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Advancing Waves of Willow

2024-09-12, Day 6

Willow and Balsam Poplar (Populous balsamifera) are interspersed to weave a tapestry of gold that is draped over the landscape, gathering in depth where it crowds the stream bank, Kluane National Park, Yukon.

 

Descending from Atlas Pass, the vegetation begins sparsely and with low stature. These are plants clinging to survival at the limits of their physiological tolerances to whatever chemical challenge is brewed by the local soil minerals and microbes. Moving downslope along the cut of the creek, the soil layers thicken over a mile or so, and the willows and poplar respond in kind, growing in stature and density. In autumn, the land erupts with giddy, irresponsible colour.

 

A little upstream we sat for a spell amongst the golden leaves and brewed a pot of tea. And then we found some biscuits and cheese in the food bags. In this location, all of these things seemed precious. On some level, I was reminded of Peregrine Took.

 

We had not crossed paths with another human being for almost four days. Over the past several days, we had crossed paths with what was likely 4 or 5 Grizzly Bears, 80 or so Dall Sheep, uncountable Ptarmigan, a hunting fox, and fresh tracks from caribou, wolves, and moose. It is hard to describe the heightened sense of awareness one finds oneself cultivating under these circumstances. With a group size of two, one feels the need to move with antennae attuned to signs of company.

 

The map and route description suggested that a half-mile or so downstream from where this photo was made, we might find a game path leaving the creek bed on the right. This path might then be followed to a meadow with good camp sites. It would then be necessary to walk upstream along the Duke River and look for a shallow enough reach that could be forded safely on foot. But these latter tasks would arrive on the morrow. Meanwhile, the irregular chuckling vocalizations of the Willow Ptarmigan erupted from the bushes at intervals.

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Uploaded on May 22, 2025
Taken on September 12, 2024