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"The beach of black volcanic sand ...". From Malimbu Point looking south to Mangsit, Lombok, Indonesia

Arriving at Ampenan, Lombok, in 1856 - he was to stay about three months - Alfred Russel Wallace (1823-1913) writes that "The beach of black volcanic sand is very steep, and there is at times a heavy surf upon it ... often impossible for boats to land and many serious accidents have occurred". From high up on Malimbu Point you can clearly see the black volcanic sands that extends from here to Ampenan and onwards; higher up is the white coral sand. It's edged by palm plantations and right on the edge of the sandy dunes by Pandanus tectorius. From this high vantage point it's hard to see exactly the steepness of the beach or the power of the waves. But you must believe me that even now with 'only' a strong southeasterly wind, the waters have great force and there's a formidable undertow. Great care is necessary in swimming here.

Climbing down from my perch by way of a steep and sliding path, I happened by a little cave on to a small Hindu shrine with the familiar yellow shrouding. On a flat stone was elegantly carved:

"Dengan nyaris mati / Kita akan merasakan / arti sebuah kehidupan". Roughly: 'As we're about to die, then we will truly feel: that's life' (If I've got that wrong - I mean, of course, the paraphrase not the sentiment - please correct me!).

Scrambling back up again on all fours, I then made my way down to the sandy beach and a cautious dip in the Stunning Blue.

What a place to be... and no-one else.

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Uploaded on August 2, 2009
Taken on August 2, 2009