St Margaret, Hales, Norfolk

I used to pass through Hales every time I drove to see Norwich play, from 1984 onwards. There is a backroad way to Haddiscoe then over the marshes to St Olaves and finally via Herringfleet and Somerleyton to Oulton and home.

 

Hales used to have a hospital, used I think for recuperation. Long since closed now and turned into housing, of course.

 

I used to drive through either full of anticipation of the afternoon's entertainment ahead, or go back home either so happy after seeing them win, or in despondency if we had lost. First time I drove to Carrow Road was in the spring of 1984 was to see City play Watford. City won 6-1, and John Deehan scored four. Not all afternoons were like that.

 

I can't remember the last time I drove to Norwich along the 146, to be honest. I know turning right towards Norwich used to be difficult at times, even more so now.

 

A few years back, I went looking for the church in Hales, and seeing signs pointing to another church ended up in Heckingham.

 

St Margaret is just off the main road, up a quiet lane, and yet the local louts find it in their hearts to come here to smash the windows in the chancel. I can't understand it, and after the visit here I was filled with a mix of anger and sadness. In Kent, Elmstone is a remote church, and yet the local youth there find time to smash the windows there too.

 

Inside St Margaret there are a fine selection of wall paintings and Norman arches and fittings, topped off with a thatched roof too.

 

I tried to get a good shot from distance, but the small churchyard made this difficult, hence the leaning tower in one of the shots.

 

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Comparing Suffolk and Norfolk, as I inevitably must, I am afraid that the southern county rarely comes off best, and descriptions of Norfolk churches lend themselves to superlatives. Take Norman remains, for example - Suffolk has some, if you look for them. It has some nice doorways, at Sapiston and Westhall for example, and a Victorian rebuilding of what may or may not have been a Norman apse at Wissington. But Norfolk has more than seventy fine Norman doorways, and the best are all within a few miles of each other to the east and south-east of Norwich. Best of all are Wroxham and Heckingham, but the most complete Norman church in the county, indeed in all East Anglia, is here at Hales, two miles south of Heckingham, and like that church in the care of the Churches Conservation Trust.

St Margaret is extraordinary because so much of its original Norman fabric survives. Indeed, apart from some 13th century windows punched into the apse (a rare example of transitional vandalism!) you wouldn't know anything had happened here since the 1100s. The blank arcading on the apse is superb, and once went all the way around it. Most famous of all, the north doorway, its six orders so similar to the five at Heckingham that they must be by the same mason.

 

I had read several accounts of visits to this church, but all appeared to have been made in summer. Today, in deepest winter, I found it a stark, rather bleak place, overwhelmed by the noise from the nearby Norwich to Beccles road. Perhaps summer foliage absorbs the sound. Some churches, of course, are at their best in the bleak mid-winter, nearby Heckingham for example. But I longed for summer sunshine on those honeyed walls. A good excuse to go back in the summer.

 

Inside, the air was that of the previous day's sub-zero temperatures - it caught your breath as you went in. The interior has the prescribed simplicity of all CCT churches, a neatness and cleanness that is to be admired and imitated. Ahead is the great St Christopher, which is very faded, but the heads of the two figures are very characterful. The figure in the splay of a south wall window is probably St James with his staff. High above, two angels blowing trumpets are tucked into the eaves above where the rood loft once was.

 

There is a good view of the interior from the gallery, and you can also go into the base of the tower itself. The splays of the round windows still have the impress of the basketwork of 900 years ago - an astounding thought. Also ancient is the wooden shelf inside the aumbry on the north chancel wall.

 

The font is relatively modern, only 500 years old! The snooty little lions reminded me of their cousins at Salthouse, although the smiles here are nowhere near as friendly. There is a famous 17th century font cover associated with it - it has the silhouette of the Rector of the day on its base. It is now in safe keeping at Booton, where I had seen it a few months previously, but had omitted to photograph it. A good excuse to go back there, too.

 

Simon Knott, December 2004

 

www.norfolkchurches.co.uk/hales/hales.htm

 

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HALES, or LODDEN-HALES,

Bigot's Manor.

 

By some accounted to be in Loddon-hundred. There were at the survey several lordships in this town: Roger Bigot, ancestor to the Earls of Nofolk, had a grant of one, which Alestan (a thane of King Harold) was deprived of; to this there belonged one carucate of land, and 40 acres with 9 bordarers, and 2 carucates in demean, one among the tenants, and 5 acres of meadow, paunage for 3 swine, one runcus, one cow, &c. and 10 sheep. There were also 13 freemen belonging to the lord's fold, and under his commendation with 40 acres of land, valued at 20s. but at the survey at 40s. this Alestan put himself under the commendation of Alwin de Tedford, in the reign of King William, and was seised of it at the time when the Conqueror gave it to Roger Bigot. But the hundred never saw any writ or livery, whereby it was granted to Alwin. All Hales was fifteen furlongs long, and 12 perches and six furlongs broad; and pays 8d. gelt. (fn. 1)

 

This lordship extended into Loddon, and was held by the Bigots Earls of Norfolk, and by the grant of Roger Bigot Earl of Norfolk, who died s. p. it came to King Edward I. and was given by King Edward II. to his brother, Thomas de Brotherton Earl of Norfolk, and so came to the Lord Segrave, the Mowbrays, and the Howards Dukes of Norfolk.

 

On the attainder of Thomas Duke of Norfolk, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, it was in the Crown, and King James I. on June 17, ao. 1, bestowed it on Thomas Lord Howard, of Walden, and Henry Howard, afterwards Earl of Northampton, from whom it passed to Thomas Howard Earl of Surry, who in the 21 of the said King, April 1, had license to alien it to Anthony Hobart, Esq. and his heirs; Anthony conveyed it in the same year to James Hobart, his son and heir, who, by deed, dated Sep. 12, ao. 12 of Charles I. sold it to Henry Humberston Esq. son of William Humberston, of Loddon by Joan, his wife, daughter of John Smith, of Lanham in Suffolk, which William was son of John Humberston of Loddon.

 

Henry had 2 wives: by Mary, daughter of Henry Yaxley of Beauthorp, Esq. his 2d wife, he had no issue; by his first wife Anne, daughter of Giles Bladwell, Esq. of Thorlow Magna, in Suffolk, was father of William Humberstone, Esq. who married Mildred, daughter of Charles Walgrave of Stanninghall in Norfolk, Esq. who conveyed this manor to Francis Gardiner, Esq. mayor of Norwich in 1685, (son of Francis Gardiner D. D. vicar of Kendal,) and burgess in parliament for that city, in 1695. Stephen Gardiner, Esq. his son, was recorder of Norwich, and died in 1727. Gardiner, bore, gules a chevron, between three griffins heads erased, or.

 

Ralph Lord Baynard was rewarded with a lordship, of which Toke, a freeman (of Stigand, the Archbishop of Canterbury) of French extraction, was deprived; consisting of 30 acres of land, 3 villains, with a carucate and 3 acres of meadow, &c. and 60 sheep; there were 12 freemen under his protection, and of his fold who held 41 acres of land, with a carucate and a half, and 3 acres of meadow: there were also 2 freemen under his protection only, with 18 acres, of land and half a carucate, also one freeman with 30 acres one, borderer and one carucate, and one acre of meadow; the whole valued at 17s. but at the survey at 30s. (fn. 2)

 

A family who took their name from this town, was early enfeoffed of it, and held it under the Lord Baynard. Roger de Hales and William, his son, were living in the reign of Henry II.—Walter de Hales, in the time of King John; and Sir Roger, son of Walter, in the 34 of Henry III. John, son of Sir Roger, in the 22 of Edward I. which Sir Roger, by deed, sans date, confirmed the exchange of lands (between 2 persons) that were held of his fee in Hales; which shows that it was the custom for lords of manors to confirm the purchases, before the statute of Quia Emplores, &c. and sealed with barry of 12, azure and or, on a canton, gules, a lion passant. Sir John de Hales was living, ao. 20 Edward III. and by Catherine, (after married to Roger de Wellesham,) was father of John de Hales, who died s. p. ao. 43 Edward III. and held this lordship of the barony of Fitz-Walter.

 

In the 17 of Richard II. William, son of Edmund de Redesham of Kirkby Caam, conveyed by fine, to Sir Robert de Willoughby, Sir Miles Stapleton, John, son of Sir John de Norwich, &c. the manor of HalesHall in Loddon, one messuage, 4 carucates of land, 24 acres of meadow, 2 of wood, 20 of marsh, and 100s. rent, in Hales, Loddon, Kirkeby, with the advowson of Hales-Hall chapel, purchased by John de Norwich in reversion; Sir George Felbrigg of Tottington, holding two parts of the manor and lands, in right (as I take it) of the widow of Edmund de Reedisham, then his wife, and Joan, widow of John de Hales, holding a 3d part in dower. (fn. 3)

 

Sir Simon Felbrigg, in the 12th of Henry IV. recovered the manor of Hales-Hall by writ of Novel Disseisin, against John Hotot, and held his first court on Tuesday next after the assumption of the blessed Virgin, and it was after settled on his two feoffees, Sir John Howard, and Sir John de Ingaldesthorp, &c.

 

In the 19th of Henry VI. Nicholas Waleys and John Pewk, were querents in a fine, and Henry Walpole, and Margaret his wife, deforciants of 10l. rent, per ann. in Loddon-Hales manor, conveyed to Pewk; and in the 30th of that King, Hugh Croke, vicar of Hale, was a trustee of Thomas Cleymonds, Esq. deceased, late lord.

 

¶After this, it was possessed by Sir James Hobart, attorney-general, and of the privy council to King Henry VII. of whom, and his ancestors, see in Plumstede Parva, in Blofield hundred. His benefactions and good works, testify his charity and generosity; he resided in his manor-house here, which he built for the most part, (and died here,) with the elegant parish church of the Holy Trinity, at Loddon; also a fair bridge over the Waveney river, between Norfolk and Suffolk, called St. Olaves, or Tooley's bridge, with a good causeway to it; (fn. 4) contributed to the rebuilding of the council chamber in the Guild-Hall of the city of Norwich, and to the noble arched stone roof of the cathedral church of Norwich. Sir Walter Hobart was his son and heir, and lord of this manor; sheriff of Norfolk and Suffolk, ao. 1, Henry VIII. in the 20 of that King, he settled this lordship, with that of Chatgrave, Lille ford's, Tilney in Norfolk, and others in Suffolk, as may be seen in Chatgrave, Loddon hundred, on Walter Hobart, Esq. his son and heir. A pedigree of the eldest branch of the family I have here annexed.

 

James Hobart, Esq. sold it in the 12 of Charles I. to Henry Humberstone, Esq. (as is mentioned in Bigot's manor above,) whose son William, is said to have conveyed part of it to Francis Gardiner, Esq. and part to the Lady Dionysia Williamson, relict of Sir Thomas Williamson, Baronet, of Markham Magna in Nottinghamshire, daughter and heir of William Hales, Esq. son of Richard Hales, Esq. who was lady of this manor of Hales-Hall, in 1666, and resided here; she gave 4000l. to the rebuilding the church of St. Dunstan in the East, of London; to the rebuilding of St. Paul's cathedral, 2001l. and was a benefactress to the rebuilding of the church of St. Mary Le Bow, in London, giving 2000l. and at her death, left Hales-Hall to John Hoskins, Esq. her nephew, (who was lord in 1687,) with the impropriated rectory of Loddon.

 

The abbot of St. Edmund of Bury, had a lordship which Frodo held of them at the survey; 9 men, 2 of them were socmen, and 7 more, belonged to the abbot's lordship, and were under his protection only, held 64 acres in King Edward's reign, when there were 2 borderers and 5 freemen, with 6 acres; this was valued with Loddon. (fn. 5)

 

Frodo, also, held of the abbot one acre, of which 2 freemen were deprived; valued at 4d. (fn. 6) Of this Frodo, &c. see in Loddon, which manor extended also into this town.

 

Godric, the King's steward, held one acre and a half, out of which a freeman was ejected: this was granted to Godric on the forfeiture of Ralph Earl of Norfolk, who had a moiety (as lord) of this freeman. (fn. 7)

 

The tenths were 2l. 10s. Deducted 10s. Temporalities of St. Olaves 8d. and of Langley abbey 24s.

 

The Church of Hales was a rectory, but granted in the 4th of Henry I. by Ralph de Chedgrave, and Emma his wife, to William, prior of St. Olaves, probably founder of that priory; and a vicar was appointed on its appropriation to that convent. It was dedicated to St. Margaret, and it appears by the register of Langley abbey, that the prior and convent of St. Olaves at Hering flete in Suffolk were rectors of Hale, and had the tithe of 235 acres of land in Hale parish belonging to Langley abbey, in exchange for 235 acres of land in Loddon and Heckingham, belonging to the priory of St. Olaves. (fn. 8)

 

In the reign of Edward I. the rectory was valued at 11 marks, and the vicarage at 40s. The vicar had then a manse with 30 acres of land. Peter-pence 18d. Carvage 12d. 0b.

 

Vicars.

 

In 1317, Adam de Blofield was instituted vicar, presented by the prior of St. Olaves, and nominated by the Bishop of Norwich.

 

1326, John de Carlethorp. Ditto.

 

1333, Roger de Petengraunt. Ditto.

 

1337, Adam de Bergh. Ditto.

 

1349, John Le Neve. Ditto.

 

1366, William Warren. Ditto.

 

1366, John Stalworth. Ditto.

 

1377, Peter de Wynch. Ditto.

 

1382, Roger Calf. Ditto.

 

1382, John Wandeford. Ditto.

 

1391, Simon Bangot. Ditto.

 

1391, John Bradock. Ditto.

 

1395, John Smith. Ditto.

 

1397, Henry Welden. Ditto.

 

1397, Thomas Coyte. Ditto.

 

1398, Richard Bytering. Ditto.

 

1403, Richard Bangoot. Ditto.

 

1403, John Ousnell Ditto.

 

1404, Walter Jakes. Ditto.

 

1413, William Norwich. Ditto.

 

1417, Thomas Smith. Ditto.

 

In 1458, Hugh Croke occurs vicar.

 

In 1503, I find it served by a stipendiary curate, for 5l. per ann. and he then returned 45 communicants, John Hill being the impropriator; and in 1742, the heirs of Mr. Peter Lawes.

 

¶Here was also a chapel at Hales-Hall, belonging to the manor of the family of De Hales, dedicated to St. Andrew: this, with the hall, stood in the parish of Loddon, and in 1287, it is said to stand in the manor of Wrantishagh, belonging to Sir Roger de Hales, in Loddon parish, and leave was then granted to him, that he might institute the chaplains of it, by the concession and grant of the abbot of Langley, rectors of the church of Loddon, and of John de Feryby, official to William, Bishop of Norwich, the said Sir Roger and his heirs granting to the chaplains all the obventions and oblations, with the small tithes of his court, and that the servant, of him and his heirs having their habitations in the parish of Loddon, shall pay to the mother church of Loddon, the oblations accustomed, and shall receive the sacraments there. (fn. 9) And the chaplains administering in the said chapel, were to pay yearly to the said mother church, in acknowledgment of subjection, all the oblations and obventions given on Easter-day, and St. Andrew's day, and two wax candles of a pound of wax, on Trinity Sunday, and to give security to the vicars of Loddon, for the time being, that they should not say any anniversaries, trentals, or any masses for any parishioners of Loddon.

 

In 1331, Sir John de Hales was patron, and in 1349; and John, son and heir of Sir John, in 1361.

 

Alexander de Hales, styled Doctor Irrefragabilis, who died in 1245, was born here. Hales, Halesworth, Halestead, Alesham and Aylesford, so called, as near to some river or water.

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/topographical-hist-norfolk/vol8...

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