John Whittome watching Christ greeting Mary Ann and Edmund Whittome at the Gates of Heaven
St Wendreda, March, Cambridgeshire
The church sits in the medieval village centre, more than a mile south of the modern town centre at the Nene crossing. Architecturally a fabulous church, one of the most harmonious and exciting exteriors of any of the large Cambridgeshire churches, with grotesque-bedecked aisles and clerestories leading to an elegant spire reaching to heaven.
You step into the south door past the 'Church Open ' sign (curiously, the north door is locked and has a keyholder notice!) into what appears at first to be a large Victorianised interior, and then you look up. March has one of the four best angel roofs in England along with Knapton, Woolpit and Needham Market. Pevsner thought it the very best one of all. Betjeman thought it was 'worth cycling 40 miles into a head wind to see', and I felt a little guilty for only having done a little over half of that to get here, and not all of it into the wind. Inevitably, the architecture and the roof are so spectacular they put everything else here rather in the shade. There is some good late 19th/early 20th Century glass, but that isn't what sticks in the memory.
Curiously satisfied despite having visited six locked-no-keyholder churches before I got to this one, I headed north towards the town centre and the equally open church of St Peter. March is one of my favourite small East Anglian towns. it's a proper place, remote enough to have far more life to its centre than its population of barely 20,000 might suggest, but not stuffily self-important in the manner of nearby Wisbech and Ely.
There are no historical buildings other than the parish church. March was an industrial town, and only exists in its current form because of the coming of the railways.
The population at the time of the 1851 census was just 4,000. But March became an important railway junction, with two railway companies' lines from Cambridge, Ipswich, Norwich, Lincoln and Kings Lynn meeting and merging here. There was a massive house building programme of terraced streets to accommodate the railway workers, and the great majority of March's men worked for the Great Eastern Railway and the Great Northern Railway by the end of the 19th Century. March still has the character of a railway town today.
In the 20th Century, March became the centre for the distribution of the agricultural produce of Cambridgeshire, Lincolnshire and west Norfolk to the London markets, the industrial cities of the North and the east coast ports. The marshalling yards at Whitemoor to the north of the town were the largest in Europe. March was a typical example of why railway stations in East Anglia are almost always a trek from the town centre, because the system grew to serve agricultural produce rather than passengers.
From the First World War until 1965, March was the county town of the former county of the Isle of Ely, before it was fused with Cambridgeshire to form a single unit. March reached its highest point of importance during the Second World War, when the marshalling yards were used by the Army and the RAF as the centre of its military distribution network. But changing patterns of agriculture after the war, and especially of distribution, sounded the death knell for March.
The rise of easy road transport, and the thuggish cuts brought about by the Beeching Commission, meant that rail freight was no longer able to compete. Privatisation came, and by the early 1990s the marshalling yards were closed. They were extensively built on, most famously by the government for HM Prison Whitemoor, now Britain's main top security gaol for terrorists and full life sentence servers. There is also a vast industrial and commercial estate, ironically home to major road distribution firms, although Network Rail also have their supply depot here.
March town centre is one of England's best preserved examples of a Victorian urban heart. Very little has been done to disturb the late 19th Century architecture and street pattern. The High Street passes the large town square, crosses the Nene and meets Station Street in a perfect busy example of what those sleeves-rolled-up Victorians thought all small towns might be like one day.
John Whittome watching Christ greeting Mary Ann and Edmund Whittome at the Gates of Heaven
St Wendreda, March, Cambridgeshire
The church sits in the medieval village centre, more than a mile south of the modern town centre at the Nene crossing. Architecturally a fabulous church, one of the most harmonious and exciting exteriors of any of the large Cambridgeshire churches, with grotesque-bedecked aisles and clerestories leading to an elegant spire reaching to heaven.
You step into the south door past the 'Church Open ' sign (curiously, the north door is locked and has a keyholder notice!) into what appears at first to be a large Victorianised interior, and then you look up. March has one of the four best angel roofs in England along with Knapton, Woolpit and Needham Market. Pevsner thought it the very best one of all. Betjeman thought it was 'worth cycling 40 miles into a head wind to see', and I felt a little guilty for only having done a little over half of that to get here, and not all of it into the wind. Inevitably, the architecture and the roof are so spectacular they put everything else here rather in the shade. There is some good late 19th/early 20th Century glass, but that isn't what sticks in the memory.
Curiously satisfied despite having visited six locked-no-keyholder churches before I got to this one, I headed north towards the town centre and the equally open church of St Peter. March is one of my favourite small East Anglian towns. it's a proper place, remote enough to have far more life to its centre than its population of barely 20,000 might suggest, but not stuffily self-important in the manner of nearby Wisbech and Ely.
There are no historical buildings other than the parish church. March was an industrial town, and only exists in its current form because of the coming of the railways.
The population at the time of the 1851 census was just 4,000. But March became an important railway junction, with two railway companies' lines from Cambridge, Ipswich, Norwich, Lincoln and Kings Lynn meeting and merging here. There was a massive house building programme of terraced streets to accommodate the railway workers, and the great majority of March's men worked for the Great Eastern Railway and the Great Northern Railway by the end of the 19th Century. March still has the character of a railway town today.
In the 20th Century, March became the centre for the distribution of the agricultural produce of Cambridgeshire, Lincolnshire and west Norfolk to the London markets, the industrial cities of the North and the east coast ports. The marshalling yards at Whitemoor to the north of the town were the largest in Europe. March was a typical example of why railway stations in East Anglia are almost always a trek from the town centre, because the system grew to serve agricultural produce rather than passengers.
From the First World War until 1965, March was the county town of the former county of the Isle of Ely, before it was fused with Cambridgeshire to form a single unit. March reached its highest point of importance during the Second World War, when the marshalling yards were used by the Army and the RAF as the centre of its military distribution network. But changing patterns of agriculture after the war, and especially of distribution, sounded the death knell for March.
The rise of easy road transport, and the thuggish cuts brought about by the Beeching Commission, meant that rail freight was no longer able to compete. Privatisation came, and by the early 1990s the marshalling yards were closed. They were extensively built on, most famously by the government for HM Prison Whitemoor, now Britain's main top security gaol for terrorists and full life sentence servers. There is also a vast industrial and commercial estate, ironically home to major road distribution firms, although Network Rail also have their supply depot here.
March town centre is one of England's best preserved examples of a Victorian urban heart. Very little has been done to disturb the late 19th Century architecture and street pattern. The High Street passes the large town square, crosses the Nene and meets Station Street in a perfect busy example of what those sleeves-rolled-up Victorians thought all small towns might be like one day.