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This is a close-up shot of the circuit layout.

 

This project uses an Arduino to drive a miniature "segway" balancing robot.

 

A pair of Lego Mindstorm NXT motors are used to drive the robot wheels. An Arduino is used to control the motors. An ADXL335 3-axis accelerometer is used to determine robot orientation. An L293D H-Bridge is used to allow the Arduino to interface with the Lego NXT motors using pulse-width modulation signals. A proportional-integral-derivative (PID) algorithm was used to determine the logic for wheel movement. Programmed in C++.

 

Unfortunately, the robot required "human assistance" to stand up on its own for any length of time. I wish I had a bit more time on this project to continue tweaking the PID algorithm to improve this.

 

Leopard (OS X 10.5) isn't supporting programming the Arduino BT over Bluetooth so I've been using the Mac Mini run through remote desktop to program it. I find it odd running programs graphicly on another computer.

a simple coded ardunio flashing a led. enjoy!

Parts including Arduino, servos, hacked mouse and 3D printed parts.

Arduino with DC Motor.

 

The Arduino is connected to my computer and is pre-programmed to listen to a variable sent from a Python script running in the background of my computer. The Python script connects via IMAP to my gmail account and scans for the keyword, ‘water’, in the Subject field of any new email. If it finds an email that meets the criteria, it tells the arduino to start pumping!

 

This project was accomplished with a micro-controller and help from NYU’s ITP website. Thanks Tom Igoe.

 

Also, for the email processing functions of this project, I switched from Ruby to Python. Accessing basic IMAP search functions of email accounts is easily done in Python.

 

Go here for code and more info:

tedullrich.com/laboratory.php

Arduino Duemilanove

 

USB Power supply takes the 8.75vac input, and with a bridge rectifier, 3 capacitors, and a 7805 regulator, turns it into a nice 5v regulated supply carried by a mashed up USB cable to the Arduino.

The hardware is not particularly complicated: the Arduino is connected to the switches via two daisy-chained 74HC165's, the 8 Data LEDs are controlled via a 74HC595. The four Control LEDs are connected to Arduino pins. In addition I added a DS1307 RTC so that the Kenbak-uino might serve a useful purpose -- as a clock!

I'm using Dale Wheat's excellent Breadboard Arduino.

 

Arduino based 4 bar MIDI sequencer. Plays 4 chords to any MIDI device. Chords can be changed on the fly. Works well with Ableton Lives arpeggiator.

Atelier FabLab 28 janvier 2012, Lanester

This is a binary clock that was built into a 3d-printed case created in Minecraft. It shows the current time in a binary coded decimal format.

 

The model was exported with the free tool Mineways and printed on a Zprinter 650 3d-printer, with a block size of 125mm^3 (so every block has an edge length of 5mm). After printing, LEDs were glued into the case after filing the openings a bit wider. Then, the LEDs were soldered to form a 4x4 LED matrix, and the matrix was connected to an Arduino board.

 

A technical description of the setup as well as downloads of the model and the code can be found here: postapocalypticresearchinstitute.wordpress.com/2012/07/18...

A simple heartbeat sensor for arduino. Communicates each beat to the computer via serial over USB. A little script in Processing sends OSC messages to SuperCollider which makes a sound. Processing also displays a graph of beats per minute readings from the Arduino.

 

This version sends serial messages over the USB connection, a later version sends OSC messages over ethernet (even cooler!) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/chuck_notorious/4041494889/).

 

Next step: use the Arduino Ethernet shield to send OSC messages directly.

 

Next Next Step: Use this as part of a cool multimedia performance!

(It's on this week at the Street Theatre in Canberra! www.lastmantodie.net)

 

Information: cmpercussion.blogspot.com/2009/07/heartbeat-sensor.html

This is a simple persistence of vision hack using the Arduino platform. It took about 20 minutes to put this together and write the code, though I only bothered with a three letter font so far.

When I get round to it I will make a security alarm system.

a bit customized... LED on the bottom and an additional Vin and gnd pin

photos by: flickr.com/ermuggo

5x new arduinos with sht15 and ethernet-shield

 

on the right the prototype

DS18B20 Temp sensors in heat shrink tubing and sealed with RTV (and a screw for a plug).

Uses a neopixel matrix to display a color chosen by iphone app. The last color is store in eeprom and used at restart, so you can have the light on an outlet timer and it turns on with the last color.

UPDATE: study from Indiana University:

news.indiana.edu/releases/iu/2014/09/slow-walking-sitting...

 

Given the way science is not well vetted by the media, I'm concerned that this "sitting is killing you" movement is just another fad.

 

www.npr.org/2012/05/09/152336802/stand-up-walk-around-eve...

 

Never-the-less, I do believe it is probably a good idea for me to not sit at a computer for six hours at a stretch. But when I'm focused... I'm focused. So I've been thinking about a gadget that might help me.

 

And when Sparkfun showed off a new lilipad-buzzer thingy, it inspired me.

 

What you see above is the result of this order:

 

1 - $7.95 - SEN-09376 - Force Sensitive Resistor - Square

1 - $9.95 - DEV-11008 - LilyPad Vibe Board

1 - $24.95 - RTL-09876 - Lithium Polymer USB Charger and Battery

1 - $19.95 - DEV-10274 - LilyPad Arduino Simple Board

 

Plus some wire, a PN2222 transistor, a couple of resistors, and a bit of solder.

 

The stuff came yesterday and I whipped this up today, attached it between two pocket sized pieces of cardboard and sat on it.

 

After 20 minutes, the buzzer goes off until I stand up. If I sit down again before 2 minutes, the buzzer goes off and the count starts over. After standing for 2 minutes, the buzzer goes off briefly to let me know when its OK to sit again.

 

I should probably add a blink every few seconds (so you know the batter isn't dead) and explore the ATMega328p's sleep capabilities. I'm guessing that cell-phone class battery is over-kill for this application. Actually, the whole gadget could probably be made much more cheaply, but I know I couldn't have made one more quickly.

 

If this idea counts as intellectual property, then I'm releasing it under a Creative-Commons Share-Alike license. Code available upon request.

 

BTW, that battery went a week and a half on its first charge with no special power saving code, and only occasionally me remembering to turn it off once in a while.

Summary of the connector pinouts of the Arduino Giga R1. Here also stand the Registers names according to the connector pin names.

For use in a project im working on

There are two boards: the front panel, with LEDs, switches & associated resistors and the main board, with the Arduino (ATmega328P) and other ICs. All the circuits were made with perfboard, the holes provided a convenient grid to help keep everything aligned.

We used Arduino boards for development recently, available at arduino.cc.

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