A sunny day | Swayambhunath | Kathmandu | Nepal

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Swayambhu (Devanagari: स्वयम्भू स्तूप; Nepal Bhasa: स्वयंभू; sometimes Swayambu or Swoyambhu) is an ancient religious complex atop a hill in the Kathmandu Valley, west of Kathmandu city. The Tibetan name for the site means 'Sublime Trees' (Wylie: Phags.pa Shing.kun), for the many varieties of trees found on the hill. However, Shing.kun may be a corruption of the local Nepal Bhasa name for the complex, Swayambhu, meaning 'self-sprung'.[1] For the Buddhist Newars, in whose mythological history and origin myth as well as day-to-day religious practice Swayambhunath occupies a central position, it is probably the most sacred among Buddhist pilgrimage sites. For Tibetans and followers of Tibetan Buddhism, it is second only to Boudha.

 

The complex consists of a stupa, a variety of shrines and temples, some dating back to the Licchavi period. A Tibetan monastery, museum and library are more recent additions. The stupa has Buddha's eyes and eyebrows painted on. Between them, the number one (in Devanagari script) is painted in the fashion of a nose. There are also shops, restaurants and hostels. The site has two access points: a long staircase leading directly to the main platform of the temple, which is from the top of the hill to the east; and a car road around the hill from the south leading to the south-west entrance. The first sight on reaching the top of the stairway is the Vajra. Tsultrim Allione describes the experience:

 

We were breathless and sweating as we stumbled up the last steep steps and practically fell upon the biggest vajra (thunderbolt scepter) that I have ever seen. Behind this Vajra was the vast, round, white dome of the stupa, like a full solid skirt, at the top of which were two giant Buddha eyes wisely looking out over the peaceful valley which was just beginning to come alive.[2]

Much of Swayambhunath's iconography comes from the Vajrayana tradition of Newar Buddhism. However, the complex is also an important site for Buddhists of many schools, and is also revered by Hindus.

 

 

Mythology

According to Swayambhu Purana, the entire valley was once filled with an enormous lake, out of which grew a lotus. The valley came to be known as Swayambhu, meaning "Self-Created." The name comes from an eternal self-existent flame (svyaṃbhu) over which a sūpa was later built.

 

There are holy monkeys living in the north-west parts of the temple. They are holy because Manjushri, the bodhisattva of wisdom and learning, was raising the hill which the stupa stands on. He was supposed to leave his hair short but he made it grow long and head lice grew. It is said that the head lice transformed into these monkeys.

 

Manjusri had a vision of the Lotus at Swayambhu and traveled there to worship it. Seeing that the valley could be a good settlement, and to make the site more accessible to human pilgrims, he cut a gorge at Chovar. The water drained out of the lake, leaving the valley in which Kathmandu now lies. The Lotus was transformed into a hill and the flower became the stupa.

 

History

Swayambhunath is among the oldest religious sites in Nepal. According to the Gopālarājavaṃśāvalī, it was founded by the great-grandfather of King Mānadeva (464-505 CE), King Vṛsadeva, about the beginning of the 5th century CE. This seems to be confirmed by a damaged stone inscription found at the site, which indicates that King Vrsadeva ordered work done in 640 CE.

 

However, Emperor Ashoka is said to have visited the site in the third century BCE and built a temple on the hill which was later destroyed.

 

Although the site is considered Buddhist, the place is revered by both Buddhists and Hindus. Numerous Hindu monarch followers are known to have paid their homage to the temple, including Pratap Malla, the powerful king of Kathmandu, who is responsible for the construction of the eastern stairway in the 17th century.[4]

 

The stupa was completely renovated in May 2010, its first major renovation since 1921[5][6] and its 15th in the nearly 1,500 years since it was built. The Swayambhu Shrine was re-gilded using 20 kg of gold. The renovation was funded by the Tibetan Nyingma Meditation Center of California, and began in June 2008.[7]

 

At around 5 a.m. on 14 February 2011, Pratapur Temple in the Swayambhu Monument Zone suffered damage from a lightning strike during a sudden thunderstorm.

 

The Swayambunath complex suffered damage in the April 2015 Nepal earthquake.

 

Architecture

The stupa consists of a dome at the base, above which is a cubical structure painted with eyes of Buddha looking in all four directions. There are pentagonal toran present above each of the four sides with statues engraved in them. Behind and above the torana there are thirteen tiers. Above all the tiers there is a small space above which the Gajur is present. The stupa has many artifacts inside it.

 

Symbolism

Swayambhunath stupa along with smalles stupas and pagodas in the foreground

Swayambhunath stupa along with Harati Devi's temple and smalles stupas and pagodas in the foreground

The dome at the base represents the entire world. When a person awakes (represented by eyes of wisdom and compassion) from the bonds of the world, the person reaches the state of enlightenment. The thirteen pinnacles on the top symbolize that sentient beings have to go through the thirteen stages of spiritual realizations to reach enlightenment or Buddhahood.

 

There is a large pair of eyes on each of the four sides of the main stupa which represent Wisdom and Compassion. Above each pair of eyes is another eye, the third eye. It is said that when Buddha preaches, cosmic rays emanate from the third eye which acts as messages to heavenly beings so that those interested can come down to earth to listen to the Buddha. The hellish beings and beings below the human realm cannot come to earth to listen to the Buddha's teaching, however, the cosmic rays relieve their suffering when Buddha preaches. Between the two eyes (also called Wisdom Eyes), a curly symbol, symbolizing the nose, is depicted which looks like a question mark, which is a Nepali sign of number figure one. This sign represents the unity of all things existing in the world as well as the only path to enlightenment through the teachings of Buddha.

 

There are carvings of the Panch Buddhas (five Buddhas) on each of the four sides of the stupa. There are also statues of the Buddhas at the base of the stupas. Panch Buddhas are Buddha in a metaphorical sense in Tantrayana. They are Vairochana (occupies the center and is the master of the temple), Akshobhya (faces the east and represents the cosmic element of consciousness), Ratna Sambhava (faces the south and represents the cosmic element of sensation), Amitabha (He represents the cosmic element of Sanjna (name) and always faces the West) and Amoghsiddhi (He represents the cosmic element of confirmation and faces the north).

 

Each morning before dawn hundreds of Buddhist (Vajrayana) and Hindu pilgrims ascend the steps from the eastern side that lead up the hill, passing the gilded Vajra (Tibetan: Dorje) and two lions guarding the entrance, and begin a series of clockwise circumambulations of the stupa.

 

Swayambhu Purana

Swayambhu Purana (Devnagari: स्वयम्भू पूराण) is a Buddhist scripture about the origin and development of Kathmandu valley. Swayambhu Purana gives detail of all the Buddhas who came to Kathmandu. It also provides information about the first and the second Buddhas in Buddhism.

 

 

Swayambhunath (nepali: स्वयम्भूनाथ स्तुप, Svayambhūnāth stup) ist ein Tempelkomplex, der im Westen von Kathmandu auf einem Hügel erbaut ist.

 

Geschichte

Swayambhunath gilt neben Borobudur auf Java in Indonesien als eine der ältesten buddhistischen Tempelanlagen der Welt. Die inneren Bauten werden auf ca. 2500 Jahre geschätzt, die weiteren Umbauungen erfolgten später. Der Sage nach ist Swayambhunath eng mit der Entstehung des Kathmandu-Tals verknüpft.

 

Im April 2015 wurde die Tempelanlage bei einem Erdbeben schwer beschädigt. Der zentrale Stupa blieb zwar stehen, aber viele der ihn umgebenden Gebäude stürzten ein.[1]

 

 

Tempelanlage westlich des Hauptstupa

Das beherrschende Element der Tempelanlage ist der buddhistische Stupa mit den aufgemalten Augen, der von Kathmandu aus betrachtet gut sichtbar von zwei hinduistischen Türmen flankiert wird. Wie an vielen anderen Orten in Kathmandu sind auch in Swayambhunath buddhistische wie hinduistische Heiligenstätten eng verzahnt. Am Fuße der Hügel befindet sich eine Steinplatte mit den Fußabdrücken Buddhas. Von dort führt eine Treppe mit 365 Stufen, flankiert von bunten Figuren und Manisteinen, zur Tempelanlage.

 

Aufgrund der großen dort lebenden Population von Rhesusaffen wird Swayambhunath von Touristen auch „Tempel der Affen“ genannt.

 

Legende von Swayambhunath

 

Sadhu in Swayambhunath

Einst war das ganze Tal von Kathmandu ein großer See. Eines Tages entdeckten Sadhus eine Lotosblüte auf der Oberfläche des Sees. Über Jahrhunderte pilgerten Gläubige an die Ufer des Sees und verehrten die Lotosblüte als Symbol Gottes. Eines Tages stieg eine leuchtende Flamme aus dem Lotoskelch, Swayambhunath entstand oder besser gesagt erschuf sich selbst – so sagt es sein Name: Der aus sich selbst erstandene Gott. Die Manifestation des Buddha leuchtete noch viele weitere Epochen, bis der Bodhisattva Manjushri aus China nach dreimaliger Umrundung des Sees eine Schlucht in die südliche Hügelkette schlug und mit dem Abfluss des Wassers auch die Flamme verschwand. Die blauleuchtende Lotosblume pflanzte er auf den Hügel von Swayambhunath.

 

 

Kathmandu liegt im Zentrum des dicht besiedelten Kathmandutales, einem in 1300 m Höhe liegenden Talkessel von etwa 30 km Durchmesser. Die benachbarten größeren Städte im Tal, Lalitpur (Patan), Bhaktapur, Madhyapur Thimi, Kirtipur und zahlreiche kleinere Städte und Gemeinden bilden den Ballungsraum von Kathmandu. Die umliegenden Berge haben Höhen zwischen 2000 und 2700 m. Im Norden und mehr noch im Westen, haben die Ausläufer der dicht gebauten Stadt den Fuß dieser Berge schon erreicht. Die Stadt erstreckt sich an der Nordseite des Bagmati. Der Kernbereich liegt zwischen den Flüssen Vishnumati und Dhobi Khola. An der Südseite des Bagmati liegt die Schwesterstadt Lalitpur (Patan).

 

Das Wasser der im Kessel zusammenlaufenden Flüsse wird einzig über den Hauptfluss Bagmati durch eine Schlucht nach Süden abgeführt, durch die sonst keine Verkehrswege führen. Die wichtigste und bislang noch einzige Verkehrsanbindung an das übrige Land erfolgt über einen Pass im Westen der Stadt. Die extremen Monsunniederschläge führen alljährlich zu zahlreichen Erdrutschen, so dass Kathmandu immer wieder für einige Tage von der Außenwelt abgeschnitten ist. Eine zweite Straßenverbindung in den Terai, beginnend in Dhulikhel, etwa 30 km östlich von Kathmandu, ist seit 1997 im Bau und annähernd fertiggestellt. Die prekäre Anbindungssituation der Stadt wird damit deutlich verbessert werden.

 

Der Araniko Highway führt über Bhaktapur und Dhulikhel bis zur Sino-Nepalesischen Freundschaftsbrücke an der Grenze zu Tibet. Der Highway ist seit Jahren aufgrund von Erdrutschen und schlechtem Zustand auf dem letzten Teilstück bis zur Grenze mit der Volksrepublik China insbesondere während der Regenzeit häufig nicht befahrbar.[2] Im weiteren Verlauf auf chinesischer Seite ist die Straße als Friendship Highway nach Lhasa durchgehend befestigt und ausreichend ausgebaut.

 

Kathmandu ist via Flughafen Kathmandu erreichbar. Von drei Passstraßen nach Tibet ist eine verschüttet worden. Beim China-Nepal Highway trägt die Grenzbrücke keine Lastkraftwagen mehr.

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