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Reverse Lens Macro - Japanese Plum Blossom
Taken in Ueno Park, Tokyo.
Since buying my DSLR last year I've been very interested to try some reverse lens macro work.
I read as much as I could before taking the plunge but like with everything else photography related, getting your hands on the equipment is the best way to learn IMPO. For others thinking of trying this type of photography too, I wanted to share the info I've recently picked up and the results so far.
My first royalty came through from Getty last month and so I used the money to bid in an online auction (another first) for an old Canon FD 50mm f1.8 SC lens to get started. I'd only recommend getting a lens that has a dedicated ring for adjusting the aperture manually. Mine cost about 30 GBP for the circa 1976 lens which, is in very good condition.
I took the lens to my local camera specialists and they worked out what I'd need to attach it to my Canon EOS 60D. I opted for the following:
- Kenko 58mm reverse adapter for Canon EOS mount
- Kenko 55mm - 58mm step-up ring (step down in this case)
- Canon FD Lens Rear Cap
Assembly: Camera Body > 58mm reverse adapter > Step-down ring 58mm to 55mm > Reverse attach lens using its 55mm front filter thread > FD Lens rear cap now acts as front lens cap.
Camera set up: You can only use manual mode, so you should be comfortable with setting the ISO, aperture and exposure times yourself. Today was the first time to go out and take some shots and I quickly learnt that what I saw through the viewfinder is often not what you get, so you will have to make a lot of adjustments as you shoot (this in itself is great practice).
Depth of Field (DOF): Shallow is word!! 2-5mm. I'm still learning too so any reader advice / corrections on this are welcomed. I get the best results when I set the aperture to F/22 and the focal length to minimum (0.6m) allowing for slightly more DOF. Every time I have to be around 10cm away from the subject to find the focus area. This I found to be an OK working distance as if I accidentally cast a shadow over the subject there is some margin to move around to a different angle.
Magnification: High!! I can't fit a 20p coin into the frame (rough diameter of the coin is 15mm).
The above image is of Japanese Plum Blossom, it blooms early in the year before the famed Cherry Blossom (Sakura). It is much more intense in colour than the latter but less sporadic. I had a lot of trouble to achieve decent focus - partly due the breeze but more because I don't know what I'm doing =P. The best strategy for now is to take a few test shots then review them checking ISO, aperture etc. then find the angle you want and take a boat load of shots moving in and out by fractions and with some luck a half decent exposure will be caught.
A big thanks to the staff at the Yodobashi Camera store in Akihabara for their insightful input and advice.
Canon EOS 60D | ISO 400 | f/22 | 1/100 | 50mm Lens Reversed | AWB | Getty Images
Reverse Lens Macro - Japanese Plum Blossom
Taken in Ueno Park, Tokyo.
Since buying my DSLR last year I've been very interested to try some reverse lens macro work.
I read as much as I could before taking the plunge but like with everything else photography related, getting your hands on the equipment is the best way to learn IMPO. For others thinking of trying this type of photography too, I wanted to share the info I've recently picked up and the results so far.
My first royalty came through from Getty last month and so I used the money to bid in an online auction (another first) for an old Canon FD 50mm f1.8 SC lens to get started. I'd only recommend getting a lens that has a dedicated ring for adjusting the aperture manually. Mine cost about 30 GBP for the circa 1976 lens which, is in very good condition.
I took the lens to my local camera specialists and they worked out what I'd need to attach it to my Canon EOS 60D. I opted for the following:
- Kenko 58mm reverse adapter for Canon EOS mount
- Kenko 55mm - 58mm step-up ring (step down in this case)
- Canon FD Lens Rear Cap
Assembly: Camera Body > 58mm reverse adapter > Step-down ring 58mm to 55mm > Reverse attach lens using its 55mm front filter thread > FD Lens rear cap now acts as front lens cap.
Camera set up: You can only use manual mode, so you should be comfortable with setting the ISO, aperture and exposure times yourself. Today was the first time to go out and take some shots and I quickly learnt that what I saw through the viewfinder is often not what you get, so you will have to make a lot of adjustments as you shoot (this in itself is great practice).
Depth of Field (DOF): Shallow is word!! 2-5mm. I'm still learning too so any reader advice / corrections on this are welcomed. I get the best results when I set the aperture to F/22 and the focal length to minimum (0.6m) allowing for slightly more DOF. Every time I have to be around 10cm away from the subject to find the focus area. This I found to be an OK working distance as if I accidentally cast a shadow over the subject there is some margin to move around to a different angle.
Magnification: High!! I can't fit a 20p coin into the frame (rough diameter of the coin is 15mm).
The above image is of Japanese Plum Blossom, it blooms early in the year before the famed Cherry Blossom (Sakura). It is much more intense in colour than the latter but less sporadic. I had a lot of trouble to achieve decent focus - partly due the breeze but more because I don't know what I'm doing =P. The best strategy for now is to take a few test shots then review them checking ISO, aperture etc. then find the angle you want and take a boat load of shots moving in and out by fractions and with some luck a half decent exposure will be caught.
A big thanks to the staff at the Yodobashi Camera store in Akihabara for their insightful input and advice.
Canon EOS 60D | ISO 400 | f/22 | 1/100 | 50mm Lens Reversed | AWB | Getty Images