pete.naylor
AGFA Karat Collection
My little collection of AGFA Karats, comprising one of each of the main 11 models made from 1936 to 1957. Karats are fascinating cameras to collect. However, the early 'Karat Kassett 12' ones are not as easily useable today as the later '36' models which take standard 35 mm film cassettes. The later ones have CRF focussing too, which makes them still good users. Folded up, they are quite compact - but also relatively heavy.
Price differences should also be born in mind. For example, the top-spec'd pre-WW2 Karat with F3.5 Solinar lens and Compur Rapid shutter cost about 10 Pnds here in Australia, and about the same in Britain. However, post- WW2 things were greatly different. Now the Karat 36 models were not sold in the UK because they were just too darnn expensive. Here in Australia they were available, but according to a 1951 catalogue a Karat 36 with F2.8 Xenar cost 73 Pnds and an F2 version with Xenon cost all of 79 Pnds. No point in me trying to translate Oz currency 60 years down the line into whatever your local currency is or was. Better I just quote some other prices from that 1951 catalogue, so you can do your own comparisons! So, a Kodak Retina 11 with F2 Xenon cost 74 Pnds, a Futura with F2 Evar cost 60 Pnds, and a .Leica 111f with F3.5 Elmar was 114 Pnds.
If you acquire one of the early Karats and want to try it out, don't despair that the Karat/Rapid Kassettes are no longer available from AGFA.. The film itself is exactly the same as that used in Kodak-style cartridges. So long as you have a couple of empty 'Kassetten', all it takes is a bit of cunning refilling under the bedclothes of modern 35mm film into one of same. Then you're all set to turn back time with your early Karat. The main thing to remember is that it's a 'pusher' system, with the 35mm film being pushed from a donor kassette into an empty take-up one. So, no rewind - and for your next film you just move the now-empty Kassette to the other side. Probably sounds as clear as mud, but it's not as difficult as it sounds!
All AGFAs have potential problems with the factory's 'Bayer Green Grease' hardening over the years, resulting in either stiff or totally stuck controls, usually focussing. Karat 36s are the most likely culprits, beause of their more complex CRF setup. But, don't despair - things can usually be freed up with something like lighter fluid dripped into the edge of the focussing ring, or maybe CRC Electronic Aerosol Cleaner (NOT CRC Lubricant!) squirted there. Both should have the effect ot temporarily freeing things up, and they both evaporate totally so no nasty stuff is left to taint lens surfaces or shutter irises. As things free up, you should apply more drips/squirts and keep moving the focussing control to allow the stuff to work in.
When you're happy things are now moving freely, don't pat yourself on the back yet and go and raid the fridge for a congratulationary coldie. If you leave the Karat now as it is, by the following day its controls will likely have re-stuck themselves as the effects of the lighter fluid/CRC are short-lived. You now need to apply some form of synthetic lubricant, in small amounts because you don't want it getting onto lens surfaces or those irises. A few drips around that same edge of the focussing control should do it, turning and returning the control to get the lube worked in. Don't be suprised if the following day the control has become slightly stiffer again. Just add a few more drops/squirts of the lube, and keep moving the control ring. I've never needed to do this more than a second time, and trust me - ALL those 11 Karats still work perfectly!
AGFA Karat Collection
My little collection of AGFA Karats, comprising one of each of the main 11 models made from 1936 to 1957. Karats are fascinating cameras to collect. However, the early 'Karat Kassett 12' ones are not as easily useable today as the later '36' models which take standard 35 mm film cassettes. The later ones have CRF focussing too, which makes them still good users. Folded up, they are quite compact - but also relatively heavy.
Price differences should also be born in mind. For example, the top-spec'd pre-WW2 Karat with F3.5 Solinar lens and Compur Rapid shutter cost about 10 Pnds here in Australia, and about the same in Britain. However, post- WW2 things were greatly different. Now the Karat 36 models were not sold in the UK because they were just too darnn expensive. Here in Australia they were available, but according to a 1951 catalogue a Karat 36 with F2.8 Xenar cost 73 Pnds and an F2 version with Xenon cost all of 79 Pnds. No point in me trying to translate Oz currency 60 years down the line into whatever your local currency is or was. Better I just quote some other prices from that 1951 catalogue, so you can do your own comparisons! So, a Kodak Retina 11 with F2 Xenon cost 74 Pnds, a Futura with F2 Evar cost 60 Pnds, and a .Leica 111f with F3.5 Elmar was 114 Pnds.
If you acquire one of the early Karats and want to try it out, don't despair that the Karat/Rapid Kassettes are no longer available from AGFA.. The film itself is exactly the same as that used in Kodak-style cartridges. So long as you have a couple of empty 'Kassetten', all it takes is a bit of cunning refilling under the bedclothes of modern 35mm film into one of same. Then you're all set to turn back time with your early Karat. The main thing to remember is that it's a 'pusher' system, with the 35mm film being pushed from a donor kassette into an empty take-up one. So, no rewind - and for your next film you just move the now-empty Kassette to the other side. Probably sounds as clear as mud, but it's not as difficult as it sounds!
All AGFAs have potential problems with the factory's 'Bayer Green Grease' hardening over the years, resulting in either stiff or totally stuck controls, usually focussing. Karat 36s are the most likely culprits, beause of their more complex CRF setup. But, don't despair - things can usually be freed up with something like lighter fluid dripped into the edge of the focussing ring, or maybe CRC Electronic Aerosol Cleaner (NOT CRC Lubricant!) squirted there. Both should have the effect ot temporarily freeing things up, and they both evaporate totally so no nasty stuff is left to taint lens surfaces or shutter irises. As things free up, you should apply more drips/squirts and keep moving the focussing control to allow the stuff to work in.
When you're happy things are now moving freely, don't pat yourself on the back yet and go and raid the fridge for a congratulationary coldie. If you leave the Karat now as it is, by the following day its controls will likely have re-stuck themselves as the effects of the lighter fluid/CRC are short-lived. You now need to apply some form of synthetic lubricant, in small amounts because you don't want it getting onto lens surfaces or those irises. A few drips around that same edge of the focussing control should do it, turning and returning the control to get the lube worked in. Don't be suprised if the following day the control has become slightly stiffer again. Just add a few more drops/squirts of the lube, and keep moving the control ring. I've never needed to do this more than a second time, and trust me - ALL those 11 Karats still work perfectly!