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A surfing blast from the past

Back in 2011 it was possible to go down to the local break and shoot hundreds of surf shots from a vantage point so close to the waves, we occasionally got wet. I loved surf photography, even when most of my shots were rubbish. Now in this age of safety and sobriety, all the good photo spots are inaccessible or simply gone. Soon the Fun Police will bust smiling surfers and confiscate their boards in the interests of seriousness and sobriety.

 

This was always one of my rubbish shots, I post it in protest and defiance at a world that's changing too fast, and I fear, not for the better.

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Uploaded on June 20, 2019
Taken on January 22, 2011