DaveH6
Fitting the transom
the 2x4 keeps the topside sheer at the prescribed width. A lower 2 x4 spends the topsides to establish tumblehome. The transom was fitted against the topsides and hull bottom, marked with a pencil from the hull interior, removed and cut to size with a saber saw. After tweaking the transom cut edges with a hand plane, It fit very nicely. Nothing to it.
I used the deck and roof template (depicts the 6" arc over an 8' chord) to cut out a thin piece of plywood. This flexible plywood was held against the installed transom to mark the top edge for cutting. Since the transom is not plumb, I suppose one could argue my approach makes the transom's top edge curvature a wee bit off from the curvature of the pilot house roof. But with a big chunk of the transom's top edge cut out for the outboard who will notice. It makes my brain hurt to ponder ways to compensate for transom rake when marking the top edge's curvature.
Fitting the transom
the 2x4 keeps the topside sheer at the prescribed width. A lower 2 x4 spends the topsides to establish tumblehome. The transom was fitted against the topsides and hull bottom, marked with a pencil from the hull interior, removed and cut to size with a saber saw. After tweaking the transom cut edges with a hand plane, It fit very nicely. Nothing to it.
I used the deck and roof template (depicts the 6" arc over an 8' chord) to cut out a thin piece of plywood. This flexible plywood was held against the installed transom to mark the top edge for cutting. Since the transom is not plumb, I suppose one could argue my approach makes the transom's top edge curvature a wee bit off from the curvature of the pilot house roof. But with a big chunk of the transom's top edge cut out for the outboard who will notice. It makes my brain hurt to ponder ways to compensate for transom rake when marking the top edge's curvature.