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Godox Dual ETTL cords from a single Phottix Odin TTL (ETTL & Remote Manual) Radio receiver/trigger for twinned Canon 550Ex Speedlites - and - External Flashmetering
Found a second 'Dual' TTL cord that seems to work for my 2 identical twin Canon 550Exs ganged together and driven by a single Phottix Odin ETTL & Remotely adjusted M radio receiver. (Replaced photo, 3-02-2013)
This setup offers both ETTL and remotely adjusted Manual flash, HSS and SCS too, controlling and triggering 2 Speedlites while saving on a TTL receiver unit. The two Canon 550Exs behave as one, the Group is determined on the single Rx - so, either twice* the power/range or quicker recycling or lower iso on the camera. One of the flash-heads is +180 - usually I splay the heads to better fill the reflective brolly. These Satin White reflective umbrellas are a favourite with twinned Speedlite pairs. Of my Speedlites, I find gangs of two (two cords) so useful that I leave a pair of 550Exs more or less permanently setup like this on a small board.
Previously I was doing this with the 'Ishoot' brand Dual TTL cord but I've found a second cord, this one from Godox, that offers this functionality, at least with identical twin 550Exs (£130 each!), with the Odin TCU (current firmware) on either a 20D or a 7D. As per the instructions, always switch on the more peripheral device(s) first and the more central device second - same for switching off. (Several brands of Dual TTL cords do not seem to work with this configuration - and - other Ex Speedlites may not either. I've not had any luck with 2 580ExIIs, for instance.)
Nikon guys & gals: no personal experience but the limited correspondance I've had, suggests that from Nikon bodies, and therefore from Odin for Nikon Rxs, these 'Dual' type TTL cords, basically don't work. If you prove that wrong, be sure to let me know! Cheers.
On these small mounting boards, I strap the two units down onto the non-slip matting - now I add a 3mm piece of corrugated plastic sheet between the two - the back edge is given extra padding, to keep it easy to reach the 'on/off' switches. I don't need to see their screens - everything is setup from the Odin TCU. This twinned configuration also still fits my standard Ebay 'Easyfold' softboxes (designed for single speedlites(!)) and it keeps the external battery ports accessible.
If you are one Rx short, you can use this for a couple of opposed white background M lights. Just link in 2 TTL extension leads, one on each arm, and it's very easy to get perfect white without overblowing things, adjusting everything right from the camera position.
This cord is cheaper than the 'Ishoot' type! I'm c 50:50 M to TTL, frequently both mixed together, say ETTL for the subject & M for hair & background - and - TTL has moved on, it's now super predictable - just clock tone & reflectivity, dial your FEC and you're there. In fact, M flash is for times I don't want to be 'right': slightly blown white backgrounds/moody under-exposure etcetc. So still like that remotely adjusted M flash - definitely.
Also, this 'Dual' TTL cord is available for Nikon! Warning: I am not recommending this dual twinning of Speedlights from a single Odin for Nikon receiver unit. It is unorthodox and probably will not be supported by either Phottix or Nikon. However, I have been using this twinned configuration since Nov 2011 - initially with the 'Ishoot' dual cord - without problems - not a single mis-fire.
*It's not quite an extra stop. This is because the Speedlite heads are splayed slightly, with the zoom setting at 24mm, giving noticeably better coverage within a white bounce umbrella, than a single Speedlite will ever deliver (I don't like omnibounce/stofen diffusors particularly). So you get a little less than a stop more, but very much prettier shadow transitions.
Notes on using an external incident light Flashmeter with an Odin unit controlling groups in M:
With current Firmware (Jan 2014), there are now two methods for doing this.
1) As per the latest Firmware documentation - "Test Button and Light Meters: Pressing the Test button on the transmitter will cause the flashes in A, B and C groups to fire simultaneously. Group(s) turned off will not fire. When the flashes in A, B and C groups are set to Manual (M) mode, pressing the Test button on the transmitter will cause the flashes (which are powered on and on the same channel as the transmitter) to fire an initial low-power pre-flash. The flashes will fire simultaneously at their set manual power levels 2.5s later. This feature allows for light meters to be used correctly."
2)When the Odin system is controlling Groups in M, it actually does it by hijacking the ETTL process. So although an FEL press has no role (from non-1D series bodies) in M flash under Canon Wireless, under Odin M flash, it does create early remote Pre-flashes. This means that you can discharge the remote pre-flashes early, with an FEL press, which creates an interval (default, 16 secs) in which you can ready the Flashmeter (cordless mode) and measure on a shutter button press.
That applies to Ex Speedlites attached to Odin Rxs. Depending on the Firmware in use, there may not be a redundant M pre-flash specifically from Mitros + Plus for Canon. So for Mitros + exclusively, you may not need an FEL press. In a mixed M environment the 'FEL press then meter on the shutter press' technique is just fine. You can meter by Group and/or globally.
It works really well!
My preference currently.
(The above applies to Canon - I'd be very interested to know if Nikon's FV lock basically does something pretty similar, and also allows external flashmetering after FVlock on a shutter button press. My guess, it will(?).)
(There are also a couple of other workarounds that are less satisfactory.)
Uber nerdy Pre-flash info, here - (but obviously unlike original Canon Wireless Light/IR type, using Odins means that all the outgoing master Pre- & Trigger-flash comms are now sent by Radio - whereas any Pre-flash - light - returns are still sensed TTL in-cam):
www.flickr.com/groups/canonwireless/discuss/7215762228821...
You were warned!
Edit: 2-8-13: This post refers to the original hardware version 'Odin for Canon'. I updated to firmware v1.2 c August 2012. It seems that Phottix migrated to hardware type 'Odin 1.5 for Canon' some time ago.
Edit: 20-09-13: With the Mitros+ (Mitros Plus) just announced, I guess a pair of those could be used without the Dual cords & external Odin Rx. Similar functionality and beans at about X3 the cost - but tempting!
Godox Dual ETTL cords from a single Phottix Odin TTL (ETTL & Remote Manual) Radio receiver/trigger for twinned Canon 550Ex Speedlites - and - External Flashmetering
Found a second 'Dual' TTL cord that seems to work for my 2 identical twin Canon 550Exs ganged together and driven by a single Phottix Odin ETTL & Remotely adjusted M radio receiver. (Replaced photo, 3-02-2013)
This setup offers both ETTL and remotely adjusted Manual flash, HSS and SCS too, controlling and triggering 2 Speedlites while saving on a TTL receiver unit. The two Canon 550Exs behave as one, the Group is determined on the single Rx - so, either twice* the power/range or quicker recycling or lower iso on the camera. One of the flash-heads is +180 - usually I splay the heads to better fill the reflective brolly. These Satin White reflective umbrellas are a favourite with twinned Speedlite pairs. Of my Speedlites, I find gangs of two (two cords) so useful that I leave a pair of 550Exs more or less permanently setup like this on a small board.
Previously I was doing this with the 'Ishoot' brand Dual TTL cord but I've found a second cord, this one from Godox, that offers this functionality, at least with identical twin 550Exs (£130 each!), with the Odin TCU (current firmware) on either a 20D or a 7D. As per the instructions, always switch on the more peripheral device(s) first and the more central device second - same for switching off. (Several brands of Dual TTL cords do not seem to work with this configuration - and - other Ex Speedlites may not either. I've not had any luck with 2 580ExIIs, for instance.)
Nikon guys & gals: no personal experience but the limited correspondance I've had, suggests that from Nikon bodies, and therefore from Odin for Nikon Rxs, these 'Dual' type TTL cords, basically don't work. If you prove that wrong, be sure to let me know! Cheers.
On these small mounting boards, I strap the two units down onto the non-slip matting - now I add a 3mm piece of corrugated plastic sheet between the two - the back edge is given extra padding, to keep it easy to reach the 'on/off' switches. I don't need to see their screens - everything is setup from the Odin TCU. This twinned configuration also still fits my standard Ebay 'Easyfold' softboxes (designed for single speedlites(!)) and it keeps the external battery ports accessible.
If you are one Rx short, you can use this for a couple of opposed white background M lights. Just link in 2 TTL extension leads, one on each arm, and it's very easy to get perfect white without overblowing things, adjusting everything right from the camera position.
This cord is cheaper than the 'Ishoot' type! I'm c 50:50 M to TTL, frequently both mixed together, say ETTL for the subject & M for hair & background - and - TTL has moved on, it's now super predictable - just clock tone & reflectivity, dial your FEC and you're there. In fact, M flash is for times I don't want to be 'right': slightly blown white backgrounds/moody under-exposure etcetc. So still like that remotely adjusted M flash - definitely.
Also, this 'Dual' TTL cord is available for Nikon! Warning: I am not recommending this dual twinning of Speedlights from a single Odin for Nikon receiver unit. It is unorthodox and probably will not be supported by either Phottix or Nikon. However, I have been using this twinned configuration since Nov 2011 - initially with the 'Ishoot' dual cord - without problems - not a single mis-fire.
*It's not quite an extra stop. This is because the Speedlite heads are splayed slightly, with the zoom setting at 24mm, giving noticeably better coverage within a white bounce umbrella, than a single Speedlite will ever deliver (I don't like omnibounce/stofen diffusors particularly). So you get a little less than a stop more, but very much prettier shadow transitions.
Notes on using an external incident light Flashmeter with an Odin unit controlling groups in M:
With current Firmware (Jan 2014), there are now two methods for doing this.
1) As per the latest Firmware documentation - "Test Button and Light Meters: Pressing the Test button on the transmitter will cause the flashes in A, B and C groups to fire simultaneously. Group(s) turned off will not fire. When the flashes in A, B and C groups are set to Manual (M) mode, pressing the Test button on the transmitter will cause the flashes (which are powered on and on the same channel as the transmitter) to fire an initial low-power pre-flash. The flashes will fire simultaneously at their set manual power levels 2.5s later. This feature allows for light meters to be used correctly."
2)When the Odin system is controlling Groups in M, it actually does it by hijacking the ETTL process. So although an FEL press has no role (from non-1D series bodies) in M flash under Canon Wireless, under Odin M flash, it does create early remote Pre-flashes. This means that you can discharge the remote pre-flashes early, with an FEL press, which creates an interval (default, 16 secs) in which you can ready the Flashmeter (cordless mode) and measure on a shutter button press.
That applies to Ex Speedlites attached to Odin Rxs. Depending on the Firmware in use, there may not be a redundant M pre-flash specifically from Mitros + Plus for Canon. So for Mitros + exclusively, you may not need an FEL press. In a mixed M environment the 'FEL press then meter on the shutter press' technique is just fine. You can meter by Group and/or globally.
It works really well!
My preference currently.
(The above applies to Canon - I'd be very interested to know if Nikon's FV lock basically does something pretty similar, and also allows external flashmetering after FVlock on a shutter button press. My guess, it will(?).)
(There are also a couple of other workarounds that are less satisfactory.)
Uber nerdy Pre-flash info, here - (but obviously unlike original Canon Wireless Light/IR type, using Odins means that all the outgoing master Pre- & Trigger-flash comms are now sent by Radio - whereas any Pre-flash - light - returns are still sensed TTL in-cam):
www.flickr.com/groups/canonwireless/discuss/7215762228821...
You were warned!
Edit: 2-8-13: This post refers to the original hardware version 'Odin for Canon'. I updated to firmware v1.2 c August 2012. It seems that Phottix migrated to hardware type 'Odin 1.5 for Canon' some time ago.
Edit: 20-09-13: With the Mitros+ (Mitros Plus) just announced, I guess a pair of those could be used without the Dual cords & external Odin Rx. Similar functionality and beans at about X3 the cost - but tempting!