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For the first step, you will need a 5mm socket, a ratchet, and a really long extension (I used two extensions....I believe one was a 3" and the other was 6").
It is tough to tell from the angle of this photo, but this little release is located near the front of the headlamp assembly, toward the bottom. I would recommend using a flashlight and looking for the small lock printed just above the release.
See the two little white lock diagrams? You should be able to figure out what to do by looking at the diagram.....turn the bolt 90 degrees in the anticlockwise direction. You should notice that the headlamp assembly wiggled a bit as you turned the bolt. ( if you were paying attention)
Part of a "How-To" set.
....once you have removed the air box, you should be able to locate this shiny silver lever at the rear of the headlamp assembly.....press it down and....viola!
Here's where I should probably extend a word of caution. Be prepared for the whole headlamp assembly to magically pop out of the car whenever you press this little lever. Mine came out so easily that I almost didn't have time to reach up there and catch it before it hit the cement. Maybe have someone stand in front of the car and wear a catcher's mitt.........maybe prepare a landing pad of pillows......maybe build yourself some Rube Goldberg type of headlamp assembly catching device, just don't allow that assembly to hit the ground and crack like an acorn. That would probably ruin your day. (even more than this process already has)
If, perchance, your headlamp assembly doesn't automatically eject itself onto the ground, you can give it a nudge near the top where you see the metal clasp that holds the bulb wiring cover to the assembly. Then it should surely fall out.
Part of a "How-To" set.
by loosening the clamp on the throttle body end of the air intake piping, you will be able to rotate the pipe a little to give yourself more room to remove the air filter housing.....which ,at this point, should come right out. Grab the housing and pull it slightly to the left, then wiggle it around until you figure out a way to get it out. ;-)
Part of a "How-To" set.
Sorry for the lighting problem, but you can see the socket-extension-ratchet set-up I used to get to that little 5mm bolt.
You might be able to tell that I have the socket pointing in the general direction of the bolt.......for those of you who might need a little help finding it. ;-)
Part of a "How-To" set.
You will need a 10mm socket and a ratchet. You might not even need any extensions to get this one.....I still had the extensions on there from the other bolt.
Part of a "How-To" set.
you are going to need to unplug the sensor on the air filter housing in order to remove the housing from the car.
Part of a "How-To" set.
You could probably just undo the filer housing and lay it over on top of the motor without removing this connector, but it comes undone rather easily and it's not much work.
This is what it will look like with the headlamp assembly removed.
......Now...........let me show you how we got to this point.
Part of a "How-To" set.
Now that you have the front latch unlocked, you need to gain access to the rear latch.
That's a bit easier said than done when space underneath the hood is at such a premium. You might be able to skip this step if you can get to (or even see) the rear lock, but I decided to just remove the air filter housing.....really....it's not that difficult.
You will need a 10mm socket, ratchet, and some long extensions....maybe 8 to 10" of extensions......although you might get by with a bit less in a pinch.
Part of a "How-To" set.
the headlamp assembly slides on tracks on each side of this bucket.......you can see the track....it travels forward from the bottom corner of the wiring connector.
Part of a "How-To" set.
In order to remove the air filter housing from the car, you will need to remove the air intake pipe.
Go find a suitably big pair of pliers. I know you've got some somewhere.
Squeeze the clamp....while you've got it squeezed.....slide it down the pipe away from the air filter housing...then let go of it. It will just clamp down on a portion of hose.....it's not going to hurt anything, and it's much easier than fooling with trying to remove the clamp and re-install it later
Part of a "How-To" set.
you can kind of see how I am pushing the keeper down and over to latch it
.....and as they say in the "Haynes" manuals....."Installation is the reverse of removal"
Plug the harness into the new bulb
Re-install the wiring cover and flip the wire latch back down to lock it.
Slide the headlamp assembly back into its receptacle. (make sure you line it up properly....there are tabs on either side that you need to line up in order for it to slide in properly.....if it isn't going back in smoothly, you've probably not gotten the tabs in the correct position.
The rear lock will latch automatically, but you will need those long extensions and the 5mm socket to turn the tiny bolt 90 degrees in a clockwise position to lock the front. You should be able to notice the assembly "tighten up" when it has been locked properly.
Time to re-install the air filter housing. You should notice that the air filter housing has a round locator pin on the same side as the inlet (not the big opening where we took the clamp off a while ago....the smaller opening on the opposite side where the fresh air enters the box.) Line up the pin with its corresponding hole and also ensure that the fresh-air intake lines up....then just push the assembly toward the right until you feel it pop into its spot (I know that's kind of vague, but you'll know it when you feel it)
Go ahead and plug the sensor wiring harness back into the sensor.
Push the air intake pipe back onto the throttle body on one end and the air filter housing on the other end. Now take those pliers and squeeze the clamps....then slide them back where they were originally and release the them.
Take those two 10mm bolts that you were wondering what to do with and put them back into the air filter housing where you got them from.
Where did this black plastic piece come from? Oh yeah....it is the cover for the battery. Probably should put that back, even though I'm not entirely convinced that it has a legitimate purpose.
Close the hood, stick the key in the ignition, turn the headlights on and hope for the best.......ideally, the lights should work. If not, call you friendly local VW dealer and tell them to fix the piece of junk.
Part of a "How-To" set.
the sliver part that I'm pointing at is what is connected to that 5mm bolt from a few minutes ago.
Notice how it has a bend in it? Not that you could see it before, but when the bolt is turned in the lock position, that bend points toward the rear of the car. In this photo, the bend is pointing down, which depresses the small metal band that it intersects. That small metal band is the actual latch that locks the front of the headlamp assembly into this receptacle.
Part of a "How-To" set.
Here is what the rear of your headlamp assembly should look like once you have it removed.
Part of a "How-To" set.
sorry for the really blurry pic.
This is a shot of the underside of the headlamp assembly near the front latch.
Part of a "How-To" set.
The rear lock is a much simpler system. It is just a simple metal strap that springs up in order to lock the headlamp assembly in place. When you depress that small metal lever, it, in turn, presses this metal strap to release the rear of the headlamp assembly.
(Just don't press it too hard.....it doesn't really look very sturdy)
Part of a "How-To" set.
again.....sorry for the blurry shot.
This is another shot of the underside of the headlamp assembly.
Part of a "How-To" set.
another metal spring clip holds the bulb into the housing.
You will need to press this one down and over to one side in order to release it.
Once the keeper is released.......remove the bulb. Once you pull the old bulb out, there will normally be visible evidence that the bulb is blown.......blackened glass, broken filament....etc... Every once in a while, though.....you might not be able to tell that the bulb is blown just by visual inspection.
Just to be on the safe side.....I try to keep my hands off the globe of the bulb and then I place the bulb in a safe place until I install the new one and ensure that it works properly.....then if the new one does work....I trash it. I dispose of it properly, of course. ;-)
Part of a "How-To" set.
you will need to flip the metal latch upward to release the cover.
Once you release this latch, the cover will just about fall off in your hand......or the floor, or down into the engine compartment of the car....usually not a good place, so plan ahead. ;-)
Part of a "How-To" set.
Here's what you've got once the cover falls off.
Why couldn't they design the car so that you could get to this without having to go through all of the other steps?
Part of a "How-To" set.
Depending on which bulb you are replacing, remove the corresponding wiring harness.
What did you say? You don't know which one is the one that doesn't work? Well....you could just replace both of the bulbs since you already have the assembly removed.....and you are saving a ton of cash by doing this job yourself........or you could be cheap like me and just replace the one that is blown.
In my case, the low-beam was blown (not surprising since those lights appear to also serve as the DRL)
On these Beetles, the top bulb (the one that looks kind of like an eyeball from the outside of the assembly) is the low-beam......which leaves the lower bulb as the high-beam.
I know, I know....it does seem a bit counter intuitive for the lower bulb to be the high beam and the higher bulb to be the low beam........don't blame me.....I didn't design the bloody thing. ;-) German engineering for ya.
Part of a "How-To" set.
Time for the fun part........putting the new one in!
(FYI.......I've heard that dealerships sometimes charge in excess of $100 for headlamp replacement..........well, I bought this one at the local NAPA for about five bucks. Sure, this bulb is made in Korea, but I can replace it 20 times myself for what the dealer charges for one to be replaced.)
Part of a "How-To" set.
Always, Always, Always hold a halogen bulb by the base ONLY!!!
(unless you are really enjoying this headlamp replacement experience and would like to do it again and again and again.)
You see, these bulbs operate at high temperatures and the slightest of oil from your skin or other sources can cause the light to fail. So ......U Can't Touch This!
........if you do have a momentary lack of reasoning and decide to touch the glass part......just get a clean, dry, lint free cloth and gently wipe the glass clean. It should be as good as new.
Part of a "How-To" set.
it has a tab, so it will only go one way.
This part 'aint rocket science, people.
Part of a "How-To" set.
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