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So I got the sparkfun LSM303 breakout board working last night. Trouble is the I2C bus needs not higher than 1.8v logic levels to work properly.
The level shifter is capable of doing this, but it needs a 1.8v supply to operate, hence the white wire tapping it off the breakout board.
(The two yellow wires are due to the library pinout of the arduino nano board being bad)
Compass board:
www.sparkfun.com/products/9810
Level converter:
www.sparkfun.com/products/8745
Useful library for reading data:
Base board, without printed board layout. This is the pin set AFTER the chip has been bootloaded, otherwise you need pins running to the 3rd, 4th, and 5th pins up from the bottom right.
I know everyone has done this before. RFID and arduino that is. But looking at the example code it looks like the antenna is always in receive mode. I am not sure how this affects the life of the chip / reader but I thought of adding a way to detect human presence before activating the receiver.
I found some little IR heat detector (here: www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/IRD-10/INFRARED-... and tossed together some analog read code and viola. Now when the IR detector detects over a certain variable heat temp it activates the RFID reader.
I will post the code and write up on my blog.
Elaborado sobre plástico flexible, este Arduino es un ejemplo de lo que se puede hacer siguiendo la técnica de David, autor del blog sewboard.cancamusa.net/
PCBs for a combined magnetometer and/or cloud detector.
Magnetic field measurements are taken from a Stefan-Mayer FLC100 sensor. Cloud detection is by measuring the 'sky' temperature. Low temperatures suggest clear skies and higher temperatures indicate the presence of cloud. A humidity sensor is also fitted to help predict the clear sky and cloudy sky temperatures. The Embedded Adventures lightning sensor module can also be fitted.
The sensor shield in intended to fit on my Calunium Arduino clone but it can also be used with an Arduino Mega2560. Design files, firmware and software are all open source (Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 for hardware, GNU GPL v2 for software). github.com/stevemarple/AuroraWatchNet
the faint glow on the led is infra red light, invisible to the eye, but visible to the sensor in my camera.
Here I'm using the arduino to control the dvd player. I just need play/pause and the dv->out button.
Preliminary PCB layout for Calunium v2 Arduino clone using the ATmega1284P microcontroller.
Silk screen to be cleaned up after the component placement has been finalised.
For more information see blog.stevemarple.co.uk/.
Arduino clone with on-board DS1307 real-time clock. The layout is designed for easy assembly and maximum compatibility with the Arduino Uno, with additional functionality being compatible with the Arduino Mega2560. The auxiliary power connector and optional LM61 temperature sensor are not fitted on this board.
Eagle PCB design files available under Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported (CC BY-SA 3.0) licence, github.com/stevemarple/Calunium
Arudino ethernet shield, use Microchip's ENC28J60 SPI ethernet controller --
open-source Arduino ethernet library is available at www.nuelectronics.com
Arduino LilyPad parts in preparation to being connected to Raspberry Pi. Red part is the 5/3V level converter that allows LilyPad to talk to Raspberry Pi
We taught a workshop on how to create interactive art with the Arduino platform at the Mill Valley Library on October 24, 2015.
We showed 9 students how to make lights blink, sounds play, motors move, and how to add more color with neopixel LEDs, as described in this online guide we created for the workshop:
At the end of the workshop, we asked participants if they would like to this again, and the answer was a resounding yes! Participants told us they learned a lot from this workshop and would not only come back for future workshops, but also recommend this program to their friends.
Instructors for this workshop were Donald Day and Fabrice Florin, with support from Jean Bolte and her daughter Natalie. We are all members of Pataphysical Studios, the art collective behind the ‘Pataphysical Slot Machine’, our poetic oracle.
Come visit the exhibit this month! We’re open every Saturday and Sunday in October, from 1 to 5pm, in the downstairs conference room of the Mill Valley Library.
Special thanks to the Mill Valley Library and the Friends of the Library for making these workshops possible — especially Kristen Clarke, who helped us get the Arduino parts and set up for the workshop.
View more photos of the exhibit: www.flickr.com/photos/fabola/albums/72157659147117739
Testing wood-effect power lead
March 2012
For more on this, arduino stuff and other daft things see the "Making weird stuff" blog
A new version
A new version of the venerable Arduino Breakout Shield.
More info at make.rrrf.org/ab-1.4
Arduinoe shield pin layout on the Terasic DE0-Nano soc board.
Connection of 2 x spi lines and 1x I2C connection for the DE0-Nano soc board.
I'm using an old existing shield for the Arduino. The Terasic board has the right connection pins available. In addition there are 72 pins available for the user. I used 10 pins for the LCD display 4x20 char. This leaves 62 free pins. There is also an extra connector to read 8 analog signals, 12 bit accurate, 500Khz refresch rate.
www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Blink
How To Get Arduino Running
File > Sketchbook > Examples > Digital > Blink
A few seconds after the upload finishes, you should see the amber (yellow) LED on the board start to blink. If it does, congratulations! You've gotten Arduino up-and-running.
/*
* Blink
*
* The basic Arduino example. Turns on an LED on for one second,
* then off for one second, and so on... We use pin 13 because,
* depending on your Arduino board, it has either a built-in LED
* or a built-in resistor so that you need only an LED.
*
* www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Blink
*/
int ledPin = 13; // LED connected to digital pin 13
void setup() // run once, when the sketch starts
{
pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT); // sets the digital pin as output
}
void loop() // run over and over again
{
digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH); // sets the LED on
delay(1000); // waits for a second
digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW); // sets the LED off
delay(1000); // waits for a second
}
We taught a workshop on how to create interactive art with the Arduino platform at the Mill Valley Library on October 24, 2015.
We showed 9 students how to make lights blink, sounds play, motors move, and how to add more color with neopixel LEDs, as described in this online guide we created for the workshop:
At the end of the workshop, we asked participants if they would like to this again, and the answer was a resounding yes! Participants told us they learned a lot from this workshop and would not only come back for future workshops, but also recommend this program to their friends.
Instructors for this workshop were Donald Day and Fabrice Florin, with support from Jean Bolte and her daughter Natalie. We are all members of Pataphysical Studios, the art collective behind the ‘Pataphysical Slot Machine’, our poetic oracle.
Come visit the exhibit this month! We’re open every Saturday and Sunday in October, from 1 to 5pm, in the downstairs conference room of the Mill Valley Library.
Special thanks to the Mill Valley Library and the Friends of the Library for making these workshops possible — especially Kristen Clarke, who helped us get the Arduino parts and set up for the workshop.
View more photos of the exhibit: www.flickr.com/photos/fabola/albums/72157659147117739
Arduino USB: Atmel Mega8 microcontroller and supporting components. See the LED on pin 13? It is flashing a message in morse code. This card has 14 digital I/O lines, 3 PWM lines, and 6 A/D input lines. All programmable via USB. Currently running on USB power, but you change the jumper to run it from a 9 to 12V source.
This is my first ARDUINO project. I downloaded the software from arduino.cc/en/main/software and did the install and plugged the board in and I edited the delay to 200ms. FUN and easy!
the board is from borderlesselectronics.org/ indiegogo which I just received in the mail.
I probably didn't need the Adafruit protoboard for this phase, but the plan is to move the ATMega328p chip right onto the protoboard.
Running at 3.3V and 8MHz means you don't need a level converter for the Pi and you don't need an external clock chip. You can still use most/all of your favorite libraries. Basically you're wiring the chip right to the pi with not much else (a reset button? some leds?).
And I even got the auto-reset to work by messing with the GPIO pins!
First I had to burn the ATMega328p chip with a bootloader. Turns out that this is easy to do *IF* you mess with "boards.txt". I duplicated the section for "Arduino Pro or Pro Mini (3.3V, 8MHz)" and changed one line:
atmega328.bootloader.low_fuses=0xE2
(see forum.arduino.cc/index.php/topic,80126.0.html)
Oh, and of course you can't leave the duplicate board.xxxxxx so I added "int" for each. This lets you use the internal oscillator instead of needing an external one.
The trick here, is to use a 16MHz oscillator (or resonator) and burn the boot loader at 5V. [I used an ATtinyUSB but you can actually use another Arduino as a programmer.] The chip can handle it. Then you remove the oscillator/resonator and wire it up for 3.3V.
Then I had to setup the pi's serial port. By default this is hogged by Linux. You can read the instructions here:
elinux.org/RPi_Serial_Connection
I added one step at the end:
sudo ln -s /dev/ttyAMA0 /dev/ttyS0
This is because the Arduino software doesn't recognize the pi's serial port.
Then you do a "sudo apt-get install arduino -y" and go get a cup of coffee (or a whole lunch) while it installs jre.
The most challenging bit, though, was getting the auto-reset working. This means changing one of the pins to its "ATL3" setting. [!!!]
these are all the pins and settings
Eventually I figured out that the code here:
github.com/rewolff/bw_rpi_tools/tree/master/gpio
in the folder gpio_list actually changes its behavior depending on what you name the file!
So I renamed the binary to gpio_setfunc and then
sudo ./gpio_setfunc 17 ALT3
[I think I have to do this every time I (re)boot. I'll probably make a startup script.]
You'll note that I wired 3.3V and GND to the ATMega328p, and (pi)RXD-TXD(arduino) and vice versa. AND I wired (pi)GPIO17 through a 104cap to RESET(arduino)!
And it worked!!!
Elaborado sobre plástico flexible, este Arduino es un ejemplo de lo que se puede hacer siguiendo la técnica de David, autor del blog sewboard.cancamusa.net/