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Day Breaks Over Mt. Nemrut

Nemrut Dağı ’22

 

Mt. Nemrut is one of the highest peaks in the Taurus Mountains and the site of one of the most outstanding locations in the ancient world. It was here that Antiochus I of Commagene chose to build his vast burial complex, visible even today from many miles away. This mausoleum consisted of a large mound enclosing (presumably: it’s never been excavated) his tomb as well as two terraces on east and west. Each terrace faces either the rising or setting sun, making for a spectacular view on both occasions. The statues on display are particularly noteworthy, containing a mix of Greek and Persian themes befitting of Commagene’s mixed status. Antiochus himself appears in both Persian and Greek raiment and there are gods such as Zeus Ormazd (Ormazd=Ahura Mazda, the one god in Persian Zoroastrianism). The statue heads are currently lying at the feet of the headless statues, not due to design or defacement but earthquakes which (as people should now remember) are a frequent factor in that region of Turkey.

 

I was there for the sunrise (a seriously early start in summer as that’s 5AM in June and required a departure from Kahta an hour earlier) and it was an experience I’ll never forget. The sheer remoteness and emptiness of the summit makes everything feel otherworldly. I’m not religious, but on the climb to the top (the last half mile or so is a straight uphill climb from the parking lot) I felt like a pilgrim on some spiritual quest. When you reach the top and see the awe-inspiring view with the statues gazing out it really does give you chills (helped along by the bracing winds that you get even in summer). We weren’t super lucky with the sunrise as it was a cloudy morning, but there was one brief moment when the sun shone through lighting up the eastern terrace with spectacular orange light. This is that moment, but it remains one of the few times where I found pictures to fall woefully short of the majesty of the moment.

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Uploaded on April 22, 2023
Taken on June 3, 2022