147 "ALCHEMY" by Jensen Knives
147: I like to work as close to the drill bit as possible. My table only rises so high, so I’m going to raise my work up closer to the tip of the drill bit, by placing the bolster upon a precision 1”X2”X3” block. I'm again double checking to assure the table is square and level, and that all work surfaces are clean, so as to assure a perfect hole. The drilling of this hole is a critical process. I prefer to make smaller movements of the chuck when operating the depth lever on the drill press, so as not to cause any extra unnecessary movements or shaking of the machine. This is why it helps to rest work closer to the tip of the drill bit. Drilling into any material, especially Titanium requires even pressure, and above all patience. Proper drilling is done in small increments, backing the drill bit out, then going a little deeper into the material. Do not go full force in one motion all the way through the material, you are sure to wear out your tools, as well as potentially break a the drill bit off in your material. A broken drill bit stuck in your material could be a major problem, it is also extremely dangerous, imagine a sharp piece of metal flying in your face at high velocity. Remember eye protection! It’s better to be over cautious and take 15 minutes to drill a hole, rather than hurting yourself! Always use new sharp bits and cutting/cooling fluid as needed. It’s a good idea to use a respirator with cutting fluid. These holes will eventually be threaded for a 2-56 screw, so the drill bit to use here is a number 50. Drill bits come in regular, long and short lengths. I prefer the short bits, as they are more than adequate as far as flute length goes; rarely in knife making is any one hole to drill going to be over an inch deep. Also the shorter the drill bit, the more sturdy they are, which also helps eliminate wobble.
147 "ALCHEMY" by Jensen Knives
147: I like to work as close to the drill bit as possible. My table only rises so high, so I’m going to raise my work up closer to the tip of the drill bit, by placing the bolster upon a precision 1”X2”X3” block. I'm again double checking to assure the table is square and level, and that all work surfaces are clean, so as to assure a perfect hole. The drilling of this hole is a critical process. I prefer to make smaller movements of the chuck when operating the depth lever on the drill press, so as not to cause any extra unnecessary movements or shaking of the machine. This is why it helps to rest work closer to the tip of the drill bit. Drilling into any material, especially Titanium requires even pressure, and above all patience. Proper drilling is done in small increments, backing the drill bit out, then going a little deeper into the material. Do not go full force in one motion all the way through the material, you are sure to wear out your tools, as well as potentially break a the drill bit off in your material. A broken drill bit stuck in your material could be a major problem, it is also extremely dangerous, imagine a sharp piece of metal flying in your face at high velocity. Remember eye protection! It’s better to be over cautious and take 15 minutes to drill a hole, rather than hurting yourself! Always use new sharp bits and cutting/cooling fluid as needed. It’s a good idea to use a respirator with cutting fluid. These holes will eventually be threaded for a 2-56 screw, so the drill bit to use here is a number 50. Drill bits come in regular, long and short lengths. I prefer the short bits, as they are more than adequate as far as flute length goes; rarely in knife making is any one hole to drill going to be over an inch deep. Also the shorter the drill bit, the more sturdy they are, which also helps eliminate wobble.