Driving along "The Road" through Hell's Gate looking down toward the Saba airport.

Driving along "The Road" through Hell's Gate looking down toward the Saba airport.

 

History & Culture

Saba's birth was traumatic. Circa 500,000 BC the island was formed as the top of a volcano that became active during the middle of the late Pleistocene era. Now a dormant volcano, she has not erupted for about 5,000yrs.

Arawak Tribe

Circa 1175 BC - hunter gatherers called Ciboney are considered to be the earliest settlers on Saba. They lived near Fort Bay where recent radiocarbon samples showed that the site is over 3,000yrs old.

Circa 800 AD - Arawak Indians migrated into the Caribbean basin from South America and built villages on Saba.

Fast forwarding to 1493, Christopher Columbus sighted the Unspoiled Queen, but sailed on by without attempting any sort of landing when he observed the treacherous nature of her jagged volcanic shores.

A century and a half later in 1632 the island welcomed her first European visitors, a group of shipwrecked Englishmen, they reported later that the island was inhabited. Recently found artifacts revealed the existence of Amerindian settlements.

In 1640, the Dutch West Indian Company, which had already settled on the neighboring island of St. Eustatius (known then as "The Golden Rock" as it was a thriving regional center of commerce) brought people over to Saba in order to colonize the island. Soon after, those Dutchmen were chased away by the famous British pirate Henry Morgan, due to the ongoing conflict between the Netherlands and Britain. For almost 200 years the island switched hands between The Dutch, Spanish, French and English. During this period the village of "The Bottom" was established 1200ft up from Fort Bay. Today it is the administrative center and capital of the island.

After much toing and froing the Dutch won out in 1816. For almost two centuries this still remains the case. Like everywhere else in the Caribbean, the tragedy of slavery brought people of African descent to Saba's shores, because life on the island was hard and all had to work together to survive, slavery on Saba ended far in advance of other parts of the world.

For many years Saba was known as a haven for Caribbean pirates. As time passed by the Unspoiled Queen wove her calming spell and the inhabitants, of Dutch, African, English, Scottish and Irish descent, many of the men became sailors and fishermen. These professions would see many of the Saba men away from the island for extended periods of time... The island thus became known as "The Island of Women"! Since the "man of the house" was often away Saba's women became very resilient and independent by necessity. Their renown grew for making socks, shoes, belts, gloves, Panama style straw hats and, still an enduring tradition today and a healthy income gained from export then, lace. Originally known as "Spanish work" the Sabans made it their own and "Saba Lace" is still created and can be purchased in several locations around the island today.

During this time the inhabitants spread to various locations on the island and formed the villages that we know today, where the fertile volcanic soil created ideal conditions for another profession... agriculture. From 1829 schools were established by the local churches to educate Saba's youth.

 

The Twentieth Century

Admiral E.A. JohnsonIn 1909 A navigational school was established by Frederick Simmons to train young Saban men in the ways of the sea.

Until 1943, transportation on Saba was not easy, steep trails between the sea and the settlements on the hills were negotiated on foot and donkey. Finally, in 1943, Josephus "Lambee" Hassell achieved the road that, Dutch & Swiss engineers claimed "couldn't be built". Hassell simply took a correspondence course in civil engineering and started to build the road with the help of his fellow islanders. Between 1943 & 1958 the road was completed in stages, the final stage being the road to Flat Point the future location of Saba's airport.

The first aircraft landing was in 1959 and an airport was opened in 1963 linking the island to St. Maarten. Finally, the construction of a pier in 1972 allowed not only fishing boats, but also sailboats and dive boats to moor, thus opening up the island to the possibility of tourism. It wasn't until the late 80's that Saba's Tourism industry started to grow.

The Saba Conservation Foundation (SCF) is a non-profit, non-governmental organization (NGO) and was established in 1987, with the main objective of preserving and managing Sabaâs Natural and cultural heritage. As previous generations of Saba people had appreciated the islandâs natural resources, the SCF was not conceived to repair damaged habitats, but rather to ensure the continued quality of an extraordinary environment for the benefit and enjoyment of all.

 

The Twenty First Century

Formally part of the Netherlands Antilles, Saba became part of a Special municipality of the Kingdom of the Netherlands together with the islands of St. Eustatius and Bonaire in 2010.

Today Saba's guests will discover a mixed population of European, African and Latin descendents, speaking English, Dutch and Spanish. Saban houses are well kept, the gardens team with flowers and the doors seldom are locked. The friendliness of Sabans is not in any doubt, and everyone knows everybody on the Unspoiled Queen.

 

Saba /ËseɪbÉ/ is a Caribbean island and the smallest special municipality (officially public body) of the Netherlands.[4] It consists largely of the potentially active volcano Mount Scenery, which at 887 metres (2,910 ft) is the highest point within the Kingdom of the Netherlands.

Saba, including the islet of Green Island, became a special municipality within the country of the Netherlands after the dissolution of the Netherlands Antilles on 10 October 2010.[5]

The island has a land area of 13 square kilometres (5.0 sq mi). As of January 2013, the population was 1,991 inhabitants, with a population density of 150 inhabitants per square kilometre (390 /sq mi).[1] Its current towns and major settlements are The Bottom (the capital), Windwardside, Hell's Gate and St. Johns.

As the island is part of the Netherlands, Dutch is the official language. Despite the island's Dutch affiliation, English is the principal language spoken on the island and has been used in its school system since the 19th century. English can therefore be used in communications of and to the government,[2] although there is a local dialect. Since 1 January 2011, the U.S. dollar has been the official currency,[6] replacing the Netherlands Antillean guilder.

Saba is home to the Saba University School of Medicine, which was established by American expatriates in coordination with the government of the Netherlands. The school adds over 300 residents when classes are in session, and it is the prime educational attraction. A.M. Edwards Medical Center is the major provider of healthcare for local residents.

 

History

The origin of the name "Saba" is often mistakenly believed to be derived from the Arawak Indian word for "rock," which was "siba." However, the true source of the name Saba \s(a)- ba\ is of Greek and Arabic (colloquial Arabic Saba سابا and classical Arabic سبأ ) origin, and its meaning is from Sheba: "morning". Saba refers to the Biblical queen of Sheba.[citation needed] Christopher Columbus is said to have sighted the island on 13 November 1493, but he did not land, being deterred by the island's perilous rocky shores. In 1632, a group of shipwrecked Englishmen landed upon Saba; they stated they found the island uninhabited when they were rescued. However, there has been some evidence found indicating that Carib or Arawak Indians may have been on the island.

 

In 1635, a stray Frenchman claimed Saba for Louis XIII of France. In the latter 1630s, the Dutch Governor of the neighboring island of Sint Eustatius sent several Dutch families over to colonize the island for the Dutch West India Company. These Dutch family names included Heyliger, Leverock, and Vanderpool, to name just three. In 1664, refusing to swear allegiance to the English crown, these original Dutch settlers were evicted to St. Maarten by Thomas Morgan[disambiguation needed], to return within the months and years following. The Netherlands have been in continuous possession of Saba since 1816, after numerous flag changes (British-Dutch-French) during the previous centuries.[citation needed]

 

In the 17th and 18th centuries, its major industries were sugar and rum, and later fishing, particularly lobster fishing. In the 17th century, Saba was believed to be a favorable hideout for Jamaican pirates. England also deported its "undesirable" people to live in the Caribbean colonies. They too became pirates, a few taking haven on Saba. As Saba is a forbidding, steep and natural fortress, Saba became a private sanctuary for the families of smugglers and pirates. The most notable native Saban pirate was Hiram Beakes, who famously quipped, "Dead men tell no tales".[citation needed] Legitimate sailing and trade later became important and many of the island's men took to the seas, during which time Saba lace became an important product made by the island's women. During this period of time, with most of the island's men gone out to sea, the island became known as "The Isle of Women".[citation needed]

The remains of the settlements of 1630â40 can be found on the west side at Tent Bay. They were destroyed by a landslide in the 17th century.

 

Geography and ecology

The vegetation of Saba is mainly composed of woodland forest with ferns and damp soil, and many mango trees. There used to be forests of Mountain Mahogany trees until a hurricane in the 1960s destroyed many of the trees, which are Freziera undulata in the family Theaceae. However, despite the common name, these trees are not related to other Mahogany species. One species of true mahogany tree is found on the island, planted at lower levels, and that is the small-leaved mahogany, Swietenia mahagoni, Meliaceae. The native mahogany trees are considered to be at risk of going extinct on Saba.

Visitors refer to Saba's forests as "the Elfin Forest" because of its high altitude mist, and mossy appearance. There has been a woodland reserve created and aptly named "Elfin Forest Reserve". Saba's lush plant and animal wildlife is diverse and is cared for by the Saba Conservation Foundation.

4.3 kilometres (2.7 mi) southwest of Saba is the edge of the Saba Bank, a very large submerged atoll with especially rich biodiversity. Saba Bank is the top of a sea mount and it is a prime fishing ground, particularly for lobster.

 

People and culture

The population of Saba (the Sabans) consists of only 1,991 people who come from all over the world. The island's small size has led to a fairly small number of island families, who can trace their last names back to around a half-dozen families. This means that many last names are shared around the island, the most numerous being Hassell and Johnson. Most families are a rich intermixing of Dutch, Scottish, and African heritage. The population is also descended from the Irish who were exiled from that country after the accession of King Charles I of England in 1625; Charles exiled these Irish to the Caribbean in an effort to quell rebellion after he had forcibly procured their lands for his Scottish noble supporters.

 

Historically, the island was traded among the many European nations that fought for power in the region. Slaves were also imported to work on Saba. Both English and Dutch are spoken on the island and taught in schools. In more recent years, Saba has become home to a large group of expatriates, and around 250 immigrants who are either students or teachers at the Saba University School of Medicine.

 

Sabans are mostly Roman Catholic by faith; however, there is also a Wesleyan Church Holiness community on the island. Other religions practiced on the island include Jehovah's Witnesses, Anglican, Seventh-day Adventist, Muslim, and Jewish faiths.

 

As Saba is now part of the Netherlands (by becoming a Netherlands public body), the island recognises and performs same-sex marriage. The first marriage performed on the island â as well as the first same-sex marriage in the Caribbean Netherlands â was held on Tuesday, 4 December 2012, in which a male couple, a 26-year old Aruban and a 27-year old Venezuelan, were joined in matrimony.[7]

 

Transport

There is one main road, aptly called "The Road". Its construction was masterminded by Josephus Lambert Hassell who, despite the common opinion of Dutch and Swiss engineers, believed that a road could be built.[8] He took a correspondence course in civil engineering, and started building the road with a crew of locals in 1938.[9] After five years of work, the first section of the road, from Fort Bay to The Bottom, was completed. It was not until 1947, however, that the first motor vehicle arrived. In 1951, the road to Windwardside and St. Johns was opened, and in 1958, the road was completed. Driving "The Road" is considered to be a daunting task, and the curves in Windwardside are extremely difficult to negotiate. Driving is on the right hand side. As well as "The Road", there are also numerous small side roads, the longest one of which goes to Wells Bay in the northwest of the island.

 

In 1963, the island built the Juancho E. Yrausquin Airport. This 400-metre (1,300 ft) landing strip is reputed to be the shortest commercial runway in the world, and as such, is restricted. Only trained pilots flying small STOL airliners, such as the Twin Otter and the Britten-Norman Islander, may land there, as well as helicopters. Consistent air service from Sint Maarten and Sint Eustatius is available through Winair.

 

In 1972, a pier was completed in Fort Bay to access the island. Travel is also provided by ferry services to and from Sint Maarten with the Dawn II and The Edge.

 

Of note are 800 steps carved from stone that reach from Ladder Bay to the settlement known as The Bottom. Until the late 20th century, everything that was brought to the island was carried up by hand using these steps. The steps are now often used by tourists who wish to experience an intense climb.

 

Economy

Saba lace, also known as "Spanish work", is actually drawn thread work, and as of 2013, it is still produced on the island. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Saba lace was a major export. In the 1870s, as a young lady, Mary Gertrude Hassell Johnson, was sent to a Caracas convent in Venezuela for studyâwhere she learned the difficult craft. On her return, lacework spread through the island. The women of Saba began a mail-order business, and would copy addresses of businesses off shipping containers from the United States, and write to the employees. Often, they would get orders for the lacework, and it started a considerable cottage industry. By 1928, the women were exporting around $15,000 (USD) worth of lace products each year.

 

Tourism, ecotourism, conservation

Playground on Saba

The island of Saba is relatively new to the tourism industry, with about 25,000 visitors each year. The island has a number of inns, hotels, rental cottages and restaurants. Saba is known as "The Unspoiled Queen" of the Caribbean.[10] The island is especially known for its ecotourism, having exceptional scuba diving, climbing and hiking. A non-governmental conservation organization, Saba Conservation Foundation, helps protect the nature and culture of the island.

Arriving and departing

 

The Juancho E. Yrausquin Airport offers flights to and from the nearby islands of St. Maarten and Sint Eustatius. There is also a ferry service from St. Maarten; the ferry boats "Dawn II" and "The Edge" both travel to Saba three times a week. In addition, there are anchorages for private boats.[10]

Diving

 

About 150 species of fish have been found in Sabaâs waters.[11] A main draw for divers are the pinnacle dive sites, where magma pushed through the sea floor to create underwater towers of volcanic rock that start at about 300 feet (91 m) down and rise to about 85 feet (26 m) beneath the surface.[11] The waters around Saba were designated as the Saba National Marine Park in 1987, and are subject to government regulation to preserve the coral reefs and other marine life. The Saba Conservation Foundation has operated a hyperbaric chamber in case of diving emergencies, since 1991.[12]

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