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Torres del Paine - Day 1

We´re met off the boat by our tour leader and acquire

another two park guides, Eduardo and Serkan, for our

5-day trek in Torres del Paine. I´m secretly dreading

the long hikes, described in my guidebook as

'challenging'.

 

A few of my friends that have been have said that

Torres del Paine National Park is stunning and even

with this in mind, I´m completely unprepared for its

spectacular beauty. It´s exactly as I imagined it,

vast windswept plains, snowcapped mountains, looming

clouds and turquoise lakes. My ideal landscape.

Sublime.

 

As we´re arriving late into the park we´re missing one

leg of the 'W' circuit (which I´m told is the dull

bit)

so instead we´re dropped off at Laguna Verde for a

12km walk to Rio Paine, an amazing turquoise expanse

of water fed by glacial waters.

 

For 4 1/2 hours I walk through undulating terrain

through open plains, forests, past lakes and meadows

of spring flowers. By the end of the 5 days I am well

acquainted with the Calafate bush (yellow flowers),

the fire-bush (Notro or Ciruelillo) and the Chowra

(sp?) berries. The weather changes from rain to bright

spells and I remove my onion layers only to have to

put them all on again within minutes. The wind is

brutal. On several occasions I nearly get blown off

the mountain. One minute you´re pushing hard to walk

against the wind and as it dies suddenly you topple

over.

 

I am lagging behind as I have been taking far too many

photos and make my way down the mountain on my own

after a stop at the 'Laguna Los Ciervos' viewpoint

which overlooks the stunning Rio Paine. The colours

fill my senses - yellow (buttercups and dandelions),

red (fire-bush), turquoise (lakes) - and I remember

feeling happier than I have for ages.

 

Burnt trees fill the landscape. A serious fire started

by a tourist two years ago affected 15-20% of the

park. Although the park is recovering slowly it has

left a legacy of dead trees that stand out like shafts

of bone.

 

Back at the Pehoe campsite they have laid on a spread

of cheeses, hams, chocolates and wine for us, before

dinner! This is definitely camping in style and I´m

not complaining.

 

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Uploaded on November 27, 2006
Taken on January 1, 2004