Geoshift
Lego Painting Q&A
I've been getting a lot of questions lately about paints and painting techniques, so I'm putting together a few of the most common questions and tips in a single post.
This is not intended to be a "Painting Guide" (I'll leave that sort of thing to the pros!), but rather just used to answer a few basic questions. Hopefully as others add comments and questions to this thread, it will develop even more.
Q&A:
What paints do you use?
Acrylics only, no enamels. Acrylics are water-soluable, so they mix and wash-up easily. There are a LOT of different paints on the market and no single brand will be favored by everyone. I actually use a variety of brands, depending on what I'm doing, certain color needs, etc.
On the more expensive side:
Citadel, P3, Vallejo
Cheaper brands:
Folkart, Americana, Apple Barrel
Do you thin your paints?
Yes, almost always. The ratio depends on the paint in use (some are thicker than others right out of the jar) and how many coats you want to use. You can thin Acrylics with water. A couple brands also offer acrylic thinner or mixing medium, which is intended to mix even more smoothly. When in doubt, go thin. Nothing will ruin a custom part quicker than thick globs of paint. :)
Do you mix your paints?
Sometimes, but not always. You basically have to finish that part in one sitting, or use a wet palette if you are mixing.
How about primer?
Yes, always.
Citadel Black spray is my favorite for priming (or white if you are working with brighter colors). Some people use brush-on primer, but I use spray whenever possible.
How about sealer?
Yes, always. If you spend this much time working on something, you want it to last. Sealer should be the last thing you do to your custom, painted parts before they are complete. I recommend an acrylic matte finish, but some people use gloss for certain things (it is supposed to protect better). I personally don't want a "shiny" look on finished parts. Another option is to use a gloss coat, allow to dry, then apply a flat coat for "maximum protection without the shine" (sounds like a commercial!), but I usually just stick with flat sealer only.
Any other tips?
Take your time and be patient. A good custom isn't done in 10 minutes. The basic order of operations is primer, paint, wash, detail, more details, highlight, sealer, done!
Have other questions? Feel free to post them here...There are a lot of talented Lego painters here in our community, all of whom have unique insight to offer. Hopefully they will also join the discussion and assist along the way.
Got tips of your own? Post those here as well.
Thanks!
Lego Painting Q&A
I've been getting a lot of questions lately about paints and painting techniques, so I'm putting together a few of the most common questions and tips in a single post.
This is not intended to be a "Painting Guide" (I'll leave that sort of thing to the pros!), but rather just used to answer a few basic questions. Hopefully as others add comments and questions to this thread, it will develop even more.
Q&A:
What paints do you use?
Acrylics only, no enamels. Acrylics are water-soluable, so they mix and wash-up easily. There are a LOT of different paints on the market and no single brand will be favored by everyone. I actually use a variety of brands, depending on what I'm doing, certain color needs, etc.
On the more expensive side:
Citadel, P3, Vallejo
Cheaper brands:
Folkart, Americana, Apple Barrel
Do you thin your paints?
Yes, almost always. The ratio depends on the paint in use (some are thicker than others right out of the jar) and how many coats you want to use. You can thin Acrylics with water. A couple brands also offer acrylic thinner or mixing medium, which is intended to mix even more smoothly. When in doubt, go thin. Nothing will ruin a custom part quicker than thick globs of paint. :)
Do you mix your paints?
Sometimes, but not always. You basically have to finish that part in one sitting, or use a wet palette if you are mixing.
How about primer?
Yes, always.
Citadel Black spray is my favorite for priming (or white if you are working with brighter colors). Some people use brush-on primer, but I use spray whenever possible.
How about sealer?
Yes, always. If you spend this much time working on something, you want it to last. Sealer should be the last thing you do to your custom, painted parts before they are complete. I recommend an acrylic matte finish, but some people use gloss for certain things (it is supposed to protect better). I personally don't want a "shiny" look on finished parts. Another option is to use a gloss coat, allow to dry, then apply a flat coat for "maximum protection without the shine" (sounds like a commercial!), but I usually just stick with flat sealer only.
Any other tips?
Take your time and be patient. A good custom isn't done in 10 minutes. The basic order of operations is primer, paint, wash, detail, more details, highlight, sealer, done!
Have other questions? Feel free to post them here...There are a lot of talented Lego painters here in our community, all of whom have unique insight to offer. Hopefully they will also join the discussion and assist along the way.
Got tips of your own? Post those here as well.
Thanks!