DaveH6
Father and son wiring panels
Lots of stress in bottom panel stem area so wire spacing is very close. After the panels were fiberglassed taped together, removing the wires with a propane torch was easier than I expected. No calls to fire department .
The thickness of the topside and bottom panels are 9mm and 12mm respectively thus the wood washer was tightened to the point that the outside surfaces of the panels were flush. The resulting 3mm lip on the inside of the hull was faired with filet material prior to putting on the three layers of biaxial fiberglass tape. Working towards the stern, the top side panels begin overlapping the bottom panels (to facilitate chine flat installation) thus the 3mm lip eventually becomes a non-issue.
* Edit: For the stem area, the designer can provide guidance on wiring the bottom panels to the topside panels to avoid putting a point load on a bottom panel that can crack its edge. I didn't have a wood cracking issue but read of a Bluejacket builder who did. I forgot Tom's recommendation on how to mitigate this risk. One of the advantages of Okoume plywood is its pliable nature thus when I was torturing the plywood into its final shape at the bow, the risk of cracking the plywood was reduced.
*Warning: Near the second hull support from the stem, I had a hump in the port bottom panel (when viewed from the inside) located under the v-berth area that was locked in with installation of the keel filet and or the hull strenghtening strips under the v berth. Mitigating this problem is documented later in this web site. A possible cause was a hull support put a point load on the bottom panel when I was inside the hull working in the v berth area. Recommend paying attention to hull fairness as hull supports are positioned and workers move about inside the hull during the wiring process.
Father and son wiring panels
Lots of stress in bottom panel stem area so wire spacing is very close. After the panels were fiberglassed taped together, removing the wires with a propane torch was easier than I expected. No calls to fire department .
The thickness of the topside and bottom panels are 9mm and 12mm respectively thus the wood washer was tightened to the point that the outside surfaces of the panels were flush. The resulting 3mm lip on the inside of the hull was faired with filet material prior to putting on the three layers of biaxial fiberglass tape. Working towards the stern, the top side panels begin overlapping the bottom panels (to facilitate chine flat installation) thus the 3mm lip eventually becomes a non-issue.
* Edit: For the stem area, the designer can provide guidance on wiring the bottom panels to the topside panels to avoid putting a point load on a bottom panel that can crack its edge. I didn't have a wood cracking issue but read of a Bluejacket builder who did. I forgot Tom's recommendation on how to mitigate this risk. One of the advantages of Okoume plywood is its pliable nature thus when I was torturing the plywood into its final shape at the bow, the risk of cracking the plywood was reduced.
*Warning: Near the second hull support from the stem, I had a hump in the port bottom panel (when viewed from the inside) located under the v-berth area that was locked in with installation of the keel filet and or the hull strenghtening strips under the v berth. Mitigating this problem is documented later in this web site. A possible cause was a hull support put a point load on the bottom panel when I was inside the hull working in the v berth area. Recommend paying attention to hull fairness as hull supports are positioned and workers move about inside the hull during the wiring process.