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The steam lighter 'Star' at Pier One, Walsh Bay
Dated: No date
Digital ID: 9856_a017_A017000186
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For the past year, I have posted shots of Kent churches on Twitter than on a churchcrawling group on FB, and in the course of that year, I have come to realise that some churches I recorded better than others, and some of the early one, were mostly dreadful wide angle shots.
So, one by one, I plan to go back and reshoot them.
St Mary was one. It was closed on All Hallow's Eve last year, but on Saturday last month, we dropped off some prints to be framed in the town, and a short walk along Strand Street is St Mary.
It was open for an art shot, but that was OK, as I wanted to snap the memorials and details.
Today, St Mary is used as a community resource. It has a stage, and the nave either used for the audience or an exhibition space.
Around the walls are many fine memorials and details to look at and ponder over.
Sandwich had three parish churches, two are now redundant, but both St Mary and St Peter have survived to be assets for the town.
As they should be.
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An extraordinary barn of a church - one of two in the town cared for by The Churches Conservation Trust. That it was a large Norman church is without question - see the responds at the west end of the nave. Like the other two churches in Sandwich, St Mary's probably also had a central tower, the collapse of which (like St Peter's) caused havoc to the building. Rebuilding here took a rather rare form with the building losing its south arcade; having a new north arcade built of wood; and a new roof to cover the whole! By the 20th century the church was surplus to requirements and was threatened with demolition. However local supporters, encouraged by the doyen of ecclesiologists, Ivor Bulmer-Thomas, saved it. Now used for concerts it is open to visitors and has much of interest. In the north aisle are 18th century pews saved from Gopsall Hall in Leicestershire. The chancel contains a rare banner stave locker for the poles used to carry banners in medieval street processions. Nearby is an example of two pieces of stone being joined together with a dowel made from animal bone. The glass in the east window is scratched with the names of the glaziers who have repaired it on numerous occasions!
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Sandwich+2
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THE town of Sandwich is situated on the north-east confines of this county, about two miles from the sea, and adjoining to the harbour of its own name, through which the river Stour flows northward into the sea at Pepperness. It is one of the principal cinque ports, the liberty of which extends over it, and it is within the jurisdiction of the justices of its own corporation.
Sandwich had in antient time several members appertaining to it, (fn. 1) called the antient members of the port of Sandwich; these were Fordwich, Reculver, Sarre, Stonar, and Deal; but in the later charters, the members mentioned are Fordwich incorporated, and the non-corporated members of Deal, Walmer, Ramsgate, Stonar, Sarre, all in this county, and Brightlingsea, in Sussex; but of late years, Deal, Walmer, and Stonar, have been taken from it; Deal, by having been in 1699 incorporated with the charter of a separate jurisdiction, in the bounds of which Walmer is included; and Stonar having been, by a late decision of the court of king's bench in 1773, adjudged to be within the jurisdiction of the county at large.
The first origin of this port was owing to the decay of that of Richborough, as will be further noticed hereafter. It was at first called Lundenwic, from its being the entrance to the port of London, for so it was, on the sea coast, and it retained this name until the supplanting of the Saxons by the Danes, when it acquired from its sandy situation a new name, being from thenceforward called Sandwic, in old Latin, Sabulovicum, that is, the sandy town, and in process of time, by the change of language, Sandwich.
Where this town now stands, is supposed, in the time of the Romans, and before the decay of the haven, or Portus Rutupinus, to have been covered with that water, which formed the bay of it, which was so large that it is said to have extended far beyond this place, on the one side almost to Ramsgate cliffs, and on the other near five miles in width, over the whole of that flat of land, on which Stonar and Sandwich too, were afterwards built, and extending from thence up to the æstuary, which then flowed up between the Isle of Thanet and the main land of this county.
During the time of the Saxons, the haven and port of Richborough, the most frequented of any in this part of Britain, began to decay, and swarve up, the sea by degrees entirely deserting it at this place, but still leaving sufficient to form a large and commodious one at Sandwich, which in process of time, became in like manner, the usual resort for shipping, and arose a Flourishing harbour in its stead; from which time the Saxon fleets, as well as those of the Danes, are said by the historians of those times, to sail for the port of Sandwich; and there to lie at different times, and no further mention is made of that of Richborough, which being thus destroyed, Sandwich became the port of general resort; which, as well as the building of this town, seems to have taken place, however, some while after the establishment of the Saxons in Britain, and the first time that is found of the name of Sandwich being mentioned and occurring as a port, is in the life of St. Wilfred, archbishop of York, written by Eddius Stephanus; in which it is said, he and his company, prosper in portum Sandwich, atque suaviter pervenerunt, happily and pleasantly arrived in the harbour of Sandwich, which happened about the year 665, or 666, some what more than 200 years after the arrival of the Saxons in Britain. During the time of the Danes insesting this kingdom, several of their principal transactions happened at this place, (fn. 2) and the port of it became so much frequented, that the author of queen Emma's life stiles it the most noted of all the English ports; Sandwich qui est omnium Anglorum portuum famosissimus.
FROM THE TIME of the origin of the town of Sandwich, the property of it was vested in the several kings who reigned over this country, and continued so till king Ethelred, in the year 979, gave it, as the lands of his inheritance, to Christ-church, in Canterbury, free from all secular service and fiscal tribute, except the repelling invasions, and the repairing of bridges and castles. (fn. 3) After which king Canute, having obtained the kingdom, finished the building of this town, and having all parts and places in the realm at his disposal, as coming to the possession of it by conquest, by his charter in the year 1023, gave, or rather restored the port of Sandwich, with the profits of the water of it, on both sides of the stream, for the support of that church, and the sustenance of the monks there.
Soon after this, the town of Sandwich increased greatly in size and inhabitants, and on account of the commodity and use of its haven, and the service done by the shipping belonging to it, was of such estimation, that it was made one of the principal cinque ports; and in king Edward the Confessor's days it contained three hundred and seven houses, and was an hundred within itself; and it continued increasing, as appears by the description of it, in the survey of Domesday, taken in the 15th year of the Conqueror's reign, anno 1080, in which it is thus entered, under the title of the lands of the archbishop:
Sandwice lies in its own proper hundred. This borough the archbishop holds, and it is of the clothing of the monks, and yields the like service to the king as Dover; and this the men of that borough testify, that before king Edward gave the same to the Holy Trinity, it paid to the king fisteen pounds. At the time of King Edward's death it was not put to ferme. When the archbishop received it, it paid forty pounds of ferme, and forty thousand herrings to the food of the monks. In the year in which this description was made, Sanuuic paid fifty pounds of ferme, & Herrings as above. In the time of king Edward the Confessor there were there three hundred and seven mansions tenanted, now there are seventy six more, that is together three hundred and eighty three.
And under the title of the bishop of Baieux's lands, as follows, under the description of the manor of Gollesberge:
In Estrei hundred, in Sandunic, the archbishop has thirty two houses, with plats of land belonging to this manor,(viz. Gollesberge) and they pay forty-two shil lings and eight pence, and Adeluuold has one yoke, which is worth ten shillings.
These houses, with all the liberties which the bishop of Baieux had in Sandwich, had been given by him to Christ-church, in Canterbury, and confirmed to it in the year 1075, by his brother the Conqueror. (fn. 4)
Afterwards king Henry II. granted to the monks the full enjoyment of all those liberties and customs in Sandwich, which they had in the time of king Henry his grandfather, that is, the port and toll, and all maritime customs in this port, on both sides of the water, that is, from Eadburgate unto Merksflete, and the small boat to ferry across it, and that no one should have any right there except them and their servants.
The town, by these continued privileges, and the advantages it derived from the great resort to the port, increased much in wealth and number of inhabitants; and notwithstanding, in the year 1217, anno 2 king Henry III. great part of the town was burnt by the French, yet the damage seems soon to have been recompenced by the savors bestowed on it by the several kings, in consideration of the services it had continually afforded, in the shipping of this port, to the nation. The first example of royal favor, being shewn by the last-mentioned king, was in his 11th year, who not only confirmed the customs before granted, but added the further grant of a market to this town and port, (fn. 5) and in his 13th year granted the custom of taking twopence for each cask of wine received into it.
After which, the prior and convent of Christ-church, in the 18th year of King Edward I. gave up in exchange for other lands elsewhere, to his queen Eleanor, all their rights, possessions, and privileges here, excepting their houses and keys, and a free passage in the
haven, in the small boat, called the vere boat, (fn. 6) and free liberty for themselves and their tenants to buy and sell toll free, which the king confirmed that year; and as a favor to the town, he placed the staple for wool in it for some time.
The exception above-mentioned, was afterwards found to be so very prejudicial, as well as inconvenient, that king Edward III. in his 38th year, gave them other lands in Essex, in exchange for all their rights, privileges, and possessions, in this town and port. After which king Richard II. in his first year, removed the staple for wool from Queenborough, where it had been for some time, hither.
During the whole of this period from the time of the conquest, this port continued the general rendezvous of the royal sleets, and was as constantly visted by the several monarchs, who frequently embarked and returned again hither from France; the consequence of which was, that the town became so flourishing, that it had increased to between eight and nine hundred houses inhabited, divided into three parishes; and there were of good and able mariners, belonging to the navy of it, above the number of 1500; so that when there was occasion at any time, the mayors of it, on the receipt of the king's letters, furnished, at the town's charges, to the seas, fifteen sail of armed ships of war, which were of such continued annoyance to the French, that they in return made it a constant object of their revenge. Accordingly, in the 16th year of king Henry VI. they landed here and plundered the greatest part of the inhabitants, as they did again in the 35th year of it; but but this not answering the whole of their purpose, Charles VIII. king of France, to destroy it entirely, sent hither four thousand men, who landing in the night, after a long and bloody conflict gained possession of the town, and having wasted it with fire and sword, slew the greatest part of the inhabitants; and to add to these misfortunes it was again ransacked by the earl of Warwick, in the same reign.
To preserve the town from such disasters in future, king Edward IV. new walled, ditched, and fortifield it with bulwarks, and gave besides, for the support of them, one hundred pounds yearly out of the customhouse here; which, together with the industry and efforts of the merchants, who frequented this haven, the goodness of which, in any storm or contrary wind, when they were in danger from the breakers, or the Goodwin Sands, afforded them a safe retreat; in a very short time restored it again to a flourishing state, infomuch, that before the end of that reign, the clear yearly receipt of the customs here to that king, amounted to above the sum of 16 or 17,000l. (fn. 7) and the town had ninety five ships belonging to it, and above fifteen hundred sailors.
But this sunshine of prosperity lasted no long time afterwards, for in king Henry VII.'s time, the river Stour, or as it was at this place antiently called, the Wantsume, continued to decay so fast, as to leave on each side at low water, a considerable quantity of salts, which induced cardinal archbishop Moreton, who had most part of the adjoining lands belonging to his bishopric, for his own private advantage, to inclose and wall them in, near and about Sarre; which example was followed from time to time, by several owners of the lands adjoining, by which means the water was deprived of its usual course, and the haven felt the loss of it by a hasty decay. Notwithstanding which, so late as the first year of king Richard III. ships failed up this haven as high as Richborough, for that year, as ap pears by the corporation books of Sandwich, the mayor ordered a Spanish ship, lying on the outside of Richborough, to be removed. (fn. 8)
"Leland, who wrote in the reign of Henry VIII. gives the following description of Sandwich, as it was in his time. "Sandwich, on the farther side of the ryver of Sture, is neatly welle walled, where the town stonddeth most in jeopardy of enemies. The residew of the town is diched and mudde waulled. There be yn the town iiii principal gates, iii paroche chyrches, of the which sum suppose that St. Maries was sumtyme a nunnery. Ther is a place of White Freres, and an hospistal withowt the town, fyrst ordened for maryners desesid and hurt. There is a place where monkes of Christ-church did resort, when they were lords of the towne. The caryke that was sonke in the haven, in pope Paulus tyme, did much hurt to the haven and gether a great bank. The grounde self from Sandwich to the heaven, and inward to the land, is caullid Sanded bay".
The sinking of this great ship of pope Paul IV. in the very mouth of the haven, by which the waters had not their free course as before, from the sand and mud gathering round about it, together with the innings of the lands on each side the stream, had such a fatal effect towards the decay of the haven, that in the time of king Edward VI. it was in a manner destroyed and lost, and the navy and mariners dwindled to almost nothing, and the houses then inhabited in this town did not exceed two hundred, the inhabitants of which were greatly impoverished; the yearly customs of the town, by reason of the insufficiency of the haven, were so desicient, that there was scarcely enough arising from it to satisfy the customer his fee. This occasioned two several commissions to be granted, one in the 2d year of that reign, and another in the 2d year of queen Eli zabeth, to examine the state of the haven, and make a return of it; in consequence of the first of which, a new cut was begun by one John Rogers, which, however, was soon left in an untinished state, though there are evident traces of what was done towards making this canal still remaining, on the grounds between the town and Sandowne castle; and in consequence of the second, other representations and reports were made, one of which was, that the intended cut would be useless, and of no good effect.
Whether these different reports where the occasion that no further progress was made towards this work, and the restoration of this haven, or the very great expence it was estimated at, and the great difficulty of raising so large a sum, being 10,000l which the queen at that time could no ways spare, but so it was, that nothing further was done in it.
¶The haven being thus abandoned by the queen, and becoming almost useless, excepting to vessels of the small burthen before mentioned, the town itself would before long have become impoverished and fallen wholly to decay, had it not been most singularly preserved, and raised again, in some measure, to great wealth and prosperity, occasioned by the persecution for religion in Brabant and Flanders, which communicated to all the Protestant parts of Europe, the paper, silk, woollen, and other valuable manufactures of Flanders and France, almost peculiar at that time to those countries, and till then, in vain attempted elsewhere; the manufacturers of them came in bodies up to London, and afterwards chose their situations, with great judgment, distributing themselves, with the queen's licence, through England, so as not to interfere too much with one another. The workers in sayes, baize, and flannel in particular, fixed themselves here, at Sandwich, at the mouth of a haven, by which they might have an easy communication with the metropolis, and other parts of this kingdom, and afforded them like wife an easy export to the continent. These manufacturers applied accordingly to the queen, for her protection and licence; for which purpose, in the third year of her reign, she caused letters patent to be passed, directed to the mayor, &c. to give liberty to such of them, as should be approved of by the archbishop, and bishop of London, to inhabit here for the purpose of exercising those manufactures, which had not been used before in England, or for shishing in the seas, not exceeding the number of twenty-five house holders, accounting to every household not above twelve persons, and there to exercise their trade, and have as many servants as were necessary for carrying them on, not exceeding the number above mentioned; these immediately repaired to Sandwich, to the number, men, women, and children, of four hundred and six persons; of which, eight only were masters in the trade. A body of gardeners likewife discovered the nature of the soil about Sandwich to be exceedingly favourable to the growth of all esculent plants, and fixed themselves here, to the great advantage of this town, by the increase of inhabitants, the employment of the poor, and the money which circulated; the landholders like wife had the great advantage of their rents being considerably increased, and the money paid by the town and neighbourhood for vegetables, instead of being sent from hence for the purchase of them, remained within the bounds of it. The vegetables grew here in great perfection, but much of them was conveyed at an easy expence, by water carriage, to London, and from thence dispersed over different parts of the kingdom.
These strangers, by their industry and prudent conduct, notwithstanding the obstructions they met with, from the jealousy of the native tradesmen, and the avarice of the corporation, very soon rose to a flourishing condition.
There were formerly THREE PAROCHIAL CHURCHES in this town, and a church or chapel likewise, supposed by some to have been parochial, dedicated to St. Jacob, which has been long since demolished; but the three former churches, being those of St. Mary, St. Peter, and St. Clement, Still remain; an account of all which will be given separately.
ST. MARY'S CHURCH stands in a low situation in Strand street, on the northern part of the town. The original church, built in the time of the Saxons, is said to have been demolished by the Danes, and to have been afterwards rebuilt by queen Emma, which building was burnt down by the French, and it was not long afterwards again rebuilt; notwithstanding which, it appears to have become dilapidated and in a most ruinous state in the time of king Henry VI. for in the 2d year of that reign, anno 1448, part of the steeple fell, in consequence of which it underwent a thorough repair, and then consisted of two isles and the nave; the latter was terminated by the high chancel, and the south isle by St. Laurence's chancel. It however, fell down again on April 25, 1667, and brought down with it most of the church; the western wall, portions of the south isle and its chancel only remaining; and though the church itself was soon afterwards rebuilt, as at present, yet it does not appear that any steeple was built till the year 1718, when the present low one was raised upon the south porch, and one bell put up in it. Before this, there were five small bells, which about the year 1639, had been formed out of three larger ones; the above five bells were sold, for the faculty had been obtained in 1669, to fell the useless timber and the bells, towards the rebuilding of the church, and they were sold, as it is said, to the parish of Eleham.
In an antient bead-roll of this church, there is mention made of John and William Condy, the first beginners of the foundation of the chantry of that name in this church; of Thomas Loueryk and his wife, who founded the chapel of our Lady, at the east head of it; and of the three windows of the north side of the church; of Thomas Elys and Margaret his wife, and Sir Thomas Rolling, vicar of this church, of whose goods was made the west window of it, and who made the vicarage of the parish more than it was before; and besides these, of several other benefactors to the windows and other parts of it. And there were divers other gifts made to this church, for its reparation, and for obits, and other religious services performed in it, as appears by the evidences belonging to it.
The inventory of the silver and jewels, belonging to the church before the reformation, sufficiently shew the costliness of the utensils belonging to it, and the riches of it. The silver, according to the inventory made of them, amounting to 724 ounces; and the habits of the ministers to officiate in it, the linen and books, were answerable to the rest belonging to it.
The present church of St. Mary consists of a north isle, and the nave, at the end of which is the chancel, which has an ascent of three steps on each side; between which entrances are the mayor's seat and other pews. The altar piece, table, and rails, are of wainscot and very ornamental. The sont is at the west end of the nave, it is a stone bason, having eight faces changed alternately with plain shields and roses, in quaterfoils; on the shaft are the letters cw. II. RS. DE. IC. POD. 1662.
In this church are numbers of monuments and inscriptions, all which are printed in Mr. Boys's Collections, P. 319, the whole too numerous to mention here, but among others at the west end of the nave, are memorials of the Smiths and Verriers. In the south space are memorials for the Petleys and for the Whites. In the middle space, on an old stone, are the remains of a cross story, resting on a dog or lion, and the remains of an inscription with this date, I. M. CCC. XXX. In the north isle are three grave-stones, on a rise above the pavement, with inscriptions shewing, that underneath is a vault, in which lie many of the family of Hayward, formerly mayors of this town; arms, Argent, on a pale, sable, three crescents of the field, In the chancel is a large stone, robbed of its brasses, which formerly commerated the deaths of Roger Manwood and his family; the place where it lies was formerly St. Laurence chancel. In the chancel is a monument of stone much defaced; on it are the figures of a manand woman kneeling, in a praying posture, for Abraham Rutton, formerly mayor, and Susan his wife, by whom he had seven sons and six daughters. He died in 1608; and for his descendant the Rev. John Rutton, obt. 1763, rector of this parish. Against the south wall, is a handsome monument of marble, with these arms, Argent, five chevronels, sable, and per pale, azure and gules, a lion rampant, argent; and an inscription for several of the family of Hougham. Against the same wall a tablet, for Mary, wife of Joseph Stewart, esq. obt. 1775; arms, Argent, a lion rampant, gules, over all, a bend raguled, or. Over the south door, a marble monument for Richard Solly, gent. thrice mayor, obt. 1731; and Anna his wife, daughter of John Crickett, gent, by whom he had ten sons and three daughters; arms, Azure, a chevron, party per pale, or, and gules, between three soles, naient, argent. At the west end of the nave is an altar tomb, with an inscription, shewing, that in a vault underneath, lie several of the Cricketts; another altar tomb, with an inscription, for several of the Nowells; arms, Three covered cups. By the gallery stairs, on an altar tomb, an inscription for Tho. Danson, preacher, of this town, who died 1764; on a raised monument of brick, an inscription, for several of the name of Jordan; this stands close before, and hides the altar part of a monument, under an arch in the north wall, to the memory of Sir William Loverick, of Ash, and dame Emma his wife, the daughter of Sir John Septvans, of that parish, who are said to have been the principal repairers, or builders of this church, after it had been burnt by the French, and were buried in king Henry IV.'s reign; on an adjoining tomb an inscription for the Maundys.
There are stones, pointing out the entrances into the vaults of Solly and Stewart, and there are inscriptions on a board, commemorating the benefactions of John Dekewer, esq. Solomon Hougham, gent. Sir Henry Furnese, bart. and Mr. Peter Jarvis.
Several names appear on the stones, on the outside of the east and north walls of the chancel. Sir Edward Ringely, of Knolton, was buried in Jesus chapel, in this church, on the left side of the altar. In the 35th of king Henry VIII. William, lord Clinton, is said to have been interred under a gilded arch in the south wall of this church, which arch was walled up in king Edward VI.'s reign, but it was visible some time afterwards in the church yard, perhaps it may be the same projectioin that now appears there, on the south side of the chancel. William Condie, who founded the chantry, afterwards called by his name, in this church, was likewife interred, together with his wife, in the south isle of the old church, near the lord Clinton's tomb; but there is nothing now to point out precisely the situation of their remains, nor those of Thomas Manwood, gent. who died in king Henry VIII.'s time and was buried under the belfry. Stephen Perot was buried likewise in this church in 1570.
There are several altar tombs in the church-yard, one of which is for the family of Dekewer; arms, Vert, on a cross, engrailed, or, five fleurs de lis, sable; in the first and fourth quarters, a caltrop, argent; in the second and third quarters, a lion rampant, of the last.
An anchoress had her cell at the east end of this church in the 20th year of king Henry VIII.
At a small distance south-west of St. Mary's church, was a church or chapel, dedicated to St. facob, supposed by many to have been a parochial church; there is nothing lest now to point out the situation of the building, the cemetery remains and is used occasionally as a burial place, for the use of St. Mary's parish. This church-yard seems to have got into lay hands at the suppression, for in 1578, it was enfeoffed by Edward Wood, to certain persons, for the necessary uses of the parish. The trust was renewed in 1604 and 1649. At the south-west corner was an hermitage, the residence of an hermit. The last hermit in it was John Steward, in king Henry VIII.'s reign, who was afterwards vicar of St. Mary's church, whose duty it was to minister to strangers and the poor, to bury the dead, and pray for the people in the chapel, which was destroyed, as well as others of the like sort, in the beginning of king Edward VI.'s reign. Great part of this building was standing at the latter end of Edward VI.'s reign; there was in it a brotherhood of St. Catherine, consisting of both brothers and sisters, which was benesitted by the will of John Wynchelse, of Sandwich. It appears that this church or chapel was under the management of the officers of St. Mary's parish, and that the building had been repaired in the years 1445 and 1478.
The church of St. Mary is a vicarage, the patronage of which has ever been part of the possessions of the archdeaconry of Canterbury, to whom the appropriation of the church likewise formerly belonged; it did so in the 8th year of king Richard II. anno 1384, when on the taxation of the spiritualities and temporalities ecclesiastic, in this diocese, the church of St. Mary's appropriated to the archdeacon, was valued at eight pounds, and the vicarage was valued at only four pounds, and on account of the smallness of it, was not taxed to the tenth. (fn. 47) The vicarage is valued in the king's books, in king Henry VIII.'s reign, at 8l. 1s. since which time, and it should seem during the reign of queen Elizabeth, the great tithes, or appropriate parsonage of this church, were given up by the archdeacon to the vicarage, so that the vicar has been since intitled to both great and small tithes within the bounds of this parish, which induced several of the incumbents to stile themselves rectors, but certainly wrong, for it is still a vicarage, the vicars of which are entitled to the receipt and possession of the great tithes, by grant from the appropriator.
¶In 1588 here were 385 communicants, and it was valued at forty pounds per annum. In 1640 here were the same number of communicants, and it was valued at sixty-eight pounds. It is now a discharged living, of the clear yearly value of forty pounds. It has been augmented by the governors of queen Anne's bounty, the greater part of the money from which has been laid out in the purchase of marsh land in Wood. nesborough. At present the vicar receives the tithes of about eighty-four acres of land. There were great disputes formerly, between the appropriators of Eastry and the vicars of St. Mary's, respecting the tithes of a small district of land called Puttock's downe; but the decisions were constantly against the vicars of St. Mary's, and the tithes now belong to Word, a chapel of ease to Eastry.
Besides the ordinary small tithes, the vicar of this parish, as well as the incumbents of the two other parishes in Sandwich, collect from every house a certain sum, under the denomination of dues; this payment is said to be a composition for all the house, gardens, barns, and stables, according to custom, since the 12th year of queen Elizabeth; and the vicar of St. Mary's receives besides, 6s. 8d. annually, under the denomination of tithe of the old Crane.
In 1776 there were one hundred and sixty-eight houses in this parish, and six hundred and fourteen inhabitants; and the rents of it were in 1787, according to the pound rate, at rack rents towards the poor, upwards of 3,500l. per annum.
www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-kent/vol10/pp152-216#h2-...
Between the two Boughtons along the sandstone ridge, little did I know there are three parishes, Chart Sutton, Sutton Valance and East Sutton.
As it happened I sailed past Chart Sutton without realising it was there, and there was a wedding on at Sutton Valance. But I had seen some fine hand made signs pointing to an open church, which happened to be East Sutton.
I was welcomed warmly, and once we had all agreed to how many churches in Kent I had visited, one of the wardens gave me a fine guided tour of the church.
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A knockout church that stands cheek by jowl with the red brick mansion that is now a prison with warning signs that tell you not to photograph the house whilst photographing the church! Mainly fourteenth century building but remodelled with new windows in the fifteenth. It contains much of interest although in many respects the late nineteenth century restoration which removed the plaster from the walls has created an interior unlike anything that went before. The memorials to the Filmer family are what most people come to see – from a rare 17th century brass plate to a nineteenth century marble baby the church ahs it all. The windows are mostly late 19th and early 20th century by Westlake. The post WW1 south chapel east window depicts a soldier, sailor, airmen and nurse under figures of Osmund, Edmund and Christ. The lovely font is one of the nicest thirteenth century examples around – one amazingly thin pillars. Architecturally the north chapel north window, with flamboyant tracery is the masterpiece but really it is the whole ensemble that goes to create such a welcoming and memorable space.
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=East+Sutton
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EAST SUTTON.
THE next parish eastward from Town Sutton is East Sutton, having the appellation of East from its situation eastward of the two adjoining parishes of Sutton Valence and Chart Sutton, though that of Sutton, near Dover, is likewise frequently stiled East Sutton, from its situation in the eastern part of this county.
IT is a small parish, and would be but little known or frequented was it not for the residence of the Filmer family in it. It is much the same situation and soil as the last described parish of Sutton Valence, the quarry hills crossing the middle of it; the church stands near the summit of the hill, at the back of East Sutton-place, which is pleasantly situated, having a most beautiful and extensive view southward, the park lying before it, which is well cloathed with trees both of ash and oak, and has a fine piece of water in sight of the house in the lower part of it; about half a mile south-east from the manor house, about the middle of the hill, is Little Charlton, which has still the appearance of a gentleman's seat, having several good rooms in it well ornamented with stucco, fret-work, &c. and every convenience requisite for a gentleman's family, and the hospitality of former times; from the top of the hill southward it is within the Weald, a low, flat and miry country. On the other side, above the church, from the shade of the quantities of trees which spread thickly over it, that part has an unpleasant and gloomy aspect. In this part is (hartway-street, the only village in this parish, the southern side of which only, on which however almost all the houses are built, being in this parish and its northern boundary, the other side of it being in Bromfield; the rest of the houses in East Sutton, excepting the two small hamlets of Friday and Sunday-streets, being intersperted at various distances throughout it.
THIS PLACE was part of those possessions with which Odo, bishop of Baieux, was enriched by his half-brother William the Conqueror, under the general title of whose lands it is thus entered in the survey of Domesday:
The same Adam Fitzhubert holds of the bishop Sudtone. It was taxed at one suling and an half. The arable land is eight carucates. In demesne there are two, and fifteen villeins, with nine borderers, having four carucates. There is a church and ten servants, and eight acres of meadow. Wood for the pannage of fifty bogs. In the time of king Edward the Confessor, and afterwards, it was worth ten pounds, now twelve pounds, and yet it pays eighteen pounds. Leuenot held it of king Edward.
On the bishop's disgrace, which happened in 1084, about four years after the taking the above survey, this among the rest of his estates became confiscated to the crown.
In the reign of Henry the IIId, John de Salario held East Sutton (fn. 1) of Simon de Montfort, earl of Leicester; Geffry de Maitel held it in the latter end of that reign, and the beginning of the reign of king Edward the 1st, his successor was Adam de Martel, whose right to it was allowed against the king before the justices itinerant, in the 21st year of Edward I. Aymer de Valence, earl of Pembroke, was in possession of it in the beginning of the next reign of king Edward II. and died in the 17th year of it s. p. upon which his three sisters became his coheirs; of whom Isabel, married to John de Hastings, of Bergavenny, seems to have had this manor allotted to her as part of her share in the inheritance, and in his descendants, earls of Pembroke, it continued down in like manner as Sutton Valence manor before described, till on their failure of issue in king Henry the IVth's reign, Reginald, lord Grey, of Ruthyn, became entitled to it as next of kin and heir of Aymer, earl of Pembroke, but on his being taken prisoner by Owen Glendower, in Wales, king Henry IV. in his 4th year, granted licence to I obert Braybrook, bishop of London, and others, then seoffees of his several lordships, to sell this manor among others, towards raising a sum of money for his ransom. They sold it to Richard Brigge Lancaster, king at arms, who alienated it in the third year of king Henry V. to Thomas Buttiller and Thomas Bank. After which it passed into the family of Darrell, one of whom Sir Richard de Darrel, possessed it in the reign of king Edward IV.
In the first year of king Henry VIII. John York, esq. of Ramsbury, in Wiltshire, was owner of it, and in the 6th year of that reign passed it away to Richard Chetham, prior of the priory of Ledes, and it seems to have been for the use of his convent by the receipt in the exchequer, anno 8 Henry VIII. Nevertheless they had divested themselves of the possession of it before the 20th year of that reign, when Sir Henry Guldeford, knight of the garter, and comptroller of the king's houshold, owned it. He died s. p. in the 23d year of that reign, and his heirs sold this manor the next year to Richard Hill, esq. who in the 29th year of it alienated it to Thomas, lord Cromwell, and he soon afterwards exchanged it with the crown for other lands, where the fee of it remained till the king in his 37th year granted it, with its appurtenances, to John Tuston, and Stephen Reaves, to hold in capite, and they that year alienated it to Thomas Argall, who bore for his arms, Party per fess, argent and vert, a pale counterchanged; three lions heads erased gules. He procured his lands in this county to be disgavelled by the act of the 2d and 3d of Edward VI. and died possessed of it in the 6th year of that reign.
His son and heir, Richard Argall, esq. had by Mary his wife, daughter of Sir Reginald Scott, of Scots-hall, a son John, and two daughters, Catherine, wife of Ralph Bathurst, esq. of Horton Kirkby, and Elizabeth, of Sir Edward Filmer, of Little Charleton, in this parish, John Argall, esq. the son, was of Colchester, in Essex, and in the 8th year of king James I. sold this manor to his brother-in-law, Sir Edward Filmer before-mentioned, who upon that removed from his seat of Little Charleton to the manor house of East Sutton, called East Sutton-place, where he kept his shrievalty in the 13th year of that reign. The family of Filmer was originally seated at the manor of Herst, in the parish of Otterden, where Robert Filmer lived in king Edward the IId.'s reign. His descendants continued there till Robert Filmer, son of James, removed to the manor of Little Charlton, in this parish, which he had purchased of the family of Kempe, and had built a seat on it for his residence, it was antiently called Charlton-court, and had owners of its own name in the reigns of king Edward II. and III. (fn. 2) He was one of the prothonotaries of the common pleas for twenty years in the reign of queen Elizabeth, and to him Cooke, clarencieux, in 1570, granted, or rather confirmed the arms of the family, viz. Sable, three bars, and as many cinquefoils in chief, or. He died in 1585, and was buried in this church, which has ever since continued the burialplace of the family. He was the father of Sir Edward Filmer, the purchaser of this manor of East Sutton as before mentioned. (fn. 3)
He had by his wife before mentioned, nine sons and nine daughters, and died in 1629, being succeeded here by Robert, his eldest son, who was knighted by king Charles I. and resided at East Sutton. He employed his pen in defence of the rights of the crown. He was educated at Trinity-college, Cambridge, and wrote the Anarchy of a limited or mixed Monarchy; Patriarcha, or the natural Power of Kings; the Freeholder's grand Inquest, and Reflections concerning the Original of Government, besides several other tracts, all which were published after his death by his son. He was a great sufferer during the civil wars of king Charles I.'s reign, having his house here plundered ten times by the rebels, and himself imprisoned in Leeds-castle for his loyalty. He died in 1653, having married Anne, daughter and coheir of Martin Heton, bishop of Ely, by which an addition of fortune, as well as of arms, accrued to him.
He was succeeded by his eldest son, Sir Edward Filmer, gentleman of the privy chamber both to king Charles I. and II. who dying unmarried at Paris, in 1668, was succeeded in his estates by his next brother, Robert Filmer, esq. barrister-at-law, of Gray's inn, who, in consideration of his father's sufferings and loyalty to Charles I. was, on Dec. 24, 1674, created a baronet. He resided at East Sutton-place, which, as well as the park round it, he greatly augmented and improved, inclosing the whole with a stone wall. He died in 1675, leaving several sons and daughters, of whom Sir Robert Filmer, bart. his eldest son and successor, resided here, and in 1689, being the last of king James II. served the office of sheriff. He died in 1720, having married Elizabeth, daughter and coheir of Sir William Beversham, of Holbrookhall, in Suffolk, one of the masters in chancery, (fn. 4) by whom he had several sons and daughters. Beversham Filmer, esq. one of the younger sons, was of Lincoln'sinn, barrister-at law, master of the Nisi Prius office in B. R. and one of the most able conveyancers this kingdom has produced. He died unmarried in 1763, and was buried in this church, having by his last will bequeathed his estates in this county to his nephew, Sir John Filmer, bart.
Sir Edward Filmer, bart. the eldest son, resided at East Sutton, and married Mary, daughter of John Wallis, esq. of Oxfordshire, only son and heir of the learned John Wallis, D. D. Savilian professor of geometry at Oxford, and F. R. S. by whom he had twenty children, viz. eleven sons and nine daughters; of the former, John, the eldest, succeeded him in title and estate; Beversham married Dorothea, second daughter of William Henley, esq. late of Gore-court; the died in 1793, s. p. Edmund is rector of Crundall, and married Arabella-Christiana, the eldest daughter of Sir John Honywood, bart. by his first lady, by whom he has had six sons and two daughters; Francis, barrister-at-law, of Lincoln's-inn, is unmarried. Of the daughters, Dorothy, married the late Sir John Honywood, bart. He died in 1755, æt. 72, and was succeeded by his eldest son, Sir John Filmer, bart. of East Sutton, who died in 1797, æt. 84, and was buried with his ancestors in this church. He married Dorothy, daughter of the Rev. Julius Deedes, prebendary of Canterbury, by whom he had no issue. She survived him, but the title, and this manor and seat, together with the rest of his possessions in this parish, devolved to his next brother and heir, now Sir Beversham Filmer, bart. who resides here, and is the present owner of them.
BOYTON is a manor in this parish, which formerly belonged to the priory of Christ-church, in Canterbury, and continued so till the dissolution of it in the reign of king Henry VIII. when it was, together with the rest of the possessions of the priory, surrendered into the king's hands, who by his dotation-charter in his 33d year, settled this manor on his new-erected dean and chapter of Canterbury, part of whose possessions it still remains.
The lessee of this manor, in the year 1645, was Sir Robert Stapleton, bart. who held it under the ruling powers of that time, the dean and chapter being dissolved, at the yearly rent of 5l. 6s. 8d. and one pound for entertainment money to the receiver of the church.
The family of Hope have been lessees of it for many years, the present lessee being Mrs. Sarah Hope.
Charities.
STEPHEER PENDE, gent. of this parish, by deed, anno 23 Henry VIII. gave a messuage, barn, garden, and two crosts of land, containing four acres in this parish; and GEORGE USMER, gent. of this parish, by deed, anno 6 Elizabeth, gave two pieces of land, containing three acres, in this parish; and by his will, anno 8 Elizabeth, gave three pieces of land, called Randalls and Lakefield, the latter in Town Sutton, and the former in this parish, all which were given for the habitation and maintenance of the curate of this parish, but if such curate should not reside in the said messuage, then the churchwardens were to receive the rents of all the before-mentioned premises, and apply them towards the repairs of the church. And he gave by will a piece of land called Park-corner, otherwise Lodge-land, in this parish, to the intent that the churchwardens should receive the rents, and, with the assent and advice of the inhabitants, yearly distribute the same amongst the poor on Good Friday and All Holland day, by equal proportion. And he further willed, that the churchwardens should receive the rents of two pieces of land in this parish, called Huntings, to be by them bestowed, with the advice of the inhabitants, in bread, cheese, and beer, among the poor of it on St. George's and Christmas day, yearly.
DAME ELIZABETH FILMER, widow of Sir Edward Filmer, in 1638, gave 100l. to the use of the poor of this parish.
MRS. SUSAN WATTS, of this parish, widow, gave 50l. for the use of the poor, and directed, that poor antient widows should be first preferred, and most relieved, according to their necessities.
The above-mentioned sums of 100l. and 50l. having been many years placed out at interest upon a mortgage, were, in 1722, together with 10l. raised by subscription among the parishioners, and 10l. given by Sir Edward Filmer, bart. and the further sum of 25l. raised by the sale of timber growing on the lands called Huntings and Lodge-lands above-mentioned, amounting in all to 1951. laid out in the purchase of a messuage, barn, orchard, and six pieces of land in Hedcorn, upon the den of Hockenbury, purchased of one William Fleet, and now in the occupation of John Croucher, at the yearly rent of 10l. 1s. 8d. to the uses following: to pay 40s. a year to the curate of this parish, so long as he inhabited here, and demeaned himself well, and diligently served the cure, and preached four quarterly sermons as therein directed; but in default of such residency, &c. to pay one moiety of the said 40s. towards the repairs of the church, and the other moiety, together with all the residue of the rents of the said Hockenbury farm, to the use of the poor.
SIR ROBERT FILMER, bart. gave by will in 1703, a piece of land, the yearly produce of it to be given in wheat, among eight of the poorest inhabitants at Christmas, vested in Sir John Filmer, bart. and now of the annual produce of 20s.
The number of poor relieved constantly are about twentyfive, casually about ten.
EAST SUTTON is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Sutton.
The church is dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul. It is not a large building, and has a square tower at the west end of it. It is kept remarkably neat, and in good repair. The grave-stones of the Filmers in it are a complete series of this family, from the time of their coming to reside in this parish. All the brasses on them are perfect. The grave-stone over Sir Edward Filmer, who died in 1629, within the altar rails, is very curious, having an entire sheet of copper over it, with the portraits of himself, his wife, and his numberous issue, engraved on it, and their names respectively over them, and the coats of arms and quarterings, belonging to him and his wife, at the corners of it. There is a neat bust in white marble of the late Sir Edward Filmer, bart. who died in 1755, with an inscription to his memory against the wall, over the pew where the family sit.
The church of Sutton was antiently part of the possessions of the priory of Leeds, to which it was appropraited, and the duty of it was first served by a chaplain, appointed by the prior and convent, at whose request it was afterwards united to the adjoining church of Town Sutton, of their patronage likewise, to which it has been ever since esteemed as a chapel.
On the dissolution of the priory of Leeds, in the reign of Henry VIII the parsonage appropriate of East Sutton came into the hands of the crown, as did likewise the patronage of the church of Town Sutton, with the chapel of East Sutton annexed, where they did not continue long; for the king settled them both, in his 32d year, on his new-erected dean and chapter of Rochester, with whom they remain at this time.
The parsonage has been for many years held in lease, by the family of Filmer; the present interest of the lease being vested in Sir Beversham Filmer, baronet.
The vicar of Town Sutton serves the cure of this church, as a chapel annexed to it, and as such is entitled to the vicarial profits of this parish, in right of his vicarage.
The church of East Sutton is not valued in the king's books, being included in that of Town Sutton.
¶On the abolition of deans and chapters, after the death of Charles I. this parsonage was surveyed in 1649, when it was returned, that the parsonage, late belonging to the late dean and chapter of Rochester, consisted of a parsonage house, and all tithes, and the glebe land lying together, containing forty-three acres and two roods, at the improved rent of seventy-five pounds; also seventeen acres more of glebe land, let at fifteen pounds per annum; all which premises were let by the late dean and chapter, anno 13 Charles I. to Sir Robert Filmer, for twenty-one years, at the yearly rent of ten pounds, and of two good capons, or four shillings in money, so there remained a clear rent of 79l. 16s. per annum; and that the lessee repaired the chancel of this church; out of which lease the vicarage was excepted, then worth twenty pounds per annum.
The lessee of the parsonage claims the tithes of all corn, hops, and grass, growing in this parish. In the reign of queen Anne these tithes were estimated at upwards of eighty pounds per annum; besides which, the glebe land belonging to it, was let at fifty pounds per annum.
In 1648 the communicants of this parish were one hundred and thirty.
The small tithes and other emoluments of this benefice, in the beginning of queen Anne's reign were estimated at eighteen pounds per annum, there being no glebe land belonging to it.
The land given and devised by Stephen Pende and George Ulmer, as before mentioned, was worth ten pounds per annum, in the above reign, and seems to have been intended for the better performance of divine service in this church every Sunday; before which, the vicar of Sutton Valence used to perform it here but once or twice in a quarter of a year. From the year 1648 to 1680, the parishioners bestowed the above income on the repairs of the church; but since that time, the vicar of Sutton Valence has generally had it, in consequence of which, he preaches here and at Sutton Valence alternately on a Sunday, morning and afternoon.
A list of the vicars of Sutton Valence, or Town Sutton, with this chapel of East Sutton annexed, has been already given in the description of that parish.