smillsishere
May 19, 2014 Clean Up Your Dog Mess 2 (Fuji Pro 400H test)
Pentax MX
Fuji Pro 400H
After trying to emulate this film in my previous Fuji x100S shots, I wanted to use the real thing. Out of 36 exposures, only a few shots were useable due to lazy composition (I rushed to get my first colour film developed) and an incorrect approach to long exposure for my last 16 shots. However, all of these shots, the bracketing of differing exposures and the use of my Fuji x100S as a light meter allowed me to learn from my mistakes, meaning I hope to be able to expose more accurately in future.
Because I learned Ansel Adams' Zone System through this process, I now know how to meter for shadows, mid-tones and highlights and which film I can fit a certain amount of dynamic range. For example, I can use the full 7 zones to capture shadow and highlight detail of a reasonably dynamic scene on colour negative. Theoretically, I also know how to capture a less dynamic scene on something like Velvia. My next project is to use Velvia to prove this. If I know to place shadows at -2 stops, middle tones at 0 to 1 stops and lights and highlights at 2 stops, I should be able to successfully measure a scene with my Fuji x100S (of course, the Fuji x100S can not meter for ISO 50, so I'll meter at ISO 200 and increase the MX's shutter speed by -2 stops). If anyone reads this, I could do with any corrections here.
On my long exposure low light shots, I spot metered for the darkest shadows using my x100S. Of course, that meant those shadows were set at Zone V (0 stops, normal exposure), and when I transfered the x100S' aperture and shutter settings to the Pentax, the film was overexposed (shadows should sit at Zone III, -2 stops). I also decided to expose by another whole stop due to poor understanding of Fuji Pro's reciprocity curve. The x100S gave me a 4 second shutter speed, so I dialled in 8 seconds. It appears that Fuji Pro does not suffer reciprocity failure until much later (anyone know how long exactly?) So, I should have exposed for 1 second to pull those shadows to -2 stops (1 second is half of 2, 2 is half of 4 - two whole stops). I'm also writing this as clearly as I can in case any other beginners are reading. I am a total beginner with film but love the learning process!
May 19, 2014 Clean Up Your Dog Mess 2 (Fuji Pro 400H test)
Pentax MX
Fuji Pro 400H
After trying to emulate this film in my previous Fuji x100S shots, I wanted to use the real thing. Out of 36 exposures, only a few shots were useable due to lazy composition (I rushed to get my first colour film developed) and an incorrect approach to long exposure for my last 16 shots. However, all of these shots, the bracketing of differing exposures and the use of my Fuji x100S as a light meter allowed me to learn from my mistakes, meaning I hope to be able to expose more accurately in future.
Because I learned Ansel Adams' Zone System through this process, I now know how to meter for shadows, mid-tones and highlights and which film I can fit a certain amount of dynamic range. For example, I can use the full 7 zones to capture shadow and highlight detail of a reasonably dynamic scene on colour negative. Theoretically, I also know how to capture a less dynamic scene on something like Velvia. My next project is to use Velvia to prove this. If I know to place shadows at -2 stops, middle tones at 0 to 1 stops and lights and highlights at 2 stops, I should be able to successfully measure a scene with my Fuji x100S (of course, the Fuji x100S can not meter for ISO 50, so I'll meter at ISO 200 and increase the MX's shutter speed by -2 stops). If anyone reads this, I could do with any corrections here.
On my long exposure low light shots, I spot metered for the darkest shadows using my x100S. Of course, that meant those shadows were set at Zone V (0 stops, normal exposure), and when I transfered the x100S' aperture and shutter settings to the Pentax, the film was overexposed (shadows should sit at Zone III, -2 stops). I also decided to expose by another whole stop due to poor understanding of Fuji Pro's reciprocity curve. The x100S gave me a 4 second shutter speed, so I dialled in 8 seconds. It appears that Fuji Pro does not suffer reciprocity failure until much later (anyone know how long exactly?) So, I should have exposed for 1 second to pull those shadows to -2 stops (1 second is half of 2, 2 is half of 4 - two whole stops). I'm also writing this as clearly as I can in case any other beginners are reading. I am a total beginner with film but love the learning process!