Beinn Eibhinn - Aonach Beag - Geal Charn - Carn Dearg route, 18 July 93 (1 of 12)

The Allt Cam near Lubvan on the long walk in from Glen Spean. The hills in the background are part of the Creag Meagaidh group which I'd be climbing the following day.

 

Today's route would involve a walk of 37 km and a climb of 1350m, making it by far the toughest hillwalking challenge I'd yet undertaken. Thankfully I had the good weather for it - it was just a pity I was feeling so unfit!

 

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Hillwalking journal entry for the day:

 

Sunday 18/7/93

 

Beinn Eibhinn - Aonach Beag - Geal Charn - Carn Dearg

 

37 km, 1350 m: 11.3 hours

 

Conditions: Warm, dry and sunny

 

Base: Tulloch, Spean Bridge

 

Map and starting point: OS Sheet 42, GR 433830

 

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I moved into a chalet at Tulloch, near Spean Bridge, the previous day for my second Munro-bagging holiday of the year. Reasonably comfortable, with all mod cons, but a bit chintzy! A perfect base for the Glen Spean Munros though.

 

The forecast for the Saturday was exceptionally good for the NW highlands, with the prospects for the rest of the week less promising. So I decided to take on one of the longest of the planned routes, despite this being the first day.

 

I parked at the bridge over the River Spean at the SW end of Loch Laggan near Lublea at 08:30 hours, and set off in high spirits along the track to Lubvan, looking forward to a very challenging day in the hills. Unfortunately it soon became apparent that the high level of fitness achieved from my last trip to the Highlands - the previous month - had not been retained, and I felt quite fatigued within the first mile: not very encouraging in view of the length of the proposed route. However, I felt reasonably confident that I would eventually get my second wind and so I just kept going at a slow but steady pace. I was also spurred on by the sight of the peaks at the west end of the target ridge, which appeared deceptively close.

 

I reached the ruined Lubvan after an hour or so and stopped to take a few photos, with the Creag Meagaidh hills as the backdrop: still a beautiful morning.

 

I followed a serviceable path all the way to the foot of the west ridge of Beinn a’ Chlachair - stopping along the way to take numerous photos of the impressive Allt Cam Waterfalls etc. I had to decide at this point whether to continue with the planned route or to do the Chlachair hills - a much shorter day. Despite not feeling particularly fit I decided to keep going, as I realised that I would probably never get a better opportunity of doing the Beinn Eibhinn route, in view of the exceptional weather prospects.

 

I crossed the Allt Cam and started across the trackless terrain towards Beinn Eibhinn, skirting the impressive cliffs of Meall Nathrach. Hard and treacherous going with the rough and hag-ridden terrain covered by a thick carpet of heather. After several nasty and potentially leg-breaking stumbles, I forced myself to slow right down and to watch every single foot placement: I maintained the required level of concentration by repeating the phrase “this is where the hazard is” over and over again.

 

I eventually reached the safer ground to the east of Sron an Fhuarain, and spotted a few red deer on the crest of the ridge, viewed by my recently acquired light-weight binoculars: these added a new dimension to the day.

 

I climbed west onto the north ridge of Beinn Eibhinn and then onwards and upwards towards the un-named top at 440735. At long last, after over 3 hour of struggling, I was beginning to feel fit and now felt confident for the first time since setting out that I would complete the planned route, barring accidents. Excellent views of the local hills - Beinn a’ Chlachair looking particularly impressive, especially the long west ridge.

 

I reached the summit after about 4 hours. Stunning panoramic views of the surrounding and more distant hills, and I regretted not having brought a large scale map to aid identification of the more remote peaks: Could that really be Schiehallion? Yes!

 

After a short stop for the first of 2 planned food breaks, I headed off along the curving ridge towards Aonach Beag. I crossed paths with 2 other hill walkers during the descent to the col - my first human contact of the day! I was feeling fit and kept going till reaching the top, and thence on towards the summit of Geal Charn, passing a large group of back-packers en route. I stopped here for a longish - but unforced - rest in the sunshine.

 

I noted from the map that the start of the descent to the ridge to Diollaid a’ Chairn was exactly on the line between Geal Charn and the Carn Dearg summits: so I just made a bee-line for the summit of the distant final Munro of the day. I was extremely thankful for clear conditions on reaching the crags, as it could have been difficult to find the path, or any other safe way down, in the mist - the slopes to the east still being snow covered.

 

I had a close look at the Long Leachas ridge of Ben Alder during the descent (a possible last day route) which seemed to be quite tricky in places.

 

I was beginning to feel a bit tired by now and made slow progress towards Carn Dearg, with the final climb to the summit ridge quite trying. Over the cairned top at the SW end of the ridge and then along to the actual summit at the far end of the ridge. Thence a long stop for a second lunch break, overlooking Loch Pattack.

 

Back to the bealach, and thence down the flank of the hill towards An Lairig. Quite treacherous terrain, and again I had to resort to the “this is where the hazard is” mantra to ensure a safe descent. I spotted a large herd of red deer half way down; unfortunately they also spotted me and were soon on their way further along up the glen.

 

I eventually reached the An Lairig path near to the ruins of what was presumably a crofter’s cottage - not marked on the map. I had a further short rest whilst pondering what life must have been like for the ex-inhabitants.

 

In order to avoid facing the fact that despite my fatigued condition I still had about 15 km still to go, I tried to convince myself that the end of the route-proper was actually the end of the glen, on the grounds that the rest of the way was on good paths/tracks and was all down hill.

 

Slow progress along the intermittent footpath to Dubh Lochan, and slightly beyond. The next 2 miles were tough going with no path at all, and I consumed most of my emergency rations to get through this demanding stretch. I eventually picked up the path again at the end of the glen, and made reasonable progress back to Lubvan, where I washed the layers of accumulated muck from my legs in the river: a refreshing experience, and thankfully the midges kept away (presumably because the solar flux level was still in excess of the 250 W/m2 threshold!).

 

Then back along the track back to the car on autopilot.

 

One of the longest days in the hills ever, and thoroughly rewarding.

 

Done