Ed Walker

Ed Walker

 

 

 

 

 

LEJOG Blog

 

 

 

 

Tuesday, 7 May 2013

 

Mission Accomplished!

 

 

 

 

I cycled in to John O’Groats just before 09:00 on Monday 22nd April 2013. I had just completed a twenty-two day, one-thousand mile journey from Land’s End and climbed the three highest mountains in the British Isles. I was overcome with so many feelings at the same time: elated at having completed the challenge for Cancer Research UK, glad that I was finally able to rest my weary legs, but strangely disappointed that it was all over -- it had all gone by in a flash. I was also completely underwhelmed with John O’Groats; there was no brass band waiting to greet me, in fact there was no-one there at all. I took a few photographs, had a cup of coffee, and got my ‘end-to-enders’ sheet stamped to prove I had reached the end of the road. By 09:15 me and my bike were on the bus heading for Thurso to catch the train back home to Saltcoats, Ayrshire.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I had spent the night before my departure at my son John's house in St. Anne's, Cornwall. The following morning, Monday 1st of April, my good friend and fellow Rockschool examiner Jerry Forbes gave me and my bike a lift to Land’s End for the start of the journey. LEJOG had begun. The next three days were spent battling against strong easterly winds and I soon realised that I had too much weight in my panniers and that the journey was likely to be much harder that I had anticipated. Indeed, the first three days were probably the most exhausting period of the entire trip. I made very slow progress, the wind was relentless, my legs ached, and I was almost tempted to abandon the project. But, slowly, the going became easier and soon my confidence and momentum improved as I passed from county to county making my way through the South West of England.

 

 

 

 

Crossing the Severn Bridge into Wales seamed like a major milestone on the journey and, as a bonus, the winds became more favourable. I started making better progress and began to enjoy myself much more. On day six I passed through the Brecon Beacons and had my first really fantastic day as I discovered the beautiful scenery and the many picture-postcard villages to stop in for a cup of tea. Two days later I arrived in Snowdonia only to be informed that Mount Snowdon's summit was inaccessible due to it being “still in winter conditions, see”. However, I decided that having made the effort to get there I would at least attempt to climb part of the way up. There are several paths to the summit of Snowdon and I decided to take the Watkin Path - one of the gentler routes but also one of the longest. I followed the path for as far as I could but the summit proved unreachable. That night I stayed at a youth hostel where I met two guys who were going to make an attempt from a different route the following morning so I asked to join them. The weather turned out to be perfect when I woke the next day and a successful ascent looked promising. We set off early and about three quarters of the way up one of the guys got a bad leg cramp and had to give up so his friend and I carried on towards the summit. After a while the weather abruptly took a turn for the worse; visibility dropped to a few yards and the wind became very ferocious. We soon found ourselves in an almost total white-out. We became aware of a very huge and very scary drop on our left and decided that this was as far as we could go. It wasn't until we were back at the youth hostel and relating our story to the hostel warden that we were informed we had actually reached the summit without having realised it. I had in fact made it to the top of Snowdon but missed out on the amazing panorama normally visible on a clear day.

 

 

 

 

Another day and a half on the bike and I was back in England and, as a bonus, with a warm place to stay that night. Another good friend and also a Rockschool examiner (senior examiner, actually) Martin Pleasse, pampered me with hot food, a luxurious bath, and laundry service. I was rejuvenated. Thanks again, Martin.

 

 

 

 

Day eleven and I was off again. I had to take a twenty-five mile detour over Runcorn Bridge to avoid taking the Ferry across the Mersey as I didn't want to use any public transport. My daily mileage started getting better from this point and I made very rapid progress up to the Lake District.

 

 

 

 

On Saturday 13th April, very early on a beautiful morning, I set out to climb Scafell Pike, England's highest mountain. No one suggested that it 'was still in winter conditions, mate'. Things went very well for most of the way but the weather became very changeable from around lunch time. I had climbed to above the tree line where the mountain was mostly under snow, and what wasn't snow was extremely boggy. One wrong step and I could easily find myself up to my waist in a peaty soup, or worse, sliding off the mountain altogether. Progress without the proper climbing gear was torturous and I finally had to abandon my attempt to reach the summit. This was a huge disappointment for me but it would have been foolish to press on any further. I left Grasmere and continued my journey the same day and got soaked through by the torrential rain. If being drenched wasn’t bad enough, I also had to endure what the locals call ‘The Struggle’ -- the biggest hill I have ever encountered. I had to dismount and push the bike with all my gear for mile after mile of endless, twisting, steep, steep, hill. Did I mention how steep this hill was? I was more than happy when I came across another youth hostel and spent the night there.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next day, day fourteen, I crossed the border into Scotland and a huge part of the journey was now behind me. Progress through Scotland seemed to go very quickly and I reached Glasgow two days later on the 16th where I had an afternoon off for my my birthday. To celebrate, I had lunch at Dino's, went fantasy shopping in Guitar Guitar, and later had a few beers. Yes... I know how to party. Next day I was back on the road and heading for Dumbarton, Loch Lomond, across Rannoch Moor, through Glencoe, and arrived in Fort William at the foot of Ben Nevis on day eighteen. This was the wettest and windiest part of the journey, but despite my discomfort, I had the pleasure of being in the most astoundingly beautiful and haunting landscapes to be found anywhere in the world. I felt privileged to see the West Highlands of Scotland in all their wild magnificence and to experience that strange sense of vulnerability one feels when exposed to the full fury of nature in such wild, remote surroundings.

 

 

 

 

Friday 19th was as perfect a day as I could have hoped for to climb the highest mountain in the British Isles, Ben Nevis. Just as had been the case in Wales, the experts told me that the mountain was “still in winter conditions, ken” and could not be attempted without professional mountain gear. But, as also was the case previously, I met a guy at the Glen Nevis Youth Hostel who had attempted the climb the day before but had turned back. He was going to have another go so we set off together following what is known as ‘The Pony Track’. Reaching the summit of ‘The Ben’ (as I am now entitled to call it) was the highlight of the entire journey. It was absolutely spectacular up there -- such an amazing buzz. I recommend that everyone experience standing on the top of this magnificent mountain.

 

 

 

 

Day twenty and I was off again and soon found my self passing Loch Lochy and Loch Ness to Beauly where I camped for the night. On Sunday 21st I cycled just short of 100 miles and, totally exhausted, camped behind the Old Smiddy Inn at Thrumster, just 25 miles from my final destination.

 

 

 

 

So near, yet so far.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next morning, Mon 22nd April, I cycled the short distance to John O'Groats and completed my challenge. Job done -- mission accomplished.

 

 

 

 

What a feeling!

 

 

 

*********************************************************************************************************

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Diary

 

 

 

 

Day 1: 01/04/2013.

Land's End to Indian Queens.

Very strong wind in my face all day. Too much weight on the bike.

I'm off the bike pushing at most hills.

Wild camp Indian Queens.

44.68 miles.

 

 

 

 

Day 2

Indian Queens to A39. Nr. Hartland Point.

Still a strong and cold Easterly wind.

Jerry and Abi surprise me by locating me on the map. Find me!!! and take me out to dinner.

Great evening.

Wild camp.

54.34 miles.

 

 

 

 

Day 3

Nr. Hartland Point to Simonsbath, Exmoor.

Easterly wind. Hard day.

Wild camp

42.72 miles.

 

 

 

 

Day 4

Simonsbath to Churchill. Nr. Bristol Airport.

Campsite.

59.70 miles

 

 

 

 

Day 5

Churchill to Raglan. Made it into Wales.

Met Moss. He gives me a bed for the night at his place.

Thanks Moss.

61.00 miles

 

 

 

 

Day 6

Raglan to Rhayader.

Rhayader Campsite

Brecon Beacons and Black Mountains.

55.00 miles

 

 

 

 

Day 7

Rhayader to Dolgellau

Campsite.

51.24 miles

 

 

 

 

Day 8

Dolgellau to Bryn Gwyant.

Walked the Watkins path up Snowdon.

Youth Hostel

33.00 miles

Day 9

Climbed Snowdon then cycled to Plas-yn-Yale A5104.

Camped on village football field.

39.00 miles.

 

 

 

 

Day 10

Plas-yn-Yale to Queensferry

Stayed at Martin's

21.00 miles.

 

 

 

 

Day 11

Queens Ferry via Runcorn bridge to Cabus. Nr Lancaster.

Campsite.

72.00 miles.

 

 

 

 

Day 12

Cabus to Grassmere. The Lake District.

Youth Hostel.

49.00. miles

 

 

 

 

Day 13

Attempted Scafell Pike but failed to reach the summit...

Cycled on to Patterdale

The Struggle...

Youth Hostel.

12.00 miles.

 

 

 

 

Day 14

Patterdale. Lake District to Kirkpatrick Flemming.

Crossed the border into Scotland.

Robert The Bruce's Cave, campsite.

44.00 miles.

 

 

 

 

Day 15

Kirkpatrick Flemming to Hamilton.

76.00 miles.

 

 

 

 

Day 16

Cycled in to Glasgow and had an afternoon off for my birthday.

17.00 miles.

 

 

 

 

Day 17

Glasgow to Ardlui.

Heavy Rain all day.

51.00 miles.

 

 

 

 

Day 18

Ardlui to Glen Nevis.

Glen Nevis Youth Hostel.

Heavy rain and high winds through Glencoe.

52.00 miles.

 

 

 

 

Day 19

Climbed Ben Nevis.

Highlight of the trip.

Glen Nevis Youth Hostel.

 

 

 

 

Day 20

Glen Nevis to Beauly.

Beaully Bridge Campsite.

52.00 miles

 

 

 

 

Day 21

Beauly to Thrumster.

Camped behind The Old Smiddy Inn.

Cheers David.

98.00. miles.

 

 

 

 

Day 22

Thrumster to John O'Groats.

Job done. 23 miles.

 

 

 

 

Gear List:

 

 

 

 

My bike is a Specialized Sirrus Elite. Makes a superb touring bike. Love this bike.

Ventura 11 aluminium Pannier carrier. (OK, but not brilliant. Could be a little more solid).

M-Wave Amsterdam double rear pannier. (Not recommended. Too bulky and causes too much drag).

North Gear Camping mono 2 Man tent. (My best bargain at at £19.99. Did the job).

Gellert X-Treme lite 1200 sleeping bag. (Good, even below zero).

Vango lightweight full-length inflatable sleeping mat.

3 sets cycling clothes plus spare gloves and socks, tools, spare inner tube, oil, maps, books food and water and loads of other stuff I didn't need.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Extra Special Thanks to:

 

 

 

 

My Son John, for getting me fired up to do this in the first place. (Wish you could have been there)

Ian McGrath, for helping me in just about every aspect of this endeavour.

Tara, Marina, Jerry, Martin.

All my family and friends for the love, support, and encouragement.

Colin and Mo, Upshot, and everyone who came along to Live Music to Kill Cancer -- too many to mention.

All of you who supported me on Facebook.

Everyone I met along the way -- couldn't have done it without you.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What am I going to do now?

 

 

 

 

Ed Walker. 28/04/2013.

Done