180 "ALCHEMY" by Jensen Knives
180: On a 1x30 belt grinder I’m going to start very carefully removing the excess bolster material along the top, checking it periodically to see how close I’m getting to the frame. I’m using this belt grinder, as opposed to the Burr King setup, as it’s smaller and I can get in a little tighter to the area I’m working on.
To make room for the clamp to clear the table, I’m again using a 1”X2”X3” precision block to lift the work, while still keeping it square to the belt. This is a little precarious here, as I’m only using one block on the far left side, under the blade. There is not enough room on the worktable for two blocks, but most importantly the two areas that the frame could rest on, are on two different planes. The handle area has an additional 60 thousands thickness on each side, so it is wider than the blade. Be especially careful not to tilt the handle area, keeping the blade tight and flat on the block. A little slip and the grinding won’t come out square.
180 "ALCHEMY" by Jensen Knives
180: On a 1x30 belt grinder I’m going to start very carefully removing the excess bolster material along the top, checking it periodically to see how close I’m getting to the frame. I’m using this belt grinder, as opposed to the Burr King setup, as it’s smaller and I can get in a little tighter to the area I’m working on.
To make room for the clamp to clear the table, I’m again using a 1”X2”X3” precision block to lift the work, while still keeping it square to the belt. This is a little precarious here, as I’m only using one block on the far left side, under the blade. There is not enough room on the worktable for two blocks, but most importantly the two areas that the frame could rest on, are on two different planes. The handle area has an additional 60 thousands thickness on each side, so it is wider than the blade. Be especially careful not to tilt the handle area, keeping the blade tight and flat on the block. A little slip and the grinding won’t come out square.