linux-works
spdif switch proto completed
Inside view of the completed digital audio switch.
I'm pleased with the end result; the red plastic window is press-fit and an exact fit. the front button is soft touch and the input can be controlled with this button or via an IR remote. I avoided any screws or fasteners visible from the front panel (although the top panel is designed for easy removal and does have visible screws).
all in all, it was about a week's work to do the CAD, try it out with paper models and then finally go to laser cut plastic.
(the right-most LED block looks like its set back too far, but its not; that's just a photo angle problem. both LED strips are pressed right up against the red plastic filter and you don't see any unlit segments, day or night, either).
the arduino controls the thing and power also comes in via the usb rear port (for both programming and power to the entire box).
its not easily visible, but there's an 8pin attiny85 in there, too; its doing IR receive duty and sending ascii strings over a softserial port to the main arduino. the main arduino is too busy with freq counting (for the spdif bitrate display) to also do IR capture and decode; so the little 8pin chip will do that, instead. its my first time using the attiny in the arduino environment (flashing it from a spare arduino, as well).
there is a small red slide switch on the green board. since I'm using the hardware uart, you need to be able to remove the 'other device' hanging off of it when you download firmware over usb (which uses the UART on the arduino). so, switch open to update firmware, switch closed for runtime. if you forget and leave the switch connected, you will get nothing but timeouts when you try to flash the device.
in the far background is my HTPC, which has an optical-out for spdif (onboard realtek audio). it works fine up to 96k. the pc is a nice fanless i7 (haswell chip with heatpipes to keep it 100% fanless).
spdif switch proto completed
Inside view of the completed digital audio switch.
I'm pleased with the end result; the red plastic window is press-fit and an exact fit. the front button is soft touch and the input can be controlled with this button or via an IR remote. I avoided any screws or fasteners visible from the front panel (although the top panel is designed for easy removal and does have visible screws).
all in all, it was about a week's work to do the CAD, try it out with paper models and then finally go to laser cut plastic.
(the right-most LED block looks like its set back too far, but its not; that's just a photo angle problem. both LED strips are pressed right up against the red plastic filter and you don't see any unlit segments, day or night, either).
the arduino controls the thing and power also comes in via the usb rear port (for both programming and power to the entire box).
its not easily visible, but there's an 8pin attiny85 in there, too; its doing IR receive duty and sending ascii strings over a softserial port to the main arduino. the main arduino is too busy with freq counting (for the spdif bitrate display) to also do IR capture and decode; so the little 8pin chip will do that, instead. its my first time using the attiny in the arduino environment (flashing it from a spare arduino, as well).
there is a small red slide switch on the green board. since I'm using the hardware uart, you need to be able to remove the 'other device' hanging off of it when you download firmware over usb (which uses the UART on the arduino). so, switch open to update firmware, switch closed for runtime. if you forget and leave the switch connected, you will get nothing but timeouts when you try to flash the device.
in the far background is my HTPC, which has an optical-out for spdif (onboard realtek audio). it works fine up to 96k. the pc is a nice fanless i7 (haswell chip with heatpipes to keep it 100% fanless).