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I see the same style with my artist friends tough ;-)

At ESPE Robotics Laboratory, Quito, Ecuador.

more information to come later about that :-)

From a broken LED traffic signal

Part of a lot of dirty cameras from a secondhand store.

My Olympus OM-2sp. I picked this up a couple of years ago, It was never used and is still in LN condition. I love this camera. Great 1.8 lens, fantastic exposure.

No, I wasn't the one who won it - I knew this one was going to go far beyond what I was willing to pay no matter how big and cool the tubes are.

 

I'd mentioned this in this picture's description. There are some pictures of this type of tube at this website.

 

This auction was a hoot. More fun than a football game!

Bitbanging composite video isn't easy

 

The shutter snapped as pin 3 was finishing and pin 4 was lighting up.

This Kmart opened Halloween 1994 as a Super Kmart then in 2010 the deli, meat, and bakery sections were removed and became a normal Kmart

Love that crackle finish!

The X maschine

 

The 2007 Alpine demo car is “eXperience”. The name represents the concept of Alpine´s expertise in iPod connectivity and most speedy transmission.

Featuring 6 PDX amplifiers, 2 Type-X subwoofers, 9 Type-X speakers, The PXA-H701 and the iDA-X001 (plus a lot more!), this high-end demo car showcases just how fantastic Alpine´s “Type X” products are.

 

One of the main highlights is the centre position for the driver, to enjoy the music at it´s best. The “eXperience” shows an elegant and sleekl designed demo car.

 

It took the Alpine installers 2 ½ months to create such an amazing demo car.

Asanuma-S 135mm 2.8 Lens 2

This HDMI to DVI cable is especially designed for Hi Definition Video. For home theatre applications and professional home theatre installations. This cable is made for the home theatre enthusiast in mind using the highest quality cabling, jacket materials and 24k gold plating for better connectivity, longevity and signal strength.

Premium Quality Cable.

Connects components with HDMI V 1.3 and DVI interface to each other.

Compatible with all HDTV formats including 720p, 1080i, 1080p, 480i and 480p.

24K Gold plated HDMI Male to DVI Male connectors.

Cable length 2.1m

5Gbps bandwidth.

Backwards HDMI compatibility with existing DVI products.

Brand New in sealed poly bag

12 Month Manufacturer Warranty

30 Day Satisfaction Guarantee

Free upgrade to registered post for all purchases over $60 to ensure your items arrive safely.

 

Purchase this item at www.electronicswarehouse.com.au

Random camera PCB I've been thinking about recently... I got a lot of these cameras broken from ebay a while back - Have been planning to reuse the sensors (they're rather nice, ~8mp-ish I think), but need to do some detective / reverse engineering work. Not something I have time for in the very near future.

as seen at the local electronics recycling drop. I love the local electronics recycling drop!

Almost ready to test.

 

Input is 50V p-p AC from a wall wart. Output is ±1–24VDC (trimmer adjusted) regulated by a standard LM317/LM337 circuit.

 

Pins underneath meet the pair of rails on a standard breadboard.

 

Both regulator circuits were tested on the breadboard first, so I'm just looking for soldering and wiring errors. And I need to add the 2 x Cadj capacitors and one diode to feed the negative smoothing capacitor.

 

The Adafruit protoboard is only just big enough…

Photos from my rebuild of the Stealth USB Capslocker, using a laser resist etching process. Full writeup available here: macetech.com/blog/node/81

Caught in the headlights at the electronics shop. Photo by Galen..

This Kmart opened Halloween 1994 as a Super Kmart then in 2010 the deli, meat, and bakery sections were removed and became a normal Kmart

Guts of the Studio Electronics Code

>>>>>>>>>> click the "ALL SIZES" magnifying glass to see a bigger pic <<<<<<<<<

 

PARTS

 

• 2 or 3 12-position rotary switches (or 10-position, whatever you can get)

• 2 pin or banana jacks (to match your test leads)

• resistor assortment from 5 ohms to 1M or greater; gold bands (5% tolerance) are better than silver bands (10% tolerance).

• project box

 

INSTRUCTIONS

 

1- Get a box and drill holes for mounting two or three 12-position rotary switches. Drill holes also for the two jacks.

 

2- Mount the switches and the jacks; label switch positions with corresponding resistor values.

 

3- Follow this diagram and solder resistors directly to the lugs of the rotary switches.

 

NOTE: If you solder the resistors so their unsoldered leads extend the opposite direction of the switch's shaft, these leads can be gathered together and soldered at once, connected to the bus wire terminating in point "A".

 

• The first switch would provide the lowest resistance, the next would provide mid-range resistors, and the final switch would be wired to the resistors with the greatest resistance.

 

• As seen, the 12th lug of the depicted switch connects to the next switch in the array. Naturally, the final switch in the array would have its 12th lug connected to the final resistor in the matrix.

 

PANEL

 

To mark the panel for the resistor values:

 

1- Turn the mounted switches to position "1" (doesn't matter at all how you orient the switches, just turn them to their lowest resistor settings).

 

2- Place knobs loosely on shafts and turn their pointers to wherever you want "1" (your lowest resistor value) to be located around the dial (near top or bottom of dial, usually).

 

3- Once all pointers are angled to this position, tighten their set screws to keep them in place.

 

4- With your marker, put dots where the pointers point as you click them all around their orbits.

 

5- Label these dots with the corresponding resistor values. Position "12" can be marked with an arrow pointing to the next switch.

 

USAGE

 

1- Set all rotary switches to "12" for starting position. This will provide the greatest resistance available (this is safest on the circuit). Plug your test leads in.

 

2- Begin turning the LAST dial downward and observe the response of the circuit (LED brightness, audio output, circuit clocking - whatever you're after).

 

3- When you get to position "1" on this switch, turn the next rotary switch to position "11" to continue the resistance decrease, and so on until you reach the resistance value desired.

 

4- Observe the resistance the dial is pointing to; grab another resistor of the same value, and your green LED will never again scare you with that ember-like, off-yellow, over-voltage, "Seeya in LED Halvala" glow.

A pair of cufflinks made out of some spare ICs. They were suprisingly quick and easy to make.

 

Instructions on Photo 1.

My solder joints are looking a lot better now that I have a good soldering iron (Weller 25W) and smaller solder (0.32mm versus 1mm).

Taken on macro mode, under natural and green light, and then monkeyed with in software. A selection of Amperex 7534, 6DJ8 / ECC88 and 12AX7, Telefunken and Amperex EL86 / 6CW5, and General Electric 6CX8. Most are OEM branded by Hewlett-Packard.

No, this is not the Google Earth view of some city. It is a macro of a silicon wafer containing VLSI circuits. Each of those blocks is about a centimetre on each side and contains numerous transistors.

Thanks a lot to my friend in our university's VLSI lab for allowing me to take this photo.

A close up of an old motherboard of mine taken with a 50mm prime and a reversing ring to get an extra magnified macro.

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