judyofthewoods
surface binding
Punch holes on the centre crease of some thin card, then fold sides slightly away from the holes, and create a triangular ridge. This card can then be glued to a firm card with the ridge sticking up. Mock-up done with old envelope. For surface mounting (e.g. a bulletin board), only a strip of card next to the second crease is necessary, just enough to glue it to the base. This mockup is also used to demonstrate a cover, which is why it is much wider.
Strictly speaking, for surface mounting, it is not even necessary to use binding disks, as the surface gives rigidity, and one could just attach loops of wire or even narrow strips of plastic (e.g. strips cut from milk bottles), which could be stapled on or threaded through a couple of holes for each loop and attached at the back. The centre of the disc is only necessary to give the binding firmness in a book format. If one used individual rings on the spine, they would just flop and allow the paper to 'float' around.
surface binding
Punch holes on the centre crease of some thin card, then fold sides slightly away from the holes, and create a triangular ridge. This card can then be glued to a firm card with the ridge sticking up. Mock-up done with old envelope. For surface mounting (e.g. a bulletin board), only a strip of card next to the second crease is necessary, just enough to glue it to the base. This mockup is also used to demonstrate a cover, which is why it is much wider.
Strictly speaking, for surface mounting, it is not even necessary to use binding disks, as the surface gives rigidity, and one could just attach loops of wire or even narrow strips of plastic (e.g. strips cut from milk bottles), which could be stapled on or threaded through a couple of holes for each loop and attached at the back. The centre of the disc is only necessary to give the binding firmness in a book format. If one used individual rings on the spine, they would just flop and allow the paper to 'float' around.