Luinne Bheinn - Meall Buidhe - Ladhar Bheinn route (day 1), 11 - 12 July 97 (1 of 21)
Looking back over Skiary from the lochside path to Barrisdale Bay - great to be making a start after a 6 hour drive from Carlisle!
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hillwalking journal entries for the two days:
Friday 11/7/97 - Saturday 12/7/97
Luinne Bheinn - Meall Buidhe - Ladhar Bheinn
44 km, 2850 m: 19.8 hours in total
Day 1: 22 km, 1750 m: 9.2 hours
Conditions: Warm and generally sunny.
Day 2: 22 km, 1100 m: 10.6 hours
Conditions: A gloomy start with conditions improving throughout the day.
Base: Carlisle
Map and starting point: OS Sheet 33, GR 949066
<<>>
The original intention had been to knock off the last 3 Munros the previous month sometime, but it had been the wettest June for decades, and I'd been hanging on for some half-decent weather, hoping to end my round on a high note. But time was running out, with the stalking season approaching and the days already beginning to shorten. So although the forecast was rather dubious - the relevant region of the met. chart being dotted with sunshines, black clouds and lightning forks! - I decided to chance it anyway.
I left Carlisle at 4:55 Friday morning, and arrived at Kinloch Hourn about 11:00 am. The weather had been discouraging during much of the drive north, but the sun had started to make an intermittent appearance at Fort William, and by the time I was heading down the 22 mile single-track road to journey's end - the longest cul-de-sac in Britain - it was shorts and T-shirt conditions!
I felt elated setting out to Barrisdale along the picturesque path by the south shore of Loch Hourn, with the views more than compensating for the 300 m zero-gain climb that this 10 km stretch entails. I was however feeling a wee bit apprehensive about whether I was really fit enough to take the route on: I'd done no serious hillwalking since bagging Beinn Sgritheall6 weeks earlier, and this was without doubt the most demanding route I'd ever tackled in the Scottish hills. Also despite the fact that it was my sixth 2-dayer in little over a year, it was the first time I'd be facing such a tough second day. I'd also been a bit disconcerted about the incredulous reaction my plan had provoked from the farmer when paying my parking fee at Kinloch Hourn - apparently most people spent 2 days on just the one Munro!
Nevertheless, I was still feeling fit and keen for the hills when I eventually reached Barrisdale Bay and was rewarded with my first full view of the magnificent Ladhar Bheinn - and its stunning pair of bookend stobs!
The original intention had been to follow the path to Mam Barrisdale and then to climb Luinn Bheinn over Bachd Mhic an Tosaich; but with the heat of the day beginning to take its toll, a better approach now appeared to be via the Glean Unndalain path, which ran much of its length by the side of a burn, and so about half the climb could be completed without having to carry water. This proved to be a good route and the col at the head of the glen was gained without too much effort. Ben Aden, Sgurr na Ciche, Sgurr Mor - all now in view.
After finding no trace of a half-expected and much-hoped-for path, I set off up the steep termination to Luinne Bheinn's east ridge. The climb proved to be something of a grind, and I'd abandoned any realistic hope of extending the route to Meall Buidhe - as originally planned - well before gaining the more easterly of the two tops. I dumped my rucksack and set off in the late afternoon sunshine on the short but exhilarating stroll along the ridge to summit of the hill.
With the next Munro looking a million miles away across the intervening depths of Choire Odhair, and being dog-tired and almost out of water, I'd no firm plan in mind as I ambled back to collect my gear. One thing was certain though, there was no way I'd be leaving Knoydart alive without having climbed at least 2 of the 3 Munros! So I dropped down to the ridge to Meall Buidhe, with the intention of climbing the hill next day and then walking straight out to Kinloch Hourn, leaving Ladhar Bheinn for a return trip.
However, on gaining the first col I could hear the rush of running water, and managed to find the head of the Allt a' Choire Odhair without losing too much hard-gained height (exactly as per map in fact!). It was a well-sheltered spot and a pleasant setting, and had I brought a book along I might well have stuck camp there and then. But it was only 5:30 pm - what on earth was I going to do for the rest of the evening?
So after a well-earned rest, and an isotonic drink, I half-filled my water bottle and set off at a snail's pace further along the ridge, with the option of dropping down to the corrie at the next col. However, I soon gained my second wind, and managed to keep going to Bealach Ile Coire without stopping. Meall Buidhe was now definitely in the bag - it was just a question of optimising the strategy. The original plan had been to climb the hill and then drop down to Choire Odhair in a north-easterly direction via the gully between the two peaks, as suggested in the SMC guidebook. But this descent looked perilous in places. Surely a better option would be to dump my rucksack at the bealach, climb the remaining 300 m unencumbered, double back, and then drop down to the corrie via a less intimidating route? Yes!
So I followed the trace of a path - steep and ingenious in places - up the rocky ridge to the lesser of the 2 peaks. Then onwards to the summit of the hill, and further along the ridge for a glistening seaward view: 7:30 pm.
Back for the sack, and then safely down towards Choire Odhair's twin lochans, eventually finding the perfect bivvy site on the far side of the allt, with a good view towards Ladhar Bheinn's Aonach Sgoilte ridge. With a big day to follow, I spent a solid hour replenishing the calories with a 5 course meal before laying down for the night.
No chance of any sleep of course, but thankfully there was tolerable radio reception which helped me while away the hours before making a start on breakfast at first light: 04:15 am. According to snippets of the forecast I'd managed to pick up over the airwaves it sounded like I could be in for a poor day weather-wise - which seemed to be confirmed by the red-edged clouds scudding by overhead. But at least it was still dry and all of the surrounding peaks were clear.
Feeling re-energised after my long lie down, and being a mere 3 Naismith-hours from my final Munro, I decided to go for it anyway - I'd start worrying about the long walk out in due course!
I was up and away by 05:00 am heading northwards up a broad grassy rake that eventually took me to the col at the foot of Luinne Bheinn's north-west ridge. Then over Bachd Mhich an Tosaich and down to Mam Barrisdale, from where a rough traverse westwards, followed by an easy climb by the line of the burn, led to the flat-floored hollow of Coire a' Phuill. It was raining by now but the peaks were still clear. Less than 30 minutes later I'd clambered up the steep grassy slopes of the corrie headwall to the Stob a' Chearcaill col, and I was looking towards the disconcertingly distant summit of my final Munro, the magnificent Ladhar Bheinn.
The dominant feeling was one of almost overwhelming anxiety: I felt sure that circumstances would in some way conspire to prevent me from gaining that final tick in the book! But what could possibly go wrong with just 2 km to walk and less than 400 m to climb, on a well-defined ridge, with a path all the way? It had even stopped raining.
With this cheering thought in mind I made my way up Aonach Sgoilte and then ambled down to Bealach Coire Dhorrcail. Slowly and carefully up “An Caisteal” (surely this spectacular feature merits a name?) - an interesting ascent, with a few short scrambly sections, and good views back beyond the Stob a' Chearcaill ridge to the hills of yesterday.
Fatigue was now beginning to set in and I had to stop to catch my breath during the latter stages of the climb, before finally cresting the hill. There was a strong wind cutting across the summit ridge as I made my way to the top of my last Munro. The sun broke through the clouds as I approached the cairn...
Only two thoughts now occupied my mind: the long walk out; and more immediately, the Stob a' Choire Odhair ridge, which had looked intimidating from certain vantage points during the climb. After a quick but cautious out-and-back to the trig point I set off along the knife-edge ridge towards the imposing stob. There was a considerable feeling of exposure, and care was required in places, but technically it was just a walk. Then easily down the Druim, eventually picking up the start of the stalker's path by the Allt Coire Dhorrcail, after a stumbling “shortcutting” descent down the trackless flank of the corrie. In view of my fatigued condition, this path was greatly appreciated - especially the zig-zagging ramp down the bracken-infested lower slopes of Creag Bheithe.
Half an hour or so later, I was taking my first real rest of the day by the ruined church at the start of the loch-side path back to Kinloch Hourn. Picturesque or not, this was going to be a slog and a half! I split the route into 30 minute stints, and within 3 hours I was back at the car: 3:40 pm.
It had been a hard 2 days.
Postscript
I discovered the following week, that on the very day I climbed my last Munro - some 15 years after embarking on my campaign - the SMC had announced to the world that 8 new Munros were to be added to the list!
Luinne Bheinn - Meall Buidhe - Ladhar Bheinn route (day 1), 11 - 12 July 97 (1 of 21)
Looking back over Skiary from the lochside path to Barrisdale Bay - great to be making a start after a 6 hour drive from Carlisle!
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hillwalking journal entries for the two days:
Friday 11/7/97 - Saturday 12/7/97
Luinne Bheinn - Meall Buidhe - Ladhar Bheinn
44 km, 2850 m: 19.8 hours in total
Day 1: 22 km, 1750 m: 9.2 hours
Conditions: Warm and generally sunny.
Day 2: 22 km, 1100 m: 10.6 hours
Conditions: A gloomy start with conditions improving throughout the day.
Base: Carlisle
Map and starting point: OS Sheet 33, GR 949066
<<>>
The original intention had been to knock off the last 3 Munros the previous month sometime, but it had been the wettest June for decades, and I'd been hanging on for some half-decent weather, hoping to end my round on a high note. But time was running out, with the stalking season approaching and the days already beginning to shorten. So although the forecast was rather dubious - the relevant region of the met. chart being dotted with sunshines, black clouds and lightning forks! - I decided to chance it anyway.
I left Carlisle at 4:55 Friday morning, and arrived at Kinloch Hourn about 11:00 am. The weather had been discouraging during much of the drive north, but the sun had started to make an intermittent appearance at Fort William, and by the time I was heading down the 22 mile single-track road to journey's end - the longest cul-de-sac in Britain - it was shorts and T-shirt conditions!
I felt elated setting out to Barrisdale along the picturesque path by the south shore of Loch Hourn, with the views more than compensating for the 300 m zero-gain climb that this 10 km stretch entails. I was however feeling a wee bit apprehensive about whether I was really fit enough to take the route on: I'd done no serious hillwalking since bagging Beinn Sgritheall6 weeks earlier, and this was without doubt the most demanding route I'd ever tackled in the Scottish hills. Also despite the fact that it was my sixth 2-dayer in little over a year, it was the first time I'd be facing such a tough second day. I'd also been a bit disconcerted about the incredulous reaction my plan had provoked from the farmer when paying my parking fee at Kinloch Hourn - apparently most people spent 2 days on just the one Munro!
Nevertheless, I was still feeling fit and keen for the hills when I eventually reached Barrisdale Bay and was rewarded with my first full view of the magnificent Ladhar Bheinn - and its stunning pair of bookend stobs!
The original intention had been to follow the path to Mam Barrisdale and then to climb Luinn Bheinn over Bachd Mhic an Tosaich; but with the heat of the day beginning to take its toll, a better approach now appeared to be via the Glean Unndalain path, which ran much of its length by the side of a burn, and so about half the climb could be completed without having to carry water. This proved to be a good route and the col at the head of the glen was gained without too much effort. Ben Aden, Sgurr na Ciche, Sgurr Mor - all now in view.
After finding no trace of a half-expected and much-hoped-for path, I set off up the steep termination to Luinne Bheinn's east ridge. The climb proved to be something of a grind, and I'd abandoned any realistic hope of extending the route to Meall Buidhe - as originally planned - well before gaining the more easterly of the two tops. I dumped my rucksack and set off in the late afternoon sunshine on the short but exhilarating stroll along the ridge to summit of the hill.
With the next Munro looking a million miles away across the intervening depths of Choire Odhair, and being dog-tired and almost out of water, I'd no firm plan in mind as I ambled back to collect my gear. One thing was certain though, there was no way I'd be leaving Knoydart alive without having climbed at least 2 of the 3 Munros! So I dropped down to the ridge to Meall Buidhe, with the intention of climbing the hill next day and then walking straight out to Kinloch Hourn, leaving Ladhar Bheinn for a return trip.
However, on gaining the first col I could hear the rush of running water, and managed to find the head of the Allt a' Choire Odhair without losing too much hard-gained height (exactly as per map in fact!). It was a well-sheltered spot and a pleasant setting, and had I brought a book along I might well have stuck camp there and then. But it was only 5:30 pm - what on earth was I going to do for the rest of the evening?
So after a well-earned rest, and an isotonic drink, I half-filled my water bottle and set off at a snail's pace further along the ridge, with the option of dropping down to the corrie at the next col. However, I soon gained my second wind, and managed to keep going to Bealach Ile Coire without stopping. Meall Buidhe was now definitely in the bag - it was just a question of optimising the strategy. The original plan had been to climb the hill and then drop down to Choire Odhair in a north-easterly direction via the gully between the two peaks, as suggested in the SMC guidebook. But this descent looked perilous in places. Surely a better option would be to dump my rucksack at the bealach, climb the remaining 300 m unencumbered, double back, and then drop down to the corrie via a less intimidating route? Yes!
So I followed the trace of a path - steep and ingenious in places - up the rocky ridge to the lesser of the 2 peaks. Then onwards to the summit of the hill, and further along the ridge for a glistening seaward view: 7:30 pm.
Back for the sack, and then safely down towards Choire Odhair's twin lochans, eventually finding the perfect bivvy site on the far side of the allt, with a good view towards Ladhar Bheinn's Aonach Sgoilte ridge. With a big day to follow, I spent a solid hour replenishing the calories with a 5 course meal before laying down for the night.
No chance of any sleep of course, but thankfully there was tolerable radio reception which helped me while away the hours before making a start on breakfast at first light: 04:15 am. According to snippets of the forecast I'd managed to pick up over the airwaves it sounded like I could be in for a poor day weather-wise - which seemed to be confirmed by the red-edged clouds scudding by overhead. But at least it was still dry and all of the surrounding peaks were clear.
Feeling re-energised after my long lie down, and being a mere 3 Naismith-hours from my final Munro, I decided to go for it anyway - I'd start worrying about the long walk out in due course!
I was up and away by 05:00 am heading northwards up a broad grassy rake that eventually took me to the col at the foot of Luinne Bheinn's north-west ridge. Then over Bachd Mhich an Tosaich and down to Mam Barrisdale, from where a rough traverse westwards, followed by an easy climb by the line of the burn, led to the flat-floored hollow of Coire a' Phuill. It was raining by now but the peaks were still clear. Less than 30 minutes later I'd clambered up the steep grassy slopes of the corrie headwall to the Stob a' Chearcaill col, and I was looking towards the disconcertingly distant summit of my final Munro, the magnificent Ladhar Bheinn.
The dominant feeling was one of almost overwhelming anxiety: I felt sure that circumstances would in some way conspire to prevent me from gaining that final tick in the book! But what could possibly go wrong with just 2 km to walk and less than 400 m to climb, on a well-defined ridge, with a path all the way? It had even stopped raining.
With this cheering thought in mind I made my way up Aonach Sgoilte and then ambled down to Bealach Coire Dhorrcail. Slowly and carefully up “An Caisteal” (surely this spectacular feature merits a name?) - an interesting ascent, with a few short scrambly sections, and good views back beyond the Stob a' Chearcaill ridge to the hills of yesterday.
Fatigue was now beginning to set in and I had to stop to catch my breath during the latter stages of the climb, before finally cresting the hill. There was a strong wind cutting across the summit ridge as I made my way to the top of my last Munro. The sun broke through the clouds as I approached the cairn...
Only two thoughts now occupied my mind: the long walk out; and more immediately, the Stob a' Choire Odhair ridge, which had looked intimidating from certain vantage points during the climb. After a quick but cautious out-and-back to the trig point I set off along the knife-edge ridge towards the imposing stob. There was a considerable feeling of exposure, and care was required in places, but technically it was just a walk. Then easily down the Druim, eventually picking up the start of the stalker's path by the Allt Coire Dhorrcail, after a stumbling “shortcutting” descent down the trackless flank of the corrie. In view of my fatigued condition, this path was greatly appreciated - especially the zig-zagging ramp down the bracken-infested lower slopes of Creag Bheithe.
Half an hour or so later, I was taking my first real rest of the day by the ruined church at the start of the loch-side path back to Kinloch Hourn. Picturesque or not, this was going to be a slog and a half! I split the route into 30 minute stints, and within 3 hours I was back at the car: 3:40 pm.
It had been a hard 2 days.
Postscript
I discovered the following week, that on the very day I climbed my last Munro - some 15 years after embarking on my campaign - the SMC had announced to the world that 8 new Munros were to be added to the list!