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Ginger red onion marmalade on a rich smoked cod fillet that shouldered a caramelized crust sat on a creamy squash ravioli surrounded by Matsutake mushrooms and aromatic broth. A pickled radish stick finished the course, it's crisp texture and mildly tart flavours shone like a beacon against the sea of subtleties. Wonderful aromas but subtle flavours (save for that gorgeous sweet relish). The pasta was also well done - a tribute to Mills' stint at the River Cafe (and also reminding us of the great pasta we had at Cibo Trattoria, another RC alumni) but filled with a neutral, although finely pureed squash. My dining companion noted that the addition of truffles would be key to this course, of which I felt the contrary, believing that that pungent aroma would displace the subtleties that were central to this course. I felt the over cooked sheet of pork belly superfluous - adding neither dimension and taking away from the enjoyment of the course (a fattier, BBQ cut would add depth to the broth), however the side of pine mushroom and rapini florets were a great add on option, and the crowning toothpick thin pickled radish stick excellent.
"The fragrand white Matsutake (pine mushrooms) in this dish grow wild in the Pacific Northwest. This fall, Chris picke his supply for the menu at his secret mushroom patch. He wouldn't say exactly where this secret patch grows, but he did hint that it is north of Whistler."
Paired with the Sandhill "Small Lots" Voignier, British Columbia
sous vide in 66C bath until internal temp reaches 62C, parsnip butter, baccala fritters, tomato gremolata, heron hill semi-dry riesling and st. germain air.
Black Cod is one the many fish species brought in by Port Oford's commercial fisherman. In Curry County on Oregon's southern coast.
Sablefish, sometimes called black cod, swim near a hydrophone in Barkley Canyon.
Credit: NEPTUNE Canada/CSSF