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Buenos Aires - Day 4

Thursday 26th October

 

Every Thursday at 3.30pm the ´mothers of the

disappeared´ walk around the Plaza de Mayo. I´d read

about this at school and then in my guide book so when

I actually saw it, it felt almost unreal.

 

In the ´dirty war´of the 1970s 9000 people disappeared

(the official number but human rights organisations it

closer to 20,000). Mothers and relatives have since

campaigned for information on their loved ones and for

the accountability of those involved.

 

It´s a very moving experience. About 20-25 frail old

ladies arrive just before 3.30, greet and hug each

other. They´re all wearing white head scarves with

blue embroidered ´mothers of the disappeared´. They

set up stands selling postcards, books and trinkets to

highlight their cause. Ten minutes later they have

linked arms and are walking around the square holding

a banner. Some seem happy to chat and re-tell their

experiences to visitors but I feel uneasy about

starting a conversation about what happened to them

(I´d make a terrible journalist!). One does smile at

me and I feel compelled to give her a hug as if she

were my grandmother.

 

After the march around the obelisk in the square they

walk up to the Casa Rosada and one of these feisty

characters makes a compelling speech to the crowd

about corruption and imbalance of wealth. They then

disband, take off their headscarves and go their

separate ways.

 

Tonight I go and see another tango show at Cafe

Tortoni, a famous grand art nouveau styled cafe. The

music, particularly the pianist and the accordionist

are amazing. The dancing is pretty good too.

 

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Uploaded on November 2, 2006
Taken on October 27, 2006