The Fisherfield Six route (day 1), 27 - 28 May 96 (1 of 17)
Looking south along the Abhainn Loch an Nid from the Corrie Hallie track.
These six Munros (Beinn a' Chlaidheimh, Sgurr Ban, Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair, Beinn Tarsuinn, A' Mhaighdean and Ruadh Stac Mor) can be knocked off in a single - but very long - day from the bothy at Shenavall. Instead, I'd opted for a more leisurely 2-day round, with the intention of bivvying somewhere between Beinn Tarsuinn and A' Mhaighdean. Even so it would still be a fairly demanding challenge, involving a walk of 38 km and a climb of 3000m. Although I'd done several backpacking trips in the Scottish Highlands many years earlier, this would be the first time I'd used a bivvy bag, and so it was all something of an adventure!
I'd left the car off the A832 a short distance beyond the bridge over Dundonnell River, 4 km short of Corrie Hallie - the traditional starting point for the Fisherfield hills. I'd cut across the 2 km of pathless terrain to the west so as to pick up the track at about the 370 m contour, thus saving a climb of about 200 m and a few kms of walking as well. Thankfully this shortcut proved to be fairly easy going - although I wouldn't recommend it after a prolonged spell of wet weather!
(All of the photos in this series were taken with a basic, fixed-focus Olympus Trip film camera.)
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Hillwalking journal entries for the two days:
Monday 27/5/96 - Tuesday 28/5/96
Beinn a’Chlaidheim - Sgurr Ban - Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair - Beinn Tarsuinn - A’ Mhaighdean - Ruadh Stac Mor
38 km, 3000 m: 17.5 hours in total
Day 1: 20 km, 2050 m: 9.7 hours
Conditions: Excellent!: Cloudy initially but conditions improving throughout the day, with virtually continuous sunshine for the last few hours of the route. Mild, still and dry.
Day 2: 18 km, 950 m: 7.8 hours
Conditions: Miserable!: Full cloud cover but with the base generally above the mountain tops. Cold, breezy, with continuous drizzle.
Base: The Heights of Inchvannie, Strathpeffer
Map and starting point: OS Sheet 19, GR 120816
The forecast the previous evening was very encouraging for both Monday and the following morning, and so the prospects looked promising for the “Fisherfield 6”. This was a route that had been long in the planning, and I had spent many hours poring over the map and studying the guidebooks devising a strategy. It was not only the sheer length of the route, but also the remoteness of the hills and the critical river crossings - impassable in spate - that added to the challenge. However, if the Munros were ever going to be a reality, then I had to complete this round.
The Fisherfield 6 was supposed to have been the crux route during my last stay in Strathpeffer the previous year, but I’d had to abandon such an ambitious scheme after contracting laryngitis! Despite being in good health this time around (the excursion up Braeriach the previous day had “fixed” my tedious back condition) I was convinced that circumstances would in some way again conspire to prevent me from taking this route on. So I was giddy with anticipation the previous evening whilst packing my rucksack for my first ever 2 day Munroing expedition - and in wilderness country to boot!
I was therefore more than a little disappointed the following morning to wake up to an overcast sky and to hear that the forecast for the day had been radically revised overnight, with the promised long spells of sunshine replaced with something considerably less favourable. However, I decided to go for it anyway, as there was no guarantee that the weather would be any better later in the week, and I was just not prepared to skip such a critical route for the second consecutive year.
I left the car at a parking spot off the A832 a short distance beyond the bridge over Dundonnell River, 4 km short of Corrie Hallie, which was the traditional starting point for the Fisherfield hills. The intention was to cut across the 2 km of trackless terrain to the west so as to pick up the track from Corrie Hallie to Achneigie at about the 370 m contour: this would save a climb of about 200 m and a few kms of walking as well. In view of the demanding nature of the expedition, I took the unusual precaution of leaving a brief description of the route and my intended day of return in the car window (“Fisherfield 6 - clockwise. Back Tuesday”!).
My rucksack was not too heavy - about 20 lbs according the bathroom scales in caravan - despite bearing the extra weight of the sleeping bag, goretex bivvy bag, stove, food for 2 days, carrymat and sandals for river crossings; however, I set a deliberately slow pace in order to minimise the risk of injury or early fatigue. I crossed the rough ground to the track without too much difficulty: I had half expected a quagmire but the going was quite good. Thence a pleasant stroll towards the Abhainn Loch an Nid at the foot of the ENE ridge of Beinn a’ Chlaidheimh, stopping along the way to take a few snaps with my compact camera (my SLR being both too bulky and too heavy) down the glens to the west and south, both looking impressive.
I was very relieved to see the clouds beginning to lift from the target ridge, as I had not made any allowance for route finding delays at the planning stage, on the grounds that I would only be taking this route on in good weather!
I walked 2 km down the track on the east side of the river till I was more or less due east of the 780 m col to the south of the Beinn a’ Chlaidheimh summit: this seemed to me to be the easiest route of ascent, but was not mentioned in any of the guidebooks. I stone stepped across the river, stopped for a short snack and rest, and then set off on the 600 m climb up the flank of the hill. I felt quite fit and more or less kept going till reaching the col, passing by the side of an impressive rocky gorge towards the top - surprisingly not marked on the map. I disturbed a ptarmigan with a clutch of young chicks en route and kept a respectful distance whilst watching numerous “cheap-cheaping” yellow feathery balls (I had left my glasses behind to save weight!) eventually converge on the distraught “coo-cooing” mother.
The clouds were now above the mountain tops and so I was rewarded with a spectacular view of the surrounding hills - the complex Beinn Dearg Mor dominating the scene. I left my rucksack at the col and made my way up to the summit ridge, keeping to the rockier western aspect so as to enjoy a bit of light scrambling. Easily to the summit cairn, with the magnificent An Teallach now in full view. Thence a pleasant stroll along the narrow - but unexposed - ridge to the second top, which surprisingly was not adorned by a cairn, and then back to the col.
I decided to give my newly acquired catalytic gas stove its first outdoor trial and so started to boil some water for soup. Despite the fact that there was only a light breeze I found it necessary to shield the stove with my Karrimat in order to bring water to the boil on a reasonable timescale. This was disappointing as the sole reason for buying the stove (which was both expensive AND relatively heavy) was the claim that it could be used in a wind!
Thence down to the foot of the NE ridge of Sgurr Ban, passing the first 2 fellow hill walkers of the day en route. After a short climb I decided to cut some way across the north face of the hill in order to avoid the tedious quartzite scree. I was now beginning to tire somewhat and questioned whether the plan to bivvy at the col beyond Beinn Tarsuinn was realistic. Also with the sun now shining virtually continuously I was beginning to worry about the lack of water on the ridge, as even the well established water courses were bone dry. However, I kept going at a steady pace and eventually gained the north ridge of the hill with less than 100 m of climbing to go. After a short rest I made way to large summit cairn and began to enjoy the day again.
Thence down to the next col with the way ahead up the Mullach looking impossibly steep. Thankfully I found a small patch of snow at the foot of the climb and I crammed my water bottle with icy crystals, and enjoyed a refreshingly cool drink. I was now feeling fit again, gaining the summit of the hill without further rest: the planned route was on!
I caught sight of the stalkers path contouring around the NW face of Meall Garbh en route to the next col, and made a point of memorising the adjacent rock features to ensure that I could still find it following descent - so many prominent paths viewed from on high fail to materialise on the ground! An enjoyable traverse on virtually the only section of path so far encountered on the ridge.
Thence a slow ascent to the summit of Beinn Tarsuinn - the fourth and final Munro of the day - over some unexpectedly complex and undulating terrain.
The curving Tarsuinn summit ridge was now in full view, and looking extremely enticing, with the strange rock table referred to by Butterfield being a prominent feature. With the sun now shining continuously and just a gentle breeze blowing, with brilliant views of a distant An Teallach to the north and Slioch to the south, and with all the hard work for the day done, I really savoured this section of the route: definitely the highlight of the expedition. I stuck more or less to the crest of the ridge - exposed in places - and followed it till gaining easier ground on the left and then dropped down towards the col. Without doubt Beinn Tarsuinn would be a very popular hill if it were a tad closer to the road!
I found a level piece of dry ground close to a small burn and sheltered from the breeze, and then set myself up for the night. I was ravenously hungry after the exertions of the day and quickly downed 2 portions of rehydrated “Lancashire Hotpot” (Peak Performance foods) which under the circumstances was palatable. I followed that up with a delicious “Angel Delight” mixed cold, then a few cups of coffee with yoghurt coated muesli bars - excellent.
By now the sun now just setting behind A’ Mhaighdean - a dramatic sight, and the perfect end to a perfect day’s hillwalking. I could hardly believe that it had all gone to plan, especially in view of the less than encouraging forecast - there were so many things that could have gone wrong!
I kept my socks and Ron Hills on, but replaced my T-shirt and top - which were both damp with sweat - with a thermal vest and spare polartec sweatshirt. Then into the sleeping bag and goretex bivvy bag.
From previous experience of nights in the hills (all in a small backpacking tent) I did not even attempt to sleep and instead whiled away the hours listening to a miniature headphone radio which I had bought specifically for this outing - tolerable reception. I had been looking forward to a bit of star gazing as a clear - and hence cold - night had been forecast; but the sky clouded over before darkness fell: a bit disappointing but at least it kept the frost away.
I started to prepare for the off at about 05:00 hours with a breakfast of coffee and muesli bars. It was an overcast and chilly morning but at least it wasn’t raining - yet!
I found it difficult to develop a rhythm initially but eventually got into my stride and managed to reach the summit of A’ Mhaighdean with only one short rest half-way up. By now it was raining continuously but thankfully the mountain tops were generally in the clear, although the views were rather restricted. Nevertheless, it was a rewarding experience to be atop the most remote of the Munros at such an early hour: 07:00!
Easily down to the col towards the intimidating west face of Ruadh Stac Mor. Thankfully I managed to pick out the line of a path slanting up to the left during the descent. This path was not mentioned in any of the guidebooks and consequently I had been anxious about this section of the route, as from the map the summit appeared to be well defended by a continuous line of crags, and scrambling on wet rock in such a remote region would have been risky.
I had a short break from the persistent drizzle and chilling wind in the excellent howff beneath the cairn at the col and then set off up the final Fisherfield Munro, reaching the summit without difficulty or rest. It was still only 08:00 hours and I was on my second peak of the day! Now just the small matter of the long walk out - all 15 km of it!
Easily down the gentle gradient to Lochan a’ Bhraghad, stopping to make a few sand castles on the shore with my plastic mug: a near perfect replica of the 6 Fisherfield Munros with “You are here” helpfully scribbled in the sand! I felt a bit guilty about such an act of desecration in this hallowed spot until I saw that I’d been beaten to it: “Anyone for a swim” !
Thence over trackless terrain to pick up the excellent path down Glean na Muice Beag, and thence along Glean na Muic towards Larachantivore, passing numerous backpackers en route, and several tents pitched just a few yards off the path. There was certainly no sense of Wilderness Country in the Fisherfield glens!
I was by now beginning to feel extremely tired and a wee bit peeved about the relentless rain, which by this stage was seeping through my aged - but recently re-proofed - cagoule. I had seriously underestimated the demands of the second day under the prevailing conditions, and the route was beginning to take its toll, both physically and mentally.
Thankfully the level of the Abhainn Gleann na Muice was surprisingly low in view of the persistent downpour and I managed to skip across without getting my feet too wet. Thence a very tedious slog across a kilometre or so of quagmire towards Shenaval. Although the Abhainn Strath na Sealga was knee-deep in places I was by now too tired to change into sandals, and so just waded through in my boots, getting a thorough soaking in the process.
Thence a never-ending pull up the 300 m climb from the bothy to the east of Sail Liath, stopping every 10 minutes for a rest, and consuming all my remaining rations along the way. Eventually to the Corrie Hallie track and thence a tiresome plod across the rough terrain to the road, arriving back at the car in a state of near collapse.
My first ever 2-day Munroing expedition, and a very memorable experience!
The Fisherfield Six route (day 1), 27 - 28 May 96 (1 of 17)
Looking south along the Abhainn Loch an Nid from the Corrie Hallie track.
These six Munros (Beinn a' Chlaidheimh, Sgurr Ban, Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair, Beinn Tarsuinn, A' Mhaighdean and Ruadh Stac Mor) can be knocked off in a single - but very long - day from the bothy at Shenavall. Instead, I'd opted for a more leisurely 2-day round, with the intention of bivvying somewhere between Beinn Tarsuinn and A' Mhaighdean. Even so it would still be a fairly demanding challenge, involving a walk of 38 km and a climb of 3000m. Although I'd done several backpacking trips in the Scottish Highlands many years earlier, this would be the first time I'd used a bivvy bag, and so it was all something of an adventure!
I'd left the car off the A832 a short distance beyond the bridge over Dundonnell River, 4 km short of Corrie Hallie - the traditional starting point for the Fisherfield hills. I'd cut across the 2 km of pathless terrain to the west so as to pick up the track at about the 370 m contour, thus saving a climb of about 200 m and a few kms of walking as well. Thankfully this shortcut proved to be fairly easy going - although I wouldn't recommend it after a prolonged spell of wet weather!
(All of the photos in this series were taken with a basic, fixed-focus Olympus Trip film camera.)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hillwalking journal entries for the two days:
Monday 27/5/96 - Tuesday 28/5/96
Beinn a’Chlaidheim - Sgurr Ban - Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair - Beinn Tarsuinn - A’ Mhaighdean - Ruadh Stac Mor
38 km, 3000 m: 17.5 hours in total
Day 1: 20 km, 2050 m: 9.7 hours
Conditions: Excellent!: Cloudy initially but conditions improving throughout the day, with virtually continuous sunshine for the last few hours of the route. Mild, still and dry.
Day 2: 18 km, 950 m: 7.8 hours
Conditions: Miserable!: Full cloud cover but with the base generally above the mountain tops. Cold, breezy, with continuous drizzle.
Base: The Heights of Inchvannie, Strathpeffer
Map and starting point: OS Sheet 19, GR 120816
The forecast the previous evening was very encouraging for both Monday and the following morning, and so the prospects looked promising for the “Fisherfield 6”. This was a route that had been long in the planning, and I had spent many hours poring over the map and studying the guidebooks devising a strategy. It was not only the sheer length of the route, but also the remoteness of the hills and the critical river crossings - impassable in spate - that added to the challenge. However, if the Munros were ever going to be a reality, then I had to complete this round.
The Fisherfield 6 was supposed to have been the crux route during my last stay in Strathpeffer the previous year, but I’d had to abandon such an ambitious scheme after contracting laryngitis! Despite being in good health this time around (the excursion up Braeriach the previous day had “fixed” my tedious back condition) I was convinced that circumstances would in some way again conspire to prevent me from taking this route on. So I was giddy with anticipation the previous evening whilst packing my rucksack for my first ever 2 day Munroing expedition - and in wilderness country to boot!
I was therefore more than a little disappointed the following morning to wake up to an overcast sky and to hear that the forecast for the day had been radically revised overnight, with the promised long spells of sunshine replaced with something considerably less favourable. However, I decided to go for it anyway, as there was no guarantee that the weather would be any better later in the week, and I was just not prepared to skip such a critical route for the second consecutive year.
I left the car at a parking spot off the A832 a short distance beyond the bridge over Dundonnell River, 4 km short of Corrie Hallie, which was the traditional starting point for the Fisherfield hills. The intention was to cut across the 2 km of trackless terrain to the west so as to pick up the track from Corrie Hallie to Achneigie at about the 370 m contour: this would save a climb of about 200 m and a few kms of walking as well. In view of the demanding nature of the expedition, I took the unusual precaution of leaving a brief description of the route and my intended day of return in the car window (“Fisherfield 6 - clockwise. Back Tuesday”!).
My rucksack was not too heavy - about 20 lbs according the bathroom scales in caravan - despite bearing the extra weight of the sleeping bag, goretex bivvy bag, stove, food for 2 days, carrymat and sandals for river crossings; however, I set a deliberately slow pace in order to minimise the risk of injury or early fatigue. I crossed the rough ground to the track without too much difficulty: I had half expected a quagmire but the going was quite good. Thence a pleasant stroll towards the Abhainn Loch an Nid at the foot of the ENE ridge of Beinn a’ Chlaidheimh, stopping along the way to take a few snaps with my compact camera (my SLR being both too bulky and too heavy) down the glens to the west and south, both looking impressive.
I was very relieved to see the clouds beginning to lift from the target ridge, as I had not made any allowance for route finding delays at the planning stage, on the grounds that I would only be taking this route on in good weather!
I walked 2 km down the track on the east side of the river till I was more or less due east of the 780 m col to the south of the Beinn a’ Chlaidheimh summit: this seemed to me to be the easiest route of ascent, but was not mentioned in any of the guidebooks. I stone stepped across the river, stopped for a short snack and rest, and then set off on the 600 m climb up the flank of the hill. I felt quite fit and more or less kept going till reaching the col, passing by the side of an impressive rocky gorge towards the top - surprisingly not marked on the map. I disturbed a ptarmigan with a clutch of young chicks en route and kept a respectful distance whilst watching numerous “cheap-cheaping” yellow feathery balls (I had left my glasses behind to save weight!) eventually converge on the distraught “coo-cooing” mother.
The clouds were now above the mountain tops and so I was rewarded with a spectacular view of the surrounding hills - the complex Beinn Dearg Mor dominating the scene. I left my rucksack at the col and made my way up to the summit ridge, keeping to the rockier western aspect so as to enjoy a bit of light scrambling. Easily to the summit cairn, with the magnificent An Teallach now in full view. Thence a pleasant stroll along the narrow - but unexposed - ridge to the second top, which surprisingly was not adorned by a cairn, and then back to the col.
I decided to give my newly acquired catalytic gas stove its first outdoor trial and so started to boil some water for soup. Despite the fact that there was only a light breeze I found it necessary to shield the stove with my Karrimat in order to bring water to the boil on a reasonable timescale. This was disappointing as the sole reason for buying the stove (which was both expensive AND relatively heavy) was the claim that it could be used in a wind!
Thence down to the foot of the NE ridge of Sgurr Ban, passing the first 2 fellow hill walkers of the day en route. After a short climb I decided to cut some way across the north face of the hill in order to avoid the tedious quartzite scree. I was now beginning to tire somewhat and questioned whether the plan to bivvy at the col beyond Beinn Tarsuinn was realistic. Also with the sun now shining virtually continuously I was beginning to worry about the lack of water on the ridge, as even the well established water courses were bone dry. However, I kept going at a steady pace and eventually gained the north ridge of the hill with less than 100 m of climbing to go. After a short rest I made way to large summit cairn and began to enjoy the day again.
Thence down to the next col with the way ahead up the Mullach looking impossibly steep. Thankfully I found a small patch of snow at the foot of the climb and I crammed my water bottle with icy crystals, and enjoyed a refreshingly cool drink. I was now feeling fit again, gaining the summit of the hill without further rest: the planned route was on!
I caught sight of the stalkers path contouring around the NW face of Meall Garbh en route to the next col, and made a point of memorising the adjacent rock features to ensure that I could still find it following descent - so many prominent paths viewed from on high fail to materialise on the ground! An enjoyable traverse on virtually the only section of path so far encountered on the ridge.
Thence a slow ascent to the summit of Beinn Tarsuinn - the fourth and final Munro of the day - over some unexpectedly complex and undulating terrain.
The curving Tarsuinn summit ridge was now in full view, and looking extremely enticing, with the strange rock table referred to by Butterfield being a prominent feature. With the sun now shining continuously and just a gentle breeze blowing, with brilliant views of a distant An Teallach to the north and Slioch to the south, and with all the hard work for the day done, I really savoured this section of the route: definitely the highlight of the expedition. I stuck more or less to the crest of the ridge - exposed in places - and followed it till gaining easier ground on the left and then dropped down towards the col. Without doubt Beinn Tarsuinn would be a very popular hill if it were a tad closer to the road!
I found a level piece of dry ground close to a small burn and sheltered from the breeze, and then set myself up for the night. I was ravenously hungry after the exertions of the day and quickly downed 2 portions of rehydrated “Lancashire Hotpot” (Peak Performance foods) which under the circumstances was palatable. I followed that up with a delicious “Angel Delight” mixed cold, then a few cups of coffee with yoghurt coated muesli bars - excellent.
By now the sun now just setting behind A’ Mhaighdean - a dramatic sight, and the perfect end to a perfect day’s hillwalking. I could hardly believe that it had all gone to plan, especially in view of the less than encouraging forecast - there were so many things that could have gone wrong!
I kept my socks and Ron Hills on, but replaced my T-shirt and top - which were both damp with sweat - with a thermal vest and spare polartec sweatshirt. Then into the sleeping bag and goretex bivvy bag.
From previous experience of nights in the hills (all in a small backpacking tent) I did not even attempt to sleep and instead whiled away the hours listening to a miniature headphone radio which I had bought specifically for this outing - tolerable reception. I had been looking forward to a bit of star gazing as a clear - and hence cold - night had been forecast; but the sky clouded over before darkness fell: a bit disappointing but at least it kept the frost away.
I started to prepare for the off at about 05:00 hours with a breakfast of coffee and muesli bars. It was an overcast and chilly morning but at least it wasn’t raining - yet!
I found it difficult to develop a rhythm initially but eventually got into my stride and managed to reach the summit of A’ Mhaighdean with only one short rest half-way up. By now it was raining continuously but thankfully the mountain tops were generally in the clear, although the views were rather restricted. Nevertheless, it was a rewarding experience to be atop the most remote of the Munros at such an early hour: 07:00!
Easily down to the col towards the intimidating west face of Ruadh Stac Mor. Thankfully I managed to pick out the line of a path slanting up to the left during the descent. This path was not mentioned in any of the guidebooks and consequently I had been anxious about this section of the route, as from the map the summit appeared to be well defended by a continuous line of crags, and scrambling on wet rock in such a remote region would have been risky.
I had a short break from the persistent drizzle and chilling wind in the excellent howff beneath the cairn at the col and then set off up the final Fisherfield Munro, reaching the summit without difficulty or rest. It was still only 08:00 hours and I was on my second peak of the day! Now just the small matter of the long walk out - all 15 km of it!
Easily down the gentle gradient to Lochan a’ Bhraghad, stopping to make a few sand castles on the shore with my plastic mug: a near perfect replica of the 6 Fisherfield Munros with “You are here” helpfully scribbled in the sand! I felt a bit guilty about such an act of desecration in this hallowed spot until I saw that I’d been beaten to it: “Anyone for a swim” !
Thence over trackless terrain to pick up the excellent path down Glean na Muice Beag, and thence along Glean na Muic towards Larachantivore, passing numerous backpackers en route, and several tents pitched just a few yards off the path. There was certainly no sense of Wilderness Country in the Fisherfield glens!
I was by now beginning to feel extremely tired and a wee bit peeved about the relentless rain, which by this stage was seeping through my aged - but recently re-proofed - cagoule. I had seriously underestimated the demands of the second day under the prevailing conditions, and the route was beginning to take its toll, both physically and mentally.
Thankfully the level of the Abhainn Gleann na Muice was surprisingly low in view of the persistent downpour and I managed to skip across without getting my feet too wet. Thence a very tedious slog across a kilometre or so of quagmire towards Shenaval. Although the Abhainn Strath na Sealga was knee-deep in places I was by now too tired to change into sandals, and so just waded through in my boots, getting a thorough soaking in the process.
Thence a never-ending pull up the 300 m climb from the bothy to the east of Sail Liath, stopping every 10 minutes for a rest, and consuming all my remaining rations along the way. Eventually to the Corrie Hallie track and thence a tiresome plod across the rough terrain to the road, arriving back at the car in a state of near collapse.
My first ever 2-day Munroing expedition, and a very memorable experience!