Macro mini origami crane bird

Some creative macro photo’s and information how I made the following shot.

 

I wanted to do some other macro photo’s than the usual bugs or plants, so I made my own ‘species’. I also wondered how small I could make my origami crane.

 

What you need for macro photography is a macro lens or extension tubes which you can attach onto your lens. I use a fixed 50mm FX f1.4 – f16.

 

You have to put it in manual focus because the auto focus in your camera can't focus on your subjects.

 

My photography teacher would approve a fixed lens because a photographer has to move himself instead of zooming. Lazy photographers use zoom-lenses.

 

 

You have to consider what your subject is that you want to capture and what has to be sharp or may be unsharp. The smallest extension tube (12mm) gives most depth of field where the biggest extension tube gives the least depth of field.

 

You can also put your focus on a high f number (for my lens it would be f16) to increase the sharpness in your depth of field.

 

One thing, before choosing your extension tube is to check what the surface of your subject it. For instance: is it a flat surface or does it stick outward? With an already flat surface you could go for a larger extension tube where a surface that would stick outward would most likely need a smaller tube.

 

Furthermore what I use are an SB 900 flash and a ringflash. I attach my ringflash to the SB 900 so I can direct the light from on top of the camera to where the lens is.

 

For extension tubes I use the Soligor 12, 20, and 36mm. You can use them individually on your lens or attach 2 tubes in serie to get a larger tube and higher magnification.

 

 

OK, now how I made the following photo’s. The 5 pictures of the origami crane are all shot with a different magnification. I chose to cut the crane out of the picture on 1500 x 2000

 

But ok, you can see the magnifications and how the depth of field changes per extension tube. But also in the end, you can see the fibres of the paper! WOW!

 

 

I’ll show an overview picture how I took the photo. In studio- or product photography you would use a mekano box and glass plate to lift your subject of the table to get rid of direct shades below your subject. www.flickr.com/photos/46082439@N06/4401715111/in/set-7215...

 

Everything we learn in studio we should apply in our daily photography.

 

 

I lifted the square metric cutting mat from the table, placed the crane and the scissors at the edge so I could still manoeuvre the ringflash which is mounted in front of the lens. Used tape to attach the scissors to the cutting mat.

 

Maybe you don’t know it… but tape is a MUST HAVE in a photographers’ bag. Fix broken things on the spot when you are out in the field. Fixing wobbling tripods, fixing light leaks, holding pieces of paper in place, attaching scissors to surfaces… just to name a few.

 

At least I’m a photographer with tape in my bag, but others should be more aware of it and have it too…

 

 

Further EXIF information. Shutterspeed was 125/s, F16 (maximium), I used the Soligor 20mm extension tube. SB-900 flash was EV 0.0

 

 

I hope some tips or equipment information will be useful if you would like to recreate these sort of shots.

 

Hope you enjoyed it!

 

Done