DaveH6
Kiwigrip - first experience
I'm refinishing the cockpit in my sailboat. Pictured is the lazerete hatch. Prior to applying the Kiwigrip non-skid, I sanded the old non-skid (Awlgrip with granules sprinkled in it) enough to ensure I had a clean surface. Next I applied a two part primer to the hatch gloss areas, wet sanded with 320 grit and then sprayed the gloss areas with three coats of Interlux's two part Perfection paint. When the boat is in use, this hatch and all other seat areas in the cockpit are covered with closed cell cushions so perhaps it's rather nutty to get so concerned with the cosmetics of the cockpit hatches and the rest of the seat surfaces. But at rest in her slip she will look good. More importantly, I'm getting OJT for applying Kiwigrip on my Bluejacket.
Kiwigrip is a one part water based non-skid material with the consistency of mayonnaise. I masked (cheap blue painters tape) off the footprint of the non-skid, scooped out the Kiwigrip and spread it with a notched trowel. With a leveled coat applied, I rolled it with a very heavy textured roller (appears to be made from filaments) sold by Kiwigrip. Pressure on the roller determines the final texture of the non-skid. Reportedly, the original Kiwigrip recipe was modified to extend the curing time. Users had reported that in direct sunlight it was a race to work the material before it stiffened. I applied the material in my basement at 70 degrees and 65% humidity and two hours later the material was still a paste. Overnight it hardened.
I'm very pleased with the ease of application and appearance of this product. Time will time in regards to Kiwigrip's durability. I did have to struggle with working the roller to conceal the lines from the notched trowel. Looking at the upper right hand corner of the panel in the foreground I can see traces of the grooves from the notched trowel. The notched trowel was plastic and the old non-skid quickly started grinding the notches down. Perhaps a metal tile setting trowel is preferred when installing over existing non-skid. Some apply this product with a brush and then roll. I will use a brush for the next application to see how how that works out. The rolling process throws out an occasional mist but I didn't notice any of it getting on the gloss areas.
I was working from a quart can in the color white and used half of it for the pictured hatch and another slightly smaller cockpit hatch. For the cockpit sole I will use gray Kiwigrip. I'm searching for the best color for my Bluejacket non-skid.
The non-skid deck surfaces on my sailboat are covered with Treadmaster which is an epoxied down heavy cork and rubber material. Eight years ago a friend in the marine trades sold me the Treadmaster at cost. Today a 4'X3' sheet of Treadmaster goes for about $120. A gallon can of Kiwigrip sells for about $150 and covers 80 sq feet . I purchased the Kiwigrip from Bacon Marine Supplies in Annapolis.
Kiwigrip - first experience
I'm refinishing the cockpit in my sailboat. Pictured is the lazerete hatch. Prior to applying the Kiwigrip non-skid, I sanded the old non-skid (Awlgrip with granules sprinkled in it) enough to ensure I had a clean surface. Next I applied a two part primer to the hatch gloss areas, wet sanded with 320 grit and then sprayed the gloss areas with three coats of Interlux's two part Perfection paint. When the boat is in use, this hatch and all other seat areas in the cockpit are covered with closed cell cushions so perhaps it's rather nutty to get so concerned with the cosmetics of the cockpit hatches and the rest of the seat surfaces. But at rest in her slip she will look good. More importantly, I'm getting OJT for applying Kiwigrip on my Bluejacket.
Kiwigrip is a one part water based non-skid material with the consistency of mayonnaise. I masked (cheap blue painters tape) off the footprint of the non-skid, scooped out the Kiwigrip and spread it with a notched trowel. With a leveled coat applied, I rolled it with a very heavy textured roller (appears to be made from filaments) sold by Kiwigrip. Pressure on the roller determines the final texture of the non-skid. Reportedly, the original Kiwigrip recipe was modified to extend the curing time. Users had reported that in direct sunlight it was a race to work the material before it stiffened. I applied the material in my basement at 70 degrees and 65% humidity and two hours later the material was still a paste. Overnight it hardened.
I'm very pleased with the ease of application and appearance of this product. Time will time in regards to Kiwigrip's durability. I did have to struggle with working the roller to conceal the lines from the notched trowel. Looking at the upper right hand corner of the panel in the foreground I can see traces of the grooves from the notched trowel. The notched trowel was plastic and the old non-skid quickly started grinding the notches down. Perhaps a metal tile setting trowel is preferred when installing over existing non-skid. Some apply this product with a brush and then roll. I will use a brush for the next application to see how how that works out. The rolling process throws out an occasional mist but I didn't notice any of it getting on the gloss areas.
I was working from a quart can in the color white and used half of it for the pictured hatch and another slightly smaller cockpit hatch. For the cockpit sole I will use gray Kiwigrip. I'm searching for the best color for my Bluejacket non-skid.
The non-skid deck surfaces on my sailboat are covered with Treadmaster which is an epoxied down heavy cork and rubber material. Eight years ago a friend in the marine trades sold me the Treadmaster at cost. Today a 4'X3' sheet of Treadmaster goes for about $120. A gallon can of Kiwigrip sells for about $150 and covers 80 sq feet . I purchased the Kiwigrip from Bacon Marine Supplies in Annapolis.