Premonition is complete!

This time there’s already design video on YouTube with build intro and walkthrough for the major assembly steps. Detailed construction videos for components will follow. A model file, parts inventory, and other information is available on galacticplastics.com.

The model was in design for a loooong time and I appreciated feedback from others throughout. 🙏 I’m grateful for suggestions from Cole Blaq on shaping forward of the nacelles, Red Spacecat on the vertical fins + other bits, and Brendan on the cannon supports + engine output, and Bram on a geometry challenge. My hearty thanks to them and to everyone else that supported/encouraged. 🙇‍♂️

interference the right angle.

These are the actual colors that are manifested by thin air gaps in the flakes crystal structure, not PS pixel painting,

Melbourne Airport. The airconditioners were off (to save power) and our flight was very late. The corona virus scare has lots of people with masks - but most don't wear them properly or the wrong type. This one is not fitted as required (both straps should be on - no airgaps). And he was watching the news channel discussing the virus. Silver Efex Pro 2: Kodak Tri-X 400TX Pro

The wall on the right in this picture is not the exterior wall of the building but rather the last standing wall of the Miller Brewer building.

Built around 1915 and soon to be destroyed 100 years later. The demise of this building began a few months ago when the building at the end of the block was burned to the ground from arson. There shortly after the city/county said the 2 adjacent building (one being the Prince/Roxy Theater that sat 400 and closed in the 50s) suffered severe water damage from the fire, and that they could use the space from the two buildings(and another building currently being used as a jewelery store) for parking space for the Princess Theater. So with camera in hand I decided to check things out for myself. The building itself is all brick exterior with rough cut 12x12 hardwood and brick posts for support in the basement. The basement has been packed full of junk by a local pack rat that has most of Harrimans old buildings packed to the rafters. The first floors is one big open space with the only water damage visable being from leaking water pipes. Even the exterior wall next to the building that burnt shows no signs of fire or water damage (I guess that 4 layers of brick with an airgap called a firewall did its job). The second floor is a bunch of apartments all dirty and abused from vandels. The worse place in the whole building was the back corner where the roof and floors have rotted pretty bad.. not from the fire next door but rather from years of neglect. Not something that couldn't be fixed. Ill try to post some outside shots before D Day.

Is it dirty and rundown? Yes

Should it be destroyed? I dont think so. I think the Princess Theater needs more local businesses to support it then it does a parking lot. Imagine Harrimans old buildings full of diners and shops. People would come to spend the afternoon before they went to the theater.

Am I somewhat biased? Probably I hate to see buildings full of history that served thier community for generations be brought down and replaced with blacktop.

Contents:

[] Nikon D300 + MB-D10 + 24-70/2.8

[] Nikon 70-200/2.8VR

[] Nikon 50/1.8D

[] Sigma 10-20/4-5.6

I did play a few tricks to get everything to fit though (and it is a snug fit). The 10-20 does not have its hood reversed in the bag because its width would have created too much of a bulging of the padded divider in the wrong place to fit all three of the bigger lenses side-by-side unless I took out the dividers in between them. Instead I mounted the hood in its "extended position". That gave me just enough lateral room. The 50/1.8 went into the front unpadded pocket (padded back though). However there's enough airgap on the sides that I feel safe about keeping it there. Also, because of the taller lenses, the bag's flap will not shut using the original straps with the button snaps. I went out to a sporting goods store and purchased some web strapping with snap-buckles to contruct my own straps. I did try and source some hemp straps and matching snaps to make an extension for the original securing straps but was unable to find them anywhere. Actually, I found hemp straps but couldn't find the ring-snap buttons.

This bag weighs around 13 lbs. It's not super-lightweight but it is compact enough to carry around when traveling and visiting museums, restaurants and such. And it provides me with a wide variety of high-quality lenses for all occasions.

(beer bottle shown for size comparison; this picture was taken with a D200 and 18-70/3.5/4.5)

Strobist Info: SB-800 positioned about 18" to the right side bouncing light off the ceiling and left wall.

Contents:

[] Nikon D300 + MB-D10 + 24-70/2.8

[] Nikon 70-200/2.8VR

[] Nikon 50/1.8D

[] Sigma 10-20/4-5.6

I did play a few tricks to get everything to fit though (and it is a snug fit). The 10-20 does not have its hood reversed in the bag because its width would have created too much of a bulging of the padded divider in the wrong place to fit all three of the bigger lenses side-by-side unless I took out the dividers in between them. Instead I mounted the hood in its "extended position". That gave me just enough lateral room. The 50/1.8 went into the front unpadded pocket (padded back though). However there's enough airgap on the sides that I feel safe about keeping it there. Also, because of the taller lenses, the bag's flap will not shut using the original straps with the button snaps. I went out to a sporting goods store and purchased some web strapping with snap-buckles to contruct my own straps. I did try and source some hemp straps and matching snaps to make an extension for the original securing straps but was unable to find them anywhere. Actually, I found hemp straps but couldn't find the ring-snap buttons.

This bag weighs around 13 lbs. It's not super-lightweight but it is compact enough to carry around when traveling and visiting museums, restaurants and such. And it provides me with a wide variety of high-quality lenses for all occasions.

(beer bottle shown for size comparison; this picture was taken with a D200 and 18-70/3.5-4.5)

Strobist Info: SB-800 positioned about 18" to the right side bouncing light off the ceiling and left wall.

I guess Mattel got inspired by this car: www.flickr.com/photos/airgap/1053594933/

If you plan to get this car, be carefull, the packaging is very poor, and it has scotch tape sticked to the car paint, and the paint may come off as you remove the tape. It happened to me!....I guess since it is a 2005 toy the tape is already glued to the car. The car paint is very delicate...

Contents:

[] Nikon D300 + MB-D10 + 24-70/2.8

[] Nikon 70-200/2.8VR

[] Nikon 50/1.8D

[] Sigma 10-20/4-5.6

I did play a few tricks to get everything to fit though (and it is a snug fit). The 10-20 does not have its hood reversed in the bag because its width would have created too much of a bulging of the padded divider in the wrong place to fit all three of the bigger lenses side-by-side unless I took out the dividers in between them. Instead I mounted the hood in its "extended position". That gave me just enough lateral room. The 50/1.8 went into the front unpadded pocket (padded back though). However there's enough airgap on the sides that I feel safe about keeping it there. Also, because of the taller lenses, the bag's flap will not shut using the original straps with the button snaps. I went out to a sporting goods store and purchased some web strapping with snap-buckles to contruct my own straps. I did try and source some hemp straps and matching snaps to make an extension for the original securing straps but was unable to find them anywhere. Actually, I found hemp straps but couldn't find the ring-snap buttons.

This bag weighs around 13 lbs. It's not super-lightweight but it is compact enough to carry around when traveling and visiting museums, restaurants and such. And it provides me with a wide variety of high-quality lenses for all occasions.

(beer bottle shown for size comparison; this picture was taken with a D200 and 18-70/3.5-4.5)

Strobist Info: SB-800 positioned about 18" to the right side bouncing light off the ceiling and left wall.

Originally the Roxy Theater. However when the original Princess theater burned around 1938 the marquee from the Princess had its "ss" removed and the marquee was reused on the Roxy making it the Prince theater. It remained a theater untill sometime in the 50s. It too is on the chopping block.

Built around 1915 and soon to be destroyed 100 years later. The demise of this building began a few months ago when the building at the end of the block was burned to the ground from arson. There shortly after the city/county said the 2 adjacent building (one being the Prince/Roxy Theater that sat 400 and closed in the 50s) suffered severe water damage from the fire, and that they could use the space from the two buildings(and another building currently being used as a jewelery store) for parking space for the Princess Theater. So with camera in hand I decided to check things out for myself. The building itself is all brick exterior with rough cut 12x12 hardwood and brick posts for support in the basement. The basement has been packed full of junk by a local pack rat that has most of Harrimans old buildings packed to the rafters. The first floors is one big open space with the only water damage visable being from leaking water pipes. Even the exterior wall next to the building that burnt shows no signs of fire or water damage (I guess that 4 layers of brick with an airgap called a firewall did its job). The second floor is a bunch of apartments all dirty and abused from vandels. The worse place in the whole building was the back corner where the roof and floors have rotted pretty bad.. not from the fire next door but rather from years of neglect. Not something that couldn't be fixed. Ill try to post some outside shots before D Day.

Is it dirty and rundown? Yes

Should it be destroyed? I dont think so. I think the Princess Theater needs more local businesses to support it then it does a parking lot. Imagine Harrimans old buildings full of diners and shops. People would come to spend the afternoon before they went to the theater.

Am I somewhat biased? Probably I hate to see buildings full of history that served thier community for generations be brought down and replaced with blacktop.

I had two panes of glass, and one idea for a cool shot.

After setting up with the first pane, the shot ultimately failed because the flash did not fire (and, of course, the air-cannon did not have the same problem).

On my second attempt, the flash fired, but then fired a second time before I could close the shutter, and, again, ruined the shot . . . very frustrating.

I was about to shut down and leave the studio out of disgust; however, I decided to try a completely different shot using the largest pieces remaining from the two former glass panes.

I colored the glass pieces by wiping each one with a pad soaked in a particular color of pigment ink. After drying, I hot-glued the glass pieces side-by-side on to a piece of wood, leaving about 3/4" between each piece. Then, after making some adjustments, and triple-checking everything, I prepared for either triumph . . . or crushing defeat.

Thankfully, everything worked. And, while it wasn't the shot I had originally planned, it made my day end on a less frustrating note.

Contents:

[] Nikon D300 + MB-D10 + 24-70/2.8

[] Nikon 70-300/4.5-5.6VR

[] Nikon 50/1.8D

[] Sigma 10-20/4-5.6

I did play a few tricks to get everything to fit though (and it is a snug fit). The 24-70 does not have its hood attached in the bag because it would have created too much width to fit all three of the bigger lenses side-by-side unless I took out the padded dividers in between them. Instead I set the hood off to one side and nestled the 10-20 inside it. That gave me enough lateral room. The 50/1.8 went into the front unpadded pocket. However there's enough airgap on the sides that I feel safe about keeping it there. Also the front flap has enough padding that when closed will provide adequate protection. This bag weighs around 10 lbs. It's not super-lightweight but it is compact enough to carry around when traveling and visiting museums, restaurants and such. And it provides me with a wide variety of high-quality lenses for all occasions.

(beer bottle shown for size comparison; this picture was taken with a D200 and 18-70/3.5/4.5)

Rock solid.

Built around 1915 and soon to be destroyed 100 years later. The demise of this building began a few months ago when the building at the end of the block was burned to the ground from arson. There shortly after the city/county said the 2 adjacent building (one being the Prince/Roxy Theater that sat 400 and closed in the 50s) suffered severe water damage from the fire, and that they could use the space from the two buildings(and another building currently being used as a jewelery store) for parking space for the Princess Theater. So with camera in hand I decided to check things out for myself. The building itself is all brick exterior with rough cut 12x12 hardwood and brick posts for support in the basement. The basement has been packed full of junk by a local pack rat that has most of Harrimans old buildings packed to the rafters. The first floors is one big open space with the only water damage visable being from leaking water pipes. Even the exterior wall next to the building that burnt shows no signs of fire or water damage (I guess that 4 layers of brick with an airgap called a firewall did its job). The second floor is a bunch of apartments all dirty and abused from vandels. The worse place in the whole building was the back corner where the roof and floors have rotted pretty bad.. not from the fire next door but rather from years of neglect. Not something that couldn't be fixed. Ill try to post some outside shots before D Day.

Is it dirty and rundown? Yes

Should it be destroyed? I dont think so. I think the Princess Theater needs more local businesses to support it then it does a parking lot. Imagine Harrimans old buildings full of diners and shops. People would come to spend the afternoon before they went to the theater.

Am I somewhat biased? Probably I hate to see buildings full of history that served thier community for generations be brought down and replaced with blacktop.

Both Buildings back in thier prime.

Built around 1915 and soon to be destroyed 100 years later. The demise of this building began a few months ago when the building at the end of the block was burned to the ground from arson. There shortly after the city/county said the 2 adjacent building (one being the Prince/Roxy Theater that sat 400 and closed in the 50s) suffered severe water damage from the fire, and that they could use the space from the two buildings(and another building currently being used as a jewelery store) for parking space for the Princess Theater. So with camera in hand I decided to check things out for myself. The building itself is all brick exterior with rough cut 12x12 hardwood and brick posts for support in the basement. The basement has been packed full of junk by a local pack rat that has most of Harrimans old buildings packed to the rafters. The first floors is one big open space with the only water damage visable being from leaking water pipes. Even the exterior wall next to the building that burnt shows no signs of fire or water damage (I guess that 4 layers of brick with an airgap called a firewall did its job). The second floor is a bunch of apartments all dirty and abused from vandels. The worse place in the whole building was the back corner where the roof and floors have rotted pretty bad.. not from the fire next door but rather from years of neglect. Not something that couldn't be fixed. Ill try to post some outside shots before D Day.

Is it dirty and rundown? Yes

Should it be destroyed? I dont think so. I think the Princess Theater needs more local businesses to support it then it does a parking lot. Imagine Harrimans old buildings full of diners and shops. People would come to spend the afternoon before they went to the theater.

Am I somewhat biased? Probably I hate to see buildings full of history that served thier community for generations be brought down and replaced with blacktop.

National Geographic anyone? Mostly clutter and dirt but solid and dry!

Built around 1915 and soon to be destroyed 100 years later. The demise of this building began a few months ago when the building at the end of the block was burned to the ground from arson. There shortly after the city/county said the 2 adjacent building (one being the Prince/Roxy Theater that sat 400 and closed in the 50s) suffered severe water damage from the fire, and that they could use the space from the two buildings(and another building currently being used as a jewelery store) for parking space for the Princess Theater. So with camera in hand I decided to check things out for myself. The building itself is all brick exterior with rough cut 12x12 hardwood and brick posts for support in the basement. The basement has been packed full of junk by a local pack rat that has most of Harrimans old buildings packed to the rafters. The first floors is one big open space with the only water damage visable being from leaking water pipes. Even the exterior wall next to the building that burnt shows no signs of fire or water damage (I guess that 4 layers of brick with an airgap called a firewall did its job). The second floor is a bunch of apartments all dirty and abused from vandels. The worse place in the whole building was the back corner where the roof and floors have rotted pretty bad.. not from the fire next door but rather from years of neglect. Not something that couldn't be fixed. Ill try to post some outside shots before D Day.

Is it dirty and rundown? Yes

Should it be destroyed? I dont think so. I think the Princess Theater needs more local businesses to support it then it does a parking lot. Imagine Harrimans old buildings full of diners and shops. People would come to spend the afternoon before they went to the theater.

Am I somewhat biased? Probably I hate to see buildings full of history that served thier community for generations be brought down and replaced with blacktop.

Center for Operational Oceanographic Products and Services staff installs an air gap sensor on the Don Holt Bridge in Charleston, South Carolina. The sensor is part of the Charleston Harbor Physical Oceanographic Real-Time System, or PORTS®. Information from the sensor is critical for under bridge clearance, as ships continue to maximize channel depths and widths while, at the same time, push the bounds of bridge heights.

(Original source and more information: NOAA National Ocean Service Image Gallery)

Loft storage in new build house in Worcester, using the LoftZone StoreFloor system.

www.loftzone.co.uk

twitter.com/loftzone

facebook.com/loftzone

On June 20, 2012, the M/V Zhen Hua 13 delivered new cranes from China to the Port of Baltimore by navigating the waters of Chesapeake Bay. To reach this destination, the cranes had to clear a major obstacle—passing under the Chesapeake Bay Bridge outside of Annapolis. As the cranes slid under the bridge, the National Ocean Service provided air gap information as part of the Northern Chesapeake Bay Physical Oceanographic Real-Time System (PORTS®). These measurements, along with real-time tides and current data, helped to ensure a safe and early passage of the ship in to the Port of Baltimore.

(Original source and more information: National Ocean Service Website)

Whew - that was close! NOAA's air gap technology had the ultimate test on the morning of June 27, 2009.

(Original source and more information: National Ocean Service Website)

Staff from the Center for Operational Oceanographic Products and Services personnel install a microwave radar water level sensor on the Dog River Bridge in Mobile County, Ala. This is one of five stations installed to support the county's storm surge monitoring network established in 2011.

(Original source and more information: National Ocean Service Website)

Built around 1915 and soon to be destroyed 100 years later. The demise of this building began a few months ago when the building at the end of the block was burned to the ground from arson. There shortly after the city/county said the 2 adjacent building (one being the Prince/Roxy Theater that sat 400 and closed in the 50s) suffered severe water damage from the fire, and that they could use the space from the two buildings(and another building currently being used as a jewelery store) for parking space for the Princess Theater. So with camera in hand I decided to check things out for myself. The building itself is all brick exterior with rough cut 12x12 hardwood and brick posts for support in the basement. The basement has been packed full of junk by a local pack rat that has most of Harrimans old buildings packed to the rafters. The first floors is one big open space with the only water damage visable being from leaking water pipes. Even the exterior wall next to the building that burnt shows no signs of fire or water damage (I guess that 4 layers of brick with an airgap called a firewall did its job). The second floor is a bunch of apartments all dirty and abused from vandels. The worse place in the whole building was the back corner where the roof and floors have rotted pretty bad.. not from the fire next door but rather from years of neglect. Not something that couldn't be fixed. Ill try to post some outside shots before D Day.

Is it dirty and rundown? Yes

Should it be destroyed? I dont think so. I think the Princess Theater needs more local businesses to support it then it does a parking lot. Imagine Harrimans old buildings full of diners and shops. People would come to spend the afternoon before they went to the theater.

Am I somewhat biased? Probably I hate to see buildings full of history that served thier community for generations be brought down and replaced with blacktop.

This is part of my Crayon Art series. Check out the full set on my photostream. All the timing was handled with the Camera Axe and the projectile sensor. Lighting was done with an airgap flash.

www.CameraAxe.com/

There are 21 Physical Oceanographic Real-Time Systems (PORTS®) located around the U.S. with the goal of supporting safe and efficient marine transportation.

(Original source and more information: National Ocean Service Website)

This photo tries to show air gapping the crankshaft position (or angle) sensor on a 1997 Mazda Miata NA8 1.8L engine. A credit card is an approximate width within the tolerances of 0.5-1.5 mm or 0.020-0.059 in. The card should be able to be held in place like it is here. The engine first must be turned so that the notch on the crank pulley is across from the sensor. That is where you measure the gap with a feeler gauge or credit card.

Built around 1915 and soon to be destroyed 100 years later. The demise of this building began a few months ago when the building at the end of the block was burned to the ground from arson. There shortly after the city/county said the 2 adjacent building (one being the Prince/Roxy Theater that sat 400 and closed in the 50s) suffered severe water damage from the fire, and that they could use the space from the two buildings(and another building currently being used as a jewelery store) for parking space for the Princess Theater. So with camera in hand I decided to check things out for myself. The building itself is all brick exterior with rough cut 12x12 hardwood and brick posts for support in the basement. The basement has been packed full of junk by a local pack rat that has most of Harrimans old buildings packed to the rafters. The first floors is one big open space with the only water damage visable being from leaking water pipes. Even the exterior wall next to the building that burnt shows no signs of fire or water damage (I guess that 4 layers of brick with an airgap called a firewall did its job). The second floor is a bunch of apartments all dirty and abused from vandels. The worse place in the whole building was the back corner where the roof and floors have rotted pretty bad.. not from the fire next door but rather from years of neglect. Not something that couldn't be fixed. Ill try to post some outside shots before D Day.

Is it dirty and rundown? Yes

Should it be destroyed? I dont think so. I think the Princess Theater needs more local businesses to support it then it does a parking lot. Imagine Harrimans old buildings full of diners and shops. People would come to spend the afternoon before they went to the theater.

Am I somewhat biased? Probably I hate to see buildings full of history that served thier community for generations be brought down and replaced with blacktop.

This is part of a five image test I did to compare different modifications to my airgap flash reflector and lens. For more info visit www.techphotoblog.com/tpb-75/

A steel projectile, moving around 200 mph, takes a quick swim before finishing its task of pulverizing this wine glass into shards and silica dust.

My wife purchased six of these glasses; she keeps them lined up on the top shelf of the hutch in our dining room. After taking this shot, I needed to spread out the remaining glasses to thwart an obvious detection of the missing glass. I doubt that the same method will work with four glasses . . . We'll see.

Contents:

[] Nikon D300 + MB-D10 + 24-70/2.8

[] Nikon 70-300/4.5-5.6VR

[] Nikon 50/1.8D

[] Sigma 10-20/4-5.6

I did play a few tricks to get everything to fit though (and it is a snug fit). The 24-70 does not have its hood attached in the bag because it would have created too much width to fit all three of the bigger lenses side-by-side unless I took out the padded dividers in between them. Instead I set the hood off to one side and nestled the 10-20 inside it. That gave me enough lateral room. The 50/1.8 went into the front unpadded pocket. However there's enough airgap on the sides that I feel safe about keeping it there. Also the front flap has enough padding that when closed will provide adequate protection. This bag weighs around 10 lbs. It's not super-lightweight but it is compact enough to carry around when traveling and visiting museums, restaurants and such. And it provides me with a wide variety of high-quality lenses for all occasions.

(beer bottle shown for size comparison; this picture was taken with a D200 and 18-70/3.5/4.5)

Airgap

This is part of a five image test I did to compare different modifications to my airgap flash reflector and lens. For more info visit www.techphotoblog.com/tpb-75/

This is part of my Crayon Art series. Check out the full set on my photostream. All the timing was handled with the Camera Axe and the projectile sensor. Lighting was done with an airgap flash.

www.CameraAxe.com/

There's some weird stuff going on in this image.

The set up is very similar to that of "Contamination" (i.e., one color-filled baggie inside another color-filled baggie); however, plastic of the inner baggie was of a heavier gage compared to the outer baggie.

The idea was exactly the same as that which I had hoped to achieve with "Contamination"; however, the results were completely different, and something I have yet to understand.

As planned, the longer delay allowed the ball bearing to pierce the inner and outer bags, and travel out of the image image area before the flash fired (leaving a nice splash of water suspended at the point of exit). What I did not anticipate was the opaque-black blooms (some with great texture) at the entry and exit points of the inner baggie.

The inner baggie was filled with yellow-colored water, so, filtered though the cyan-color of the outer baggie, it should take on a green-color (as it does). It also appears that the inner bag expanded along its center, pushing the walls of the inner bag against the walls of the outer bag along a vertical line (thereby reducing the effect of the cyan filtration and causing the color to appear more yellow along that line). But, the textured black bloom is a mystery. I will also point out that both bags appeared perfectly normal after the shot; neither showed signs of stretching or distortion.

I have some ideas about what may have been happening. I'm going to attempt to replicate the results with different colors, bags, and delay times to see if my theories hold water (pun intended).

I am changing out the rear. Installed new 3:73 gears from "Richmond Gears", and an "Auburn Gear" posi unit, along with new stainless break lines. Reinstall the gas tank, which was redone, and coated inside by "Moyer's Tank Repair" of Greensburg, PA. 1/2" fuel lines, front to rear from "Inline Tube" of Michigan. They are special order, and oversized. The did a perfect job of bending them to factory specs. Replaced the fuel sending unit with 1/2" sender, a 100 Micro fuel filter, and a NASCAR style fuel pump good up to 500hp, by "Robbmac Performance". New Edelbrock Airgap manifold, and "Edelbrock Thunder" carb with a Edelbrock 30 micro filter, and "Carter" fuel regulator. So fuel system, and rear axle are complete done.

But its break time. Sit and relax with a cold one...

This is part of a five image test I did to compare different modifications to my airgap flash reflector and lens. For more info visit www.techphotoblog.com/tpb-75/

This is part of a five image test I did to compare different modifications to my airgap flash reflector and lens. For more info visit www.techphotoblog.com/tpb-75/

I've had these water images up for some time; however, I didn't include any information regarding the subject matter or the methods used to create the shots. So, even though no one has asked for the information . . . here it is anyway :-).

General Information:

If you have read this part in one of the other "water" images: you can skip down to Image-Specific Information: because this is the same stuff.

For the most part, the water images are the reverse of the "water drop" images in high-speed photography. Instead of droplets spreading out into the air after bouncing off the top surface of water, these images show air pockets spreading out through water after an object has penetrated the surface.

The shooting perspective is an underwater view of the water's top surface (actually the under side of the water's top surface). Interestingly, due to the angle, the images actually look more natural when viewed upside down (which is how they are displayed here).

Another interesting effect of the shooting angle is how the under-surface of the water acts like a mirror. The under-surface reflects the surroundings --as determine by angle of incidence-- with such great efficiency that light above the water is virtually invisible until an object penetrates the water's surface --at which point, the disruption acts like a sort of "wormhole" to the top, allowing light from above to travel through the water and reflect off the surfaces of the air pockets created by the falling object.

Finally, another cool effect is the multitude of reflective surfaces created by the air pockets and the ripples after an object breaks the water's surface. By placing colored gels outside the initial angle of view, the new surfaces created by air pockets were able to reflect different colors of light. Additionally, disruptions at the water's surface occasionally allows light from above to travel through the "wormhole" and reflect off of the surfaces created underwater.

The color in these images results from the reflection of colored gels and/or colored paper placed at various points around the set, not from Photoshop.

Image-Specific Information:

Sometimes, with these images, it's hard to determine what you're actually seeing. Specifically: is this an artifact that precedes the main event (i.e., the dropped object coming into view), or is this a lingering artifact of an event long (relatively) past? I honestly can't remember what was dropped in this image; however, between this image and the one entitled "Alamogordo," I'm guessing that both images are from the aftermath of the main event.

Regardless, both shots used yellow, orange, blue, and red gels randomly taped to a white diffuser which transmitted the light through the water, and also reflected it off the under-surface of the water. Both images show the complex color mixing that can occur from all the colors reflecting from the irregular surfaces created in the water.

This is part of a five image test I did to compare different modifications to my airgap flash reflector and lens. For more info visit www.techphotoblog.com/tpb-75/

I've had these water images up for some time; however, I didn't include any information regarding the subject matter or the methods used to create the shots. So, even though no one has asked for the information . . . here it is anyway :-).

General Information:

If you have read this part in one of the other "water" images: you can skip down to Image-Specific Information: because this is the same stuff.

For the most part, the water images are the reverse of the "water drop" images in high-speed photography. Instead of droplets spreading out into the air after bouncing off the top surface of water, these images show air pockets spreading out through water after an object has penetrated the surface.

The shooting perspective is an underwater view of the water's top surface (actually the under side of the water's top surface). Interestingly, due to the angle, the images actually look more natural when viewed upside down (which is how they are displayed here).

Another interesting effect of the shooting angle is how the under-surface of the water acts like a mirror. The under-surface reflects the surroundings --as determine by angle of incidence-- with such great efficiency that light above the water is virtually invisible until an object penetrates the water's surface --at which point, the disruption acts like a sort of "wormhole" to the top, allowing light from above to travel through the water and reflect off the surfaces of the air pockets created by the falling object.

Finally, another cool effect is the multitude of reflective surfaces created by the air pockets and the ripples after an object breaks the water's surface. By placing colored gels outside the initial angle of view, the new surfaces created by air pockets were able to reflect different colors of light. Additionally, disruptions at the water's surface occasionally allows light from above to travel through the "wormhole" and reflect off of the surfaces created underwater.

The color in these images results from the reflection of colored gels and/or colored paper placed at various points around the set, not from Photoshop.

Image-Specific Information:

This is an acrylic ball traveling through the water. It has completely passed through the surface, and has completely shed its air envelope. The bottom of the ball has been captured just before it passes from the field of view. A blue-cyan gel was used to reflect color from the under-surface of the water, the rest of the water is transmitting light from the white diffuser in front of the micro-flash.

custom car....PIMP cars - monster trucks - badass car - motopimp - sport cars new models.................cool exotic cars......SEMA autoshow

custom car....PIMP cars - monster trucks - badass car - motopimp - sport cars new models.................cool exotic cars......SEMA autoshow

This is part of my Crayon Art series. Check out the full set on my photostream. All the timing was handled with the Camera Axe and the projectile sensor. Lighting was done with an airgap flash.

www.CameraAxe.com/

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This is part of my Crayon Art series. Check out the full set on my photostream. All the timing was handled with the Camera Axe and the projectile sensor. Lighting was done with an airgap flash.

www.CameraAxe.com/

This is part of my Crayon Art series. Check out the full set on my photostream. All the timing was handled with the Camera Axe and the projectile sensor. Lighting was done with an airgap flash.

www.CameraAxe.com/

This is part of my Crayon Art series. Check out the full set on my photostream. All the timing was handled with the Camera Axe and the projectile sensor. Lighting was done with an airgap flash.

www.CameraAxe.com/

I've had these water images up for some time; however, I didn't include any information regarding the subject matter or the methods used to create the shots. So, even though no one has asked for the information . . . here it is anyway :-).

General Information:

If you have read this part in one of the other "water" images: you can skip down to Image-Specific Information: because this is the same stuff.

For the most part, the water images are the reverse of the "water drop" images in high-speed photography. Instead of droplets spreading out into the air after bouncing off the top surface of water, these images show air pockets spreading out through water after an object has penetrated the surface.

The shooting perspective is an underwater view of the water's top surface (actually the under side of the water's top surface). Interestingly, due to the angle, the images actually look more natural when viewed upside down (which is how they are displayed here).

Another interesting effect of the shooting angle is how the under-surface of the water acts like a mirror. The under-surface reflects the surroundings --as determine by angle of incidence-- with such great efficiency that light above the water is virtually invisible until an object penetrates the water's surface --at which point, the disruption acts like a sort of "wormhole" to the top, allowing light from above to travel through the water and reflect off the surfaces of the air pockets created by the falling object.

Finally, another cool effect is the multitude of reflective surfaces created by the air pockets and the ripples after an object breaks the water's surface. By placing colored gels outside the initial angle of view, the new surfaces created by air pockets were able to reflect different colors of light. Additionally, disruptions at the water's surface occasionally allows light from above to travel through the "wormhole" and reflect off of the surfaces created underwater.

The color in these images results from the reflection of colored gels and/or colored paper placed at various points around the set, not from Photoshop.

Image-Specific Information:

Sometimes, with these images, it's hard to determine what you're actually seeing. Specifically: is this an artifact that precedes the main event (i.e., the dropped object coming into view), or is this a lingering artifact of an event long (relatively) past? I honestly can't remember what was dropped in this image; however, between this image and the one entitled "Hard to Say Goodbye," I'm guessing that both images are from the aftermath of the main event.

Regardless, both shots used yellow, orange, blue, and red gels randomly taped to a white diffuser which transmitted the light through the water, and also reflected it off the under-surface of the water. Both images show the complex color mixing that can occur from all the colors reflecting from the irregular surfaces created in the water.

The bulb had partially survived a previous impact. What remained was a delicate crescent -shaped curve of glass on the right side. The sliver of glass extended from the base of the bulb and curves around to the top of the bulb.

It was a miracle that this delicate shape had remained after such a violent impact, so, naturally, I felt that I needed to finish the job.

In the image, the projectile has traveled through the glass crescent without too much displacement, so the shape is still clearly evident .

If you look closely at the projectile (in relation to its debris field), you will see that it appears to be on its side in a fast rolling spin. The debris particles appear to be flowing in a very tight pattern underneath the projectile (following the direction of the spin), but in a very loose pattern above it.

I've had these water images up for some time; however, I didn't include any information regarding the subject matter or the methods used to create the shots. So, even though no one has asked for the information . . . here it is anyway :-).

General Information:

If you have read this part in one of the other "water" images: you can skip down to Image-Specific Information: because this is the same stuff.

For the most part, the water images are the reverse of the "water drop" images in high-speed photography. Instead of droplets spreading out into the air after bouncing off the top surface of water, these images show air pockets spreading out through water after an object has penetrated the surface.

The shooting perspective is an underwater view of the water's top surface (actually the under side of the water's top surface). Interestingly, due to the angle, the images actually look more natural when viewed upside down (which is how they are displayed here).

Another interesting effect of the shooting angle is how the under-surface of the water acts like a mirror. The under-surface reflects the surroundings --as determine by angle of incidence-- with such great efficiency that light above the water is virtually invisible until an object penetrates the water's surface --at which point, the disruption acts like a sort of "wormhole" to the top, allowing light from above to travel through the water and reflect off the surfaces of the air pockets created by the falling object.

Finally, another cool effect is the multitude of reflective surfaces created by the air pockets and the ripples after an object breaks the water's surface. By placing colored gels outside the initial angle of view, the new surfaces created by air pockets were able to reflect different colors of light. Additionally, disruptions at the water's surface occasionally allows light from above to travel through the "wormhole" and reflect off of the surfaces created underwater.

The color in these images results from the reflection of colored gels and/or colored paper placed at various points around the set, not from Photoshop.

Image-Specific Information:

This is an acrylic ball traveling through the water. An orange gel was used to completely color the water and under-surface; however, a blue gel was also placed partially over a white diffuser above the top surface. When the ball broke the though the water, the resulting surface distortions reflected some of the blue and white light at the surface, making it visible on the other side.

The air envelope --created as the ball dropped into the water-- appears like a propelling tail. As the ball sinks deeper, it begins to shed the enveloping air pocket. As it does, the top of the ball emerges into the water, while the bottom of the ball remains wrapped in air. If you look at both areas above and below the transition line (the jagged line across the equator of the acrylic ball), you should notice a distinct difference in the apparent size of the ball.

I've had these water images up for some time; however, I didn't include any information regarding the subject matter or the methods used to create the shots. So, even though no one has asked for the information . . . here it is anyway :-).

General Information:

If you have read this part in one of the other "water" images: you can skip down to Image-Specific Information: because this is the same stuff.

For the most part, the water images are the reverse of the "water drop" images in high-speed photography. Instead of droplets spreading out into the air after bouncing off the top surface of water, these images show air pockets spreading out through water after an object has penetrated the surface.

The shooting perspective is an underwater view of the water's top surface (actually the under side of the water's top surface). Interestingly, due to the angle, the images actually look more natural when viewed upside down (which is how they are displayed here).

Another interesting effect of the shooting angle is how the under-surface of the water acts like a mirror. The under-surface reflects the surroundings --as determine by angle of incidence-- with such great efficiency that light above the water is virtually invisible until an object penetrates the water's surface --at which point, the disruption acts like a sort of "wormhole" to the top, allowing light from above to travel through the water and reflect off the surfaces of the air pockets created by the falling object.

Finally, another cool effect is the multitude of reflective surfaces created by the air pockets and the ripples after an object breaks the water's surface. By placing colored gels outside the initial angle of view, the new surfaces created by air pockets were able to reflect different colors of light. Additionally, disruptions at the water's surface occasionally allows light from above to travel through the "wormhole" and reflect off of the surfaces created underwater.

The color in these images results from the reflection of colored gels and/or colored paper placed at various points around the set, not from Photoshop.

Image-Specific Information:

I've got to be honest: I'm not entirely sure of what this is. I know it was from dropping an acrylic ball into the water, but I'm not sure if this is just an empty air pocket, or if it is an air envelope surrounding the acrylic ball. The shape and size suggest that the ball may be inside, but all the reflections on the outer surface make it impossible to see if there's actually anything there.

A red gel was used to reflect color from the under-surface of the water, the rest of the water is transmitting light from the white diffuser in front of the micro-flash. A number of white reflectors were positioned in front of the water container, while a bright yellow reflector was positioned off to the left.

Can LEDs make a viable bright strobe? Not really.

I'm messing around with high speed pulsed power for other projects, and have a "100 Watt" LED array handy, so decided to put this question to rest.

Here's the array grossly overdriven, with 6 microsecond long pulses. At low power it's OK, producing over 100 lumens per watt, but starts drooping even before reaching its rated power.

You'd think and (naively) hope you could get (say) a million lumens out of these suckers, if you hit them with 10 kilowatts.

But no. Nowhere close.

Now I did hit this with many thousands of shots during testing, and it showed no signs of degrading. So maybe if you're willing to put up with the atrocious efficiency (and the complexity and expense of a high speed high power amplifier), this might be a viable way to get short, well-controlled light pulses.

For reference, at 9 kW this has about the same efficiency as an airgap (spark) flash, but an airgap flash runs about a thousand times the power.

This is part of my Crayon Art series. Check out the full set on my photostream. All the timing was handled with the Camera Axe and the projectile sensor. Lighting was done with an airgap flash.

www.CameraAxe.com/