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Sum Tsek, Alchi Gompa, Ladakh, Jammu & Kashmir, India - 30.08.09

Camera Model Name: Canon EOS 400D DIGITAL

Lens: EF-S18-55mm f/3.5-5.6

Tv (Shutter Speed): 1/125

Av (Aperture Value): 7.1

Metering Modes: Evaluative Metering

ISO Speed: 100

Focal Length: 24.0 mm

Flash: Off

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DAY 11

 

Distance & Time: By car - 110 km / 4 hrs

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We had reached the resort in Alchi around 17:00 hrs yesterday and retired to our respective rooms till dinner. Not much unpacking was to be done since the plan is to depart for our next destination after bath, breakfast and visit to Alchi Gompa.

 

Ankur ordered an elaborate breakfast of cereals, toast, omelets, puri (deep fried Indian bread), sabji (diced potato in gravy) and coffee. Could manage only a small portion of it (which earned me a frown). We eat in silence mostly engrossed in our read (the dining area has a small library in the corner).

 

Walk towards Alchi Gompa through the narrow shaded alleys, which have little souvenir shops for the benefit of foreign tourists with all merchandise grossly over priced. Near the gompa entry there is a poplar tree bearing a board that claims it grew from the walking stick of the 10th century Buddhist scholar and translator Lotsava Rinchen Zangpo (who had revived Buddhism in Tibet).

 

Alchi monastery is different from the other gompas of Ladakh in ways more than one. Built in 12th century and probably abandoned in 15th century it is situated on a flat land and Kalden Shesrab (a monk from the Nyarma monastery which is presently in ruins) is attributed as the founder. Originally of Kagyu-pa sect but is now administered by the Gelug-pa monastery of Likir.

 

Though the first sight of the gompa is unimpressive, it is a treasury of superb murals bearing the signature Kashmiri style of art rather than Tibetan. There are six chapels and each of the interior walls are intricately painted. Though some of it have been damaged from water seepage and butter lamp shoot, an attempt of restoration has been made from time to time. The lower parts of the walls are painted in mosaic like small figures of Buddha (in different forms) while the top areas towards the ceiling are covered with animals, flowers and other figures. As there is no other light than that of the yellow flicker of the lamp, Ankur fishes out a tiny flash light from his trouser pocket to not only help us see better but painstakingly explains much of the common connections (of some of the figures) between Hinduism and Buddhism.

 

Sum Tsek or the 'three-tiered' temple is the most impressive of all the six chapels with high entrance supported by wooden columns and beams. I'm told that the Greco-Gandhara architectural motifs, which can be seen, are in typical Kashmiri style popular in 7th-10th century AD. It houses the 4m / 13.1 ft. clay Avalokiteswara (Buddha of Compassion) statue draped in a 'dhoti' (a flowing garment covering the lower part of the body), which is painted with palaces, shrines, divinities, monks, men riding horses etc. It is dwarfed by the 4.6m / 15 ft. red bronze hue statue of Maitreya (Future Buddha) also wearing an elaborately painted 'dhoti'. In the walls of the upper galleries, which is off limits to tourists but can be seen from the opening has terrific 'mandalas' (diagrammatic art forms) painted.

 

The other chapels are dedicated to Manjushri (god of divine wisdom) and Lotsawa (meaning translator and thus dedicated to Richen Zangpo), the Dukhang (congregation hall), Soma Lhakhang ('soma' means new), has a noticeable mural of Vairochana (the first of the Five Dyani Buddhas or meditating Buddhas, he is the illuminator to light the way) in the rear wall and Kangyur Lhakhang (the library room).

 

Though there are boards everywhere forbidding 'flash photography' a couple of tourists prefer to over look it. Instead of getting into direct confrontation Ankur takes the issue to a member of the gompa committee. Apparently he has strong views about the disregard many tourists show towards the locals, their religion, culture, art, privacy and worst a superior attitude.

 

Meantime, taking a look around the courtyard and the glass case exhibiting postcards and calendars (featuring the gompa) for sale.

 

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Note: The past few weeks have been quite traumatic because inspite of numerous medical investigations (blood serum, MRI scan and Ultra Sonography) the reason for tenderness and inflammation of quadriceps continued to elude the doctors. Finally, the sports medicine and injury specialist have concluded (hoping he is correct) that I've sustained Grade I Hamstring injury (meaning torn a few microscopic tissues). Thus, been strapped up for the next 6 weeks to be followed by three months of rehab program.

 

Though Hamstring injury might sound fashionable (some friends have called it the 'Beckham Syndrome' teasingly; he is down with Achilles tendon injury as most of you know), it is actually very painful and frustrating with movement restrictions. However, I'm very glad it is nothing more serious and would like to thank you all for your constant support and good wishes. Promise to be a good gal and get fit by summer (keeping all the fingers crossed), fetch new shots and travel accounts for you folks out there! :-D

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Uploaded on March 18, 2010
Taken on August 30, 2009