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Nith Navigation September 2015

Ships, shanties, burgers and boules:

T’was another early start for most of our intrepid explorers as this week’s adventure took us westwards and upwards to Dumfries and the Nith Navigation Race. Ours was a truly Northumbrian contingent as members of three clubs banded together to crew “Coquet Spirit”. Huge thanks to those good folks who joined us, bringing their energy, enthusiasm (and Tupperware boxes) and helping make this trip happen (hurrah!)

We cheerfully observed the ever darkening skies as we crossed the A69 and we're motivated en route by texts from those crew-mates who had travelled the previous evening, explaining their relaxing morning and full Scottish breakfast in detail (cheers folks!). Rain turned into more rain but we managed to seek solace in the fact we were heading for a marginally lighter shade of grey! (Skiffies are waterproof anyway!) The puddles at the sides of the road raised columns of water as we rattled along the narrow country lanes, the view at times akin to the parting of the red sea. At one point we considered taking the boat off the trailer and rowing along the road itself.

It wasn’t long however before the horizon on the sat nav turned from green to blue and we found ourselves at our destination. Opening the car door and alighting we found we’d parked next to a sign that cheerfully welcomed us with the words “Warning, fast tides and quicksand” (I must admit our hearts leapt a bit with excitement at the tides… and a touch of trepidation at the quicksand)

We quickly dashed across the car park to seek welcome shelter. Here we commented thankfully on the genius of planning a row that started at a café and ended at a pub.

We’d poured into the café at 9.00 only to be told that they didn’t really open for another hour, but the cheerful chap happily agreed to tear up the rule book and furnish us with tea and bacon rolls anyway… it wasn’t however until 10.00 that he put the lights on !!! By this time the room was filling with skiffies and the car park was filling with water as we watched the tide start to hurtle by the windows. Today’s tide wasn’t particularly high (but still a belter by east coast standards) so the anticipated tidal bore wasn’t as dramatic as previously recorded (8 to 10m tides !!!!) .. But there certainly was still some cracking energy in the water. The Cox’s briefing pointed us to the fastest part of the flow and with a wicked grin we were advised to “use this to our advantage”. It was a short drag to the slip where fully-loaded skiffs were pushed down to the water by diesel power and floated off into the current for an energetic row back up to the starting point (against the tide).We chose the "push to the edge and clarty feet" option to save removing electrics etc. Thankfully someone had cleared the silt from the slip so we could tell it apart from the "sinky stuff" Once back up at the starting point, crews had steered themselves into the mud banks to get some purchase before a staged start (partly to avoid clutter and partly because you’d never get boats to stop in that current .. never mind line up!) and with a wave….we were off…….

The first half of the six mile course was ably assisted by the tide, then time to lengthen out the strokes and pick up the pace a touch. Eager heads were cast over shoulders to try and gauge the field in comparison to our relative starting positions as Boatie Blest (starting last) grew from a spec on the horizon to pass us in the last few minutes. For a while we held our own and it was great to race through the bridges together. Before we knew it chequered flags were waived (by Elsie from Gosforth!!) and all crews applauded each other’s efforts as a close field came in one shortly after the other. A quick draw of breath saw the last of the rain pass and skies clear in time for a row in company back down the river. This time we took the opportunity to look at the scenery we’d obviously ignored on the way down. This included a derelict mill building that looked as if it came straight out of an episode of Scooby Doo (Mr Grimes the caretaker would have gotten away with it too if it wasn’t for those meddling skiffs!!).

With the sun out and in clear water we broke into a few “traditional” shanties (artistic license and local flavour applied aplenty as usual!!) before turning and mooring up at Kingholme Quay, alongside tall ship La Malouine. Here boats were admired and oars/footrests/mascots/blisters compared before the “skiff extraction machine” swung into action. At this point chains and strops were secured and lowered over the quay edge and skiffs were lifted from the water, swung around and deftly lowered to their waiting trailers (thanks guys!!). Several fingernails may have been bitten as the first skiff was lifted, but these were quickly forgotten and the clubs all pulled together checking landings, moving trailers and unhooking/re-hooking chains. Here new friendships were made and old ones rekindled … all with the re-assuring squelch of mud underfoot. Rob revisited the “shuggy boats” of our youth as he was lifted to land aboard the final skiff as Geoff and Jenny furnished the masses with pasties and chilli infused scotch eggs from Tupperwares 1 and 2)

With the boats safely on trailers we adjourned to the pub where skiffies of all ages filled the room with hearty chatter. At this point Ian and Elsie broke out Tupperwares 3 and 4 supplying the table with Rocky Road and flapjacks (fruit well soaked) before Roy (our gracious host) announced that food was served and we were treated to a mountain of cracking burgers and sausage buns. All were well and truly stuffed when glasses were "pinged" to herald the announcement that more burgers had arrived… well? It would be rude not to would it ?? Buttons were universally unfastened and attention drawn to the presentations where all crews received a commemorative bottle of whisky featuring the fair Malouine herself (a really nice touch, thanks) and apologies made for lack of planned cheese due to an accident involving the “cheese man” (we all wish him well!!) The final presentation was made to the deserved winners Boatie Blest (hip hip……)

At this point hugs and handshakes are normally exchanged and folks make their way home, however this is not the way of Nith. Seconds later a stranger in a beret carrying a French flag entered from stage left (looking uncannily like our host) and we were marched to the riverside for the first “Coastal Rowing Boules Tournament” a respectful nod to the lineage of the fair ship to our left. The rules were explained, heats were drawn and eager skiffies set about examining the equipment and discussing proposed technique. Watched by an enthusiastic crowd the crews ran through two qualifiers and a final with Troon taking the inaugural title followed by three hearty and well deserved cheers for our hosts and all involved…. (Absolutely cracking way to round off a day)

The sun was now well and truly beaming and we toddled up to the tall ship and were welcomed and offered open access to “climb aboard and take to look”. Here we were regaled with tales of the ship’s chequered history from Icebreaker to party boat in Martinique to the theft of its sails in France and how it ultimately found residence here. We did all but climb the rigging before bidding Roy a fond farewell with a promise to return (any other NE skiffs fancy coming next year and staying over perhaps??)

By now we’re used to these stories extending (brevity is not, I’m afraid, a gift that I posses to any great degree) and today was to be no exception …so we settled back in the beer garden for a quick beverage and the remnants of Tupperwares 1,2,3 and 4 (sounds like the ACRC equivalent of Thunderbirds!!) Conversation was varied and eclectic and shifted from boat and surfboard building through to 18 month sourdough cultures to the absorbency of bread buns and “whims”. As if fate couldn’t have arranged a better day already, a lady from behind the bar came out to our table with an additional beer stating simply that “it was our lucky day”. We responded in the only manner we knew how, tastefully arranging a plate from our respective Tupperwares, taking it into the bar and reciprocating her sentiment word for word….. Happy days indeed!

Farewells were finally exchanged as we recounted the day’s events and were again astounded at what you can fit into 12 hours when you’ve got a skiff, some water and good company…

Huge thanks to all involved.

Right then fellow adventurers……… what’s next ???

Note: Apologies that there are no actual race photos to accompany this …. Maybe someone can help us out?

Done