DaveH6
Topsides sanding
Picture shows a sanded first coat. The red color of the microballoons gives a nice contrast to sanded areas thus identify low areas. Similiar to the bottom panels, it took about 90 minutes to apply the compound on each topside panel. I pulled the squeegee from the chine to the sheer line. It took about 90 minutes to sand this first coat using the 7" disk sander. Some have reported success using a 1/2 sheet sander.
I sat in my chair with casters and easily glided along whether sanding or applying compound to the topsides.
Unlike a previous boat building experience, I had no sensitivity issues with the epoxy dust. Not sure if the primary reason was that the epoxy had cured for nine days before sanding or the use of a respirator. Probably a combination there of.
For further protection from the dust, I went to Sherwin Williams and purchased a xx extra large Tyvek jump suit. Previously, the one size fits all Tyvek suit I purchased from a big box store failed quickly as the very much under tension zipper burst leaving me with a big scoop to catch dust, etc. Out came the duct tape for a mostly unsucessful emergency repair. Speaking of duct tape, have some ready to repair jumpsuit tears when you get careless with the disk sander.
The pictured topside panel now has a second coat of fairing compound applied. The compound was mixed to a low viscosity and applied thinly. No siica was added to the mixture and some minor sagging occured (areas where I applied compound too thickly) which will be knocked down 24 hrs later with a scaper. Silica makes the compound harder to sand thus I am delighted when I don't have to add it to the fairing compound mixture. I also understand that silica dust is not friendly to electric power tool motors.
Air temperature of 82 degrees helped kick the epoxy off thus was a plus in regards to minimizing sagging.
Topsides sanding
Picture shows a sanded first coat. The red color of the microballoons gives a nice contrast to sanded areas thus identify low areas. Similiar to the bottom panels, it took about 90 minutes to apply the compound on each topside panel. I pulled the squeegee from the chine to the sheer line. It took about 90 minutes to sand this first coat using the 7" disk sander. Some have reported success using a 1/2 sheet sander.
I sat in my chair with casters and easily glided along whether sanding or applying compound to the topsides.
Unlike a previous boat building experience, I had no sensitivity issues with the epoxy dust. Not sure if the primary reason was that the epoxy had cured for nine days before sanding or the use of a respirator. Probably a combination there of.
For further protection from the dust, I went to Sherwin Williams and purchased a xx extra large Tyvek jump suit. Previously, the one size fits all Tyvek suit I purchased from a big box store failed quickly as the very much under tension zipper burst leaving me with a big scoop to catch dust, etc. Out came the duct tape for a mostly unsucessful emergency repair. Speaking of duct tape, have some ready to repair jumpsuit tears when you get careless with the disk sander.
The pictured topside panel now has a second coat of fairing compound applied. The compound was mixed to a low viscosity and applied thinly. No siica was added to the mixture and some minor sagging occured (areas where I applied compound too thickly) which will be knocked down 24 hrs later with a scaper. Silica makes the compound harder to sand thus I am delighted when I don't have to add it to the fairing compound mixture. I also understand that silica dust is not friendly to electric power tool motors.
Air temperature of 82 degrees helped kick the epoxy off thus was a plus in regards to minimizing sagging.