a perpetual curacy, the minister of it being licensed by the archbishop, has been vested in the inhabitants of this parish. Every parishioner, paying scot and lot, having a vote in the chusing of the minister, whose maintenance had been from time to time, at their voluntary option, more or less. It is now fixed at eighty pounds per annum. Besides which he has the possession of a good house, where he resides, which was purchased by the inhabitants in 1754, for the perpetual use of the minister of it. It is exempt from the jurisdiction of the archdeacon. (fn. 48)

 

There is a piece of ground belonging, as it is said, to the glebe of this church, rented annually at ten pounds, which is done by vestry, without the minister being at all concerned in it. In 1588 here were eight hundred and twenty-one communicants. This parish contains more than five parts out of six of the whole town, and a greater proportion of the inhabitants.

 

The church of St. Mary is a large handsome building of three isles, having a high and south chancel, all covered with lead, and built of flints, with ashler windows and door cases, which are arched and ornamented. At the west end is the steeple, which is a spire covered with lead, in which are eight bells, a clock, and chimes. The pillars in the church are large and clumsy; the arches low and semicircular in the body, but eliptical in the chancel; but there is no separation between the body and chancel, and the pews are continued on to the east end of the church. In the high chancel, at the eastern extremity of it, beyond the altar, are the seats for the mayor and jurats; and here the mayor is now chosen, and the barons in parliament for this town and port constantly elected.

 

In 1683, there was a faculty granted to the churchwardens, to remove the magistrates seats from the east end of the church to the north side, or any other more convenient part of it, and for the more decent and commodious placing the communion table: in consequence of which, these seats were removed, and so placed, but they continued there no longer than 1689, when, by several orders of vestry, they were removed back again to where they remain at present.

 

The mayor was antiently chosen in St. Peter's church; but by a bye-law of the corporation, it was removed to this church in 1583, where it has ever since been held. In 1706, another bye law was made, to remove, for the sake of decency, all elections from this church to the court-hall, but it never took place. More of which has been mentioned before.

 

From the largeness, as well as the populousness of this parish, the church is far from being sufficient to contain the inhabitants who resort to it for public worship, notwithstanding there are four galleries in it, and it is otherwise well pewed. This church was paved in 1642, but it was not ceiled till 1706. In 1742, there was an organ erected in it. The two branches in it were given, one by subscription in 1738, and the other by the pilots in 1742.

 

Thomas Toke, of Dover, buried in the chapel of St. Katharine, in this church, by his will in 1484, gave seven acres of land at Dugate, under Windlass-down, to the wardens of this church, towards the repairs of it for ever.

 

¶The monuments and memorials in this church and church yard, are by far too numerous to mention here. Among them are the following: A small monument in the church for the celebrated Charles Churchill, who was buried in the old church-yard of St. Martin in this town, as has been noticed before; and a small stone, with a memorial for Samuel Foote, esq. the celebrated comedian, who died at the Ship inn, and had a grave dug for him in this church, but was afterwards carried to London, and buried there. A monument and several memorials for the family of Eaton; arms, Or, a sret, azure. A small tablet for John Ker, laird of Frogden, in Twit dale, in Scotland, who died suddenly at Dover, in his way to France, in 1730. Two monuments for Farbrace, arms, Azure, a bend, or, between two roses, argent, seeded, or, bearded vert. A monument in the middle isle, to the memory of the Minet family. In the north isle are several memorials for the Gunmans, of Dover; arms,. … a spread eagle, argent, gorged with a ducal coronet, or. There are others, to the memory of Broadley, Rouse, and others, of good account in this town.

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-kent/vol9/pp475-548

Thackerville, Oklahoma, May, 2021. The United States has seized 68 protected lions, tigers, lion-tiger hybrids, and a jaguar from Jeffrey and Lauren Lowe’s Tiger King Park in Thackerville, Oklahoma, pursuant to a judicially-authorized search and seizure warrant, for ongoing Endangered Species Act (ESA) violations. The Justice Department will seek civil forfeiture of these animals and any of their offspring pursuant to the ESA’s forfeiture provision.

 

Photo by Bennie J. Davis III / US Marshals

Who is Wheeler?

~ Rutherford B. Hayes

 

William A. Wheeler, 19th Vice President (1877-1881)

In the wake of the Grant-era scandals, both the Republican and Democratic parties searched for untarnished candidates as they approached the presidential election of 1876. Democrats chose one of their most prominent leaders, New York Governor Samuel J. Tilden, who had won national attention by taking on the Tweed Ring in New York City.

 

Republicans passed over their party's bigger names, men who had been stained by various exposés in the press, and settled instead on a ticket of Ohio Governor Rutherford B. Hayes and New York Representative William A. Wheeler. Although neither man was very well known to the nation, both had reputations for scrupulous honesty and independence. If history remembers William Wheeler at all, it is for his character. In his introduction to John F. Kennedy's Profiles in Courage, the historian Allan Nevins reproduced a colloquy between Wheeler and Senator Roscoe Conkling, the Republican political boss of New York. "Wheeler, if you will act with us, there is nothing in the gift of the State of New York to which you may not reasonably aspire," Conkling tempted; to which Wheeler replied, "Mr. Conkling, there is nothing in the gift of the State of New York which will compensate me for the forfeiture of my self-respect."

 

Among the stranger individuals to occupy the vice-presidency, William Almon Wheeler seems to have been scarred by his father's ill health, which left him neurotically obsessed with his own well-being. An excessively cautious politician—to the point of timidity—he straddled the various factions in his party, avoided all commitments, and advanced himself politically while covering himself with obscurity.

 

Wheeler was elected to serve in the U.S. House of Representatives from 1861 to 1863. He then returned to New York, where he chaired the state constitutional convention, a prestigious body whose members included two future presidential candidates, Horace Greeley and Samuel J. Tilden. Although Wheeler spoke infrequently, his words carried weight, and he gained high marks for fairness as presiding officer. In 1868 he again won election to the House, where he chaired the Committee on Pacific Railroads. It was at this time that Iowa Representative Oakes Ames, acting as an agent for the Crédit Mobilier, the construction company for the Union Pacific Railroad, began spreading railroad stock among high-ranking members of Congress, "where it would do the most good." Wheeler not only refused all stocks offered to him, but resigned his chairmanship to avoid further temptation. In 1872, when the Crédit Mobilier scandal broke in the newspapers, Wheeler remained clean as some of the most prominent members of Congress were caught with the stock. His rectitude even inspired him to oppose an appropriation to construct a post office in his home town of Malone.

 

Wheeler was content in his life as a member of the House of Representatives and dreamed of becoming Speaker. However, in early 1876 some Republicans began talking of him as a candidate for president or vice president. The politically astute manager of the Western Associated Press, William Henry Smith, predicted that the GOP ticket would be Hayes and Wheeler. Upon hearing this forecast, Ohio Governor Rutherford B. Hayes wrote to his wife, "I am ashamed to say, Who is Wheeler?" Because Wheeler had served in the House from 1861 to 1863 and again from 1869 to 1877, while Hayes had been a representative during the intervening years from 1865 to 1867, there had been no overlap in their service.

 

At the Republican convention in Cincinnati, Wheeler received a handful of votes for president, but the major contest was between Senator Conkling, House Speaker Blaine, and Governor Hayes. When Conkling's nomination seemed impossible, his party machine, the "stalwarts," threw their support to Hayes as the best way of stopping Blaine, leader of the "half-breed" faction. Having helped Hayes win the presidential nomination, the stalwarts considered the vice-presidency theirs to name and they put forward New York Representative Stewart Woodford. The half-breeds, however, wanted the stalwarts off the ticket. Massachusetts half-breed Senator George F. Hoar promoted his friend Wheeler as a man of high moral character. Hoar approached the distinguished author James Russell Lowell, a member of the Massachusetts delegation, on Wheeler's behalf. When Lowell replied that he was unwilling to vote for anyone about whom he knew so little, Hoar responded, "Mr. Lowell, Mr. Wheeler is a very sensible man. He knows The Bigelow Papers by heart." Lowell, the author of The Bigelow Papers, said nothing but later was overheard telling other delegates, "I understand that Mr. Wheeler is a very sensible man."

 

During the campaign, Democrats vainly sought scandals in the pasts of the Republican candidates but could find nothing that would tar Wheeler's reputation. One campaign biography boasted that, at the time when it was fashionable for congressmen "to dabble in railroad stocks and bonds," Wheeler had neither bought nor sold a share of stock or a single bond in any Pacific railroad. He had served his country in Congress for ten years without adding to the personal wealth that he brought to Washington. "With simple tastes," his biographer extolled, "he has never been greedy of gain either for its own sake or for the luxury it would buy. As a legislator, the thought never occurred to him that his influence could bring riches, and not the shadow of a stain rests on his name." Wheeler had also voted against the "salary grab"—an unpopular attempt by members of Congress to raise their pay retroactively—and refused the increase in his own salary.

 

On election night, it looked as if Tilden and Hendricks had defeated Hayes and Wheeler, especially after Democrats captured Wheeler's home state of New York. Republican newspapers conceded the election, but Zachariah Chandler, chairman of the Republican National Committee, saw hope in the southern electors and dispatched telegrams to party leaders in those southern states still under Reconstruction rule, alerting them that the election was still undecided. Three southern states each sent two sets of electoral ballots, one set for Tilden and one set for Hayes. One of the disputed states was Louisiana, where only a year earlier Wheeler had found evidence that the state board of election had produced fraudulent returns. Now his election as vice president depended upon that same board.

After a specially created electoral commission awarded all of the disputed ballots to Hayes, a joint session of Congress still had to count the ballots, and there was talk of angry Democrats marching on Washington by the thousands to prevent this "steal" of the election. To avoid bloodshed, friends of both candidates met at the Wormley Hotel in Washington in late February 1877. There they agreed to a compromise that settled the election and ended Reconstruction. In return for Hayes' election, Republicans offered federal funds to build railroads through the ravaged South and otherwise restore the southern economy, promised to appoint a southerner to the cabinet, and—most important—pledged to remove all federal troops from the southern states. When members of the Democratic majority in the House of Representatives still tried to block the counting of the electoral ballots, a Louisiana representative assured them that an acceptable arrangement had been negotiated at the Wormley Hotel. The revolt fizzled, and at 4 a.m. on March 2, senators marched to the House chamber to declare Hayes president. Hayes upheld the bargain and removed the federal troops, abandoning black voters to disfranchisement and segregation.

 

Although they had not known each other before their nomination, Hayes and Wheeler developed an unusually friendly relationship while in office. The Hayes family—scorned by many Washington politicos for their old-fashioned manner and strict adherence to temperance—became a surrogate family to the lonely vice president, a sixty-year old widower with no children. The vice president was fond of hymn singing, and each Sunday evening the Hayes family invited Wheeler and a few other friends to the White House library, where Secretary of the Interior Carl Schurz played the piano and the vice president distributed copies of The Presbyterian Hymn and Tune Book for "a revelry of sweet sounds and mingling of souls."