DaveH6
Gluing down the foredeck
Another reason to cut out the portholes before installing the foredeck.
I used thickened epoxy at the sheer line. On the laminated mahogany beam and the mahogany trim on the chain locker bulkhead edge, I used white 5200 and stainless steel screws to attach the foredeck to these attachment points. I figured that squeezing 5200 from a tube would be less messy and any visible adhesive would be white. All things considered such as seven days to cure, short shelf life of an open tube, I now believe the 5200 was probably not cost effective and thickened epoxy would have have been sufficient for all attachment points. I put 5200 on the screw threads to promote their remaining in place and also to lubricate the threads thus making installation easier. Though purists would chastize me for not using silicon bronze screws I figure that water will never come in contact with these screws.
Every 18 inches I installed stainless steel screws through the topsides into the solid blocking on the foredeck sheer line edges. I 'm not sure if all the foredeck screws were necessary but at the time it seemed the right thing to do.
A benefit of foredeck installation was a sturdy platform to change a long burned out overhead light bulb. I have walked on many a boat deck and find that the foredeck torsion box feels solid underfoot.
Gluing down the foredeck
Another reason to cut out the portholes before installing the foredeck.
I used thickened epoxy at the sheer line. On the laminated mahogany beam and the mahogany trim on the chain locker bulkhead edge, I used white 5200 and stainless steel screws to attach the foredeck to these attachment points. I figured that squeezing 5200 from a tube would be less messy and any visible adhesive would be white. All things considered such as seven days to cure, short shelf life of an open tube, I now believe the 5200 was probably not cost effective and thickened epoxy would have have been sufficient for all attachment points. I put 5200 on the screw threads to promote their remaining in place and also to lubricate the threads thus making installation easier. Though purists would chastize me for not using silicon bronze screws I figure that water will never come in contact with these screws.
Every 18 inches I installed stainless steel screws through the topsides into the solid blocking on the foredeck sheer line edges. I 'm not sure if all the foredeck screws were necessary but at the time it seemed the right thing to do.
A benefit of foredeck installation was a sturdy platform to change a long burned out overhead light bulb. I have walked on many a boat deck and find that the foredeck torsion box feels solid underfoot.