Thailand / Sri Lanka (!3)

(Continuation of story)

 

Now I found myself in Sri Lanka and I was alone again. I knew a war was waging, but from my experience in Vietnam I knew that it might just be dangerous in certain parts of the country. I turned to my trusted way of dealing with such situations. I asked the locals in the airport.

 

I was told that certain parts of Colombo were safe and that hotel prices were a bargain. The Intercontinental was only $10 US a night. That was more than twice what I was paying at the Miami Hotel in Bangkok, but I thought that I might be worth the splurge because apparently it was in a safe location.

 

I checked in and almost immediately met two chaps from the UK. They had just met each other as well. The three of us became close and I felt safe, as they had been in Sri Lanka on business for a while. They knew how to avoid the fighting.

The guys were very kind to their adopted American. When they had business dinners with local contacts, I was invited along. I was very impressed with these gracious gestures. I also began to admire the friendly Sri Lankans as well.

 

There was great accord between the people I met and myself, until one night when we were standing around the bar. An American man appeared on the scene and we started to chat. The subject of the Vietnam War came up and he started to rudely attack me when he learned that I had been there. My friends from the UK were bewildered. I took time to explain that Americans were still fighting the war within their own minds.

I took one side trip while I was there. I rented a cab and went to Kandy where I saw lovely gardens and the famed Buddhist, Temple of the Tooth. I was amazed by how I felt at home on this small island and I vowed to return.

 

I left soon after my UK friends departed. It was lonely without them. I returned to the Miami Hotel; the ripped sheets and the cold water were a slight shock, but I soon adjusted. The next time I was forced to leave Thailand to get a new visa I returned to Sri Lanka.

 

By this time it was clear that the fighting was going to stay in the north of the island. With some help from Jason, the explorer, I set out to visit the beaches of the island. I went to Hickkaduwa. I went down the coast by bus and returned by train. The locals were quite helpful except when they snatched my train seat from me. I was not deterred by this rudeness as it was accepted as a proper thing to do.

 

I found the beach cottages that Jason had recommended and asked for his contact. They gave me a good price and I stayed for a week or so. I usually found myself speaking to a young woman who was raised in the small village. She wanted to leave and see other parts of the world and I kept reassuring her that she already lived in paradise among the palm trees and tropical flowers. I assured her that I had never seen such beautiful white beaches or such turquoise water.

 

Years later I tried to returned to the island. Twenty years later there was still raging on and a cruise ship I was on, refused to dock in Colombo. The excuse was that it was not safe even though they had put the stop on their itinerary. I got into a heated argument with the Captain but of course he won.

 

Finally, I booked a land trip with a local travel agency and saw most of the island. I returned to Hikkaduwa that was by now a famous resort city.

 

I often thought of the young girl I met when I stayed at the small cottages, but I had forgotten her name. I thought of her when I saw the tsunami hit the beaches where I stayed and when I saw the water destroy the train tracks that had taken me back to Colombo. My hope was that she was safe and happy.

 

The picture is of a woman who was selling beach wraps to tourists on the now busy beaches of Hikkaduwa.

 

Done