morris_marlin
Second Start
Much better results on the second attempt. I've replaced all the injector O-rings as well as the two on the fuel pressure regulator and that's sorted the leak out. Visually the old ones looked the same with no flat spots but when you cut them off they had no elasticity left.
I ran it for about 25 minutes and brought the engine up to temp. The thermostat opened at ~98 degrees but the fan never cut in at the lower temp. I suspect this is because the top of the rad is not full so the sensor wasn't fully immersed. I'll top it up and try again. I did notice the engine bogged for half a second when manually switching the fan on, not sure what that's all about. Main thing was that none of the coolant hoses were leaking.
My rev counter is still not working but all other gauges seemed ok, oil warning lamp went out straight away as did the charge lamp.
I'll have to fire a question off to the place I bought my gauges from to see if they have any ideas. The pulse signal from the ECU is around 36 Hz when settled into the low idle which is much higher that the 10Hz I'd expect to get from the crank sensor when idling around 600rpm. There is power at the gauge but the only time the needle moves is a wild fluctuation when cranking at start up. Even with the high pulse reading I'd still expect the revs to read off at ~2100rpm rather than no activity at all.
Second Start
Much better results on the second attempt. I've replaced all the injector O-rings as well as the two on the fuel pressure regulator and that's sorted the leak out. Visually the old ones looked the same with no flat spots but when you cut them off they had no elasticity left.
I ran it for about 25 minutes and brought the engine up to temp. The thermostat opened at ~98 degrees but the fan never cut in at the lower temp. I suspect this is because the top of the rad is not full so the sensor wasn't fully immersed. I'll top it up and try again. I did notice the engine bogged for half a second when manually switching the fan on, not sure what that's all about. Main thing was that none of the coolant hoses were leaking.
My rev counter is still not working but all other gauges seemed ok, oil warning lamp went out straight away as did the charge lamp.
I'll have to fire a question off to the place I bought my gauges from to see if they have any ideas. The pulse signal from the ECU is around 36 Hz when settled into the low idle which is much higher that the 10Hz I'd expect to get from the crank sensor when idling around 600rpm. There is power at the gauge but the only time the needle moves is a wild fluctuation when cranking at start up. Even with the high pulse reading I'd still expect the revs to read off at ~2100rpm rather than no activity at all.