IMG_0082.JPG
So far, I'm really love my new saw. You can see two partial-cylinder indicator lines on either side of the fence, with the left one lined up over the 2" mark. These clear plastic magnifiers are adjustable a bit via their screws, and make it pretty easy to 'eyeball' in pretty accurate cuts.
To get these aligned, I turned to a tool that's growing in usefulness since I bought it, the 24" SSE-2 Steel Straight Edge from Woodpeckers. I picked it up when it was on sale for $20 off regular price. It's exactly 2.5" wide (actually 2.508" by my digicalipers), so I wiped off the saw on both sides of the blade, laid the straight edge on the left side, and slid the fence slowly up to it, pushing it toward the blade, carefully tapping the fence until I got the straight edge just barely touching the widest part of the blade's teeth.
Then I locked down the fence, and carefully adjusted the left-side clear indicator piece over the left-side ruler. I repeated this for the left side. I made sure I was looking with one eye, straight down on the indicator line, and fussed with each indicator until it was exactly covering (entirely) the 2.5" line beneath it. That's how I'll line it up for cuts from now on, too. Doing that, all cuts I made then were within 1/100th of an inch from what I wanted, across the entire length of the rips (about 1.5' long 1/2" cheap plywood), lining the fence up only by eye for each cut width change.
I also unscrewed the orange throat plate over the blade, and worked with a hex wrench for about 20 minutes, carefully adjusting it to be exactly flush in all corners with the table. I used a 6" clamping square from Woodpeckers as a straight edge for that fussy work, laying it over the whole throat plate, and then lightly sliding it from the table over the plate, and adjusting it until it no longer caught on the plate's edge.
IMG_0082.JPG
So far, I'm really love my new saw. You can see two partial-cylinder indicator lines on either side of the fence, with the left one lined up over the 2" mark. These clear plastic magnifiers are adjustable a bit via their screws, and make it pretty easy to 'eyeball' in pretty accurate cuts.
To get these aligned, I turned to a tool that's growing in usefulness since I bought it, the 24" SSE-2 Steel Straight Edge from Woodpeckers. I picked it up when it was on sale for $20 off regular price. It's exactly 2.5" wide (actually 2.508" by my digicalipers), so I wiped off the saw on both sides of the blade, laid the straight edge on the left side, and slid the fence slowly up to it, pushing it toward the blade, carefully tapping the fence until I got the straight edge just barely touching the widest part of the blade's teeth.
Then I locked down the fence, and carefully adjusted the left-side clear indicator piece over the left-side ruler. I repeated this for the left side. I made sure I was looking with one eye, straight down on the indicator line, and fussed with each indicator until it was exactly covering (entirely) the 2.5" line beneath it. That's how I'll line it up for cuts from now on, too. Doing that, all cuts I made then were within 1/100th of an inch from what I wanted, across the entire length of the rips (about 1.5' long 1/2" cheap plywood), lining the fence up only by eye for each cut width change.
I also unscrewed the orange throat plate over the blade, and worked with a hex wrench for about 20 minutes, carefully adjusting it to be exactly flush in all corners with the table. I used a 6" clamping square from Woodpeckers as a straight edge for that fussy work, laying it over the whole throat plate, and then lightly sliding it from the table over the plate, and adjusting it until it no longer caught on the plate's edge.