DaveH6
Forecabin near ready for deck installation
Sure hate to put the deck over the fore cabin as I believe this area's classic appearance is the signature of the Bluejacket look. I need to paint the bunk tops with a rolled on one part white polyurethane paint. The bulkheads are sprayed with Awlcraft 2000.
The African Mahogany trim and 1/4" shelf veeners have 7 coats of high gloss marine varnish sanded between each coat. Honduran Mahogany has a more appealing grain pattern but twice as expensive. The Cypress ceilings have 4 coats of marine satin varnish also sanded between coats.
The varnished Okoume plywood hatch cover has an attractive color but the wavy grain appearance reflects the rotorary cut manufacturing process.
The ports are 6x9" in dimension repeating the pleasing port light (aka a deadlight, I think) scale that Ed used on his BJ 27. A Utube video demonstrates how to draw a near perfect oval via simple measurements, three nails and a loop of string. About a 15 minute endeavor to scribe the oval onto a scrap of plywood. I then cut out the scribed oval from the plywood using a jig saw and used sandpaper to touch up the pattern edges. This plywood pattern was then clamped on the outside of the topsides and a pencil line traced on the hull.
The pattern was removed from the hull and a jig saw was used to cut out the oval staying about 1/16 inside the pencil line. The plywood pattern was then re-clamped on the hull and using a template router bit, I finished cutting out the oval. A drum sander in my electric drill smoothed out the cut out. All four port holes are symmetrical and I'm happy with their placement.
Per Ed's recommendation, I cut out the rabbit around the interior side of the oval for the 1/4 lexan that will be the port light. Ed said much easier to do the rabbit without the deck in place.
Forecabin near ready for deck installation
Sure hate to put the deck over the fore cabin as I believe this area's classic appearance is the signature of the Bluejacket look. I need to paint the bunk tops with a rolled on one part white polyurethane paint. The bulkheads are sprayed with Awlcraft 2000.
The African Mahogany trim and 1/4" shelf veeners have 7 coats of high gloss marine varnish sanded between each coat. Honduran Mahogany has a more appealing grain pattern but twice as expensive. The Cypress ceilings have 4 coats of marine satin varnish also sanded between coats.
The varnished Okoume plywood hatch cover has an attractive color but the wavy grain appearance reflects the rotorary cut manufacturing process.
The ports are 6x9" in dimension repeating the pleasing port light (aka a deadlight, I think) scale that Ed used on his BJ 27. A Utube video demonstrates how to draw a near perfect oval via simple measurements, three nails and a loop of string. About a 15 minute endeavor to scribe the oval onto a scrap of plywood. I then cut out the scribed oval from the plywood using a jig saw and used sandpaper to touch up the pattern edges. This plywood pattern was then clamped on the outside of the topsides and a pencil line traced on the hull.
The pattern was removed from the hull and a jig saw was used to cut out the oval staying about 1/16 inside the pencil line. The plywood pattern was then re-clamped on the hull and using a template router bit, I finished cutting out the oval. A drum sander in my electric drill smoothed out the cut out. All four port holes are symmetrical and I'm happy with their placement.
Per Ed's recommendation, I cut out the rabbit around the interior side of the oval for the 1/4 lexan that will be the port light. Ed said much easier to do the rabbit without the deck in place.