The Royal Horticultural Society’s 1923 Great Spring Show

Cavendish Mews is a smart set of flats in Mayfair where flapper and modern woman, the Honourable Lettice Chetwynd has set up home after coming of age and gaining her allowance. To supplement her already generous allowance, and to break away from dependence upon her family, Lettice has established herself as a society interior designer, so her flat is decorated with a mixture of elegant antique Georgian pieces and modern Art Deco furnishings, using it as a showroom for what she can offer to her well heeled clients.

 

Today however we have headed a short distance south-east across London, away from Cavendish Mews and Mayfair, over the Regency houses and squares of Belgravia to the artistic upper-class suburb of Chelsea, where Lettice and her dear friend and fellow Embassy Club coterie member, Margot Channon, are attending the Royal Horticultural Society’s 1923 Great Spring Show*. Concerned about her beau, Selwyn Spencely’s, true affections for her, and worried about the threat his cousin and 1923 debutante, Pamela Fox-Chavers, poses to her own potential romantic plans with Selwyn, Lettice has concocted a ruse to spy on Pamela whom Selwyn is escorting to various functions throughout the Season as a favour to his mother, Lady Zinnia, whom Lettice suspects of arranging a match between the two cousins. This includes the Great Spring Show. To avoid looking obvious, Lettice has wrangled Margot to accompany her, even though she has her own misgivings about attending the show after being paraded about there by her own mother before the war as a young debutante. We find ourselves in one of the tents of the Great Spring Show where a grand display of floral arrangements are on show on tables around the pink and white striped canvas walls for the admiration of the society matrons and their daughters as they walk about the space in one of the mainstays of London’s 1923 Season. The cloying fragrance of hothouse flowers mixed with the scent of perfumes of all the women present hangs like a fug in the air, and mixed with a small amount of sweat owing to the closeness of the crowd within the tent the combination is so strong that it is almost visible. Beneath hundreds of pairs of court heels and a smattering of brogues, the grass of the lawns is trampled to a flat matted mass of brownish green blades.

 

“I hope you know that I feel positively nauseous being here,“ Margot whispers in Lettice’s ear over the top of the vociferous burbling of the women’s voices around them as they slowly went their way through the close gathering of people.

 

Margot looks nervously about her. The tent is populated with a large crowd of society ladies and a smattering of gentlemen. Just as she had predicted, the pair are surrounded by anxious mothers and daughters perambulating slowly about: the mothers showing off their marriageable daughters, dressed in the latest season fashions. Even as Margot catches passing glimpses of some of them, she knows that not all these young jeune fille à marier** are going to find husbands in the marriage market decimated by the Great War. She spots an ill-at-ease young girl of around seventeen or eighteen being reluctantly paraded around in a chartreuse satin day dress by her apprehensive birdlike mother. The colour doesn’t suit the poor girl and only makes her unhealthy pallor all the more evident, and the boxy square neckline and fashionable low waistline show how hefty she is beneath the frock as she clumps awkwardly across the trampled lawns in scuffed white court heels and bunching white lisle stockings. Margot feels sorry for her, knowing exactly how she feels, having done exactly the same thing just prior to the war with her own aspiring mother, Lady de Virre. Some of the older society matrons give the girl withering and dismissive glances as she stumbles in her mother’s wake, and Margot knows that she is doomed to failure in the marriage bed of the London Season, and will no doubt set sail, still unmarried, for India in the next year or so, where standards are not so high, and marriageable men more plentiful and less picky.

 

“I don’t know how I let you talk me into this, Lettice darling.” Margot hisses quietly, squeezing Lettice’s arm.

 

Lettice, walking alongside her, stops in her tracks and looks her friend squarely in the face. “Because you love me, of course,” she says matter-of-factly. “And you wouldn’t want me to face this barrage of female hostility alone.” She hooks her arm through Margot’s and the pair begin their slow navigation through the clumps of other women, looking about at the sporadic smattering of male faces to see whether they can see Selwyn amongst them. “Anyway,” Lettice continues. “I’m the one who should dread this more than you, Margot darling. You’re a married lady. Yet even with you on my arm, as a single woman in her twenties, I could still be seen as a threat by the mothers of the 1923 debutantes being paraded about here, especially if I am seen in the company of the Duke of Walmford’s son.”

 

Lettice looks past the parvenues wearing too much jewellery and just too bright a shade of frock trying too hard to blend in and not be ill at ease with their new money and the doughy and haughty society matrons as they pass judgement on those who fall within the prison of their gazes from beneath their new spring millinery. Occasionally she spots a male face: a young man in a smart new spring straw boater and a blue or a white blazer, but none is the face she wants to see. They are all fashionably clean shaven like Selwyn, but too young, or without his dark hair colour. She sighs with irritation.

 

“Where is he?” Lettice mutters.

 

Suddenly her view is blocked by a wall of rather muddy sage green georgette decorated with matching sage green beads in panels of somewhat outmoded Art Nouveau style.

 

“Why Miss Chertwynd, what an unexpected pleasure!”

 

Lettice smiles benignly, attempting to hide her dismay. As a staple of the London Season, she had expected to run into ladies she knew at the Great Spring Show, but she never imagined it would be Geraldine Evans, the elder of the two spinster sisters who live in Holland House, a Seventeenth Century manor house in the village of Glynes on her father’s Wiltshire estate.

 

“Henrietta!” the elder of the Miss Evanses calls out in delight, beckoning someone with an ecru lace glove clan finger. “Henrietta, look who I’ve found!”

 

Henrietta, the second of the spinster Miss Evanses suddenly appears through the crowd in an equally old fashioned Edwardian style ankle length gown of the pre-war era, leaning on a matching parasol whose end pierces the well-trodden ground beneath her.

 

“Why Miss Chetwynd!” the younger of the Miss Evanses exclaims with surprise, her face breaking into a happy smile. “Such an unexpected pleasure.”

 

“How do you do, Miss Evans, Miss Evans,” Lettice acknowledges them both with a curt nod. She glances at the two old women, who must be in their seventies at least, both dressed in their faded pre-war Edwardian splendour, their equally old fashioned whale bone S-bend corsets*** forcing their breasts into giant monobosoms down which strands of opera length pearls cascade. Wearing toques with feather aigrettes jutting out of them atop their waved white hair they look like older versions of Queen Mary. “What a pleasant surprise.”

 

“You were amongst the last of the people we expected to run into here, Miss Chetwynd.” the elder Miss Evans remarks. “Don’t you agree Henrietta?”

 

“Indeed Geraldine!” acknowledges her sister with a crackling voice that sounds like crisp autumn leaves underfoot. “Quite the least likely.”

 

“Well,” Lettice chuckles a little awkwardly. “I must confess that I am equally surprised at running into you two here.”

 

“Oh,” the elder of the Miss Evanses remarks with a dismissive sweep of her hand, a waft of Yardley’s Old English Lavender teasing Lettice’s nose as she does. “It’s one of the few pleasures of the Season that we enjoy and allow ourselves these days.”

 

“As two ladies long past their bloom of youth.” the younger Miss Evans twitters as she looks at the younger ladies around them. “Unlike you, Miss Chetwynd, and your...” She looks querying at Margot’s slightly startled face with raised eyebrows.

 

“Oh how very remiss of me!” Lettice apologises. “Miss Evans, Miss Evans, may I introduce Mrs. Richard Channon, daughter-in-law to Marquis and Marchioness of Taunton. Margot darling, may I introduce the Miss Evanses: acquaintances of mine who live in Glynes village in Wiltshire.”

 

“How do you do, Mrs. Channon.” the two old ladies twitter with gravitas, raising their glove clad hands to their mouths in delight.

 

“How do you do, ladies.” Margot replies, not quite able to keep the bemused smile off her painted red lips as she observes Lettice’s awkwardness at being caught conversing with these two old, dowdy and rather faded looking women amidst the smart ladies of London society.

 

“We didn’t know you enjoyed flowers.” the elder Miss Evans observes. “Are you perhaps accompanying Her Ladyship?” She stretches her jowly neck like a tortoise and looks around with unbridled excitement with her trembling head to see if she can spot Lady Sadie anywhere in the immediate vicinity.

 

“No, I’m afraid my mother isn’t here today, Miss Evans.” Lettice apologises. “I imagine she is at home in Wiltshire, which I must confess is where I expected you would be also. However, if you ask my mother, she will be the very first person to tell you that I am the only one of my siblings who shares her love of flowers. I often help her plan the plantings for the parterre at Glynes.”

 

“Well!” the younger of the Miss Evanses gasps. “Being the creative and artistic soul you are, of course you are interested in flowers. How could you not be? You take so after your dear aunt, Miss Eglantine, Miss Chetwynd.”

 

“Oh, is Miss Eglantine here with you today?” the elder Miss Evans queries, stretching her neck again.

 

“No, Miss Evans.” Lettice assures them. “I’m afraid that my aunt prefers some of the smaller, lesser known garden shows at this time of the year. She’s not one for all this show. No, I’m here to admire the flowers with my friend Mrs. Channon.”

 

“We did see pictures of you in the society pages of the newspaper, Miss Chetwynd,” the younger Miss Evans remarks in a total change of subject. “At the wedding of our new Duchess of York****. It was quite a thrill, wasn’t it Geraldine?” she concludes with a shy and rather foolishly girlish smile as she blushes beneath her dusting of pale face powder.

 

“Indeed yes, Henrietta.” agrees her sister. “Having been so long outside of fashionable society, it is always a delight to see a person of our acquaintance in the social pages.”

 

“And were you wearing one of Master Bruton’s outfits, Miss Chetwynd?” the younger sister asks. Without giving Lettice a chance to answer she adds, “And is your frock today also designed by Master Bruton, Miss Chetwynd?” She points her finger rather rudely at Lettice’s chest, as she looks Lettice up and down through the silver rimmed lorgnette she has tied by a navy blue ribbon to her wrist.

 

“Master Bruton?” Margot queries with a quizzical look at Lettice.

 

“Gerald.” Lettice quickly elucidates before acknowledging to the Miss Evanses that her flouncy frock of georgette in the palest of peach is indeed made by him.

 

As the Miss Evanses engage conversation with Margot, Lettice is suddenly struck by the unpleasant feeling that she is being watched, or perhaps more precisely, scrutinised. The crackling voices of the Miss Evanses and Margot’s well elocuted vowels die away as she turns and looks over her left shoulder. A mature woman dressed in a strikingly simple French blue frock with a layered calf length hem overlaid with a magnificent and thick arctic fox fur stole stands perfectly still, staring imperiously at Lettice from beneath the wide brim of a matching Navy blue felt hat. Pale and slender she is glacially beautiful, her dark and intense stillness at odds with the bright pastel blur of the women milling around her. Her thin lips are depressed into a disapproving line and her sharp and high cheekbones add to her steeliness. Her dark sloe blue eyes pierce Lettice to the core with a vehement dislike, as though she were an insect that must be exterminated.

 

“I imagine Master Bruton will soon be designing Miss Chetwnd’s own wedding frock.” the younger of the Miss Evanses announces rather vulgarly with another ungainly girlish twitter.

 

“Are you alright, Lettice darling?” Margot asks, reaching her hand up at touching her friend’s shoulder.

 

“What?” Lettice asks in surprise, spinning back around as Margot interrupts the hold of the mysterious woman’s gaze on her.

 

“I asked if you are feeling alright, Lettice darling.” Margot repeats, a worried look bleeding across her pretty face.

 

“I say, you do look rather pale all of a sudden, my dear Miss Chetwynd.” the older of the Miss Evanses says with concern.

 

“Oh,” Lettice replies, fanning herself with her glove clad hand as she feels the intense gazes of Margot and the two Miss Evanses. “Oh yes.” She looks back over her shoulder, but like a phantom, the mysterious woman in French blue is gone, leaving no trace of her presence. Turning back, she continues rather distractedly, “I think I’m just a little overcome by all the people in here.”

 

“Yes, well, it is rather close in here, Miss Chetwynd.” the younger Miss Evans remarks as she looks about at all the women and a few men milling around them.

 

“If you don’t mind, ladies,” Margot addresses the Miss Evanses. “I think I might take Miss Chetwynd outside the enclosure for a spot of air.”

 

“Oh yes! Do! Do Mrs. Channon.” the two Miss Evanses cluck away in concern.

 

“Well, goodbye Miss Evans, Miss Evans,” Margot says as she carefully starts to guide Lettice away. “It has been a pleasure making your acquaintance.” she lies.

 

As Margot leads Lettice away from the effusive pair of old women she leans into Lettice. “I say, well played Lettice darling.” she mutters conspiratorially. “I don’t know how you do that, but making yourself go pale like that worked a treat to get us away from that pair of wittering old biddies. I feared we’d never escape their vulturous clutches.” She squeezes Lettice’s inner arm as they walk. “Do you always have to pull a fit like that to escape them, darling?”

 

“Only sometimes.” Lettice remarks a little unsteadily, glancing nervously around her to see if she can catch another glimpse of the woman in dark blue as they move through the crush of floral scented women dressed in silk georgette and cotton chintz in pretty pastel colours.

 

The very next moment Lettice runs into the chest of a navy blue blazer which smells familiarly of Taylor’s sandalwood eau de cologne.

 

“Lettice!” Selwyn’s voice exclaims from somewhere above the brim of her straw picture hat.

 

Looking up, Lettice stares into the surprised face of her beau and smiles with relief. “Selwyn!”

 

“Angel, what on earth are you doing here?” Selwyn asks, grasping Lettice by the shoulders, looking around a little nervously as he does. “I didn’t think this was your type of occasion.”

 

“Oh it’s not, Your Grace.” Margot drops a small respectful curtsey. “Lettice has kindly agreed to accompany me in the absence of my husband.” explains Margot at Lettice’s arm. Stretching out her own hand encased in a burgundy leather glove to him like a queen she introduces herself. “How do you do, Your Grace, I’m Mrs. Richard Channon.” She smiles widely at him with her red painted lips.

 

“Yes, I think I recognise your face from the newspapers after your wedding, Mrs. Channon. How do you do.” Selwyn says, taking her proffered hand and kissing it. “And please, no ‘Your Graces’ since you are such a close friend of Miss Chetwynd. Just Mr. Spencely will do.”

 

“Thank you, Your Grac… err I mean, Mr. Spencely.” she corrects herself. “And you must be Pamela Fox-Chavers.” Margot continues, drawing Lettice’s attention to the shy young lady standing silently at Selwyn’s side, her arm linked with his. “How do you do. I’m Mrs. Richard Channon.”

 

Lettice looks across at Pamela who stares back at Lettice with a large pair of kind, pale blue eyes from beneath the stiffened lace brim of her hat. Framed by strawberry blonde waves of soft lustrous hair affixed in a chignon at the back of her neck, Pamela’s skin is like peaches and cream. Lettice takes in her beautifully cut frock of pale pink and blue satin adorned with lace appliqué and tiny bouquets of ornamental pink roses, and immediately identifies it as once of Lucile’s***** ‘Dream Dresses’*****. The young debutante of seventeen smiles at Lettice with the sweet and innocent face of an ingenue.

 

“Good heavens!” Pamela gasps. “How on earth did you know who I am, Mrs. Channon? I’m only just out!”

 

“I saw your photograph in the newspapers,” Margot says in reply. “From Queen Charlotte’s Ball******.”

 

“Pamela,” Selwyn says a little awkwardly. “May I introduce, the Honourable Lettice Chetwynd. Lettice, may I present my cousin, the Honourable Pamela Fox-Chavers.”

 

“Oh, no introduction is necessary, Selwyn!” Pamela says with a shy smile. “I’d know you anywhere, Miss Chetwynd. It’s such a pleasure to finally meet you. Your face is always in the society pages, oh and you too Mrs. Channon.” she adds quickly when she sees the slightly perturbed look on Margot’s perfectly made up face. “Selwyn’s always talking about you, Miss Chetwynd.”

 

“Pammy!” Selwyn chides his young cousin gently, looking down at her with serious eyes as he flushes red with embarrassment.

 

Smiling cheekily, Margot explains, “I was just taking Lettice outside for a breath of fresh air. It’s awfully cloying in here with so many people about.”

 

“Lettice my angel,” Selwyn gasps quietly, gazing into her face with concerned eyes. “Are you alright?”

 

“I’ll be fine, Selwyn.” she assures him with a dismissive wave. “I just need some fresh air is all.”

 

“And maybe a little something to eat.” Margot adds, cocking an eyebrow at Selwyn meaningfully.

 

“Oh they’re serving Devonshire teas in the next tent, Mrs. Channon.” pipes up Pamela. “Shall we all go and have some? Then we can get better acquainted.” She looks with excited eyes to Lettice before turning back to Selwyn. “Can we Selwyn?” she begs like a young child wanting a treat, tugging on her cousin’s arm. “Please!”

 

“What a capital idea, Miss Fox-Chavers.” Margot replies with an indulgent smile of gratitude. “I think some Devonshire tea sounds like a very civilised way for us to all get to know one another better. Don’t you agree, Mr. Spencely?”

 

*May 20 1913 saw the first Royal Horticultural Society flower show at Chelsea. What we know today as the Chelsea Flower Show was originally known as the Great Spring Show. The first shows were three day events held within a single marquee. The King and Queen did not attend in 1913, but the King's Mother, Queen Alexandra, attended with two of her children. The only garden to win a gold medal before the war was also in 1913 and was awarded to a rock garden created by John Wood of Boston Spa. In 1919, the Government demanded that the Royal Horticultural Society pay an entertainment tax for the show – with resources already strained, it threatened the future of the Chelsea Flower Show. Thankfully, this was wavered once the Royal Horticultural Society convinced the Government that the show had educational benefit and in 1920 a special tent was erected to house scientific exhibits. Whilst the original shows were housed within one tent, the provision of tents increased after the Great War ended. A tent for roses appeared and between 1920 and 1934, there was a tent for pictures, scientific exhibits and displays of garden design. Society garden parties began to be held, and soon the Royal Horticultural Society’s Great Spring Show became a fixture of the London social calendar in May, attended by society ladies and their debutante daughters, the occasion used to parade the latter by the former. The Chelsea Flower Show, though not so exclusive today, is still a part of the London Season.

 

**A jeune fille à marier was a marriageable young woman, the French term used in fashionable circles and the upper-classes of Edwardian society before the Second World War.

 

***Created by a specific style of corset popular between the turn of the Twentieth Century and the outbreak of the Great War, the S-bend is characterized by a rounded, forward leaning torso with hips pushed back. This shape earned the silhouette its name; in profile, it looks similar to a tilted letter S.

 

****Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon, as she was known at the beginning of 1923 when this story is set, went on to become Queen of the United Kingdom and the Dominions from 1936 to 1952 as the wife of King George VI. Whilst still Duke of York, Prince Albert initially proposed to Elizabeth in 1921, but she turned him down, being "afraid never, never again to be free to think, speak and act as I feel I really ought to". He proposed again in 1922 after Elizabeth was part of his sister, Mary the Princess Royal’s, wedding party, but she refused him again. On Saturday, January 13th, 1923, Prince Albert went for a walk with Elizabeth at the Bowes-Lyon home at St Paul’s, Walden Bury and proposed for a third and final time. This time she said yes. The wedding took place on April 26, 1923 at Westminster Abbey.

 

*****Lucile – Lucy, Lady Duff Gordon was a leading British fashion designer in the late Nineteenth and early Twentieth Centuries who use the professional name Lucile. She was the originator of the “mannequin parade”, a pre-cursor to the modern fashion parade, and is reported to have been the person to first use the word “chic” which she then popularised. Lucile is also infamous for escaping the Titanic in a lifeboat designed for forty occupants with her husband and secretary and only nine other people aboard, seven being crew members.

 

******Lucile aimed to make an art of beautiful dressing, and her ‘Dream Dresses’ were faerie tale creations of shimmering silks, gossamer laces, and delicate rainbows of ribbons in soft pastel shades. Influenced by her early designs for lingerie and tea gowns, Lucile’s dresses, which she also referred to as “Gowns of Emotion” were given suitably romantic name, like “Happiness”.

 

*******The Queen Charlotte's Ball is an annual British debutante ball. The ball was founded in 1780 by George III as a birthday celebration in honour of his wife, Charlotte of Mecklenburg-Strelitz, for whom the ball is named. Debutantes were presented and made to curtsey to a large birthday cake in honour of Queen Charlotte. The Queen Charlotte's Ball originally served as a fundraiser for the Queen Charlotte's and Chelsea Hospital. The annual ball continued after Queen Charlotte's death in 1818, but was criticised by the British royal family in the 1950s and 1960s and folded in 1976. It was revived in the Twenty First Century by Jennie Hallam-Peel, a former debutante, who shifted its focus from entering high society to teaching business skills, networking, and etiquette, and fundraising for charities.

 

This wonderful display of floral arrangements in a marquee may not be all that you suppose it to be, for in fact it is made up entirely of pieces from my 1:12 size miniatures collection.

 

Fun things to look for in this tableau include:

 

All the floral arrangements that you see here come from various suppliers, including Kathleen Knight’s Dolls House Shop in the United Kingdom, the Doll House Emporium, Beautifully Handmade Miniatures in Kettering and the Falcon Company, all of whom specialise in high quality, realistic 1:12 miniatures, and they are well known for their floral arrangements. There are also several examples of artisan floral arrangements, made by unknown artists.

 

The white and pink striped wall of the marquee is in truth one of my hand tailored business shirts which I spread across a cardboard backing. I think it looks quite effective. Don’t you?

Done